tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-24688748818021397412024-03-28T08:50:25.437-08:00Matsukaze Workshops
My build logs, documentations, and research.
Updates may be...sporadic.Brann mac Finnchadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04614813862245766203noreply@blogger.comBlogger141125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2468874881802139741.post-4020760445253916732024-02-28T16:29:00.001-09:002024-02-28T16:31:13.021-09:00Peasant Fashion in the Low Countries: Stage 2; Pieter Bruegel the YOUNGER<p> Pieter Bruegel the Younger was born 1564 in Brussels as the oldest son of Brueghel the Elder. Despite being the son of a famous painter and copying his fathers work, he was not directly trained by him, as Brueghel Elder died when Younger was only 4-5 years old.</p><p>The usefulness of his work for this survey varies, like that of most artists; much of his opus is out of period and shows it, others are direct copies of his father's work and was covered when I analyzed Elder's paintings (others of these are survived where Elder's original did not), and, of course, others are allegorical and just too funky for inclusion. Additionally, he produced /many/ copies from his shop, some of which are referred to as different names--several times I managed to dig up a painting I thought was new only to find I had already covered it. Often, they are undated and I have to guesstimate the period they're showing--when I go and finally get to do posts regarding individual garments, I will attempt to chart a timeline of style development. </p><p>I decided this time to include my additional commentary from the Facebook posts I have been making daily; while there isn't much focused interest in those and I don't discuss them much, I figure it could help people searching for examples of random items in these paintings.<br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWtXr1TGjouxXyXQ87VY7bnvs44Y2L58qjCfVm2M1OD3NbG2WkQfrupn-F3jWlWyMmuZ3nqp4r__wdrgTo1N5gCuqf-XXxXOcJDqZn24h12lEPWcvuN8FBFHlDk29aD-sk-7AKFTO8PMgqehazHGrH5P-SPL-4T0l7fFZyTtK0TDyGUjzeYiJC4jjZ4F8/s793/Peasants_being_attacked_by_bandits.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="793" height="303" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWtXr1TGjouxXyXQ87VY7bnvs44Y2L58qjCfVm2M1OD3NbG2WkQfrupn-F3jWlWyMmuZ3nqp4r__wdrgTo1N5gCuqf-XXxXOcJDqZn24h12lEPWcvuN8FBFHlDk29aD-sk-7AKFTO8PMgqehazHGrH5P-SPL-4T0l7fFZyTtK0TDyGUjzeYiJC4jjZ4F8/w400-h303/Peasants_being_attacked_by_bandits.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";"><span></span><span></span></span></p><a name='more'></a><p></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";"><a href="https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Pieter_Brueghel_(II)_-_Peasants_being_attacked_by_bandits.jpg" target="_blank">Peasants being Attacked by Bandits</a>. 16th century sometime after he was born...<br /></span></li><ul><ul><ul><li><span class="x193iq5w xeuugli x13faqbe x1vvkbs x1xmvt09 x1lliihq x1s928wv xhkezso x1gmr53x x1cpjm7i x1fgarty x1943h6x xudqn12 x3x7a5m x6prxxf xvq8zen xo1l8bm xzsf02u x1yc453h" dir="auto">We really aren't off to a good start, but these aren't in any particular order. <span><a tabindex="-1"></a></span>The
image is super dark, brownwashed, and only has one subject anyways.
However, I particularly like the Green/Black pluderhose of the leftmost
bandit. Two of the bandits also have wheel-lock pistols.</span></li></ul></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">1 The only Peasant Dude</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Brown long coat, which appears lined with a slightly lighter shade of brown. Heavily pleated skirts. The sleeves appear to have a slight drop shoulder, and no gathering or extreme fullness.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Brown full hosen (assumed. You can see hints of the codpiece, but not much more)<br /><br /></span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";"></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgl0VqTb4-B-Fcz9pNCK2GiWbNPLe_v4cOmgUlf-cDJQrJUWb1KAHBaA7tKUbdIki3oBJH68XKuwXUEydMn4BlMMPWUJ42VplyS28EDRloZQ9Hb_VUhRlCa1sNoA5LzTH_gInmPRDS7wzGWoHcTs29woQ4bU7xeSfM78Dhs2jbGdqnwDWvVpVatey2smvs/s800/800px-Pieter_Brueghel_(II)_-_Fair_with_a_theatrical_presentation.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="546" data-original-width="800" height="272" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgl0VqTb4-B-Fcz9pNCK2GiWbNPLe_v4cOmgUlf-cDJQrJUWb1KAHBaA7tKUbdIki3oBJH68XKuwXUEydMn4BlMMPWUJ42VplyS28EDRloZQ9Hb_VUhRlCa1sNoA5LzTH_gInmPRDS7wzGWoHcTs29woQ4bU7xeSfM78Dhs2jbGdqnwDWvVpVatey2smvs/w400-h272/800px-Pieter_Brueghel_(II)_-_Fair_with_a_theatrical_presentation.jpg" width="400" /></a></div></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Fair
with a Theatrical Presentation. 17th Century,but a copy of one of his father's paintings, and the clothing appears to be after that. I used two different copies for detail; <a href="https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Pieter_Brueghel_(II)_-_Fair_with_a_theatrical_presentation.jpg" target="_blank">the Wiki for numbering</a> and some, and a higher res version from <a href="https://collection.beta.fitz.ms/id/image/mirador/media-217528" target="_blank">the Fitzwilliam Museum</a> for as much as possible.</span></li><ul><ul><ul><li><span class="x193iq5w xeuugli x13faqbe x1vvkbs x1xmvt09 x1lliihq x1s928wv xhkezso x1gmr53x x1cpjm7i x1fgarty x1943h6x xudqn12 x3x7a5m x6prxxf xvq8zen xo1l8bm xzsf02u x1yc453h" dir="auto"><div class="x11i5rnm xat24cr x1mh8g0r x1vvkbs xtlvy1s x126k92a"><div dir="auto" style="text-align: start;">Extra stuff....there is sooo much to unpack there since there is so much going on.</div><div dir="auto" style="text-align: start;"><span><a tabindex="-1"></a></span>Thespians and stage setup (there is also a fool in the background being mauled by kids), pottery and tons of furniture, a lovely knife on the ground at the bottom, </div><div dir="auto" style="text-align: start;">Various animals including horses, dogs, and pigs, and chickens.</div><div dir="auto" style="text-align: start;">A Cart setup, which appears to have sides made of wicker. Inside the cart there is a spinning distaff, and a niddy-noddy for winding yarn. There are a pair of covered wagons in the back.</div><div dir="auto" style="text-align: start;">Even further in the back you have a pair of guys having a messer fight (whether real or with sticks)</div><div dir="auto" style="text-align: start;">Over by the puking guy, there's a kickball. Over by no.51, a child has a hobby horse.</div></div></span></li></ul></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";"> 1</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black close cap, deeper in the back</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Off white jacket, of rough fit.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Brown or black full hose</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">2</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black cap with narrow brim</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Outer Pale green coat, lined with red. The sleeves are quite close, and the full skirt is cut on and pleated. May be double breasted. </span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">White shirt showing<br /></span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Full hosen in black</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">3</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black hat with narrow brim</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Light green coat, with heavy gathers at shoulder, forearm, and skirts. Knee length</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Full black hosen.</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">4; Kids apparently gambling on a top? Off to the side there is a medium brim black hat, and in the middle a red flat cap.<br /></span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Yellow doublet of hip length. Sleeves are close fit.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Full hose in white</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">5</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Blue/white upper garment. Unknown type</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Matching hosen.</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">6; Horrible Detail<br /></span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Brown Doublet</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">White full hose</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Satchel?</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">7; Gaming...tiddlywinks?<br /></span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Brown close cap</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black doublet</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Buff/light brown full hosen.</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">8</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black hat with narrow brim. Lightly thrummed</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Red coat, fit is loose and there appears to be slight fullness at shoulder. Single point visible at neck</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">White shirt</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black belt</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">9</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black hat with narrow brim, turned up in the back</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Grey doublet, with close fit</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">White shirt</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">10</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Really funky hat, black. Close fitting done, back brim turned up. Front prim cut, much wider, and standing straight up.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black coat, calf length. Skirts top and bottom of sleeves are quite full</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">11; Snogger on Bench</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black hat; the form is quite round and flat on top, with a back portion extending down.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Brown doublett of waist length. Sleeves are very full, pleated at shoulder and elbow, with separate forearm cannon</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black hosen, points hanging loose.</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">12; Chug, chug!</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Blueish doublet of moderate fit. No front opening visible.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">White shirt visible at waist, and especially neck</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Full hosen in white, with red points. Unpointed, of course.</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">13; Musician. Playing a pipe with a single hand, and drum with the other. Interestingly it isn't a Tabor pipe, as you can see holes all long the length, rather than just three near the end.<br /></span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Quite conical black hat. Fit looks terrible</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Dark grey loosely fitted outer garment, with folds running from shoulders. I have not seen it's like before.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Brown hosen.</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">14; Cart Climber</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Red hat with shallow flat top and wide brim, hanging down his back on a cord.<br /></span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Pale blue doublet, moderate fit, and with narrow cut on skirts</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Full hosen in white.</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">15; Poor Detail, Person not in the high rez version</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black cap</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black waistcoat</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Brown doublet</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">White hosen, although for some reason his knees are red.</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">16</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Low black thrum hat.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Green coat,with full pleated skirts. Sleeves do not appear to be gathered.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">White hosen.</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">17</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black hat with narrow brim</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Close fitted white doublet</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">White knee hosen, partially pointed</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">White stockings, rolled down from the knee.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black shoes</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">18</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Green cap with round top and back flap.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Yellowish black coat. Double breasted, with knee length skirts pleated all the way around. Lined with black, I think. Sleeves are very full, and I think gathered at elbow.<br /></span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">There are hints of a green garment underneath at the neckline.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">White hosen.</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">19; Fathir, showing off his crossbow</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Similarly styled red hat, with a deeper back</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Blue long coat, fully pleated calf length skirt, and sleeves gathered at top and elbow.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Dude...where are your pants?</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">20<b>; </b></span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black round topped hat with fairly wide brim. Probably blocked rather than knit.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Dark russet coat, with pleated knee length skirts. The sleeves are moderate, and may be rolled up to show a brown lining; however there amay be something else going on there.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Russet (matching) hosen.</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">21</span><br /></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black cloche style hat</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Tan doublet, closely fitted to the waist, and with grown on skirts to hip. Sleevehead appears to be gathered. </span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Pink hosen.</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">22; Server</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black round cap with back flap</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Red doublet, with close appearing sleeves. Sleeves are odd, with gathering at sleevehead even though the sleeve itself is quite tight.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">White apron</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">23; Firetender<br /></span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black bowler hat</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Coat is Greenish, and odd. The pleats do not appear to come all the way to the waist, and sleeves are likely disproportionate and poorly placed. Interpreted as long coat with pleated skirt and gathered sleeveheads.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Brown hosen</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">24</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black hat, almost like a modern flat cap</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">A scarf? Something odd going on at the neck <br /></span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Purplish doublet, hip length, loose body, and sleeves gathered top and bottom.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black full hose.</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">25; Roof watcher</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black wide brim flat cap</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">White doublet</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">White full hosen, actually pointed for once.<br /></span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">26; Pot carrier. His clothing is just weird, and will be discarded on the whole. Probably a thespian or something.<br /></span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Brown wide brim hat</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Green jerkin. Skirts are cut on with a side body slit, front longer than back by a little. Lines of trim in white and red appear a little from the edge on skirt edges and armsyce.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Upper sleeve is chequered red and white?</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black lower sleeve.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">White full hosen. These are normal at least, and show the seams well.</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">27</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">White wide brim shallow top hat.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">White doublet, closely fit</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Red hosen.</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">28; Puker. </span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Sky blue doublet, lined with white. Very nice.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Red full hosen.</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">29; Oyster Gremlin</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black round cap with rear flap</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Birty white or brown doublet, with sleeves gathered top and elbow.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">White shirt untucked.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Red partial hosen, possibly, otherwise full brown hose.</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">30; snuggler</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black hat with wide brim turned up at the sides and front. Narrow black tipped white feather in brown hatband</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Dark brown doublet<br /></span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">White under-doublet</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Dark black hosen.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Sword.</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">31; Musician</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Something black around his forehead. Scarf?</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Russet coat, lined with green. Calf length pleated skirts, and sleeves gathered top and bottom.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">White full hosen, with red garters on both legs.</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">32; Dancer<br /></span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Red shallow coif</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black doublet, neatly fitted. Possibly with cut on skirts.<br /></span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Red full hose, with one gold garter (single bow, outside knee), and white points.</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">33; Flagbearer</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black close cap with brim rolled</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black coat, full pleated skirts. Sleeves are moderate.<br /></span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Red doublet</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Full white hosen. He appears to be supporting the flagpole with his codpiece.</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">34</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black hat</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Light green jerkin lined in red, full pleated skirts. I think it's double breasted. Armscye is open almost to the waist.<br /></span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">White doublet</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black full hose.</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">35</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black round hat with back flap</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Dark grey coat, double breasted and lined with white. The skirts are knee length, and side opening with the back overlapping the front. Sleeves are moderately full, gathered at the top.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Full hose in dark brown</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";"> 36</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Brown close cap</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Dark blue, mostly shapeless doublet</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Full hose in dark grey.</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">37</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Wide brim light grey hat</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Light blue full skirted coat, calf length, no extra fullness to sleeves.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">White full hosen</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">38</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Dark brown bowler cap</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Light grey full skirted coat, lined with a similar value of blue. You can clearly see a seam down the center back body.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Red hosen.</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">38 The Second, back down to the bottom of the painting. Young Scribe<br /></span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Brown waistcoat worn over</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">White jacket of thigh length.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">White hosen, gartered.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">From his belt are two cases, one possibly a pen case and the other ink.</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">39; Barrel Nappper</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black flat cap with very wide top.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Chocolate Browncoat, gathered knee length skirts and no extra fullness to sleeves.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Grey hosen.</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">37 (yes, I lost track of what number I was on). Old Guy</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black hat, which appears to be lined with a dark blue.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Dark green double breasted coat, with a plackert pointed at each shoulder.</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">40; In the wagon</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black cloche hat</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Red doublet of moderate fit</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">White full hosen</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">41; Clearly holding a Niddy-noddy</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Red round had with rear flap</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Dark grey doublet, no extra fullness, quite short.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">White garment underneath sticking out, with a short back slit</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Matching grey hosen.</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">42; Stool hander</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black clap cap crammed down</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Brown doublet</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">White...is this a second form of shirt? Maybe a woolen second shirtlike layer?</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black hosen.</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">43; Near musician</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Brown shallow cloche hat.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Greenish coat, with pleated knee length skirt. Slightly gathered sleeveheads.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Off white or tan full hosen.</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">44</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Pale yellow or tan coat. Cut on pleated skirts. Little extra fullness of the sleeves. Interestingly, you can actually see the facings, showing the garment lined with a medium brown or potentially fur, with facings matching the fashion fabric. The lining may be self hanging and not pleated, but this is likely just lack of detail in the art.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black doublet, waist length</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black full hose, unpointed with black points.</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">45</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black close cap with upturned brim</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black coat with heavily pleated knee length skirts and sleeves top and bottom.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Brown full hosen</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">46; Pointed to priest</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black bowler cap</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black coat with knee length pleated skirts. Sleeves heavily gathered top and bottom. Appears to be slightly double breasted or crossover.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Red doublet</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">White shirt</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Medium brown full hosen.</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">47</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Bowler hat</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Thigh length brown cape/cloak</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black doublet</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">White straight legged TROUSERS. </span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">48</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black close cap</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Blue coat, barely knee length. Moderately pleated.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black doublet.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black full hosen</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">49</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Dark Grey close cap with no brim</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Blue/grey doublet of knee length. No extra fullness</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">White full hosen</span></li></ul><li>50</li><ul><li>Blue/grey round topped cap with back flaps.</li><li>Blue-grey knee length coat, sleeveheads gathered but not lower cuff. Skirts pleated only in the back</li><li>White/pale green hosen</li></ul><li>51</li><ul><li>Red rount topped hat with ear flaps</li><li>Red coat past the knee, fully pleated skirts, sleeves gathered top and bottom.</li><li>Dirty white or pale yellow hosen.</li><li>Kid behind him has a stick horse.</li></ul><li>52</li><ul><li>Red flat topped hat with upturned brim</li><li>Black doublet</li><li>Red full hosen.</li></ul><li>53</li><ul><li>Blue coif</li><li>Black jerkin, with separately cut on skirts, and shoulder wings.</li><li>Brownish yellow doublet.</li><li>White full hose.</li></ul></ul></ul><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEis780uA_x8oRX64etbU9FXY8fdk2Xc6lWSOqBYxj4sQqNEe-8PgAMWOuBPuFnV2LQFWeUk1u_dSM1gTl9gnEItBXrXpRvlpYXobQ1nVWz8w8mh72vy-qh29qEIsX5ldc42OBUWnMXQgZS5eqS7rpsRRlfq1R3TDIP_VlW6W9AnvAl3z0R5uQ1bUTIgIXY/s2560/2560px-Pieter_Brueghel_the_Younger_-_The_Peasant_Wedding_-_Google_Art_Project.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1579" data-original-width="2560" height="246" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEis780uA_x8oRX64etbU9FXY8fdk2Xc6lWSOqBYxj4sQqNEe-8PgAMWOuBPuFnV2LQFWeUk1u_dSM1gTl9gnEItBXrXpRvlpYXobQ1nVWz8w8mh72vy-qh29qEIsX5ldc42OBUWnMXQgZS5eqS7rpsRRlfq1R3TDIP_VlW6W9AnvAl3z0R5uQ1bUTIgIXY/w400-h246/2560px-Pieter_Brueghel_the_Younger_-_The_Peasant_Wedding_-_Google_Art_Project.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p></p><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";"></span><div><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";"><a href="https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Pieter_Brueghel_the_Younger_-_The_Peasant_Wedding_-_Google_Art_Project.jpg" target="_blank">The Peasant Wedding</a>. Another piece copied from his father, I believe the clothing is also most appropriate for the 1580s, but am mostly guessing based on the presumption of linear development rather than having an appropriate timeline at this time. It could be good inspiration for a period picnic.</span></li><ul><ul><ul><li><span class="x193iq5w xeuugli x13faqbe x1vvkbs x1xmvt09 x1lliihq x1s928wv xhkezso x1gmr53x x1cpjm7i x1fgarty x1943h6x xudqn12 x3x7a5m x6prxxf xvq8zen xo1l8bm xzsf02u x1yc453h" dir="auto"><div class="x11i5rnm xat24cr x1mh8g0r x1vvkbs xtlvy1s x126k92a"><div dir="auto" style="text-align: start;">Other things of interest--the <span><a tabindex="-1"></a></span>design of what I think is an inn in the background...what is that extended wing? I was thinking it's an outdoor access bread over, but that is one huge loaf of bread in it... As always, there is a plethura of pottery.</div><div dir="auto" style="text-align: start;">There are also a bunch of animals, including a couple difference dog breeds, ducks, pig, and chickens.</div></div></span></li></ul></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";"> 1; Server</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Shallow red hat, with narrow split brim</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black coat, minimally pleated, with narrow sleeves, and shoulder wings.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Full hosen in black</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">2; Server</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Blow round top hat with brim turned up</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Blue jacket or doublet, hip length. Fit is boxy for close, and sleeves are close.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">White trousers, which appear to have some gathering at the front. Alternately, based on 9, he could have normal hosen, and they're fully covered by a long white apron.<br /></span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">3; Sword cuddler</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Small black shapeless hat, narrow brim turned up at the back</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Sky blue doublet, fitted, and with gathered sleeveheads</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Red layer slightly longer underneath.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">White full hosen.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Messer with a ring on guard and particularly narrow blade</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">4; Nom?</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Red knit cap with ear flappies</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Medium brown coat with fully pleated thigh length skirt, and close sleeves gathered at the top. The armscye is not particularly wide.<br /></span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Red full hosen.</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">5</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black hat, somewhat pointed and with a wider brim. </span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black long coat, at least knee length and with fully pleated skirts</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Dark Brown full hose. </span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">6</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black flat cap?</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black doublet, of close fit. May be lined in a lighter colour.<br /></span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Lighter black full hosen.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">White shirt, no neckline opening visible.</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">7; kissss meeeee</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Blue Tudor flat cap. Quite unusual.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Dark grey jacket, lined with white (visible at neckline). Sleeves are moderate with no pleating and have the cuffs turned up. I see no sign of pleating at the waist.</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">8; Carver</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Short thrummed black hat. It has a very round crown and short brim</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Medium Yellow/brown--tawney?--coat, with close sleeves and pleated skirt.</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">9; Bartender</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black bowler type hat with short thrums or pile.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Red doublet, rectangular fit and no extra fabric at sleeves.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">White apron covering legs.</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">10; Gesticulator </span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black hat, with a deeper crown and angled narrow brim, turned up at the back</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Dark grey doublet with heavily gathered sleeves at top and elbow.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black full hosen. Points are visible.</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">11; More Beer! Remember, it was at this time, because of the Dutch, that there became a difference between ale and beer. Generically speaking, beer was hopped, ale was a "gruit", with other herbs.<br /></span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Red hat with wider brim. Only underside of brim visible.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Medium brown coat, with close sleeves and pleated skirts</span></li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black hosen</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">12; </span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black hat similar in view to above.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black long goat with narrow sleeves. Skirts are estimated to be around knee length, and appear almost gathered rather than the more typical knife pleats.</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">13; Thirsty Piper</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black Tudor flat cap</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black doublet or short coat. Waist length but with sleeves gathered top and bottom. </span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Red doublet underneath, slightly longer, and possibly a crossover front as the front opening is not visible.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Sheeps black full hose.</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">14</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black wider brim hat, turned up at the front</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Closer fitted jacket, close sleeves and no signs of pleating, but a little extra fullness in skirts.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black hose.</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">15</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Shapeless black hat with narrow brim turned up at front.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black jacket, possibly crossover front, and pointed at the center chest. Not quite knee length, gathered skirts, and close sleeves.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black hosen</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">16; Piper<br /></span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Red stocking cap with brim turned up</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Sky blue doublet, hip length, and with gathered sleeveheads.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">White full hose.</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">17</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Light grey wide brim hat</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black doublet with full sleeves. One sleeve appears to be gathered top and bottom, but the left is not. Artist mistake. At least thigh length and pleated skirts.</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">18</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Green round crowned hat with narrow angled brim</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">White jacket with partially pleated skirts, and close sleeves. Skirts are about thigh length</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Red full hosen.</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">19</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black Tudor style hat, crammed down.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black doublet, with blue lining. Details not visible.</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";"> 20</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black hat with narrow brim</span></li></ul></ul><ul><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black doublet. Sleeves gathered at top and bottom. Skirts not visible.</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">21</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black tudor style hat</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black doublet with shoulder wings</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Grey full hosen.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Sword! Or messer</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">22; Being dragged home<br /></span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black hat</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black Jacket with moderate sleeves, and thigh length pleated skirts</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black full hosen</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">23</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Red domed hat with front turned up, and two white feathers</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Sky blue doublet, or close fit.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">White full hose</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">24</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black bowler cap</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black doublet</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">White shirt peeking between doublet and hosen.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black full hose</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">25</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Red hat of some kind</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Brown coat, narrow sleeves and fully pleated thigh length skirts</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black hosen.</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">26; Pot Tender</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Green doublet with pleated sleeves top and bottom.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Red Full hosen.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">White apron past the knees.</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">27</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Wider brim dark brown or faded black hat</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black coat with pleated back skirts.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">White hosen.</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">28; Black guy 1, carrying a roast bird<br /></span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Dark blue/black? doublet. Sleeves and fit are close.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Green full hosen.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Apron is dirty white, I think.</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">29; Black guy 2--go over there</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Blue tall hat with narrow brim</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Red doublet with slight V neck and close fit.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black full hose.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Same apron as other guy.</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">30; Begger</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black hat with narrow brim</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black cloak, probably semicircular</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Medium brown hosen</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Darker brown lower hosen</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">31; Shorter begger</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black bowler hat</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Light brown jacket, of close fit and grown on skirts. There is extra fullness at back skirts.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Brown hosen.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Either calf height boots or more likely, extra stockings.</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">32; Food giver</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black hat with taller crown and narrow brim</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black doublet</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black full hosen</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Apron</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">33</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black cap with split brim. Front horizontal and back down</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Pale pink coat. Sleeves are closely fit, and skirt full pleated knee length. </span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">White hosen</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">34; Child at table<br /></span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Red hat with no signs of shaped brim</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Brown coat of calf length, pleated only at canter back. Sleeves are close.<br /></span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Apron</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Red hosen<br /></span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Notes for ladies; You see some wrapped headdresses, pinned on sleeves, and coloured aprons.<br /><br /><br /></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHU51W57BOSC7XWCIrKl21NMv77plfFExVuI0tiCbxDhWoby3FrXau8a3UY9kwCK5KrwNEPPBWhPoWj4CM9igvXMXoHcyi2qpUE_mfmLKFXW5CofpJcQpoFKF3WIxyg4ZWKhFdxGGSeSVx2rQ8x2AQFmOkBsXMzuNfCRew2DGbN4RbdzfEQjjmWf54kdE/s900/Pieter_Brueghel_Jr_Peasants_fight_with_soldiers.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="661" data-original-width="900" height="294" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHU51W57BOSC7XWCIrKl21NMv77plfFExVuI0tiCbxDhWoby3FrXau8a3UY9kwCK5KrwNEPPBWhPoWj4CM9igvXMXoHcyi2qpUE_mfmLKFXW5CofpJcQpoFKF3WIxyg4ZWKhFdxGGSeSVx2rQ8x2AQFmOkBsXMzuNfCRew2DGbN4RbdzfEQjjmWf54kdE/w400-h294/Pieter_Brueghel_Jr_Peasants_fight_with_soldiers.jpg" width="400" /></a></div></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";"><a href="https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Pieter_Brueghel_Jr_Peasants_fight_with_soldiers.jpg" target="_blank">Peasants Fight with Soldiers</a>, 17th century</span></li><ul><ul><ul><li><span class="x193iq5w xeuugli x13faqbe x1vvkbs x1xmvt09 x1lliihq x1s928wv xhkezso x1gmr53x x1cpjm7i x1fgarty x1943h6x xudqn12 x3x7a5m x6prxxf xvq8zen xo1l8bm xzsf02u x1yc453h" dir="auto"><div class="x11i5rnm xat24cr x1mh8g0r x1vvkbs xtlvy1s x126k92a"><div dir="auto" style="text-align: start;">I have found a couple of different "Peasants Fighting", the other of which is later in period, and involved a card game.</div></div><div class="x11i5rnm xat24cr x1mh8g0r x1vvkbs xtlvy1s x126k92a"><div dir="auto" style="text-align: start;">This one is...interesting. Semi-allegorical, and just plain anachronistic when it comes to the clothing of the soldiers. They look like they stepped out of the 1550s, including those magnificent proto-pluderhose which remind me of tripp pants. I may want that outfit a bit. Or at least to <span><a tabindex="-1"></a></span>instigate someone else to make it.</div></div></span></li></ul></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">1</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black broad brim hat on ground next to him.<br /></span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black knee length coat with pleated skirt. Lined with dark grey.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Red doublet or waistcoat, no visible front opening</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">White full hosen.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Slightly curved knife <br /></span></li></ul><li>2</li><ul><li>Black with narrow uprolled hem.</li><li>Brown outer garment.</li></ul><li>3 </li><ul><li>Black hat with rolled hem.</li><li>Brown outer garment. Sleeves are close and hem likely no more than hip.</li><li>White full hosen</li></ul><li>4</li><ul><li>Black flat topped and brimmed hat.</li><li>White outer garment, moderately fitted.</li><li>Russet red half hosen, coming to high knee.</li><li>Black netherstocks rolled down.</li></ul><li>5</li><ul><li>Black hat. </li><li>Red coif under</li><li>Light grey coat, thigh length.</li><li>Grey doublet.</li><li>Darker grey hosen.</li></ul></ul></ul><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwhIR28ehlv6hN3koR8s9DlmPUFWM0A5X6yCxqxT_z1ZLGy2Vb3eTJQWotx4lFE__crKUHB_DJ04oSUQqZCHLKakX59494pPok7MmfuySmrM33ovnbLfpr3IpRhdUBvoTyhNpKxV_2nMT1A9Xq8_z_hcWrLrnCu2ling19fn7pO1Ub7KorapoYuaM98U4/s600/Saint_John%E2%80%99s_Dancers_in_Molenbeeck%E2%80%99_(1592)_by_Pieter_Brueghel_II.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="395" data-original-width="600" height="264" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwhIR28ehlv6hN3koR8s9DlmPUFWM0A5X6yCxqxT_z1ZLGy2Vb3eTJQWotx4lFE__crKUHB_DJ04oSUQqZCHLKakX59494pPok7MmfuySmrM33ovnbLfpr3IpRhdUBvoTyhNpKxV_2nMT1A9Xq8_z_hcWrLrnCu2ling19fn7pO1Ub7KorapoYuaM98U4/w400-h264/Saint_John%E2%80%99s_Dancers_in_Molenbeeck%E2%80%99_(1592)_by_Pieter_Brueghel_II.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";"><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Saint_John%E2%80%99s_Dancers_in_Molenbeeck%E2%80%99_(1592)_by_Pieter_Brueghel_II.jpg" target="_blank">Saint John's Dancers on Their Way to Meulenbeeck</a>, 1592. Disgustingly low resolution, but I can make out some details. Apparently, this was a parade of Epileptics, on pilgrimage. <br /></span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">1</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Brown doublet, of thigh length and rude fit, which appears to have an oddly square neckline</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black full hose</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">2</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Brown cap<br /></span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Blue Doublet, with full but ungathered sleeves</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Brown full hose</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">3</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black cap with narrow brim, turned up at front</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black rudely fitte upper garment. I see a slight side slit?</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black full hosen.</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">4, Musician</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Red hat with turned up brim</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Pink outer garment with full sleeves, side slit,</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Red hosen, points seen hanging</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">5, Musician 2</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black cap, appearing fairly small</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Red doublet of barely waist length and full sleeved.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">White garment underneath, with side and front slits</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black full hosen.</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">6, Running guy</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Brown, thigh length outer garment. We can see the sleeves are close to the wrist, but no real other details</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Some round brown case close to the waist (either on a belt or cross-shoulder)</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black full hosen.</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">7, Proto-goth<br /></span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black coiflike cap</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black doublet</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black hosen. </span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">8, Lady Hauler</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Brown doublet, with moderate sleeves and gapping slightly at the front.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">White shirt</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">White full hosen, with red points.</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">9</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black or dark grey doublet of hip length and close fit. No extra fabric in sleeves.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black/charcoal full hose.</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">10, in the background on the bridge</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black cap</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Red doublet</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">White full hosen.<br /><br /><br /></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFZrIbbNvaz_F-0bc8EdLmFgS5JJBcb6uDj0dgXu74DIqts0414DXl7ZSB5d5GdQNKJfwZIQRXTWjW8r_aQp0i2FJbswxrtT9NpZX7QM8NSbHITheMe9KFlR735NSr64-SSHleA1X4GdZwW3K6MWmrdn1HD2esA9w5ou_5aOt4dY_0OUeYVfhFQq6XOtU/s2560/The%20Winchman,%20Bruegel%20Younger.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1630" data-original-width="2560" height="255" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFZrIbbNvaz_F-0bc8EdLmFgS5JJBcb6uDj0dgXu74DIqts0414DXl7ZSB5d5GdQNKJfwZIQRXTWjW8r_aQp0i2FJbswxrtT9NpZX7QM8NSbHITheMe9KFlR735NSr64-SSHleA1X4GdZwW3K6MWmrdn1HD2esA9w5ou_5aOt4dY_0OUeYVfhFQq6XOtU/w400-h255/The%20Winchman,%20Bruegel%20Younger.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><br /></li></ul></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";"><a href="https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Pieter_Brueghel_de_Jonge_(1564-1638)_De_lierenman_-_Noordbrabants_Museum_%27s-Hertogenbosch_26-8-2016_14-14-30.JPG" target="_blank">The Winchman</a>, 17th century</span></li><ul><ul><ul><li><span class="x193iq5w xeuugli x13faqbe x1vvkbs x1xmvt09 x1lliihq x1s928wv xhkezso x1gmr53x x1cpjm7i x1fgarty x1943h6x xudqn12 x3x7a5m x6prxxf xvq8zen xo1l8bm xzsf02u x1yc453h" dir="auto"><div class="x11i5rnm xat24cr x1mh8g0r x1vvkbs xtlvy1s x126k92a"><div dir="auto" style="text-align: start;">A painting depicting a traveling begger/hurdy-gurdy man, surrounded by children. While the painting is 17th century--and I suspect 1630s--the majority of clothing is still in line with what I would expect, although with some stylistic differences.</div></div><div class="x11i5rnm xat24cr x1mh8g0r x1vvkbs xtlvy1s x126k92a"><div dir="auto" style="text-align: start;">Other features of note; a butcher bleeding a pig and gathering the blood in what appears to be an iron pipkin? Something for the cooks, there.</div><div dir="auto" style="text-align: start;">Some <span><a tabindex="-1"></a></span>various bits of woodworking, including a ladder with some interesting rungs. Hammers in the trough to the right. Wicker basketry. Dog breeds.</div></div></span></li></ul></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">1</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black round domed hat with back brim turned up. a cord band is visible.<br /></span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Red/russet doublet, lined with white. New to be seen is that the doublet is spiral laced up the front, although he has it unlaced from chest down to allow for his gut. Sleeves are close, but still have some gathering at sleevehead.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Sheeps black/brown full hosen</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Lovely little knife with a white hilt</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">2</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black cap</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Dark brown doublet, lightly gathered sleeveheads, spiral laced front. </span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Red garment under, slightly longer, and no visible front opening</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black full hosen.</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">3</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Greyish broad brimmed hat, front turned up. Narrow tied band, which may just be a spare point.<br /></span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Kakhi doublet, gathered sleeveheads, and laced front. Lacing points are visible at the hem, with one having a reddish point tied into it.<br /></span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Mouse coloured under garment, slightly longer. Also laced front</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">White shirt, untucked at the back</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Greenish loose full hosen, raggedly shortened at the calf.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">buff netherstocks.</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">4</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Broad brimmed black hat, turned up at the front.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black doublet, possibly lined in white. </span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">5; The Winchman</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Ragged wide brim black hat which appears to have his hair sticking up through it.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black cloak, lined in brown and heavily patched.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Brown doublet in the older style. Comes past the waist and no signs of being pointed for hosen. Sleeves are close, and the visible wrist closes with one button. Front closing is one or two points and the belt.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Belt has a simple penannular buckle A longer knife hangs at center front, as well as his bowl .</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Red full hose of poor fit, and ragged at the knee.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Surprisingly, tall boots rolled down. They are two colours, as though heavily patched as well.</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">6, Scribe</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black knit hat with the brim rolled up.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Yellow doublet of thigh length. Sleeves are gathered.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black full hose.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">From his belt he appears to have a inkwell and pen-case.</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">7, Modern guy His clothing is quite up to date and more wealthy, appearing to be from the 1630s</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black broad brim hat, front turned up.<br /></span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Brown coat, with drop shoulders and gathered sleeves. Body appears fairly square.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Very 1630s style hose, of the loose shorts variety. Pockets and side trim are visible.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black netherstocks <br /></span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">8, Gamester</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black flat cap.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Brown doublet, sleeves appear moderately full.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">RED GLOVES</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">10</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Tall knit cap, split to allow for his head</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Goose turd doublet, pointed at the front, close but gathered sleeves. </span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black Trousers, with points hanging loose.</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">11, Butcher</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Dark blue pork pie type hat, slouched, and with brim turned up</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Has a full, neat beard for once.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black jerkin, possibly leather?</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Rellow double, full sleeves.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Faded black full hose, patched a the knee. </span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">12, Old guy</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black flat hat.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Dark brown closely fitted outer garment</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">17</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black broad brimmed hat</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black doublet, points clearly visible and actually fastened for once.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black full hosen.</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">13, Background pointer</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Red cap of some kind</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Blue/green coat of thigh length, pleated skirts, and double breasted.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Red doublet or waistcoat.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">White full hosen.</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">14</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Greenish hat.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Brown doublet</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Greenish full hosen.</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">15; Dog walker</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black cap with rear brim turned up</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Brown doublet, closely fit</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Blue full hosen</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Basket on his arm and walking stick.</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">16</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Blue cap</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Pink doublet</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black trouser type hosen.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Apron<br /><br /><br /></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEis5j6yO_FLrLlRAN_aV9fGzZ3BYIhrzv-OtyuDhI8fYJQcMRMsJZtwkEjfV6R7FrHhPPRiL1cfWBdn5KvR2eejK_IzirXNFN3wIOJd5UVCtCifq8NcbOGgPkuGfPPCi8Su5Z8CgxhE-lkTu2IxUvmMYrHvRQSaTiJNao6wlSAu4voDoxgnIYuz_2Ik_Po/s2704/Pieter_bruegel_il_giovane,_autunno_02.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1896" data-original-width="2704" height="280" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEis5j6yO_FLrLlRAN_aV9fGzZ3BYIhrzv-OtyuDhI8fYJQcMRMsJZtwkEjfV6R7FrHhPPRiL1cfWBdn5KvR2eejK_IzirXNFN3wIOJd5UVCtCifq8NcbOGgPkuGfPPCi8Su5Z8CgxhE-lkTu2IxUvmMYrHvRQSaTiJNao6wlSAu4voDoxgnIYuz_2Ik_Po/w400-h280/Pieter_bruegel_il_giovane,_autunno_02.JPG" width="400" /></a></div></li></ul></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";"><a href="https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Pieter_bruegel_il_giovane,_autunno_02.JPG" target="_blank">Autumn (Slaughter and Pressing the Grapes)</a>, end of 16th cen?</span></li><ul><ul><ul><li><span class="x193iq5w xeuugli x13faqbe x1vvkbs x1xmvt09 x1lliihq x1s928wv xhkezso x1gmr53x x1cpjm7i x1fgarty x1943h6x xudqn12 x3x7a5m x6prxxf xvq8zen xo1l8bm xzsf02u x1yc453h" dir="auto"><div class="x11i5rnm xat24cr x1mh8g0r x1vvkbs xtlvy1s x126k92a"><div dir="auto" style="text-align: start;">Another undated piece, and the above is my estimation. There is a whole lot going on here with harvest time; </div><div dir="auto" style="text-align: start;">Slaughtering pigs and cow(?), including collecting the blood. You get a glimpse of some cookwares, as well as a couple of cool axes.</div><div dir="auto" style="text-align: start;">Grape harvesting and stomping into wine, which includes a small two wheeled cart.</div><div dir="auto" style="text-align: start;">And <span><a tabindex="-1"></a></span>lastly, overlooked in the background, hops harvesting.</div></div></span></li></ul></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";"> 1</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Grey broad brim hat, back brim turned up.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Dark Grey coat with long pleated skirts. Sleeves are gathered top and bottom. </span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Messer?</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">13</span><br /></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Green knit hat, with rulled up brim</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Red doublet</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">3</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black cloche style hat, lightly thrummed and with back brim turned up.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black pleat skirted coat (self lined or otherwise with black facings), with sleeves gathered top and bottom. There is a visible white point at the neck/upper chest.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">White shirt</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">3, Axe wielder</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black hat, probably blocked.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Red doublet with close sleeves and a narrow cut on skirt. One sleeve is rolled up a little. There appears to be a slight collar as well.<br /></span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">White shirt.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black knee length hosen.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">White apron, somewhat ragged.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Buff or off white lower leg coverings, either netherstocks or gaiters.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Knife set hanging center front.</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">4, Butcher</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black knit hat with round top and back flap</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Green doublet.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black full hosen.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">White apron</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Suit of knives and spoon.</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">5, Barrel filler</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Blue doublet</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black hosen</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">White apron.</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">6, Grape Squisher</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Pink doublet with short cut on skirts</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Green breeches style hosen</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">14, Grape squisher 2</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black hat with narrow brim</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black doublet</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black knee length hosen.</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">7, grape hauler</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">White shirt, sleeves rolled up</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Russet full hosen</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">White apron.</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">8, drover</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black hat, rear brim turned up.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Red doublet, possibly crossover front</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">White full hosen.</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">9. He appears to be wearing more fashonable clothing.<br /></span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black hat, fairly fall with narrow, angled brim</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Brown doublet, cut on skirts</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Brown knee length hosen.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black netherstocks</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">(Dirty) white apron</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">10, Hops Hauler</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Red cap, round topped with rear flap</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Blue doublet</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">White full hosen</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">White apron</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">11, Hops picker</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Brown hat</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Red doublet</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black full hosen</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">White doublet</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">12</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Red hat of some kind</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black doublet to the waist</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">White shirt peeking out</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Red full hosen.</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">15 (in the hayloft)</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Red hat, brim turned up</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Middle Blue doublet, lightly gathered sleeves.<br /><br /><br /></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVnP767lzlUNhKwQ5WNMRe6vpIA5fDjPduDDf-7UMx6S30-0Lh8WPji9rcoAC21EMF-5G1EBzoQBq4nG2r8YXLvnvEFRhtwSNO8dRnPo2sadi5PIS0EI_jBWAC_ykGErp7o-sNy_U-V1HkmBo8opMNOGheGCoEy48ol5GXWWGwT_drI33urlspuT3IBJk/s2348/Pieter_bruegel_Country%20party.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1648" data-original-width="2348" height="281" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVnP767lzlUNhKwQ5WNMRe6vpIA5fDjPduDDf-7UMx6S30-0Lh8WPji9rcoAC21EMF-5G1EBzoQBq4nG2r8YXLvnvEFRhtwSNO8dRnPo2sadi5PIS0EI_jBWAC_ykGErp7o-sNy_U-V1HkmBo8opMNOGheGCoEy48ol5GXWWGwT_drI33urlspuT3IBJk/w400-h281/Pieter_bruegel_Country%20party.JPG" width="400" /></a></div></li></ul></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";"><a href="https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Pieter_bruegel_il_giovane,_festa_campestre_02.JPG" target="_blank">Country Party</a>, unknown date</span></li><ul><ul><ul><li><span class="x193iq5w xeuugli x13faqbe x1vvkbs x1xmvt09 x1lliihq x1s928wv xhkezso x1gmr53x x1cpjm7i x1fgarty x1943h6x xudqn12 x3x7a5m x6prxxf xvq8zen xo1l8bm xzsf02u x1yc453h" dir="auto">Other
than the clothing, both male and female, we have a quite interesting
char with a triangular seat and single stick back with curved bit. </span></li></ul></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">1</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black knit cap</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Light grey coat with long pleated skirts, lined in russet. Sleeves appear fairly large, but with minimal gathering beyond a little at the hindarm.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">White hose. Skipped leg day.</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">2, "fine" dancer</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Low black cloche hat</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black wide sleeved coat of weirdness. I think I see a shaube type collar with trim, and sleeves which are very full and gathered, but only go to the elbow.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Lavender doublet. Sleeves are tight and visible at the forearm. One or two points are in use.<br /></span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">White shirt. Thankfully<br /></span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Medium brown, shorts length hosen.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black stockings underneath, with a knee-split garter on the left.</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">3, old gambler</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Light blue coat of square cut, and lined with white.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Dark blue doublet, pointed at the waist and neck</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">White shirt</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">White hosen.</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">4</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Red coiflike cap</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black doublet or coat with gathered sleeves.</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">5, Dancer</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Pinkish purple hat with back brim turned up and two peasant feathers in.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Blue/grey doublet, neatly fitted and lined with light brown. </span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Red full hosen.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black leather belt and a rather chunky, short messer. <br /></span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">6</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Red coiflike hat</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Grey coat, with gathered sleeves.</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">7, groper</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black doublet</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Red full hosen</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">8</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black cloche-type hat</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Off white pinch backed coat. This is the type which has a grown on skirt, but extra fullness at center back which would be pleated to the waist.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">White or light grey full hose</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Large black purse.</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">9, Piper 1<br /></span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black hat with wider brim</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black jerkin</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Red doublet</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Full white hosen</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">10, Piper</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Red coiflike cap</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black coat, lined with medium brown. Appears to have sleeves gathered top and bottom.</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">11, snogger</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black cap with rear flap</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Grey boxy jacket.<br /><br /><br /></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimW33fr7XajaqNmmjFCssP0qrEX7jxgY_sUypjByMAFX06KxnST6I6wCGDiSAMwxoBQHGwWhoRqUadyKHMtKDSMQD9koQukmEIO0QkIzPUY4m6msWlgAbfRpPyZSu_GftIuG7f_KcSZLzdm-AuOCR_ohKmSxu4Cu6viwsC1uELGmMGmbxX83CvQMq-pM4/s1145/Pieter_il_Giovane_Bruegel_The_Return_of_the_Fair.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="672" data-original-width="1145" height="235" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimW33fr7XajaqNmmjFCssP0qrEX7jxgY_sUypjByMAFX06KxnST6I6wCGDiSAMwxoBQHGwWhoRqUadyKHMtKDSMQD9koQukmEIO0QkIzPUY4m6msWlgAbfRpPyZSu_GftIuG7f_KcSZLzdm-AuOCR_ohKmSxu4Cu6viwsC1uELGmMGmbxX83CvQMq-pM4/w400-h235/Pieter_il_Giovane_Bruegel_The_Return_of_the_Fair.jpg" width="400" /></a></div></li></ul></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">The Return of the Fair, 1620-30. The clothing is a mix of new, old, and some funky stuff like the unlabeled guy next to 3.</span></li><ul><ul><ul><li><span class="x193iq5w xeuugli x13faqbe x1vvkbs x1xmvt09 x1lliihq x1s928wv xhkezso x1gmr53x x1cpjm7i x1fgarty x1943h6x xudqn12 x3x7a5m x6prxxf xvq8zen xo1l8bm xzsf02u x1yc453h" dir="auto"><div class="x11i5rnm xat24cr x1mh8g0r x1vvkbs xtlvy1s x126k92a"><div dir="auto" style="text-align: start;">Some features to note; there is a driver sitting sidesaddle again, but with more visible.</div><div dir="auto" style="text-align: start;">Clothingwise, you see styles which would have been in fashion 70 years before it was painted, as well as some slightly more modern loose hosen. The ladies' dresses are all mostly earlier to my eye. There are more pops of bright blue than normal--this <span><a tabindex="-1"></a></span>could be realistic, or more likely due to what the painter had available at the time (or aging/conservation work). Still...I really like no. 12's coat.</div></div></span></li></ul></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">1</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black, modern looking flat cap</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Red coif</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Light green pleat skirted coat, lined with light brown. Knee length, and the sleeves are gathered top and bottom. Double breasted<br /></span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">White full hosen.</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">2</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black round cap, possibly with back flap</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Medium brown long coat. Sleeves gathered top and bottom, skirt details not visible, but it appears to be not pleated all the way around</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black hosen, at least below the knee.</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">3</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black close hat, with rolled up front brim and deeper back brim</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black jerkin lined with brownish. Sleeveless version of the pleat skirted coat, with knee length skirts pleated all the way around. Appears to be fasted at neck and waist.<br /></span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Light yellow doublet.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black knee hosen, and black netherstocks.</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">4, Piper</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Brown bowl-like hat</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Green tunic-like upper garment.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Bollock dagger on belt</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Full white hosen, with red garters.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">BROWN shoes.</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">5, Drank too much</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Brown cap with brim rolled up.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Grey doublet, point eyelets visible at waist.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Red full hosen.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">White shirt,</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Messer.</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">6, Dancer</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Red flat cap</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Light red waistcoat</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Bright blue doublet, waist length and showing gathers at the shoulder</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Red full hosen.</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">7, Older Dancer</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">No hat.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Green coat past the knees, pleated towards the back and with a back vent. Lined with brown. Sleeves are full and gathered at the shoulder</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black hosen, only visible to knee.</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">8</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black, fairly shapeless hat.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Dun brown doublet</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Matching galligaskins--more modern fashion</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Matching netherstocks.</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">9</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Brown round cap with back flap</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black coat lined with dark red/brown, sleeves quite gathered at head.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Blue crossover front doublet</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">White full hosen.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Brown shoes</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">14</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black hat</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black doublet</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Red full hosen</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">15</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Pale blue cap?</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Dark grey doublet</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">White knee hosen</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Dark grey netherstocks.</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">10, Drover</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black, bowler-like hat</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Red doublet with full sleeves.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">White shirt</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Brown hosen, details not visible.</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">11</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black round hat with back flap</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Brown doublet, gathered at shoulder and forearm</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Brown galligaskins</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Brown netherstocks</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black shoes</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">12, Dancer</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black flat cap</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black full pleat skirted coat, lined with a lovely blue. Double breasted, but without super full sleeves.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Medium brown hosen.</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">13</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black bowler hat</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black pleat skirted coat, double breasted and lined with light yellow</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Dark grey full hosen.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">White shirt, no doublet layer visible.<br /><br /><br /></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXoHHl75ijxkLkvqNn0yM5X6ssYQRyOSymsNlPp_ApBD-eQruH3kw7Dos9WgudKwpXy1QYePt0hJi7MYOBlAEx_0ZZKoT6Y2x1N9Btz3PFYYfVoyOBANz1opy-HuT4s7afKFRDaTj9MDPm3diLZLHNkOqplYZF2XI1dt6J4PqRCzDoLSdK7L8_lOYp5so/s768/Peasant%20Wedding%20Dance,%20Bruegel%20younger.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="551" data-original-width="768" height="288" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXoHHl75ijxkLkvqNn0yM5X6ssYQRyOSymsNlPp_ApBD-eQruH3kw7Dos9WgudKwpXy1QYePt0hJi7MYOBlAEx_0ZZKoT6Y2x1N9Btz3PFYYfVoyOBANz1opy-HuT4s7afKFRDaTj9MDPm3diLZLHNkOqplYZF2XI1dt6J4PqRCzDoLSdK7L8_lOYp5so/w400-h288/Peasant%20Wedding%20Dance,%20Bruegel%20younger.jpg" width="400" /></a></div></li></ul></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";"><a href="https://www.crockerart.org/collections/european-art/artworks/peasant-wedding-dance-1624" target="_blank">Peasant Wedding Dance</a>, 1624. Again, The clothing is perfectly similar to that of 60-70 years before. I don't think this is due to stagnation in fashion, but nostalgia in painting.<br /></span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";"> 1</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Red cap with brim rolled up.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Grey pleat skirted coat, fully pleated and fast knee in length. Double breasted and lined with a golden yellow. Sleeves are gathered only at the top.<br /></span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Pale blue-grey doublet or other garment. Only a short opening is visible at the neck.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Red full hosen, with a gap above the codpiece. White points dangling.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black narrow belt, with knife hanging at center front.<br /></span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">2, exuberant dancer<br /></span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Odd black hat. It almost appears to have center seams and shaped much like a tea cozy.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Red doublet, with moderately full sleeves</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black full hosen, with white points.</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">3</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black cap with narrow brims, front brim flat and rear flapped down.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">White doublet with red points. Very short, and with full sleeves.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">White shirt, thankfully</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">White full hosen.</span></li><li><span data-offset-key="3m4gr-0-0"><span data-text="true"> Black belt slung crosswise to right hip.</span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";"> <br /></span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">4, Piper</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Grey cloche type hat.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Russet red doublet, with fairly moderate sleeves. Waist length</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Dark Blue garment underneath, thigh length and with side slits. It also shows at doublet neckline.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Red knee length hosen.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Light grey netherstocks, rolled to below the knee.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Short messer.</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">5</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">No hat. For shame, sir.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black doublet with sleeves gathered at the top.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Grey full hosen.</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">6</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Red flat cap</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Medium brown jacket, hip length with cut on skirts, gathered sleeveheads. Lined with a darker brown.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Light brown full hosen, possibly with slashing on the visible thigh.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Messer</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">7, Drinker</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Light grey round cap</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Light brown doublet, closely fitted, with gathered sleeves.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Dark brown hosen, white points visible.</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">8</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black hat with forward brim</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black coat, with knee length fully pleated skirts. Sleevehead is pleated, and I suspect wrist as well although it isn't visible.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Light brown full hosen.</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">9, Snogger</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Red cap with brim turned up. </span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black outer coat lined with white. It appears he is only wearing it with one arm in the sleeve.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Medium green doublet, sleevehead full gathered.</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">10, hiding in back</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black hat.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black coat with sleeveheads gathered and pleated skirt.</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">11</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">BLUE hat. A rarity. Looks kinda like a bowler hat. There are at least 4 other blue hats tucked away in the background, and one green one.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Light grey outer garment, of unknown type.</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">12</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black slouch hat</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black knee length coat with gathered sleevehead.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black hosen.</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">13, Server</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Light brown hip length doublet, lightly gathered sleeveheads</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">White shirt hanging loose to midthigh</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Dove grey rull hosen.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black narrow belt with knife hanging.</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">14, Red Drinker</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Red cap of some kind</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Red doublet, white points at waist and chest.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">White shirt visible at belloy</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Red full hosen with white points</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">15</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Brown beanie with brim rolled up.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Dull dark blue pleat skirted coat, past knee length. Sleeves are very full. </span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">White hosen</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Lange messer</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">16</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Brown cap, brim rolled up</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Medium grey pleat skirted coat with moderately full sleeves.</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">17</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black cap with brim</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black doublet</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Lighter black hosen.<br /><br /><br /></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWIOtnd-QkQirmAb-g8h0ypb5MxDzAM0pVuxF749cvXyHq4ddxAIQizsWg61nzbGLBbLsq9dVeoHes7QGY3oNT7ssoiualT1qSoDiYvW5vkYM7RWz_J0eMH9Rd29MgpNNLfCxMnYZHvQrVK-ZUjC139X_SqIgQlFuvot-SZKHDsee7wPDHq0ueJ9_JwDY/s2560/Pieter_Brueghel_Mealtime%20in%20the%20Country.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1788" data-original-width="2560" height="280" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWIOtnd-QkQirmAb-g8h0ypb5MxDzAM0pVuxF749cvXyHq4ddxAIQizsWg61nzbGLBbLsq9dVeoHes7QGY3oNT7ssoiualT1qSoDiYvW5vkYM7RWz_J0eMH9Rd29MgpNNLfCxMnYZHvQrVK-ZUjC139X_SqIgQlFuvot-SZKHDsee7wPDHq0ueJ9_JwDY/w400-h280/Pieter_Brueghel_Mealtime%20in%20the%20Country.jpg" width="400" /></a></div></li></ul></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";"><a href="https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Pieter_Brueghel_de_Jonge_-_Etenstijd_in_het_land.jpg" target="_blank">Mealtime in the Country</a>, date Unknown. I suspect this is later, into the 1610-20s, based on the lack of conspicuous consumption in sleeves and skirts. The detail of the file isn't great, and while high resolution, is rough.</span></li><ul><ul><ul><li><span class="x193iq5w xeuugli x13faqbe x1vvkbs x1xmvt09 x1lliihq x1s928wv xhkezso x1gmr53x x1cpjm7i x1fgarty x1943h6x xudqn12 x3x7a5m x6prxxf xvq8zen xo1l8bm xzsf02u x1yc453h" dir="auto"><div class="x11i5rnm xat24cr x1mh8g0r x1vvkbs xtlvy1s x126k92a"><div dir="auto" style="text-align: start;">The painting depicts a few assorted peasants, plus a group kneeling around a big bowl of...something, eating communally. A couple loaves of bread appear on the ground nearby. Really weird.</div></div><div class="x11i5rnm xat24cr x1mh8g0r x1vvkbs xtlvy1s x126k92a"><div dir="auto" style="text-align: start;">There are dogs, pig, sheep, and birds in view.</div></div></span></li></ul></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">1</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black bowler cap.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">White...garment. This thing is funky and will not be included in the survey unless I find a couple more similar examples. Looking at it, it has knee length pleated skirts, a second set of more doublet-like skirts, a double breast plackert which is only chest high and a front opening.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black full hose</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">2</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Medium brimmed, round domed hat.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Dark Brown doublet, with narrow sleeves.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black Full hosen</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">3</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Red Doublet of somewhat boxy cut, and narrow sleeves.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">White full hosen.</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">4</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black hat like a trunctuated cone with a narrow brim.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Modern black doublet with cut on skirts and narrow sleeves</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black Knee length hosen.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black netherstocks</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">5</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Blue hat with narrow brim</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">White short jacket</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Red doublet</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black hosen, in one or two pieces.</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">6</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Dark blue cap</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Blue doublet</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Blue/grey hosen of some kind.</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">7</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black tall hat with narrow brim</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";"> </span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black pleat skirted coat, knee length. Sleeves are close.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Dark Grey Hosen <br /><br /><br /></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIJrOhPwmT1uclxBzIPDQxKgD9Oh2RqV87lwUYuwhwcA1au6pf0mr-S7hm29nLBmR40I1a06bC2ghoEDKhxLhGUE7Trpup9r3twlnnMzY9sGLtMoODFUgkBItdsyQ1PRixL6EejSECPIOF4Tru2czIIdDarGTVcHD18rhp1mxPfXp7rl7a3Bl8FCkS81I/s1200/Bruegel%20Younger,%20Two%20Peasants%20Binding%20Firewood.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="912" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIJrOhPwmT1uclxBzIPDQxKgD9Oh2RqV87lwUYuwhwcA1au6pf0mr-S7hm29nLBmR40I1a06bC2ghoEDKhxLhGUE7Trpup9r3twlnnMzY9sGLtMoODFUgkBItdsyQ1PRixL6EejSECPIOF4Tru2czIIdDarGTVcHD18rhp1mxPfXp7rl7a3Bl8FCkS81I/w304-h400/Bruegel%20Younger,%20Two%20Peasants%20Binding%20Firewood.jpg" width="304" /></a></div></li></ul></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";"> <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:BRM_BIFA_44_11-001.jpg" target="_blank">Two Peasants Binding Firewood</a>, 1604-16, believed to be after a work of his father's.</span></li><ul><ul><ul><li><span class="x193iq5w xeuugli x13faqbe x1vvkbs x1xmvt09 x1lliihq x1s928wv xhkezso x1gmr53x x1cpjm7i x1fgarty x1943h6x xudqn12 x3x7a5m x6prxxf xvq8zen xo1l8bm xzsf02u x1yc453h" dir="auto">Additional
bits of interest are the background harvester's knife and the recorder
type instrument on the ground. The method of tying the bundles of
branches with withies may also be of interest.</span></li></ul></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">1, In the tree</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black hat</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Blue doublet with cut on skirt and close sleeves</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black full hosen</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Cool knife with a deep blade, almost like a pointed cleaver.</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">2</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Pink doublet, with moderate sleeves.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">White shirt</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Full hosen in red, with white flat points and golden/brass aiglettes visible.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">On the ground behind him is a knit hat with rolled up brim, and a black belt with black purse of the two strapped type. <br /></span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">3, Tattered guy</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Grey coif-like cap. He has an additional white rag tied around his head diagonally.<br /></span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Grey waistcoat, with quite wide armscyes.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Grey (all three are the same colour and apparent cloth) full hosen, ragged at the knee and poorly fitted. Black round points.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">White shirt, the neckline being quite open.<br /><br /></span><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkF_kLFTYGnhw4bQR4xK6XzdEOx1DoKLg1dk7XLRFtHT9oRJGItZNiODq9x5h8t4bxOrExPwSboIQUHXtsA63mHL-HxLok04IeE3BniMYFr8A7ctTN79c4R8JUqB2wFBouSt923J9Vz8GqQCwc2kzvJBvRQhgfY3YL39MQdweMSYlmVBoJnY9mr38DpmI/s1280/The_Marriage_Procession,_1623,_by_Pieter_Brueghel_the_Younger_(1564-1637)_-_IMG_7406.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="721" data-original-width="1280" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkF_kLFTYGnhw4bQR4xK6XzdEOx1DoKLg1dk7XLRFtHT9oRJGItZNiODq9x5h8t4bxOrExPwSboIQUHXtsA63mHL-HxLok04IeE3BniMYFr8A7ctTN79c4R8JUqB2wFBouSt923J9Vz8GqQCwc2kzvJBvRQhgfY3YL39MQdweMSYlmVBoJnY9mr38DpmI/w400-h225/The_Marriage_Procession,_1623,_by_Pieter_Brueghel_the_Younger_(1564-1637)_-_IMG_7406.JPG" width="400" /></a></div></li></ul></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";"><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:The_Marriage_Procession,_1623,_by_Pieter_Brueghel_the_Younger_(1564-1637)_-_IMG_7406.JPG" target="_blank">The Marriage Procession</a>, 1623. The clothing is perfectly normal to earlier.</span></li><ul><ul><ul><li><span class="x193iq5w xeuugli x13faqbe x1vvkbs x1xmvt09 x1lliihq x1s928wv xhkezso x1gmr53x x1cpjm7i x1fgarty x1943h6x xudqn12 x3x7a5m x6prxxf xvq8zen xo1l8bm xzsf02u x1yc453h" dir="auto"><div class="x11i5rnm xat24cr x1mh8g0r x1vvkbs xtlvy1s x126k92a"><div dir="auto" style="text-align: start;">Some things to look out for include several excellent examples of purses, another of that odd double skirted coat, and some covered wagons waaay in the background. Even further in the background by the houses are a pair of huge shallow pots over open fires. Somebody, please, lend your knowledge to guess what they heck they are cooking/eating in these celebration paintings!</div><div dir="auto" style="text-align: start;">Also, a doggo in the foreground.<br /></div><div dir="auto" style="text-align: start;">The women's <span><a tabindex="-1"></a></span>wear includes several rosaries as well.</div></div></span></li></ul></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">1</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black taller hat, with moderately wide brim</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Brown doublet, loosely fitted. No gathers visible in sleeves</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Red undergarment of hip length</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Tan breech length hosen, slip of the back of the knee</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">White netherstocks, rolled down to the calf.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black narrow belt slung crosswise, with a purse and dagger.</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">2</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black split brim cap, both sides folded up.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black coat, lined with white. This is probably a form of shaube, with lapels, wide sleeves and a collar.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Red doublet or garment underneath</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black hosen?</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">3</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black round top hat with split brim and back turned down.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Medium green brown pleat skirted coat, knee length. The sleeves are gathered top and bottom.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black hosen</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Brown D frame purse, fairly large.</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">4</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black round topped hat with moderate brim.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black coat with pleated skirts and gathered sleeves. Calf length</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Red doublet </span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Blue full hosen.</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">5</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Tall black hat with brim.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Light blue jerkin, with fully pleated skirts and armscyes just big enough for the double sleeves. May be lined in a dark red.<br /></span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Red doublet, probably. It has sleeves gathered top and bottom...it could be the pleat skirted coat...you can't see.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">White apron between the two layers.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black hosen.</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">6</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";"> Black cap with narrow brim</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black pleat skirted coat, with gathered sleeves. Lined with a medium brown. May be double breasted.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Green doublet, possibly crossover front.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">White full hosen.</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">7</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Blue! Wide brimmed hat. Red band. </span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Red doublet</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">White hip length garment underneath.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black full hosen.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Carrying a sword with the belt wrapped around it, under his arm.</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">8, Piper</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black hat with the rear brim turned up. Some kind of beaded hatband.<br /></span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Red coif underneath</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Buff double breasted jerkin with doubled and cut on skirts.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Blue doublet with oddly full sleeves. More like bagpipe sleeves than ones gathered at top and bottom.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Messer</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black hosen.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black knee high boots, I think.</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">9</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black tall hat with brim, red band, and feather in.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Blue double.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">White full hosen, with red garters crossing knees.</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">10</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black cloche-like hap</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black doublet, shirt peeking out at a gap just above codpiece.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Lighter black full hosen.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Large purse of some kind.</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">11</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Redflat cap<br /></span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Blue jerkin. The front is clearly front crossing to give an irregular V shape, and fastens at the left hip. Skirts are fully pleated and calf length.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Brown doublet with full sleeves.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">White full hosen</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black belt, with tan purse on right hip.</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">12</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Red flat cap with wide brim<br /></span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Red doublet with extra points at the inside of each shoulder. Waist length.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Red full hosen, with white points and black knee crossed garters.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black narrow belt with knife hanging from. He also has a narrow baldric running from right shoulder to left hip.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">White shirt showing at neckline and waist.</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">13</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Red flat cap with wide brim </span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Blue funky double skirted garment again! This makes two, plus someone pointed a third in an <a href="https://www.facebook.com/photo?fbid=954041269819909&set=a.594649262425780">Aertsen Painting</a>! Skirts are fully pleated with a gap at center front and knee length. Top appears to have more modern doublet skirts and a crossover front. The sleeves are long, and gathered at the top.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">White full hosen with red knee garters.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black belt worn close with a knife hanging. There is also a baldric or satchel strap over the left shoulder.</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">14</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black cap of unknown type</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black full skirted coat.</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">15</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black cap, fairly tall with a narrow brim.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black coat, lined with a medium russet. Skirts are calf length and fully pleated, and sleeves gathered at only the top, I think.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Blue doublet, no visible opening.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Blue full hosen, with white points. <br /></span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">16</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black round cap, back flap turned up.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black coat, knee length with full skirts. Lined in a russet. No visible front opening.<br /></span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";"> Black full hosen.</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">17</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Red cap with ear flaps</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black coat lined with white. Full pleated skirts and sleeves gathered top and bottom. Barely knee length, and probably doublet breasted.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Blue doublet, no visible opening</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Brown full hosen.</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">18</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black hat,</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black jerkin, with pleased skirts</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Red doublet</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Dark grey hosen.</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">19</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black cap with round top and rear flap down.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black doublet, also showing points at the inside shoulder, and gathered sleeveheads.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Red garment underneath.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black hosen, I think <br /></span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">21</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Blueish round cap with rear flap down.</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">White full skirted coat. Like, really full...the pleats are narrower and than normal, and there is no visible opening.</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">20</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Red cap</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Faded blue doublet,</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Faded blue full hosen</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">22, 23</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Red doublet</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">White full hosen</span></li></ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">24</span></li><ul><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Red doublet </span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">White apron</span></li><li><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black full hosen.<br /><br /><br /></span><br /><br /><br /><br /><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";"><br /><span style="font-size: xx-small;">© John Frey, 2024. The Author of this work retains full copyright for this material. Permission is granted to make and distribute verbatim copies of this document for non-commercial private research or educational purposes provided the copyright notice and this permission notice are preserved on all copies</span><br /><br /></span></li></ul></ul></ul></div>Brann mac Finnchadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04614813862245766203noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2468874881802139741.post-61841148319064863042024-02-17T14:26:00.005-09:002024-02-17T16:41:15.612-09:00Ten Years of Matsukaze Workshops<p><span> </span>This will probably be a relatively short post but....Valentine's Day was my 10 year anniversary of the Matsukaze Workshops blog. As such, I wanted to try talking about some of what I learned, and go over some of my most popular posts of all time. As well as some of the ones I am most proud of (the two aren't necessarily the same), and what needs work. <br /></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieUVZds4lmhLv27j9XDUNJmT_8IWOs0bUJACQqhSjoUF2sH7jZWThwmqPuT4fbqhEYOn9_gCKuy2M5ENOsiISBn_DtBsXhEct3yoksK390YXO_qx-ooiQPRcTQxyGNH1GWliyhggNPzbOV3aykPcRrrQKu-d0USZkpA8HcKLHicJ742RQT4ZXLq1RbXR4/s1717/37756835_1601985906597786_4032645640046510080_n.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1717" data-original-width="1717" height="322" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieUVZds4lmhLv27j9XDUNJmT_8IWOs0bUJACQqhSjoUF2sH7jZWThwmqPuT4fbqhEYOn9_gCKuy2M5ENOsiISBn_DtBsXhEct3yoksK390YXO_qx-ooiQPRcTQxyGNH1GWliyhggNPzbOV3aykPcRrrQKu-d0USZkpA8HcKLHicJ742RQT4ZXLq1RbXR4/w322-h322/37756835_1601985906597786_4032645640046510080_n.jpg" width="322" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sorry about the white edges...it wouldn't let me edit those out for some reason.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><span><a name='more'></a></span><p></p><p></p><p> For those who have missed it in the past, even though I don't do
Japanese fashion a whole lot, the name comes from the karate kata,
Matsukaze, which was one of my tournament kata as a teen (and one of the few in
Shito-ryu which fit lanky people, as it was allegedly developed from Crane forms of kung-fu). Since childhood, I've liked the imagery of the name, which translates as "wind blowing through the pines". Matsu is also shorthand for my home borough. </p><p>There will likely be a whole lot of references to procrastinating, and excuses. To get them out of the way; Pandemic and the lapse in events to sew for, Really Crappy Computer, Building a Cabin, and Cycling/Fitness becoming a primary hobby instead of just transportation. Now having a job which does not allow for nearly unlimited time at the computer working on my own stuffs (I did have that in my employment from...2016-2019? I think?) has also greatly impacted my productivity, both with sewing and on the blog itself.<br /></p><h3 style="text-align: left;">10 Most Popular Posts:</h3><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLIABww43PwwFLis4eGqZAeab4tuesfCt4R7P9hG7xBWb8VvW0GdOjihGmOvxdNfjukE5hSAXBfMXTJvEVzUvatn5B6jfp_xDTu09aDJdfk_c5GP3BS9YkLmXLERH41odeT3QMKxinmckJQcH43lfOSIoSRne0yhoCRDzPc2ZVb0bVS84DdUVSSRd0_dE/s640/DSCN1845.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="480" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLIABww43PwwFLis4eGqZAeab4tuesfCt4R7P9hG7xBWb8VvW0GdOjihGmOvxdNfjukE5hSAXBfMXTJvEVzUvatn5B6jfp_xDTu09aDJdfk_c5GP3BS9YkLmXLERH41odeT3QMKxinmckJQcH43lfOSIoSRne0yhoCRDzPc2ZVb0bVS84DdUVSSRd0_dE/s320/DSCN1845.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mistress Etain, in an<a href="https://matsukazesewing.blogspot.com/2020/01/a-wild-irishwomans-inar.html" target="_blank"> outfit made by me</a> for her Elevation<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><p><span> </span>The all time most popular post over the last ten years is my article on <a href="https://matsukazesewing.blogspot.com/2014/06/16th-century-irish-dress_19.html" target="_blank">16th Century Irish Dress</a>. Somehow, younger me wrote an article which became one of the main references for the topic on the net. Older me looks back on it and sees all the flaws; it's not a bad article, but it does need updating and re-writing one of these years. I've been meaning to since I finally got my hands on a copy of Dunlevey (*cough* years ago), but given I have actual experience in making at least the menswear now, and have made copies of several of the extant garments mentioned in the article means those insights could be incorporated.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivWqx8tZgWF67X9mxeEy6XbK3TMelDfCFoLr8NSFVtvins0cg0HMYZ7XxkaS9ODdB0duO3VCwE2XrowaCnwAOrdVa41JXp-W4DMgaNH6H_ydm7xjFt4CPP5ZuwAl0RDzI1BtO7SKBVDFosX1XiWDUG31tEhdBVikpP74hOqb4k5JrCpjRxfdp2PZyAj6w/s320/IMG_20161016_193559.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="320" data-original-width="240" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivWqx8tZgWF67X9mxeEy6XbK3TMelDfCFoLr8NSFVtvins0cg0HMYZ7XxkaS9ODdB0duO3VCwE2XrowaCnwAOrdVa41JXp-W4DMgaNH6H_ydm7xjFt4CPP5ZuwAl0RDzI1BtO7SKBVDFosX1XiWDUG31tEhdBVikpP74hOqb4k5JrCpjRxfdp2PZyAj6w/s1600/IMG_20161016_193559.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><p></p><p><span> </span>Next up is my tutorial set on <a href="https://matsukazesewing.blogspot.com/2016/07/doublets-and-spiderwebs-brief-tutorial.html">16th Century Thread Wrapped Buttons</a>, where I cover three different styles of Elizabethan buttons, two documentable and one which is not. <br /><span> </span>Personally, this one doesn't bother me too much, as it's largely straightforwarded "this is how I did this", with a touch of "this is not period, but is a workaround for me". And a dash of "This style is not known in period", which I should probably go back and put in bold since I occasionally see it pop up and be contended. I'm guessing it's so popular because a lot of people do want thread buttons, and I feel my step-by-step photos which mostly comprise the post of the process were halfway decent.<br /></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiG7HTF6zarDww7fOJWRqpeulMvOa7V4hA53ykAqX4vmCPAzEdqg6sDSOubqgSsu17YdMKA37XMu4qbQmGRU8hp9Joy6CiqnPYQSo1aDPfA8uObzCwZUvBW3s-hJxiC4Z1J5mOAyK7lVHxWUOlI0x120SmusKtqPI8x2NVg4_KHtY4OjZZduKBY3g94Abk/s400/19th%20Cen%20Corset%20Front.%20MET..JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="400" data-original-width="226" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiG7HTF6zarDww7fOJWRqpeulMvOa7V4hA53ykAqX4vmCPAzEdqg6sDSOubqgSsu17YdMKA37XMu4qbQmGRU8hp9Joy6CiqnPYQSo1aDPfA8uObzCwZUvBW3s-hJxiC4Z1J5mOAyK7lVHxWUOlI0x120SmusKtqPI8x2NVg4_KHtY4OjZZduKBY3g94Abk/s320/19th%20Cen%20Corset%20Front.%20MET..JPG" width="181" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/162898" target="_blank">Early 19th Cen Corset. MET. Accession #<span class="artwork__tombstone--value">2011.105</span></a></td></tr></tbody></table><p><span> </span>Aaah.... <a href="https://matsukazesewing.blogspot.com/2019/09/a-brief-discussion-on-mens-stays.html" target="_blank"> A "Brief" Discussion on Men's Stays</a>. I am so glad to see this one make this list as it was very much a passion project, covering a subject which is largely neglected...men's shapewear, and actually looking at evidence beyond Victorian fetish corsets and caricatures. It was an article which took some time to write as I gathered various sources, and...well...got around to it as the topic seemed somewhat daunting. It is one of my top two or three favourite articles I have written. <br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaO0YGLQ6yZ5GXpU1TSe4YlapsYc3uNe8ZfKf_aQKI9V3mvP_VbAK0toucR-QNitvjYT2FZSQjSsmjeHQE3s2THIp1YojW6IwhDgajcx3uhDerdlkf9mFvo9vZKGHsPvuxt_QRAAp7oq6Z3iMmH5myL51yR7o8Blpcx9HNTDPp2HEqb8s9zmWE97oQAJQ/s1600/Moselund%20Compare.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1473" data-original-width="1600" height="295" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaO0YGLQ6yZ5GXpU1TSe4YlapsYc3uNe8ZfKf_aQKI9V3mvP_VbAK0toucR-QNitvjYT2FZSQjSsmjeHQE3s2THIp1YojW6IwhDgajcx3uhDerdlkf9mFvo9vZKGHsPvuxt_QRAAp7oq6Z3iMmH5myL51yR7o8Blpcx9HNTDPp2HEqb8s9zmWE97oQAJQ/s320/Moselund%20Compare.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><p><span> </span><a href="https://matsukazesewing.blogspot.com/2014/03/moselund-kirtle.html" target="_blank">The Moselund Kirtle</a>. One of the two pieces of documentation which made the top seven(?) list, this was written and published early on in my blogging journey. It is a true piece of SCA documentation, which I wrote to cover my mm scaled version of the Moselund Kirtle I made as my Artisan Project for Queen Violente, and then put up--I really don't know why I rarely wear it...out of sight, out of mind, I suppose. <br /><span> </span>While I learned a lot from this sewing project, I rarely, if ever make these kinds of garments anymore; not only did my focus switch more to late period clothing, but for the most part I feel that I have learned much of what I could from doing slavishly copied reconstructions where I copy every mistake and irregularity the original version has. Some if not many of the irregularities are likely do to fabric shifting in the last millennium in the ground, or just "sloppy" work by the maker. Others, on the other hand, might have actual reasons, or be there to accommodate deformities in the shape of the wearer.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0GfmCUiBHLcA_NMD01v6WTw5oc5k4V8ENXIY4s6wS0qPaMxBC7f7nWFUdRaEIMJ_vDh8N487jNAsAvXK-3H_jueCARqVhvgz853Is4cAtU9MSsOk0meXugHF8q7Y15dOLQjsPGhKDxUMw4GHQrKwxuoG1doyrACJ-ShhJcXwpEI85hfY2LHGFUaGXW8c/s400/100_4744.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="400" data-original-width="300" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0GfmCUiBHLcA_NMD01v6WTw5oc5k4V8ENXIY4s6wS0qPaMxBC7f7nWFUdRaEIMJ_vDh8N487jNAsAvXK-3H_jueCARqVhvgz853Is4cAtU9MSsOk0meXugHF8q7Y15dOLQjsPGhKDxUMw4GHQrKwxuoG1doyrACJ-ShhJcXwpEI85hfY2LHGFUaGXW8c/s320/100_4744.JPG" width="240" /></a></div><p><span> </span>My <a href="https://matsukazesewing.blogspot.com/2016/08/early-front-fall-trouserscode-name.html" target="_blank">Front Fall Trousers</a>. I have no idea why this page is so popular. It is the other piece of documentation, and while written in a similar form to my SCA documentation--and better polished as I was getting more practice with writing documentations--it was written as a Historical Sew Monthly entry.<br /><span> </span>It doesn't have tutorials. And it isn't all that historically accurate or interesting, although it did make a lovely proof of concept and practice piece for front fall garments. I suspect the mention of Hobbits in the title is what helped garner a lot of the hits (which to be fair is the goal of interesting titles).<br /><span> </span>Sadly, the garment is no longer wearable, as the crotch blew out... Ah well; I later made another pair in blue corduroy which is a bit heavier in weight and better in construction.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQa02LJiWizH4xLvemHKoxqq8iCKsVPu7Cl4lhv7eII_S7UPX5WnGRENdruK97KrA5moTrmpKoQS3qen9Y5eDFg3XnwobfxS7v54AlH9VyRM9oO8SrFsMAzNG0QRRhhpg1qRXhNsvqjcGWa_VF4AzWXkIjUXK1JM4ntFhKm0OJQf25UesxWhEG-M_Gmok/s400/edildaysplaincon00dild_0011.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="400" data-original-width="259" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQa02LJiWizH4xLvemHKoxqq8iCKsVPu7Cl4lhv7eII_S7UPX5WnGRENdruK97KrA5moTrmpKoQS3qen9Y5eDFg3XnwobfxS7v54AlH9VyRM9oO8SrFsMAzNG0QRRhhpg1qRXhNsvqjcGWa_VF4AzWXkIjUXK1JM4ntFhKm0OJQf25UesxWhEG-M_Gmok/s320/edildaysplaincon00dild_0011.jpg" width="207" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">From E. Dilday's Plain and Concise Method of Garment Cutting, 1856</td></tr></tbody></table><p><span> </span>The only one of my annotated Bibliographies to make the list; My <a href="https://matsukazesewing.blogspot.com/2016/03/bibliography-of-historical-tailoring.html" target="_blank">Bibliography of Historical Tailoring and Cutting Manuals</a>. Another labour of love, and one which I largely constructed both for my own personal reference for future projects, and so that when someone on a sewing group went "Where can I find Victorian Period Patterns?" I could just share a hyperlink and be done with it. I've played with a few of the manuals within, and always intended to play with more of them; if you haven't done any drafting off of period manuals and you do make stuff for the pertinent time, I recommend it. It's definitely a worthwhile activity, especially if you like puzzles. Make a scaled down paper pattern first to work it out.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2o36KgJbWR5qlKvtrmynroBBpKgoCvZOrhiZc5eWs8vQb5DrD7qVxyyz0QcEfzLzRqMLismIvXQwKO9A0Hhx-ugVpkpHuAd76bNHacUWhhx5obj-hDqXgz7lw61DOtNyVkewk8_CY8BX3IF_itgBBvXDe4r9lYYqEhB8t9Tjayh3EK1xHyKcWtVuk9bI/s320/100_4517.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="320" data-original-width="240" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2o36KgJbWR5qlKvtrmynroBBpKgoCvZOrhiZc5eWs8vQb5DrD7qVxyyz0QcEfzLzRqMLismIvXQwKO9A0Hhx-ugVpkpHuAd76bNHacUWhhx5obj-hDqXgz7lw61DOtNyVkewk8_CY8BX3IF_itgBBvXDe4r9lYYqEhB8t9Tjayh3EK1xHyKcWtVuk9bI/s1600/100_4517.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">From Pattern of Fashion 3. Arnold, Janet. page 20</td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><p><span> </span>The Second of my favourite articles...<a href="https://matsukazesewing.blogspot.com/2015/07/buttonholes-through-periods.html" target="_blank">Buttonholes Through the Periods</a>. Another passion project, as I geek out way too much to be healthy or sane about the topic of the development of buttonholes. You'd think I'd actually be better at sewing them, but apparently I spend too much time looking at pictures... There are so many little details into them both in form and fiddliness (which as an IS type personality, and physical learner is right up my alley), and I feel that correctly handsewn buttonholes is one of the little details which can really make a garment.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhY1W__CgTq48cp0VnOOh1WblwHnNjnn4G1DbeFqU8sUxOtXPfoNg890cFd9UtGt4qYnfxdL0fm-BG-BddL1tzlwTIOBJbZbixVrBd-Oc9liz0-McNs8aKlgvMTxRNnr2GrjeMqEsjAQU0SyXX5Xf3fU8HeZ8Ji3cLopHDsKR0AugKcxRUjNsaGhV8o8Kc/s640/83.23.2_front_CP4.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="404" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhY1W__CgTq48cp0VnOOh1WblwHnNjnn4G1DbeFqU8sUxOtXPfoNg890cFd9UtGt4qYnfxdL0fm-BG-BddL1tzlwTIOBJbZbixVrBd-Oc9liz0-McNs8aKlgvMTxRNnr2GrjeMqEsjAQU0SyXX5Xf3fU8HeZ8Ji3cLopHDsKR0AugKcxRUjNsaGhV8o8Kc/s320/83.23.2_front_CP4.jpg" width="202" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">MET 2009.300.999</td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><p><span> </span>The only Featured Garment post to make the list, regarding a <a href="https://matsukazesewing.blogspot.com/2015/12/featured-garment-patchwork-dressing.html" target="_blank">Patchwork Dressing Gown</a> from 1820s, I suspect a lot of its success is due to <a href="http://vincentbriggs.blogspot.com/2023/10/1830s-patchwork-dressing-gown-video.html" target="_blank">Vincent's delightful recreation</a> of a similar one from the 1830s--seriously, go check out his post and youtube video. I have nothing much to say about my post...it is fairly simple, analyzing the images of the garment for hints about pattern/construction/etc.</p><p><span> </span>I lied...there is another annotated Bibliography in the top 10. The post which started it all...my <a href="https://matsukazesewing.blogspot.com/2014/02/as-my-inaugural-post-i-have-decided-to.html" target="_blank">Irish Clothing Bibliography</a>. It was originally made in Microsoft Word so that when people on Yahoo Groups (remember those?) asked about early period Irish clothing I could just share the document with them, and not spend a lot of time responding. Apparently, that was something I did fairly often then, as I recall there being some thought put into deciding which of my existing pieces would be the first published. The page itself is good; I have no qualms about continuing to share it, except one...it was made 10+ years ago. Many of the pages are likely no longer available, and there has been so many advances in the subject since then.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWI4CKuN8PCp6Ayqx16vMAdWVhfFMakkCvzsiu0zCQnRb67t2CFh4sR6m6Nf91eqZbjaKbNeqIAyaasE9_B1XhfWJ6V2tNxGIc134gZwgOsELFBAys8EjYh08S693E_DpP3NMRhPUrcz4nJm8oA9_ImTZczGs0ENSeoiGY_mWn7vNUFLcGRmPQrttglbU/s1600/100_4055.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1542" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWI4CKuN8PCp6Ayqx16vMAdWVhfFMakkCvzsiu0zCQnRb67t2CFh4sR6m6Nf91eqZbjaKbNeqIAyaasE9_B1XhfWJ6V2tNxGIc134gZwgOsELFBAys8EjYh08S693E_DpP3NMRhPUrcz4nJm8oA9_ImTZczGs0ENSeoiGY_mWn7vNUFLcGRmPQrttglbU/s320/100_4055.JPG" width="308" /></a></div><p><span> </span>Lastly is another piece of early documentation, for a <a href="https://matsukazesewing.blogspot.com/2014/12/14th-century-womens-hood-documentation.html" target="_blank">14th Century Lady's Hood</a>. This was one of the few projects I have made for a friend over the years, Bella, who at the time was then Princess of Oertha. It was a fun and challenging project, especially trying to get measurements of her head without giving the game away. I stretched myself with using several techniques I haven't really played with even since then (mostly due to not sewing 14th century)--especially the tablet weaving directly on the hem of the garment. I'm actually still fairly happy with the garment, and still see it being worn occasionally.</p><h3 style="text-align: left;">Favourites</h3><p><span> </span>Featured Garments; a briefly lived series of posts I was doing when I had the time and spell slots for it. In these posts, I would find an unusual or interesting (the important thing being it catches my eye)--but not allegorical to my eye--outfit, and analyze it. I was originally inspired to do this by The Dreamstress with her weekly <a href="https://thedreamstress.com/category/rate-the-dress/" target="_blank">Rate the Dress</a> posts. This could be any period, and I made attempts to spread out the timeline rather than just posting about whatever period I was currently studying. </p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOYNDEPJVjeQhbmhmEpwwChRsBDuJ_tos0jKLoas8BvKS9SYIibTMz455VAua9wPIBedP-f6mg8HPTuRudpgLQfvNpoow0ZkaPR4PLc1OpKMfUYxLR5FJl3ayz5UpzUjvh-s6FXOopEeQbLe-sgacXwUCi5lKwvWD82o00msfIN7q2cNhLETPfGqfdopY/s640/Brunswick%20man%20on%20foot.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="441" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOYNDEPJVjeQhbmhmEpwwChRsBDuJ_tos0jKLoas8BvKS9SYIibTMz455VAua9wPIBedP-f6mg8HPTuRudpgLQfvNpoow0ZkaPR4PLc1OpKMfUYxLR5FJl3ayz5UpzUjvh-s6FXOopEeQbLe-sgacXwUCi5lKwvWD82o00msfIN7q2cNhLETPfGqfdopY/s320/Brunswick%20man%20on%20foot.jpg" width="221" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> <u>Männertracht aus Braunschweig (23v)</u></td></tr></tbody></table> <span> </span>These posts were hugely informative to myself, and I highly recommend trying something similar yourself; they helped teach writing, research, critical thinking and observation, and are good to help get you out of a rut of researching the same thing to broaden your horizons. I eventually developed an outline to help me go down the list and cover everything, much like I did for writing Documentation.<br /><span> </span>On one of them I made the full suit depicted--<a href="https://matsukazesewing.blogspot.com/2016/02/featured-garment-mannertracht-aus.html" target="_blank">Männertracht aus Braunschweig (23v)</a>--which became my Brunswick Suit. A few others I really want to make...someday. I have a private Pinterest board filled with potential subjects of these posts.<br /><p></p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgry9QapaokcCcKFyj8ahm7yS8u_Zut1yhdP7ujkuAra32T5JFzd2m85pKfhWhPff-SegQLXW3Ck_EhmTteqb8yQIwsENVebmJHCkvysMaPCIQnlD25zwwkAQtyuQDqye3Mzp_koBXfR1pFD9GhAfQortbiNu08eztFRXSq2FAAUtmsi4vys_xrv2z2STQ/s400/C.I.50.98.4a%E2%80%93d_F.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="320" data-original-width="400" height="256" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgry9QapaokcCcKFyj8ahm7yS8u_Zut1yhdP7ujkuAra32T5JFzd2m85pKfhWhPff-SegQLXW3Ck_EhmTteqb8yQIwsENVebmJHCkvysMaPCIQnlD25zwwkAQtyuQDqye3Mzp_koBXfR1pFD9GhAfQortbiNu08eztFRXSq2FAAUtmsi4vys_xrv2z2STQ/s320/C.I.50.98.4a%E2%80%93d_F.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"17th Cen Jacket" The MET<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><p>Over the couple years I was writing these, a few separate ones stand out. <br /><span> </span><a href="https://matsukazesewing.blogspot.com/2015/12/featured-garment-1330s-genovese-cioppa.html" target="_blank">A 1330s Genovese Cioppa</a>. In particular, I remember writing this because it gave me sooo much trouble. At the time at least, there was very little information out online regarding this exact period.<br /><span> My very first Featured Garment post, regarding an <a href="https://matsukazesewing.blogspot.com/2015/11/featured-garment-1820s-american-surtout.html" target="_blank">1820s Frock Overcoat</a>. Not only is it my first, although not a particularly odd garment, I "proved" that the auction site is wrong, and it is likely a costume piece from the 1870s-80s.<br /><span> And because I do have to limit myself to not too many...my last favourite is probably the seriously funky "<a href="https://matsukazesewing.blogspot.com/2016/09/featured-garment-17th-century-jacket.html" target="_blank">17th Century Jacket</a>". Many hours of research trying to prove it a costume or Theater piece from a later period...and in the end, finding it inconclusive. Absolutely wonderful rabbit hole, and hours of staring close at the screen.</span></span></p><h3 style="text-align: left;"><span><span><a href="https://matsukazesewing.blogspot.com/2017/01/1570s-brunswick-man-overview.html#more" target="_blank">Documentation!</a></span></span></h3><p><span><span><span> </span>It's not a dirty word, I swear. Blogging has been great for learning to write documentation, and is one of the reasons I started this page to begin with. In the SCA, part of the Laurel path is being able to document and essentially show your work, and--especially living in Oertha, away from the Central West Kingdom--getting your work visible to more than the locals can be difficult. Writing on a blog for /every/ project, not just Serious ones, gives you practice at writing informative, and interesting "papers" on your projects--for instance, several of my projects (like the Hobbit pants) didn't require documentation. I wrote it anyways, as it worked well for practicing your writing voice and how you personally build and format docu.</span></span></p><p><span><span></span></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4iiC7nn-EgpgHg4f2lyavWmDQsFzqiEbC_t-JUoGKvFRuyVxOhCrs9H1POd0RRvzqGGvr-FxhgS6-iDGaU4E0eTj1yvR9xci1smqMwnoCeRmdpn-QbmNgRTESbHN-PXrA-6lJY6h1Ok0B8QAm_kgaTMH0uAk1UfEH9HTyU7a3Ms3GQB7PHNAvL2mnk8Q/s640/Yuki%20(6)%201.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="480" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4iiC7nn-EgpgHg4f2lyavWmDQsFzqiEbC_t-JUoGKvFRuyVxOhCrs9H1POd0RRvzqGGvr-FxhgS6-iDGaU4E0eTj1yvR9xci1smqMwnoCeRmdpn-QbmNgRTESbHN-PXrA-6lJY6h1Ok0B8QAm_kgaTMH0uAk1UfEH9HTyU7a3Ms3GQB7PHNAvL2mnk8Q/s320/Yuki%20(6)%201.JPG" width="240" /></a></div><p></p><p><span><span> <span> </span>My favourite is probably that for my <a href="https://matsukazesewing.blogspot.com/2017/01/1570s-brunswick-man-overview.html#more" target="_blank">Brunswick suite</a>. It's definitely the longest, anyways, and as I was offered admittance (and my elevation 8 months later) into the Order of the Laurel during its debut,</span></span> it holds a special place in my heart. It was a massive project, with five separately written pieces of documentation--split up so that readers might actually read the individual pieces--,plus spawning the series of posts on pluderhose construction.</p><p><span> </span>Other than that...I am particularly happy with the Moselund Kirtle Documentation, as it was one of the first writings I really went into depth for, as I had to do a write-up for a garment which was /not/ being displayed in a Kingdom A&S display (as after my original Dungiven was stolen when sent down, I wouldn't do so again).</p><h3 style="text-align: left;">Tutorials</h3><p><span> </span>Like documentation, writing tutorials is great. It really forces you to stop, and think about the best way to explain how to do something. Plus, you can go back years later and reteach yourself how the heck you did this when you want to make a new whatever. They don't have to be long...but make sure you have lots of pictures! A picture says a thousand words, which your editor will thank you for not actually writing. <span> </span> </p><p><span> </span>Again, this ties into being on the path as an Apprentice...teaching and getting your knowledge out there is generally considered a requirement, one which can difficult for those who cannot travel readily. <br /><span> </span>Surprisingly, I don't have as many on the blog as expected; The <a href="https://matsukazesewing.blogspot.com/2018/04/bad-penny-pluderhose-drafting.html" target="_blank">Pluderhosen Series</a> (in which I realized I have an unhealthy relationship with the garment), and a series covering the <a href="https://matsukazesewing.blogspot.com/2016/09/a-robe-for-reading-drafting-mid-18th.html" target="_blank">1760s LACMA Banyan</a>, plus a few odds and ends.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7cHzLgO_3AOCAw1sHrtjPu2wCs_1_1VdDW4al3rbhwfh_FnOBio2KeI4F2auDvm8JhndsN-JYaidf-VI_im2D9k2RJkHJp7YwhYlWUS35WPwIdfHeCeoPcKgBKCgC7iQ4hZo2BO18GZchFQgCppYTvID9jgtxeKjdMLok0_kigOT9_If-6uSXdnrYC3Y/s320/IMG_20180402_160041.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="239" data-original-width="320" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7cHzLgO_3AOCAw1sHrtjPu2wCs_1_1VdDW4al3rbhwfh_FnOBio2KeI4F2auDvm8JhndsN-JYaidf-VI_im2D9k2RJkHJp7YwhYlWUS35WPwIdfHeCeoPcKgBKCgC7iQ4hZo2BO18GZchFQgCppYTvID9jgtxeKjdMLok0_kigOT9_If-6uSXdnrYC3Y/s1600/IMG_20180402_160041.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><h3 style="text-align: left;">Other Types of Posts</h3><p><span> </span>Other forms of posts I have made use of over the years include my "<a href="https://matsukazesewing.blogspot.com/search/label/Dress%20diary" target="_blank">Project Roundups</a>" at my peak sewing time, when I normally had 5+ projects going on at a time and was actually working on them all regularly. Those were the days... Project Roundups are my (less gendered) version of the common Dress Diaries you see on other Sewist's blogs. Essentially, every few weeks or month I would share what I've been working on, rather than waiting until a project was finished in order to post. I would also do yearly review posts showing off everything I finished over the year and discussing it in brief.<br /></p><p><a href="https://matsukazesewing.blogspot.com/search/label/Research%20Dump" target="_blank"><span> </span>Research Dumps</a>; Also known as Lorum Ipsum Bran after the feature I had in the local SCA newsletter, they date from the days when I had an attention span and would spend my nights reading a variety of theses on medieval material culture and sharing them on a FB page built specifically for the purpose--Bran's Linkspages and Medieval News (which is essentially no longer used...). Essentially, after a long couple of days of rabbit holing, I would assemble them into an annotated bibliography. <a href="https://www.facebook.com/scaresearchassistance" target="_blank">Vashti Research Assistance</a> is now doing this and it is fabulous--I'm down with it, although I wish they would annotate the links.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_iYseeP1pZGN_ASPwt4Ghp1AIgdLHDdozXLcXA47EEhPlKcs9UOsAks32BvQc1EySdpNGNsM4OsB-VsEN_XcjG1lTUQ7ZYKpX5wEoDVJ_Lvzbxcq9heCVbwIMLufDVFrPZ0rOc2eWTExdkEUsZ4Xa_zE-7CO4mUANvjMINDMsiuGgLEfnerp31XufCLw/s320/IMG_20180215_215121.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="239" data-original-width="320" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_iYseeP1pZGN_ASPwt4Ghp1AIgdLHDdozXLcXA47EEhPlKcs9UOsAks32BvQc1EySdpNGNsM4OsB-VsEN_XcjG1lTUQ7ZYKpX5wEoDVJ_Lvzbxcq9heCVbwIMLufDVFrPZ0rOc2eWTExdkEUsZ4Xa_zE-7CO4mUANvjMINDMsiuGgLEfnerp31XufCLw/s1600/IMG_20180215_215121.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><p></p><p><span> </span>Class Handouts: I admittedly do not teach as many classes as I should, and never have. It's a good skill to have and way to learn to speak in public (still terrible at), but I am very much a "physical educator" rather than a verbal one--it's how I grew up (excuse warning). My favourite there (but again, not that of my long suffering editor) is that for my class on <a href="https://matsukazesewing.blogspot.com/2018/02/plainsewing-in-depth.html" target="_blank">Plainsewing In Depth</a>. Somewhere between writing the handout and publishing it online, it went from a shorter handout to save on printer paper, to something with over 20 pages of text (not including photos). I'm not sure how I got a reputation for "handsewing everything" because I don't...but I still have a lot of tips, advice, and tricks which I share in there. And wear a thimble, dammit!</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8I-niajhR_hkMOaEGe3fYl_KdLkLyVbHsshqe7nv5Go_Y8_X2aE4FAnQZ1GwfjI9-il1Ssq8yPs60LVv9VE0IDRU1aPRiUHg8z9AjqB9ilkvP8lUtYRxhmd3cb5osN_r-1-WKMFzNiEi7wICEbARZR28CwlTPkFJCwr925-2PqhtYHM_o3LPm3NWmwVI/s523/308463532_10224463152218917_5809052156722045304_n.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="523" data-original-width="375" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8I-niajhR_hkMOaEGe3fYl_KdLkLyVbHsshqe7nv5Go_Y8_X2aE4FAnQZ1GwfjI9-il1Ssq8yPs60LVv9VE0IDRU1aPRiUHg8z9AjqB9ilkvP8lUtYRxhmd3cb5osN_r-1-WKMFzNiEi7wICEbARZR28CwlTPkFJCwr925-2PqhtYHM_o3LPm3NWmwVI/s320/308463532_10224463152218917_5809052156722045304_n.jpg" width="229" /></a></div><p></p><p><span> </span>Lastly, we have Articles, and Inspiration posts. Directly related to the Featured Garments (which could be considered an intersection of them). Articles are just that; they aren't on any particular project, but are a research paper discussing a specific topic...such as my Men's Stays article, Irish Clothing, or a couple of random others like on Wound Men, or <a href="https://matsukazesewing.blogspot.com/2017/10/pinterest-for-researcher.html" target="_blank">Pinterest for the Researcher</a> (which is a little dated given app updates since, but still should have useful tips). </p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizkLBaVLBww3vXRRElhdb7QXvkxbr5SVtC8TpWtv-vbFuy_iP9PblkfddmQsAktHr_cNPN7M5oipYtCacc3K7H2o9Ym2k2erxf_EhZ2GI3_Gc6EnH6xDZFxadRHdzeqV36q1DoP-HZtuRuxNjsBKpP9tvMeEB76oGtw6fs-sjiqIIisk_UATRu1j1GMSc/s320/22413c1269c4bf1132490167c2fcc246.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="320" data-original-width="197" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizkLBaVLBww3vXRRElhdb7QXvkxbr5SVtC8TpWtv-vbFuy_iP9PblkfddmQsAktHr_cNPN7M5oipYtCacc3K7H2o9Ym2k2erxf_EhZ2GI3_Gc6EnH6xDZFxadRHdzeqV36q1DoP-HZtuRuxNjsBKpP9tvMeEB76oGtw6fs-sjiqIIisk_UATRu1j1GMSc/s1600/22413c1269c4bf1132490167c2fcc246.jpg" width="197" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/84312?img=0" target="_blank">The MET. #1986.179.1</a></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><span> </span>The few <a href="https://matsukazesewing.blogspot.com/search/label/Inspiration%20Post" target="_blank">Inspiration Posts</a> are a remnant of my time as an (active) Moderator of the <a href="https://www.facebook.com/groups/144492112368133" target="_blank">Historical Sew Monthly/Fortnightly</a>. We (the mods) used to get together and assemble posts to give ideas for the various challenges; the HSM is still kicking, and I'm somehow still a moderator, but I haven't truly been active in it myself since Pre-Pandemic, and we've all been hit by *gestures at the world*. Essentially, I would spend many hours on Pinterest gathering topical resources, and share some of my favourites and ideas to give participants ideas of what might be "permissible".<p></p><h3 style="text-align: left;">To Sum Up;</h3><p><span> </span>If you're on the fence about creating a blog for your Arts projects; Don't be. It's a valuable learning experience, and can especially help force you to actually take progress photos while you work. Your writing can improve drastically since practice makes perfect. Personally, I write much like I think (less so than how I speak, as WORDS...they get garbled), and it is largely done as a mental "lecture" between myself and a faceless one. Your methods may vary.<br /><span> </span>If you plan to enter A&S competitions, two things of note; as said, the blog is great practice for learning to write in that particular style needed for SCA Documentation--it needs to be half academic, but remain easy to read and (I feel) humourous. Secondus, schedule your post to drop right after the competition will have been judged, especially if it's supposed to be a blind judging. <br /></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijLiyy-ZLWF-rf-GPpdMe_psT2k4ZcZm5UEdUxIj34N4gaQR2x455hHymMRW8R9hOPk0WIB7tnKgNPocIsJa-J8I6avZ5JeDS_eDyeDyJmfXioNRy_YbIbmntXjtp4cZfYVI77mEPQUE8Sy5oC22S42OAPSK-yYAV1d5l8PTXugNkk8amIrCW-OX4z2RU/s640/Twobears%20(7)8.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="480" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijLiyy-ZLWF-rf-GPpdMe_psT2k4ZcZm5UEdUxIj34N4gaQR2x455hHymMRW8R9hOPk0WIB7tnKgNPocIsJa-J8I6avZ5JeDS_eDyeDyJmfXioNRy_YbIbmntXjtp4cZfYVI77mEPQUE8Sy5oC22S42OAPSK-yYAV1d5l8PTXugNkk8amIrCW-OX4z2RU/s320/Twobears%20(7)8.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><p></p><p><span> </span>Some friends who I've instigated/pressured/maybe inspired into creating their own A&S related blogs: <br /></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>Mistress Gisla: <a href="http://anothercraftingblog.blogspot.com/" target="_blank">http://anothercraftingblog.blogspot.com/</a>, WHO IS EVEN WORSE AT UPDATING THAN ME, and was admitted to the laurel for "Viking Stuffs" a few years(?) ago.</li><li>Ulfhildr's Black Sheep Workshop: <a href="https://blacksheepcraftsworkshop.blogspot.com/" target="_blank">https://blacksheepcraftsworkshop.blogspot.com/</a>. They's doing it!, mostly with Project Roundup style posts. Also kitty photos included. </li><li>Arnthor's Hippogriff Craftwerks: <a href="https://hippogriffcraftwerks.blogspot.com/" target="_blank">https://hippogriffcraftwerks.blogspot.com/</a>. He's doing great work, and writing interesting documentations.</li></ul><p><span> </span>Tie-ins; Like "if you give a Moose a muffin" if you have a blog...I recommend also having a matching FB page to share it on and small things not worthy of an actual blog post. That way you don't have to post publicly on your personal profile. I also like to have a matching, tailored Instagram (which can be linked to auto-share onto your FB page)--it is a great way to keep interest and share progress photos while you are in the middle of projects with no end in sight.</p><p><span> I also have had </span>a brief flirt with making video tutorials for youtube...it didn't go so well due to poor technology on my part. I doubt I will resume doing so any time soon.<br /></p><p><span> </span>If you made it this far, thanks for reading my ramblings! You should probably always be scared when I start with "it'll be a short post"...I think every time I have said that, it ended much longer than intended. <br /><span> </span>I also want to give a thank you for my early photographer for shoots, and proofreader Halfdan...sorry about all the extra long posts! We need to do some photo shoots again someday. If I ever finish a project...</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRYApeAOBRgpB6_z1PbihVG18w5q-pqlLxTEFmGiHDnGDeiAM-Ur6oqr41FjU1kvWhn0Z7gi7ibO8tHp3AJ7bn-_5dk-L_qfYEMedDuTaNNZJTjBC0f7wWCWEEmjP-Yapf-7TC1fumaRiHckiOyskaCU9vdSq_ZeK4O1kdrQ4kC_Hs0EtkFpTNb_uqpNM/s2576/100_3587.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1932" data-original-width="2576" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRYApeAOBRgpB6_z1PbihVG18w5q-pqlLxTEFmGiHDnGDeiAM-Ur6oqr41FjU1kvWhn0Z7gi7ibO8tHp3AJ7bn-_5dk-L_qfYEMedDuTaNNZJTjBC0f7wWCWEEmjP-Yapf-7TC1fumaRiHckiOyskaCU9vdSq_ZeK4O1kdrQ4kC_Hs0EtkFpTNb_uqpNM/s320/100_3587.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Baby Grete sleeping on my <a href="https://matsukazesewing.blogspot.com/2014/08/historical-sew-fortnightly-walking-frock.html" target="_blank">Wanderer Frock Coat</a>.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><h2 style="text-align: left;">Here's to another 10 Years!</h2><div style="text-align: left;"><span> </span>My posts will be quite sporadic, depending on inspiration and how much I'm actually working on stuff which is related, but I do intend to continue posting, and am actively working on doing so more!<br /><br /><span> </span>Some things to keep an eye out for in particular are my Low Countries Menswear Research, which is /finally/ progressing since I gave myself the largely achievable goal of analyzing one painting a day, and posting it on the Matsukaze Workshops FB page--the feedback I am getting by doing so gives me the little encouragement I needed to progress and keep moving. I do want to start in on Featured Garment Posts on occasion, and I have a few pieces of Documentation for projects finished years ago that I never got around to doing a write-up for--this is why you journal your sewing (also, looking back at my instagram posts helps). I also have a few random notes in my journal regarding research I'd intended to go down and publish.<br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span> </span>I would love to go back and publish some of my unfinished posts and tutorials, which include several for drafting patterns of various periods, and apparently I planned on one on Elizabethan cloaks, and another on how fashion changed in the 17th century. Dunno what made me think that one would be a good idea... We'll see.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">What would you like to see me posting?<br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">This blog post has been fueled by unholy amounts of tea and a couple of cocktails.</span><br /></div><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><span style="font-size: xx-small;">© John Frey, 2024. The Author of this work retains full copyright for this material. Permission is granted to make and distribute verbatim copies of this document for non-commercial private research or educational purposes provided the copyright notice and this permission notice are preserved on all copies. But there is no reason you should be printing and sharing it.</span><br /><br /></p>Brann mac Finnchadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04614813862245766203noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2468874881802139741.post-34820144198112154562024-02-12T09:24:00.001-09:002024-02-16T09:24:30.573-09:00Peasant Fashion in the Low Countries: Part Two. Pieter Bruegel the Elder<p></p><p>Pieter Bruegel the Elder. One of the first artists who come to mind when you think of this genre of painting, and the one this project was named for. He was born between 1525 and 1530 near Breda and died in 1569, after living primarily in Antwerp then Brussels. His early work is mostly in engraving and drawings, with the majority of his well known paintings came after 1555.<br /></p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4tDNH5wXzrfbR_lj-BrsMq0LzkeT86Se7PGZOhbk2-tXOIMuE1Q0PJByb4WMyMiD2K_Q0odjf8uN8O0_H7NsVqtAx-8U-ENIiS_OKSnMTTkiDuxXM7ZsNA9taTxEsbH1azlachTrL3kbV_nCbx89dwIp3UmBW_PgyHxxywl8gp9JqGkCxiGIrOB5InAw/s750/Bruegel%20Parable%20of%20the%20Sower%20-%20Copy.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="536" data-original-width="750" height="229" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4tDNH5wXzrfbR_lj-BrsMq0LzkeT86Se7PGZOhbk2-tXOIMuE1Q0PJByb4WMyMiD2K_Q0odjf8uN8O0_H7NsVqtAx-8U-ENIiS_OKSnMTTkiDuxXM7ZsNA9taTxEsbH1azlachTrL3kbV_nCbx89dwIp3UmBW_PgyHxxywl8gp9JqGkCxiGIrOB5InAw/s320/Bruegel%20Parable%20of%20the%20Sower%20-%20Copy.jpg" width="320" /></a> </div><p></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>Parable of the Sower. 1557. <a href="https://www.wikiart.org/en/pieter-bruegel-the-elder/parable-of-the-sower-1557" target="_blank">https://www.wikiart.org/en/pieter-bruegel-the-elder/parable-of-the-sower-1557</a> </li>
<ul>
<li>Only guy</li>
<ul>
<li>Hat is black and mostly shapeless, although there does appear to be some kind of brim.</li>
<li>Outer garment is grey and only hip length. Sleeves are rather poofy, with a separate closer fitting pieces at the forearm. In the left (as worn) sleeve, you can see a slit. The garment may be lined in red, and may have a crossover front. </li>
<li>Doublet, not really visible, except as more grey.</li>
<li>Hosen are of the knee length breeches style in a lighter shade of grey. No details are visible as to whether there is a codpiece or not.</li>
<li>Netherstocks are a grey inbetween the breeches and jerkin in colour. You can see slight bagging at the ankle.</li>
<li>Shoes are low, and slip on, but do enclose the foot completely. Leather is black.</li>
<li>He is clean shaven, and short haired...and appears to be black. There may be sideburns going on, but I am not sure.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span><a name='more'></a></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBMhGWGhW0ZcrcFIHT4v8WD_EXPyi3U2L2VUc9YdSM_NHoKf-A41G4To6zP8ZUAE4tA-HytidrrKnblKBzXhyphenhyphenCQJub-CHwfL-uAgBiLEjWZGcxU9RjgoDgNacAV08qjNmkVuahNoA0rhC7ldV4w9D6WQB0ZXlSQJnHPYqNoS3T4Xpe8mgPvLjAscP5j6Y/s1200/Bruegel%20Darstellungen%20niederl%C3%A4ndischer%20Sprichw%C3%B6rter%20des%2016%20-%20Copy.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="888" data-original-width="1200" height="237" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBMhGWGhW0ZcrcFIHT4v8WD_EXPyi3U2L2VUc9YdSM_NHoKf-A41G4To6zP8ZUAE4tA-HytidrrKnblKBzXhyphenhyphenCQJub-CHwfL-uAgBiLEjWZGcxU9RjgoDgNacAV08qjNmkVuahNoA0rhC7ldV4w9D6WQB0ZXlSQJnHPYqNoS3T4Xpe8mgPvLjAscP5j6Y/s320/Bruegel%20Darstellungen%20niederl%C3%A4ndischer%20Sprichw%C3%B6rter%20des%2016%20-%20Copy.jpg" width="320" /></a></div></li>
</ul>
</ul>
</ul>
<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li>The 12 Allegories. 1558. Note, the background on this painting is red. So all the colours will be off. <a href="https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Zw%C3%B6lf_Sprichw%C3%B6rter_(Bruegel).jpg" target="_blank">https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Zw%C3%B6lf_Sprichw%C3%B6rter_(Bruegel).jpg</a>. </li>
<ul>
<li> 1</li>
<ul>
<li>Unknown hat, but there appears to be a long peasant feather in his hair.</li>
<li>Upper garment has rather loose sleeves, coming to a narrow cuff. No details visible, but I doubt it is longer than hip length.</li>
<li>Long plain white apron tied about the waist.</li>
<li>I suspect his hosen are knee length, but can't tell for sure. </li>
<li>Black shoes, ankle high.</li>
<li>Clean shaven.</li>
</ul>
<li>2</li>
<ul>
<li>He appears to be wearing a capuchon type hat in black. Loose and drapey.</li>
<li>Garments appear to be odd...out of date, perhaps. Outermost garment appears to be a long robe, possibly sleeveless, and with a split front. The skirt do not appear particularly full, but there is some blousing over a belt. Sleeves are a different colour, but that could be shading.</li>
<li>Under that, at the front slit, something white is visible. This could be either another garment, or a long shirt; there is no way to tell.</li>
<li>He is holding what appears to be another robe like garment, in black. </li>
<li>I think he has a short beard.</li>
</ul>
<li>3 (sitting)</li>
<ul>
<li>Low, fairly shapeless hat in black. It appears to have some kind of brim, but not much of one.</li>
<li>Jerkin in something lighter than the black. The front is open, but there is a fastening at the top. Sleeves are long, and may be two part, with tight lowers and poofy uppers. </li>
<li>Under that, I believe the shirt is visible, which is maybe mid-thigh in length, and slit to the waist at the sides.</li>
<li>Legs are bare, except for black stockings which are rolled down to below the knee.</li>
<li>I suspect black shoes.</li>
</ul>
<li>4</li>
<ul>
<li>No hat</li>
<li>Brown Upper garment has long loose sleeves, closer at the wrist. It may be nearly knee length, or that could be something else I see. I suspect front opening.</li>
<li>I think he is wearing a white apron, which is long enough to cover the knee.</li>
<li>Red? netherstocks covering his lower legs</li>
<li>Black shoes, ankle high.</li>
<li>Clean shaven, short hair.</li>
</ul>
<li>5</li>
<ul>
<li>Hat is black and probably knit. It appears to have several points.</li>
<li>Long dark robe. At least lower-calf length, if not ankle. Sleeves are long and loose, but fitted to the wrist. I see what appears to be a shawl collar, and it is front opening.</li>
<li>A black garment is visible underneath that, with a hint of white at the throat (just a spot).</li>
<li>Black shoes.</li>
<li>He is also wearing an apron, which is being used to hold the pig? feed.</li>
</ul>
<li>6 is a soldier and off topic.</li>
<li>7</li>
<ul>
<li>Shapeless black hat or hood.</li>
<li>Coat is a little longer than knee length, and a lighter shade than the headwear. Sleeves are loose, tapering to the wrist. The garment is front opening, at least. I also see some odd pleats or something going on as a hint in the back.</li>
<li> Lower legs are covered in close fitting somethings, probably red.</li>
<li>Black low boots</li>
<li>Clean shaven?</li>
</ul>
<li>8</li>
<ul>
<li>Shirt comes to the upper knee, and is slit to the hip. It is not particularly full fitted. Sleeves are modest.</li>
<li>One shoe is being worn, black and low.,</li>
</ul>
<li>9</li>
<ul>
<li>Red or white skullcap or coif.</li>
<li>Upper garment is black, hip length and has the loose sleeves which suddenly taper to the wrist. </li>
<li>Hose are light brown, and of the loose trouser style, rolled up almost to the knee, and with some gathers at the waist.</li>
<li>No shoes.</li>
</ul>
<li>10</li>
<ul>
<li>Appears to be wearing a cloak. </li>
<li>Outer garment is knee length, with divided skirts and long sleeves, colour a medium brown.</li>
<li>Calves are covered by stockings, slightly darker in shade.</li>
<li>Low black shoes, with pattens.</li>
</ul>
<li>11</li>
<ul>
<li>Long black coat, with long sleeves. I suspect the colour is a light grey. This is obviously pleated in the back, like some of the coats in <a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0692472452" target="_blank">Drei Schnittbucher</a> (amazon link). A short standing collar is visible.</li>
<li>A ruff is also visible of moderate size.</li>
<li>Lower legs are covered by a medium brown stockings, I suspect.</li>
<li>Low black shoes.</li></ul></ul></ul><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhLmgVhEV45Qoj1WZPM-vp1GKvm4iyxJdqx6zHfYbp9j5-wiqPhmRf_gIKMah0-qAng8_rMQezXZIz_emHhV68U_uZkKj1j8F44i-adBb8wz3wmx60EcqUV6bPFKGbNR10GwdoVUbJpj1fNFkATxePkI0fIrMn2d-RQQFQo0jDggSA7gJGTs-DoojvLqw/s5649/Labeled%20Pieter_Brueghel_the_Elder_-_The_Dutch_Proverbs%20-%20Copy.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4000" data-original-width="5649" height="227" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhLmgVhEV45Qoj1WZPM-vp1GKvm4iyxJdqx6zHfYbp9j5-wiqPhmRf_gIKMah0-qAng8_rMQezXZIz_emHhV68U_uZkKj1j8F44i-adBb8wz3wmx60EcqUV6bPFKGbNR10GwdoVUbJpj1fNFkATxePkI0fIrMn2d-RQQFQo0jDggSA7gJGTs-DoojvLqw/s320/Labeled%20Pieter_Brueghel_the_Elder_-_The_Dutch_Proverbs%20-%20Copy.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><p></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><ul>
</ul>
<li>Netherlandish Proverbs, 1559. As it is a somewhat allegorical piece, portions are suspect. Most of the clothing should be fine.</li>
<ul><ul><ul>
<li><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Netherlandish_Proverbs" target="_blank">https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Netherlandish_Proverbs</a> </li>
</ul>
</ul>
<li>1, Fool? There is another fool over by dude 15, who is wearing the donkey eared hood.</li>
<ul>
<li>Hat is a multicoloured cone with a white bobble on top. May be a real piece, or could be symbolic.</li>
<li>Outer garment is a dark, orangy red. Sleeves are loosely fitted and a bit longer than the wrist; no collar is visible. I would guess at mid-thigh length, but as it is rucked up, I cannot tell.</li>
<li>Under that is a moss green garment, which appears to be fairly heavy, and shorter. </li>
<li>Shirt is visible, as his hosen are unlaced. White linen.</li>
<li>Cannot tell what colour the hosen are; visible is a dirty sheep white, but that could be a lining.</li>
<li>Black bag of the satchel variety, which appears to flare somewhat and have a drawstring top.</li>
<li>Short hair, clean shaven. </li>
</ul>
<li> 2 (in shadows, hard to make out details)</li>
<ul>
<li>Reddish outer garment, which appears to be front opening and mid-thigh in length. Cuffs are closer to the wrist and long sleeve.</li>
<li>Full hosen of grey. May or may not have a stuffed codpiece.</li>
<li>Black slip on shoes. </li>
<li>Stubbly, and short hair.</li>
</ul>
<li>3; Column chewer.</li>
<ul>
<li>I suspect the hat on top of the post belongs to him. Black, very slightly shaggy. There is a texture which makes me thing it is knit, and the form is a low cap with a heavily rolled up bottom to form a brim.</li>
<li> Sky blue coat. Sleeves are long and full; I see no shoulder seam, but that may not mean anything. No collar, and garment is at least mid-thigh in length.</li>
<li>Short hair, clean shaven.</li>
</ul>
<li>4; Soldier</li>
<ul>
<li>Breast and backplate--don't care about that.</li>
<li>Two piece coif, high in the back, and possibly made of wool.</li>
<li>Shirt is high to mid calf in length, and split up the side to the upper thigh. It isn't particularly full, and has loose sleeve, and a wide but plain neckline.</li>
<li>He's wearing one black shoe, rather rough and with a seam up the back.</li>
<li>Short hair. Face not visible.</li>
</ul>
<li>5; Sheep shearer. Based on his clothing, I suspect he is a wealthier farmer, and I personally quite like his outfit.</li>
<ul>
<li>Black "scholars" cap; the type with the square top. Could be knit, or could be seamed. The cross on top is obvious, and the flap just barely covers the ears.</li>
<li>Coat is red and bulky. No obvious opening, and sleeves are quite loose. The cuffs are turned back to show a lightish blue lining. No shoulder seam is visible.</li>
<li>An undergarment is visible at his right wrist, but it is skin-tight and black...can't extrapolate anything else.</li>
<li>Green apron! Looks like a simple square or rectangle, with the corners tied in the back.</li>
<li>Dark grey hosen, probably full. Fit is quite good.</li>
<li>BROWN shoes. Fit is also fairly good, fastening with single toggle on each.</li>
<li>Short straight hair, clean shaven.</li>
</ul>
<li>6; ...pig...shaver?</li>
<ul>
<li>Black knit hat, which appears somewhat knobbly. Low dome or skullcap shape, lower in the back, with the back folded up.</li>
<li>Black coat. Fit is not tight, but not bulky either, and a shoulder seam is visible. Sleeves are loose, but do have a taper and are about wrist length. It could be knee length or longer.</li>
<li>Black hosen. Only a little is visible, but the fit is good.</li>
<li>Shoes are a faded black or dark brown. Standard fit and type.</li>
<li>Short hair, clean shaven.</li>
</ul>
<li>7; peasant holder</li>
<ul>
<li>Red hat, probably knit. Low dome with a front flap turned up.</li>
<li>Medium blue sleeveless jerkin on the outside.</li>
<li>Coat is white or cream toned, with loose wrist length sleeves. Lined in moss green, as the right cuff is turned back. No other details visible.</li>
<li>Clean shaven, short hair.</li>
</ul>
<li>8; May be a servant? There is something which could be heraldry on his breast.</li>
<ul>
<li>Black cap. No details visible.</li>
<li>Mustard yellow/brown outer garment. It has tight, wrist length sleeves, deep V neck, and cut on skirt which may be pleated at the back/side. Only appears to be mid-thigh in length.</li>
<li>Clean shaven, short hair.</li>
</ul>
<li>9; Shoveler</li>
<ul>
<li>No hat</li>
<li>Shirt is primary garment; at least knee length (originally...hem is ragged). Sleeves are loose, wrist length. Wide, open neck. Sides are open to the hip--he has it bloused over a belt or rope.</li>
<li>Hosen are well fitted, dark grey, and go all the way up.</li>
<li>Low black shoes of the usual type.</li>
<li>Short hair, slightly stubbly.</li>
</ul>
<li>10; In prayer</li>
<ul>
<li>Thrum hat! Red, and relatively tall. The thrums are mere knobs though.</li>
<li>Light blue coat; sleeves are fairly close to the wrist.</li>
<li>Short straight hair, clean shaven.</li>
</ul>
<li>11</li>
<ul>
<li>Coat is slightly reddish brown, sleeves are full but tapering slightly to the wrist. It appears that it is slightly fitted to the waist, and is only a little longer than hip length.</li>
<li>Upper hosen are dark grey, lined with white where he has a point undone and dangling. Alternately, that could be a bit of untucked shirt. They appear to be about knee length.</li>
<li>Lower hosen or stockings are the colour of old hay.</li>
<li>Low black shoes.</li>
<li>Short messy hair, cleanshaven.</li>
</ul>
<li>12; Butcher</li>
<ul>
<li>Black hat, probably fairly low with a slight brim.</li>
<li>Lilac/grey garment. Fit is fairly close, and sleeves are tight and barely wrist length.</li>
<li>Hosen are black.</li>
<li>Low shoes, with tying closures.</li>
</ul>
<li>13; Hand Fisher</li>
<ul>
<li>Mustard yellow garment, which is relatively close fitting. Sleeves are wide and slightly longer than the elbows. </li>
<li>Headband of tied cloth. Huh.</li>
<li>Hair is still shorter, but definitely shaggy, and he has an unkempt beard.</li>
</ul>
<li>14; Hot Seat Soldier</li>
<ul>
<li>light brown doublet, only waist length. Body is fitted fairly close, but still mostly unstructured. Sleeves are long (to the thumb base) and open cuffed. Hosen are pointed to it, in 8-10 (my guess, based on spacing) places.</li>
<li>A close hood in darker olive brown is worn underneath his helmet. The mantel for this is pointed in the back, at least.</li>
<li>Full hosen in black, pointed to the doublet. The points are a light colour.</li>
<li>Clean shaven </li>
<li>Low boots/shoes, black. </li>
</ul>
<li>15; Bandaged window dude.</li>
<ul>
<li>Red skull cap, heavily worn.</li>
<li>Outer coat an odd bluish/greenish grey. Fastened at the throat, but open down the front. Sleeves are loose and barely taper.</li>
<li>Under that, a rather ugly yellowish brown garment. No details visible other than it may have a small standing collar and is at least hip length.</li>
<li>Short hair, clean shaven.</li>
</ul>
<li>16; Arbalist </li>
<ul>
<li>Tall knit cap with a rolled up brim. It may have the tiny knob-like thrums. Colour is chestnut brown.</li>
<li>Medium blue outer garment with quite loose sleeves, which do taper to the wrist.</li>
</ul>
<li>17; Fiddler</li>
<ul>
<li>Chestnut brown coat, sleeves are blousy but close to the wrist. Only comes to the upper thigh in length. It appears to be moderately close fitting.</li>
<li>Hosen are red. </li>
<li>Shaggy hair, unshaven.</li>
</ul>
<li>18; Donkey Tackler</li>
<ul>
<li>Pale blue doublet, waist length. Sleeves are loose, with some taper.</li>
<li>White shirt visible where the doublet pulled up.</li>
<li>Hosen are almost skin tone tan. Full hosen, stuffed codpiece is visible.</li>
<li>High black shoes.</li>
<li>Slightly longer hair, clean shaven. </li>
</ul>
<li>19; Packer</li>
<ul>
<li>Red knit hat with ear flaps.</li>
<li>Doublet in blue/grey, waist length. Sleeves appear to be long, but not super full. </li>
<li>A shirt is visible at the waist. </li>
<li>I can't tell if he is wearing hosen, or mooning the door...</li>
<li>He is carrying a bundle wrapped in cloth and strapped around his shoulders.</li>
<li>Clean shaven, I think.</li>
</ul>
<li>20; Tower Rider</li>
<ul>
<li>Fairly shapeless low brown hat.</li>
<li>Holding what I suspect is a stolen woman's cloak.</li>
<li>Coat is closely fitted and red. Sleeves are closer to the wrist, there is a waist seam, and at least a few pleats in the skirt--a couple at each side, at least. Length is barely to the thigh. The front is unfastened except at the very top.</li>
<li>Charcoal grey hosen. They appear to be not quite as tight as some others.</li>
<li>BOOTS. He's wearing black knee high boots with the tops folded down to reveal a brown lining. This is extremely exciting to me.</li>
<li>Short hair, clean shaven.</li>
</ul>
<li>21; Basketteer. His clothing is antiquated.</li>
<ul>
<li>Capuchon hat--the style from the previous century consisting of a torse and floppy mantle top. It is black.</li>
<li>Outer garment is dark blue, and closely fitted. Sleeves are wrist length and tight to the wrist. It appears to be buttoning down the front, and I cannot see how long it is.</li>
</ul>
<li>22; The window leaner</li>
<ul>
<li>Close black hat with the bottom rolled up.</li>
<li>Grey outer garment, sleeves have only a little taper.</li>
<li>Short, curly hair, clean shaven.</li>
</ul>
<li>23; Log Dragger</li>
<ul>
<li>Light brown hat of uncertain style.</li>
<li>Outer garment only thigh length, and has pleats starting in the middle of the back. Medium grey/blue.</li>
<li>He seems to have a matching hood.</li>
<li>Full hosen of red.</li>
<li>Low black shoes.</li>
</ul>
<li>24; ....critter...watcher. I seriously don't know what those animals are...</li>
<ul>
<li>Low faded black hat, almost a shallow bell shape.</li>
<li>Brown doublet; waist length with full sleeves</li>
<li>Full hosen in a slightly darker brown. You can see some points hanging down, unfastened. Stuffed codpiece is visible.</li>
<li>Low black shoes.</li>
<li>Shirt is visible at the waist.</li>
<li>Short hair, maybe a little stubble.</li>
</ul>
<li>25; Goose Dude</li>
<ul>
<li>Brown doublet, with a single fastener across the middle of the chest. Only waist length. Full sleeves close to the wrist.</li>
<li>Medium blue full hosen, stuffed codpiece visible.</li>
<li>White shirt. </li>
<li>Low black shoes.</li>
<li>Almost looks like a pageboy haircut, and maybe not clean shaven. Too small to tell.</li>
</ul>
<li>26; Wading fan guy. Some excellent details on this one, especially of the hosen seams.</li>
<ul>
<li>Medium brown doublet, closely fitted body with a front opening; no visible fastenings though. There may be a short collar. Sleeves are moderately loose, but closer to the wrist.</li>
<li>Shirt showing at the waist, tucked into the hosen.</li>
<li>Full hosen in red. You can clearly see the shape of the codpiece as well as the seams. The points are also visible.</li>
<li>Black hat with a rolled style brim in the water behind him.</li>
<li>Black Hip waders. He is wearing thigh high boots! Fit is fairly loose above the knee.</li>
<li>Short hair, clean shaven.</li>
</ul>
<li>27; Eel wrangler</li>
<ul>
<li>Doublet of sky blue, no visible collar; waist length. Sleeves are loose, but not extravagent and only wrist length.</li>
<li>Green hosen!</li>
<li>Black shoes.</li>
<li>Short hair, clean shaven.</li>
</ul>
<li>28; Leatherworker. (Good example of the knife used, here).</li>
<ul>
<li>Dark green outer garment. No visible details, other than long sleeves close at the wrist.</li>
<li>Black skullcap.</li>
</ul>
<li>29; Dude falling off the bench</li>
<ul>
<li>Loosely fitted brown hat. Not sure how it stays on his head.</li>
<li>White/cream doublet. Waist length, and open down the front. No collar. Sleeves are loose, with a good amount of taper. There appears to be a waistband fastening, if those aren't eyelets.</li>
<li>White/cream full hosen.</li>
<li>Black low boots, tops may be slightly rolled down.</li>
<li>Short hair, clean shaven.</li>
</ul>
<li>30; Tree Cuddler</li>
<ul>
<li>White outer garment; hip length and loosely fitted. Sleeves are rather large but do appear to taper to the cuff.</li>
<li>No hosen, shirt is visible, and clearly comes to the mid calf in the front, and a few inches longer in the back.</li>
<li>Black leather belt; buckle not visible.</li>
<li>Red purse of the type which has a small buttoning lid.</li>
<li>Low black shoes.</li>
<li>Short hair, clean shaven.</li>
</ul>
<li>31; Probably drunk?</li>
<ul>
<li>Red knit coif type hat with earflaps.</li>
<li>Only visible garment is his shirt, which appears standard, and may have a boat neck.</li>
</ul>
<li>32; Oven singer</li>
<ul>
<li>Medium blue/grey coat. Sleeves are quite loose, as well as being overly long. I am guessing it is probably knee length. May have a tiny standing collar.</li>
<li>On his head is a tightly tied bandana type thing?</li>
</ul>
<li>33; Porridge waster</li>
<ul>
<li>Long outer garment in green. Sleeves quite loose but not particularly long. May be ankle length.</li>
<li>Short hair, clean shaven.</li>
</ul>
<li>34; Axe searcher</li>
<ul>
<li>Long outer garment in red. Sleeves are fairly long, and loose. You can clearly see that the skirt is pleated into a waist seam around the back. Front opening.</li>
<li>Black cap of some kind.</li>
<li>Low boots.</li>
</ul>
<li>35; Peasant on fire</li>
<ul>
<li>Loose upper garment in grey, mid-thigh length.</li>
<li>Darker grey full hosen.</li>
<li>Low black shoes.</li>
<li>I really like the style of the house behind him.</li>
</ul>
<li>36; Rich Guy</li>
<ul>
<li>Black hat, which appears to be broad brimmed.</li>
<li>Outer garment is mouse brown and sleeveless. Calf length. The waist seam rises slightly at the center back, and has the skirt pleated into it at that point--hem is still even, though; pleats appear to be rounded. Probably front opening.</li>
<li>Next garment shows as massively poofy sleeves. They almost appear to be a shot silk. Lower arm appears to be closely fitted.</li>
<li>Hosen show only a little beneath the hem, dark grey. </li>
<li>Low black shoes.</li>
</ul>
<li>37; Time-traveler. His clothing is more specific to 100 years earlier and is only being included for completion.</li>
<ul>
<li> Blue capuchon hat, with a small gold brooch at the center.</li>
<li>He's wearing a houppelande derivative .... Old gold in colour, and lined with a grey fur. Short slit at the front neck, knee length, and modest sleeves pleated into cuffs.</li>
<li>Black belt with buckle.</li>
<li>Black purse, of the top buttoning type.</li>
<li>Black hosen.</li>
<li>Faded black low boots.</li></ul></ul></ul><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9aVngSqRauGnXku9gt8l9BjiVl2F0eGxPO1XweB0SyY6SkQvnX-jpW9ptRE4nSkuXgCe8Ytz2GOOjPjHz4mIpHkrfygMgcoaoaiRAjoLG_-zuiJSWc2T5B74RumxhiqYd6Y65dVnXxCK5Riqe9xS6qNycvDMY0ZU41cTLSLGuCmeIIP7rWXCy0fB6xWo/s2000/Labeled%20theFightbetweenCarnivalandLent1559%20-%20Copy%20-%20Copy.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1418" data-original-width="2000" height="227" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9aVngSqRauGnXku9gt8l9BjiVl2F0eGxPO1XweB0SyY6SkQvnX-jpW9ptRE4nSkuXgCe8Ytz2GOOjPjHz4mIpHkrfygMgcoaoaiRAjoLG_-zuiJSWc2T5B74RumxhiqYd6Y65dVnXxCK5Riqe9xS6qNycvDMY0ZU41cTLSLGuCmeIIP7rWXCy0fB6xWo/s320/Labeled%20theFightbetweenCarnivalandLent1559%20-%20Copy%20-%20Copy.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><p></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><ul><ul>
</ul>
</ul>
<li> The Fight between Carnival and Lent, 1559. Also somewhat allegorical, but not enough to be thrown out completely. If nothing else, the colour combinations should be of use.</li>
<ul><ul><ul>
<li><a href="https://www.bl.uk/collection-items/the-fight-between-carnival-and-lent" target="_blank">https://www.bl.uk/collection-items/the-fight-between-carnival-and-lent</a> </li>
</ul>
</ul>
<li>1</li>
<ul>
<li>Long, pink coat. Sleeves are close, and it is front opening with no visible closures--hook and eye? Sleeves are lined with a dark blue material, and skirts with a white. The garment is almost ankle length.</li>
<li>Brown boots, nearly knee high. </li>
<li>I can't tell if he is wearing hosen or is bare-legged.</li>
</ul>
<li>2</li>
<ul>
<li>Wearing an oversized pigrim type hat, complete with spoon</li>
<li>White, gownlike garment with loose sleeves.</li>
<li>Huge open mouthed, grey purse--trapezoidal and pleated to the frame.</li>
<li>Sky blue hosen.</li>
<li>Low black shoes</li>
</ul>
<li>3; another fool? He is wearing the same kind of hat as person 1 in the last painting, minus the bobble. He also has the same type of baldric formed of metal medallions.</li>
<ul>
<li>Conical hat in red, yellow, and blue,</li>
<li>Close fitting garment in pale yellow. Shoulder and armscye seams are shown. Sleeves are not tight but not loose either. Front opening, and mid-thigh in length.</li>
<li>White shirt is visible at the wrists, where both body garments are pushed up.</li>
<li>Hunter green hosen.</li>
<li>Low black shoes.</li>
<li>Black (leather) belt, buckle not visible.</li>
<li>Massive purse in red. Appears to be latched framed.</li>
<li>Short hair, short beard but no mustache. </li>
</ul>
<li>4; Barrel rider.</li>
<ul>
<li>Blue capuchon, with very little roll. The simple dags are clearly visible though.</li>
<li>Light blue doublet. Front is clearly laced, probably with rings on the inside. This is probably the "mysterious" invisible closure...just stretched over his corpulency. Doublet is waist length, and supports the hosen. Fit is close, as are the sleeves, and it is lined with a natural coloured fabric.</li>
<li>Red full hosen with codpiece, which are lined in blue.</li>
<li>White shirt.</li>
<li>Low black shoes.</li>
<li>Short hair, champion grade stubble.</li>
</ul>
<li>5</li>
<ul>
<li>Black skull-cap style hat.</li>
<li>Grey/blue thigh length coat. I think I see a waist seam. Sleeves are loose, but well tapered and I believe I see pleats in the sleeve cap.</li>
<li>Light grey or dirty white hosen.</li>
<li>Low black shoes.</li>
</ul>
<li>6; Shovel player</li>
<ul>
<li>Long coat in blue. Sleeves are full, and it is front opening. Ankle length.</li>
<li>Wearing what looks like a tall knit cap in blue, with the bottom slightly rolled up.</li>
<li>Black belt is visible.</li>
<li>Clean shaven.</li>
</ul>
<li>7; 1 legged beggar</li>
<ul>
<li>Blue coif-like cap.</li>
<li>Dirty black garment. Front opening, upper thigh in length. Sleeves aren't particularly full, but don't taper either.</li>
<li>One leg appears to have a black hose. The other is bare where it isn't missing.</li>
<li>Low black shoe. Also, bells on that calf?</li>
</ul>
<li>8; Legless beggar</li>
<ul>
<li>Black hat, deep in the back and folded up in the front.</li>
<li>Pale pink cloak. Probably a semi-circle.</li>
<li>Outer garment is almost knee length, and clearly shows the front opening.</li>
<li>Black belt. </li>
</ul>
<li>9; beggar</li>
<ul>
<li>Aquamarine coif.</li>
<li>Dark brown, Vest-like outer garment which is hip length. There is a slight split in the center back, and it is sleeveless.</li>
<li>Dirty white garment under that, slightly longer. Sleeves are close.</li>
<li>I cannot make sense of what he's wearing on his legs.</li>
</ul>
<li>10; </li>
<ul>
<li>I don't /think/ he's wearing a jumpsuit, but it is possible.</li>
<li>Grey doublet, closely fitted and waist length. Sleeves are also close.</li>
<li>Hood of the same material, closely fitting to the head, and with the mantel having a point all the way to the waist in the back at least.</li>
<li>Trousers of the same material. Yes, trousers. Straight legged, and ankle length.</li>
<li>Black low shoes.</li>
<li>He's carrying some kind of stick implement which is probably job related. Seems to have a metal end.</li>
</ul>
<li>11; Drink Hauler</li>
</ul>
<ul><ul>
<li>Red flat cap.</li>
<li>black jerkin in the old style; with puffed sleeve caps. Possibly a short collar. Mid-thigh in length, with a pleated skirt.</li>
<li>Doublet under that is rich brown and the sleeves seem to be fairly close fitted.</li>
<li>White apron, with ties. </li>
<li>Black hosen.</li>
<li>Low black shoes.</li>
</ul>
<li>12; Jug carrier</li>
<ul>
<li>Black cap, almost looking like it slouches in the front.</li>
<li>Blue outer garment; fairly close fitting, but nothing fancy. Sleeves are likewise close.</li>
<li>Black full hosen.</li>
<li>Black belt, with knife hanging from the back. </li>
<li>Low black shoes.</li>
<li>Short hair.</li>
</ul>
<li>13; Miner (Nope...that is a crossbow).</li>
<ul>
<li>Blue skullcap</li>
<li>Loose black coat, possibly fur lined.</li>
<li>Black hosen,</li>
<li>Low black boots.</li>
<li>Short hair, clean shaven.</li>
</ul>
<li>14; Either a child or a dwarf...still, wearing men's clothing.</li>
<ul>
<li>Dove Grey Robe-like outer garment with the pleated back skirts. Sleeves are loose, and loose at the wrist.</li>
<li>Nothing else visible.</li>
</ul>
<li>15; Background dancer</li>
<ul>
<li>What appears to be a black flat cap. Possibly a black coif under it...I see strings.</li>
<li>Brown doublet, fit decently close, upper thigh in length, front opening. Sleeves only wrist length, and close there.</li>
<li>A bit of white at the collar could be a ruff, but probably is just the shirt? </li>
<li>Hosen appear patterned like diamonds? Is this evidence for plaid hosen?</li>
<li>Low black shoes.</li>
</ul>
<li>16; Background dancer</li>
<ul>
<li>Red, bowl-like cap.</li>
<li>Lighter blue doublet, closely fitted, and with thigh length skirts. Sleeves are tight.</li>
<li>Red hosen.</li>
<li>Low black shoes.</li>
</ul>
<li>17; Hopefully a Scarecrow...</li>
<ul>
<li>Waist length doublet of greyish brown. Front opening.</li>
<li>Black full hosen.</li>
<li>Low black shoes.</li>
</ul>
<li>18; Bagpiper</li>
<ul>
<li>Bluish green hat, which may have short knobble thrums.</li>
<li>Pale green doublet. Waist length and with fairly straight sleeves.</li>
<li>Either a rather short shirt, or a similarly fitted underlayer of white, not tucked into the hosen.</li>
<li>Dark, dark, brown hosen.</li>
<li>Low black shoes.</li>
<li>Short hair, clean shaven.</li>
</ul>
<li>19; Cauldron tosser</li>
<ul>
<li>Black flat cap. </li>
<li>Front opening jerkin of dark grey. Sleeves are close at the wrist. I think the center back is pleated.</li>
<li>Dark brown hosen, well fitted.</li>
<li>Low black shoes.</li>
<li>Short hair, clean shaven.</li>
</ul>
<li>20; Cauldron wearer</li>
<ul>
<li>Hip length jacket in slightly pinkish cream. I believe it is open-fronted and you can see hints of his shirt at the throat. Sleeves fairly straight.</li>
<li>Black hosen.</li>
<li>Rope? belt, with frame purse hanging from it.</li>
<li>Low black shoes.</li>
</ul>
<li>21; Escort. (And is the dress of the lady next to him made from Frieze?)</li>
<ul>
<li>Broad brimmed, square topped hat. May be straw, may not. </li>
<li>Calf length of dusty lilac. Sleeves are close fitted, but not tight cuffed. Because of whatever he is hauling in his back, the shape isn't apparent.</li>
<li>Carrying a sword, and baselard dagger ("I" shaped hilt).</li>
<li>Black hosen.</li>
<li>Low black shoes.</li>
</ul>
<li>22; Hauling /something/.</li>
<ul>
<li>Bright blue skullcap, with slashing at the front.</li>
<li>Dusky green doublet, fit may be too small for him, and cuffs are ragged.</li>
<li>Standard appearing shirt.</li>
<li>Red hosen. Potentially, he is wearing two pairs of hosen as the worn out knee of the red show blue (and then skin).</li>
<li>Short hair, clean shaven.</li>
</ul>
<li>23; Flag waver</li>
<ul>
<li>Black Short "Monmouth" hat, with knobbly thrums.</li>
<li>Apparently a thigh length jerkin of chocolate brown. Sleeve only wrist length and fairly close at the wrist. But a seafoam blue lining is visible at the left wrist.</li>
<li>White apron; apparently has a waist tie and is likely just a rectangle.</li>
<li>Black ring mouth purse.</li>
<li>Black hosen.</li>
<li>Low black shoes</li>
<li>Short hair, clean shaven.</li>
</ul>
<li>other 23 (because I apparently cannot count). Cauldron Catcher</li>
<ul>
<li>Red cap with tiny ear flaps.</li>
<li>Black jerkin. Fit is close, and it appears to be barely thigh length.</li>
<li>Black hosen</li>
<li>Low black shoes.</li>
<li>White apron which covers to low calf.</li>
<li>Short hair, clean shaven.</li>
</ul>
<li>24; Top whipper</li>
<ul>
<li>Red cap, or coif.</li>
<li>Long yellow outer garment. Sleeves are barely wrist length. Back of the garment is pleated at the waist and is barely calf length.</li>
<li>Wearing a green apron, clearly tying.</li>
<li>Hint of shirt seen at back of the neck.</li>
<li>Brown hosen,</li>
<li>Low black shoes.</li>
</ul>
<li>25</li>
<ul>
<li>Black, flat topped cap with earflaps.</li>
<li>Outer garment has two piece sleeves, with major poof on the top section. Skirts are pleated in the back and barely knee length. A front opening is visible.</li>
<li>Black hosen.</li>
<li>Low black shoes.</li></ul></ul></ul><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgW3EDhssJJBflO-aahGlf6Jt1VuVlaSgQSMzVitMds_-E8xiCvhwmcWBnIo1W5VmE7XU8K4fdP3tTQyONajNBhpI0yfsfi0zTNyvBxRw5ztmDxSfaAqTuBdZXSJFnK5rCDVR5LP9UBw0IYycAu8peDpbmbYIOM1MrjAUTVMQOUmRro7RryV__Wz1KRV6E/s6567/Labeled%20Pieter_Bruegel_the_Elder_-_Childrens%20Games%20-%20Copy.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4770" data-original-width="6567" height="232" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgW3EDhssJJBflO-aahGlf6Jt1VuVlaSgQSMzVitMds_-E8xiCvhwmcWBnIo1W5VmE7XU8K4fdP3tTQyONajNBhpI0yfsfi0zTNyvBxRw5ztmDxSfaAqTuBdZXSJFnK5rCDVR5LP9UBw0IYycAu8peDpbmbYIOM1MrjAUTVMQOUmRro7RryV__Wz1KRV6E/s320/Labeled%20Pieter_Bruegel_the_Elder_-_Childrens%20Games%20-%20Copy.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><p></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><ul><ul>
</ul>
</ul>
<li> Children's Games, 1560. While most of the occupants of the painting are children, their clothing does not appear to be significantly different from adult fashion.</li>
<ul><ul><ul>
<li> <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Children%27s_Games_(Bruegel)" target="_blank">https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Children%27s_Games_(Bruegel)</a></li>
</ul>
</ul>
<li>1</li>
<ul>
<li>Russet outer garment, which comes to the calf. There is a back slit partway up. No evident pleats. Sleeves are relatively loose, and open at the wrists.</li>
</ul>
<li>2</li>
<ul>
<li>Mouse grey coat, front opening. Pleats evident, starting at the side, knife pleating towards the back. Overall length is a bit longer than the knee, and sleeves are simple, only slightly longer than the arm, and taper to the wrist.</li>
<li>Undergarment of lighter grey peaking out at the front gap of the outer garment.</li>
<li>Red hosen.</li>
<li>Low black shoes.</li>
</ul>
<li>3</li>
<ul>
<li>Grey cloche style hat, same colour as the doublet. </li>
<li>Doublet in grey, no details evident, but does not appear to be longer than the waist.</li>
<li>Slate blue full hosen.</li>
<li>Black shoes, about ankle height.</li>
</ul>
<li>4</li>
<ul>
<li>White coif. </li>
<li>Grey waist length doublet, front closing. Closures not visible. Sleeves are wrist length and have a slit about 4 fingers long.</li>
<li>Full hosen are the same shade as the doublet and fairly well fitted. There is a codpiece, and points are visible (unlaced).</li>
<li>Black shoes.</li>
</ul>
<li>5</li>
<ul>
<li>Sky blue outer garment with no real fitting evident. Length is somewhere between mid-thigh and knee. There is a center back slit going up nearly to hip level. Sleeves correct length for the bent arms.</li>
<li>Black hosen?</li>
<li>Black shoes?</li>
</ul>
<li>6</li>
<ul>
<li>Low black cap with rolled up brim</li>
<li>Pale dusty plum outer kaftan, which is nearly ankle length. Front opening, and at least one point is shown to fasten. Sleeves are a bit longer than needed.</li>
<li>There appears to be some kind of long, loose, garment in a pale colour underneath. Just peaking out at the opening of the other</li>
<li>Hosen not visible.</li>
<li>Black shoes.</li>
</ul>
<li>7</li>
<ul>
<li>Black, cloaklike garment with the back hem pulled up over the head as a hood. The inside is a toffee brown.</li>
<li>He is holding a sky blue bundle of cloth.</li>
<li>Primary garment is probably knee length and possibly pleated in the back. </li>
<li>Red hosen.</li>
<li>Black shoes.</li>
</ul>
<li>8</li>
<ul>
<li>Cloak is being worn the same way, but is blue, with a red inside.</li>
<li>White upper garment; I am fairly sure it is not a shirt. Barely knee length.</li>
<li>Medium brown hosen are visible at the knee. </li>
<li>Black BOOTs coming to just below the knee.</li>
</ul>
<li>9</li>
<ul>
<li>Short, yellow, slightly messy hair.</li>
<li>Calf length blue outer garment. No signs of fitting or pleats, and front is open. Sleeves appear to be slightly longer than needed.</li>
<li>Pale green hosen, probably full.</li>
<li>Low black shoes </li>
</ul>
<li>10</li>
<ul>
<li>Waist length doublet in a pale tan. Sleeves are barely long enough.</li>
<li>Black full hosen, seams visible running up the back of the leg.</li>
<li>Black shoes.</li>
<li>White shirt tucked into the hosen.</li>
</ul>
<li>11</li>
<ul>
<li>Skirted jerkin in an ugly pale yellow/brown. Sleeves are black, and appear to be a separate garment. </li>
<li>Black hosen, falling down.</li>
<li>Shirt shows clearly that it is barely knee length, open up to the hip, and not particularly full.</li>
<li>Black shoes.</li>
</ul>
<li>12</li>
<ul>
<li>Low knit hat in red, slight brim turned up. </li>
<li>Sky blue outer garment, possibly pleated in the back. Bottom edge is white; may be a slightly longer garment beneath it.</li>
<li>Hosen are dark.</li>
<li>Black low boots.</li>
</ul>
<li>13 (Tree climber)</li>
<ul>
<li>Low, black knit hat. Close fitting and slight brim turned up.</li>
<li>Waist length doublet of dun brown. </li>
<li>Black full hosen.</li>
<li>White shirt.</li>
<li>Black shoes</li>
</ul>
<li>14 (Top flogger)</li>
<ul>
<li>Ankle length outer garment in slightly russetty brown. Front opening. Sleeves are full.</li>
<li>Knee length garment under that. No details visible.</li>
<li>Narrow black belt with something dangling from it.</li>
<li>Coif type hat in a muddy brown.</li>
</ul>
<li>15</li>
<ul>
<li>Similar outer garment to #14, but in a sky blue.</li>
<li>Black stocking cap.</li>
</ul>
<li>16</li>
<ul>
<li>Madder red hat. May be a flat cap.</li>
<li>Red doublet.</li>
<li>Light blue full hosen.</li>
<li>Low black shoes.</li>
</ul>
<li>17</li>
<ul>
<li>Black cap with split brim</li>
<li>Loose hip length jacket, sleeves are barely wrist length. Pale green.</li>
<li>Full hosen of the same green.</li>
<li>Low black shoes.</li>
</ul>
<li>18 (two)</li>
<ul>
<li>Hip length black jackets, pleated skirts in the back. Front fastening shows two or three toggles and gapes slightly.</li>
<li>Under garment of light grey showing through the gap. </li>
<li>Red hat, and black hat.</li>
<li>Mouse grey full hosen.</li>
<li>Black shoes.</li>
</ul>
<li>19</li>
<ul>
<li>Appears to be a straw hat.</li>
<li>Grey/blue outer garment, bare knee length. I believe it is a crossover jerkin. Sleeves are wrist length and fairly close fitted. Signs of pleasts in the back skirt are visible.</li>
<li>Black hosen.</li>
</ul>
<li>20</li>
<ul>
<li>Grey doublet, with loose sleeves. May be pull-over with a pin or button closing the neck.</li>
<li>White full hosen. Modest codpiece is visible.</li>
<li>Shirt visible at the waist between hose and doublet.</li>
</ul>
<li>21 (fell over)</li>
<ul>
<li>Black cap, rolled brim</li>
<li>Black doublet, sleeves moderately loose and a touch long.</li>
<li>Mixed grey? full hosen.</li>
<li>Low black boots.</li>
</ul>
<li>22</li>
<ul>
<li>Knee length black outer garment, fairly heavily pleated skirts. No collar visible.</li>
<li>Black hosen (slightly paler).</li>
<li>Black shoes</li>
</ul>
<li>23 (hobby horse guy)</li>
<ul>
<li>Black cap with the brim down.</li>
<li>Shapeless black outer garment,, knee length.</li>
<li>Shirt is visible.</li>
<li>Bare legs (with black shoes).</li>
</ul>
<li>24</li>
<ul>
<li>Pale grey doublet, fastened only at the neck and the waist. Barely waist length. Sleeves loose but fairly short. Garment looks too small for him.</li>
<li>White shirt showing.</li>
<li>Red full hose, codpiece barely fastened.</li>
<li>Low black shoes, ties are visible.</li>
</ul>
<li>25</li>
<ul>
<li>Calf length red outer garment, lined with blue. Separate skirts, with some pleats on the side and back.</li>
<li>Narrow black belt visible,</li>
<li>Black full hose.</li>
<li>Black shoes.</li>
</ul>
<li>26</li>
<ul>
<li>Black knit cap. </li>
<li>Blue doublet, waist length. Armscye appears to be quite loose.</li>
<li>Red full hose. A couple of loose points are visible.</li>
<li>Black shoes.</li>
</ul>
<li>27</li>
<ul>
<li>Pale grey/blue thigh length garment. Doesn't appear to have pleats, but does have enough fullness at the back to give the appearance of. Sleeves are slightly long.</li>
<li>Grey full hosen.</li>
<li>Black shoes.</li>
</ul>
<li>28</li>
<ul>
<li>Red knit cap.</li>
<li>Pale blue doublet. One or two fastenings down the front. Upper sleeve is clearly slightly puffed, with a seam at elbow level and a closer fitting forearm.</li>
<li>Dun full hosen.</li>
<li>Black shoes.</li>
</ul>
<li>29. Not much visible details</li>
<ul>
<li>Appears to have black close fitted doublet,</li>
<li>and black hosen.</li>
</ul>
<li>30</li>
<ul>
<li>Calf length brown (brocade? There appears to be some pattern there), outer garment, fairly loose. Lined with blue cloth.</li>
<li>Belted</li>
<li>Red hosen.</li>
<li>Black shoes</li>
</ul>
<li>31</li>
<ul>
<li>Red waist length doublet, may be lined in green.</li>
<li>Dun full hosen with codpiece.</li>
<li>Black shoes</li>
</ul>
<li>32</li>
<ul>
<li>No outer garment, just a shirt I believe.</li>
<li>Light aqua full hosen.</li>
<li>Black Shoes</li>
</ul>
<li>33</li>
<ul>
<li>Dusty black doublet</li>
<li>Black full hosen, appearing to be a looser fit.</li>
<li>Black shoes.</li>
</ul>
<li>34</li>
<ul>
<li>Medium Blue doublet. Again, only appears to have a couple widely spaced fastenings.</li>
<li>Black full hosen with codpiece.</li>
<li>Black shoes</li>
</ul>
<li>35; I think it's a dude?</li>
<ul>
<li>Long red outer garment, waist seam fully pleated with knife pleats running towards the back. Sleeves are quite loose. No collar visible, and front opening is not well fastened.</li>
</ul>
<li>36</li>
<ul>
<li>Red knit cap. </li>
<li>Thigh length sky blue garment. Appears to be fairly unfitted.</li>
<li>Narrow black belt....and a kidney purse is clearly visible! </li>
<li>Full hosen in white.</li>
<li>Black shoes</li>
</ul>
<li>37</li>
<ul>
<li>Black doublet</li>
<li>Dun full hosen, codpiece visible.</li>
<li>Satchel of some brown material, fairly large.</li>
<li>Black shoes</li>
</ul>
<li>38</li>
<ul>
<li>Shirt, no outer garment. Sleeve appear fairly loose, but cuffs not visible. Bosom slit is moderately deep, but being held closed. No visible collar.</li>
<li>Red full hosen.</li>
<li>Black shoes.</li>
</ul>
<li>39 (Stilt walker)</li>
<ul>
<li>Black doublet, again only closed at neck and waist.</li>
<li>Russet full hosen with codpiece.</li>
<li>Black shoes?</li>
</ul>
<li>40</li>
<ul>
<li>Pale blue doublet </li>
<li>Red full hosen</li>
<li>Black shoes</li>
</ul>
<li>41</li>
<ul>
<li>Black low hat with broad down angled brim</li>
<li>Russet brown outer garment. Knee length, and pleated behind hip level. Sleeves are full and slightly long. Skirts appear to be open at center front, but no body opening is visible.</li>
<li>Mixed blue/grey hosen.</li>
<li>Black shoes</li>
</ul>
<li>42</li>
<ul>
<li>Black hat, brim turned up. </li>
<li>Loose coat of faded black. Little longer than knee length, and sleeves are extra long. Appears to have a short center back vent.</li>
</ul>
<li>43</li>
<ul>
<li>Low black hat with fairly narrow brim.</li>
<li>Medium grey, hip length outer garment. Sleeves appear to be a bit loose. There may be a sewn on skirt.</li>
<li>Dusky blue/grey full hosen.</li>
<li>Low black shoes.</li>
</ul>
<li>44</li>
<ul>
<li>hip length upper body garment in brown.</li>
<li>Full length hosen of black/blue.</li>
<li>black shoes</li>
</ul>
<li>45</li>
<ul>
<li>Red crossover outer garment. Calf length, sleeves slightly long. Front opening is crossover at the waist, giving a slightly double breasted garment, but there is no crossover below the waist. Some signs of pleats towards the back waist.</li>
<li>Inner garment of dirty white, about knee length, no visible front opening.</li>
<li>Whiteish hosen.</li>
<li>Black shoes.</li>
</ul>
<li>46</li>
<ul>
<li>Pink doublet.</li>
<li>Dun full hosen</li>
<li>Black shoes.</li>
</ul>
<li>47</li>
<ul>
<li>Black hip length doublet, appearing to be fitted to the waist. 2-3 toggles closing the front resulting in gaps. Sleeves barely long enough.</li>
<li>Shirt is visible in the front.</li>
<li>Medium grey full hosen.</li>
<li>Black shoes.</li>
</ul>
<li>48</li>
<ul>
<li>Black hat with brim, almost like a shallow cloche.</li>
<li>Calf length red robe-like coat, lined with blue. Upper sleeve quite wide.</li>
<li>Dun/dirty white full hosen.</li>
<li>Black shoes</li>
</ul>
<li>49; may be female and cross dressing?</li>
<ul>
<li>Blue skullcap or coif, worn crooked.</li>
<li>Ankle length crossover coat, V neck double breasted and open below.</li>
<li>Shirt is longer than usual.</li>
<li>Short stockings, in dirty white.</li>
</ul>
<li>50</li>
<ul>
<li>Black pillbox type hat with something like white paper stuck in the brim.</li>
<li>Ankle length black coat.</li>
<li>Simple long apron in white.</li>
<li>Mules instead of shoes!</li></ul></ul></ul><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaLaOc-AdUsMPFCN0_e2RN6ltrbajtO9TgblWh9BYCBDlRm465lyMBBg-6jtwvIaf9th6UZDNAQkLsdFnI1Nn70VNaHXg-pfrC2BAvkpah2I1Du6rBAZWpQyUpxmPuTAqeB5I4mgQ_tJL7acM-R7m6bkXfBiql8EdzJ8TwJnv0pu7bky2VGorpbnzgDCI/s2000/Pieter_Bruegel_de_Oude_-_De_val_van_Icarus%20-%20Copy.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1278" data-original-width="2000" height="204" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaLaOc-AdUsMPFCN0_e2RN6ltrbajtO9TgblWh9BYCBDlRm465lyMBBg-6jtwvIaf9th6UZDNAQkLsdFnI1Nn70VNaHXg-pfrC2BAvkpah2I1Du6rBAZWpQyUpxmPuTAqeB5I4mgQ_tJL7acM-R7m6bkXfBiql8EdzJ8TwJnv0pu7bky2VGorpbnzgDCI/s320/Pieter_Bruegel_de_Oude_-_De_val_van_Icarus%20-%20Copy.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><p></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>Landscape with the Fall of Icarus, 1560 (<a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Landscape_with_the_Fall_of_Icarus" target="_blank">https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Landscape_with_the_Fall_of_Icarus</a>) This image shows three working class men, one of which is ploughing the terrace, and in the background there is a shepherd.</li><ul><li>Plougher; short black hair. He is at 3/4 profile, angled so you cannot see his front.<br /></li><ul><li>Relatively shapeless black or grey (perhaps faded black)knit hat. It appears to have some kind of brim with the top falling over it, and a turn up at the back half.</li><li>Loose jerkin in grey; the skirt is separate and knife or box pleated fairly full. Front not visible. Neckline and armscyes are extremely wide.</li><li>Red doublet with wide sleeves. Slight gathering visible at shoulders. No collar.</li><li>Something white is visible covering the front but not back of the thigh. This could be some kind of apron, or an untucked shirt. The latter makes more sense to me(?).</li><li>Brown full hosen.</li><li>Usual black shoes.</li></ul><li>Shepherd</li><ul><li>Black Hat appears to be felted and has a brim. It's hanging from his neck.<br /></li><li>Blue-grey doublet, waist length. Loose sleeves.</li><li>I believe he is wearing partial hosen, only coming to the knee...essentially breeches albeit with a codpiece.. Sheep's Black?</li><li>Stockings are matching.</li><li>Standard shoes in black.</li><li>He does have a shepherds budget or purse around his waist, as well as what may be a leather bottle. He also has a spear.<br /></li><li>Shirt is visible at the front waist, just above the codpiece.</li></ul><li>Fisherman</li><ul><li>Black cap with a narrow brim</li><li>Underneath, a red coif</li><li>White jacket to the thigh with rough cut. No extra gathers visible, and there is a small slit at the back.</li><li>Black belt, with a knife hanging.</li><li>Brown hosen. </li></ul></ul></ul><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoRTm2gqA1cGQcdgkVfeAtxgSQv1-kqhf_4d4bgrOFkkZC7IyrATBIkYD4xPaawEvgC_bDJKaEqEebjfrefcJXTUFpw55z6BTgVRDXXDJBc-HP9ZUgQgMgPQdZZzK7zenJYSCD5AGBVSLhZsv-cBkb3uUOoUHJzl4OWafHA2LFEgYr73CQ-DhsVlKhOms/s3641/Pieter_Bruegel_der_Aeltere_-_Der_Triumph_des_Todes_-_mit_Rahmen_II,%20Labeled%20-%20Copy.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2781" data-original-width="3641" height="244" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoRTm2gqA1cGQcdgkVfeAtxgSQv1-kqhf_4d4bgrOFkkZC7IyrATBIkYD4xPaawEvgC_bDJKaEqEebjfrefcJXTUFpw55z6BTgVRDXXDJBc-HP9ZUgQgMgPQdZZzK7zenJYSCD5AGBVSLhZsv-cBkb3uUOoUHJzl4OWafHA2LFEgYr73CQ-DhsVlKhOms/s320/Pieter_Bruegel_der_Aeltere_-_Der_Triumph_des_Todes_-_mit_Rahmen_II,%20Labeled%20-%20Copy.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><p></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>The Triumph of Death, 1562. (<a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Triumph_of_Death" target="_blank">https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Triumph_of_Death</a>). While allegorical, much of the clothing of the dead and dying is portrayed normally. Towards the right side, the fashion gets odd, reminding me of fashion over 100 years earlier. Additional items of interest; a distaff, a pair of fashionable soldiers in Landsknect fashion, a jousting lance, and a folding backgammon set (I believe). There is also a pilgrim which shows his accoutrements fairly well.<br /></li><ul><li>1; being taken away by skeletons. Goatee? He is background, so hard to see.<br /></li><ul><li>Black hat, appearing to be relatively low with an upturned rim all round.</li><li>Long rust coloured garment. Almost tunic-like</li><li>Dark blue, almost black hosen</li></ul><li>2; Climbing onto the dock. Also background<br /></li><ul><li>Black hat with a brim and round top</li><li>Blueish upper garment, moderately loose sleeves. It appears to be thigh length, and slit in the back.</li><li>Red full hosen.</li><li>Black shoes<br /></li></ul><li>3; We have several people gathered in a net and not well visible. Three are clearly of African ancestry and of various shades.</li><ul><li>Upper body garment appears to be much the same on all three, doublet, moderately fitted, ungathered. Turquoise, dark blue, almost a sea green, and a dun brown.</li><li>There are a pair of legs sticking up in red hosen, which I'm not sure who belong to.</li><li>Mr. Turquoise appears to be wearing black hosen, assuming those are his legs.</li></ul><li>4; Another body in the net, but more clearly visible as he's near the top of the pile.</li><ul><li>Dun Grey doublet, waist length, and fastened only at the waist with points</li><li>Pale red full hosen</li><li>Black shoes. </li></ul><li>5; A Pilgrim en dishabile and having his throat slit. Useful info, but not to be included on the survey</li><ul><li>A broad brimmed hat covered in pilgrims tokens is visible.</li><li>Long staff with two knobs is visible, with what appears to be a gourd bottle.</li><li>Leather bottle.</li><li>Leather pilgrims script</li><li>Shirt is long knee length, slit to the hips, and close to the body though unfitted. Sleeves closed with string?</li><li>Outer garment appears to mirror this, in a dark plain brown. Appears to have a small slit in the center hem.</li><li>Black shoes, one showing the sole.</li></ul><li>6, dead dude with a crutch</li><ul><li>White V neck shirt to at least crotch length</li><li>Doublet is Dark blue-grey, also v necked. Most likely mid-thigh in length. Fastened with points at teh bust line, and waist. Sleeves are close and have no excess length. </li><li>He has a purse of brown leather.</li><li>A hat is laying on the ground nearby, black with round top and a narrow brim.</li></ul><li>7 and 8 is a Monk. He's wearing a long brown robe, cuffs turned back. There is enough extra fabric to form soft folds at the waist.</li><li>9; fallen off his horse</li><ul><li>Very pale blue doublet, only waist length with a V neck. There does appear to be some extra fabric in the top half of the sleeves, though the bottom is close to the forearm.</li><li>Full hosen in a slightly lighter blue.</li><li>Shirt is visible where the doublet rode up. </li></ul><li>10</li><ul><li>White doublet (dirty)</li><li>Red hat, more like a cloche, and with very little rim.</li></ul><li>11</li><ul><li>I'm fairly sure he's dressed, but it's a nude coloured fabric. I think he's wearing a thigh length doublet, relatively close fitted. </li><li>Something white is around his waist, perhaps an apron. Alternately he is actually naked, and that is a loincloth.<br /></li><li>Buff coloured coif</li></ul><li>12</li><ul><li>Slightly greenish sky blue doublet. Closed all the way up, some ease at the top of the sleeve but closer on the wrist. </li></ul><li>13</li><ul><li>Red doublet. I /think/ it's a waist length one, and we can see his shirt.</li><li>Then a gap showing red hosen.</li></ul><li>14</li><ul><li>Tall black hat, looking much like a fez.</li><li>Dirty grey doublet, hip length and belted. It is loose enough to give waist folds. Front opening is visible.</li><li>Full hose, in red</li></ul><li>15</li><ul><li>Blue hat, with a round top and medium brim</li><li>Red upper garment, with a short slit in the back, belted at the waist</li><li>Black hosen</li></ul><li>16-18, on a closer look, are odd, and do appear more fanciful.\</li></ul></ul><p> </p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>The Yawning Man (<a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Bruegel_Yawning_Man.jpg" target="_blank">https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Bruegel_Yawning_Man.jpg</a>) Shows only a single person (apparently just woken) in a miniature. His hair is short, and he has no facial hair.<br /></li><ul><li>He is wearing a white shirt with gathers at the neck all around, a separately sewn on collar, and mild ruffles. The shirt is loosely closed by a tied cord, which may have tassels on the ends.</li><li>Additionally, he is wearing a black coif, closely fitted.</li></ul></ul><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3NLnoDZ65ou2KRiIhanQ4PvRInI54BIWvJdnaEapgqx135KtTEt8msi5BcUNiwK3YTQ_E60dihE59erhBwCbZewrPeODbrDn43FHdpZG_sZ3yG05RrIQqM8XDUmnyfFRDET5OSOaVkhD1cmWHTV3VBxwFSiEmJttFgDBcByP0NYmV51oGeeaHaicwHIE/s3000/Pieter_Bruegel_procession_to_calvary%20-%20Copy.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2178" data-original-width="3000" height="232" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3NLnoDZ65ou2KRiIhanQ4PvRInI54BIWvJdnaEapgqx135KtTEt8msi5BcUNiwK3YTQ_E60dihE59erhBwCbZewrPeODbrDn43FHdpZG_sZ3yG05RrIQqM8XDUmnyfFRDET5OSOaVkhD1cmWHTV3VBxwFSiEmJttFgDBcByP0NYmV51oGeeaHaicwHIE/s320/Pieter_Bruegel_procession_to_calvary%20-%20Copy.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><p></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>Procession to Calvary (1564) (<a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Procession_to_Calvary_(Bruegel)">https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Procession_to_Calvary_(Bruegel)</a>). While portions are allegorical, most of the bystanders are wearing typical clothing, and there is a lot of great detail.</li><ul><li>1; The Cavalry. The procession has a number of people, many with spears, and mostly wearing the same clothing. Many have facial hair, which is anomalous.<br /></li><ul><li>Broad brimmed hat with a shallow round top. They also have a wreath of some white flower on it.</li><li>Red coat; this has puffed sleeves gathered into both the shoulder and lower arm. The skirt are heavily pleated and come to the high knee. There is a large diagonal slash on each side of the chest.</li><li>Dark/black hosen, or possibly thigh high boots.</li></ul><li>2</li><ul><li>Black knit cap. <br /></li><li>Short doublet, closely fitted. Kind of a mustard colour. </li><li>Brown leggings, which appear to be more loosely fitted than the usual hosen.</li></ul><li>3; background so lesser detail.<br /></li><ul><li>Black knit cap</li><li>White doublet</li><li>Black hosen and shoes</li><li>He does have some kind of sheperds budget.</li></ul><li>4; Basket carrier</li><ul><li> Floppy black cap, much like a modern flat cap.</li><li>Medium blue doublet. Hip length, closer fitted. Fastened apparently only at the waist<br /></li><li>Brown full hosen.</li></ul><li>5; Runner with giant fork?</li><ul><li>Black "slouch" hat</li><li>White upper garment. Loose sleeves, pleated separate skirt coming to lower thigh, and clearly buttoned (unusual)</li><li>Black full hosen and shoes</li><li>Interestingly, he appears to have some kind of mantle which doesn't cover more than the front/back of the torso, and very little of the shoulders. It is black and appears to have tassels.</li></ul><li>6; Runner with bag</li><ul><li>Black or dark grey knit hat.</li><li>Upper garment is black, and waist length. sleeves are fairly loose.</li><li>Dark green skirt showing under that, possible of the garment underneath.</li><li>Blue hosen</li></ul><li>7; Old guy being dragged off. His wife (presumably) next to him clearly has a rosary.</li><ul><li>Blackish white--mixt?--headwear. It seems to have a rolled brim, but also an extremely long back piece to cover the neck.<br /></li><li>Thigh length upper garment, loose. I would call it sheep's black.</li><li>Ring Purse! <br /></li><li>Lighter grey hosen. And black shoes.</li></ul><li>8; Bystander</li><ul><li>Black hat, of the knit split rim type<br /></li><li>Pale red or pink doublet, barely hip length. The sleeves are clearly gathered into the sleevehead and appear quire loose.</li><li>Full hosen in off white</li><li>Slipper or lesser Cowmouth shoes!</li><li>Additionally he has a green apron</li></ul><li>9; Cloaked bystander</li><ul><li>Black knit hat with the front half of the brim turned up.</li><li>Medium grey cloak! It is probably something like a half circle, and does have a collar; it's being worn open, but there is a large simple penannular/annular pin on his doublet which is likely for that.</li><li>Cross front doublet in sheep's black with a red lining. Waist length, and pointed, sleeves not visible.</li><li>Tan or buckskin coloured full hosen.</li><li>Narrow black belt being worn over with a knife in sheath. Blade is about 1.75 hands long</li><li>Also wearing the cowmouth type shoes.</li></ul><li>10; Running peasant</li><ul><li>Black hat similar to many of the others</li><li>Medium grey hip length upper garment, possibly with a waist seam. Sleeves are quite loose.</li><li>Medium brown full hosen.</li><li>Black low boots, rather than shoes. Laces wrapped around the top is fairly visible.</li></ul><li>11; Traveler or maybe a merchant.</li><ul><li>Shapeless black hat, but unusually has pheasant featherss in it. He is also wearing a red coif.</li><li>Dark brown outer garment. What I can see is somewhat tabard-like</li><li>Black primary upper garment, with loose sleeves. No other details visible.</li><li>Basket! Giant basket pack.</li></ul><li>12; </li><ul><li>Red coif <br /></li><li>Dark blue-grey doublet. Close fitting and barely waist length. You can clearly see the points running around the base, which are unlaced. No collar.<br /></li><li>White...shirt? There are a couple of odd folds, and it isn't very long. There is also a back slit.</li></ul><li>13; </li><ul><li>Black cap similar to the others</li><li>Blue-grey jerkin. Clear waist seam, but closely fitted.</li><li>Slightly longer dirty white garment underneath, with closer fitted sleeves.</li><li>I spy a narrow strip of red at the neckline, so he may be wearing another layer as well <br /></li><li>Hosen match the jerkin, and appear to be loosely fitted. At least one set of points are dangling loose.<br /></li><li>Shoes are dark brown rather than black.</li><li>He has some kind of large purse or scrip, which appears to have a interesting--suspender-like?--suspension system in addition to a waist tie. <br /></li></ul><li>14; Shovel carrier. The shovel looks no different from modern, albeit maybe less scooplike<br /></li><ul><li>He appears to be wearing a "Tudor Flat cap" but with a wider brim</li><li>Upper garment a medium brown and at least hip length. Sleeves are loose, but minimally gathered into the shoulders</li><li>Apron of a simple square of linen.</li><li>Hosen may be full, or they may be breeches length with matching cloth stockings.</li><li>Belt, and a sheathed knife dangling from it.</li></ul><li>15;Worried Dude with Berries (he appears to have an elongated bowl of berries)<br /></li><ul><li>Boring tan doublet, closed at the neck, no collar, sleeves minimal.</li><li>Pale ash grey full hosen.</li><li>Standard shoes</li><li>Apron or possibly satchel of an ugly mottled green.</li></ul><li>16; More affluent worried dude</li><ul><li>Sheeps black Hat is somewhat slouchy, much like a half teadrop and giving a slight brim covering the eyes. There is a turn up at the back.</li><li>Doublet is also sheeps black, with full sleeves and a V neck.</li><li>White shirt with round neckline <br /></li><li>Charcoal full hose.</li><li>brownish apron</li></ul><li>17; Worker</li><ul><li>Bowl-like black cap</li><li>No doublet, but a waistcoat in madder red! Fit is close, and it appears to be about hip length.</li><li>Shirt has relatively baggy sleeves, rolled up. <br /></li><li>Sheeps black fitted shorts. No lower leg coverings or shoes.</li></ul><li>18; </li><ul><li>Dull, slightly purplish doublet with medium sleeves.</li><li>Over that is a greenish...waistcoat? open all the way down the front.</li><li>A strip of white is visible down the front. Shirt?</li><li>Black full hose.</li></ul><li>19; Black Sack hauler</li><ul><li>Black hat, turned up at the front.</li><li>Dark grey knee length jerkin, separate skirts, pleated to the back. The armscye is wide open.</li><li>Doublet has moderate sleeves, and is a dirty taupe colour.</li><li>Belt, with a moderately sized knife.</li><li>Dark grey full hose, about the same colour as the jerkin.</li><li>Standard black shoes.</li></ul><li>20; Piggyback carrier</li><ul><li>Medium, yellowish brown doublet, waist length. Can't make out details.</li><li>Off white loose, galligaskin style hosen, stopping below the knee.</li><li>Calves are either covered in a brown hose, or are dirty skin--you can't see any other prospective skin to compare.<br /></li><li>Standard shoes</li></ul><li>21; Cross Puller</li><ul><li>White shirt, sleeves rolled past the elbow.</li><li>Knee length hose are closely fitted and appear to be two colours, a mid blue above the upper thigh, and green below</li><li>Standard shoes</li></ul><li>22; Ticked off guy on white horse;</li><ul><li>Dark blue/green cap, with brim flipped up slightly</li><li>Loose outer garment in white, skirts in one, close sleeves, and fastened only at the neck, which is fairly wide<br /></li><li>Underneath is a purple doublet? peeking out at cuffs, neckline, and chest.</li><li>Hose are interesting; it almost looks like he's wearing exposed braies, as the off white garment looks a lot like modern boxer-briefs. You can see seaming on the codpiece. Over that is a pair of closely fitted verdigris (blue-green) hose. </li><li>Shoes appear fairly standard, but taller. You can make out some of the seams.</li></ul><li>23; White jacket</li><ul><li>Dark plum red hat, turned up at the cuff<br /></li><li>White pleat backed sleeved coat. The pleats are only at the back waist. There may or may not be a waist seam. Armscyes and likely sleeves are large. Neckline is wide and shows underlayer.</li><li>The dirty grey layer underneath appears to be a much similar garment, but longer. Additionally the pleats are better formed, perhaps indicative of a waist seam.</li><li>Knee high hose, rolled down slightly. Nothing showing above the knee.<br /></li><li>Standard shoes</li></ul><li>24; Fork dude (Okay...it's a lindstock)<br /></li><ul><li>Red and white striped knit beanie hat.</li><li>Grey caftan-like garment. Knee length, split for and aft with cut on short sleeves. The neck has a V back.</li><li>Shorter medium brown garment underneath with more of a boat neck and long sleeves.</li><li>Full black hosen</li><li>It almost appears he is wearing boots up to the calf, but I cannot be sure.</li><li>He additionally seems to have a satchel or large belt bag on his hip, in the same material as the caftan. <br /></li></ul><li>25; Young guy</li><ul><li>Black beanie type with brim up.</li><li>Black doublet.</li><li>He is carrying something white which I think is a jerkin/coat.</li><li>Full length hose in white.</li><li>Hanging from a belt are a knife set and a brown ball-like thing.</li><li>Brown satchel; simple and square.</li><li>Standard shoes.</li></ul><li>26; Guy on cart</li><ul><li>Green jacket, with relatively short sleeves and stimple construction. He is wearing it just draped over his shoulder<br /></li><li>White shirt</li><li>Gloves!</li><li>Full hosen in purplish brown, with a visible set of slash and puff across the thigh.</li></ul><li>27; Ancient dude on cart</li><ul><li>Waistcoat in dull red, worn over shoulders.</li><li>White shirt</li></ul><li>28; Drover</li><ul><li>Hat has almost a mild bicorn appearance and is dull red.</li><li>Black doublet is slashed vertically in the body...this is unusual to say the least. </li><li> White...shirt?</li><li>Red full hosen.</li><li>standard shoes</li></ul><li>29; He's a running</li><ul><li>Sheeps black hat with the brims turned up in two pieces.</li><li>Sheeps black coat, moderate sleeves, skirt cut on, and a back vent. Barely thigh length.</li><li>Black full hose.</li><li>He may be wearing knee high boots, but it's hard to tell.</li></ul><li>30; Guard!</li><ul><li>He appears to be wearing a helmet with a visor up?</li><li>Coat is a light grey, with a black guard of trim a little from the hem. IT is knee length, has very full sleeves pleated into the armscye. Skirt is separate piece and clearly knife pleated towards the back, with some additional pleats in the front.</li><li>Full hose in black</li><li>Standard shoes.</li><li>Sword of some kind.</li></ul><li>31; Kid by horse</li><ul><li>Simple, red hat.</li><li>Doublet in a dark bluish. Close sleeves, only closed at neck</li><li>dirty white shirt <br /></li><li>Medium grey knee length hosen.</li></ul><li>32; Child carrier</li><ul><li>Dull red coat, with full sleeves. Bottom of the armscye appears to be somewhat squared. It is clearly lined with a white fabric, which is beginning to wear through. The skirt is tucked into a narrow black belt.</li><li>Trousers are loose fitted, matching, and only knee length.</li></ul><li>33; In danger of being kicked</li><ul><li>Sheeps black hat which is fairly low and flat. It has a feather. He is also wearing a dark grey coif.</li><li>Red doublet, moderately full sleeves.</li><li>Dull plum full hosen. It shows the center back seam.</li><li>White shirt peeking out at waist<br /></li><li>Belt with what appears to be a ring purse, possibly with a knife hilt sticking up from behind.</li><li>Standard shoes</li></ul></ul></ul><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzbmvJRhmegZhBhkXmPS-AcbnBnrdmsSfpYKMtIs0krjJ7M0l68Jlmx4Itvg0txNaBCfmt7BepxryThZ6vNCCwTgqFRuasvGpkTey8yYfuZYRzCu9wM0e1EKpirCQX3VNLT_UZPt66c2l5WQV3ahTUTeVcR0fTE7NLoQnDqHHkfWS72MBbORgXqCC_dac/s800/800px-Pieter_Bruegel_the_Elder_-_Hunters_in_the_Snow_(Winter)_-_Google_Art_Project%20-%20Copy.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="569" data-original-width="800" height="228" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzbmvJRhmegZhBhkXmPS-AcbnBnrdmsSfpYKMtIs0krjJ7M0l68Jlmx4Itvg0txNaBCfmt7BepxryThZ6vNCCwTgqFRuasvGpkTey8yYfuZYRzCu9wM0e1EKpirCQX3VNLT_UZPt66c2l5WQV3ahTUTeVcR0fTE7NLoQnDqHHkfWS72MBbORgXqCC_dac/s320/800px-Pieter_Bruegel_the_Elder_-_Hunters_in_the_Snow_(Winter)_-_Google_Art_Project%20-%20Copy.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><p></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Hunters_in_the_Snow#/media/File:Pieter_Bruegel_the_Elder_-_Hunters_in_the_Snow_(Winter)_-_Google_Art_Project.jpg" target="_blank">The Hunters in the Snow</a>, 1565. Great because it has outdoor winter wear<br /></li><ul><li>Table hauler</li><ul><li>Black knit cap, upturned brim</li><li>Dark coat, full sleeves. </li><li>Russet hosen?</li></ul><li>Fox Hunter</li><ul><li>Fuzzy black knit hat; shaped like a wide bell, and turned up at back<br /></li><li>Black hood! Possibly a balaclava type, as it appears his mouth may be covered. The skirt is small and only covers part of the shoulders.</li><li>His outermost garment is a dull yellowish brown, and doesn't appears to be a heavily textured wool. Thigh length, grown on skirts, and slit in the back.</li><li>A slightly longer and similar coat is underneath, black. <br /></li><li>Large ring neck purse</li><li>Knife is clearly visible.</li><li>Hosen are similar in colour to outer garment, but do appear fuzzy. Frieze?</li></ul><li>Spear Carrier</li><ul><li>Hat is fuzzy knit, no brim, and turned up at the back.</li><li>Outermost garment appears to be a fairly shapeless, sleeveless jerkin in a dull red.</li><li>Underneath, a black doublet.</li><li>FUR MITTENS</li><li>Multiple purses, at least one is a D ring frame purse.</li><li>Full hosen in Black</li><li>Over leggings in a heavier brown fabric or leather. They appear to be open at the back and just wrapped on. Knee height</li></ul><li>Dark Trudger</li><ul><li>Black shapeless hat</li><li>Dark brown coat, full sleeves, pleated to the shoulder, and with mid thigh skirts</li><li>Hosen are of the galligaskin type, in black.</li><li>Shorter netherstocks or stockings in a brown.</li></ul></ul></ul><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbMfmZPBeP-CKd2ENeEOCieaOj7wDP7mteEWBFtZ3g2yfYl93p-v6UB84vpkdHJn2AqASs0sr2Sv20S_I6ZhXcKzpNUqNfUbHtP_H4mcroJXQoHRsjvXpgueq5JIuL6YmrquMra5fPucpPFiU_0pAMZXLCrnl8Hg78dRdABg90QZ2Ci_c1AHra3FT4lKk/s1492/Pieter_Bruegel_(I)_-_The_Return_of_the_Herd_(1565)%20-%20Copy.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="1492" height="232" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbMfmZPBeP-CKd2ENeEOCieaOj7wDP7mteEWBFtZ3g2yfYl93p-v6UB84vpkdHJn2AqASs0sr2Sv20S_I6ZhXcKzpNUqNfUbHtP_H4mcroJXQoHRsjvXpgueq5JIuL6YmrquMra5fPucpPFiU_0pAMZXLCrnl8Hg78dRdABg90QZ2Ci_c1AHra3FT4lKk/s320/Pieter_Bruegel_(I)_-_The_Return_of_the_Herd_(1565)%20-%20Copy.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><p></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Return_of_the_Herd" target="_blank">The Return of the Herd</a>; 1565</li><ul><li>Cow-poker. Left</li><ul><li>Wide brimmed hat, possibly in straw</li><li>Close fitting doublet type jacket, light brown. The sleeves are close and closed with a button.</li><li>Underneath, a red layer peeks out.</li><li>Apron twisted around the hips.</li><li>Full hose, in medium grey.</li><li>Netherstocks in a buff tone, possibly thin leather. They appear to be a tube, split at the back to accommodate the calf muscle. I would guess they are laced below that, and just rolled to fasten the top.</li></ul><li>Cow-chaser</li><ul><li>Shapeless off black hat</li><li>Hip length jacket, in off black. Body is semi-fitted, and sleeves slightly full. Skirt probably cut on.</li><li>Green hosen!</li><li>Buff nethersocks, tops rolled down. No split is visible on his pair.</li></ul><li>3</li><ul><li>Shapeless pale brown hat with wide brim. Much like a hat blank.</li><li>Pale brown, sleeveless, tabard-like outer garment.</li><li>Coat is white, hip length, with moderately full sleeves and a pleated skirt.</li><li>Brown full hosen.</li><li>DAGGER! Not a working knife, but possibly something like a baselard</li><li>Book bag? <br /></li></ul><li>4, Ragged Peasant<br /></li><ul><li>This looks like a straw hat. Slightly tapered top, and moderate brim.</li><li>Ragged black vest over a white jacket with full sleeves. Hip length and unpleated.</li><li>I think he is wearing knee breeches style of hosen, in a dirty white.</li><li>Bare lower legs?</li></ul><li>5 Pike Bearer</li><ul><li>Narrow brimmed felt cap, or helmet</li><li>Waistcoat or cuirasse?</li><li>White hip length jacket. Appears to have side pleats?</li><li>Underneath a black garment to mid thigh.</li><li>Bare legs? Or otherwise buff/white tight fitting hose. He did not skip leg day.</li><li>A different type of dagger, with a "Venetian" pommel? It makes me think of shiavona pommels. </li></ul></ul></ul><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAzNsFop5uGpllvQ1AT48zD3gkOeUVZPbAAu_kLzUIJvIj9_N3bwa6QTjVfidabIfy0y_exFLg7kzq6wnyWWA5mKptVIbhh67kAGz16-UKft7h1FBbQS1MkSEG3Pg23kV4O1AUJLjsPBboWMkEW4Yjamy96XK3QaPzs25gdkXJTyZdOrssrBhR4eeSe7M/s2117/The_haymaking,_by_Pieter_Bruegel_(I).jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1528" data-original-width="2117" height="231" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAzNsFop5uGpllvQ1AT48zD3gkOeUVZPbAAu_kLzUIJvIj9_N3bwa6QTjVfidabIfy0y_exFLg7kzq6wnyWWA5mKptVIbhh67kAGz16-UKft7h1FBbQS1MkSEG3Pg23kV4O1AUJLjsPBboWMkEW4Yjamy96XK3QaPzs25gdkXJTyZdOrssrBhR4eeSe7M/s320/The_haymaking,_by_Pieter_Bruegel_(I).jpg" width="320" /></a></div><p></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><a href="The Hay Harvest" target="_blank">The Hay Harvest</a>; 1564. Great source of farmers working.<br /></li><ul><li>1</li><ul><li>Grey or black hat. Unknown shape.</li><li>White shirt. It appears to be fairly geometric, and able to have the sleeves rolled up.</li><li>Grey full hosen with codpiece</li></ul><li>2</li><ul><li>Tan hat with narrow brim</li><li>Waistcoat in grey. It is unlaced and doesn't even reach the waist.</li><li>Full hose in darker grey or black.</li></ul><li>3 (Not much detail)</li><ul><li>Reddish, coif-like hat</li><li>Black short jacket. Sleeves moderately full. May have gathered cuff. </li><li>Black hosen.</li></ul><li>4 Sycthe Peener (dude is <a href="https://scythesupply.com/peeningworkshop.html" target="_blank">peening scythes</a>) <br /></li><ul><li>Wide brim straw hat</li><li>Blue waistcoat. Again, it is barely waist length, and unpointed.</li><li>Shirt is similar, and shows a rounded neckline. <br /></li><li>Red Knee breech type hose. I cannot see if there is a codpiece.</li><li>Grey lower hosen, which are rolled down below the knee. Given they are behaving, I assume the presence of garters.</li><li>Black shoes.</li><li>Additionally, because I love scythes; the blades are similar to the modern styles, albeit possibly with a deeper curve and wider beard. The snath is straight, and has no handles. There is a bent withy attached to the back to aid in the hay laying straight.</li></ul><li>4(2...oops). Basket carrier</li><ul><li>Grey jacket, hip length and mostly loose. Skirt may be seamed.</li><li>You can see hints of his Braies/underwear as he skipped the hosen; which are boxer length and are tight to the thigh with a seam down the back thigh.</li><li>White netherstocks, rolled to below the knee.</li><li>BROWN shoes. A rarity.</li></ul><li>5 Baskethead<br /></li><ul><li>Light grey doublet, relatively loose sleeves and barely waist length. Points unfastened.</li><li>Light green full hose</li><li>Black shoes</li></ul><li>6</li><ul><li>Black knit hat, perhaps flat cap type?</li><li>Brown doublet, not even waist length.</li><li>Black full hosen. Points dangling<br /></li><li>A simple knife is dangling at his hip.</li></ul><li>7</li><ul><li>Blue Waistcoat</li><li>Medium grey full hosen</li><li>Grey hat</li></ul><li>8</li><ul><li>Sheep coloured hat</li><li>Dun brown waistcoat?</li><li>Dun Brown full hosen.</li></ul></ul></ul><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaebqx-8sVHHu8c-g3wxm_ggOhH4NEJNei_BPvFf4mneJX38CCPt4IYKn7hFMxRlYVrZIO_F1Zx2iwljD5ZS4YkN7VLP_XFv8VjLZG1QbFVWSEeINjAZv_LW9oHpJj-lfWYgmcXIak_Da2K7OzdhrIA_3BPrYdiZz_1725rjcXR6vDEr6TPBNXTBf-4l0/s1483/The_Gloomy_Day_(Bruegel).jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="1483" height="233" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaebqx-8sVHHu8c-g3wxm_ggOhH4NEJNei_BPvFf4mneJX38CCPt4IYKn7hFMxRlYVrZIO_F1Zx2iwljD5ZS4YkN7VLP_XFv8VjLZG1QbFVWSEeINjAZv_LW9oHpJj-lfWYgmcXIak_Da2K7OzdhrIA_3BPrYdiZz_1725rjcXR6vDEr6TPBNXTBf-4l0/s320/The_Gloomy_Day_(Bruegel).jpg" width="320" /></a></div><p></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Gloomy_Day" target="_blank">The Gloomy Day</a>, 1565. </li><ul><li>1</li><ul><li>Black knit hat. Shape cannot be determined.</li><li>White jerkin, waist length with full sleeves. </li><li>Black full hose. At least some points appear to be unlaced.</li></ul><li>2</li><ul><li>Black knit hat, slightly fuzzy and with a tiny brim</li><li>Blue coat, hip length and with cut on skirts. There is a slit at center back, and the sleeves are fairly full and extra long.</li><li>Red full length hose with codpiece.</li></ul><li>3</li><ul><li>Simple black cap.</li><li>Black doublet, full sleeves and waist length.</li><li>Slightly longer Red garment being worn underneath, possibly a longer waistcoat or doublet. You can see a set of points dangling at the hip.<br /></li><li>Full hosen in white, codpiece is visible.</li><li>Black shoes <br /></li></ul><li>4; At least, I suspect it's a dude. This person will not be included in the data, as an outlier.<br /></li><ul><li>Black "split brim beanie" hat, with the back turned up. He is also wearing a headwrap?</li><li>Full length, robelike outer garment in blue. The hem may have trim. Neckline may also have trim, or he is wearing a hood with square skirts as in the Hunters</li></ul></ul></ul><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEim_i2ubOH4ZPbIyNJJkIZFriw2rrmJUTfzkCh-pkXgLIZg5TN_Ghsr-UyNiWtFOwHaX1zoudtcXAyRTnrcYUF6ygscoMD50Q8GaCK8JJvsJE_Shyla9lfw5amYhZDTsDJTV5BjRcgykgJjES8XQnpqUGZgxvUdako8WBWVFHIrKcRiHCdpI50KzqRHFdU/s1483/Pieter_Bruegel_the_Elder-_The_Harvesters.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="1483" height="233" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEim_i2ubOH4ZPbIyNJJkIZFriw2rrmJUTfzkCh-pkXgLIZg5TN_Ghsr-UyNiWtFOwHaX1zoudtcXAyRTnrcYUF6ygscoMD50Q8GaCK8JJvsJE_Shyla9lfw5amYhZDTsDJTV5BjRcgykgJjES8XQnpqUGZgxvUdako8WBWVFHIrKcRiHCdpI50KzqRHFdU/s320/Pieter_Bruegel_the_Elder-_The_Harvesters.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><p></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Harvesters_(painting)" target="_blank">The Harvesters</a>, 1565. Another great one showing dishabille as they are working.</li><ul><li>1; Scythe mower</li><ul><li>Broad brimmed hat in pale brown. Could be either felt or straw.<br /></li><li>White shirt. Neckline is wide, construction square, and sleeves straight enough they could be rolled up.</li><li>Black full hose.</li><li>Black round toed shoes.</li><li>Scythe! As before, it appears to have a deeper belly than most modern blades. The snath may have a lower handle, based on hand position of him and person 2.</li></ul><li>2; Second Mower</li><ul><li>Grey hat, relatively narrow brim and higher crown. Details aren't great.</li><li>White shirt, sleeves rolled up.</li><li>Grey full hose. You can see the seams running down the back of the leg.</li></ul><li>3; Jug Hauler</li><ul><li>White shirt, of similar form. Neckline almost appears to be a pentagon, at least from the front.</li><li>Grey full hose.</li></ul><li>4; Forswunk dude. Scythe mowing is hard work. Or he's drunk.<br /></li><ul><li>White shirt, neckline is more squared than the last.</li><li>Full grey hose. Front point is a bit loose after his meal.</li><li>Black belt, which is quite narrow.</li><li>He is resting on a red outer garment.</li></ul><li>5; Bread eater</li><ul><li>Brimmed black hat, almost like a flat brim bowler.</li><li>Black doublet with full sleeves.</li></ul><li>6; Drinker</li><ul><li>Red doublet, relatively close fitting in body and sleeve.</li><li>Black full hosen.</li></ul><li>7; Porridge eater</li><ul><li>Brown knit cap, round and turned up at the back.</li><li>Grey doublet. While sleeves are fairly full if unpleated at top, they are narrow enough at the wrist to require fastening.</li><li>Dirty white full hose.</li></ul><li>8; Magnus (lost his pants)</li><ul><li>Grey doublet, showing a scoop neck in the back.</li><li>White shirt, mid thigh in length, probably longer in back, and slit halfway up the thigh.<br /></li></ul><li>9, Hay gatherer<br /></li><ul><li>Red waistcoat, waist length</li><li>Shirt shirt of same form</li><li>Tannish hosen</li></ul><li>10; Tiny mower</li><ul><li>White shirt</li><li>Full hose in tan</li></ul></ul></ul><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgk6miww14Gij5YOS54_5noAntT0sRRef_A3-qmcUUZ-XMNHzWD1G0sMv4_LDz_q8MB3rIEKGQYzdAfqUfb19P_CRztkMGXL28OoaOZpLk_G9-LQrGyGHrnwGw5aOCJ0BT40lJ66c3zZpIPpImsLOUDrzi1FKzbNzJgr87vY1Ly6Sue1oULF9K7Mpf6jXU/s2000/The%20Massacre%20of%20the%20Innocents.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1391" data-original-width="2000" height="223" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgk6miww14Gij5YOS54_5noAntT0sRRef_A3-qmcUUZ-XMNHzWD1G0sMv4_LDz_q8MB3rIEKGQYzdAfqUfb19P_CRztkMGXL28OoaOZpLk_G9-LQrGyGHrnwGw5aOCJ0BT40lJ66c3zZpIPpImsLOUDrzi1FKzbNzJgr87vY1Ly6Sue1oULF9K7Mpf6jXU/s320/The%20Massacre%20of%20the%20Innocents.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><p></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><a href="https://www.rct.uk/collection/405787/massacre-of-the-innocents" target="_blank">The Massacre of the Innocents</a>, 1565-67. Apparently, this image was modified sometime after being painted, covering up a lot of the deaths.<br /></li><ul><li>1 (White jacket)</li><ul><li>Black knit close cap</li><li>White mid-thigh length outer jacket. Closer fitting, and pleated to gather at small of back.</li><li>Black knee length coat under with strong pleats at back.</li><li>Black or dark grey hosen. Indeterminate type</li></ul><li>2 (Running with Sword). Possibly soldier<br /></li><ul><li>Black floppy hat with a tag.</li><li>V necked jerkin with cut on skirt. Sleeves are moderately full.</li><li>Blue hosen. Lower leg is a lighter shade of blue and is likely netherstocks.</li></ul><li>3 (Crowd herder). Thrown out after numbering as clearly "Other"</li><li>4 (Bergher). Likely a different social class than target.<br /></li><ul><li>Black full coat, knee length, and pleated at skirts, shoulder, and wrist. Shows a differently coloured sleeve cuff.</li><li>Brown hosen.</li></ul><li>5 (Pleader)</li><ul><li>Black hip length outer garment, not very full.</li><li>A brown belt (unusual), with simple sheath knife dangling.</li><li>Brown full hosen.</li></ul><li>6 (Griever) </li><ul><li>Black knit hat of cloche shape.</li><li>Blueish knee length outer garment. Sleeves are moderately full and the skirts pleated.</li><li>Black hosen.</li></ul><li>7 (Old Spectator)</li><ul><li>He is holding a felted cap, round top and with a brim turned up in back.</li><li>Loose Brown coat, knee length, and lined in a medium blue (visible at neckline)</li><li>Black square neck garment underneath? <br /></li><li>Blue full hosen.</li></ul><li>11 <br /></li><ul><li>Wide brim hat in red in hands</li><li>Long black coat. Body is fitted, armscye pleated</li><li>Lighter black hosen.</li><li>Lower hosen in buff with roll top.</li><li>Black Shoes appear to be more square toed than norm.</li></ul><li>12</li><ul><li>Red hair...most unusual.</li><li>Brown hip length jacket with full but rectangular sleeves.</li><li>Blue full hosen.</li></ul><li>13</li><ul><li>Long white coat, lined with light green. The back is gathered to the waist</li><li>Brown doublet, I suspect.</li><li>Black hose of the galligaskin style</li><li>Black netherstocks</li></ul><li>14</li><ul><li>Long Black coat. Body is fitted, and skirts past the knee, cut on, and pleated.</li><li>Narrow belt, and suspended simple knife.</li><li>Dark brown hose</li></ul><li>15</li><ul><li>Red cap of some fitted kind</li><li>Blackish doublet</li><li>Brown hose.</li></ul></ul></ul><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDq_lGkWA7d49VErXhCgp1bf_t6LoI4ah4uRAIGPf_SKxQVX5PgkGwVHA1CehD88KHGAjmA-cehNp-0uSs775f-YyzfQIehBgnKT5rIJ7pK3kShSRN3LshEQb4oVUBJC8savk06wPpDpGnpDQ9W_uROjxns3b_AFd9pi5oJGyiG0Wt4OsrgRQ9Wz58wM8/s252/The%20Massacre%20of%20the%20Innocents_TURKEY.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="219" data-original-width="252" height="219" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDq_lGkWA7d49VErXhCgp1bf_t6LoI4ah4uRAIGPf_SKxQVX5PgkGwVHA1CehD88KHGAjmA-cehNp-0uSs775f-YyzfQIehBgnKT5rIJ7pK3kShSRN3LshEQb4oVUBJC8savk06wPpDpGnpDQ9W_uROjxns3b_AFd9pi5oJGyiG0Wt4OsrgRQ9Wz58wM8/s1600/The%20Massacre%20of%20the%20Innocents_TURKEY.jpg" width="252" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Turkey in Massacre of the Innocents!<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj92tGhjaNJbgFnSvkVQarkfzxKvwsPAkLozk2417U24JbMa0wbhUx3Ri33apFD69w85doovGZMsF0skLo7IO6SkNyopa46MtO7_oZ5rnyIScBnvFyK9pnrk1duHVynZkcT7Rkp2xSj4uqqs1GtD9MUBkVQwzbNM6ci3cXwUVh90UMdC10dU_qGXCPgb5Q/s12406/Winterlandschap_met_schaatsers_en_vogelknip,_1565.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="8224" data-original-width="12406" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj92tGhjaNJbgFnSvkVQarkfzxKvwsPAkLozk2417U24JbMa0wbhUx3Ri33apFD69w85doovGZMsF0skLo7IO6SkNyopa46MtO7_oZ5rnyIScBnvFyK9pnrk1duHVynZkcT7Rkp2xSj4uqqs1GtD9MUBkVQwzbNM6ci3cXwUVh90UMdC10dU_qGXCPgb5Q/s320/Winterlandschap_met_schaatsers_en_vogelknip,_1565.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><p></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Winter_Landscape_with_Ice_skaters_and_Bird_trap" target="_blank">Winter Landscape with Ice Skaters and Bird Trap</a>, 1565. Unfortunately, the painting is heavily yellowed from age, and the detail isn't very good. However, I can get the gist of many garments.<br /></li><ul><li>1; Top spinner. I believe that is what he's doing, anyways.</li><ul><li>Knit hat in dark blue/green</li><li>Dirty white coat, longer than knee length, and split front and back. Belted<br /></li><li>Dark hosen</li></ul><li>2</li><ul><li>Round cap in black. </li><li>Long coat in black</li><li>Black hosen</li></ul><li>3 (Black guy doing curling?<br /></li><ul><li>Black hat, much like a flat cap shoved down on your head.</li><li>Black doublet, waist length, moderately full sleeves</li><li>Red knee hosen, and red netherstocks</li></ul><li>4 (Pointer</li><ul><li>Red flat cap</li><li>Black long coat. Body is close, sleeveheads are pleated, and may have an additional wing. Skirts quite full and pleated.</li><li>Black hosen, fairly loose appearing.</li><li>Skates.</li></ul><li>5</li><ul><li>Broad brim black hat</li><li>Loose dark blue coat</li><li>Galligaskin type hose in black</li><li>Belt</li></ul><li>6 (Top spinner 2<br /></li><ul><li>Somewhat pointed hat, brown</li><li>Red Doublet</li><li>Beard! Unusual, that.</li><li>Full hose in sheeps black or brown.</li></ul><li>7 (no idea what he's up to)</li><ul><li>Black flat cap</li><li>Black loose short coat</li><li>Loose Black hose</li></ul><li>8</li><ul><li>Red cap</li><li>Black doublet</li><li>Red hose</li></ul><li>9 (Curling or a variation on lawn bowls</li><ul><li>Black cape</li><li>Black doublet</li><li>Black trousers/loose hose.</li></ul><li>10</li><ul><li>Black cap</li><li>Red short coat, hip length, square body.</li><li>White full hose? </li></ul><li>11</li><ul><li>Black hat pulled down</li><li>Green doublet</li><li>Black full hose</li><li>Ice Skates</li></ul><li>12</li><ul><li>Black hat</li><li>Brown short coat</li><li>Black hose</li><li>Skates</li></ul><li>13</li><ul><li>Black hat</li><li>Short black coat</li><li>Black loose hosen</li></ul><li>14</li><ul><li>Red pointy hat, possibly thrummed</li><li>Black doublet</li><li>Red hose</li></ul><li>15 (hockey?)<br /></li><ul><li>Dirty white doublet</li><li>Blue hosen</li></ul><li>16</li><ul><li>Black hat</li><li>Black doublet</li><li>Black loose hosen</li></ul><li>17 </li><ul><li>Brown hat, thrummed or fur</li><li>Off Black coat, knee length, possibly pleated to the back</li><li>Blue hose</li><li>Brown shoes</li></ul><li>18 (Definitely a hockey type stick)</li><ul><li>Reddish hat</li><li>Loose short black coat</li><li>Dark blue full hose</li></ul><li>19</li><ul><li>Black? doublet</li><li>Black full hose</li><li>Skates <br /></li></ul><li>20</li><ul><li>Black flat cap</li><li>Blue? Longer coat fitted to waist</li><li>Red hosen.</li><li>Skates</li></ul></ul></ul><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRAKqoXgl_iL2XOGpI1c0-fLNWHyrjOpV7z_sp52BgQDMolcQTZfTY7MfNuMTvQO6tr4O7HZQIrJ7pAZC5ys4Vi_bzb6BdJ7HUyQ06pnTL1ll67EP2pz2e8ylMDktSOI_4JsFGiubhycMslnr0Gq_TlXQc09-equFKzHQjRgSHSuFoJasQ5NExzU31gIE/s1920/El_vino_de_la_fiesta_de_San_Mart%C3%ADn_(Pieter_Brueghel_el_Viejo)_(restaurada)%20-%20Copy.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1038" data-original-width="1920" height="173" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRAKqoXgl_iL2XOGpI1c0-fLNWHyrjOpV7z_sp52BgQDMolcQTZfTY7MfNuMTvQO6tr4O7HZQIrJ7pAZC5ys4Vi_bzb6BdJ7HUyQ06pnTL1ll67EP2pz2e8ylMDktSOI_4JsFGiubhycMslnr0Gq_TlXQc09-equFKzHQjRgSHSuFoJasQ5NExzU31gIE/s320/El_vino_de_la_fiesta_de_San_Mart%C3%ADn_(Pieter_Brueghel_el_Viejo)_(restaurada)%20-%20Copy.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><p></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><a href="https://www.museodelprado.es/en/the-collection/art-work/the-wine-of-saint-martins-day/e6d44e39-77fb-4deb-a5ed-0a99fbe76847" target="_blank">The Wine of Saint Martin's Day</a>, 1566-67</li><ul><li> 1</li><ul><li>White shirt with wide collar</li><li>it Almost looks like skirts, but probably is the remains of an apron.</li></ul><li>2 (Passed out</li><ul><li>White shirt and undies</li><li>Red knit coif</li><li>Blue separate sleeves</li><li>Grey full hose.</li><li>Mule type shoes</li></ul><li>3 (Aggressive Drunk</li><ul><li>Dun vest or waistcoat</li><li>Small white satchel</li><li>White shirt</li><li>Remains of knee length red hosen.</li><li>One netherstock white, the other grey.</li></ul><li>4 (Dancer</li><ul><li>Blue hat</li><li>Lighter blue thigh length outer garment, pleated at the back</li><li>Grey full hosen</li></ul><li>5 (Am sleepy)</li><ul><li>Black cloche type hat</li><li>Dark blue jacket. Hip length, relatively square</li><li>Black full hose.</li></ul><li>6 </li><ul><li>Loose Vest</li></ul><li>7 (turnip wielder </li><ul><li>Floppy black cap with ears, lined in red<br /></li><li>Long coat in dark reddish brown?. Fastened only at front waist.</li><li>No hose.</li><li>U purse frame, with no purse <br /></li></ul><li>8</li><ul><li>Black hat</li><ul><li>Pale blue coat, extremely loose construction and huge armscye</li><li>Shirt, to the knees</li><li>Belted underneath the coat, with something dangling</li></ul></ul><li> 9 (why is he holding a branch?)<br /></li><ul><li>Black skullcap with a spoon stuck in</li><li>Torn up shirt</li><li>Brownish waistcoat</li><li>Apron tightly wrapped around his waist </li></ul><li>10</li><ul><li>Black skullcap</li><li>Thigh length black coat, open other than at waist.</li><li>Dirty white/light grey hosen</li></ul><li>11</li><ul><li>Black coif</li><li>Red coat, thigh length, of boxy cut, and side slits</li><li>Full brown hosen.</li></ul><li>12</li><ul><li>White Coif</li><li>Hip length Waistcoat in Sheeps black?</li><li>Shirtsleeves only</li></ul><li>13 <br /></li><ul><li>White sleeves of probably a jacket</li><li>long sleeveless outer garment in black</li><li>APRON. A brown apron which is actually fastened at the neck, as you seen in later working class images.</li></ul><li>14</li><ul><li>Red full sleeved outer garment</li><li>White shirt </li></ul><li>15</li><ul><li>Grey skullcap type hat, with a feather in</li><li>Short black waistcoat.</li><li>Tight white shirt, or his arms are bare and really pallid. Disregard from shirt notes.</li><li>Scrip for carrying things.</li><li>Full loose hosen in grey.</li></ul><li>16 Climber. Probably a little wealthier, by the clothing.<br /></li><ul><li>Black hat of some kind</li><li>Blue outer garment with wide sleeves and a short, heavily pleated skirt.</li><li>Black loose hosen. </li></ul><li>17</li><ul><li>Red coif</li><li>Brown Jerkin of thigh length</li><li>Grey coat. Sleeves are a little longer than norm.</li></ul><li>18 (Successful climber</li><ul><li>black coif</li><li>Dark dun waistcoat</li><li>Mustard yellow doublet with loose sleeves.</li><li>White apron, tied at hips.</li><li>Either no pants, or really good fit on white hosen.</li></ul><li>19 (Chugger</li><ul><li>Sheeps black waistcoat, fastened only at the front waist.</li><li>White shirt</li></ul><li>20 </li><ul><li>Black doublet</li><li>White shirt</li><li>Red full hosen</li></ul><li>21 (pants falling down</li><ul><li>Brown doublet, waist length and with full sleeves.</li><li>Light grey hosen, which are falling down, only held up by one lace.</li></ul><li>22</li><ul><li>Brown skullcap</li><li>Long coat in red. Fastened only at neck and waist. Comes down to calf. Lined in white fabric shows at turned back cuffs</li><li>Dun hosen <br /></li></ul><li>23 (Keymaster</li><ul><li> Brown deep hat</li><li>Doublet in black. Waist length, and with an odd slit down the back</li><li>Dark grey apron (Unusual)<br /></li><li>White shirt</li><li>He also has two keys hung from his belt</li></ul><li>24 (Cripple; doublet amputee<br /></li><ul><li>Black coif</li><li>Red jerkin of hip length</li><li>Medium blue jacket</li><li>Brown knee length hosen, </li><li>Grey netherstocks covering his stumps</li><li>Crutches, and I suppose prosthesis. Those are T shaped and strapped to his shins.</li></ul><li>25</li><ul><li>Sheeps Black flat cap</li><li>White/grey long coat, fitted to the wrist and slit at the back.</li></ul><li>26</li><ul><li>Slightly purplish close cap</li><li>Light blue thigh length jacket which may have a hood?</li><li>Red trouser type hosen of calf length</li><li>Grey stockings.</li></ul></ul></ul><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXlyqNr-_bBNGFPEPY9GHuLW8dDKx9r2L29lnLU_LgestfxVvP_6leniRwQINwlik903z6XJndSmOeotRtq9T0Gm3Joe08GTshcJvgIJelp2bK87vfThiNGRrDXgX6xkKPIBBGyTVm32a8QI0_vpOfvgICIRr_wtdA_qs-R4-Mgx_8lnqTIp8HBkNCIz0/s1424/Pieter_Bruegel_de_Oude_-_De_bruiloft_dans_(Detroit)%20-%20Copy.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="1424" height="243" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXlyqNr-_bBNGFPEPY9GHuLW8dDKx9r2L29lnLU_LgestfxVvP_6leniRwQINwlik903z6XJndSmOeotRtq9T0Gm3Joe08GTshcJvgIJelp2bK87vfThiNGRrDXgX6xkKPIBBGyTVm32a8QI0_vpOfvgICIRr_wtdA_qs-R4-Mgx_8lnqTIp8HBkNCIz0/s320/Pieter_Bruegel_de_Oude_-_De_bruiloft_dans_(Detroit)%20-%20Copy.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><p></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><a href="https://dia.org/collection/wedding-dance-35573" target="_blank">The Wedding Dance</a>; 1566</li><ul><li>1 (Lurker)</li><ul><li>Red Flat cap</li><li>Black doublet of waist length</li><li>Lighter sheeps black hosen of maybe calf length. There does not appear to be a codpiece.</li><li>gloves! This is a rarity. They are a natural coloured leather and appear to have a "normal" fit. There is little to no cuff, which is hemmed, snipped, and turned back slightly.</li></ul><li>2 (Doesn't he look...jolly</li><ul><li>Shallow Cloche type hat in black, with what appears to be a spare point or white ribbon around it.</li><li>Salmon doublet with very full sleeves, lined in yellow. The garment is fastened only on the waist and breast with red points.</li><li>Full hosen in red. The points are undone. </li><li>Thankfully, he is wearing a shirt.</li><li>Narrow black belt, and a purse shaped something like an Ulu</li><li>Black shoes</li></ul><li>3 (ready to drink!)</li><ul><li>Red Flat cap</li><li>Red hip length doublet, of close fit.</li><li>White hosen of atypical design, with a slashed roll at the thighs.</li><li>Additionally he has some kind of satchel <br /></li></ul><li>4 (Dancer</li><ul><li>Red ear cap</li><li>Hip length brown jacket. The sleeves are quite wide at the armscye, but the body is close to the waist. No pleats. There may be what would be called a "British suit vent", or may be backbody seams.</li><li>Amber brown short knee length hosen with codpiece. </li><li>Darker toned netherstocks/stockings</li></ul><li>5 (lounger</li><ul><li>Black cloche type hat</li><li>Knee length outer coat in black. Heavily pleated at the waist.</li><li>Brown hosen</li></ul><li>6</li><ul><li>Cloche type hat in black</li><li>Knee length, heavily pleated garment. Close fit to the waist. Amost Apricot in colour</li><li>Matching hosen</li></ul><li>7</li><ul><li>Black hat, cannot tell form</li><li>Red doublet</li><li>Black full hose</li><li>Grey, skirted jerkin. Skirts are clearly cut on and heavily pleated.</li><li>Black purse. <br /></li></ul><li>8</li><ul><li>Black hat</li><li>Brown doublet, crossover body type</li><li>Brown full hosen.</li><li>Shirt peaking out at waist</li><li>Black knee length outer coat, fully open at front.</li></ul><li>9 (Lady Hauler</li><ul><li>Brown hat. Flat cap?</li><li>Blue doublet with quite full sleeves</li><li>Red full hosen.</li></ul><li>10 (dancer </li><ul><li>Salmon coloured split brim hat.</li><li>Slightly darker doublet. The sleeves are full but with no gathering. Waist close fitted and down to the hip points.</li><li>He appears to wearing a cream coloured garment under that, perhaps a waistcoat. The bottom edges of the front opening are slightly radiused rather than sharp</li><li>Brown belt! Knife on left hip.</li><li>Full black hosen. There is a gap at the top above codpiece where the shirt shows through. Points are white.</li></ul><li>11 (Spinner</li><ul><li>Black tall hat.</li><li>Close fitting red doublet</li><li>Black outer waistcoat, lined in white. It is pointed shut at the neck, sternum, and waist.</li><li>Black full hosen</li></ul><li>12 (Many Layers!)<br /></li><ul><li>Shapeless black hat.</li><li>Brown calf-length outer coat fully lined in red. The sleeves are /very/ full, and pleated at both top and into a cuff. It appears to be double breasted. The Skirts are likewise extremely full and heavily pleated. Worn unfastened, but there is a single point showing at the left hip level.</li><li>Blue Doublet, fastened at waist and chest with points. Unusually, there is no gapping at the front opening.<br /></li><li>Red (possibly) waistcoat showing at the neckline and waist opening</li><li>Full white hosen</li><li>Narrow black belt worn low on hip.</li><li>Flemish style knife in brown sheath</li><li>Black shoes.</li></ul><li>13 (I like his style)<br /></li><ul><li>Black wide brim hat with flat crown. Brim turned up in back and sides.</li><li>Black coat, lined with tawny brown. Sleeves are quite full and pleated into the armscye, but not into a cuff. Length to low knee, and skirt pleated and cut on. The only visible fastening is a point at front waist.</li><li>Brown doublet, possibly of the double breasted form.</li><li>Brown full hosen, still gapping above the codpiece.<br /></li><li>Black shoes</li></ul><li>14</li><ul><li>Red Split brim hat</li><li>Brown coat of knee length. Sleeves are full and pleated into a cuff. May be double breasted as I see no front opening.</li><li>Black hosen?</li></ul><li>15</li><ul><li>Tan flat cap</li><li>Brown coat, moderate sleeved, with a heavily pleated cut on skirt</li></ul><li>16 </li><ul><li>Black cap</li><li>Red doublet</li><li>Darker red or russet waistcoat over</li></ul><li>17 (Done with party)</li><ul><li>Black wide brim hat</li><li>Long light grey outer garment</li><li>Black hose.</li></ul><li>18 (Line Dance?</li><ul><li>Black hat turned up at the back</li><li>Red doublet with close sleeves. Little longer than waist length</li><li>Full black hose. </li></ul><li>19</li><ul><li>Black wide brim hat, sides turned up</li><li>Grey Coat. Sleeves are very full, and may pleate into a cuff. Skirts heavily pleated.</li></ul><li>20<br /></li><ul><li>Small red knit coif.</li><li>Brown doublet of waist length. Mostly unfitted.</li><li>A white second garment of similar shape but hip length is underneath</li><li>Brown full hose.</li></ul><li>21</li><ul><li>Black split brim hat</li><li>Light brown very full coat, coming to the calf</li><li>Red Doublet</li></ul><li>22 (Snogger</li><ul><li>Red wide flat cap</li><li>Tan full sleeved doublet</li><li>Red hosen</li></ul><li>23 (Observer</li><ul><li>Black cloche hat</li><li>Tan coat of calf length, heavily gathered sleeves and pleated skirts</li><li>Black hosen</li><li>Narrow black belt, with a couple accessories dangling</li></ul><li>24 (The Piper</li><ul><li>White...bucket...hat</li><li>Red Jerkin. There is clearly a cut on skirt. </li><li>White full sleeved doublet</li><li>Blue codpiece</li><li>Narrow belt, and messer.</li></ul><li>25 (Why is the ale always gone?</li><ul><li>Beanie type black hat with brim turned up</li><li>Long black coat</li><li>Black hosen</li></ul><li>26 (Publician, Back to Left side</li><ul><li>Black coif type hat</li><li>Brown doublet, with close fitting sleeves</li><li>White apron</li></ul><li>27</li><ul><li>Black narrow brim hat</li><li>Red Waistcoat over</li><li>Dark Black doublet</li><li>Lighter Black hosen.</li></ul><li>28 (Piper the Second</li><ul><li>Blue wide brim hat worn over<br /></li><li>Red coif. </li><li>Blue upper garment with full sleeves.</li></ul></ul></ul><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiI1Y3sBJyPUqO9quhlQu0ihSPV8OI6_SPM-Vv7Y17V8it51w5Yb2j-J8QCDIoR7MDXJEX2dednqwYlK-4p8TQ_6GYv9Lp1yWtFxbIo8tmHhazc5u0QTEfFOl-egb1wc89Ys6vhqpRE5nQgnRoR5HPn6EO4hfhwzqyeyZEKXs0O5w3Uh7UURxaebFB8Vbw/s1563/Pieter_Bruegel_the_Elder_-_Peasant_Wedding%20-%20Copy.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="1563" height="221" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiI1Y3sBJyPUqO9quhlQu0ihSPV8OI6_SPM-Vv7Y17V8it51w5Yb2j-J8QCDIoR7MDXJEX2dednqwYlK-4p8TQ_6GYv9Lp1yWtFxbIo8tmHhazc5u0QTEfFOl-egb1wc89Ys6vhqpRE5nQgnRoR5HPn6EO4hfhwzqyeyZEKXs0O5w3Uh7UURxaebFB8Vbw/s320/Pieter_Bruegel_the_Elder_-_Peasant_Wedding%20-%20Copy.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><p></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><a href="https://www.khm.at/en/objectdb/detail/330/" target="_blank">The Peasant Wedding</a>, 1568</li><ul><li>1 (More beer! I really like this outfit.<br /></li><ul><li>Black hat with a corner at the front, and back edge turned up. You could use the <a href="https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/scholars-cap" target="_blank">Sally Pointer Scholar cap pattern</a>, and modify it to only have one corner.</li><li>Knee length coat in dark green. The sleeves are moderately full, gathered into the armscye. Unusually, there is a short standing collar, and the garment is clearly double breasted. Lined with a lighter green fabric.</li><li>Red doublet.</li><li>Black full hosen.</li></ul><li>2 (Far piper</li><ul><li>Greyish, sheeps black hat. It is roughly domed with a wider brim at front and back. He has a feather in it.</li><li>Doublet is tan, hip length with cut on skirt, and clearly shows the seams. Some fullness to the sleeves.</li><li>Medium brown full hosen</li><li>Narrow black belt worn loose. There is a short example of a messer hanging from it, with a black hilt and knucklebow. I like it.</li></ul><li>3 (Piper the closer)</li><ul><li>Black cloche hat. With coins dangling from the brim?</li><li>Red doublet with full sleeves pleated into a wide cuff.</li><li>Shirt is untucked?</li><li>White full hosen, with garters worn. </li><li>The garters appear to be woven red and white, and tied in a bow behind the knee. I have not spotted garters worn before.</li><li>Interestingly, both pipers have what seems to be a spare set of points tied to the longest pipe on their instruments.</li></ul><li>4 (Red Shepherd</li><ul><li>Red close fitted doublet</li><li>Red hose. Both garments matching is unusual, other than black.</li><li>A traveler's bag which is in Swedish called a Fässing bag, or market wallet. Simple canvas bag split in the middle to stick your head through if wanted. (<a href="https://handcraftedhistory.blog/tag/medieval-bag/">https://handcraftedhistory.blog/tag/medieval-bag/</a>) </li></ul><li>5</li><ul><li>Black thrummed hat. Much like a low Monmouth cap.</li><li>Black Garment, cut on waist, hip length skirts and vented at the back</li><li>Black hosen</li></ul><li>6</li><ul><li>Black split brim cloche. Front turned up.</li><li>Brown jerkin or coat with long heavily pleated skirts</li></ul><li>7</li><ul><li>Red close cap</li><li>Dull brown doublet of simple shape</li><li>Wider belt than normal with a sheath hanging on right side.</li><li>Full hosen in brown.</li></ul><li>8 (More ale!)</li><ul><li>Greenish hat with a thickly knitted shallow brim.</li><li>Black coat, with very full sleeves, heavily pleated cut on skirts. <span data-offset-key="dkqtc-0-0"><span data-text="true">It also appears to be double breasted, lined with brown</span></span></li><li>Narrow black belt hanging to the left.</li></ul><li>9 (Cook 1</li><ul><li>Red hat with what is best described as a visor. Interestingly, a spare set of points are tied around the visor. <br /></li><li>Light blue jacket, moderate sleeves, cut on skirts with no pleats.</li><li>White apron. Appears to be a rectangle with strings coming off the top corners to tie it in place.</li><li>Green hosen.</li><li>Black shoes.</li></ul><li>10</li><ul><li>Black cap, fairly rounded, and extended in the back.</li><li>Grey coat with quite full sleeves gathered into a wide cuff, and double breasted. Three buttons hinted at at the shoulder.<br /></li></ul><li>11 (server</li><ul><li>Red knit coif, with faint corners showing caused by increasing at the same point each round. The hat itself is round however. </li><li>Tan coat of the double breasted kind. You can see a set of buttons at the shoulder seam. Sleeves are long and gathered into armscye. Lined with a brighter green.</li><li>Brown full hosen? I don't believe there is room for another person there, but the legs appear offset</li></ul><li>12 (Server 2<br /></li><ul><li>Black hat with the back brim turned up, and a wooden spoon stuck in.</li><li>Red doublet</li><li>Hip length shirt untucked.</li><li>Black full hose.</li></ul></ul></ul><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiX9ODetR-cD1pMGyPekA3Esu0WeG2aLfXfnJJyKsHESqc1Q-lemV4xny6ZdEgNVjl7bmRSl7bGcTzFxNhE83r_dIKL9pyPrVhNx1TsMtr45Dv6asTLRkaBxkCuGATm2494OQrOqv8oZ16twlTj_0MHUxUV_gOby994gTj7MzYAem_GPH_jRDe2o7jFrj8/s1551/Pieter_Bruegel_the_Elder_-_The_Peasant_Dance.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="1551" height="223" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiX9ODetR-cD1pMGyPekA3Esu0WeG2aLfXfnJJyKsHESqc1Q-lemV4xny6ZdEgNVjl7bmRSl7bGcTzFxNhE83r_dIKL9pyPrVhNx1TsMtr45Dv6asTLRkaBxkCuGATm2494OQrOqv8oZ16twlTj_0MHUxUV_gOby994gTj7MzYAem_GPH_jRDe2o7jFrj8/s320/Pieter_Bruegel_the_Elder_-_The_Peasant_Dance.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><p></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><a href="https://www.khm.at/en/objectdb/detail/331/?lv=detail" target="_blank">The Peasant Dance</a>, 1568</li><ul><li>1. Not much is visible on him<br /></li><ul><li>Grey Coat, calf length with very full sleeves with cuff.</li><li>Light grey hosen</li></ul><li> 2</li><ul><li>Black knit beanie. Stitching is visible.</li><li>Light tan/grey outer garment, lined with green. Sleeves appear somewhat full.</li><li>Grey Double Breasted doublet</li></ul><li>3</li><ul><li>Blue hat of weird type. It looks much like the visored style, but there's some segmenting going on and odd folds.</li><li>Black outer garment, lined with red. Double breasted and the sleeves very full. The sleeves are only forearm length and gathered into a narrow cuff, which I haven't spotted before.<br /></li><li>Black doublet or similar</li><li>Black hosen</li></ul><li>4 (Red Snogger</li><ul><li>Red knit coif</li><li>Red doublet with full sleeves</li><li>Brown hosen</li></ul><li>5 (Musician</li><ul><li>Black knit hat shaped quire straight with a flared top. The brim is split and turned up in front. He has a coin dangling from it.<br /></li><li>Additionally wearing a white coif.</li><li>White doublet with moderate sleeves. Pointing eyelets are visible.<br /></li><li>Another white garment slightly longer worn under, with a narrow collar</li><li>Dirty white or buff half hosen, coming only to mid-thigh.</li><li>Blue-green netherstocks</li><li>Other those, white stockings in heavy wool or leather.</li><li>Black shoes with visible fastening.</li><li>Left handed messer with byknife. It's lovely.<br /></li></ul><li>6 (No personal space dude</li><ul><li>Black tiny flat cap with peacock feather in</li><li>Red Waistcoat, pointed at the neckline<br /></li><li>White upper garment, likely only hip length or so. Sleeves are fairly full.</li><li>Finely fitted black hosen, with one red garter on the right leg.</li></ul><li>7 (Dancer</li><ul><li>Black knit hat with a brim and flat top</li><li>Blue Jerkin with full and heavily pleated skirts to mid calf. Double Breasted</li><li>White doublet</li><li>Brown hosen. There is something unusual going on with the left foot, where it looks like the hosen are over the shoes, like spats; this may be a pair of netherstocks, as I see a seam mid thigh. He has a white garter on the visible leg.</li></ul><li>8 (Dancer 2</li><ul><li>Black hat with a spoon stuck in.</li><li>Black coat, only hip length, with a pieced and cut on skirt. Sleeves are gathered into a forearm length cuff, but aren't particularly large. You can see there is a slight drop shoulder.</li><li>Slightly longer red garment underneath that.</li><li>White hosen</li><li>A lovely messer with knuckle bow, and a ornamental tip to the scabbard</li><li>Black and brown purse with three rings dangling from it is visible underneath the red garment.</li></ul><li>9 (Dancer 3</li><ul><li>Red Slouchy flat cap</li><li>Grey doublet, pointed at the waist and neck. Sleeves moderate. Red lining peeking out at neck.</li><li>White shirt</li><li>Red hosen, completely unpointed</li><li>Narrow black belt with simple knife dangling</li></ul><li>10 (Back to left of painting)</li><ul><li>Black hat</li><li>Grey long coat with heavily gathered sleeveheads. Lined in Green. </li><li>White Doublet</li></ul><li>11</li><ul><li>Black Flat cap worn to side</li><li>Grey long doublet</li></ul><li>12 (Public indecency offender<br /></li><ul><li>Black hat</li><li>Dark grey outer garment, with heavily gathered sleeveheads. Something black around the neck, either a scarf, or I think revers/wide collar in the coat.</li></ul></ul></ul><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxcgroShyV5WQjefo8DKkjLWOYGPrBhKoiSSu4y9bdQAmC6WdmwO28L5jP03-LiCRbh1W5t3-bCTxR2qM1TZuZBoQDx2fecmf8XnVesjDseelBGa3H7HwaBwlY3j6U8gRtkhXw2ZW_wFIAlADWyodJke3S0ZqMnBa6WsrXDvZgnTURG3ABiAOIfynt_V4/s3200/Land%20of%20Cockaigne%20-%20Copy.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2081" data-original-width="3200" height="208" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxcgroShyV5WQjefo8DKkjLWOYGPrBhKoiSSu4y9bdQAmC6WdmwO28L5jP03-LiCRbh1W5t3-bCTxR2qM1TZuZBoQDx2fecmf8XnVesjDseelBGa3H7HwaBwlY3j6U8gRtkhXw2ZW_wFIAlADWyodJke3S0ZqMnBa6WsrXDvZgnTURG3ABiAOIfynt_V4/s320/Land%20of%20Cockaigne%20-%20Copy.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><p></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Land_of_Cockaigne_(Bruegel)" target="_blank">The Land of Cockaigne</a>, 1567. While Allegorical as a morality piece, the clothing isn't unusual. Just ignore the soft boiled egg with legs...</li><ul><li>Sleeper on Flail</li><ul><li>White shirt, only to the hips. </li><li>Greyish hosen.</li></ul><li>Knight with Pillow</li><ul><li>Dark grey, closely fitted doublet</li><li>Red full hosen with horizontal black striped applied on the thighs.</li><li>The cushion is near identical to the one in A Gloomy Day</li></ul><li>Daydreamer</li><ul><li>Salmon doublet or waistcoat</li><li>Matching salmon full hosen.</li><li>Black, fur lined long coat. Details not visible</li><li>Black shoes, which may be slightly more pointed than the norm.</li><li>On a narrow belt appears to be a black case of some kind. Perhaps pen case, given the book next to him.</li></ul></ul></ul><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyT7QJM6XjqtYaAzdRCpFCWrQpcG2n0dXH9L9JJEETKDYXhXnObsn3FhughzzmCSbnO3hli-FeFKDQjyuZSWCek38mR_hZzZp5ILJztL9JVu7f6hOehdBqGENaGL4zaCxIH_kDWeKkwJmU4N79ssAfPgNTDiIL__LD_vzCYAkcX01v9GCwgKWTf1I00j0/s1147/Pieter_Bruegel_the_Elder_-_The_Census_at_Bethlehem_-_WGA03379.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="820" data-original-width="1147" height="229" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyT7QJM6XjqtYaAzdRCpFCWrQpcG2n0dXH9L9JJEETKDYXhXnObsn3FhughzzmCSbnO3hli-FeFKDQjyuZSWCek38mR_hZzZp5ILJztL9JVu7f6hOehdBqGENaGL4zaCxIH_kDWeKkwJmU4N79ssAfPgNTDiIL__LD_vzCYAkcX01v9GCwgKWTf1I00j0/s320/Pieter_Bruegel_the_Elder_-_The_Census_at_Bethlehem_-_WGA03379.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><p></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Census_at_Bethlehem" target="_blank">The Census at Bethleham</a>, 1566</li><ul><li>1</li><ul><li>Black hat of some sor</li><li>Bluish doublet</li><li>Brown full hosen</li></ul><li>2</li><ul><li>Black cap</li><li>Blue-grey long coat, gathered at armscye and heavily pleated.</li><li>He appears to be wearing both a sword, and satchel.</li></ul><li>3</li><ul><li>Black cap</li><li>Brown long coat; moderate, ungathered sleeves, and grown on skirts.</li></ul><li>4</li><ul><li>Black cap</li><li>Close fitting upper garment in dark brown, slit in the back, and butt length.</li><li>Black full hosen</li></ul><li>5 (Atypical clothing)<br /></li><ul><li>Tan cap</li><li>White garment of knee length bloused over the belt slightly.</li><li>Belt with large pouch</li><li>Blueish hosen.</li><li>Carrying what appears to be a hockey stick?</li></ul><li>6</li><ul><li>Black hat</li><li>Brown coat, pleated in the rear, and with sleeves gathered top and bottom</li><li>Black hosen?</li></ul><li>7</li><ul><li>Dark grey cap</li><li>Black long jerkin with pleated back (Henrican!)</li><li>Grey coat, sleeves only visible.</li></ul><li>8</li><ul><li>Black cap over red knit coif</li><li>Grey with ungathered sleeves. Pinch pleated at the center back seam, rather than separate skirts. </li><li>He is wearing a slightly longer, matching garment in brown under.</li><li>A sword or messer is peeking between the two layers, the only reason I concluded there are two garments there.<br /></li><li>Black or charcoal full hosen</li></ul><li>9</li><ul><li>Black cap over red coif</li><li>Grey knee length coat, no apparent gathers or pleats</li><li>Brown full hosen.</li></ul><li>10</li><ul><li>Greyish cap</li><li>Different grey coat, past knee length. I am thinking this is double breasted.</li></ul><li>11</li><ul><li>Black hat, brim appears wider in front.</li><li>Grey coat of knee length with moderately narrow sleeves. Fastened only at the to, and with no visible gathers, although it may have pinch pleats at the back.</li><li>Dark Brown hosen.</li></ul></ul></ul><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6Sxx5vaQpduqXf6FcAm9mXtp1e4h9cfwKDLEnuZ5C7DF-x2RW6qxWKpUVNYv7mLUI1HUEOBTxj2ssH3dAwblYcHM8yD8dUNveMCY6PRBNQCUo1xH6CkchMBvKBsGlgpPqStVOYPvm7QFwhUhGcXCdigbXvdkM0vbdIWK-QdKxFCtcn7hvU-d8K5QObv0/s1080/Anbetung_der_K%C3%B6nige_(Bruegel,_1564)_%E2%80%93_cropped.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="807" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6Sxx5vaQpduqXf6FcAm9mXtp1e4h9cfwKDLEnuZ5C7DF-x2RW6qxWKpUVNYv7mLUI1HUEOBTxj2ssH3dAwblYcHM8yD8dUNveMCY6PRBNQCUo1xH6CkchMBvKBsGlgpPqStVOYPvm7QFwhUhGcXCdigbXvdkM0vbdIWK-QdKxFCtcn7hvU-d8K5QObv0/s320/Anbetung_der_K%C3%B6nige_(Bruegel,_1564)_%E2%80%93_cropped.jpg" width="239" /></a></div><p></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Adoration_of_the_Kings_(Bruegel)" target="_blank">Adoration of the Kings in the Snow</a>, 1567. While this is a fully religious and stylized painting with consequently funky clothing, there is a pair of more normally dressed guys in the back. Because the painting is so clear, you can catch a couple of details you wouldn't otherwise.</li><ul><li>1 (Crossbowman. Probably not a Flemish peasant, based on the existence of facial hair<br /></li><ul><li>Brown cap with the brim turned up. He has a spare crossbow-bolt stuck in it.</li><li>Blue tightly fitted hood coming to points in front and presumably back. It is close about the neck and covers the chin. You can see that there is a knot or self button at the front tip, which is tucked into his belt. I wantses one.<br /></li><li>Russet red outer coat. Both top and bottom of the sleeves are well gathered, and the skirts are pleated all the way around. I estimate it is calf length.</li><li>Mittens! Possibly fur.</li><li>The (narrow black) belt clearly shows a double lobed buckle, and has little tongue left over. He appears to be wearing two belts, with one slung low and holding a sword(?).</li><li>Brown or worn black tall boots? <br /></li></ul><li>2 (Old guy observing</li><ul><li>Straw or brown hat.<br /></li><li>Mouse grey coat, with quite moderate sleeves. No features such as pleats are visible. There appears to be a slight drop shoulder. Front fastening appears to have been done by overlapping the fronts slightly and fastening with a plain pin at neckline and sternum.<br /></li><li>Narrow black belt with a simple Annular type buckle. The tongue is tucked behind, and not knotted or left to dangle.</li></ul></ul></ul><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj09RKwyGAx8xLqvIxM4LHiTjp6Kang2nEYIvVsdF0RDb5nZtWLAZxIi-bnq1BYHYLpoIzobBfNp-t40i5dMjEpfbFUuYTurISQ2pih_UrXJRXw0MmNi7OzWjNRlQTMRgOn1CpDOeg6tqGFJua5zONiBtGvWvL7mGCQjqmXE6ZQkKIU_y8KcBWrQ-00Se4/s1842/Pieter_Bruegel_the_Elder_-_The_Sermon_of_Saint_John_the_Baptist.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="1842" height="188" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj09RKwyGAx8xLqvIxM4LHiTjp6Kang2nEYIvVsdF0RDb5nZtWLAZxIi-bnq1BYHYLpoIzobBfNp-t40i5dMjEpfbFUuYTurISQ2pih_UrXJRXw0MmNi7OzWjNRlQTMRgOn1CpDOeg6tqGFJua5zONiBtGvWvL7mGCQjqmXE6ZQkKIU_y8KcBWrQ-00Se4/s320/Pieter_Bruegel_the_Elder_-_The_Sermon_of_Saint_John_the_Baptist.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><p></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Sermon_of_Saint_John_the_Baptist_(Bruegel)" target="_blank">The Sermon of Saint John the Baptist</a>, 1566. As another biblical piece, the vast majority of the figures are not wearing garments of use to this research, even if most are not fantastical as in yesterday's painting. As such researchers of other cultures may find things of interest, and I will try to note a few. Sadly, the best figures for this study are all climbing trees in the background and not the most detailed.<br /></li><ul><li>1</li><ul><li>Red cap.</li><li>White doublet with moderate sleeves.</li><li>Dark coloured (Greyish blue, perhaps) loose trousers, not hosen.</li></ul><li>2 </li><ul><li>Grey cap</li><li>White doublet, or perhaps just his shirt, belted.</li><li>Red full hosen.</li></ul><li>3</li><ul><li>Black cap with a front brim</li><li>Black doublet</li><li>White full hose.</li></ul><li>4 (Slightly wealthier than norm, but older and could be a wealthy farmer?</li><ul><li>Black cap with rear brim turned down and slouchy front</li><li>Charcoal Long coat with full sleeves, lined in what may be fur.</li><li>Lovely trapezoidal purse with two straps.</li></ul><li>5</li><ul><li>Short black thrum cap</li><li>Brown coat, simple and with a short vent in back. It does, however, appear to have a hood.</li><li>Black belt with knife to the left.</li></ul></ul></ul><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUvrqE24zBX7iffy5h_be1kPUas7hF_-vtI7Ap-6T0NoEm9JJYWQrXvyQmqijYS64-bRaOaIn_HXLvEGn8ZgroGfSy1dmiD6Fh9Dd8nOx2g8fnYrHkhYmbuH9wVgwWgiCBGwcG361Znkz_6EhqUEj2X4Flb0D6krSXegpQ2IeSAnakeMFNVUA27QSaq1o/s1294/Les_Mendiants_-_Pieter_Brueghel_l'Ancien_-_Mus%C3%A9e_du_Louvre_Peintures_RF_730%20-%20Copy.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="1294" height="267" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUvrqE24zBX7iffy5h_be1kPUas7hF_-vtI7Ap-6T0NoEm9JJYWQrXvyQmqijYS64-bRaOaIn_HXLvEGn8ZgroGfSy1dmiD6Fh9Dd8nOx2g8fnYrHkhYmbuH9wVgwWgiCBGwcG361Znkz_6EhqUEj2X4Flb0D6krSXegpQ2IeSAnakeMFNVUA27QSaq1o/s320/Les_Mendiants_-_Pieter_Brueghel_l'Ancien_-_Mus%C3%A9e_du_Louvre_Peintures_RF_730%20-%20Copy.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><p></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Beggars" target="_blank">The Beggars</a>, 1568</li><ul><li>1</li><ul><li>Black waistcoat, fastened at the neckline and I believe chest with points.</li><li>Yellow doublet, narrow but not tightly sleeved.</li><li>Blue full hosen.</li></ul><li>2</li><ul><li>Greyish lower cap with slight brim. It appears to be thrummed or otherwise fuzzy.</li><li>Black waistcoat</li><li>Grey doublet</li><li>Red short hose</li><li>Lower legs covered by grey netherstocks</li><li>He has a brown leather purse on the hip, with points hanging off of it.</li></ul><li>3 (Morris Dancer</li><ul><li>Black coif tied under the chin</li><li>Very furry hat or something over that.</li><li>Black jacket over a greyish one. Both are only hip length or so.</li><li>Grey full hose.</li><li>Oddly, he is wearing a set of Morris dancer's bells on his claves.</li><li>Black shoes.</li></ul><li>4 (The Bishop</li><ul><li>Light grey hip length doublet.</li><li>Green knee length hosen</li><li>White or buff netherstocks.</li><li>Additionally, he appears to have either a costrel or more likely, his bowl/plate hanging from a shoulder strap.</li></ul></ul></ul><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxsOFZGCscxVL7boW62xRc2P93i7nWz5xMpO-6xvnrbms0XA0FyfL-Qr0rCwDMQG34atB9RevKgffEaKgAUAK-TZAjNekJNus-nCCikWXltyZAcsOgL-3OFtqzvTVOMAQ40e_lfP1kcVydfeReM7Aw_TT3HQGy1PEbevtGbg0RNwVXeII_CPfBzKScG74/s521/Magpie%20Closeup.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="372" data-original-width="521" height="228" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxsOFZGCscxVL7boW62xRc2P93i7nWz5xMpO-6xvnrbms0XA0FyfL-Qr0rCwDMQG34atB9RevKgffEaKgAUAK-TZAjNekJNus-nCCikWXltyZAcsOgL-3OFtqzvTVOMAQ40e_lfP1kcVydfeReM7Aw_TT3HQGy1PEbevtGbg0RNwVXeII_CPfBzKScG74/s320/Magpie%20Closeup.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Closeup of Lower Left, where all the people are.<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><a href="https://bruegel.vlaamsekunstcollectie.be/en/artwork/magpie-gallows" target="_blank">The Magpie on the Gallows</a>, 1568</li><ul><li>1</li><ul><li>Black bucket type hat.</li><li>White Coat with moderate sleeves, of the pleat backed variety. This kind is rather cool ,and can be found in Marion McNealy's Drie Schnittbucher<br /></li><li>Full black hose.</li><li>There is a black lump I am thinking is a purse resting on his right thigh, and behind it is a bollock dagger.</li></ul><li>2</li><ul><li>Black hat. It is relatively shallow and with a narrow brim</li><li>Black doublet, loosely fitted and with slightly full sleeves. There is something odd going with the neckline; it almost appears rolled and slashed, but you have to zoom waaay in.</li><li>Full red hose.</li><li>Messer</li></ul><li>3 (Dancer</li><ul><li>Black flat hat with narrow flat brim</li><li>Brown doublet</li><li>Full white hose, with a red garter on right leg and red points.</li><li>Black purse.</li></ul><li>4</li><ul><li>Looks like a bucket hat again. Black</li><li>Black doublet</li><li>Black or extremely dark blue full hosen.</li></ul><li>5 (Piper</li><ul><li>Brown waistcoat</li><li>Blue doublet with quite full sleeves</li><li>Brown hose matching waistcoat.</li></ul><li>6</li><ul><li>Red hat of unknown variety</li><li>Red doublet. The shirt is peeking out at the front, below the waist.</li><li>Black Hosen appear to be loose, almost poofy. The detail isn't all that great, but the outline makes it appear to be like long galligaskins.</li></ul><li>7 (way in the background<br /></li><ul><li>Black hat</li><li>Grey coat with heavily pleated cut on skirt, and full sleeves.</li></ul></ul></ul><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGnPLpTMND3xZGUjrwsiIz0PLCQk8ygjqOMeiELblf3j6vGMwgfzzm0wMVfJ68K1nefkeRyvJ9s3bVzX9T4Rtm2S2qCb-an1Y_p3PzT0JnL2BXBVqygB8htpET7TRys4hcy-IzVWYY7EBZZx_FTxr3eA5M6O03cLfNAOfP_QGhXE5XmYxNVX1Mt-NFpKQ/s1918/Parable%20of%20the%20Blind_Bruegel%20-%20Copy.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="1918" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGnPLpTMND3xZGUjrwsiIz0PLCQk8ygjqOMeiELblf3j6vGMwgfzzm0wMVfJ68K1nefkeRyvJ9s3bVzX9T4Rtm2S2qCb-an1Y_p3PzT0JnL2BXBVqygB8htpET7TRys4hcy-IzVWYY7EBZZx_FTxr3eA5M6O03cLfNAOfP_QGhXE5XmYxNVX1Mt-NFpKQ/s320/Parable%20of%20the%20Blind_Bruegel%20-%20Copy.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><p></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Blind_Leading_the_Blind" target="_blank">Parable of the Blind</a>, 1568. Working left to right, you have 5 figures of blind men in relatively fine clothing, which is coded as being that of pilgrims or travelers.<br /></li><ul><li>1</li><ul><li>Grey broad brim hat with the front turned up and secured by a cord.</li><li>Under that is a blue coif.</li><li>White cassock is being worn. There is a narrow standing collar, very full but unpleated body--likely cut as a portion of a circle/ Sleeves are quite moderate. Secured at the neck with a point.</li><li>Grey doublet.</li><li>Brown full hosen.</li><li>He has a satchel of some kind, although it only shows as a lump and a strap at the chest. <br /></li></ul><li>2</li><ul><li>Green low knitted hat, slightly fuzzy, with a brim</li><li>Black cloak, with narrow collar. Fastened with a single point at the neck<br /></li><li>Red coat, which appears to be thigh length and fairly close fitted. The front opening does not appear to open all the way, and I am uncertain of the fastening. It also has a small standing collar.</li><li>White full hose.</li><li>For accessories he has a cross/rosary, what appears to be a bowl and small funnel hang from a belt, and a wicker something on his left side.</li></ul><li>3. He has many layers, and I will go from outside in.<br /></li><ul><li>Grey cap with white edging. The hat has a wide brim in the front, and runs up in the back. </li><li>White coif under.</li><li>Light grey cloak of similar type to the last.</li><li>Black waistcoat, barely waist length. The armscyes are huge, and it gaps heavily at the front. It is only fastened at neck and possibly waist with points. Lined with a reddish brown?<br /></li><li>Green jerkin, thigh length, and with narrower armscyes than the waistcoat. It also is fastened only at the waist and neck, if that. I feel it's possible that it's held in place by the belt and the point of the waistcoat.</li><li>White "tunic" underneath. Sleeves are moderate, it has a front slit but no apparent front opening (although it could be a double breasted one). Comes to just above the knee.</li><li>Knee length black hose, possibly without codpiece.</li><li>Red stockings worn to the knee and rolled down.</li><li>His walking stick appears to have a nail in the end for traction.</li><li>He wears a belt and a baldric, both narrow, black, and with an annualar type buckle, although that of the baldric does appear slightly more D shaped.</li><li>Black frame purse. You can see stitching whipping the bag to the frame.</li><li>Unknown rectangular hard case?</li></ul><li>4</li><ul><li>Black coif</li><li>Light Grey broad brim felt cap (held in hand)</li><li>White Cloak with Dark brown/grey secondary cape. Fastened at the neckline with a single point.</li><li>Black or dark blue (?) coat, thigh length. It appears quite full, as though made for someone larger than him. Lined with goose turd green, and fastened at the neck with a point.</li><li>Grey doublet underneath.</li><li>White full hosen.</li><li>Interestingly, he is wearing shin guards strapped on, which I would assume are heavy leather, but could easily be wood, with the bark on at that. </li><li>For accessories, you can clearly see his beggin bowl at waist, a rosary, and a small knife with a metal sheath tip--an unusual detail.</li></ul><li>5</li><ul><li>Black knit bucket hat</li><li>White coif</li><li>Light blue grey, sleeveless, outer garment which is rather rough in cut. The armscye is barely shaped at all. Mid thigh in length and with a slight slit at the back. You can see eyelets at the neckline for closure.</li><li>Greyish (more purple than above) coat. Sleeves are surprisingly short and close fit. Slightly longer than the outer layer.</li><li>Hints of a dark grey doublet underneath, peeking out at the wrist</li><li>White full hose.</li></ul><li>6</li><ul><li>Broad brim light brown hat.</li><li>Light brown cloak, pointed at the neck.<br /></li><li>Short sleeved outer garment in red. Details are not great, but it appears to be relatively loose fitted and with sleeves about a handspan long. </li><li>Golden yellow doublet with fairly full sleeves.</li><li>He appears to be wearing three different leg coverings; a grey pair of shorts; a blue/brown something covering from that hem to below the knee, where it is rolled up. And white stockings, rolled down slightly. The latter two may be pinned at the sides of the knee.</li></ul></ul></ul><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjq6hMEAqLnJnD43-GflNtujmVXzB82scUPJwi6J6gRoAPmAL2j1gOOQPTPwbrlVl44SQaUVJL2loNfbxhMD6cEcBA7NbT9lwSu6y9aLnrQa0ohdBEsFVzsu0dc9YXbvxAhdKII3PfC8bI0lhkiF2Axhn5y_lsHitY2BN8L2zBrvCZg_xhdhOvmRj13GLo/s1093/The%20Misanthrope.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="1093" height="316" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjq6hMEAqLnJnD43-GflNtujmVXzB82scUPJwi6J6gRoAPmAL2j1gOOQPTPwbrlVl44SQaUVJL2loNfbxhMD6cEcBA7NbT9lwSu6y9aLnrQa0ohdBEsFVzsu0dc9YXbvxAhdKII3PfC8bI0lhkiF2Axhn5y_lsHitY2BN8L2zBrvCZg_xhdhOvmRj13GLo/s320/The%20Misanthrope.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><p></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Misanthrope_(Bruegel)" target="_blank">The Misanthrope</a>, 1568. There isn't a lot which is helpful in this painting, as it only contains two--perhaps three (counting the tiny shepherd in the back)--figures, and one is in atypical clothing.</li><ul><li>1 (The Misanthrope</li><ul><li>Blue/black liripipe hood. I have never seen one in this century before.</li><li>Ground length black cloak.</li><li>Brown leather purse. The purse appears to be on a rather long and insecure cord. It is a drawstring style, with several tendril coming off the sides which I cannot interpret.</li></ul><li>2 (The Thief</li><ul><li>Grey upper body garment, no extra fabric nor signs of a front opening.</li><li>Grey full hosen, or the remains thereof.</li><li>His knife is relatively broad bladed, but no other details are visible. <br /></li></ul><li>3 (Shepherd in the background</li><ul><li>Blue grey cap.</li><li>Glue grey Doublet, waist length, with moderate sleeves.</li><li>Matching full hosen.</li><li>His shepherds crook at this time is shaped more like a hockey stick than what we would consider a crook. It looks quite similar to those being used by the people actually playing hockey in The Winter Landscape.</li></ul></ul></ul><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFV-sAOOBwDHV-AZ9AH2mvzvz5fF1-3ug9VGnnkbMaus1QTpmcqIBU-ayIYvnFxxOhKj3Sl2JYfpmHy6-H0eI_10HTrPRHRwY5WKIbcyompv6ibNMmyUqtq2AOS1BGVLmo_O6raSy6CWCiQ8hJctUTYiPU3LzE9GQMpGiE9JY9UB1Aq-LfyknK0sDah0Q/s1252/The_Peasant_and_the_Birdnester_Pieter_Bruegel_the_Elder_1568.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="1252" height="276" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFV-sAOOBwDHV-AZ9AH2mvzvz5fF1-3ug9VGnnkbMaus1QTpmcqIBU-ayIYvnFxxOhKj3Sl2JYfpmHy6-H0eI_10HTrPRHRwY5WKIbcyompv6ibNMmyUqtq2AOS1BGVLmo_O6raSy6CWCiQ8hJctUTYiPU3LzE9GQMpGiE9JY9UB1Aq-LfyknK0sDah0Q/s320/The_Peasant_and_the_Birdnester_Pieter_Bruegel_the_Elder_1568.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><p></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><a href="https://www.khm.at/en/objectdb/detail/329/" target="_blank">The Peasant and the Nest Robber</a>, 1568</li><ul><li>The Peasant</li><ul><li>Tan hat with a small upturn at the front.</li><li>Brown jacket, hip length and loosely fitted. There may be hints of a waist seam. The sleeves are full, and gathered at the shoulder. For once, it is actually closed properly at the front, and neatly pointed. The points are white and tied with the standard single loop.</li><li>Grey full hosen. This is detailed enough that you can see that the "sculptural" portion of the codpiece consists of four sections with three seams; two sides and two shaped middle pieces. The points holding the codpiece are thinner than those on the doublet (which are flat) and appear to be black.<br /></li><li>On his belt (narrow, black, with ridges along the edge, and slung low) is a small cow horn sealed at the top (Unknown purpose. Drinking horn suggested, but it doesn't look like one to me), and a lovely little knife, which appears to have a slab hilt construction. It appears to be hanging from a brass ring on the belt.<br /></li><li>I cannot tell what the sticklike object in his hand is.</li></ul><li>Nest Robber. <br /></li><ul><li>Cloche type hat in black (which fell off)</li><li>Blue full sleeved doublet. Waist length and fitted to the body, but with sleeves fully gathered. The gathering is behind the shoulder, which would allow more movement.</li><li>Red full hosen, unpointed for ease.</li></ul></ul></ul><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjr8cTqIAc_JZQkrv74Rwl6GRHEORpDv1yE0lsnYXkIUwElJhAK1VFH2DUqp_h7q_E2yMUKWJttvCuCHh5kopMreKqRy5LRTvQrdjWiCb2lK41lArkXMoPPFkl42crP0wje3fmdm2lExP_R5hpo1ovqrjCWnbNUZYUqepooZ_Lwjt5e_d7gYdEVS2GiVk/s541/Pieter_Brueghel_the_elder_-_1568_-_The_Drunkard_pushed_into_the_pigsty.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="533" data-original-width="541" height="315" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjr8cTqIAc_JZQkrv74Rwl6GRHEORpDv1yE0lsnYXkIUwElJhAK1VFH2DUqp_h7q_E2yMUKWJttvCuCHh5kopMreKqRy5LRTvQrdjWiCb2lK41lArkXMoPPFkl42crP0wje3fmdm2lExP_R5hpo1ovqrjCWnbNUZYUqepooZ_Lwjt5e_d7gYdEVS2GiVk/s320/Pieter_Brueghel_the_elder_-_1568_-_The_Drunkard_pushed_into_the_pigsty.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><p></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><ul><li><a href="https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Pieter_Brueghel_the_elder_-_1568_-_The_Drunkard_pushed_into_the_pigsty.jpg" target="_blank">The Drunkard Pushed into the Pigsty</a>, 1568. </li><ul><li>1; The Drunkard. Oddly, he seems to have a rope tied around his ankle.<br /></li><ul><li>Closer fitting off white doublet, with no extra fullness to the sleeves.</li><li>Off White full hosen.</li><li>Kidney type purse on a narrow belt. The purse appears to heave a heart engraved on the flap.<br /></li></ul><li>2</li><ul><li>Green cloche type hat.</li><li>Green doublet with moderate sleeves.</li></ul><li>3; Pusher</li><ul><li>Sheeps black cloche style hat.</li><li>Brown Long outer garment. I think... It appears his leg is stick through the skirts, which you can see around it. Maybe knee length or so. Sleeves are fairly full, with extra length.</li><li>Brown full hosen.</li></ul></ul></ul></ul><p> </p><p> </p><p> </p><p> </p><p> </p><p> </p><p>Disclaimer: All artwork belongs to its respective museums, and most if not all images were pulled from Wikipedia, which has a friendly downloader. In most cases, higher resolution images can be found. </p><p><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">©
John Frey, 2024. The Author of this work retains full copyright for this
material. Permission is granted to make
and distribute verbatim copies of this document for non-commercial private
research or educational purposes provided the copyright notice and this
permission notice are preserved on all copies</span></span></p>Brann mac Finnchadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04614813862245766203noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2468874881802139741.post-78653912622802947512023-07-22T22:36:00.079-08:002024-02-17T10:53:43.225-09:00A Procrastinated Pair of Round Hose<p><span> </span>Some years ago, in the Pre-Covid times, I decided I wanted to make a plain suit of Elizabethans. Something from the very end of Elizabeth's reign, and suitable for working in; setting up tents, fighting, maybe some hiking, sitting in the tavern, etc. A suit of late period clothing where getting it dirty would only add to the character of the garments rather than spoiling them. In the end, I settled on a suit of round hose in wool broadcloth, and a doublet in another broadcloth or hemp/linen canvas. While the doublet is still in the works (but is actually being worked on!), I actually finished the round hose over a year ago; I just haven't had any motivation to write (acquiring a new, functional computer helped a bit, but that was purchased *mumble* months ago...). Wish me luck on this...I'm well out of practice on writing at all, never mind project documentation; thankfully, I took a fair amount of notes...but not enough.<br /></p><p><span> </span>The hose are, as said, made in common man's cloths and suitable for the tail end of the 1500s and into the 1600s.. Finding exemplars was more difficult than the norm for this period, as working class people aren't particularly popular subjects of paintings, and I additionally had a particular look in my head. In the end, the Samuel Pepys's Cries of London was a major resource and inspiration for both the hose and doublet forms.</p><p><span> </span>The Cries of London is a particular genre of artwork which often dealt with the lower classes of various cities (e.g London, Bologna). The term allegedly comes from the "Cries" or calls of the various traders as they tried to attract customers [Payne, abstract]. In the case of the examples collected by Samuel Pepys, the collection we know as gathered up to 100 years after publishing. The actual artist of these is unknown, as is the original date, although based on fashion style I estimate this example is from last quarter of the 16th century.<br /><br /></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9a_PYgRTfuYvPNWZ7EExeq7x5jkmKIgJxmT0sV4E3C_4AYwePFC_J5MHF9hnzSKKCOKGcU9-UluEjDpBVqIMLqHEtX_7yIdxqM_a9guUlood8STkfjy3eLyNXl4o31DzN2ocmOPIWJ5a5NThswZio2AXsD50GSI9UB2V0pxEUCkx1ViRFuKX9EjWj/s1026/Image286_2.webp" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1026" data-original-width="600" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9a_PYgRTfuYvPNWZ7EExeq7x5jkmKIgJxmT0sV4E3C_4AYwePFC_J5MHF9hnzSKKCOKGcU9-UluEjDpBVqIMLqHEtX_7yIdxqM_a9guUlood8STkfjy3eLyNXl4o31DzN2ocmOPIWJ5a5NThswZio2AXsD50GSI9UB2V0pxEUCkx1ViRFuKX9EjWj/s320/Image286_2.webp" width="187" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://spitalfieldslife.com/2013/02/21/samuel-pepys-cries-of-london/" target="_blank">From Spitalfields Life Blog</a><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><span><a name='more'></a></span><p><br /><span> </span>This particular fellow above is one of my best examples of what I was after; slightly more upper class; round hose as opposed to Venetians; and apparently for some reason I did not want Cannons on my hose--after so long since conception, I am not sure why I changed route, especially given my notes say I originally wanted the things; they make life with stockings easier. <br /></p><p><span> </span>Assuming they aren't either naked or wearing fantastical Roman armour, fencing manuals also make excellent exemplars for clothing, as in this plate from Di Grassi's <i>His True Arte of Defence, </i>showing a pair of simple, unpaned round hose.<i><br /></i></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj18R_tpu-AQCfmDNhmNpZJpUTc0ZUs27H1IXXVBAQwA4zDXa_6IDKH0r08M3zmw5FGHnq_utuj2TGIETy6p1KW9GVvEZ-dtHqWRy13uEtWXZSycUbm-Le0kpHxM7P4BOPa3ScTREohpU1L0KsErigSSaHuyin3GXtLj7W5fNTmJcvoCvxdn66DJ3BpODc/s800/800px-Di_Grassi_14.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="595" data-original-width="800" height="238" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj18R_tpu-AQCfmDNhmNpZJpUTc0ZUs27H1IXXVBAQwA4zDXa_6IDKH0r08M3zmw5FGHnq_utuj2TGIETy6p1KW9GVvEZ-dtHqWRy13uEtWXZSycUbm-Le0kpHxM7P4BOPa3ScTREohpU1L0KsErigSSaHuyin3GXtLj7W5fNTmJcvoCvxdn66DJ3BpODc/s320/800px-Di_Grassi_14.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"The offense of the high ward at rapier and dagger." Image 14 <br />in Di Grassi's <i>His True Arte of Defence <br /></i><a href="https://wiktenauer.com/wiki/File:Di_Grassi_14.jpg" target="_blank">From Wiktenauer. </a><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><h4 style="text-align: left;"> What is the Garment?<br /></h4><p><span> </span>At this point in the late 16th century, you see a fairly wide variety of hosen; round hose of various lengths with or without canons, galligaskins, Venetians, even a few pairs of trousers (usually on images of sailors). Of particular note is that the sculpted codpiece was on the way out as a part of fashion, allegedly due to Queen Elizabeth's fashion preferences, and by this point it had all but vanished in favour of what would eventually be referred to as a "French Fly" (as opposed to the more modest front fall). Granted, this took most of her reign to mostly disappear, but by the target period was all but gone and part of the reason for choosing this target date--while I have no issues wearing a codpiece, tying the points is a nuisance, especially in the dark and with cold fingers. </p><p><span> </span>{Side Note; The prior paragraph refers to the original target date of the 1590s-1600, which I suspect I missed after doing more research into the <i>Cries of London</i>.}<br /></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMc81EXdfvgz7c2m7gOXu-ptElK_Qr9TohIDGJ3j_JO6Wy64hN1LMSk4N1jDXu_wGBhzyuoJAP4jCh3AwgNERu2pZsP8UNdDPLmi8hUvryvyZf3vc1TMjBDGe-1rhq2RGmZUw-NCGPFcfpSls0fr_o5HtMDh2Gx1UOIX9aHRDPFIxWb8Cjz7dnfdAE/s585/jakob_seisenegger_erzherzog_ferdinand_von_tirol_1548_original.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="585" data-original-width="280" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMc81EXdfvgz7c2m7gOXu-ptElK_Qr9TohIDGJ3j_JO6Wy64hN1LMSk4N1jDXu_wGBhzyuoJAP4jCh3AwgNERu2pZsP8UNdDPLmi8hUvryvyZf3vc1TMjBDGe-1rhq2RGmZUw-NCGPFcfpSls0fr_o5HtMDh2Gx1UOIX9aHRDPFIxWb8Cjz7dnfdAE/s320/jakob_seisenegger_erzherzog_ferdinand_von_tirol_1548_original.jpg" width="153" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><div class="h3"><a href="https://www.habsburger.net/en/media/jakob-seisenegger-archduke-ferdinand-tyrol-1548" target="_blank">Jakob Seisenegger: Archduke Ferdinand of Tyrol, 1548</a></div></td></tr></tbody></table><p><span> </span>Round hose, also referred to as Trunkhose and--colloquially--Pumpkin Pants are just that: a garment covering the upper potion of the legs, with or without canons (the tube-like lower cuff covering from the bottom of the hose to the knee), and ranging from crotch length all the way to the knee. You begin to see them as a fairly smooth progression from the more fitted Almain hosen decorated with slash and puff earlier in the century, starting to get more and more round from the 1540s (visible in the painting of the Archduke, above), all the way into the early 17th century. Shapes varied from a heavily padded or bombasted round egg shape, all the way to a somewhat odd almost triangular profile where the hips weren't as proportionally full as the bottom of the legs, which could be heavily structured as in the Sir Richard Cotton suit and the one following it in <i>Patterns of Fashion 3<b> </b></i>[pp88-91]. Often, especially for fancier and upper class examples, the outermost layer of fabrics would be cut into individual panes, which you could see an addition layer of contrasting (usually) lining through. These might additionally be decorated via embroidery, slashing/pinking, <a href="https://abegg-stiftung.ch/en/exhibition/prunkvolles-fuerstenkostuem-aus-dresden/" target="_blank">lace</a>, applique, or stamping, and may or may not match the doublet.<br /></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKBJvC9RFqJ9SW3lHRpZwUuAmbGmEAfCsVN8ZjcIv9JYhfzzdml8_-HUanIgbprJyth6En4nubZd8ovfV5iLfx44BVCvyo9eAdUmw3qZlBNM67W2pRDjP0hMgdEHucPbSTrkYz7PNsmiAGAwE2YsHNTzU9MsScEGwQyUOKKNGWe5GZqwvRKQ2F5HzZ/s982/Cottonsuit.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="982" data-original-width="735" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKBJvC9RFqJ9SW3lHRpZwUuAmbGmEAfCsVN8ZjcIv9JYhfzzdml8_-HUanIgbprJyth6En4nubZd8ovfV5iLfx44BVCvyo9eAdUmw3qZlBNM67W2pRDjP0hMgdEHucPbSTrkYz7PNsmiAGAwE2YsHNTzU9MsScEGwQyUOKKNGWe5GZqwvRKQ2F5HzZ/s320/Cottonsuit.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O356786/doublet-and-trunk-unknown/" target="_blank">Sir Richard Cotton, made 1618</a></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><h4 style="text-align: left;">My Goals <br /></h4><p><span> </span>My
goals here were as stated in the introduction; relatively comfortable
and practical hosen in a certain style, albeit not copying a specific
piece of artwork or extant garment, and in as close to correct materials as I could. As such, I allowed myself a certain
degree of freedom from perfectly copying and documenting every feature,
although most were documented before inclusion. Looking back, I'm
finding that my overall form isn't perfectly analogous to the target
period--again, as I didn't slavishly copy an example--, but the methods of construction are, to the best of my knowledge and research. Given the gaps of
inactivity and life changes between conception and finishing the project, I
will take that as a win. There was also the factor that if I were to attempt to document every single detail with three independent source--as you ideally should--I would never actually finish the garment or this documentation. </p><p><span> </span>I did not have any Anti-Goals for this garment and suit; it was to be of as close to period correct materials as I can, period correct patterning, and methods of construction--i.e. handsewn. The only thing I did not want was for it to be fancy.<br /></p><h4 style="text-align: left;">Who <br /></h4><p><span> </span>I
was aiming for what I would call "lower-middle class". Blue-collar
workers, if you will; folks who have to work hard and not at a desk job,
but well off enough that they can afford clothing which isn't rags.
That said, it is perfectly plausible--especially as the suit ages--that it could
have been purchased second-hand and was originally made for the social
class above. I feel this is a decent justification for some of the
details of construction I included which are slightly less practical and
more fashionable, such as the various bits of padding I couldn't resist
playing with the construction of. </p><p></p><p><span> </span>I've
discussed the social class I had in mind...now it's time for the period
of history I was aiming for. I was targeting around the Death of
Elizabeth--the very end of the period covered by the SCA and flirting
with the dreaded Out of Period; 1590s-1605. Given the information I
just now processed on the Cries, I suspect I
missed and undershot by maybe 20 years if I were using the <i>Cries</i> as my main source, but it does fit stylistically with the Wams und Hosen pictured below.<br /></p><p><span> A question we often forget to ask is "W</span>here the wearer would have gotten the garment, and would it have been made specifically for the wearer?". While it is possible it could have been bespoke, I feel the garments would likely have been purchased premade, possibly with some slight alterations made to better the fit, and would eventually be passed down through the useful life of the articles--potentially decades, although mine are nowhere near worn enough for that particular impression. The possibility it would have been made by the wearer or family of the wearer is unlikely, I feel.<br /></p><h4 style="text-align: left;">Materials</h4><p><span> </span>Round hose in general could be made out of a wide gamut of fabrics found in Elizabethan England, ranging from various grades of wool to layers of pinked silks and velvets, with woolens in between. The internal linings seems to have often been of linen, and while the thought is foreign to modern sensibilities, could and would be removed and replaced when worn out. As for the wools--reading through <i>Clothes and Domestic Textiles in the Community of Staple and its Environs: Constructing the Forgotten Fabrics of the Sixteenth Century Yeoman </i>by Tamsyn Young (a fascinating study, which I recommend)--Broadcloth, Kersey, Worsted, and Russet are mentioned as being used for hosen, as is buckskin (having fully leather trunkhose would be AWESOME). The following definitions are from <i>The Typical Tudor</i> by <u>Jane Malcolm-Davies</u> and <u>Ninya Mikhaila</u>.<br /></p><ul style="text-align: left;"><li><span>Broadcloth; a relatively generic term for a wide woven woolen cloth, at least 58.5 inches between selvages. Often of higher quality and tightly fulled. The colour and weight varied.</span></li><li><span>Kersey: A twill woven woolen cloth. It was popular for hosen due to its stretchiness on the bias. (Author note: I suspect that hosen here means the closely fitted variety, rather than the sculpted later version I am making)</span></li><li><span>Worsted: A lightweight, usually twill cloth made of worsted long staple wool. In other words, it was relatively smooth and unfulled. <br /></span></li><li><span>Russet: A relatively coarse woolen cloth, made in "sheep's colours"...i.e. undyed. Noted as being particularly common for country folks and lower classes. </span></li></ul><p><span><span> </span>Other materials are, of course, also used, including linen and fustian [<i>Typical Tudor, pp83</i>]. The most common colours noted are "sheep colour" (which lines up neatly on the pie chart as a similar percentage as those made of russet), black, and white. </span></p><p><span></span></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlPXmUBclVlWwQ_kN8jXsjXWW34c1dUE-C3VeAQwAHOHznYoKPyCrNeUX-4m74DWJK0zB3nAK6z5P4aTwFDIqg2ufUt-bcb_wMBlMDwJo66RvU1XGH-rtw0nNnC7UoV7Pm2eGa7OfZvJKSoLqXymC0-6nEvSaIroA9reTzg-iNPlvnsZadbj-0PJxh/s529/Junker%20von%20Bodegg.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="529" data-original-width="419" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlPXmUBclVlWwQ_kN8jXsjXWW34c1dUE-C3VeAQwAHOHznYoKPyCrNeUX-4m74DWJK0zB3nAK6z5P4aTwFDIqg2ufUt-bcb_wMBlMDwJo66RvU1XGH-rtw0nNnC7UoV7Pm2eGa7OfZvJKSoLqXymC0-6nEvSaIroA9reTzg-iNPlvnsZadbj-0PJxh/s320/Junker%20von%20Bodegg.jpg" width="253" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hose und Wams, 1600-10, Zurich National Museum. <br /><p class="mb-0"><a href="https://sammlung.nationalmuseum.ch/de/list/collection?searchText=Wams&detailID=100056522">LM-2396.1-9</a></p></td></tr></tbody></table><span><br /><br /><span> </span>I ended up using a luscious black broadcloth from <a href="https://renaissancefabrics.net/" target="_blank">Renaissance Fabrics</a> as my outer and primary material. I believe it is the heavier offering which has a percentage of nylon, but am no longer sure (given it was purchased almost 5 years ago); regardless, it is absolutely a dream to sew and work with. When I originally designed the outfit, I went with black because it was a "safe" colour, later came into the thought that black wool would be uncommon as a harder to obtain colour with natural dyes, and now have been vindicated by the Tudor Tailor Team's survey showing black as a common hosen colour.<br /></span><p></p><p><span><span> </span>Other fabrics used in this project was a heavy linen for the lining shorts, deerskin split (purchased from Uncle Georges Discount Leather years ago and also used for the <a href="https://matsukazesewing.blogspot.com/2019/10/leather-party-pluderhose-documentation.html" target="_blank">Party Pluderhose</a> base shorts) used for pocketting, heavy fustian from <a href="https://periodfabric.com/" target="_blank">Period Fabrics</a> for interlinings, and raw cotton wool for padding along with a really crappy coarse woolenish (it's most likely fully synthetic).<br /></span></p><p><span><span> </span>Almost all of the sewing was done with various weights of black or white linen thread treated with beeswax, coad, or both, as is my preference. The exception is the buttonholes, which were sewn in silk buttonhole twist, from <a href="https://www.wmboothdraper.com/product-category/notions/thread/silk-thread/buttonhole-twist/" target="_blank">Wm. Booth</a>.<br /></span></p><h4 style="text-align: left;"><span>Construction</span></h4><p><span><span> </span>Now for the easy part of writing, with all the pictures! The pieces of the garment are fairly simple; each leg is roughly a trapezoidal shape, with cutouts for the front and back rise. Both the inner shorts of linen and the woolen exterior have similar shapes, but the linen lining is both shorter and less full in order to force the wool to blouse and poof. There is a separate, shaped, waistband with a seam at center back. Lastly, pockets, leg bindings, and the fly. That's really about it--no dealing with drunken angry octopods as in working with pluderhose! <br /><br /></span></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCF51kNfuTlsJicYvsAPt29IcTbN372OYrpPh7pnyCZn4nhPH8oYHx-iMVW4dHSh-omIHdoly69HtBZp7NShICvEfsEwMeI_Yk-eqJUOZ51Zz6l7xrkjUYcFbiulod_O73BW8QF4zc5AlAfgbZLr9mhulyTr9sNqqTEVH4ODfhFuiDrj12e0_LrtAB/s1080/73063219_2302108779916549_8080375926791077888_n.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="808" data-original-width="1080" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCF51kNfuTlsJicYvsAPt29IcTbN372OYrpPh7pnyCZn4nhPH8oYHx-iMVW4dHSh-omIHdoly69HtBZp7NShICvEfsEwMeI_Yk-eqJUOZ51Zz6l7xrkjUYcFbiulod_O73BW8QF4zc5AlAfgbZLr9mhulyTr9sNqqTEVH4ODfhFuiDrj12e0_LrtAB/s320/73063219_2302108779916549_8080375926791077888_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><p></p><p><span> </span>Unfortunately, I don't have a lot of details regarding exactly how I drafted it...I'm writing this about 3.5 years later from what notes I took. So if you were hoping for a tutorial, I'm sorry. That said, both Modern Maker and Tudor Tailor have systems and patterns available. In all likelihood, I didn't use either as I tend to do things the hard way. I believe I based the proportions of the rise--really the most important and tricky to fit portion--on that of my favourite pattern draft of trousers from 1818, because I knew the all important rise would work for me, and I can always tweak the angles to better match period drafts. </p><p><span> </span>In the end, I re-used the same pattern from my <a href="https://matsukazesewing.blogspot.com/2017/07/the-nauseatingly-stripy-trunkhose.html" target="_blank">Nauseatingly Stripy</a> test pair, with a few modifications. Primarily, I shifted the seam from being an outseam to an inseam, and threw a curve into the top edge in order to force them to blouse a bit more. My notes say the curve was added based on <i>Modern Maker II</i>, and the switch from out to inseam based on examples in <i>PoF3</i> and the <i>V&A</i> book showing an inseam to be more common </p><p><span> </span>The size of the waist was based on the examples in PoF3, which range from two to three times the waistband measurement. As the wool is fairly heavy and would be supported with additional layers of fabric, I chose to err on the smaller side of the spectrum at roughly double my waist measure (at the time).<br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7AeLc8FVewzW2Vkqw1qjzlilmojdTgPv8OcJto40pwtkdA1lQyK8R-tsqPdeCMLtUIXq2ojX3tRTUn1CC0ND6dUOhs2OgiyZtmY4nLIffwK74JiNMUnF8T1M7W0TAYuyMPKUXh7ZL_zFk9uDaawpqxlyMle9uXD13WPQZ7um6q620xTTcL61YtzDs/s1260/72411802_2305492669578160_7547622904880431104_n.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1260" data-original-width="1080" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7AeLc8FVewzW2Vkqw1qjzlilmojdTgPv8OcJto40pwtkdA1lQyK8R-tsqPdeCMLtUIXq2ojX3tRTUn1CC0ND6dUOhs2OgiyZtmY4nLIffwK74JiNMUnF8T1M7W0TAYuyMPKUXh7ZL_zFk9uDaawpqxlyMle9uXD13WPQZ7um6q620xTTcL61YtzDs/s320/72411802_2305492669578160_7547622904880431104_n.jpg" width="274" /></a></div><p><span> </span>At that point--naturally, after cutting my wool--, I ran into a few issues and realized the bottom cuff would be much too big. The solution to this<span> </span> was to rotate the rise and seam so the inseam would be roughly on bias and give me a leg opening closer to twice my thigh circumference. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheUO5wcWI7QlX2oMM-OOUQTgWT62Lue9z_sR7UJc20tcMyv4k-47f1nOncsdbms2eMPL-HKkiQYGQn1mbudrwZ7Bkf4sLhcW_LzCuTp9oWxW6eJACK0EszdQvDfzw5gnW149snyGI74rvsuBAhBTlQCQYjL8j9VpuDa2nCPPbgBerikpZqXYG_G_zs/s1080/72252558_2303560439771383_5286458640855728128_n.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="808" data-original-width="1080" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheUO5wcWI7QlX2oMM-OOUQTgWT62Lue9z_sR7UJc20tcMyv4k-47f1nOncsdbms2eMPL-HKkiQYGQn1mbudrwZ7Bkf4sLhcW_LzCuTp9oWxW6eJACK0EszdQvDfzw5gnW149snyGI74rvsuBAhBTlQCQYjL8j9VpuDa2nCPPbgBerikpZqXYG_G_zs/s320/72252558_2303560439771383_5286458640855728128_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><p><span> </span>The base shorts are slightly different, as you can see. Overall, they are shorter--but not so much on the inseam--and much narrower at the waist. Keeping the inseam the same should help allow for movement, but the outseam and waist being smaller helps force the woolen layer to blouse and poof out. This was based on experimentation and analyzing the available resources (PoF3, V&A books) when I made the stripy pair. I was originally going to sew these in the same leather as with the Party Pluderhose, but found I didn't have enough leather for it to be a viable option...so heavy linen it was.</p><p><span> </span>These were simply sewn up the inseam with white linen thread.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaEtZLXfchria6_bp93iyVjVhcbRoVgW1K3v4e0U9tL91ofXh0-CuAVtusaFrvNq9-XV900kyjXPptxfZoTlnvg5GlEqSgxE9PtcQuHZEG5MGdnHzd-WPxri8hn2saDhy-lxrjO37HiD11oaePdHxNM5H1YcPEo82TMy7HnWGlul7iPtGz3TcQqQ2A/s1080/73349276_2307352839392143_1687649747617185792_n.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="808" data-original-width="1080" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaEtZLXfchria6_bp93iyVjVhcbRoVgW1K3v4e0U9tL91ofXh0-CuAVtusaFrvNq9-XV900kyjXPptxfZoTlnvg5GlEqSgxE9PtcQuHZEG5MGdnHzd-WPxri8hn2saDhy-lxrjO37HiD11oaePdHxNM5H1YcPEo82TMy7HnWGlul7iPtGz3TcQqQ2A/s320/73349276_2307352839392143_1687649747617185792_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><p><span> </span>The pockets, on the other hand, I could do in leather. You see leather pockets used on a couple of extant suits, including the Cotton Suit. I am not sure if there is a reason, beyond durability. The shape of the pockets is likewise based on those of the Cotton suit, although I did have to piece them.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRnf2mKBGmoP-1nd9cQRETAJy4EukwGv8MZeBU3sStD81J_haQQDNj2GLzcRcMqlwKARXtsz8nhZjOns5ctaFoRTA6udrjSVkAiEyhZv-qZZcExam-MNVU3y3KPmsUt02VPdetfhLZI7fubM0SHRaPopOg1-LX9brS9daqRyPQbzoqzoDIDxUkVOgV/s1080/74911755_2356704417790318_750513687793500160_n.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="808" data-original-width="1080" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRnf2mKBGmoP-1nd9cQRETAJy4EukwGv8MZeBU3sStD81J_haQQDNj2GLzcRcMqlwKARXtsz8nhZjOns5ctaFoRTA6udrjSVkAiEyhZv-qZZcExam-MNVU3y3KPmsUt02VPdetfhLZI7fubM0SHRaPopOg1-LX9brS9daqRyPQbzoqzoDIDxUkVOgV/s320/74911755_2356704417790318_750513687793500160_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><p><span> </span>The triangular top edges of the pockets get sewn to the vertical pocket slits, and the bags hang loose. As is my wont, I went large on the pocket size--I mean, what's the point of having pockets if you can't keep a bottle of wine in one, and a picnic in the other?</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVaeyjGRL4Bd0bW41CuYMQ_rFhVKGL5v5qT8ZiXo4_0DUxIo0RmKmYSmk0cnRYT_SJclc8Ht_TmaAWbmS7JfGUGph3gG7ZbZ9xTzsy9fD7yKqoF-LKJCdAMG2EYq5y_Vy3yFcypM8CwHJbQEKe_PorubWvLbu2Kk3lBjSjNsabUrx2JkO_pjNDkPrR/s1350/75220801_2360886994038727_9193939957415149568_n.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1350" data-original-width="1080" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVaeyjGRL4Bd0bW41CuYMQ_rFhVKGL5v5qT8ZiXo4_0DUxIo0RmKmYSmk0cnRYT_SJclc8Ht_TmaAWbmS7JfGUGph3gG7ZbZ9xTzsy9fD7yKqoF-LKJCdAMG2EYq5y_Vy3yFcypM8CwHJbQEKe_PorubWvLbu2Kk3lBjSjNsabUrx2JkO_pjNDkPrR/s320/75220801_2360886994038727_9193939957415149568_n.jpg" width="256" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKg-0JEblq_VSdQDjUZYfegZ8Us0U2THOb9GoR3DGu6f3HdKItDv7VTz_hGR9uk_riyGCo8hCb51VDtAnOZzXEpBT5TnmkBtdTQ6g_O03CZ7TU47M8ZLSMgj6qW4rXtO1koYByPBPzNkXEEBHafFqgWTg3bMSLKrJktze4FIVQrH4Mith-NPKr9nbp/s1350/74674922_2360887054038721_5384616682431971328_n.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1350" data-original-width="1080" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKg-0JEblq_VSdQDjUZYfegZ8Us0U2THOb9GoR3DGu6f3HdKItDv7VTz_hGR9uk_riyGCo8hCb51VDtAnOZzXEpBT5TnmkBtdTQ6g_O03CZ7TU47M8ZLSMgj6qW4rXtO1koYByPBPzNkXEEBHafFqgWTg3bMSLKrJktze4FIVQrH4Mith-NPKr9nbp/s320/74674922_2360887054038721_5384616682431971328_n.jpg" width="256" /></a></div><p><span> </span>Sewing the pocket in place was simple enough, just a prick or backstitch through both the leather and wool, with the raw edge of the leather turned to the outside, where it wouldn't be visible in the pocket opening. On the other hand, determining the best way to finish the pocket opening was much more involved. After discussing it with the Modern Maker, in the end I went down a rabbit hole and determined that based on textile fragments from the Vasa warship, it would be perfectly reasonable to simply overcast the raw edge. I will publish that bit of digressive research in a separate post at some point, since I got a good page of survey notes, and may probe a bit deeper.</p><p><span> </span>The raw edge was overcast with a fine whip-stitch in 100/3 black linen thread, and small bar tacks stitched in at both top and bottom of the pocket to reinforce the opening. Once that was done, the pockets had to be basted shut for the remainder of construction to prevent them from gaping and throwing off accuracy during further construction. <br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-E-zeUo_wNBzwMTNvmd5RrRTqwi6KE_jKWAZkk9NnV4gkkCAokE967H-aZMIvmUhO-PTR68c4dV2B2zWO2m21dLwJg3Lq0LNwGY0Gvy_CH6L6FntVvQl5ScTzirTwIOJmV93f_CfRVsNUWMNlSbOxlPHVkmmYGbBsbHY9uqQX68cjmi2ifkMyICph/s1080/75398176_2362904220503671_8491420248526815232_n.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="1080" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-E-zeUo_wNBzwMTNvmd5RrRTqwi6KE_jKWAZkk9NnV4gkkCAokE967H-aZMIvmUhO-PTR68c4dV2B2zWO2m21dLwJg3Lq0LNwGY0Gvy_CH6L6FntVvQl5ScTzirTwIOJmV93f_CfRVsNUWMNlSbOxlPHVkmmYGbBsbHY9uqQX68cjmi2ifkMyICph/s320/75398176_2362904220503671_8491420248526815232_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><p><span> </span>Next step was adding an additional doubled strip of heavy fustian, cut from the width of fabric so the springy weft would be put to good use. While you may or may not see a strip like this on extant garments--a cursory look didn't show any, but that was hardly exhaustive--it is commonly found on lady's skirts to give volume to the pleats. My hope was that it would give the necessary amount of poofage...you will see the results later.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjM2RPgTL_o9TQv616a873cjApnlqyZ2mY4w-yvTg56z-qK4N0MRzsxKM-IOYZ0zgSwXqVe2XohW5yMBstH4iOgf2yAq5CHqKS9EQvqBcv5pTTnn82kv1VnbmfxifaJ32NtvvlzDwlVQi6VmjCGgZR88-ns1Gn5EqG28lQENJ_a_mfNP3Ak_7NxTz1f/s1080/78197103_2373449689449124_2079368017896013824_n.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="1080" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjM2RPgTL_o9TQv616a873cjApnlqyZ2mY4w-yvTg56z-qK4N0MRzsxKM-IOYZ0zgSwXqVe2XohW5yMBstH4iOgf2yAq5CHqKS9EQvqBcv5pTTnn82kv1VnbmfxifaJ32NtvvlzDwlVQi6VmjCGgZR88-ns1Gn5EqG28lQENJ_a_mfNP3Ak_7NxTz1f/s320/78197103_2373449689449124_2079368017896013824_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><p><span> </span>Following that, a row of basting stitches in heavy linen thread was run along the bottom cuff while the garment was still flat, and the inseam sewn up with a backstitch. The use of backstitch was chosen here both because the fabric is thick enough that a running stitch isn't an option (stab is, however), and to allow for some stretch in the seam. Recent discussions point out that a Holbien stitch--or a stab stitch--would have been more common. The seam was additionally felled.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMI4gV5JMytDDZlJb0Njk2EkyKv8_JOKocyoQ-oisiD8R7gzelXeK4T6d8Sy_FXpu2ytPGO6UtT_84dzHfXKEV8OIjjhqcSvucnqzgRR1sWAT5sFjlhxKujIAR7EbSgIhrXMNSR_jkqTLoXa26psDz04RZOPZN6cMWgeLNAg5hfjNe2sldb9IGllJL/s1080/78237448_2373620989431994_3406897896048558080_n.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="808" data-original-width="1080" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMI4gV5JMytDDZlJb0Njk2EkyKv8_JOKocyoQ-oisiD8R7gzelXeK4T6d8Sy_FXpu2ytPGO6UtT_84dzHfXKEV8OIjjhqcSvucnqzgRR1sWAT5sFjlhxKujIAR7EbSgIhrXMNSR_jkqTLoXa26psDz04RZOPZN6cMWgeLNAg5hfjNe2sldb9IGllJL/s320/78237448_2373620989431994_3406897896048558080_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><p><span> </span>The waistband is actually shaped in this piece, being deeper in the front to line up with the slight drop in the front waist of the legs. While the original plan here was to use several layers of linen inside the wool fashion fabric, the extant garments do not appear to be particularly bulky in this portion--generally only a single layer of reinforcing fabric. As such, I used a doubled piece of the heavy fustian as my interlining. Before violently pressing the folds into permanence, I made use of a prick stitch along the fold line to prevent the interfacing from shifting during the life of the garment.</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVvSQV7wuTxQK2ogYU7W5IUf5vHMBjlXAOCWveQZ4Fdo_ZXtB8Zhwg3q4_4PYJ7o_krzmL25QutrHFT1CV1UuIFVTUgS5-c2wLvy7WW6BKWV_Calbwlva2OHYZqafD9mvqgQ2MEYTa3t35Bv2y2E9W06Tdfn-KeQPBUtAR-JfS5PcJWdXdXEVeUbQD/s1080/70332195_2375426602584766_6339676327976632320_n.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="807" data-original-width="1080" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVvSQV7wuTxQK2ogYU7W5IUf5vHMBjlXAOCWveQZ4Fdo_ZXtB8Zhwg3q4_4PYJ7o_krzmL25QutrHFT1CV1UuIFVTUgS5-c2wLvy7WW6BKWV_Calbwlva2OHYZqafD9mvqgQ2MEYTa3t35Bv2y2E9W06Tdfn-KeQPBUtAR-JfS5PcJWdXdXEVeUbQD/s320/70332195_2375426602584766_6339676327976632320_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBb-yZd3owi_qXJ7zrRDoJqc2iiXOBUfxTNTWipXNFzkl58ypngFtSfHlkl8LLUmMocNuPpl2-ZbKmzqxpp8KKkvFiYN9NjQIk67Gk6jrH9_rAlHfaMamzl3AsISQbRXXKkriLeNzhQYf1k5my3iMCrCruxuL7-yOn3Skw65KvU4hzeMdoyA5G1c8B/s1080/75540159_2375426465918113_4442730805390737408_n.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="808" data-original-width="1080" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBb-yZd3owi_qXJ7zrRDoJqc2iiXOBUfxTNTWipXNFzkl58ypngFtSfHlkl8LLUmMocNuPpl2-ZbKmzqxpp8KKkvFiYN9NjQIk67Gk6jrH9_rAlHfaMamzl3AsISQbRXXKkriLeNzhQYf1k5my3iMCrCruxuL7-yOn3Skw65KvU4hzeMdoyA5G1c8B/s320/75540159_2375426465918113_4442730805390737408_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><p><span> </span>For the waistband, I ran a simple gathering stitch in heavy thread and sewed the waistband on right sides together. Yup...you're reading that right; no cartridge pleats. After I made the stripy trunkhose using that method, I learned that cartridge pleats were--to the best of our knowledge--not used, especially in men's hose. I estimated the gathers correctly--I couldn't have fit much more fabric in there.</p><p><span> </span>As you can see, only one side of the wool waistband was initially sewn in, going through one layer of wool and two of fustian in order to support that edge. The second edge would eventually be roughly overcast down to the inside and covered by the lining shorts.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiv7h-AE-hzTcZY8X7mH2SoOQQino20EXs9FbN2FlTcU5w3MfkdplhJdSldiNMzxd-S0A2xc2WxcW6XAWNWakKLCfnPoVl7czqJQnV5h0AqRm6YA6CW1BEx3U9qzSDqsMcEW5SnK1rMwmC1HMdDczpq-GXeco4rdIGFchToFASGDXsY76muhvggbLTL/s1080/80590218_2449122768548482_5387579956463140864_n.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="1080" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiv7h-AE-hzTcZY8X7mH2SoOQQino20EXs9FbN2FlTcU5w3MfkdplhJdSldiNMzxd-S0A2xc2WxcW6XAWNWakKLCfnPoVl7czqJQnV5h0AqRm6YA6CW1BEx3U9qzSDqsMcEW5SnK1rMwmC1HMdDczpq-GXeco4rdIGFchToFASGDXsY76muhvggbLTL/s320/80590218_2449122768548482_5387579956463140864_n.jpg" width="320" /></a> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span> </span>Unfortunately, this is the point when it went wrong. I accidentally made two right legs, and had to stitchrip one of them all the way back to removing the pocket. As you would guess, it went in time out for a while, although stitchripping it all didn't really take that long. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6A3Tc1rQWh87tpB3uTQ8Hl_HlsPWT-U8c1u4TNCwLCPDvyQ1gQLpWm0NNnFzEeEELmFTyPopJQQlMvKah77UeVbpUzgTQGzOHzOMwSuDPvqujFnB1O_gjngmsTVJ4Bl2HDLGMmnrB6wKyyda8XDRnV9QWs0WIGUMbh71l0EMmykqWdUOpTFvzZaHc/s1440/87149844_2570416923085732_2414211124355399680_n.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1077" data-original-width="1440" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6A3Tc1rQWh87tpB3uTQ8Hl_HlsPWT-U8c1u4TNCwLCPDvyQ1gQLpWm0NNnFzEeEELmFTyPopJQQlMvKah77UeVbpUzgTQGzOHzOMwSuDPvqujFnB1O_gjngmsTVJ4Bl2HDLGMmnrB6wKyyda8XDRnV9QWs0WIGUMbh71l0EMmykqWdUOpTFvzZaHc/s320/87149844_2570416923085732_2414211124355399680_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><p><span> </span>The cuff is a mere strip of the wool, sewn right sides together, and with the raw edge whipstitched down on the wrong side. This raw edge would be covered with the foundation shorts eventually. I didn't want to faff about with hook and eyes or points or any other kin of fastening on the cuff--they seldom work on my leg shape anyways--, so kept it quite simple.<br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwjeL8eAXbGJAHxDFWbCBXPGQ8Uw-lZYscSc1p-MXrFOYoOmOJvxkpNubq0AcHCiBRKBU3EryVH8WeZ5b5rDnX3JRxGgQwC3ILPG0HdjJYwgeHfSMl-axnDJgddI3rRJHa_YRxQC9j4WvHxn1WGxolZErPJxiVH9VRkxvd4GRhwGU4GrO42EbnmbOh/s2015/88037313_2592711074189650_4001860641613676544_n.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2015" data-original-width="1507" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwjeL8eAXbGJAHxDFWbCBXPGQ8Uw-lZYscSc1p-MXrFOYoOmOJvxkpNubq0AcHCiBRKBU3EryVH8WeZ5b5rDnX3JRxGgQwC3ILPG0HdjJYwgeHfSMl-axnDJgddI3rRJHa_YRxQC9j4WvHxn1WGxolZErPJxiVH9VRkxvd4GRhwGU4GrO42EbnmbOh/s320/88037313_2592711074189650_4001860641613676544_n.jpg" width="239" /></a></div><p><span> </span>Now that I actually had a left leg as well as a right, I could sew up the rise. Presumably, I did this with a backstitch as well. I only sewed up to a certain point in the front,to allow for the front opening and fly.<br /></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh71MCbdxFf0d0FfdojJz_ubqSIYGK4N3GQ22Z-zJ3CoY6Q1eS7rVwQFpAqsevMnNrgfOQnIpWiuOg68lMu6GvbFt2JFkcW6SUy8iBSKm1Ngr5xpa2pw1PJQ0OxPBqqd7mPLkIbgeMaVVjtBuUdsVBV6sannomVU4mDq5bRZFtwZYzDM_9i8NYCjZx1/s960/90025043_2628795883914502_6870038320118759424_n.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="959" data-original-width="960" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh71MCbdxFf0d0FfdojJz_ubqSIYGK4N3GQ22Z-zJ3CoY6Q1eS7rVwQFpAqsevMnNrgfOQnIpWiuOg68lMu6GvbFt2JFkcW6SUy8iBSKm1Ngr5xpa2pw1PJQ0OxPBqqd7mPLkIbgeMaVVjtBuUdsVBV6sannomVU4mDq5bRZFtwZYzDM_9i8NYCjZx1/s320/90025043_2628795883914502_6870038320118759424_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><span> </span>I now ran into another problem. Upon trying the hose on, I found they weren't round or poofy enough in the hips. Inspired by the work of The Modern Maker, I decided I would need to make a pair of moulds--i.e. an integrated bumroll for men's hose.<p></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEio6MfVhg2ENJJH9CSpaXCp8YKlWzOc5i8OX2o2p3MnentkkpyggFRaQtCMYq7vz8PlIkdzuwkDsd5cMpl7L-UkY5DD-r3FxQGmkgdrNDJHeFB-evW6YyCTb-wkfKL7NCGQ5vYk0JJc_zuExXVebyxwFSCJeTq_CwpErMPDuV6gJVgAQeZCa-Blq2Lj/s960/90054224_2628796243914466_6464970698778476544_n.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="718" data-original-width="960" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEio6MfVhg2ENJJH9CSpaXCp8YKlWzOc5i8OX2o2p3MnentkkpyggFRaQtCMYq7vz8PlIkdzuwkDsd5cMpl7L-UkY5DD-r3FxQGmkgdrNDJHeFB-evW6YyCTb-wkfKL7NCGQ5vYk0JJc_zuExXVebyxwFSCJeTq_CwpErMPDuV6gJVgAQeZCa-Blq2Lj/s320/90054224_2628796243914466_6464970698778476544_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><span> </span>At the widest point I ended up making them around 10" tall, possibly determined by the piece of fabric, and partly because that is fairly close to the distance from my waist to the widest point of my hips. Width was definitely determined more by the fabric I had at hand than anything studied or scientific, although I knew I wanted a fair amount as it would get gathered into place. Overall shape was inspired by <a href="https://matsukazesewing.blogspot.com/2016/05/1880s-dress-improver-hsm-4.html" target="_blank">Victorian-era butt pillows</a> (more formally known as "dress improvers").<br /><p></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgA7IaFtH2DnFswNudro8abtTrxDSbXYrW1DS6M8kxnX0uiakvQ_YcNwjl6onJIxaXpIRByjsdCPgcBtBIHL48YnJlgYVI_tamgLsKdkvM_IxUavlX6Je3G0FlgdeC-qb0ticeorGCzDSZ7cADCboTkcYWj4R9MqIphMm_qr-YnrR50grtBzSEZ7vfP/s1440/89576269_2612311272229630_950303205487542272_n.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1077" data-original-width="1440" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgA7IaFtH2DnFswNudro8abtTrxDSbXYrW1DS6M8kxnX0uiakvQ_YcNwjl6onJIxaXpIRByjsdCPgcBtBIHL48YnJlgYVI_tamgLsKdkvM_IxUavlX6Je3G0FlgdeC-qb0ticeorGCzDSZ7cADCboTkcYWj4R9MqIphMm_qr-YnrR50grtBzSEZ7vfP/s320/89576269_2612311272229630_950303205487542272_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><span> </span>Materials used were a really crappy "wool" from fashion fabrics, more fustian for springiness, and raw cotton wool which was padstitched to the fustian. The wool was cut a fair amount wider than the fustian, as I knew I would need the extra to cover the rounded padding. After a test fit, they also got quilted.<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHTbJrMmB8kPExk7wCTOq_BzGZw7q6ACl7QHW9OY8tWW3hRnX9eRwp1ox0em-4ybypt9GyVO5Vp512gTyjToIU9kiaZos40WNITcNagXR9HD9O7rn8Cd16CDY6rFOKDuXSj_fI7mx1N6FngeiFeByisBHJOJFtVYjbQ2UqqVVFPAczd5AOR6IOLqpC/s960/90103400_2628796420581115_3216367851103322112_n.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="718" data-original-width="960" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHTbJrMmB8kPExk7wCTOq_BzGZw7q6ACl7QHW9OY8tWW3hRnX9eRwp1ox0em-4ybypt9GyVO5Vp512gTyjToIU9kiaZos40WNITcNagXR9HD9O7rn8Cd16CDY6rFOKDuXSj_fI7mx1N6FngeiFeByisBHJOJFtVYjbQ2UqqVVFPAczd5AOR6IOLqpC/s320/90103400_2628796420581115_3216367851103322112_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><p><span> </span>As you can see, the mould more or less reaches the entire length of the waistband, although it's much smaller and flatter in the front. The bulk of the padding is centered over the hollow of your butt, just back of hip. It was roughly gathered and coarsely whipstitched in place.<br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOFczULJqOoE_ljk4u9E7F-FQOLCWkxMx4UkaD6gx7mhqR9XJdW-fwIr1agQ3gcZU2AYhVjCLstepxFFp8KzZIXmlUPL9TL-G7h2db1f3cKY7em4iEfTX3a6L9E8SEvT01TwHW0vVbxbanou6cS0ESQf4tzCvpn2apC28RTjr9AQyruN7e5wkCwQcs/s960/89848154_2628795950581162_3964534472413544448_n.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="832" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOFczULJqOoE_ljk4u9E7F-FQOLCWkxMx4UkaD6gx7mhqR9XJdW-fwIr1agQ3gcZU2AYhVjCLstepxFFp8KzZIXmlUPL9TL-G7h2db1f3cKY7em4iEfTX3a6L9E8SEvT01TwHW0vVbxbanou6cS0ESQf4tzCvpn2apC28RTjr9AQyruN7e5wkCwQcs/s320/89848154_2628795950581162_3964534472413544448_n.jpg" width="277" /></a></div><p><span> </span>Much better.</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdOKe5cIxo2Uvy4QSu4R2zeuQFP7tZa8-XUo0I2VmUQlxkgTZcRwraaiBgNhUeh5iJe1iwCyxWKKr_Ackl0E7v4tUy0r2Kj69OwCMJthayZQKQzSoLaKTIDhXK8dZqZ3_zp1a6GIYCDgzxmBIESXlT6SPR2Fdhqz3sGUp69uS4JaOwMCKKcMAcnuwU/s960/92961365_2691966460930777_1022520151402086400_n.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="718" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdOKe5cIxo2Uvy4QSu4R2zeuQFP7tZa8-XUo0I2VmUQlxkgTZcRwraaiBgNhUeh5iJe1iwCyxWKKr_Ackl0E7v4tUy0r2Kj69OwCMJthayZQKQzSoLaKTIDhXK8dZqZ3_zp1a6GIYCDgzxmBIESXlT6SPR2Fdhqz3sGUp69uS4JaOwMCKKcMAcnuwU/s320/92961365_2691966460930777_1022520151402086400_n.jpg" width="239" /></a></div><span> </span>After finishing sewing the front rise and felling it, I had to actually finish the waistband. Not sure why I waited until this point...presumably there was a reason for not doing so, but at this point I don't know what. The center front has an inverted box pleat, which allows the front opening to be mostly concealed for modesty. To give you a rough timeline, I started this project in September of 2019, and when I shared this progress photo I noted that my enthusiasm for sewing took a dramatic swing downhill due to the beginning of the Pandemic--everything from there on went real slow.<p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj32KJ9twF7p0chvc4boFSxsEAd82m66RfrkCUDvzM_Yh7kw2xsqOB2aLxhv_K6DYaEppUV4FFOaH_4A4LvHiI0IPWdeLPECZyeAkJ9IE2aRT9SSphyoDKHVr9H9xM6h1AFTRyl97MBaZBxC0iO2V23xvYfz_937HZdpBexOTfux304CuXHv0a5BcdO/s960/93277471_2691966550930768_8129573381302386688_n.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="718" data-original-width="960" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj32KJ9twF7p0chvc4boFSxsEAd82m66RfrkCUDvzM_Yh7kw2xsqOB2aLxhv_K6DYaEppUV4FFOaH_4A4LvHiI0IPWdeLPECZyeAkJ9IE2aRT9SSphyoDKHVr9H9xM6h1AFTRyl97MBaZBxC0iO2V23xvYfz_937HZdpBexOTfux304CuXHv0a5BcdO/s320/93277471_2691966550930768_8129573381302386688_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><p><span> </span>I got the lining sewn in at the same time. Just overcast into place at the top and bottom with a few pleats to make it fit. Over the next year, I slowly worked on the lacing points in the waistband, using 16/2 linen thread and a simple whipstitch.<br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMxW9lZ2A--wMocIRnpuWAMOwHQp2gmaIXPUiuvl675WqDo1Px_IRql5ZDqSfdCxXxtvVU6h3plrcGdDxCfM1CFzr02XspIl0tkXdG8ejCyGvJ9TRprdH4Of4tw6XtS8ddOGQduF61hbkqLP-n6x45R8HLVcUGpyZJiz2-sIQVT7hSkjs5NX72mUyz/s1080/272707533_4577048082422596_8119704838789022375_n.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="1080" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMxW9lZ2A--wMocIRnpuWAMOwHQp2gmaIXPUiuvl675WqDo1Px_IRql5ZDqSfdCxXxtvVU6h3plrcGdDxCfM1CFzr02XspIl0tkXdG8ejCyGvJ9TRprdH4Of4tw6XtS8ddOGQduF61hbkqLP-n6x45R8HLVcUGpyZJiz2-sIQVT7hSkjs5NX72mUyz/s320/272707533_4577048082422596_8119704838789022375_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><p><span> </span>The last stages of the garment was to make the front fly. Overall shape was based on the Cotton hose, once again, with the overall length being based on my own measurements--I have a rather long front rise. Buttonholes were sewn to <a href="https://matsukazesewing.blogspot.com/2015/07/buttonholes-through-periods.html" target="_blank">16th century specifications</a> in black silk buttonhole twist, and the fly itself is just a single layer each of heavy linen and the wool </p><p><span> </span>The buttons themselves are simple solid metal ones about .25" in diameter, obtained from <a href="https://badbaronessbuttons.myshopify.com/" target="_blank">Bad Baroness Buttons</a>, in bulk. Lovely things, and quite weighty. Since they're so simple, they work for a variety of periods, and you can (currently) get them 100c for $40. Choosing between silver and gold was by popular vote.<br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjn6QSH9qGk50QwuJoe0QowhiQfDowtSpoJsZBh75ATz6LfLlUU2ewLrsB7bNfcqBWJeZJKBcBBJ_FT1NglAWJ17nIw7sHoOQn1blZv50tXfb54EcAOqdHr2hYWV1TE1NZsR4ptHlmTxlwBIeS1mizUZOwjX1xZxLyBDts3eWIKw_Pd5fPO-NVl9Lqq/s1080/272735819_4580920318702039_940228852646018313_n.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="1080" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjn6QSH9qGk50QwuJoe0QowhiQfDowtSpoJsZBh75ATz6LfLlUU2ewLrsB7bNfcqBWJeZJKBcBBJ_FT1NglAWJ17nIw7sHoOQn1blZv50tXfb54EcAOqdHr2hYWV1TE1NZsR4ptHlmTxlwBIeS1mizUZOwjX1xZxLyBDts3eWIKw_Pd5fPO-NVl9Lqq/s320/272735819_4580920318702039_940228852646018313_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><p><span> </span>The installation of the fly couldn't be simpler. It was just overcast stitch on top of the edge, sewing from both sides. While the overall piece is simple and doesn't change for a while, exactly how it was attached varies by period, ranging from on the outside of the fabric, to inside, to eventually having the edges concealed between the fashion fabric and lining. On the whole, at this point it very much gives the feeling that the fly is an afterthought...which it may have been in some cases.</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRbJoJdePg3O5mvN2FRCHZkh3CgHxXCyngAoks0uTIpHFKoTKxdxRb4bnLXUc2NCmcIOJdirRjvoKvGTobgNnuZP3fGrr6U2r3PXeb35PY0s67qpjg4IXMpoxPyfah_h7qZxNjU1K0-kspEjA7o1mgxp5BzGyypfEuqB8I1ZKVgIG0Q3wH4mbpyI9q/s855/274513638_4660315537429183_4947965289540524888_n.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="855" data-original-width="623" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRbJoJdePg3O5mvN2FRCHZkh3CgHxXCyngAoks0uTIpHFKoTKxdxRb4bnLXUc2NCmcIOJdirRjvoKvGTobgNnuZP3fGrr6U2r3PXeb35PY0s67qpjg4IXMpoxPyfah_h7qZxNjU1K0-kspEjA7o1mgxp5BzGyypfEuqB8I1ZKVgIG0Q3wH4mbpyI9q/s320/274513638_4660315537429183_4947965289540524888_n.jpg" width="233" /></a> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span> </span>And finally.... a really rough, crappy, and somewhat chilly photo of the hose finished and worn with my<a href="https://matsukazesewing.blogspot.com/2019/08/a-work-day-elizabethan-shirt.html" target="_blank"> working man's Elizabethan shirt</a>! This was about well over a year ago...</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><h4 style="text-align: left;">Conclusions:</h4></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span> </span>This was a rough garment to make. Not because of the construction, and I don't recall the patterning being all that difficult...it was purely mental, due to life changes. On the whole, the actual sewing was a bit of a delight...as mentioned before, the wool is absolutely delicious to handsew and work with. <br /><br /><span> </span>The digression regarding moulds was fascinating as was the discussion and subsequent experimentation. I really like how they effect the hang and poof of the garment.<br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><h4 style="text-align: left;">What I would do differently?</h4></div><ul style="text-align: left;"><li class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">....maybe not take three years for a relatively quick to make garment... </li><li class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I am not sure I can really improve on it at the moment. That's not hubris, just forgetfulness.</li></ul><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><h4 style="text-align: left;">How Historically Accurate is it?</h4></div><ul style="text-align: left;"><li class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The materials and fabrics used are quite close. Obviously, the dyes are modern, and I still suspect a percentage of nylon in the wool. The linen and fustian are likely poor examples compared to extant, but are recognizable. The "wool" used to cover the moulds would probably make a period person go "ewww" if they touched it.<br /></li><li class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Pattern is based on period cutting manuals and examples by Janet Arnold. I think, anyways...I didn't take adequate notes regarding this.</li><li class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Construction techniques are good. </li><li class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Being the person to make it is unlikely...I feel a garment like this would likely have been bought "off the rack" rather than being bespoke, and it's unlikely a tailor would have worn something this plain, as it isn't the best of advertising.</li></ul><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span> </span>On the whole, it is likely a quite reasonable facsimile of a garment from period, with any inaccuracies requiring detailed examination, possibly with a knife. I'm going to call it 92%.<br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><h4>Time (and cost):</h4></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span> </span>Total time, as near as I can tell, was a mere 32.5 hours. And that includes sewing the left leg twice. It really should not have taken much more than a month to complete.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span> </span>Costwise; the Broadcloth was $25 a yard at the time (back in 2018). I don't think I used more than two yards of it. I believe the heavy linen lining was from Joann's, likely during one of their "All linen is $X" sales, which was likely around $10/yard. Again, I doubt I used more than a couple of yards. The other fabrics were all cabbage.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span> </span>Value; close around $550. This is likely undervalued a bit, as I don't usually track the amount of time it takes to draft out the pattern, and that can take a good few hours.<br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><h4>Bibliography</h4></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>A Tudor Suit—The Doublet. (n.d.). Properly Dressed. Retrieved August 2, 2019, from <a href="https://www.properlydressed.co.uk/blog/2019/6/18/hs8eyszmnhi45iv88p9iinq3794671-8tcwh">https://www.properlydressed.co.uk/blog/2019/6/18/hs8eyszmnhi45iv88p9iinq3794671-8tcwh</a></li><li>Anzug (Herren) | Sammlung Online des Schweizerischen Nationalmuseums. (n.d.). Retrieved April 3, 2023, from <a href="https://sammlung.nationalmuseum.ch/de/list/collection?searchText=Wams&detailID=100056522">https://sammlung.nationalmuseum.ch/de/list/collection?searchText=Wams&detailID=100056522</a></li><li>Arnold, J. (1985). Patterns of Fashion: The Cut and Construction of Clothes for Men and Women, C.1560-1620.</li><li>Braun, M., Costigliolo, L., North, S., Thornton, C., & Tiramani, J. (2016). 17th-Century Men’s Dress Patterns; 1600-1630.</li><li>Finnchad, B. M. (2015, July 16). Matsukaze Workshops: Buttonholes through the Periods. Matsukaze Workshops. <a href="http://matsukazesewing.blogspot.com/2015/07/buttonholes-through-periods.html">http://matsukazesewing.blogspot.com/2015/07/buttonholes-through-periods.html</a></li><li><div class="csl-bib-body" style="line-height: 2; margin-left: 2em; text-indent: -2em;">
<div class="csl-entry">Gnagy, M. (2018). <i>The Modern Maker Vol. 2: Pattern Manual 1580—1640</i> (Vol. 2). </div>
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</div></li><li>Images of the Outcast: The Urban Poor in the Cries of London (review). (n.d.). Retrieved April 3, 2023, from <a href="https://www.researchgate.net/publication">https://www.researchgate.net/publication</a>/236821840_Images_of_the_Outcast_The_Urban_Poor_in_the_Cries_of_London_review</li><li>Italian (1570), & English (1594). (n.d.). Giacomo di Grassi ~ Wiktenauer, the world’s largest library of HEMA books and manuscripts ~☞ Insquequo omnes gratuiti fiant. Retrieved July 22, 2023, from <a href="https://wiktenauer.com/wiki/Giacomo_di_Grassi">https://wiktenauer.com/wiki/Giacomo_di_Grassi</a></li><li>Museum, V. and A. (n.d.). Doublet and Trunk Hose | Unknown | V&A Explore The Collections. Victoria and Albert Museum: Explore the Collections. Retrieved April 3, 2023, from <a href="https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O356786/">https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O356786/</a></li><li><div class="csl-bib-body" style="line-height: 2; margin-left: 2em; text-indent: -2em;">
<div class="csl-entry">Malcolm-Davies, J., & Mikhaila, N. (2022). <i>The Typical Tudor</i>. Fat Goose Press.</div>
<span class="Z3988" title="url_ver=Z39.88-2004&ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fzotero.org%3A2&rft_id=urn%3Aisbn%3A987-0-9562674-4-3&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=book&rft.btitle=The%20Typical%20Tudor&rft.publisher=Fat%20Goose%20Press&rft.aufirst=Jane&rft.aulast=Malcolm-Davies&rft.au=Jane%20Malcolm-Davies&rft.au=Ninya%20Mikhaila&rft.date=2022&rft.tpages=216&rft.isbn=987-0-9562674-4-3&rft.language=English"></span>
</div></li><li>Samuel Pepys’ Cries Of London | Spitalfields Life. (n.d.). Retrieved May 15, 2018, from <a href="http://spitalfieldslife.com/2013/02/21/samuel-pepys-cries-of-london/">http://spitalfieldslife.com/2013/02/21/samuel-pepys-cries-of-london/</a></li><li>Vincent, S. (n.d.). `When I am in Good Habitt’: Clothes in English Culture c. 1550—C. 1670. 292.</li></ul></div><p></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">©
John Frey, 2023. The Author of this work retains full copyright for this
material. Permission is granted to make
and distribute verbatim copies of this document for non-commercial private
research or educational purposes provided the copyright notice and this
permission notice are preserved on all copies</span></span></p>Brann mac Finnchadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04614813862245766203noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2468874881802139741.post-35135355433667353562020-01-28T16:42:00.000-09:002020-01-28T19:01:04.381-09:00A Wild Irish(wo)man's InarA couple of months ago, my Donna and Pelican was asked to join the Order of Defense, the peerage for fencers in the SCA.<br />
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As she had nothing nice to wear for her elevation about 6 weeks later at Winter Coronet, we discussed options, and settled on 16th Century Irish (her Persona and mine) menswear--partly so she could borrow pieces from my wardrobe, and partly because the main outer layer really doesn't require much fabric. So...I set to procrastinating. For the better part of a month. Not a big issue...even with handsewing an inar doesn't take much time, since there really aren't a lot of seams.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2hprnWLa_gW1582BuYsH16WAilJREGYSfhNjE9CAF6A8fbzZwDER8GzDL97LPzuL3De9P5fNwct7RdabKhy8-lSVloDb9Za4YMdSkZ0f1JP71xybmvNk9zM0XggQojc2TYST3tZt4Ti0/s1600/DSCN1845.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2hprnWLa_gW1582BuYsH16WAilJREGYSfhNjE9CAF6A8fbzZwDER8GzDL97LPzuL3De9P5fNwct7RdabKhy8-lSVloDb9Za4YMdSkZ0f1JP71xybmvNk9zM0XggQojc2TYST3tZt4Ti0/s640/DSCN1845.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo by Twobears Photography</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
However, since it was for a special occasion I wanted the garment to be bling, and elected to try to keep my doing so a secret except from select support crew who were sewn to secrecy. <br />
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<h4>
Garment Description:</h4>
The Inar of 16th century Ireland is still a decidedly odd garment to my eyes, relatively unlike the common garments elsewhere in the period, and is uniquely Irish. The overall form is that of a rather short vest with rudimentary sleeves and either /many/ peplums or a pleated skirt; two different theories and both are likely correct. It is typically open to the sternum--which is the location of the fashion waist--presumably to show off your muscular chest (if you have one). The sleeves are more or less straight strips of fabric and only cover the top of the arm.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqZJABJbWiqs0kKMJFJvistpdNJrWAf5rI6SmrUu6GmrhKDzvz3J17wnB4Ny3ihesYRo7fS7BKgtk-C0MZD1syI3OPOXfApDPB2yE8dMYC2_a6D_rVg9w6S5ty_N7tS1GBCKpAJUuarkU/s1600/Durer+Image.bmp" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="623" data-original-width="929" height="428" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqZJABJbWiqs0kKMJFJvistpdNJrWAf5rI6SmrUu6GmrhKDzvz3J17wnB4Ny3ihesYRo7fS7BKgtk-C0MZD1syI3OPOXfApDPB2yE8dMYC2_a6D_rVg9w6S5ty_N7tS1GBCKpAJUuarkU/s640/Durer+Image.bmp" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Image from McClintock's Irish Dress.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
In the artwork of the period, you see three varieties of decoration; large floral patterns, strips of what appear to be fringe, and applied stripes. Combinations of the three are also seen, usually with the sleeve and body having different forms of decoration (striped or fringed sleeves and floral body). While I was originally going to more or less duplicate the designs above, I decided to incorporate the recipient's heraldry, as I felt the usage of shamrocks rather than flowers would not be jarring and would make for a nice personalized touch.<br />
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<h4>
My Goals:</h4>
My primary goal was to make something I thought the recipient would like. In doing so, I made a few adjustments for cost, to adjust the fit to be slightly more flattering, or to just personalize it. Due to time constraints, I did not worry about fully documenting every little thing to 16th century Ireland--that kind of research takes time, and the shortcuts in that department were mostly in the materials section, as well as coming up with examples for things like seams.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzJBaTeyKbgvHEynIk2CiAMuNZwkCEDPH33OVLsF1m40VkDz5FTHYF6GF_TcLlS_nxIgO1K3BTejfmDfQ6FF54AxupCJ9BPlZu2Clm2IWUB0gceKgVnuFbFS-BvsZ_vKlLJNIoTVGgqnY/s1600/Dutch+Watercolour.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="607" data-original-width="556" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzJBaTeyKbgvHEynIk2CiAMuNZwkCEDPH33OVLsF1m40VkDz5FTHYF6GF_TcLlS_nxIgO1K3BTejfmDfQ6FF54AxupCJ9BPlZu2Clm2IWUB0gceKgVnuFbFS-BvsZ_vKlLJNIoTVGgqnY/s400/Dutch+Watercolour.JPG" width="366" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">From McClintock's Old Irish Dress</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<h4>
Sources:</h4>
The majority of the sources are based on the above Durer and the de Heere artwork, as well as the Kilcommon inar--the only surviving one which is what I based my original pattern and<a href="https://matsukazesewing.blogspot.com/2017/07/stolen-dwarven-vest.html" target="_blank"> first Inar </a>on. This is my third 16th cen inar, and while each is slightly different, they are all essentially the same design.<br />
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<h4>
Materials:</h4>
The surviving Kilcommon inar is wool, if a tweedy style, and I suspect that the majority of inar were as well. After all, Ireland isn't tropical, the wool industry was a thing, and a leine does not keep you that warm. As such, the base of the garment is made of a red wool the recipient picked up in Korea many years ago. In working it (pressing, in particular) I found that it is likely at least part synthetic fibers, but you can't tell by appearance.<br />
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I additionally lined the torso of the garment in a light weight white linen to cover and protect the back of the applique. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCsIdACygXmNB8Xnns27TEz6EJWPFjhzJmMKi1TrrPwTIyscCweEkS_NegFxrjWrNL8gGIXjELrX1PIz2WJhbfiVwzVoaJr_fctlIaS_y-7Adc0jp-4C0QVTii5PeC_bkPcSR4TPe5vPw/s1600/IMG_20191222_143026.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1197" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCsIdACygXmNB8Xnns27TEz6EJWPFjhzJmMKi1TrrPwTIyscCweEkS_NegFxrjWrNL8gGIXjELrX1PIz2WJhbfiVwzVoaJr_fctlIaS_y-7Adc0jp-4C0QVTii5PeC_bkPcSR4TPe5vPw/s400/IMG_20191222_143026.jpg" width="298" /></a></div>
The applique is of blue/gold silk lutestring, a plain woven silk quite of a type with taffeta. The Tudor Tailor gives several 16th century mentions of taffeta in their fabrics table. That particular fabric and colour was chosen because I had it available from another project, and it is tightly woven enough to not fray at a glance. It isn't as gold as I hoped, but combined with the gilt leather outlines shows a greenish blue tint--and green is one of the recipient's heraldic colours.<br />
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The fringed trim is made of 1/2" wool twill tape (wm. booth, Draper), and 20/2 silk yarn from <a href="https://www.etsy.com/listing/694281030/100g-35oz-of-602-spun-silk-in-a-variety?ref=shop_home_active_4&crt=1" target="_blank">Eowyn de Wever </a>in
gold. Gorgeous stuff. While I suspect that the fibers there are fine,
I strongly think that the fringed trim seen in the images would have
been woven as fringe, rather than made via sewing. This was a decision I
made due to availability of acceptable fringe (nothing remotely
acceptable found...), and time constraints preventing me from learning a
new craft at this time. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsUoUEQpOOHwN1smGULcGceZS2GlnxlofhchIO8_0VyWW2tS1wt5e6wUhC7PAAhb1tHV8SjmmEyNOaRd0pUHTDLizEiODpSsca2CoeYIQCTXXAvAYxaMGOQYR7vjWM2J5b4Tz-yB5kE9k/s1600/IMG_20191230_160010.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1197" data-original-width="1600" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsUoUEQpOOHwN1smGULcGceZS2GlnxlofhchIO8_0VyWW2tS1wt5e6wUhC7PAAhb1tHV8SjmmEyNOaRd0pUHTDLizEiODpSsca2CoeYIQCTXXAvAYxaMGOQYR7vjWM2J5b4Tz-yB5kE9k/s400/IMG_20191230_160010.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The threads and leather shipment...so shiny! </td></tr>
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The last actual material was the gilt leather used for outlining the silk applique to cover the raw edges, used for the stems, and for the chess rooks (which were too fiddly to do in the silk). I had considered doing the shamrocks fully out of gilt, and decided in the end that the additional colour would look good, plus I had limited materials. I do have some resources along the lines of documenting this, as gilt leather in Ireland is an (incomplete) research project from a while back. <a href="http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O86303/the-tristan-hanging-hanging-unknown/" target="_blank">The Tristan hanging</a> from the late 14th century shows the usage of gilt leather in this manner, although that is too much earlier to truly be used as documentation. Additionally, there is a reference in <i>Medieval Clothing and Textiles 8</i> [Pp. 151] along the same lines, further referencing a book on quilting history. Spenser's <i>A View of the present State of Ireland</i> also makes mention of gilt leather decoration on Irish armour.<br />
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
Noe: all these which I have rehearsed to you, bee not Irish garmentes, but Englishe; for the quilted leather Jacke is oulde Englishe; for yt was the proper weede of the horseman, as you may reade in <b>Chaucer</b>, where he describeth <b>Sir Thopas</b> apparrell and armor, when he went to fighte against the gyant, which shecklaton, is that kinde of gilden leather with which they use to Imbroder their Irishe Jackes. And there likewise by all that discripcon yee may see the very fashion and manner of the Irishe horseman most lively sett out, in his longe hose, his shoes of costlie cordwaine, his hacqueton, and his haberjon, with all the rest thereunto belonginge.</blockquote>
The leather I used was not real gilt, of course. While I want make that for my own high end Inar, and using period gilding recipes--hence why I already had research on hand for the topic--,cost and time precluded doing so for this project. Instead, I used a rather nice Italian foil leather from <a href="https://www.etsy.com/listing/151290843/italian-lambskin-leather-hide-buttery?fbclid=IwAR2kdGJray1jZ-DS0UksFEGHtDdKt0pv51e1--f17zxPuMf4SGSo83xem-Q" target="_blank">an Etsy seller</a>. I believe it is some strange material known as "aluminum" giving the shininess.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipBcJqqLj5DS3y1KIWuPZkz7LUTQe60WrbL-5_c5Gt-4hMfmWpZpDH1u_s63Q0zorCavGlMaWu5EcFnhTnIVyf376iO9sJyFdo5WXNvQJdI6Z7ntWiOX3MGP7QhvHonuHTMa0cLhRHZtA/s1600/DSCN1853.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipBcJqqLj5DS3y1KIWuPZkz7LUTQe60WrbL-5_c5Gt-4hMfmWpZpDH1u_s63Q0zorCavGlMaWu5EcFnhTnIVyf376iO9sJyFdo5WXNvQJdI6Z7ntWiOX3MGP7QhvHonuHTMa0cLhRHZtA/s640/DSCN1853.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo by Twobears Photography</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Sewing was carried out with linen thread in red, white, and gold. Visible stitching (for the applique) was sewn with a 60/2 red silk thread from Eowyn de Wever--gorgeous stuff and highly recommended if you need silk sewing thread--, pus an extremely fine black silk thread for the initial application of the shamrocks.<br />
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<br />
<h4>
Pattern:</h4>
The pattern on the whole is quite simple...more or less rectangular construction with bits removed (I know, I refer to most garments that way, but it's true!). I made the back panel as a rectangle the correct height and width. The front pieces have all the shaping; a deep V neck, the shaped armscye, and any waist fitting.<br />
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Skirts are a simple strip of fabric three times the waist circumference, pieced and pleated. Sleeves are also a simple strip of fabric, about the same width as the wrist circumference, with an S shaped sleeve cap to provide the difference between bent and straight arm lengths.<br />
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The original draft. I did make a few adjustments, raising the outside shoulder seam slightly, eventually removed the huge inlays, and deepened the armscye--not sure how I ended up making it so shallow.<br />
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<h4>
Seams:</h4>
Seams were all straight-forwarded, and almost entirely back-stitched for strength and due to the thickness of the fabric. I did fell the seams, overcasting the raw edge down while keeping the stitches concealed; I treated the hems the same way. The linen lining was likewise overcast into place with the raw edges turned under.<br />
<br />
The applique was sewn with whip-stitches. On the wider stems, the stitches are in pairs, puncturing the leather roughly halfway across.<br />
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The bottom edge of the skirts was also overcast to help prevent fraying. Naturally, I did this /after/ pleating, because doing so before would have been too easy and require forethought. Using tiny whipstitches on a raw edge as a form of hem finishing is supported by fragments of textiles from the Vasa shipwreck, sunk in 1628 on its maiden voyage from Stockholm, Sweden (I spent an afternoon going through the textile fragments looking for evidence of such); notably fragments #03410, #27911, and #27913.<br />
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<h4>
Construction:</h4>
Overall, the construction was straight-forwarded.<br />
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Everything except the skirts was cut out first, then I made sure to make all the seams and baste the hem down. The skirt wasn't cut out at this point because it is so rudimentary.<br />
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Figuring out the placement of the applique. I did get second opinions from my secret support crew about the pattern before finalizing. I wanted something with a decent spread to avoid any large empty spaces, but I also needed room for the stems to curve elegantly...and within the bounds of what the leather could handle, since I was cutting straight strips. <br />
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After cutting out the shamrocks in the silk, they were basted into place, then sewn down with a fine black silk. This is what is actually holding the shamrocks in place--fairly fine whip-stitches which are hidden under the leather edging.<br />
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I worked on the fringe for a couple of hours every morning while waking up. It is produced with the same method as the fringe on <a href="https://matsukazesewing.blogspot.com/2014/03/16th-century-irish-brat.html" target="_blank">my Brat</a>, using four strands of the silk on the needle. Working from the right side; take a running stitch forwards, a stitch backwards to the same place and leaving a loop, then a half sized back-stitch followed by a running stitch in order to lock the thread into place and progress forward. And repeat ad aeternum. Eventually I will remember to take a photo series showing exactly how I make the brat fringe, since I get enough questions regarding it.<br />
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Double checking placements, and making sure it looked fine. The gilt leather strip was sewn with whip-stitches perpendicular to the edge, and cut at each leaf since making that sharp of a corner wasn't neatly possible. The ends each got a stitch through the leather to help anchor them.<br />
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The strips of leather for the edges were cut at 1/8" wide or slightly less, using a metal ruler and rotary cutter.<br />
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Continuing....<br />
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Still going, but now on the front. You may notice there is something off on the placements of two of the shamrocks....I didn't until after the they were fully applied and I was getting ready to do the vines. It wasn't hard to stitch rip and redo, but was a major pain in the butt. <br />
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The first piece of trim produced for the waist. This is made of three rows of loops, and took about 9 hours to produce. Much faster than actually weaving it. <br />
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Yeah...this is when I realized I messed up and had to redo two of them. Needless to say, I was not pleased with myself. <br />
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The fronts finished! I had to think a bit on the stem sizes, but eventually felt that 5mm for the smaller off-branching ones, and 5/16" for the larger ones would be appropriate. I didn't want to go too wide, or it wouldn't blend into the shamrocks properly, and the rooks needed smaller vines due to their own smaller size.<br />
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Likewise on the back. The center back vine needed to be the widest, of course, but having it go directly to the center rook wouldn't have looked good...so I went left instead. The stems on the topmost rooks are slightly narrower than the 5mm, I believe, as they are essentially tertiary stems. I'm not quite happy with how the center stem looks, but I'll have to live with it....unless I steal the garment back and redo it.<br />
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When applying the stems, I went small to large, that way the ends of the branches would be covered by the larger originating stem. The stems were also done before I applied the rooks, which were sewn with as tiny of a whip-stitch as I could manage. Figuring out how to anchor the larger pieces of leather was...interesting. I ended up using long pins to baste over them, so that I wouldn't make holes in the leather.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQRh1T7p_Jg22PZyYuxPZnSzewZDSgT866b-kXQmpzxnwXDlgkbqBGEdOsEdFZCXxx1GEY92IRTasBuMQ72yQi7Tkfs9BTMIktcS6UPgUHTlLRCBUgVJUpZQuFi2nylnWWMulaSIcf8ro/s1600/IMG_20200112_123142.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1197" data-original-width="1600" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQRh1T7p_Jg22PZyYuxPZnSzewZDSgT866b-kXQmpzxnwXDlgkbqBGEdOsEdFZCXxx1GEY92IRTasBuMQ72yQi7Tkfs9BTMIktcS6UPgUHTlLRCBUgVJUpZQuFi2nylnWWMulaSIcf8ro/s400/IMG_20200112_123142.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
Side seams sewn, showing the hole of one side! I also trimmed the bottom down from the original length. You can see hints of the front facing in place as well.<br />
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Pleating, pleating, pleating. On each of the three inar I have made, I have just eyeballed the knife pleats rather than measuring each. The fabric was pieced, and I did not bother felling those seams, but just pressed them heavily.<br />
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The skirts were applied with a heavy back-stitch, and the trim set just above in order to cover the waist seam.<br />
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Before applying the trim, I cut all the little loops free. It is only sewn down on the top side and ends, with matching linen thread.<br />
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The sleevils! These pieces of trim were made to length. Raw edges turned under and overcast down (silk thread) and turned to length. Rather than trimming the end to the correct length, I left a good six inches, just in case I was mis-remembering the length even though I marked it on the sleeve during the try-on before I began decoration. This also provides some weight to the end of the sleeves so they hang properly.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyZqxUU2nGbH_knFXceSAmjnvUPco5aM8Rzpr-oLBReQ79kfh5za3Y-5vppSZuRX4QotajlENH4Op6T_ZIDmA8PvLTqAIKIBspjOoRdknsZG_P6N8CSNe_8_cq_RpAPdQhaDGZMpbUsYI/s1600/IMG_20200116_153759.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1197" data-original-width="1600" height="476" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyZqxUU2nGbH_knFXceSAmjnvUPco5aM8Rzpr-oLBReQ79kfh5za3Y-5vppSZuRX4QotajlENH4Op6T_ZIDmA8PvLTqAIKIBspjOoRdknsZG_P6N8CSNe_8_cq_RpAPdQhaDGZMpbUsYI/s640/IMG_20200116_153759.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
In the end, I chose to go with simple self cloth buttons, as they are the least obtrusive and the buttons are not a form of decoration shown on these garments. You do see these kinds of buttons on the <a href="https://matsukazesewing.blogspot.com/2015/12/dungiven-jacket-documentation-and.html" target="_blank">Dungiven jacket</a>, which is 16th-17th century Irish. Buttonholes are <a href="https://matsukazesewing.blogspot.com/2015/07/buttonholes-through-periods.html" target="_blank">standard Elizabethan form</a>, worked in silk buttonhole twist. I figure the buttons can be replaced with something more decorative later, if desired--I did briefly consider covering them in the silk thread or even gilt leather but...as said, I felt that unobtrusive would look best. In order to support the buttonholes and prevent them from going through the linen lining (which may need replacing eventually) I applied a facing of the same silk, but apparently neglected to take photos.<br />
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For the sleeve fastenings, I made the buttons smaller, and instead of buttonholes I used picot loops in the buttonhole silk (loops of thread, then covered with half-hitches/blanket-stitch). This choice was made primarily to allow the sleeves to be lengthened if I found it necessary--the loops can be removed, buttonholes can't. You can just barely see one below the fringe on the left sleeve.<br />
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<h4>
Other Garments being Worn:</h4>
Leine: This is essentially the same pattern as<a href="https://matsukazesewing.blogspot.com/2017/06/whose-sleives-hang-trailing-down-almost.html" target="_blank"> my first one</a>, made a good 10" longer as I planned. I also obviously used a lighter shade of yellow linen, which is closer to the colour from Saffron dyeing. The other difference from there is that I used inset sleeves, with a fairly simple S curve sleeve cap and armscye, and turned it so that the underarm seam was slightly to the back in the hopes that it would improve the drape (jury is still out, as I haven't yet worn it to compare).<br />
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Also being worn is a brat which was one of my rare commissions by a friend (colour choices based on his heraldry). Construction of that is also the same as on my Brat (linked somewhere above). Used instead of mine, because my Brat is heavily worn.<br />
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Finally, she is wearing <a href="https://matsukazesewing.blogspot.com/2019/09/i-knitted-aa.html" target="_blank">the thrum hat</a> I gifted her last year. Perhaps not the perfect hat to match the outfit, but it was bloody cold out, and it is appropriate for her 16th Cen sailor persona (who I suspect would have been more likely to be wearing anglicized clothing).<br />
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<h4>
Conclusions (and what I learned):</h4>
This was a rather interesting project. Not just because I was using a few new techniques and working with new materials, but because of the deadline--I had two weeks to make it. Which meant I had to push myself physically and especially mentally, particularly due to the cold snap we had coinciding with it; when it's -30F, I do not want to sew, or do anything except be buried under blankets. The silk was fairly easy to work with--it is tightly woven enough to behave, and I did test fraying before deciding to use it for the applique.<br />
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The gilt leather was definitely a new experience to work with, but also wasn't difficult to use. I found that it was best to avoid stretching it any more than you have to, as that dulled the shine, and because of the size the seam allowance (small as possible), when they are pierced it was better to have the needle enter from the right side of the leather. Keeping my stitches even was difficult, and I definitely had to keep concentrating to do so.<br />
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I did not originally plan to line the garment, but decided to do so after the fact in order to neaten up--and more importantly protect--the back of my embroidery. I'm glad I did.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZnczLNpE_yhB6RqOJ3jZXkUQvD4Ibo0F-WNegb8fI0hkzfnPqrHkYrW6zXSYdOi6-zIA5f2VFgbhTt8ig_BEeFL-XZeeUuNnbSSnG4b7Zq7cFx710zaLxlKYNZHf3RIJpRqtQVAJ-yGM/s1600/DSCN1855.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZnczLNpE_yhB6RqOJ3jZXkUQvD4Ibo0F-WNegb8fI0hkzfnPqrHkYrW6zXSYdOi6-zIA5f2VFgbhTt8ig_BEeFL-XZeeUuNnbSSnG4b7Zq7cFx710zaLxlKYNZHf3RIJpRqtQVAJ-yGM/s640/DSCN1855.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo by Twobears Photography</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<h4>
What I would do differently next time:</h4>
I would really like to step up my gilt leather game, and use both real gold leaf and documentable methods of applying it to the leather (initial research says a combination of gum ammonia and garlic juice....yum). Likewise actually weaving the trim. <br />
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For the construction, it was mostly standard techniques. I would definitely take more care that the width of the skirts was properly even--I missed that until after I had sewn it in place and had it all overcast, so I couldn't just trim it.<br />
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<h4>
Time: </h4>
Overall, the project took 47 hours, with approximately 16 of that spent on the trim (but the hours doing trim were relaxing, so went fast. The Witcher was binged during that step).<br />
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Costs: Unknown, as I would prefer to not think of it. I used one piece of the gilt leather (bought two), and maybe 1/2-2/3 of the silk thread, so probably not as much as I think, really. Value is somewhere around or a bit over $600US (at $12/hr).<br />
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<h4>
Bibliography:</h4>
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<br />
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‘A View of the Present State of Ireland’
<<a href="http://www.ucc.ie/celt/published/E500000-001/" target="_blank">http://www.ucc.ie/celt/published/E500000-001/</a>> [accessed 23 November
2016]</div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
Mikhaila, Ninya, and Jane Malcolm-Davies, The Tudor
Tailor, 5th edn (Costume and Fashion Press, 2015)</div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
Netherton, Robin, and Gale R. Owen-Crocker, Medieval
Clothing and Textiles 8 (Boydell Press, 2012) [Accessed 1-28-2020 as a Google Book sample]</div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
‘Textil #03410’
<<a href="https://digitaltmuseum.se/021026989779/textil" target="_blank">https://digitaltmuseum.se/021026989779/textil</a>> [accessed 28 January
2020]</div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
Flavin, Susan,<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>‘Consumption and Material Culture in Sixteenth Century Ireland’
[accessed 24 May 2017]</div>
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<br /></div>
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Ellis, Steven, ‘BBC - History - Turning Ireland
English’<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><<a href="http://www.bbc.co.uk/history/british/tudors/elizabeth_ireland_01.shtml" target="_blank">http://www.bbc.co.uk/history/british/tudors/elizabeth_ireland_01.shtml</a>>
[accessed 24 May 2017]</div>
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‘Making a 16th Century Leine & “Kerns” Jacket’ <<a href="http://moghroith.blogspot.com/2013/01/making-16th-century-leine-kerns-jacket.html" target="_blank">http://moghroith.blogspot.com/2013/01/making-16th-century-leine-kerns-jacket.html</a>>
[accessed 3 March 2017]</div>
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McClintock, H.F.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Old Irish and Highland Dress.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>(Dundalgan Press, Dundalk.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>1943)<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>PDF Copy.</div>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<pre></pre>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6S5jzgHuVaWcL83v-xa1ZwSe12JjlVBx3S7fzpMxn1IVSIhXjNbXSNRxQZuMTWVa0erLCzAMI9iuUJyhCXeeHl2bJ4YW3Xnprcy5YFCRHleQQtWPi2A3YGW3jCO0H5Aq-vtF7HjoEmrs/s1600/83262991_2470267869769581_5953143655182106624_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1077" data-original-width="1440" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6S5jzgHuVaWcL83v-xa1ZwSe12JjlVBx3S7fzpMxn1IVSIhXjNbXSNRxQZuMTWVa0erLCzAMI9iuUJyhCXeeHl2bJ4YW3Xnprcy5YFCRHleQQtWPi2A3YGW3jCO0H5Aq-vtF7HjoEmrs/s320/83262991_2470267869769581_5953143655182106624_o.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
Have some cheese for reading so far. This was an attempted fresh <a href="https://cheesemaking.com/collections/recipes/products/bel-paese-recipeKD8LwrskXlmcGDMub9kkAB3fWmLA36XA" target="_blank">Bel Paesa style</a> cheese I made for the event and her elevation. Given that maybe 4oz survived out of the 2.5lb wheel, it was apparently popular.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
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Brann mac Finnchadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04614813862245766203noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2468874881802139741.post-6350501499479350162019-10-16T17:19:00.002-08:002019-10-21T14:19:07.922-08:00Leather Party Pluderhose: The DocumentationThe party pluderhose is a project I had been thinking about for some time--I wanted a pair of pluderhose which were a bit more durable, and which I actually handsewed (<a href="https://matsukazesewing.blogspot.com/2017/01/1570s-brunswick-man-overview.html" target="_blank">the Brunswick suit</a> was machine sewn, if with a considerable amount of handwork).<br />
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Once again, I have a love/hate relationship with this garment--they are
so extra that I love them, along with the challenge of drafting them.
On the other hand, they have a lot of material in them so are not
particularly lightweight to wear, and do require the wearing of
stockings. Also, while period codpieces only had two points holding
them up, because I make most of my late period gear for SCA fencing, it
needs to be more secure than that--and tying those fiddly little points with cold hands is a nuisance.<br />
<br />
This is the full documentation, which covers just about every step of my design, construction, and decisions. If you just want to look at the photo shoot and read an overview, <a href="https://matsukazesewing.blogspot.com/2019/08/party-pluderhose-and-chocolate-doublet.html" target="_blank">click here</a> for my previous post. <br />
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<a name='more'></a><br />
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<h4>
Description of the Garment:</h4>
Pluderhose are one of the distinctive garments in 16th century German clothing, and evolved from the hosen/strumpfhosen of earlier in the century presumably by adding more and more fabric in the lining layer. They appear to show up in the 1550s, and are only in style for a few decades. On the whole, they consist of a more or less straight-legged set of panes which come to anywhere from mid calf to the knee, with the hosen shortening as the decades moved on. Unlike the round or trunk hosen of other countries, they are fitted to the hips and mostly drape, rather than sticking out.<br />
<br />
Much like other styles of upper class clothing of the period, they were a form of conspicuous consumption--using large quantities of expensive fabrics, and quite possibly pinking (cutting small holes) them as well. Beyond that...they are another example of evolution from hosen--just leg coverings, because while trousers aren't required for some cultures, they kinda are once the hem of you upper garment rises above the lower thigh.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photograph copyright Travis Abe-Thomas</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<h4>
My Goals:</h4>
So. Overall premise of the project was fairly simple; I wanted pluderhose, I wanted them to be somewhat "extra", and I wanted them to be functional both on the rapier field and for late night bardics. This meant a few things: <br />
<ul>
<li>They needed to be in durable and less than flammable materials.</li>
<li>Must be easy to use the restroom in--while they would still tie closed, I wanted larger points and fewer of them.</li>
<li>No stockings required, so that I would not have to fight with those not staying up late at night. This means that they needed to be long enough to wear with normal socks if desired.</li>
<li>They must meet SCA rapier requirements to prevent a blade from slipping into openings. Meeting this requirement necessitated some anachronisms.</li>
<li>Pockets. Enough said there.</li>
</ul>
Therefore, some compromises were needed to move from being strictly authentic--mainly the use of internal plackets and...horror of horrors...velcro.<br />
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While the garment style is somewhat extra, I could have gone more so--I did not include the extra puffs on the waist, which are sometimes a part of pluderhose. And I used fairly tame, complimentary colours--dark brown and green--instead of clashing bright ones as people seam to think German clothing /Must/ be. Needless to say, I do not agree; while the Lansknechts often may have, not all German Renaissance men were mercenary soldiers...my outfit certainly is not intended to have that interpretation. My aim was more along the lines of, say, a noble's hunting outfit--you clearly needed to be fashionable, but not impractical, and some degree of camouflage might help.<br />
<br />
Although, I would suggest the addition of a bright red hat if wearing during deer season.<br />
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<h4>
Sources:</h4>
I had to document a few things in particular for this garment; the length of the pluderhose, and the wearing of long pluderhose with a close fitting doublet (rather than one which had hugely poofy sleeves)--this was my preference for simplicity and the amount of fabric I had on hand for the doublet. Separately, I wanted to document the use of different pinking patterns on each leg, although that was really optional--I didn't have to use different patterns, of course. The last was firmly documenting the odd seaming of the butt of the pluderhose--while my pattern is based on extant examples which have it, I wanted a pictorial example as well. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBE2-miZDVW9JYn9Oli07C0XzDqmB_gfwzj678ZPEv6eh1YMf4hW5rSigOL8u66r4CgBlgVHEMA3n2gueGoMj0VXkocS63ZSWuFeNgvi02wIHbcKHMtgFhQxBqXrBNgRwPnJjZ8nE7wAw/s1600/AN00105962_001_l.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="470" data-original-width="304" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBE2-miZDVW9JYn9Oli07C0XzDqmB_gfwzj678ZPEv6eh1YMf4hW5rSigOL8u66r4CgBlgVHEMA3n2gueGoMj0VXkocS63ZSWuFeNgvi02wIHbcKHMtgFhQxBqXrBNgRwPnJjZ8nE7wAw/s640/AN00105962_001_l.jpg" width="411" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.britishmuseum.org/research/collection_online/collection_object_details.aspx?objectId=1595859&partId=1&people=107034&peoA=107034-2-60&page=1" target="_blank">A Standard Bearer. British Museum, #1952,0405.225</a></td></tr>
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Example of longer pluderhose being worn. Based on the fact that the panes have very little drape in this example as compared to others, I think documenting the length like this is less problematic as I originally believe. The majority of examples from this period are apparently fastened just below the knee, and blouse out from there...if you visualize them being loose, they stop right about there--mid-calf.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-27ZfA24w2SMkd1X80LE1XUjGsAYuq4tE7R7GRrfO7StzlptjPaPTbQWktKXIAUvfukgu8p6ktA0u9pmMluTEvcU1I0cN2d6g1F0GZlKRoQD3794XAerLK0hoLHokClGw9zrM98GSzag/s1600/The_Butcher_and_his_Servant_drawn_and_engraved_by_J_Amman_Sixteenth_Century.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="465" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-27ZfA24w2SMkd1X80LE1XUjGsAYuq4tE7R7GRrfO7StzlptjPaPTbQWktKXIAUvfukgu8p6ktA0u9pmMluTEvcU1I0cN2d6g1F0GZlKRoQD3794XAerLK0hoLHokClGw9zrM98GSzag/s400/The_Butcher_and_his_Servant_drawn_and_engraved_by_J_Amman_Sixteenth_Century.png" width="310" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:The_Butcher_and_his_Servant_drawn_and_engraved_by_J_Amman_Sixteenth_Century.png" target="_blank">The Butcher and His Servant, J Amman. </a></td></tr>
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Two for one! Documenting longer pluderhose with a close fitting doublet--and without shoulder wings to boot! /And/ an extremely exaggerated example of the funky butt. As an aside, I love his doublet, with the tiny, curved pinks or poofs all over. I may make it one of these days...the only reason I didn't for this time was lack of trim fabric and time.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhc9yW_LQF5APr8RkQsfIPJ6XOMADzZTjb4oaxZa77v91tuvaLIrJpy5WLPVqZpcHl7ZVje5787EOQnF45F2SWhsr3UxS0SZ_J2dpKQLbnDzFiKYi5O-HyBpXKbDeanQ3gAZ2SBDE_GWp0/s1600/1550s+Swiss+woodcut.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="584" data-original-width="938" height="396" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhc9yW_LQF5APr8RkQsfIPJ6XOMADzZTjb4oaxZa77v91tuvaLIrJpy5WLPVqZpcHl7ZVje5787EOQnF45F2SWhsr3UxS0SZ_J2dpKQLbnDzFiKYi5O-HyBpXKbDeanQ3gAZ2SBDE_GWp0/s640/1550s+Swiss+woodcut.png" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.getty.edu/art/collection/objects/274/jost-amman-an-officer-of-the-rank-of-'oberster-feldprofoss'-in-the-imperial-army-swiss-1556/" target="_blank">Jost Amman. Getty Museum, Object #89.GA.15</a></td></tr>
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An Officer of the Rank of 'Oberster Feldprofoss' in the Imperial Army is the title of this piece, and it clearly shows pinking of different styles on each leg, as well as completely different pane patterns. I attempted to use this for more inspiration--cutting the panes of one leg to the 'X' shape...but was unable to manage it. I can draft complex patterns, but apparently not draw an X--it was rather upsetting. <br />
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At some point in the future, I also intend to make a cape and hat based on this woodcut in order to round out the outfit. This style of tall, rounded hat with narrow brim is apparently referenced to as a "Saxon hat" [<i>FBoF, pp 211</i>].<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifsK5cTTOWNQKUDBfAFckT857a6AU9_KkE3S1qjtZ5GniUcG4RimGBc50smKAHvaq-_vcvnp0JTloKF9I90uwin7BTzU4sK_DTOtNrH4uiC8igpRTX12c4W1psYJ7ZP3yt173hg3rhEcQ/s1600/Sture+suits.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="675" data-original-width="483" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifsK5cTTOWNQKUDBfAFckT857a6AU9_KkE3S1qjtZ5GniUcG4RimGBc50smKAHvaq-_vcvnp0JTloKF9I90uwin7BTzU4sK_DTOtNrH4uiC8igpRTX12c4W1psYJ7ZP3yt173hg3rhEcQ/s400/Sture+suits.jpg" width="285" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://depts.washington.edu/silkroad/museums/upcath/upcath.html" target="_blank">Sture Suits in the Uppsala Cathedral Museum</a></td></tr>
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The last bit of sourcing was for the pattern<i>, </i>which is based on the sketches in <i>Patterns of Fashion 3<b> </b></i>by <i>Janet Arnold, </i>and the Sture pluderhose therein<b>. </b>My pluderhose drafting system is mostly based on the middle one in the above image, which was worn by Nils Sture.<br />
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<h4>
Materials: </h4>
As in a few details of the construction for practicality, I made one or two decisions on the materials which are difficult to document. From inside of the garment to the outside:<br />
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The base shorts were sewn and pieced of deerskin splits from Uncle George's Discount Leather...I do not particularly recommend the product, btw. What he doesn't say is that these are the off side of the split, so the leather varies from tissue thin (and holey) to 5+oz. Thankfully, they /were/ cheap and I purchased enough of them (with the thought of deerskin breeches as well) that I could easily piece the shorts. This type of leather is probably the closest (and easily available) to what is used in the extant garments--a heavy, suede finished leather, possibly deerskin or heavy chamois <i>[PoF3, pp. 62, 66]</i>. This material was chosen because I wanted to get as close to the period option as possible. The leather is also surprisingly soft and comfortable.<br />
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The next layer out--the poofy lining--is a hand-dyed silk canvas, which I had intended to use in my <a href="https://matsukazesewing.blogspot.com/2017/03/plotting-next-major-projectanother.html" target="_blank">Hasting's Suit</a>...but did a poor job getting the green even in the end. The unevenness wasn't acceptable for a court suit where it is the outer layer, but I figured that using it for a lining layer like this would be perfectly fine, and would let me get a good use out of it. Especially as it is intended as a more "practical" garment...the slight unevenness helps me blend into the trees (really!). The silk canvas is one which I purchased from Fashion Fabrics Club several years ago; while the site is very much buyer beware, sometimes you get lucky. As in this case, with some of the heaviest and tightest woven 100% silk (fully passed a bleach test) I've gotten my grubby mitts on. While silk canvas does not appear to have been a thing, the poof layer of pluderhose did often appear to be silk, and often backed with a linen to increase stiffness.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDnT-gVMP5oMicH6R4UX9IhmS-HQ9OczMgXkxKu-3SOsIahO1xqLv09jvAT1JssQ23DGoej2vYIFloCK4fCzrL2Dj1FeX-bd_3QxBVNOxTzaNjwhq-67n67dlKZPRExpuBcovbbW3nHIo/s1600/DSCN0431.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDnT-gVMP5oMicH6R4UX9IhmS-HQ9OczMgXkxKu-3SOsIahO1xqLv09jvAT1JssQ23DGoej2vYIFloCK4fCzrL2Dj1FeX-bd_3QxBVNOxTzaNjwhq-67n67dlKZPRExpuBcovbbW3nHIo/s400/DSCN0431.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
Finally, the outer panes. I knew I wanted leather for this, even if it isn't easily documentable. It isn't used in the Sture suits (except for Nil's doublet), but there is some documentation for the use of leather in hosen as the material for hosen in the 1615-1620 suit on page 90 of <i>PoF3</i>. There is also an excellent reference to leather hosen in <i>The First Book of Fashion</i>, pp. 212.<br />
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
This thorn <i>{?}</i> was stiffened with bone, cost me 12fl even without the armor. Otherwise my clothes were as shown below, leather hose with half silk.</blockquote>
It appears the "half silk" refers to when hosen had the outer or primary fabric of some other fabric, and unspecified silk as the decoration.<br />
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The leather I used was also from Uncle George's Leather Shop, and was labeled as both deer-tanned cowhide, or re-tanned veg-tan--I bought four half hides of the stuff, in two shipments, and thinking they were different items. Imagine my surprise when I found they weren't--it turned out fine, because I have a use for two full hides of leather, but still...accurate descriptions in sales is important. I also have some good deer tan cowhide from Tandy leather--it is quite a bit softer (deliciously so!) and better draping than this stuff.<br />
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And lastly, thread. I used linen thread throughout, in a variety of sizes and colours. Black linen thread for finer stitching on the silk as well as tunnel stitching on the leather, the leather was sewn with 16/2 linen in a close of a brown as I could find, and the deerskin was sewn with a variety of white linen threads. Exactly which size of thread depended on the seam, as well as the exact thickness of the leather in question. And whether I felt like fighting the fine thread that sewing session.<br />
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Other bits used which could come under the notions category is the heavy use of beeswax and coad (a heat activated resin) to wax my threads for durability and to make them behave.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipOci-DJLBz152jKQaQzHgfXIEPxe8Y1ljtCU1nrbOAa7lEYPQtTRNrRqb3vcoKOc9Crida02mbxTCtfcAZjmmCCN68lyvFOYzAkc6NvhFljyZEtePf99KcWp6N-BVVBhMz4dzW9zhMkU/s1600/73052640_2755748181111731_384176380721496064_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipOci-DJLBz152jKQaQzHgfXIEPxe8Y1ljtCU1nrbOAa7lEYPQtTRNrRqb3vcoKOc9Crida02mbxTCtfcAZjmmCCN68lyvFOYzAkc6NvhFljyZEtePf99KcWp6N-BVVBhMz4dzW9zhMkU/s400/73052640_2755748181111731_384176380721496064_o.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photograph copyright Travis Abe-Thomas</td></tr>
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<br />
<h4>
Pattern:</h4>
The pattern was problematic. I started this project on February 7th, 2018...and ran into issues right away. My plan had been to use my <a href="https://matsukazesewing.blogspot.com/2016/01/revenge-of-pluderhose-madness-returns.html" target="_blank">original method</a> for pattern drafting. I drafted it out, and found I couldn't move in the slightest. They didn't work, and the primary issue was the width of the rise. In the end, I believe I went through at least four versions of the base shorts before arriving on one which worked. Thankfully, I was taking notes throughout, and in the end, published an updated version of my base shorts drafting method, which can be <a href="https://matsukazesewing.blogspot.com/2018/04/bad-penny-pluderhose-drafting.html" target="_blank">found here</a>.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdgkmok2qDNji-JLPje4biVhBFaC6yMHemP_ZbvZ_jq6XH-FxatbXohcNBkxuyrdjNFQh99yqagimXITN6aiTwWkujROfE9HcA7DZzFHnu3Tmi8PvPo66HW6KDN2iWVS60YSkn_DOJ_ag/s1600/IMG_20180219_215903.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1197" data-original-width="1600" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdgkmok2qDNji-JLPje4biVhBFaC6yMHemP_ZbvZ_jq6XH-FxatbXohcNBkxuyrdjNFQh99yqagimXITN6aiTwWkujROfE9HcA7DZzFHnu3Tmi8PvPo66HW6KDN2iWVS60YSkn_DOJ_ag/s400/IMG_20180219_215903.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
The first version. You can see how narrow the rise--the cutout there--is. It don't work like that.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1BZJ7RvxnG0Q7EeHqKsb-NTj3rIOpfgjv01sVKp6EnFX96GT_VAdNBiMKG-K1JrhIhyXtZxQC59RKOwGyKGtad-O8-F9sC7uiiyjQMezFMgdxS5Ff40MZ2KsGqOxqQiUtzCX7AX2nUTQ/s1600/IMG_20180402_162524.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1197" data-original-width="1600" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1BZJ7RvxnG0Q7EeHqKsb-NTj3rIOpfgjv01sVKp6EnFX96GT_VAdNBiMKG-K1JrhIhyXtZxQC59RKOwGyKGtad-O8-F9sC7uiiyjQMezFMgdxS5Ff40MZ2KsGqOxqQiUtzCX7AX2nUTQ/s400/IMG_20180402_162524.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
And the final version--note the differences. Much wider on the rise, which gives a correspondingly wider thigh as well. The center back seam (left) is also much longer. For writing drafting tutorials, I like to do it scaled down on paper, as it is much easier to get clean lines and photograph.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6TQvGSxhKvpqi7045NKKIv0y6Jk6T-TIzjwQUVCoD9ia_7gj-YYHpkcr4sGY-uVH9ofm-KU7NS-fCASxFEm5SALZ8NvkD3p44ZO2fqdPt0VStnqQMsIJY-isCaOOa-LMO97FG69z-Fhw/s1600/IMG_20180514_150021.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1197" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6TQvGSxhKvpqi7045NKKIv0y6Jk6T-TIzjwQUVCoD9ia_7gj-YYHpkcr4sGY-uVH9ofm-KU7NS-fCASxFEm5SALZ8NvkD3p44ZO2fqdPt0VStnqQMsIJY-isCaOOa-LMO97FG69z-Fhw/s400/IMG_20180514_150021.jpg" width="298" /></a></div>
Overall, once the base shorts are drafted, it is fairly simple to do the rest; the poof layer is more or less a rectangle pleated or gathered to fit at waist and cuff with a shortened section for between the legs. The panes are based on the base shorts by shifting and separating the butt seam, and lengthening it overall while eliminating the taper of the legs.<br />
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The number of panes was determined by what I find pleasing to the eye--you see examples of any number from 4-7. I believe there was also some finagling due to inconsistencies in the leather.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDnx6a6tRanqM21SlUKpc9Nk98bX1Fp91HBzQgwH2twKFMSGe7heTTtuXlq7NqUGQuiSumd-oQDQy_5AeffqeVBhlX__rAYl9C2IJ5zb1vTY1vHkEpXBXcJ3V66tzj79X53fbc_s4vF-Y/s1600/IMG_20180403_073818.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1197" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDnx6a6tRanqM21SlUKpc9Nk98bX1Fp91HBzQgwH2twKFMSGe7heTTtuXlq7NqUGQuiSumd-oQDQy_5AeffqeVBhlX__rAYl9C2IJ5zb1vTY1vHkEpXBXcJ3V66tzj79X53fbc_s4vF-Y/s400/IMG_20180403_073818.jpg" width="298" /></a></div>
At one point I did experiment with cutting the panes into an 'X' shaped layer as seen in the Jost Amman woodcut...I eventually gave that hope up when I discovered I was unable to actually draw an X. :/<br />
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<h4>
Seams:</h4>
I kept it simple--the majority of seams in the leather were done in a double running stitch, or a saddle stitch. The two seams end up looking more or less the same, but on a double running (or Holbein stitch) stitch you go over the same seam twice, and saddle stitch is worked with a needle on either end of the thread. Overcast or whip stitches were also used, as was a tunneling version.<br />
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<h4>
</h4>
<h4>
Construction: </h4>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7Cc_PFj-ZeZzP2E39MFtS5weNiYkWiW4II8c973Aj97LzCsZgjRFeBqeEsybYTSevFEa8kH4ucPGeLMGiCALDJjLOqLoer7dy5PZ7s9y8EakLuGrb4M3UFR_d0hAo24sEu_YyuAxjIHA/s1600/IMG_20180424_115726.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1197" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7Cc_PFj-ZeZzP2E39MFtS5weNiYkWiW4II8c973Aj97LzCsZgjRFeBqeEsybYTSevFEa8kH4ucPGeLMGiCALDJjLOqLoer7dy5PZ7s9y8EakLuGrb4M3UFR_d0hAo24sEu_YyuAxjIHA/s320/IMG_20180424_115726.jpg" width="239" /></a></div>
The first step, of course, was to piece together the base shorts. Each side is nominally one piece, but as I said in the section on my materials, I was unable to cut them in one. The seams were done with a double running or Holbein stitch--this is the same stitch used for blackwork embroidery. The seam allowance on one side was trimmed, and the other side felled on top of it. I did have to patch a few small holes, and did so by whip-stitching a patch both around the outside and the inside the hole.<br />
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One of the features of the Nils Sture base shorts was the addition of piping in certain seams for reinforcement. I did so on the butt seam, with it continuing down the leg slightly. The piping was simply a medium weight strip of my leather, folded in half to be slightly wider than my seam allowance.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifOzH1fM2x8UtKBAa2Tt6xhnieFnejvoZMFwl1imWqcQnvNhf5C62RhgKYFmRQ91c-phwx5ede1BaCGbiaovjCIxiRoNJvPMhAhVnbWmrXX_2k0TEhyB79G0qabyBpufAEACibUBu2iRU/s1600/IMG_20180506_062727.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1197" data-original-width="1600" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifOzH1fM2x8UtKBAa2Tt6xhnieFnejvoZMFwl1imWqcQnvNhf5C62RhgKYFmRQ91c-phwx5ede1BaCGbiaovjCIxiRoNJvPMhAhVnbWmrXX_2k0TEhyB79G0qabyBpufAEACibUBu2iRU/s320/IMG_20180506_062727.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
I cannot remember if I basted the piping in place, or simply "pinned" the heck out of it as you can see above. This is one of my favourite tricks when working with garment weight leather...use paper clips instead of the pins which would leave permanent holes.<br />
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Once that seam was sewn, the seam allowances were graded (trimmed as shown above) to reduce bulk, and felled. Felling all the seams here is important--while they aren't against my skin and will never be seen, they need to behave and not be lumpy.<br />
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The panes, arranged on half of a cow of "deer tan" cowhide. As you can see, I couldn't quite fit it, and pieced in the bits of the back seam. These were sewn with a saddle stitch, then felled and topstitched with the same.<br />
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I treated the edges of the panes differently on each leg. On one leg, I essentially perforated the pane line with a hole punch...yes, it took a while. <br />
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The other leg received pinking cuts at 45* across the pane edge, to give a slightly feathered appearance with wear.<br />
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Funky butt piece sewn into place after that--same method, with saddle stitch and topstitched seams.<br />
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I also used two different pinking patterns. On one side, this diagonal pattern. On the other, a compass star--the populace badge of Oertha. Thus far, nobody has noted that. <br />
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I was asked to show my process for pinking...this is it. Fairly simple. I make a cardboard template (out of a cracker box, usually...), and just keep wacking my chisel or hole punch with a plastic/rawhide mallet. Underneath, I have a heavy plastic cutting board.<br />
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The panes from each leg, next to each other. Two different patterns, as you can see. On the compass side, I would not be surprised if I tore a pane there--if it happens, I'll just have to repair it.<br />
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One of the requirements for these pants was pockets. Big pockets. Pockets which can easily hold a bottle of wine for nefarious reasons.<br />
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After much self debate, I decided to use a heavy linen in this russet-brown; it is justscrap fabric which I had laying around--I have a fair amount of the stuff, and this exact one was chosen because I had enough at hand and it compliments the green. I had considered using more of the deerskin, but at that point was fed up with working the stuff, plus I felt it could stick to said wine bottles and make them hard to extract.<br />
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The pocket construction is based on those in the Sir Richard Cotton suit, as detailed on page 77 of <i>17th-Century Men's Dress Patterns.</i> This is not the first step.<br />
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This is.<br />
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As detailed, the pocket openings are bound in narrow strips of silk--just a simple binding, nothing fancy. This strip happens to be far too narrow, and gave me trouble.<br />
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Essentially, the next step is to sew the pocketing on top of that in a way that the raw edges are to the inside--the binding doesn't actually cover the raw edges.<br />
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Binding is pulled through and neatly (as I can) sewn up with the vertical seam. The final step of the pocketing is to fold it so the vertical seam is in the middle, and close up the bottom. This allows the pockets to be slightly flatter against the leg. I will have to do a tutorial next time I make pockets in this style.<br />
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It was time to separate the panes and begin wrestling the leather octopus! Obviously, I just neatly followed the lines. You can also see the other leg's pattern here.<br />
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Around the funky butt piece, the lining was sewn down to the leather, using a tunneling overcast stitch. This allows the pieces to move as one and prevents gaps, since the pattern of the silk layer is essentially a rectangle, and additionally you don't want that extra fabric where you sit.<br />
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Looking through Patterns of fashion, I determined that the most period place to have the fastening would be on the inner leg...which means I had to bind the opening. Again, I didn't give myself enough width to do so easily, but managed. Before this step, I also basted the silk and the leather layers together at the top and bottom, lining the pleated sections up with the gaps.<br />
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And tolerably neatly bound.<br />
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An additional feature here is that I have a small placket of leather
tucked away behind there in order to give me my overlap for
fencing--help prevent a blade from slipping in and getting caught,
although that is extremely unlikely to happen. I sewed it down along the line of the silk in order to hide the stitches.<br />
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And for one of the worst steps of this garment...gathering the cuff. Because I was dedicated to using period materials and not, say, 200lb mono-filament line, Breakage happened. Repeatedly.<br />
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In the end, I had to run the gathering stitches per pane and be quite careful in drawing them up.<br />
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Once gathered, I whipstitched them in place just to hold the stitches, then backstitched through all the layers.<br />
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Isn't it pretty? <br />
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And then I discovered that I forgot to take the thickness of the pleats into account, and had to start this bit all over with cuffs about 2.5" longer. I was not pleased at all.<br />
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Eventually, I managed to get it done correctly, and proceeded to whipstitch the inside of the cuff down. The leather cuffs are just a simple rectangle which ended up being only a couple of fingers wide--all that is really needed. The stitching through the leather pane is tunnel stitched so it doesn't show on the right side.<br />
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The last step on here was to install the base shorts. They are only attached to the rest of the garment along the front rise and top--I just basted them in place, here.<br />
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The codpiece was a tricky little devil, as always. I believe I am finally getting the hang of them though--the base layer isn't difficult--it is just a triangle, really--but the sculptural bit is. I decided to use tiny darts to give it shape.<br />
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And testing the pattern. Yay...it worked. I had planned to use this as an interlining to keep the stuffing from migrating, but because of the differences between this and the leather shell, doing so didn't work--this was eventually discarded as scrap.<br />
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Switching to the leather, pleats were not an option due to the thickness of the material. Neither was using massive number of slashes. So I evened out the amount the pleats removed, decided on three sets of slashes...pretty much the maximum I have seen. <br />
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And removed the requisite amount of material in a slightly radial pattern.<br />
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The following step was more difficult than you would think...installing the poofs. At this point, I had very little of my silk left, so I had to make a few compromises on size. The poofs are essentially rectangles of fabric, pleated down to nothing on the ends and gathered on the long sides. The ends consisted of stacked knife pleats, pointing down--I did some experimenting and found that gave the appearance I liked best. For reference, the largest (middle) is 13.25" by 12", and the smallest 9" by 9.5" (bottom). The top one is in between.<br />
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The poofs were sewn down to the leather by topstitching with a backstitch. I also pre-punched my stitching holes in order to make it less difficult and (much) neater.<br />
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Finally, I actually sewed the slashes together from the wrong side, just roughly cris-crossing the back to hold them shut and prevent the stuffing from working its way in there.<br />
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I had a hard time thinking of the best way to secure the two halves of my codpiece neatly. A straight up right sides together seam wouldn't work, due to the thickness of the silk there. Overlapping would make it asymmetrical--and therefore make me twitch. All that was left was butting the edges together, sewing them, then covering it with a narrow strip of leather which was then topstitched down.<br />
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This photo is slightly out of order and was taken after stuffing, as apparently I didn't take photos of that step.<br />
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To stuff the codpiece, I went with raw "cotton wool". Just straight up cotton fiber with some extraneous vegetation in it. While straw is easily documentable, and scraps of fabric are what I used in the past, this worked fairly well. Certainly much more even and less likely to be lumpy than the fabric scraps.<br />
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That said, packing it sufficiently tight to avoid a droopy codpiece made for a rather heavy codpiece. In the future, I /may/ actually try the period stuffing of straw, or maybe horsehair.<br />
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The backing was made fairly simply; I used my deerskin lining and roughly traced around the codpiece, and basted around the outside again.<br />
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Gratuitous codpiece photo from another angle.<br />
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In order to keep the stuffing where it is supposed to be...I had to figure out how to stitch the lining to the outer shell around base. I ended up doing so using a tunneling backstitch, as I did not want visible stitching on the outside. It was a major pain in the butt, but the codpiece was finally completed.<br />
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Additionally, the portion of the codpiece which isn't being sewn into the rise had to be bound in the silk, likewise the front opening of the pluderhose. The bindings were all straight and on grain, with any excess being neatly gathered.<br />
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Next step was to sew up the rise and install the codpiece. Because unlike ren-faire costume shops would have you believe, a codpiece is not a separate garment. It's a gusset or gore and installed like one.<br />
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The seams were sewn through /all/ layers of leather and silk, then flattened open and felled down.<br />
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Because that would not be particularly comfortable if they were exposed, I also covered the seams with a layer of my deerskin--it was simply whipstitched down. This also gives a little bit of reinforcement to the seam, which is needed. <br />
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The final steps were to bind the waist--deerskin again, sewn right sides together then overcast on the inside; sew the points--17 sets between the waistband (with nine points), the sets on the cuffs, and the ones holding up the codpiece.<br />
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As you can see, I also installed the front leather placket for fencing overlap at this point. I will have to redo the velcro one of these days--it is what allows me to /not/ use an extra 10 sets of points to secure everything.<br />
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By this point I had also made considerable progress on the doublet to go with it; I bring this up, because I designed them to have the same waist measurement for easy lacing, and I sewed the lacing band eyelets at the same time in order to make sure they match up.<br />
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<h4>
Conclusions:</h4>
Pluderhose are and always will be a bit of a pain to pattern and construct. Still, I am happier with the construction of this pair more than the previous ones, I learned a few things about working with leather as well...I had never actually made a leather garment before. Things like piping were all new to me. I had never done eyelets in leather (buttonholes, certainly), and that was interesting to do.<br />
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<h4>
What I would do differently next time:</h4>
Not make them in leather. Once was enough on that count! I would also probably machine sew them, although the length of actual seams on the garment is surprisingly low, and therefore not a major time sink compared to the handfinishing which is required. I would try other stuffings for the codpiece--something springy like straw or horsehair.<br />
I do like the leather base shorts, as they are buttery soft...but given the amount of labour it required and how difficult it was to handsew using glover's needles made it not really worth it for me to do again. Even if I was considering it on the 1590s trunkhose I recently started (signs of my madness for sure, but thankfully I don't have enough leather leftover).<br />
<br />
One of the other things I would like to do differently is to not have to take shortcuts on the amount of fabric I have for the poofy lining; in each of the three pluderhose I've made, I've barely got enough width in each leg. Having more than enough of that fabric to begin with, without skimping, would be lovely.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIU0qjcuNdxwU4X6DjeHrWcIiMF8pRKJv-uo1Wwl2lIdQSxwxNnxrjHh8rQtzU_tAg3PNreNBkD5S5JRP2KjXxE3BTvIWR3RSiBrvgynnxAGWr1-sXf5OXRUhC-KdoYRYnW_dna4Pag-Y/s1600/DSCN0414.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIU0qjcuNdxwU4X6DjeHrWcIiMF8pRKJv-uo1Wwl2lIdQSxwxNnxrjHh8rQtzU_tAg3PNreNBkD5S5JRP2KjXxE3BTvIWR3RSiBrvgynnxAGWr1-sXf5OXRUhC-KdoYRYnW_dna4Pag-Y/s400/DSCN0414.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
<br />
<h4>
How Historically Accurate is it:</h4>
Moderately. Pattern is accurate, as are the materials for the most part. If I were going to be extremely strict, the exterior leather is a touch modern in style--it should be alum tanned deer or elk--but I used what I had. The velcro and the plackets are obviously modern, but are extra pieces for fencing safety--they could easily be removed if desired. Stitching is all simple and correct.<br />
<br />
I would give it a 90%.<br />
<br />
<br />
<h4>
Time:</h4>
The project--not including time spent making mockup after mockup and rewriting my drafting system--took a full 78 hours and 38 minutes (approximately). The codpiece alone took about 15 hours of work, again, not including the patterning and troubleshooting.<br />
<br />
Value: I would really rather not think of it. I am fairly certain I don't have more than $150 in materials in it on the high end, which isn't bad considering the amount of time I spent on the project.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyTt2rMboJz3XPyf9eAUvFxLwz_V-PWpg2ct2yTxftuWVKkkHvS021eREO8BVdZa4pFXSODxqp_yMLIfa8UCiZMNfON2YTCNeMhfUpFcgjWVVX7oBQcBfWNmWGuBfUw2kx_Pmf59wzpHg/s1600/73341378_2755746357778580_1495503274550231040_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1193" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyTt2rMboJz3XPyf9eAUvFxLwz_V-PWpg2ct2yTxftuWVKkkHvS021eREO8BVdZa4pFXSODxqp_yMLIfa8UCiZMNfON2YTCNeMhfUpFcgjWVVX7oBQcBfWNmWGuBfUw2kx_Pmf59wzpHg/s400/73341378_2755746357778580_1495503274550231040_o.jpg" width="297" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photograph copyright Travis Abe-Thomas</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<h4>
Bibliography:</h4>
Amman, Jost, <i>Deutsch: Metzger Und Geselle Bei Der Schlachtung Eines Hausrinds, Holzstich Aus Dem Ständebuch von Jost Amman, 16. Jahrhundert.</i>, 1568, Paul Lacroix, ‘Manners, Custom and Dress During the Middle Ages and During the Renaissance Period’, available freely at Project Gutenberg <<a href="https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:The_Butcher_and_his_Servant_drawn_and_engraved_by_J_Amman_Sixteenth_Century.png" target="_blank">https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:The_Butcher_and_his_Servant_drawn_and_engraved_by_J_Amman_Sixteenth_Century.png</a>> [accessed 19 September 2019] <br />
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‘An Officer of the Rank of “Oberster Feldprofoss” in the Imperial Army (Getty Museum)’, <i>The J. Paul Getty in Los Angeles</i> <<a href="http://www.getty.edu/art/collection/objects/274/" target="_blank">http://www.getty.edu/art/collection/objects/274/</a>> [accessed 19 September 2019]</div>
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Arnold, Janet, <i>Patterns of Fashion 3</i>, 3 (Macmillian, 1985)</div>
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Braun, Melanie, Luca Costigliolo, Susan North, Claire Thornton, and Jenny Tiramani, <i>17th Century Men’s Dress Patterns; 1600 - 1630</i> (Thames & Hudson, 2016)</div>
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‘Soldiers’, <i>British Museum</i> <<a href="https://www.britishmuseum.org/research/collection_online/collection_object_details.aspx?objectId=1595859&partId=1&people=107034&peoA=107034-2-60&page=1" target="_blank">https://www.britishmuseum.org/research/collection_online/collection_object_details.aspx?objectId=1595859&partId=1&people=107034&peoA=107034-2-60&page=1</a>> [accessed 19 September 2019]</div>
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‘The Cathedral Museum, Uppsala’ <<a href="https://depts.washington.edu/silkroad/museums/upcath/upcath.html" target="_blank">https://depts.washington.edu/silkroad/museums/upcath/upcath.html</a>> [accessed 19 September 2019]</div>
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</div>
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Brann mac Finnchadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04614813862245766203noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2468874881802139741.post-6202385900529173292019-09-18T20:29:00.002-08:002019-09-19T15:59:55.011-08:00A Brief Discussion on Men's Stays<div style="text-align: left;">
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Corsets, stays, posture improvers, health belts....these are a few of the various terms for what I am discussing in this long awaited article. Each may be slightly different, but all have the effect of narrowing the waist (or containing it, in the case of King George IV), assisting or forcing better posture, or helping support the back much like a modern weightlifting belt does. In this article, I will be showing a variety of styles from different periods, and discussing them a little. I am /not/ looking deep into the extreme of tight lacing, or all the caricatures of Dandyism which are focused on by other articles, although I will touch briefly on them. These phenomena existed--there is no doubt about that, given the prevalence of mocking them--but my topic is more the common (if a bit vain) man who needed a bit of help with the fashionable shape, or wore one for back support.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrZ4_nYH8JR0dlChbpVWCg5_5H9P3rjBmxYU7sbIlRZO8c0x-1MKL9lZE2VCxoV7pVd5QlZJ3F1SQ-rsLRLthM_RhvbcCL5j1H74IeJRBZYvEO743IuNg_Z6_2zdiBxY7M4fIRKJbeJ9M/s1600/1893+Invicorator_belt.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="451" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrZ4_nYH8JR0dlChbpVWCg5_5H9P3rjBmxYU7sbIlRZO8c0x-1MKL9lZE2VCxoV7pVd5QlZJ3F1SQ-rsLRLthM_RhvbcCL5j1H74IeJRBZYvEO743IuNg_Z6_2zdiBxY7M4fIRKJbeJ9M/s640/1893+Invicorator_belt.png" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Invicorator Belt for Men, <br />
<a href="https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Invicorator_belt.png" target="_blank">1893 English advertisement</a>.<br />
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<a name='more'></a>The idea of reshaping your form to the current idea of what is fashionable has been around for a while; without digging too much, you can see it back to the late 14th century, where chest padding and garments tightly fitted to the waist and hips created a pigeon chest; puffed sleeve-heads gave an illusion of broad shoulders in the 15th century (and many other eras as well), and the less said about the <a href="https://artsandculture.google.com/asset/the-standard-bearer/CAFWVNSQNpfuoA?ms=%7B%22x%22%3A0.5%2C%22y%22%3A0.5%2C%22z%22%3A8.287183496141228%2C%22size%22%3A%7B%22width%22%3A3.7971171701440465%2C%22height%22%3A1.2375096826112626%7D%7D" target="_blank">extreme peascods</a> of the 1580s--which were built of many layers of padding and some whalebone--the better. For roughly a couple hundred years, menswear relaxed a bit in regards shaping the body; you still had some shaping and stiffening, but it wasn't generally too extreme, and generally was to support the fabric or fill in a hollow in the human form. In the 18th century fashions, coats tended towards set back armscyes, which help force the shoulders back and chest out. This became more extreme as time went on until you started seeing men's stays appear in the third or fourth quarter of the 18th century. That is not to say men's stays, bodies, or similar didn't appear earlier--but I am still waiting for evidence to show up before recommending the use of such devices to re-enactors. Clearly, not enough dandies were pushed into bogs for future preservation. If you are a time traveler reading this, please take pity on costumers and help out with that.<br />
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Going through the examples I have gathered, I see three main varieties with some hybridizing. The lifting-belt version, which would have barely covered the bottom of the ribs; the full stays/corset, which may have been exaggerated into an hourglass figure at times but typically wasn't; and the posture improver, which didn't cover the chest in the front, but had straps and a high back to force your shoulders back. As all three are on a sliding scale, and hybrids aren't that uncommon--my placement of a few is slightly arbitrary, although the posture improvers do have a unique feature, which you will see. You also see pants (underwear, not trousers) with a high waist and built in boning to suppress the waist.<br />
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<h4>
"Weight Belt" or Health Belt Style:</h4>
By far the most common version I have found, these were typically not all that wide, and did not go too far up the ribcage or down on the hips. While they did help with flattening the gut, there is also evidence of them being used by active men as back support, much the same as a modern weightlifter's belt. There may also be some evidence of belts being used for this much earlier in period as well; the Romans and Celts both wore wide belts in the military, which could have been back support (as well as armour)--I want to say there is a reference in <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/T%C3%A1in_B%C3%B3_C%C3%BAailnge" target="_blank"><i lang="mga" title="Middle Irish language text">The Táin Bó Cúailnge</i></a> to Fergus's belt holding in his aging gut, but am not sure whether I am remembering that that from an official translation or from one of the retellings I've read. On the Roman side, there is an extant find of belt fittings, commonly known as the<a href="http://www.comitatus.net/Documents/TheDorchester-on-ThamesBeltandtheSoldierwhoworeitbyPaulBrowne.pdf" target="_blank"> Dorchester Belt</a> which may have helped with a soldier's back support.<br />
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The <a href="https://www.facebook.com/AttiresMind/" target="_blank">Attire's Mind</a> Facebook page also made mention of Minoan culture having made apparent use of waist cinching belts (based on artwork), and while I don't agree with his speculation that they continued through history from then, it is an interesting thought and a worthwhile page to check out if you are interested in fashion.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXJf3N6JHBI0jtBY1opw3PWw_rCFl0vgs1mVFl0j5Bgg57DcWrW1DvQeNijCmt1vKJQPi4957Nu9agSSCP5oAUZmYDubkwPfEgvSaQO6IoYrRXZ9_jMHQ_m46cJfEXJh1PLrgS29fuxwE/s1600/1812+Thoman+Chew%2527s+Corset.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="163" data-original-width="320" height="203" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXJf3N6JHBI0jtBY1opw3PWw_rCFl0vgs1mVFl0j5Bgg57DcWrW1DvQeNijCmt1vKJQPi4957Nu9agSSCP5oAUZmYDubkwPfEgvSaQO6IoYrRXZ9_jMHQ_m46cJfEXJh1PLrgS29fuxwE/s400/1812+Thoman+Chew%2527s+Corset.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://ussconstitutionmuseum.org/2013/07/09/suck-it-in-purser-thomas-chews-corse/" target="_blank">USS Constitution, Thomas Chew's Corset</a></td></tr>
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The above is from a naval man in the War of 1812, and is in the USS Constitution museum. It is a fairly well known piece, and I believe it has been recreated once or twice--it has been on my project list for a while. The material is polished cotton with whalebone boning for strategic stiffening. The sides are stiffened by horizontal springs sewn between the two layers, giving some compressive support in the same way you see with modern elastic support belts--something I found to be extremely interesting.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgR9NPQAZf-FAfcMtS3RhqWwGhhUaaSDk4Uy82iMc6K3ZekjZKVmENNjsia0qsF83XpqlBYlCO5TMXr9tl_u3dGvf8kofklMCIs63FgmtQqODLmkKgMFO23-Wln3CvEyTo0c_XK7Bo1ros/s1600/1817+Adominal+belt+patent.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1081" data-original-width="736" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgR9NPQAZf-FAfcMtS3RhqWwGhhUaaSDk4Uy82iMc6K3ZekjZKVmENNjsia0qsF83XpqlBYlCO5TMXr9tl_u3dGvf8kofklMCIs63FgmtQqODLmkKgMFO23-Wln3CvEyTo0c_XK7Bo1ros/s400/1817+Adominal+belt+patent.jpg" width="271" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">1817 US patent 1,23,650</td></tr>
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The patent office is actually a great place to find things like men's corsets, with the caveat that the examples shown may or may not have actually existed and worked. This example is from 1817; you can see it includes what is presumably whalebone, and what I suspect are spring sides much the same as Thomas Chew's belt. The wide portion goes to the front, and down, to help tuck in a belly. Sadly, notes are not available, because the website is terrible--the correct URL is likewise hidden, although my Zotero does go to the correct page.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMYsA2BqjXPUN6McpwZ2AtVGQz8XxYKfJtJQwnQub-tRELgXQqjNzFld9wZYJwsX5ijNWsQLRMy0kIDTc2uDY1_JgSLJAVnlbWL7OqhsAD20CbJ_fRZOzLWdIyb3KbVK26a6slqK5ciFg/s1600/1820+King+George+Reproduction.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="225" data-original-width="300" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMYsA2BqjXPUN6McpwZ2AtVGQz8XxYKfJtJQwnQub-tRELgXQqjNzFld9wZYJwsX5ijNWsQLRMy0kIDTc2uDY1_JgSLJAVnlbWL7OqhsAD20CbJ_fRZOzLWdIyb3KbVK26a6slqK5ciFg/s400/1820+King+George+Reproduction.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Reproduction of King George IV. <a href="https://austenonly.com/2011/11/06/george-ivs-clothes-supersize-me/" target="_blank">Link is to image source</a>, but broken.</td></tr>
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And an example for more extreme gut suppression, this is a reproduction of the one worn by King George IV at his coronation in 1821. It was based on a tailor's cardstock pattern, which I have been unable to find. I contacted <a href="https://brightonmuseums.org.uk/" target="_blank">Brighton Museum</a>--which hosted the exhibit the above photo is from--for more information regarding the pattern and making of the reproduction back in April. Naught but crickets.<br />
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And now...from the <i><a href="https://archive.org/details/workwomansguide00workgoog" target="_blank">Workwoman's Guide of 1840</a></i>. The book actually has a brief section on men's stays, saying: <br />
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
<i><span style="font-size: small;">These are worn by gentlemen in the army, hunters, or by those using violent exercise. They are made of strong jean, duck, leather, or webbing. </span></i></blockquote>
The <i>Workwoman's Guide</i> also mentions the use of elastic, presumably for comfort. It also goes on to hint that hunters and coachmen sometimes used them, in the form of a "simple leather belt with three tongues and buckles". I find these to be excellent hints on making, and evidence of them being used for practical reasons, rather than only to tuck in a less than trim waist.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhn1yJrIxvjLyrd464PLokTO-gaUhxCGbXMK4AKsFy3ioH9q2fCkZ7C7ZhObHZDewx9fLjLFbkRsBuQPAUcKvyAVpIp9duheNqMBxIoaar_t769iALuJJvSOsVg56Tnvy3mZEHZyIYkE-Q/s1600/1860+Man%2527s+Truss%252C+Auction.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="344" data-original-width="720" height="190" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhn1yJrIxvjLyrd464PLokTO-gaUhxCGbXMK4AKsFy3ioH9q2fCkZ7C7ZhObHZDewx9fLjLFbkRsBuQPAUcKvyAVpIp9duheNqMBxIoaar_t769iALuJJvSOsVg56Tnvy3mZEHZyIYkE-Q/s400/1860+Man%2527s+Truss%252C+Auction.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6Hk_7haMkd9yRlmdwWiyElMpigRckSbGDzsvGitgQs3Sy681vAIrF2dvLNgepzIjCT20VfJg0fmktM1E7AX2C-Hx2djJ3LDkrw3KjFwc0vUkS8pjTFasKxeb2Si708lCC1yKr7393sTg/s1600/1860+Man%2527s+Truss%252C+Auction%252C+back.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="355" data-original-width="720" height="196" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6Hk_7haMkd9yRlmdwWiyElMpigRckSbGDzsvGitgQs3Sy681vAIrF2dvLNgepzIjCT20VfJg0fmktM1E7AX2C-Hx2djJ3LDkrw3KjFwc0vUkS8pjTFasKxeb2Si708lCC1yKr7393sTg/s400/1860+Man%2527s+Truss%252C+Auction%252C+back.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.augusta-auction.com/component/auctions/?view=lot&id=9954&auction_file_id=20" target="_blank">Augusta Auctions: 1860s Men's Truss. </a>And lady's corset, but that is off topic.</td></tr>
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The above belt of leather is noted in the auction entry as being for Hernia support...I.e. A medical device rather than a fashionable item. I do wish they gave more details about it, but as you can see--relatively narrow, side buckling, and presumably with a small amount of stiffening.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrc7mIyaD_ghPSP-dP_7sKmNGPaUNCgfaI8-QHIu8tYj9tpH5O0hRrc8B71i4MJyc-eHj3siQ_sgdwuXGQBr4OofQ-XPjp8pvNpMnmoEzefJ4LkHnC15DvdGZNFaE5EgKNeymPyODSRJY/s1600/1894+Waist+Binder+LACMA.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="353" data-original-width="560" height="251" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrc7mIyaD_ghPSP-dP_7sKmNGPaUNCgfaI8-QHIu8tYj9tpH5O0hRrc8B71i4MJyc-eHj3siQ_sgdwuXGQBr4OofQ-XPjp8pvNpMnmoEzefJ4LkHnC15DvdGZNFaE5EgKNeymPyODSRJY/s400/1894+Waist+Binder+LACMA.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://collections.lacma.org/node/214418" target="_blank">Waist Binder, 1894. LACMA. Accession #M.2007.211.648</a></td></tr>
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Another example, this time made of silk satin; you can see that this would just give some belly suppression, and not help much with back support beyond the difficulty of slouching with a plate strapped to your belly. The binder only covered the front of the torso and isn't even 6" tall. As with the previous example, this waist binder appears to have a rigid plate of /something/ at the center front, but the museum does not make mention of the material. Or even the existence of whether there is boning in those channels.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXAP1MrTyGMdqaSLs8fLxZ4_lodGZRs4eW2_QIXMLhG56_xYC6l-fh6v68yFo7Tto9Depo-RogfzYpD5fDIGun_QTFNpsHZP7wd9F9raZA0TJThgweE6jk1SYx13r13FuvNagNg-5z5l4/s1600/20th+Men%2527s+Truss+display.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1100" data-original-width="514" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXAP1MrTyGMdqaSLs8fLxZ4_lodGZRs4eW2_QIXMLhG56_xYC6l-fh6v68yFo7Tto9Depo-RogfzYpD5fDIGun_QTFNpsHZP7wd9F9raZA0TJThgweE6jk1SYx13r13FuvNagNg-5z5l4/s400/20th+Men%2527s+Truss+display.jpg" width="186" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.liveauctioneers.com/item/16328272_men-s-truss-store-display" target="_blank">Truss Display. Live Auctioneers.com. </a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiweoO80Efm8ZfB3FOyXqvnBuHcNTogHgMPeiBVFiD7vMhsOGZVAjSe_sXxjf2hyphenhyphen8dQPhwPDVsciW69iRC2Dd0NfuVu_z03SV0jGEvQ7RPy0IHgnwvuY9hhVPW181H7AlP1C47TX4SUCwQ/s1600/Marvel+Health+Belt.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1100" data-original-width="608" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiweoO80Efm8ZfB3FOyXqvnBuHcNTogHgMPeiBVFiD7vMhsOGZVAjSe_sXxjf2hyphenhyphen8dQPhwPDVsciW69iRC2Dd0NfuVu_z03SV0jGEvQ7RPy0IHgnwvuY9hhVPW181H7AlP1C47TX4SUCwQ/s400/Marvel+Health+Belt.jpg" width="220" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.liveauctioneers.com/item/16328280_-the-marvel-health-belt-display" target="_blank">Live Auctioneer.com. Health Belt Display</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Both of the examples above are from the first portion of the 20th century, and advertized as "Health Belts". Which, to some degree they are...but I suspect they were primarily purchased as shape-wear for men to get the desired figure of the day.<br />
<br />
I do find the fan lacing on the second one to be quite interesting; it appears the straps wrap around, narrow in width, and may be that tie near the top front. I could be misinterpreting it, however--without seeing the back of the garment, it is purely speculation. It also appears that the first example may have elastic around the waist?<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinqvffX8KFNOkq1MNZ1GjLOAgoMfImUDuxaXfXDZjAB_23eJnOK5tEOL5gzQ0V_MqL9vO_2ST1-a7yklRgHSyOfeeuvPkb5p0ksqQ-VTL1-sBJeBhZhI7S5NKF8x3D-RgLWPvpmarOulY/s1600/20th+cen+Herrenkorsett.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="621" data-original-width="800" height="310" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinqvffX8KFNOkq1MNZ1GjLOAgoMfImUDuxaXfXDZjAB_23eJnOK5tEOL5gzQ0V_MqL9vO_2ST1-a7yklRgHSyOfeeuvPkb5p0ksqQ-VTL1-sBJeBhZhI7S5NKF8x3D-RgLWPvpmarOulY/s400/20th+cen+Herrenkorsett.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://objektkatalog.gnm.de/objekt/T6973" target="_blank">Germanischen National Museum. Inventory #T6973<span class="notranslate" style="background-color: #e6ecf9;"><span class="entry"></span></span></a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
And my penultimate example of the belt-ish style, this one of linen herringbone (yum!) and labeled as being from the first half of the 20th century. It is more marginal in regards to the style--it comes out at being 11.6 inches tall. Which means that in all likelihood it would cover much of the ribs and perhaps the hips as well, depending on torso length. Assuming the museum has it displayed the correct way up, that is--I suspect they do, but there is evidence from around the same time (see the French patent in the below section) for a male corset which goes from the bottom of the ribs down below the hips.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAhFhp6E1b8lBKmw7oh6MAY-kRKV9WPxPHc7wgEb3YZoIsJtBTEUk3PS4_Eyfbv8xQ6_80GqH5NVU886ykatJWSakN2pt0jKIsv0Ft-nFAPaJLDQWInxks4p2IQHCLXzK4GL3zDNXzgAo/s1600/1930+Man%2527s+Liberty+Health+Belt.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="364" data-original-width="400" height="363" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAhFhp6E1b8lBKmw7oh6MAY-kRKV9WPxPHc7wgEb3YZoIsJtBTEUk3PS4_Eyfbv8xQ6_80GqH5NVU886ykatJWSakN2pt0jKIsv0Ft-nFAPaJLDQWInxks4p2IQHCLXzK4GL3zDNXzgAo/s400/1930+Man%2527s+Liberty+Health+Belt.png" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://imageleicestershire.org.uk/view-item?i=7648&WINID=1568255924453#.XXmvuXt7nDd" target="_blank">Liberty Health Belt, 1930s. </a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Another particularly sturdy appearing version in cotton drill and with elastic side panels. The notes say that this version is extra deep--four inches taller than the standard model.<br />
<br />
<h4>
Full Torso Stays:</h4>
I am defining this category as the examples of men's shapewear which are tall enough to cover the wearer roughly from hip level to the underarm. Having the full length of the torso covered would provide as much support and shaping as is possible.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYseAb6BZWTH70VsYwsGvWTk_DfO0k0b7yGvfnigUSB-StITwUKy2U6igrMe7WszEikJuEvaaxBBKF-qQmC3BiXxlLp1g1FyW1ibdN0czM_fzUcOGWVTQYz_SZhGUAhCIbKrOJoQw7rp8/s1600/1772+Protecting+Macaroni.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="767" data-original-width="564" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYseAb6BZWTH70VsYwsGvWTk_DfO0k0b7yGvfnigUSB-StITwUKy2U6igrMe7WszEikJuEvaaxBBKF-qQmC3BiXxlLp1g1FyW1ibdN0czM_fzUcOGWVTQYz_SZhGUAhCIbKrOJoQw7rp8/s400/1772+Protecting+Macaroni.jpg" width="293" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.britishmuseum.org/research/collection_online/collection_object_details/collection_image_gallery.aspx?assetId=161564&objectId=1637713&partId=1" target="_blank">British Museum. Accession #1915,0313.184 </a></td></tr>
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One of the earliest images I have found of a man wearing a set of stays is this one from 1772. While this is likely a caricature, it isn't as exaggerated as many of the later Macaroni images I have found and which are so prominently featured in other articles on the topic of men's corseting (hence my writing this article).<br />
<br />
From the plate, it looks as though the construction is much the same as <a href="https://collections.mfa.org/objects/119722" target="_blank">women's stays of the same time</a> or slightly earlier, with densely packed boning, if without any sign of attempted exaggeration of the hip, nor tabs at the bottom. He looks a bit uncomfortable, really.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgb7-vuJ3i0SvRbk2D4Cnwd-vLf9RU5wBidi04rJeWm-dswoY0gfCrySRsbRREgwg9ZPoOBUFimNYtBwW-KQ8CLxdT280p0mrqJvlInSK5TsY4cSDrgp5q_Gzsi9Lhn5fICGumVPZTwf8/s1600/19th+Cen+Corset+Front.++MET..JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1540" data-original-width="868" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgb7-vuJ3i0SvRbk2D4Cnwd-vLf9RU5wBidi04rJeWm-dswoY0gfCrySRsbRREgwg9ZPoOBUFimNYtBwW-KQ8CLxdT280p0mrqJvlInSK5TsY4cSDrgp5q_Gzsi9Lhn5fICGumVPZTwf8/s400/19th+Cen+Corset+Front.++MET..JPG" width="225" /></a></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhN0LTyY0b_QjFRPYrmlQAYqvzGkPRk4Xu14vL-zRVtI58No_hP5cxaK0NudTjEWNq_2Gb5j0hb18yl-iM2HumyeCrl3LSgqmt1aChlHDUkVu2LUAgIOb857WobnsinzduepHPZwbIoqVE/s1600/19th+Cen+Corset+Back.++MET.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1012" data-original-width="1296" height="311" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhN0LTyY0b_QjFRPYrmlQAYqvzGkPRk4Xu14vL-zRVtI58No_hP5cxaK0NudTjEWNq_2Gb5j0hb18yl-iM2HumyeCrl3LSgqmt1aChlHDUkVu2LUAgIOb857WobnsinzduepHPZwbIoqVE/s400/19th+Cen+Corset+Back.++MET.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/162898" target="_blank">Early 19th Cen Corset. MET. Accession #<span class="artwork__tombstone--value">2011.105</span></a></td></tr>
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A lovely example of an early 19th century set of men's stays, with not much information being provided by the museum website. Because I found this example more and more interesting as I looked closer, I eventually sent the museum an inquiry...and received a reply within a few days. I will only address the most basic features here, since I intend to publish a blog post specifically on this garment and will go into depth there.<br />
<br />
While the museum webpage says the garment is cotton, I believe it is more likely linen. The construction is extremely simple, and it is apparently made of only two layers of fabric, with no boning. The verticals seams you see in the front are darts and a pleat. I'm quite curious as to how well this would work, and may actually recreate it (in my sizing, of course).<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSGYU7zSnr09kq94D4zuhY92HuJoMx0fRAcdYTZsLRswumMOPscmdSD_nvEl6gTRGdSi8J1qw13mXRP8TU-Bs2WGqypC3bEI0Fxu6ufe2YHy4Z-jm_hk8at-EoHiuzWfU1G0UtERuPyU8/s1600/Caricature+Dandies+Dressing.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="510" data-original-width="640" height="317" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSGYU7zSnr09kq94D4zuhY92HuJoMx0fRAcdYTZsLRswumMOPscmdSD_nvEl6gTRGdSi8J1qw13mXRP8TU-Bs2WGqypC3bEI0Fxu6ufe2YHy4Z-jm_hk8at-EoHiuzWfU1G0UtERuPyU8/s400/Caricature+Dandies+Dressing.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dandies Dressing<br />
<a href="https://www.loc.gov/pictures/item/95505588/" target="_blank">Library of Congress. Call #PC 1 - 13062</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
And because the article wouldn't be complete without one, I present a caricature from 1818. From here on, I don't see many examples of full length men's corsets or stays until the end of the century. By no means does that mean they didn't exist--I just haven't found them at this point beyond one or two caricatures from mid-century, such as the one below.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgA6QXr7hI0x9x5VaGsDI2rSXHUA2DoRi8bokD7Cb9GjACH7ozkP1dDYabqudWg5NwMvg7oiC3HO_78hG3GpAKvQ4WfwWWvamZMlH0-M9q7AD_9D00cPnzIBlw4HkKjv9OMl39_rSSpZH8/s1600/Bibliotheque+Municipale+de+Lyon+1852.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1334" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgA6QXr7hI0x9x5VaGsDI2rSXHUA2DoRi8bokD7Cb9GjACH7ozkP1dDYabqudWg5NwMvg7oiC3HO_78hG3GpAKvQ4WfwWWvamZMlH0-M9q7AD_9D00cPnzIBlw4HkKjv9OMl39_rSSpZH8/s400/Bibliotheque+Municipale+de+Lyon+1852.jpg" width="332" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://collections.bm-lyon.fr/DOC0014bf13df26fe7b?&query%5B%5D=category_s:%22news%22&withinQuery=lyonnaises&hitStart=129&sortDesc=date&hitTotal=133&hitPageSize=12" target="_blank">Bibliotheque Municipale de Lyon. 1852</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
This particular example should be noted as being suspect as to whether he is wearing a corset specifically for men and not a woman's, due to the bottom point and the curves of the front and top edge; men's corsets are typically more or less straight there. The caption says "When a man tries on a corset"; this could be for curiosity (or fetish), the mildly sadistic amusement of his wife, or menswear. It is hard to tell, really.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipzY_xtZW1v2dVG56MuslVKDMQFuPhJC_ns57f3tsvB4PkUaynfSql_4acMmdTYrRfye2ett0527BCtJbvfLzXT8qz4mMl78FT7UX98Rc5nvsxADbPjX6mSLbaqRbCKXcOAK6Je6EredY/s1600/1890+corset-mens-daily-northwestern-10-may-1890.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="448" data-original-width="353" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipzY_xtZW1v2dVG56MuslVKDMQFuPhJC_ns57f3tsvB4PkUaynfSql_4acMmdTYrRfye2ett0527BCtJbvfLzXT8qz4mMl78FT7UX98Rc5nvsxADbPjX6mSLbaqRbCKXcOAK6Je6EredY/s320/1890+corset-mens-daily-northwestern-10-may-1890.jpg" width="252" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://yesteryearsnews.wordpress.com/2011/06/22/" target="_blank">Daily Northwestern, 5/10/1890</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The above is a newspaper sketch from 1890, in the <i>Daily Northwestern. </i>It's odd for a couple of reasons, but mostly how wide the lacing is in the back. The inclusion of darts is likewise interesting, but it /is/ just a newspaper sketch, and accuracy should not be expected.<br />
<br />
However, on <a href="https://yesteryearsnews.wordpress.com/2011/06/22/" target="_blank">the same webpage</a> and under this image is a clipping from <i>The Fitchburg Sentinel</i> dating to 1874, which is /quite/ interesting.<br />
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
<div style="text-align: center;">
<b>Corsets for Men.</b></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
"The corset is becoming more and more a necessity of the ultra-fashionable man’s toilet, says a New York paper. The latest style of corsets for men look more than anything else like a large-sized belt curved for the hips, and are about ten inches wide. They are made of the same material as a woman’s corset...."</div>
</blockquote>
Just another hint that the narrower style of "health belt" stays were more common. <br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifQUkVBKgA8_WMJadyohH5qgYXp07b0TBzAs2eklG3FTGv-FX9bboM4j5fbppm0eHCYUSSJdq07b25LSQRCMHs1VnVt6EVHR_KB2dIFdSM0WHTGf7Q0Y2U1GZ8YT57nEWAHQRztcATgFU/s1600/1896+Madam+Dowding%2527s+Corsets.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="755" data-original-width="495" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifQUkVBKgA8_WMJadyohH5qgYXp07b0TBzAs2eklG3FTGv-FX9bboM4j5fbppm0eHCYUSSJdq07b25LSQRCMHs1VnVt6EVHR_KB2dIFdSM0WHTGf7Q0Y2U1GZ8YT57nEWAHQRztcATgFU/s400/1896+Madam+Dowding%2527s+Corsets.jpg" width="261" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://archive.org/details/krl00013212/page/n6" target="_blank">Madam Dowding's Corsets, 1896</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
And for a more outré example...this Madam Dowding advertisement showing a couple of gentlemen in wasp-waisted corsets. Given that this doesn't remotely match the usual silhouette of the 1890s...I suspect that they are best categorized as "fetish wear" and are outside the norm. The three in the bottom right corner appear to be more standard "belt-style" stays, at least. A quick bit of research brings up mention of Madam Dowding's company in <i><a href="https://books.google.com/books/about/Fashion_and_Fetishism.html?id=LwE_DQAAQBAJ&printsec=frontcover&source=kp_read_button#v=onepage&q&f=false" target="_blank">Fashion and Fetishism: Corsets, Tight-Lacing & Other Forms of Body-Sculpture </a></i><a href="https://books.google.com/books/about/Fashion_and_Fetishism.html?id=LwE_DQAAQBAJ&printsec=frontcover&source=kp_read_button#v=onepage&q&f=false" target="_blank"><u>(David Kunzle</u>, 2004)</a>, which would seem to solidify it not being something the average dandy would wear. I am not going to dig deeper into /that/ since it is outside my topic for this article, and frankly, not of interest to me.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMZKbzCAe_Y2bDTmYLHZbxKdLaehRNlaRLKcStIfuouByPR73-f3gV7Obbee25knpPiiCcAWXslyJoi5IHYnis6gnlbWKZd797LaxhIbVH77dM2eBv8q5B3pyPqpOeJ0csmCoFpHK5sDQ/s1600/1911+French.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="599" data-original-width="343" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMZKbzCAe_Y2bDTmYLHZbxKdLaehRNlaRLKcStIfuouByPR73-f3gV7Obbee25knpPiiCcAWXslyJoi5IHYnis6gnlbWKZd797LaxhIbVH77dM2eBv8q5B3pyPqpOeJ0csmCoFpHK5sDQ/s400/1911+French.gif" width="227" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:RFpatent.gif" target="_blank">French patent No. 12380</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Above is one of the few "long-line" male corsets I have noted, and apparently with industrial grade garters to boot...this doesn't look practical to me, but I could be wrong. I have seen a few advertisements from later (this is an 1911 patent), which have similarly low designs but without the "leg corset garters". After all...menswear in this period was not particularly trying to draw attention to the hip, and smoothing the line from gut to hip would help the eye be drawn to where it was desired.<br />
<br />
<h4>
Posture Improvers: </h4>
These differ from the other styles as being notably higher in the back than in the front, and typically with some kind of straps to pull your shoulders back. They normally had some waist suppression going on, but that doesn't appear to have been the primary goal of the garment in all cases.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRfhVkiL3Mrt1b7QTHyKEPfOuJfWS04E2DgDgn8lPY4Z0z3CZENFJPVV5gyP36iNMoOL4xo4rYNhlQk_xgi348toV79kWQIkLy97aNAvcoacHY0nYR334BhB6c_OcMq04SqhZQDD1wwak/s1600/1890+Shoulder+Brace+Corset.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="809" data-original-width="527" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRfhVkiL3Mrt1b7QTHyKEPfOuJfWS04E2DgDgn8lPY4Z0z3CZENFJPVV5gyP36iNMoOL4xo4rYNhlQk_xgi348toV79kWQIkLy97aNAvcoacHY0nYR334BhB6c_OcMq04SqhZQDD1wwak/s400/1890+Shoulder+Brace+Corset.gif" width="260" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://haabet.dk/patent/433095/index.html" target="_blank">Shoulder Brace Corset, Patent #433,095</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The above patent shows three separate bracing corsets--the primary one is for ladies, but Fig. 2 shows a variation for men and boys with the wide fronted one presumably for the male gut. Definitely an interesting design, and one which could be beneficial in this age of sitting at computers way too much.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfuZSHEjOmj5HXjaGXATVPosiIz_GEFbTB-Mx7m0-Ri7AxuTtcdH1lOC7gkaxCljifpnmdGkd1TVx_bGWhknkUJbqAEa65TldlzwNHSMSfMUWz-dNF-CNOItI8A_3YN01lfHufz7eLiwU/s1600/1893+Invicorator_belt.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="451" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfuZSHEjOmj5HXjaGXATVPosiIz_GEFbTB-Mx7m0-Ri7AxuTtcdH1lOC7gkaxCljifpnmdGkd1TVx_bGWhknkUJbqAEa65TldlzwNHSMSfMUWz-dNF-CNOItI8A_3YN01lfHufz7eLiwU/s400/1893+Invicorator_belt.png" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Invicorator_belt.png" target="_blank">Reast's Patent Invicorator Belt, 1893</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The Invicorator Belt appears to be quite similar to the above patent, although an apparently simpler design and with a bit more suppression to the waist.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaHonDU2kP0d5znoRM5QCSqfNlcGUo7_G5kaO550PP_I0TnJTcy3p5ksIr9hCNN5Oc-Ce8pzKAPbVMbqeBQXVaIKK2535Fk0gUaWWWBYaj0W_qQZEzhS43CT8uhyZn0VjsEbi8sSG8o-8/s1600/Nulife+Posturite%252C+1940s..jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1092" data-original-width="1280" height="341" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaHonDU2kP0d5znoRM5QCSqfNlcGUo7_G5kaO550PP_I0TnJTcy3p5ksIr9hCNN5Oc-Ce8pzKAPbVMbqeBQXVaIKK2535Fk0gUaWWWBYaj0W_qQZEzhS43CT8uhyZn0VjsEbi8sSG8o-8/s400/Nulife+Posturite%252C+1940s..jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://rosscountyhistoricalsociety.tumblr.com/post/167016731336/nulife-posturite-brace-1941-the-brace-promised" target="_blank">Nulife Posturite Brace</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
And an extant posture improver, dating from 1941! I have seen an example of the same brand and model which was reputedly from 1916, but I since couldn't cite it--the Pinterest link was to EBay--it couldn't get included. :/<br />
<br />
<h4>
Oddballs:</h4>
The last category is for a few oddballs which are not true stays or corsets, but are still shape-wear.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh61KmrLFn0EQwgI4W41853PURIv7RQznEmd8vEd29XZALlBtFGJczWt61zzJSbwCmtLHqg1Pm2I5B6hc5G7vHwtrByNEqoYgjAxDBWQ5pw7YwJRDZjz6nEBc9xFKj1CDy404Vk4wL7XeQ/s1600/1870-1900+Underwear.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="345" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh61KmrLFn0EQwgI4W41853PURIv7RQznEmd8vEd29XZALlBtFGJczWt61zzJSbwCmtLHqg1Pm2I5B6hc5G7vHwtrByNEqoYgjAxDBWQ5pw7YwJRDZjz6nEBc9xFKj1CDy404Vk4wL7XeQ/s400/1870-1900+Underwear.jpg" width="230" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/79141" target="_blank">Underwear, The MET. Accession #<span class="artwork__tombstone--value">1996.233</span></a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
A curiosity from the last quarter of the 19th century...silk underwear with integrated boning and lacing in the rear. Quite interesting. They are also noted as having a split crotch--probably for the best, given all those buttons.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFEUIi7dtA-0LJV2tDWuO8oU4ynzwcsnOb4MDfVTj1I-gyMQsaTbaZDziDJnNYWVc598wevDNAtvuzGu9cwvpNKS94tJ_1J1oic-vK2n0Dsk1daEPocKotXbi0Nd8YZ7VWagR8tbMHIb8/s1600/1920+Girdling+Leggings.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1100" data-original-width="720" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFEUIi7dtA-0LJV2tDWuO8oU4ynzwcsnOb4MDfVTj1I-gyMQsaTbaZDziDJnNYWVc598wevDNAtvuzGu9cwvpNKS94tJ_1J1oic-vK2n0Dsk1daEPocKotXbi0Nd8YZ7VWagR8tbMHIb8/s400/1920+Girdling+Leggings.jpg" width="261" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.augusta-auction.com/list-of-upcoming-sales?view=lot&id=17699&auction_file_id=46" target="_blank">Augusta Auctions. 1920s</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Another pair, almost identical in design, from the 1920s. <br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhycwhjfAHOobsvs5btv5FfC5fhOanyHfPOchFVKrdH56N85jwso9j6xANPNa1CeSnzQBBghEiZrL8sygVJRfMtfAaqaUOer14lKX2q5BjIzoo6k81FYsSIxlKw5xLxRXL93_JoCCUiXU4/s1600/Morning+Vest%252C+MET.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="971" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhycwhjfAHOobsvs5btv5FfC5fhOanyHfPOchFVKrdH56N85jwso9j6xANPNa1CeSnzQBBghEiZrL8sygVJRfMtfAaqaUOer14lKX2q5BjIzoo6k81FYsSIxlKw5xLxRXL93_JoCCUiXU4/s400/Morning+Vest%252C+MET.jpg" width="322" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/157605" target="_blank">Morning Vest, The MET. Accession #<span class="artwork__tombstone--value">2009.300.2744a, b</span></a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Obviously, this is not true shapewear...it's a vest or waistcoat from the 1850s. However--and this is purely my theory--with the shape of the armscyes and the laced boning at the back, I believe it would have given some of the same effects of a garment more dedicated to body shaping...a slight narrowing of the waist, but mostly a touch of back support and forcing your shoulders back.<br />
<br />
<br />
<h4>
Conclusion:</h4>
All in all, you can see that the majority of examples of male corsets, stays, girdles, health belts, posture improvers...were not all that extreme and were the historical version of Spanx on one side, and modern health or weightlifting belts on the other. Which really shouldn't be surprising given that the more common women's corset/stay. were the same--to help give the desired silhouette of the period. I do not believe they were ever as common in dress as women's stays/corsets, as the male version wasn't necessary for bust or garment waistband support (obviously), but only help your figure and possibly be necessary for back support. One of the things which should be remembered is that...people don't really change, on the whole. There have always been people who wanted to be ultra-fashionable whether within or beyond their means, and there have always been fashion extremists who--since they're particularly visible in records--can skew the information which we find when looking at the past.<br />
<br />
One final note: I would encourage re-enactors to not apply the term "Corsets" to historical men's shapewear; while it does appear to be used historically on occasion, the usage of the terms "health belt" or girdle for the narrow varieties, stays for the full torso ones, and posture improvers for that variation will help separate our writings from the modern corsets when future generations of searchers try to find information. Or do apply it and work towards removing the slight stigma of men wearing corsets. Either way works, really.<br />
<br />
Hopefully this article and overview giving a historical look at men's shape-wear was of help and interest! If you have comments...well, the comment section is below.<br />
<br />
More examples of men's girdles and stays--because I didn't remotely use all of the ones I gathered--can be found in my Pinterest board, <a href="https://www.pinterest.com/branmacfinnchad/gentlemens-stays-underpadding/" target="_blank">Gentleman's Stays</a>.<br />
<br />
<br />
<h4>
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<span class="Z3988" title="url_ver=Z39.88-2004&ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fzotero.org%3A2&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Adc&rft.type=webpage&rft.title=Image%20gallery%3A%20The%20Protecting%20Macaroni%20%2F%20Macaronies%2C%20Characters%2C%20Caricatures%20%26c%20by%20MDarly.%20%5B1772%5D%20(Vol.4)&rft.description=.&rft.identifier=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.britishmuseum.org%2Fresearch%2Fcollection_online%2Fcollection_object_details%2Fcollection_image_gallery.aspx%3FassetId%3D161564%26objectId%3D1637713%26partId%3D1&rft.language=en-GB"></span> <br />
<div class="csl-entry" style="margin-bottom: 1em;">
Kunzle, David, <i>Fashion and Fetishism: Corsets, Tight-Lacing & Other Forms of Body-Sculpture</i> (The History Press, 2006) [accessed 11 September 2019 through Google Books]</div>
<span class="Z3988" title="url_ver=Z39.88-2004&ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fzotero.org%3A2&rft_id=urn%3Aisbn%3A978-0-7524-9545-3&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=book&rft.btitle=Fashion%20and%20Fetishism%3A%20Corsets%2C%20Tight-Lacing%20%26%20Other%20Forms%20of%20Body-Sculpture&rft.publisher=The%20History%20Press&rft.aufirst=David&rft.aulast=Kunzle&rft.au=David%20Kunzle&rft.date=2006-08-24&rft.tpages=581&rft.isbn=978-0-7524-9545-3&rft.language=en"></span> <br />
<div class="csl-entry" style="margin-bottom: 1em;">
‘Lacing a Dandy: 1819-1846, Thomas Tegg’, <i>Museum of London Prints</i> <<a href="http://www.museumoflondonprints.com/image/68263/thomas-tegg-lacing-a-dandy-1819-1846" target="_blank">http://www.museumoflondonprints.com/image/68263/thomas-tegg-lacing-a-dandy-1819-1846</a>> [accessed 20 April 2019]</div>
<span class="Z3988" title="url_ver=Z39.88-2004&ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fzotero.org%3A2&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Adc&rft.type=webpage&rft.title=Lacing%20a%20Dandy%3A%201819-1846%2C%20Thomas%20Tegg&rft.description=Lacing%20a%20Dandy%3A%201819-1846%20by%20Thomas%20Tegg.%20Museum%20quality%20art%20prints%20with%20a%20selection%20of%20frame%20and%20size%20options%2C%20and%20canvases.%20Museum%20of%20London&rft.identifier=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.museumoflondonprints.com%2Fimage%2F68263%2Fthomas-tegg-lacing-a-dandy-1819-1846&rft.language=en"></span> <br />
<div class="csl-entry" style="margin-bottom: 1em;">
‘LADY’S CORSET, c. 1890 & MAN’S TRUSS, 1855-1865, Augusta Auctions’ <<a href="https://www.augusta-auction.com/component/auctions/?view=lot&id=9954&auction_file_id=20" target="_blank">https://www.augusta-auction.com/component/auctions/?view=lot&id=9954&auction_file_id=20</a>> [accessed 20 April 2019]</div>
<span class="Z3988" title="url_ver=Z39.88-2004&ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fzotero.org%3A2&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Adc&rft.type=webpage&rft.title=LADY'S%20CORSET%2C%20c.%201890%20%26%20MAN'S%20TRUSS%2C%201855-1865%2C%20Augusta%20Auctions&rft.identifier=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.augusta-auction.com%2Fcomponent%2Fauctions%2F%3Fview%3Dlot%26id%3D9954%26auction_file_id%3D20"></span> <br />
<div class="csl-entry" style="margin-bottom: 1em;">
<i>Madame Dowding’s Corsets</i> ([S.l.] : [s.n.], 1896) <<a href="http://archive.org/details/krl00013212" target="_blank">http://archive.org/details/krl00013212</a>> [accessed 20 April 2019]</div>
<span class="Z3988" title="url_ver=Z39.88-2004&ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fzotero.org%3A2&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Abook&rft.genre=book&rft.btitle=Madame%20Dowding's%20corsets&rft.publisher=%5BS.l.%5D%20%3A%20%5Bs.n.%5D&rft.au=undefined&rft.date=1896&rft.tpages=107&rft.language=eng"></span> <br />
<div class="csl-entry" style="margin-bottom: 1em;">
‘Man’s Liberty Health Belt, 1930’, <i>Image Leicestershire</i> <<a href="https://imageleicestershire.org.uk/view-item?i=7648" target="_blank">https://imageleicestershire.org.uk/view-item?i=7648</a>> [accessed 20 April 2019]</div>
<span class="Z3988" title="url_ver=Z39.88-2004&ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fzotero.org%3A2&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Adc&rft.type=webpage&rft.title=Man's%20Liberty%20Health%20Belt%2C%201930&rft.description=Man's%20Liberty%20Health%20Belt%20of%201930.%20It%20features%20the%20same%20lacing%20principle%20as%20a%20Jenyns%20corset%2C%20which%20was%20used%20by%20both%20men%20and%20women%20to%20help%20support%20the%20back%20and%20control%20the%20overweight%20figure.%20%0A%0ASymington%20not%20only%20produced%20support%20garments%20for%20women.%20This%20man's%20Liberty%20Health%20Belt%20features%20the%20same%20lacing%20principle%20as%20a%20Jenyns%20corset%2C%20which%20was%20used%20by%20both%20men%20and%20women%20to%20help%20support%20the%20back%20and%20control%20the%20overweight%20figure.%20The%20Health%20Belt%20was%20marketed%20directly%20to%20men%20through%20the%20nationally%20known%20hunting%20tailor%20Frank%20Hall%2C%20who%20was%20also%20based%20in%20Market%20Harborough.%0A%0AThe%20belt%20is%20made%20from%20cotton%20drill%2C%20has%20strong%20knitted%20elastic%20side%20panels%20and%20features%20extra%20strong%20hooks%20and%20eyes%20for%20fastening.%20It%20is%20an%20extra%20deep%20version%20of%20the%20model%2C%20with%20an%20additional%2010%20cm%20(4%20inches)%20added%20to%20the%20depth.%0A%0AWith%20the%20outbreak%20of%20World%20War%20Two%20in%201939%2C%20production%20at%20the%20Symington%20factory%20was%20scaled%20down.%20This%20particular%20line%20was%20removed%20from%20production%20and%20never%20re-introduced.&rft.identifier=https%3A%2F%2Fimageleicestershire.org.uk%2Fview-item%3Fi%3D7648&rft.language=en"></span> <br />
<div class="csl-entry" style="margin-bottom: 1em;">
‘Men’s Truss Store Display on LiveAuctioneers’, <i>LiveAuctioneers</i> <<a href="https://www.liveauctioneers.com/item/16328272_men-s-truss-store-display" target="_blank">https://www.liveauctioneers.com/item/16328272_men-s-truss-store-display</a>> [accessed 20 April 2019]</div>
<span class="Z3988" title="url_ver=Z39.88-2004&ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fzotero.org%3A2&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Adc&rft.type=webpage&rft.title=Men's%20Truss%20Store%20Display%20on%20LiveAuctioneers&rft.description=Men's%20Truss%20Store%20Display.%2050%20Cent%20price%20label%20with%20wood%20base.%20Excellent%20condition.%209%20X%2017%201%2F2%20inches.&rft.identifier=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.liveauctioneers.com%2Fitem%2F16328272_men-s-truss-store-display&rft.language=en"></span> <br />
<div class="csl-entry" style="margin-bottom: 1em;">
‘Morning Vest | American | The Met’, <i>The Metropolitan Museum of Art, i.e. The Met Museum</i> <<a href="https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/157605" target="_blank">https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/157605</a>> [accessed 20 April 2019]</div>
<span class="Z3988" title="url_ver=Z39.88-2004&ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fzotero.org%3A2&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Adc&rft.type=webpage&rft.title=Morning%20vest%20%7C%20American%20%7C%20The%20Met&rft.identifier=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.metmuseum.org%2Fart%2Fcollection%2Fsearch%2F157605&rft.language=en"></span> <br />
<div class="csl-entry" style="margin-bottom: 1em;">
‘Nulife Posturite Brace, 1941’, <i>Welcome to the Ross County Historical Society</i> <<a href="https://rosscountyhistoricalsociety.tumblr.com/post/167016731336/nulife-posturite-brace-1941-the-brace-promised" target="_blank">https://rosscountyhistoricalsociety.tumblr.com/post/167016731336/nulife-posturite-brace-1941-the-brace-promised</a>> [accessed 11 September 2019]</div>
<span class="Z3988" title="url_ver=Z39.88-2004&ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fzotero.org%3A2&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Adc&rft.type=webpage&rft.title=Nulife%20Posturite%20brace%2C%201941&rft.description=Nulife%20Posturite%20brace%2C%201941.%20The%20brace%20promised%20excellent%20health%20through%20a%20corrected%20posture.%20The%20lack%20of%20wear%20on%20the%20garment%20indicates%20the%20owner%20wasn%E2%80%99t%20particularly%20impressed%20with%20the%20results.&rft.identifier=https%3A%2F%2Frosscountyhistoricalsociety.tumblr.com%2Fpost%2F167016731336%2Fnulife-posturite-brace-1941-the-brace-promised"></span> <span class="Z3988" title="url_ver=Z39.88-2004&ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fzotero.org%3A2&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Adc&rft.type=note"></span> <br />
<div class="csl-entry" style="margin-bottom: 1em;">
‘Shoulder-Brace Corset.’ <<a href="http://haabet.dk/patent/433095/index.html" target="_blank">http://haabet.dk/patent/433095/index.html</a>> [accessed 20 April 2019]</div>
<span class="Z3988" title="url_ver=Z39.88-2004&ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fzotero.org%3A2&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Adc&rft.type=webpage&rft.title=Shoulder-brace%20Corset.&rft.identifier=http%3A%2F%2Fhaabet.dk%2Fpatent%2F433095%2Findex.html"></span> <br />
<div class="csl-entry" style="margin-bottom: 1em;">
‘Suck It in! Purser Thomas Chew’s Corset - USS Constitution Museum’ <<a href="https://ussconstitutionmuseum.org/2013/07/09/suck-it-in-purser-thomas-chews-corse/" target="_blank">https://ussconstitutionmuseum.org/2013/07/09/suck-it-in-purser-thomas-chews-corse/</a>> [accessed 20 April 2019]</div>
<span class="Z3988" title="url_ver=Z39.88-2004&ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fzotero.org%3A2&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Adc&rft.type=webpage&rft.title=Suck%20it%20in!%20Purser%20Thomas%20Chew%E2%80%99s%20Corset%20-%20USS%20Constitution%20Museum&rft.identifier=https%3A%2F%2Fussconstitutionmuseum.org%2F2013%2F07%2F09%2Fsuck-it-in-purser-thomas-chews-corse%2F"></span> <br />
<div class="csl-entry" style="margin-bottom: 1em;">
‘“The Marvel” Health Belt Display on LiveAuctioneers’, <i>LiveAuctioneers</i> <<a href="https://www.liveauctioneers.com/item/16328280_-the-marvel-health-belt-display" target="_blank">https://www.liveauctioneers.com/item/16328280_-the-marvel-health-belt-display</a>> [accessed 20 April 2019]</div>
<span class="Z3988" title="url_ver=Z39.88-2004&ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fzotero.org%3A2&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Adc&rft.type=webpage&rft.title=%22The%20Marvel%22%20Health%20Belt%20Display%20on%20LiveAuctioneers&rft.description=The%20Marvel%20Health%20Belt%20Display.%20Chas.%20Quenzer.%20Inc.%20New%20York.%20Very%20good%20original%20condition.%2013%20X%2026%20X%2016%20inches.&rft.identifier=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.liveauctioneers.com%2Fitem%2F16328280_-the-marvel-health-belt-display&rft.language=en"></span> <br />
<div class="csl-entry" style="margin-bottom: 1em;">
‘Underwear | American or European | The Met’, <i>The Metropolitan Museum of Art, i.e. The Met Museum</i> <<a href="https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/79141" target="_blank">https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/79141</a>> [accessed 20 April 2019]</div>
<span class="Z3988" title="url_ver=Z39.88-2004&ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fzotero.org%3A2&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Adc&rft.type=webpage&rft.title=Underwear%20%7C%20American%20or%20European%20%7C%20The%20Met&rft.identifier=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.metmuseum.org%2Fart%2Fcollection%2Fsearch%2F79141&rft.language=en"></span> <br />
<div class="csl-entry" style="margin-bottom: 1em;">
Unknown, ‘English: A Invicorator Corset Belt for Men.’, 1893 <<a href="https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Invicorator_belt.png">https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Invicorator_belt.png</a>> [accessed 20 April 2019]</div>
<span class="Z3988" title="url_ver=Z39.88-2004&ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fzotero.org%3A2&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Adc&rft.type=webpage&rft.title=English%3A%20a%20invicorator%20corset%20belt%20for%20men.&rft.rights=Public%20domain&rft.identifier=https%3A%2F%2Fcommons.wikimedia.org%2Fwiki%2FFile%3AInvicorator_belt.png&rft.au=undefined&rft.date=1893"></span> <br />
<div class="csl-entry" style="margin-bottom: 1em;">
‘Waist Binder | LACMA Collections’ <<a href="https://collections.lacma.org/node/214418" target="_blank">https://collections.lacma.org/node/214418</a>> [accessed 20 April 2019]</div>
<span class="Z3988" title="url_ver=Z39.88-2004&ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fzotero.org%3A2&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Adc&rft.type=webpage&rft.title=Waist%20Binder%20%7C%20LACMA%20Collections&rft.identifier=https%3A%2F%2Fcollections.lacma.org%2Fnode%2F214418"></span> <br />
<div class="csl-entry">
Workwoman, <i>The Workwoman’s Guide, Containing Instructions in Cutting out and Completing Articles of Wearing ...</i>, 1840 <<a href="http://archive.org/details/workwomansguide00workgoog" target="_blank">http://archive.org/details/workwomansguide00workgoog</a>> [accessed 20 April 2019]</div>
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Some special thanks to my long suffering proofreader Twobears, for
working his way through this article. Hopefully he wasn't too bored. <br />
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<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;">© John Frey, 2019. The Author of this work retains full copyright for this material. Permission is granted to make and distribute verbatim copies of this document for non-commercial private research or educational purposes provided the copyright notice and this permission notice are preserved on all copies</span></div>
</div>
Brann mac Finnchadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04614813862245766203noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2468874881802139741.post-7743245433833074272019-09-10T01:00:00.000-08:002019-09-10T01:00:13.047-08:00I knitted a...a......Well, I scalped a muppet. And it was glorious...the prickly thing put up a fight, but in the end I was triumphant!<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjba67bd9_P54n8tgTmKbCyzLRwxilIk-OTALvTfmyYiSAifEqjlmA4Ef7Vu7_NEOo8vVHJh2oCLitHyqxqPxWgOYowK3yaBuzhIo0kr5z3E1q7M3MLyNar9hFVOE0KN46jtqAG9YpjheE/s1600/69647343_2207147199414984_6571781424418914304_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="720" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjba67bd9_P54n8tgTmKbCyzLRwxilIk-OTALvTfmyYiSAifEqjlmA4Ef7Vu7_NEOo8vVHJh2oCLitHyqxqPxWgOYowK3yaBuzhIo0kr5z3E1q7M3MLyNar9hFVOE0KN46jtqAG9YpjheE/s640/69647343_2207147199414984_6571781424418914304_n.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The one I made for myself, on it's debut expedition for mushrooms.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
About a year or so ago I picked up knitting as something to work on during down time at my day job. I started with a couple of scarfs--the first 4th Doctor inspired Ravenpuff scarf taking all winter, then went on to a couple of hats. Specifically, a thrum hat.<br />
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What is a thrum hat? Well, thrums are best thought of as being like little dreadlocks, made of loose yarn worked into the weave of a hat, then kept from turning into a solid mat when the hat was felted. Think of it as a kind of faux fur, especially as the thrums in modern knitting are often unspun wool and to the inside for maximum insulation. I want to say there was a period pair of Norse mittens with thrums to the inside as well....<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0nWobUUPNJT9pXaoKvj_NGvncN8iJXUvYg2QUjL1QZctTcMMPTRG_79znjL9oLSV1VV4Lt67Ez8RS4zHLdEgQH68T8e4qaqStRubac0jBVkBjknJTT3SYQNgErtX_diGDH6ITQkvE354/s1600/AN00123404_001_l.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="651" data-original-width="750" height="346" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0nWobUUPNJT9pXaoKvj_NGvncN8iJXUvYg2QUjL1QZctTcMMPTRG_79znjL9oLSV1VV4Lt67Ez8RS4zHLdEgQH68T8e4qaqStRubac0jBVkBjknJTT3SYQNgErtX_diGDH6ITQkvE354/s400/AN00123404_001_l.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.britishmuseum.org/research/collection_online/collection_object_details.aspx?assetId=123404001&objectId=1550513&partId=1" target="_blank">Phlegmaticus. 1600, Netherlands.<br />British Museum. 1868,0612.2120</a></td></tr>
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You see the style on sailors quite often--no surprise there, as the hats are almost weatherproof and extremely warm, even up into the 18th century. You also see them in some of the Bruegel peasant paintings; common colours are red (especially madder red), white (natural sheep), and blue (woad).<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaT0GIe2R2KQZm6xZ8uk8U6NDHEDlhJhGYdph_5n5DHjQwNM9NSaDUZIhWhfPLUHy_zD0l4YK69SgEwG5Gt2JyFsBeCxYmlPjgbBytKTMn3hwXMLl3isdNh32BTmjgI5NkPD0K9SSEy10/s1600/70319935_2207423296054041_4248723636527038464_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaT0GIe2R2KQZm6xZ8uk8U6NDHEDlhJhGYdph_5n5DHjQwNM9NSaDUZIhWhfPLUHy_zD0l4YK69SgEwG5Gt2JyFsBeCxYmlPjgbBytKTMn3hwXMLl3isdNh32BTmjgI5NkPD0K9SSEy10/s400/70319935_2207423296054041_4248723636527038464_o.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">To go mushrooming, I wore my <a href="https://matsukazesewing.blogspot.com/2015/12/dungiven-jacket-documentation-and.html" target="_blank">Dungiven Suit</a>. <br />Just because it needed to be worn..</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I used the pattern by<a href="https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/thrum-cap" target="_blank"> Sally Pointer</a> (link to her Ravelry pattern), and found it fairly easy to follow, even
with not knowing what I'm doing; there are plenty of knitting videos on youtube to explain things if you get lost. For a brief time last year, it
seamed like everyone was making them! Or at least a few people were, including myself. <br />
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I had never knitted anything which was not flat...i.e. a scarf. Beginning to knit with the dpns was somewhat intimidating and prickly.<br />
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While the pattern called for size 8 needles, I accidentally read size 5 needles instead of 5mm (or size 8). Which means my hat was much more tightly woven than it was supposed to have been, especially given that my tension tends to be high anyways.<br />
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I tried a variety of different placements for the thrums. Eventually, I think I settled on every 4 or 5 stitches every 2 or 3 rows. I am not sure at this point.<br />
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The muppet scalp is taking shape. For this project I used Valley Yarns <a href="https://www.yarn.com/products/valley-yarns-berkshire-bulky" target="_blank">Berkshires Bulky</a>, which is an unplied wool/alpaca blend--it behaved fairly well, on the whole, and is super soft.<br />
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The finished hat, turned inside out. Kinda reminds me of a sea anemone.<br />
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Hat completed, with zero yarn to spare. I even unraveled the sizing swatch to use for thrums. Naturally, I had to try it on....and I had forgotten what it is like to have long bangs in your eyes. Most annoying.<br />
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Fulling something is always so cathartic, especially since I tend to throw it against a flat surface (often inside the sink) until exhausted and it comes to shape. <br />
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I did find that the thrum has was less enjoyable to full as I had to be careful to avoid the thrums from turning into a solid mass of fiber. Therefore, I really do not recommend using a washing machine to do the job, as many knitwear instructions have you do. But in the end I succeeded and resulted in this deflated sea urchin. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjr3Udt-IoxvN17mqG81Eqs-CymfSY09RwU-DsW0ofuGGSbnqWjRaRCb-w1QxbIFVzONNXerFMErcdE25H2Xyvkhh7xNyCzX-ui7Ls3nsyUCet0nuyN-XNlF_8max-leUlbEwVDTfLM3OY/s1600/51960882_1876756912454016_484446597019598848_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1197" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjr3Udt-IoxvN17mqG81Eqs-CymfSY09RwU-DsW0ofuGGSbnqWjRaRCb-w1QxbIFVzONNXerFMErcdE25H2Xyvkhh7xNyCzX-ui7Ls3nsyUCet0nuyN-XNlF_8max-leUlbEwVDTfLM3OY/s400/51960882_1876756912454016_484446597019598848_o.jpg" width="298" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Complete with googly eyes, per everybody's request.</td></tr>
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This particular hat was intended as a gift, and I managed to finish it in time for her ~<span style="background-color: #444444;">Censored</span>~ birthday in February. I have since completed a thrum hat for myself, in the same yarn but thrummed with a more copper or madder orange coloured wool--this is the one in the header photo.<br />
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For the second hat, I did do a couple of things differently in knitting it. While I used the same yarn (mostly--the top 1/4th of the thrums is the lighter weight version of the same yarn, since I purchased the last two skeins of the bulky), I did my knitting on #7 bone dpn needles from Wm.Booth, draper (#7s are the largest they sell). Other than the slight fear I was going to break them, they were wonderful to work with. Smooth without being so slick the yarn would slide off, as was a slight issue with the steel needles. The fact they /are/ potentially breakable meant my tension was slightly less, and plus was using a size closer to the called for.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQtW5JKNAau2Dpe04okLl2syNa6-4SMoxZ_-cwvoHUX4psHHMxHvl6LCO66x9QOTKLDbUDNYdHZFzLhumIkFqzeTFsZvbrYALOdnU6wyv-Q-Ag8tCK6eIm9D0tD6GgwNzuWt9Zv8WcfnU/s1600/68738163_2193263237467771_5089596740374364160_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1319" data-original-width="1055" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQtW5JKNAau2Dpe04okLl2syNa6-4SMoxZ_-cwvoHUX4psHHMxHvl6LCO66x9QOTKLDbUDNYdHZFzLhumIkFqzeTFsZvbrYALOdnU6wyv-Q-Ag8tCK6eIm9D0tD6GgwNzuWt9Zv8WcfnU/s400/68738163_2193263237467771_5089596740374364160_o.jpg" width="318" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On mine, it originally devoured my head before fulling.</td></tr>
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The other change was the density of the thrum additions. For this hat, I used two strands (doubled) every three stitches, and every two rows--I felt the thrums were slightly scanty on the first hat. I have been wondering if I have overdone it on this one...<br />
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...I don't think I did! It fulled up fairly well--I don't think it was as difficult as on the last thrum hat, since the gauge was a bit looser this time. I think it was also easier to keep the thrums from matting into a solid mass, since there were more of them. Even though it looked like overkill of thrummage, apparently it wasn't.<br />
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Bonus shot of<a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dacrymyces_palmatus" target="_blank"> jelly fungi</a>, or fairy butter. I used to collect these as a kid, since they come in multiple colours.<br />
Sadly, I didn't find any mushrooms on my woods walk, much less edible ones. <br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">©
John Frey, 2019. The Author of this work retains full copyright for this
material. Permission is granted to make
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research or educational purposes provided the copyright notice and this
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Brann mac Finnchadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04614813862245766203noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2468874881802139741.post-4047182240668221732019-09-03T00:00:00.000-08:002019-09-03T09:34:37.223-08:00A Norfolk Jacket for CyclingBack in April, late one night I decided I needed a cycling jacket--I started doing most of my commuting and errands on two wheels back at the beginning of December, and having to wear a Carhart jacket for warmth was just killing me. Not a look I like, and not designed for cycling, either. I also had issues in that it was way too warm for anything above 20*F, never mind rainy weather--I would get soaked both from sweat and the precipitation.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYgVMBlAI8cB3ijjL6gZJ2vPpxXi1K10H7NDOlOPGImKXWko7hDzmK6n5iOS6mvU3hLGXOKExoUp8nrH3DpGyqoUOAdEIHXSBdno9lH3hHcjyu7YsOky2u2aZwFr6ei65CTqDvOL-eDNo/s1600/IMG_20190830_170412.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1197" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYgVMBlAI8cB3ijjL6gZJ2vPpxXi1K10H7NDOlOPGImKXWko7hDzmK6n5iOS6mvU3hLGXOKExoUp8nrH3DpGyqoUOAdEIHXSBdno9lH3hHcjyu7YsOky2u2aZwFr6ei65CTqDvOL-eDNo/s400/IMG_20190830_170412.jpg" width="297" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">More photos of it being worn towards the bottom <br />
of the post.<br />
And safety first, even when just getting photos!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<a name='more'></a>So I promptly drafted and cut one out in light brown bull denim and wool flannel. The original plan was to go with something similar to my <a href="https://matsukazesewing.blogspot.com/2016/07/1860s-sailors-topcoat-travel-challenge.html" target="_blank">Sailor's topcoat</a>--a paletot--I ended up modifying it into a Norfolk jacket.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuIe8X3nwRllXrnQeW6y9f-vpA1d74Sa432uEjeLi3bJnnyQuA9jcZufPLwXt_SlCiFdwtknRApU-G3Bu31oPFxx-4Lg7EaGL9Y5TceeVqpFC52tDXSQEDKfNkcyRY4bAvXvrp8Q5PhCE/s1600/IMG_20190416_215430.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1197" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuIe8X3nwRllXrnQeW6y9f-vpA1d74Sa432uEjeLi3bJnnyQuA9jcZufPLwXt_SlCiFdwtknRApU-G3Bu31oPFxx-4Lg7EaGL9Y5TceeVqpFC52tDXSQEDKfNkcyRY4bAvXvrp8Q5PhCE/s400/IMG_20190416_215430.jpg" width="298" /></a></div>
While I normally would have referred to <a href="http://catalog.hathitrust.org/Record/100153684" target="_blank">Vincent's Tailoring manual of 1890</a>, I did not have my computer available...the result is that I drafted it freehand. On the whole, I am happy with how it came out. <br />
When drafting something complicated like this, I like to draw it out on paper first, possibly to scale. This allows me to get a feel for the shape and directions, as well as potentially letting me separate the pieces so that it actually has seam allowances.<br />
<br />
A bit more detail on the first steps can be found in my <a href="https://matsukazesewing.blogspot.com/2019/04/a-jacket-for-cycling-project-journal.html" target="_blank">April Project Journal</a>.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjc_nVLdwi-O76WZXm-edDd6oECIhOUWq5Y5izrXnWPJu5NYThBleh3Km0gGTTd3Uv_niNkrOGsFw9OYkgDSJVdO176sMJM7HpY8CUHtE3Xe5oF6GxI9D1vNPu_2KEHPIpcvC-lHcW9abc/s1600/IMG_20190416_221319.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1197" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjc_nVLdwi-O76WZXm-edDd6oECIhOUWq5Y5izrXnWPJu5NYThBleh3Km0gGTTd3Uv_niNkrOGsFw9OYkgDSJVdO176sMJM7HpY8CUHtE3Xe5oF6GxI9D1vNPu_2KEHPIpcvC-lHcW9abc/s320/IMG_20190416_221319.jpg" width="239" /></a></div>
When I first cut it out, I decided to leave the sidebody attached, and just sew up the dart there. I ended up liking this enough that I just left it that way, forming something more like a long sac coat draft. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsCJqf6dd-srKJ_KzvKyyh_ngy3McXuIXzk6wNXEQVyxhC7zJOX-GJg9fVAUpjqD05XdGpzZrasy5Dhnl6Fix2L8gY7F4EIdbFHs4b3L7w_R97GCTIvIUeLlPCYmOl9kf7dMVRI62pr50/s1600/IMG_20190416_230111.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsCJqf6dd-srKJ_KzvKyyh_ngy3McXuIXzk6wNXEQVyxhC7zJOX-GJg9fVAUpjqD05XdGpzZrasy5Dhnl6Fix2L8gY7F4EIdbFHs4b3L7w_R97GCTIvIUeLlPCYmOl9kf7dMVRI62pr50/s320/IMG_20190416_230111.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
Because it is a cycling jacket, it was more important that the jacket fit when I am in this bent over position (all the way down to back parallel to the road), than when standing up. Which means the back needs to be slightly broader and longer than for a normal coat, and the sleeves also require slight adjustments. <br />
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The coat was sized so that I could wear it over my woolen waistcoats in cold weather.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqO32hG_Z87L-uoCywNDp-KDHyIecaVLJPrbOR9M3lnv2ttd7wklelk86zjxNv-sJncOvu5s7_LfCFyHFeBGyqISXMx0EB_VHhDwgHMST55_xH1ctgONCfgkDPWW2gngP3FryzgJF0fIM/s1600/IMG_20190417_001740.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1197" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqO32hG_Z87L-uoCywNDp-KDHyIecaVLJPrbOR9M3lnv2ttd7wklelk86zjxNv-sJncOvu5s7_LfCFyHFeBGyqISXMx0EB_VHhDwgHMST55_xH1ctgONCfgkDPWW2gngP3FryzgJF0fIM/s320/IMG_20190417_001740.jpg" width="239" /></a></div>
Again, because of the position you are in whilst riding, you don't want to have stuff in front pockets--at times my knees touch my chest. So I included splitting the garment at the middle of the back to form a back pocket<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPbiVoxT_PBiM9hfEx89CxY-bOh0RQdu90-IB7V06kIS830dgPxt0uAAT3n-hp_b8VzwcZjFdlEBAtEVkq30rWcSCmPOAi_T_tTy4G9TkrCSMcHzowmlZucqYpSY_YDphtC6BYq_ME1BA/s1600/IMG_20190417_002540.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1197" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPbiVoxT_PBiM9hfEx89CxY-bOh0RQdu90-IB7V06kIS830dgPxt0uAAT3n-hp_b8VzwcZjFdlEBAtEVkq30rWcSCmPOAi_T_tTy4G9TkrCSMcHzowmlZucqYpSY_YDphtC6BYq_ME1BA/s320/IMG_20190417_002540.jpg" width="239" /></a></div>
The full front piece, with the linings of tan wool flannel (a thrift store find) being cut out. <br />
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Just for a touch of whimsy, I decided I wanted red facings on this garment. If I had thought of it, I would have inserted the reflective piping below in there as well, but the scrap red flannel gives a flash of colour. <br />
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Sometime around there, I decided that I wanted to turn it into a Norfolk jacket, with applied pleats. And because I wanted some reflective material...I had to piece them out of three strips, plus the piping in the seams <br />
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The slightly heartbreaking feel of cutting open the back of your coat... The result was a double swing-back to give better range of motion. <br />
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And the piping does work, as you see. This and the photo below were taken with flash. <br />
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Rather than having a swing front, I elected to install somewhat hidden front breast pockets! This was surprisingly a bit of a challenge, since I had never done this style before; in order to help you do so, I wrote up a tutorial on how I did it, which can <a href="https://matsukazesewing.blogspot.com/2019/05/norfolk-jacket-pockets-brief-tutorial.html" target="_blank">be found here</a>. <br />
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Body being all but assembled...sleeve drafting was required. I used a fairly standard method, with nothing fancy beyond lengthening the hindarm seam slightly.<br />
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And tried out for fit. <br />
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I had decided I wanted a cut on cuff--this was partly because I was running seriously low on fabric. I managed it, but I barely had enough of the fashion material. <br />
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For safety reasons, I elected to run reflective piping down the hindarm seam and around the cuff. One of the worst things is when somebody elects to pass you (usually on a blind corner) as you are signalling a left turn*. I considered piping it in the shape of a giant arrow, but elected not to as you can see.<br />
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*I don't know if they don't know what manual signals look like, or if they are just jerks (substituted for ruder word) and ignoring it, but it ticks me off.<br />
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Sometime after the sleeves were assembled and flat, came the first dose of Scotch-guard--I wanted to spray down the inside of the denim as well.<br />
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Rear pocket installed! Corduroy (scrap) on one side, and denim on the other. I ended up redoing the opening--binding it on the top edge rather than a rolled hem, but that doesn't change much.<br />
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Front patch pockets in place! These aren't intended to get much use--mostly just a place to put something like my sunglasses when I get off the bike.<br />
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So...little secret here. I had not intended to put leather shoulder yokes on the garment. But for the life of me I could not get the applied straps to line up front and back. The result was that I elected to just cover it up with scrap leather--it does have the bonus of covering up the seam to increase weather resistance as well. <br />
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Side and shoulder seams sewn (and felled, as well), and the signature belt of a Norfolk jacket sewn in place. It's only sewn on the back (sides are loose), and doesn't go through the pocketing. Why a leather belt? ...because at this point I was completely out of denim.<br />
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The belt is actually rather low in the back--about hip level when I stand up straight. This is because, as said, the fit is designed for being in a cycling posture.<br />
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Back lining laid in place, and sewn down to the seam allowance of the denim. And felled to the red facings. <br />
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This is a shoulder seam, but I did the side seams the same way--one side sewn to the seam allowance, and the other side felled on top of that.<br />
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As with the front and the vent facings, I faced the cuff in the red flannel as well. Start by sewing right sides together... <br />
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Then it magically becomes a neatly mitred corner. Really!<br />
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No, but I have a tutorial on how to make <a href="http://matsukazesewing.blogspot.com/2015/07/installing-sleeve-vent.html" target="_blank">working suit cuffs</a> on the blog. These didn't come out the prettiest, mind--I recommend moving the seam joining a separate cuff slightly so you don't have a bunch of seams in one place. <br />
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Lining was sewn in place via the usual method...install sleeve lining, fold the cuff back, and overcast in place. Some trimming may be called for. <br />
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When the sleeves were sewn to the body of the jacket, I went through all the layers. They then got bound with a strip of wool.<br />
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Front facing in place.<br />
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I more or less freehand the collar, cutting it out of bias cut canvas. Because I intended to sew the topcollar from leather, I could not have a >< shaped center back seam--it would have been too bulky. This just made things a little more difficult, but I managed.<br />
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Also, I hate drafting collars even worse than sleeves--and I know this is because I don't really understand them.<br />
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The undercollar was cut in the red wool flannel, same allowances turned to the inside and sewn down to the canvas. Then I padstitched to give the collar stand some stiffness and shape the break.<br />
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I decided that this would be another good spot to include piping, and so basted it in place. The collar was also pressed to help it behave. I did not pad-stitch the entire thing mainly because I ran out of red-linen thread. <br />
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Top collar in brown leather going into place! It was handsewn in place, of course.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjb41WjKcIHgCd3ty-LvIOV_NDeaX3pU_89NyAYopriI8COmkUus33wFOJtRnARM-Le2Yy1N9CfFu67XfvZMiwUDOahi9nAoa6RTGaeaeK9kPgp1ayK_HVAuzoaBLWFKYlax0doyAQwzts/s1600/IMG_20190729_120129.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjb41WjKcIHgCd3ty-LvIOV_NDeaX3pU_89NyAYopriI8COmkUus33wFOJtRnARM-Le2Yy1N9CfFu67XfvZMiwUDOahi9nAoa6RTGaeaeK9kPgp1ayK_HVAuzoaBLWFKYlax0doyAQwzts/s320/IMG_20190729_120129.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
And installed! I am fairly happy with it, although the part where it joins the revers is a bit rough. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJKnrTMjS68835n-G2gKKUAxYZr9RtXa0ZCQcNpdntF2OxuI_mR1zkQ0ddtbdUy6SqSjDy2K-v8p0a19vwv9DrSeAVHGu2lmZfroBbKwPMJmfEPECy8_Ry3gSeAUAchJ9bBPo9CAioWI8/s1600/IMG_20190731_125155.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1197" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJKnrTMjS68835n-G2gKKUAxYZr9RtXa0ZCQcNpdntF2OxuI_mR1zkQ0ddtbdUy6SqSjDy2K-v8p0a19vwv9DrSeAVHGu2lmZfroBbKwPMJmfEPECy8_Ry3gSeAUAchJ9bBPo9CAioWI8/s320/IMG_20190731_125155.jpg" width="239" /></a></div>
At the top of each side vent, in order to cover up the less than attractive join, is a small patch. Not something you see in modern suits, but you do in 18th century ones (and I didn't know what I was doing). <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitEWr-Lvr36ff1zyJHo2456zw-UgYdrPmfxDI-7wAio1b_sbJYKpLZzogsa235FMicV1hNXaFKGPB5JmCHKhHuZ5FNZZuk-OY7QofHThvYWrv7pgYaOlb5A_LnrOujzt_7ceUYQ8QHEo8/s1600/IMG_20190801_112429.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1197" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitEWr-Lvr36ff1zyJHo2456zw-UgYdrPmfxDI-7wAio1b_sbJYKpLZzogsa235FMicV1hNXaFKGPB5JmCHKhHuZ5FNZZuk-OY7QofHThvYWrv7pgYaOlb5A_LnrOujzt_7ceUYQ8QHEo8/s320/IMG_20190801_112429.jpg" width="239" /></a></div>
Buttonholes and prick-stitching the front edges were the final steps and fairly straightforwarded.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0AKmfcwjy2u0MedzWccbXw3KsZScIOzlafZ2u_AaG9i4UQ9622QXHu4f8OSFMvrMNBliXJj2lCo9AuGkZNs7bkzxHU3jqMrGumiD0_g1olsyBnfrWKH3dQfZgTpKjUEQYEHMUAo7bZSY/s1600/IMG_20190830_170522.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="886" data-original-width="1049" height="336" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0AKmfcwjy2u0MedzWccbXw3KsZScIOzlafZ2u_AaG9i4UQ9622QXHu4f8OSFMvrMNBliXJj2lCo9AuGkZNs7bkzxHU3jqMrGumiD0_g1olsyBnfrWKH3dQfZgTpKjUEQYEHMUAo7bZSY/s400/IMG_20190830_170522.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ready to descend! Or fight a headwind. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
This was my first attempt at a Norfolk jacket, first time not using a base drafting method for this kind of thing (going off the cuff), first time sewing something with modern suit vents (and English ones, at that!), first time in 10 years that I have used piping of any kind. I learned a fair amount on what to do and not do when it comes to more modern style coats--hopefully I can retain it!--, plus the learning which comes from doing topstitching on a machine--something I also haven't done in years. I figured out how to do those front pleat pockets on Norfolk jackets.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlOXLMD0GxJjda25BC31adrmWrQ9p4coXzwoI5rW2NyCtZIIdP17XaCPaKl_zhm06mpT7k2ilcQgpiHQrMWMsvsJTeH2aL9aCOhrR1ulDeIMB0FHLZhLIWCce8V_njqP3V1U9ZMOt0ro4/s1600/IMG_20190830_170726.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="953" data-original-width="1117" height="341" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlOXLMD0GxJjda25BC31adrmWrQ9p4coXzwoI5rW2NyCtZIIdP17XaCPaKl_zhm06mpT7k2ilcQgpiHQrMWMsvsJTeH2aL9aCOhrR1ulDeIMB0FHLZhLIWCce8V_njqP3V1U9ZMOt0ro4/s400/IMG_20190830_170726.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Where I am probably 50% of the time that I'm not expecting to brake.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
On the whole, I am fairly happy with it. The collar is a touch rough in fit, and I wish I had designed it so that the front pleats had run all the way down--with the belt going under them like belt loops, rather than concealing the ends of the "pleats" as I did. I also misplaced the vent on the sleeves--the buttons are in the way when I lay down on the hoods.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvmjS_oh4jnH4rImvqq9S_1b5K1926nJ6XIaIGSXIDidvvvvDFPEAgr8o-h6Zyq13xWsezEvzCDXsM3kGsMDBwS2ZJPIGpRufaFE-xot_ZvbxlxY9YlVFyPahaFgBSy05EDA5izVvOp5c/s1600/IMG_20190830_170731.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1285" data-original-width="1549" height="330" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvmjS_oh4jnH4rImvqq9S_1b5K1926nJ6XIaIGSXIDidvvvvDFPEAgr8o-h6Zyq13xWsezEvzCDXsM3kGsMDBwS2ZJPIGpRufaFE-xot_ZvbxlxY9YlVFyPahaFgBSy05EDA5izVvOp5c/s400/IMG_20190830_170731.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nicely comfortable on the hoods.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
In the end, this is a functional garment, and works well for keeping me warm, dry, and stylish...in theory. Since I finished it, it pretty much hasn't rained at all, and has been too warm to actually go for a ride while wearing the coat. But I am looking forwards to giving it some serious use come winter.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBcdKkc6-BSAfoL4rnufiHvvc_kgJJ6yT15moVp5pM4SHZzlbqXpYn5gLk2ffxQ_DF8PZjHg9FAjH-HTqDHOThKy18zHPfPSGo0iL2JjZ6P4SeqS9DtUGBP90VZ-8FKatyLihO3OYcc9U/s1600/IMG_20190830_170751.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1384" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBcdKkc6-BSAfoL4rnufiHvvc_kgJJ6yT15moVp5pM4SHZzlbqXpYn5gLk2ffxQ_DF8PZjHg9FAjH-HTqDHOThKy18zHPfPSGo0iL2JjZ6P4SeqS9DtUGBP90VZ-8FKatyLihO3OYcc9U/s640/IMG_20190830_170751.jpg" width="552" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Collar up for inclement weather. I dosed the undercollar with scotch-guard as well.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">©
John Frey, 2019. The Author of this work retains full copyright for this
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Brann mac Finnchadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04614813862245766203noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2468874881802139741.post-69026469592353031272019-08-29T14:14:00.000-08:002019-08-30T13:20:31.705-08:00A Work-a-Day Elizabethan ShirtWell...mostly work a day. This project was intended to be just a shirt to wear under my late period wear; one which does /not/ have silk insertion seams as the last shirt I made does. Even though the silk sewn shirt is fairly heavy and should be durable, my brain won't let me abuse and get it dirty as I probably will with this one. This project was completed a good six months ago, and took about nine months of procrastinating to finish--there is a certain amount of guesswork since I wasn't doing a good job of journaling my projects during that time.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGXcq_EzMj95SVYSRzA2HkveO7BMNDuL_UK8zj4kL4NEMFjHSZVaoA1eVpyXyH_QnOD6IckC0ifCNs7BEoq3VCYrOUX8O6zDb2cqsZ3iX2eTkvWH0pXQpbYahYMZVrtW9mi1EkF5jLb20/s1600/69200817_2195151960614508_4541343572334477312_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="711" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGXcq_EzMj95SVYSRzA2HkveO7BMNDuL_UK8zj4kL4NEMFjHSZVaoA1eVpyXyH_QnOD6IckC0ifCNs7BEoq3VCYrOUX8O6zDb2cqsZ3iX2eTkvWH0pXQpbYahYMZVrtW9mi1EkF5jLb20/s640/69200817_2195151960614508_4541343572334477312_n.jpg" width="474" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wearing the pluderhose from my <a href="https://matsukazesewing.blogspot.com/2017/01/1570s-brunswick-man-overview.html" target="_blank">Brunswick Suit</a> for the photos.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<a name='more'></a><br />
<h4>
Garment Description:</h4>
On the whole, this project was a fairly standard patterned shirt for the era; extremely full body gathered into a moderately stiff collar, sleeves moderately full (not as full as they become in the first half of the 17th cen, but certainly not fitted). It is quite astonishing to see the amount of fabric which goes into an upper class late 16th century shirt, although they do begin to get slightly narrower in the last quarter or so of the century. I chose not to have any integrated ruffles on the top edge of the collar or sleeve cuffs--including them may have been slightly more common for the earlier part of my target 1560-80, but I wanted to keep it plain...I can always wear a separate ruff on top when I chose to be fancier.<br />
<br />
On the whole, shirts were your primary undergarment, and protected the much less washable materials of your fashion layers from skin oils and sweat. That said, they could have done so with much less fabric in them...conspicuous consumption was definitely a thing here. The majority of the surviving examples I have noted, and many of those which are visible in paintings (mostly earlier in the century, admittedly) also show blackwork or mono-chrome embroidery (including whitework); I feel it is safe to assume there is some survival bias going on here, as shirts would be passed down until fit only for rags. There are also some other results of wearing such a poofy shirt--I find it effects the shape of the doublet worn over it to some degree.<br />
<br />
<h4>
Sources:</h4>
My main source of information was--of course--<i>Patterns of Fashion 4</i> by Janet Arnold. More specifically, the shirt worn by Nils Sture, patterned on page 68. Another piece of inspiration was the un-be-ruffled shirt noted on page 20, illustrations 7/8A and B which belonged to the same family and had plain cuffs and collar (and was not detailed by Janet Arnold).<br />
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1VQ1xoOkP1PN3POsfNWKxn1hBMidSqUR6-n69avUhFgDaXuthHgPOZl8eH4E5zuHN1tAIzumAcPyTAysz5GbzoHzFjRygJNxWj4TsJLyG5rxtNLualdZzC_WOPl8HkMn1i_UxagZhHsU/s1600/Sture+Shirt%252C+Upper+detail.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="1512" height="253" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1VQ1xoOkP1PN3POsfNWKxn1hBMidSqUR6-n69avUhFgDaXuthHgPOZl8eH4E5zuHN1tAIzumAcPyTAysz5GbzoHzFjRygJNxWj4TsJLyG5rxtNLualdZzC_WOPl8HkMn1i_UxagZhHsU/s640/Sture+Shirt%252C+Upper+detail.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Shirt of Nils Sture. <br />
I am uncertain of the image source, as it was saved on my PC years ago.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<h4>
Who:</h4>
My persona (of any version) would not have made his own shirt, even if I weren't an Irish savage--it is something which would have been purchased from a specialist, most likely ready made. Looking through the introduction to <i>PoF4<b> </b></i>you can see that shirts would mostly have been made by seamstresses, with embroidery (including openwork seams) and other forms of decoration being done by another specialist. Occasionally a shirt might be made for a husband, son, or--in the case of 6 year old Princess Elizabeth for her little brother Edward--even brother as a labour of love (and useful way of staving off boredom, perhaps).<br />
<br />
In all likelihood, a shirt like this--given how plain it is--would have been purchased off the rack when needed by upper middle class as an everyday piece of wardrobe.<br />
<br />
<h4>
My Goals:</h4>
My primary goal was the usual: I need this, therefore I shall make this. I wanted a relatively plain, durable shirt I could wear under my late period wear when I am not fencing (as I have a separate shirt for that, which passes the punch test), but not feel like I had to worry about as with my openworked shirt. As I started the project at an event, I chose to not overthink the pattern, and used a variation of the one I used previously. While I didn't plan to, I ended up handsewing the garment completely...oops. I took it as an opportunity to practice my hand working and such, I guess.<br />
<br />
I don't think I had any specific not-goals, other than duplicating the fineness of similar original shirts--one of the modifications from period practice which I used was a much heavier linen, for durability.<br />
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4t93v_Ej1YiKowq2dm_9rUYPgrKpPTAN3ZS_-thAyMg1XwGlzFkTVQT3-_SMeh0o9Hs5v4pc1UoeNOf2ncuEw1tdpal440t2lF482CeK4xQK2u0Z2WqMdOTBe5qMLbDukPkRSNVIZ4_A/s1600/alpirs+bach+cuff+back.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="832" data-original-width="936" height="284" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4t93v_Ej1YiKowq2dm_9rUYPgrKpPTAN3ZS_-thAyMg1XwGlzFkTVQT3-_SMeh0o9Hs5v4pc1UoeNOf2ncuEw1tdpal440t2lF482CeK4xQK2u0Z2WqMdOTBe5qMLbDukPkRSNVIZ4_A/s320/alpirs+bach+cuff+back.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cuff from Alpirsbach Monastery </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<h4>
Materials:</h4>
Linen. White. That is pretty much the option, although there was some variation in how coarse it was, even in the same garment--the cuffs/collar might be of a coarser linen than the rest of the garment (to support the fastenings, presumably), but for an upper (middle) class the linen is a good bit heavier than common for period.<br />
<br />
For my garment, I used the Sew Classic Linen suiting from Joann Fabrics. While most of their fabrics are not particularly useful for historical costuming, this particular linen is actually of a decently tight weave and not particularly slubby (unlike certain popular online stores)...on the other hand, it's only available in white, ivory, navy blue, and apparently natural. I used the white.<br />
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaipm1Kat-7YHnhSvzycVNt9M2D8W9yJ2iLSFECZHkFdx0h5AdQ2NA_mBdVavWemT0kzQI4C2NlZkuyl7qdFrpZAatrtTRAhKcR7hndzrKuc6YgqoyghIDmIi1HhGVOoV9gvhD0OGvVMU/s1600/67926718_2196680923794945_1600780907319394304_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="632" data-original-width="960" height="262" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaipm1Kat-7YHnhSvzycVNt9M2D8W9yJ2iLSFECZHkFdx0h5AdQ2NA_mBdVavWemT0kzQI4C2NlZkuyl7qdFrpZAatrtTRAhKcR7hndzrKuc6YgqoyghIDmIi1HhGVOoV9gvhD0OGvVMU/s400/67926718_2196680923794945_1600780907319394304_n.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Patterns of Fashion 4, </i>Pp. 20<br />
The plain linen shirt mentioned.<br />
<i></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The collar was interfaced with a coarse linen to further support and stiffen it; I used the 7.1 oz white or natural from Fabric-store for this, as it was laying around.<br />
<br />
Handsewing was carried out with 50/3 and 60/2 white linen threads purchased from Wm. Booth. Gathering stitches were run with 16/2 so that it wouldn't break so easily when I pulled it to gather.<br />
<br />
<h4>
Pattern: </h4>
Overall, it is fairly simple...all rectangles. To determine the body panel width I roughly gathered a segment and figured out how many inches would compress down to 1 inch. The rest is based on neck size--how many inches will fit into half of your collar measurement (make sure to give room for the ruff if that band is being worn under!)? The Sture pattern I used has the shoulder seams made as a diagonal cutoff from the corners, which removes 2-3 inches from the width from each side. You can either take that into account or not--since my math gave me something close to the full width of the fabric (58"?) I just went with that. Pieces should be long enough to come to your knees, with the front being 1-2 inches shorter than the back.<br />
<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Patterns of Fashion 4, </i>Pp 69. <br />
Included to show what I mean by the corners being cut diagonally.<br />
<i></i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Sleeves are also two rectangles. Only slightly longer than your full arm measurement (elbow bent, etc.), and I chose to make them roughly 20" wide. I did not note down the reasoning behind this measure, so it could have been scaled from patterns in <i>PoF4</i>, or just chosen semi-randomly--I generally use something close to that with my tunics. You don't want it to be too large. Likewise, there is an underarm gusset as well, which isn't huge--I used a full handspan (5") including seam allowances, since it is close to the period gusset sizes.<br />
<br />
Cuff depth was based on the period examples and is (finished) 1.25", but of 4 layers of linen--therefore cut from a strip about 6" wide. Collar height was either based on period examples or my neck height--I honestly cannot remember. Doublet collar height may also be a suspect for what I based it on.<br />
<br />
THAT SAID, in writing this documentation I have come to the conclusion that I used too much fabric in the body of the garment. Potentially twice as much as called for. And am not the only one who has come to that slightly sickening realization after finishing the project, apparently. I will look into it more at a later time (or someone else will) to avoid getting off track right now, since it'll involve some number crunching.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjY3EhqG0vUTQ4pJ4cKMNqE54jsUi_Zc_YKi2x25bzddHBo9HQO_CVpXp7R9PVT3bHw0smb8wN_Vc6Hwo30swUHvVwVe3e7mt-vy_x_bX0ei9337aweKg1x91tHFfmfVKsp9v-7gTxBipA/s1600/69171296_2195152153947822_4414008937448210432_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="718" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjY3EhqG0vUTQ4pJ4cKMNqE54jsUi_Zc_YKi2x25bzddHBo9HQO_CVpXp7R9PVT3bHw0smb8wN_Vc6Hwo30swUHvVwVe3e7mt-vy_x_bX0ei9337aweKg1x91tHFfmfVKsp9v-7gTxBipA/s400/69171296_2195152153947822_4414008937448210432_n.jpg" width="298" /></a></div>
<h4>
Seams:</h4>
For the most part I used run and fell seams as the simplest and most period. In a few strategic areas a backstitch may have been used for strength. The collar and cuffs were attached with a combination of whip-stitch, back-stitch, prick-stitch (a form of backstitch), and stab-stitch (a running stitch varient). <br />
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For the felling, while it was all done with an overcast stitch of some kind, I used a couple different varients, trying different things. I know that for part of it I was using more of a hemstitch to minimize visibility of the finished stitching on the right side--since the right side stitch is in line with the fabric grain, it becomes hard to see. Then moved to more of a traditional overcast with with a realization that they would not have cared about that in period. In the end, looking at the shirt, I can't tell where I used which variation for the most part.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGU6OQEHMeguhYeponbsp3ORV54YQCvw25UFy1O4tzH-szyI5lnLRobkxKj5istiY5NucUL-_X2oe7XfSNBXsFgNAlBhFj7OlGAzVm82omwDFqD8G1GaK58Oq3E6RYZQ32kWtI4MjfugM/s1600/38018503_1639327872861313_3186318468899143680_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="1080" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGU6OQEHMeguhYeponbsp3ORV54YQCvw25UFy1O4tzH-szyI5lnLRobkxKj5istiY5NucUL-_X2oe7XfSNBXsFgNAlBhFj7OlGAzVm82omwDFqD8G1GaK58Oq3E6RYZQ32kWtI4MjfugM/s320/38018503_1639327872861313_3186318468899143680_o.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One of the rolled hems, on a sleeve opening.</td></tr>
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Hems: The rolled hems at the bosom slit were double folded rather than being a true rolled hem--this was partly because of the thickness of the fabric. I managed to use a true rolled hem on the sleeve openings. The whipstitch used to secure it was stitched so that the angled portion was on the right side of the fabric, which provides a little extra strength since it is passing over more threads. The bottom hem was double folded and sewn with a hemstitch.<br />
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<h4>
Construction:</h4>
After determining the size of my body pieces, and tearing them off the yardage, I trimmed the corners to give a diagonal measurement equal to my shoulder measurement (ignoring seam allowances, as the bias cut would stretch slightly). First mistake...I cut the wrong corners, so that the body pieces were rotated 90*. Oops. In the end I just re-cut the correct corner and decided to leave the mistake corners at the bottom hem rather than cutting the hem shorter.<br />
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<br />
With the pieces cut, the bosom slit was sewn. It is amazing how deep they are--usually roughly even with the bottom of the sleeve gusset, which is nearly to the sternum. I used a bone slicker to flatten the hem before sewing.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0ezQk-e3n8GgyIcmhTw3VQR6zN1tflwp9XDVKxP_mQBWoDHxpHp_YUVWOgQOlAqXdpoiy1taK3wTnOvSsb8vlORzPGWKIt2UXBCLhEvJj_0w6w-u-55F5uj3mQeAR81tNRKI_sWXgt5o/s1600/37712016_1628614000599367_5280535700565917696_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1350" data-original-width="1080" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0ezQk-e3n8GgyIcmhTw3VQR6zN1tflwp9XDVKxP_mQBWoDHxpHp_YUVWOgQOlAqXdpoiy1taK3wTnOvSsb8vlORzPGWKIt2UXBCLhEvJj_0w6w-u-55F5uj3mQeAR81tNRKI_sWXgt5o/s320/37712016_1628614000599367_5280535700565917696_o.jpg" width="256" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sewing the bosom slit.</td></tr>
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With that done, I ran two lines of even gathering stitches along the top edges. I just eyeballed it, rather than measuring and marking out every stitch location as you are conventionally told to do...I can keep my stitching tolerably even, and I rather doubt a shirtmaker historically would have gone to the trouble of marking it either.<br />
<br />
More hemming followed--the sleeve openings. After much reviewing of the
extant examples, I found that only a few inches of opening--including
the seam allowance--was called for. The hemming was done the same way
as on the bosom slit. Then gathering again same as before.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0tWlg6nkJ4JFShKvzPlk91XoNCA7bCYslLjJv_V0tFpoQF7qyJbE2dNt25Crcg5p7IPaDBd1r2Zhp2pKQJj7DjU6k4RWpaH4vniRMv4jonFTlMdFkSIQE11l20splyopDMhP-eXFNcL8/s1600/38801591_1655498361244264_1425088488323153920_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="808" data-original-width="1080" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0tWlg6nkJ4JFShKvzPlk91XoNCA7bCYslLjJv_V0tFpoQF7qyJbE2dNt25Crcg5p7IPaDBd1r2Zhp2pKQJj7DjU6k4RWpaH4vniRMv4jonFTlMdFkSIQE11l20splyopDMhP-eXFNcL8/s320/38801591_1655498361244264_1425088488323153920_o.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Attaching the cuff.</td></tr>
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As you can see above, I placed the pre-pressed cuff piece one seam allowance (about 1/2") from the raw edge of the sleeve, evenly spread the gathers, and used a large padstitch to baste the pieces together. The wrong side was secured with a fine prickstitch (uneven backstitch). I compressed the pleats slightly with the spritz of water to help them behave and lay straight, folded the right side over, then overcast it with one stitch per gather. The last step was topstitching with a prick stitch again to compress all the layers.<br />
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Before installing the collar, the shoulder seams needed to be sewn and finished. Simple and straight-forwarded, although I did my best to prevent the fabric from stretching. I may have used a backstitch for this seam so my stitching wouldn't break if/when the fabric did end up stretching.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMUJuf0mCW8h36QfgIDcN07JX2R2hcTUYmign7xEaQAs56AzxM-k9NKXGk-thb41IaVxFbVbYg6hUiPTijH2geW4dBNmc-nBqKiTsWVUrB5GIkqfHI73GsJC0mZlJUdou6zvmmbpEYY-E/s1600/41769875_1707891536004946_1822336713679175680_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1350" data-original-width="1080" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMUJuf0mCW8h36QfgIDcN07JX2R2hcTUYmign7xEaQAs56AzxM-k9NKXGk-thb41IaVxFbVbYg6hUiPTijH2geW4dBNmc-nBqKiTsWVUrB5GIkqfHI73GsJC0mZlJUdou6zvmmbpEYY-E/s320/41769875_1707891536004946_1822336713679175680_o.jpg" width="256" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Topstitching the collar.</td></tr>
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<span id="goog_275008644"></span><span id="goog_275008645"></span>The collar was treated in much the same way, although I sewed it right sides together on the inside and turned the collar rather than topstitching there. The first step though was to secure the layers of the collar, since I used a coarser linen interlining and needed to keep it from shifting. A prickstitch about 1/4" from the top edge of the collar was used.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrFaTNM01PsEXlSFQUbsiWo1n88t_tN0Bl0yRpa1IH8-7UXMxnOspU5yusxKspjWZ0eHLjQZw4ZC_Q8WQW7hx4j-3h_nVIpNnutNtQLgg64nIKg6Gb9kaCuyYB9NhqN5_gPJOAJcHxvxc/s1600/IMG_20180923_184842.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1197" data-original-width="1600" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrFaTNM01PsEXlSFQUbsiWo1n88t_tN0Bl0yRpa1IH8-7UXMxnOspU5yusxKspjWZ0eHLjQZw4ZC_Q8WQW7hx4j-3h_nVIpNnutNtQLgg64nIKg6Gb9kaCuyYB9NhqN5_gPJOAJcHxvxc/s400/IMG_20180923_184842.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Beginning to attach the collar. Before turning.</td></tr>
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Like the cuffs, after folding the right sides over I sewed it down with a whipstitch...one per gather. There were a lot of gathers... I mostly used basting rather than pins to hold everything in place. I like to use this method because it A) makes for a sturdy seam, and B) helps give definition to the gathers. I feel they spring a bit better as well.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsVb7S34PHBzlUZkkykxb2NS4e-Hyik_H4vx-s33QaP2oECdekbIrwe_sBQfDgr5TjfPzjpYblFH0PyC4p3V_i3hmDtbKT5iT-HxaOW1HpMKTdIgLBxlEyiTAVA1hqbPT6TD7KvOCeqEQ/s1600/IMG_20180923_201316.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1197" data-original-width="1600" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsVb7S34PHBzlUZkkykxb2NS4e-Hyik_H4vx-s33QaP2oECdekbIrwe_sBQfDgr5TjfPzjpYblFH0PyC4p3V_i3hmDtbKT5iT-HxaOW1HpMKTdIgLBxlEyiTAVA1hqbPT6TD7KvOCeqEQ/s320/IMG_20180923_201316.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gathers partly sewn.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghYqut9gdpLSLJOSiztHofjg19QGJWq2-Ygt8DEM0AKsaashSlmIIOEv0DHuWNe0BHgTXxgxLkQdsmESVPxo26gUB69HN8fSyKNunkBVYUiPDE05Wn9cTLzZp2fqF-ZlwTFeonzgfnQSo/s1600/IMG_20180924_095910.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1197" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghYqut9gdpLSLJOSiztHofjg19QGJWq2-Ygt8DEM0AKsaashSlmIIOEv0DHuWNe0BHgTXxgxLkQdsmESVPxo26gUB69HN8fSyKNunkBVYUiPDE05Wn9cTLzZp2fqF-ZlwTFeonzgfnQSo/s320/IMG_20180924_095910.jpg" width="239" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Temporary padstitching in place to hold the curve.</td></tr>
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At this point I diverged from my usual process and did some experimenting. Because of the thickness of the collar, I felt it would have issues curving naturally around my neck, so I decided to try unevenly tensioned stitching to give it a permanent curve. <br />
I did so by first temporarily padstitching the neckline to help hold the curve in place while I stitched it.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjP6tkQFaJcEflnz-o63rdS5uWlGBgibEF4r4CxY2AJRYJ34KMuxycsvhBZ0s6q5WBLiDadLA3a8KunGI3l0950sMKG3h65n0QHsDh4bCkn7Cbkfx8eEfXQUAIpuNwWims6a0-AZ-GECpQ/s1600/IMG_20180924_101332.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1197" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjP6tkQFaJcEflnz-o63rdS5uWlGBgibEF4r4CxY2AJRYJ34KMuxycsvhBZ0s6q5WBLiDadLA3a8KunGI3l0950sMKG3h65n0QHsDh4bCkn7Cbkfx8eEfXQUAIpuNwWims6a0-AZ-GECpQ/s400/IMG_20180924_101332.jpg" width="298" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Roughly halfway through topstitching the collar.</td></tr>
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Permanent padstitches were /not/ an option--I haven't seen any evidence of them being used in this way. So I used stab-stitching, working it with the curve held in the collar by basting stitches and fingers, and varying the tension so that the portions of the stitch on the inside of the collar have more tension than those one the outside.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOOpayoTgd4f8Lqw5rgKegoxM2SHumB9S_W7mHaZbZlfiPDDo_-SVSdxi_t2A5jVlyI6cpvn4LB4T3Ll_9v_iC06PoNyIsKdDIt7iy42tPQFl5KGuq3VR6pamosQx7mlcNunsABXNGY9k/s1600/IMG_20180929_223919.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1197" data-original-width="1600" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOOpayoTgd4f8Lqw5rgKegoxM2SHumB9S_W7mHaZbZlfiPDDo_-SVSdxi_t2A5jVlyI6cpvn4LB4T3Ll_9v_iC06PoNyIsKdDIt7iy42tPQFl5KGuq3VR6pamosQx7mlcNunsABXNGY9k/s400/IMG_20180929_223919.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Finished collar.</td></tr>
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It worked. Finishing the front edges of the collar was the last step there, as well as removing the padstitches (obviously not done when I took the photo).<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1dJtBPv9CaDiEriLpVB1cJC9GPhvKtboQ2uDoO_gb5irINYB-_m_DoxO7CDGXi0QLObIxm4qqLqpjp-d7ex0arKb8I_lHJItQldN8hHtaH8TjRQAqn-Nhqhcvdar_utYz7w9a9E4ISWw/s1600/IMG_20181113_064826.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1197" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1dJtBPv9CaDiEriLpVB1cJC9GPhvKtboQ2uDoO_gb5irINYB-_m_DoxO7CDGXi0QLObIxm4qqLqpjp-d7ex0arKb8I_lHJItQldN8hHtaH8TjRQAqn-Nhqhcvdar_utYz7w9a9E4ISWw/s320/IMG_20181113_064826.jpg" width="239" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One nice and neat armpit.</td></tr>
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Everything else was nice and easy--just run and fell seams. Sewing the underarm gussets is always a bit of a pain to get the right seam order, and I can never figure out how to explain it since I'm writing after the fact...other than the gusset gets sewn to the sleeve first, then that assembly goes on the body.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjf9lupyC2Ikpx9FxTZ_l7SlPoE9r_IownD9yB7mt6mOSwC024lDnTpyNHli3jded3XVxXLPGCe_pmNJvoe5S5y0i8GPcMzwiG5VsodymMNemvxtCuolVtjNR33cXK1MYmg-i7zjPe7rOs/s1600/IMG_20190313_161530.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1197" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjf9lupyC2Ikpx9FxTZ_l7SlPoE9r_IownD9yB7mt6mOSwC024lDnTpyNHli3jded3XVxXLPGCe_pmNJvoe5S5y0i8GPcMzwiG5VsodymMNemvxtCuolVtjNR33cXK1MYmg-i7zjPe7rOs/s320/IMG_20190313_161530.jpg" width="239" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Adorable gusset!</td></tr>
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The side seams are only sewn to the low hip level. At this point is a a tiny gusset, maybe an inch wide. This helps prevent tearouts at the seam, more than anything.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2cbcg2HS9GotfwlpgvSFYIdZMSKWTuZj278AJnw40LEFvpP7CbOStyKDiJIwtrXzKmrh1Pv-susLsVv-Qvp3DsntiOCwv4NUxikhuzpOCm5JN4Y3RcqzN3D2_TtuR2kYjylfREc5NoWs/s1600/51091436_1891570247637073_3508866763322294272_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1350" data-original-width="1080" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2cbcg2HS9GotfwlpgvSFYIdZMSKWTuZj278AJnw40LEFvpP7CbOStyKDiJIwtrXzKmrh1Pv-susLsVv-Qvp3DsntiOCwv4NUxikhuzpOCm5JN4Y3RcqzN3D2_TtuR2kYjylfREc5NoWs/s320/51091436_1891570247637073_3508866763322294272_o.jpg" width="256" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A hem with an accidental extra corner...</td></tr>
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I hemmed and hawed about hemming (hah!...sorry) the open portion of the sides, but in the end elected to just leave the selvage. As said in the seams section the bottom hems were done with a fairly wide double folded hem and hemstitching. You can see the mistake I made in cutting the shoulders way back in the beginning...I thought about it for a while, debated whether to trim the effected bit off to result in a shorter shirt, and ended up just leaving and hemming that bit. Nobody will see it, anyways, since I'm not in the habit of wandering around camp in just a shirt.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUw7avy7hzMfMoI9o8WuhjYgVgqoofBqRkog22DVa6jERAHxWS0G-PkYQZzCh27SO6dt0J_kjHoq655GW9QmamjTO6OcFVZpipAxu7fVCPTvLlnHHZt9-EfftXFyRMV9r-c_6zEVFb2VM/s1600/IMG_20190217_103558.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1197" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUw7avy7hzMfMoI9o8WuhjYgVgqoofBqRkog22DVa6jERAHxWS0G-PkYQZzCh27SO6dt0J_kjHoq655GW9QmamjTO6OcFVZpipAxu7fVCPTvLlnHHZt9-EfftXFyRMV9r-c_6zEVFb2VM/s400/IMG_20190217_103558.jpg" width="298" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Eyelets!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The final step was to determine how to fasten them. I thought about finger-weaving tapes and sewing them in place...but in the end I went with the old standby of eyelets. I also like to use eyelets because I can use the same tie to hold my ruffs on, fastening ruff and collar (likewise cuffs) as one unit. Mind, I usually seek help with getting dressed at that part...<br />
<br />
I used the 16/2 linen thread to sew the eyelets.<br />
<br />
<h4>
What I Learned: </h4>
Not a huge amount, that I can recall. There was a lot of just what is essentially just practicing my stitching. That said, I did have to do research on fitting the shirt (somehow missing something important, which I will discuss below), particularly the size of the cuffs and underarm gussets. Trying out and learning a bit of stitching subtlety in the collar was something which I absolutely loved. <br />
I made a mental connection that the poofiness of the shirt really helps fill out the shape of the doublet. Which may or may not be true.<br />
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<h4>
What I would do differently next time:</h4>
Not a whole lot when it comes to construction, although making a shirt with integral ruffles should be on my list. But for the elephant I've been tiptoeing around:<br />
Glancing through <i>Patterns of Fashion 4</i> while writing this post, I found that I probably used too much fabric in the body of the garment. As in, my widths were roughly twice what the period shirts have (and most adult shirts were made with a full width of of fine linen, at around 30"). I will have to crunch numbers to be sure--using garment width as a proportion of the collar measure--but even though I have a slightly larger than assumed collar size, I suspect that the proportions are way off.<br />
Back to the drawing board on that. I am consoled by the fact that when I asked about this on the Elizabethan Costuming page...I found I was not the only one who had made the "as much fabric as possible" assumption and come to the same realization.<br />
<br />
I might also be more careful when cutting the shoulder seams to prevent a mistake there... But it is more likely that my next shirt will be of a different pattern. I would also, if I run a line of topstitching along the top edge of the collar, use variable tension there as well to produce a slightly better curve since I'm not 100% happy with the collar.<br />
<br />
The final thing, which I just thought of, is I think the diagonal shoulder seam should be shortened by a fair amount. Even though it was maybe 5" on the cut side (and that particular shoulder measurement on me is roughly 6") it stretched enough that I have a couple inches of shoulder drop, causing the sleeves to be longer than I would like. The other option would be to include an on-grain reinforcing strip, as you see on 18th century shirts--not completely documentable, but practical, and the Sture shirt I patterned off of does have a supporting strip there...it's just bias cut for some reason.<br />
<br />
<h4>
Historical Accuracy:</h4>
Moderate? Construction and pattern are period (leaving aside the probable miscalculation of the body panels) materials are period--might be a bit heavier of a linen than typical, but lower class shirts might be made of heavier linens...sooo.... 85%?<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsaBEH9tqJ2TuHcjk6kIhEfKGVQIDB3B8jdXgCC-PVhBhk-pI2C8a-4zlk6EV3NvEdWKGJutIds1LpURe9e9_P2lFrWodtwoOwZwums02T4iH3UyW22nFpbh2qBDrNREf7ydGsW7sU0iQ/s1600/69227966_2195152033947834_117873659451801600_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="856" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsaBEH9tqJ2TuHcjk6kIhEfKGVQIDB3B8jdXgCC-PVhBhk-pI2C8a-4zlk6EV3NvEdWKGJutIds1LpURe9e9_P2lFrWodtwoOwZwums02T4iH3UyW22nFpbh2qBDrNREf7ydGsW7sU0iQ/s400/69227966_2195152033947834_117873659451801600_n.jpg" width="356" /></a></div>
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<h4>
Time: </h4>
Not a huge amount--I didn't actually hit the One Day mark on this project, even though it's handsewn and took forever to finish. 23 hours, 20 minutes, finished on 3-13.<br />
Going by a daily (modern) wage, I would be looking at around US $275-300 value.<br />
<br />
For period cost, going by some <a href="http://elizabethan.org/compendium/86.html" target="_blank">1588 wages</a> it looks like it would be 4d x3 days + value of linen. I used 3.5 yards (roughly) of 30 inch fabric.<br />
I spent a while trying to find prices for linen in Elizabethan England...and failed. I found it in Holland, but the conversion of guilders to pounds in 1570 was problematic. <i>The Tudor Tailor</i> has a price for holland cloth--roughly equivalent to my fabric--in 1535 as 3s 4d/ell. At 2.8 ells of linen, that is 9s 4p for the fabric. Three days wages come out to 1s, giving 10s/4p for the shirt--roughly 17 days wages. The <a href="http://www.nationalarchives.gov.uk/currency-converter/" target="_blank">National Archives Currency Convertor</a> puts that at just over 120L in 2017, or $146. Obviously, this isn't completely or even particularly accurate, and is mainly included for interest.<br />
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<h4>
Bibliography:</h4>
<i>Patterns of Fashion 4</i>, Janet Arnold. MacMillan, 2008. Pages 20, 68-69, primarily.<br />
<i>The Tudor Tailor.</i> Mikhaila, Ninya. Quite Specific Media, 2006 (re. 2015). Pp. 36<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">©
John Frey, 2019. The Author of this work retains full copyright for this
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permission notice are preserved on all copies.<br />The two photographs of <i>Patterns of Fashion 4</i> belong to the copyright holders of that book or image.</span></span></div>
Brann mac Finnchadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04614813862245766203noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2468874881802139741.post-37168480523375946322019-08-06T12:10:00.001-08:002019-08-06T14:01:48.545-08:00Party Pluderhose (and Chocolate doublet): The Overview and PhotoshootAbout fifteen months or sew ago, I decided I really wanted to make a pair of leather pluderhose. Something exaggerated, slightly shocking, but subdued in colours. Something which would be relatively comfortable, and suitable for both rapier combat, as well as the bardic and partying afterward. And for court, I suppose.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh890BLg9PXxLvU1U2WpCpn4_OLgT5ugTstfLZC8VTVrqiLEkjNgv_LlKUGTEVQAJkuWINPsEdp4Zfs5iJdWo2_XNJkz-Ct22ZgEuEGHZsY9xx53q9XuVT1Ghb9hqcQ0bs-WDLGTYJoEWI/s1600/DSCN0412.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh890BLg9PXxLvU1U2WpCpn4_OLgT5ugTstfLZC8VTVrqiLEkjNgv_LlKUGTEVQAJkuWINPsEdp4Zfs5iJdWo2_XNJkz-Ct22ZgEuEGHZsY9xx53q9XuVT1Ghb9hqcQ0bs-WDLGTYJoEWI/s640/DSCN0412.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
This is what I came up with.<br />
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<a name='more'></a><h4>
Materials:</h4>
I had two hides of dark brown leather from Uncle George's Leather shop (a discounted leather seller on FB), which was supposed to be deertanned cow. I rather doubt that, but it is heavy enough for fighting in, and supple enough for a garment.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWPGtkdhoVJD8-D_KBkoFJq3_9mm0jq02EPLAWrqHcX3h-2AtOBd0svWsRoQAGJqhqXVq29KrA46hzyXeNfsOul2YzuUb4gE-4hUYJyKfgh45DBLbHhub-i_wxudvR47U2BU6MDRqGhp8/s1600/IMG_20181012_143654.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1197" data-original-width="1600" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWPGtkdhoVJD8-D_KBkoFJq3_9mm0jq02EPLAWrqHcX3h-2AtOBd0svWsRoQAGJqhqXVq29KrA46hzyXeNfsOul2YzuUb4gE-4hUYJyKfgh45DBLbHhub-i_wxudvR47U2BU6MDRqGhp8/s400/IMG_20181012_143654.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
The poofs are in a silk canvas (yes...you read that right)--which is darn near knife proof--and was hand-dyed by yours truly. Which is why the colour isn't even. That silk was supposed to be for my <a href="https://matsukazesewing.blogspot.com/2017/03/plotting-next-major-projectanother.html" target="_blank">Hastings suit</a>, but since the dye didn't come out even (crease lines, mostly), I couldn't bring myself to use it for that...for the poofs of pluderhose, on the other hand, I could get away with it since the draping and pleats would help disguise the faults. This is also why the poofs aren't /quite/ as full as they probably should be--limited fabric.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrCFTiZb0JF5PROgtUDM45giYKkb8enKUDiOZqbpoXyxQpciRbAkWTPm_1MDC8q7hXg15HuZB-G8y_WhYKmfvALVuUVrp7KAHaRaWstbyqNdxpl5fPH9x7qzRNv52V-Xk_m9mq4aZdyOw/s1600/IMG_20180418_062127.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1197" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrCFTiZb0JF5PROgtUDM45giYKkb8enKUDiOZqbpoXyxQpciRbAkWTPm_1MDC8q7hXg15HuZB-G8y_WhYKmfvALVuUVrp7KAHaRaWstbyqNdxpl5fPH9x7qzRNv52V-Xk_m9mq4aZdyOw/s400/IMG_20180418_062127.jpg" width="298" /></a></div>
Additionally, this pair of pluderhose has lining shorts...in deerskin split. Same supplier as for the outer leather, and because it is the off side of the split, the thickness was extremely uneven and full of holes. Which meant I had to piece them and patch them; you can see one of the patched in the lower right of the above photo. Still, it was generally easy to sew with glover's needles.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLQLs0hgb-o01d4JGbw9aEqOL0HOh6SDD7ucY1I9XGt503oTSQJHGg-48LL5y2cVFyN83yV8SUkJuCV3Zb9XyPvGsGu5ERlN_3GfjxDH_f6vEJbUHRKaFwmXrV0hJ6MciLN3G2x0VZ7Zg/s1600/IMG_20180619_172257.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1197" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLQLs0hgb-o01d4JGbw9aEqOL0HOh6SDD7ucY1I9XGt503oTSQJHGg-48LL5y2cVFyN83yV8SUkJuCV3Zb9XyPvGsGu5ERlN_3GfjxDH_f6vEJbUHRKaFwmXrV0hJ6MciLN3G2x0VZ7Zg/s400/IMG_20180619_172257.jpg" width="298" /></a></div>
Finally, there is a bit of linen in there as well, in the pockets. I used whatever was heavy enough and was laying around. And a complimentary colour. I used the method outlined in <i><a href="https://www.vam.ac.uk/shop/17th-century-men-s-dress-patterns-146468.html" target="_blank">17th Century Men's Dress Patterns</a></i> for the Richard Cotton suit so the pockets are free hanging.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrJAR9Pm5J-bw9ZtDWN8_PXHGhq8ssos-BbV7r09aW4_IOPhm_FbJoZfZ4-L-RMNPGEEEFtVGwATb-HxYGWxESgM91i67ug6wYEue3Mu88nkBDvKBYOCU8mlKe6BP0-8vTU-b1klb4Vi4/s1600/IMG_20190619_163034.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1197" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrJAR9Pm5J-bw9ZtDWN8_PXHGhq8ssos-BbV7r09aW4_IOPhm_FbJoZfZ4-L-RMNPGEEEFtVGwATb-HxYGWxESgM91i67ug6wYEue3Mu88nkBDvKBYOCU8mlKe6BP0-8vTU-b1klb4Vi4/s400/IMG_20190619_163034.jpg" width="298" /></a></div>
The doublet was made of a delicious herringbone <a href="https://www.renaissancefabrics.net/product/wool-flannel-chocolate-brown/" target="_blank">Italian wool flannel</a> (link should be to the correct product) from Renaissance Fabrics, random light brown linen for lining, cotton canvas for canvassing, wool broadcloth (scraps from another project), and another random linen for interlining the body (which I later discovered I was saving that fabric..). It is trimmed with the same silk as the pluderhose, and the pewter buttons are replicas from the Tudor Tailor; you may recognize them, as they show up in <i>Patterns of Fashion 3</i>.<br />
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<h4>
Inspiration:</h4>
I'm not going to give full documentation on this post--that's not the point of this one--but I figure I'll go over a couple points and images I looked to. There was a fair amount of back documenting on this project because one of my requirements was that I wanted the pluderhose to be long enough I don't have to wear full thigh high stockings and can get by with tall modern socks if I want (part of making it friendly for late nights). While most examples of pluderhose stop just below the knee, there are a few images which don't. That said, in order to get the drape, most of the ones fastened below the knee are most likely longer...these guys just didn't bother fastening the cuffs.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4NyHKf0p7YJEOVKEaqdqo8NlsfuL6kvQuSdXWf_Rp3htNkFzUjAqM0XBBqKb6XU_7mvgZs5tFz6AgWyyIlhBIMPGVvCuqLYR4-JKw_S1KYSLgB_8XHj5r_XD0M749-vxxqPblU-K1G6U/s1600/Standard+Bearer.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="470" data-original-width="304" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4NyHKf0p7YJEOVKEaqdqo8NlsfuL6kvQuSdXWf_Rp3htNkFzUjAqM0XBBqKb6XU_7mvgZs5tFz6AgWyyIlhBIMPGVvCuqLYR4-JKw_S1KYSLgB_8XHj5r_XD0M749-vxxqPblU-K1G6U/s400/Standard+Bearer.jpg" width="257" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.britishmuseum.org/research/collection_online/collection_object_details.aspx?objectId=1595859&partId=1&people=107034&peoA=107034-2-60&page=1" target="_blank">Standard Bearer, 1560-85. British Museum #1952,0405.225</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The other issue was that--while I wouldn't mind a set of wams or doublet with the magnificently puffed sleeves...I didn't have the fabric for the trim, not if I was using the same green silk. As is, I barely had enough to bind the front, collar, and cuffs of the doublet.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBt7OyoEEE888xAVlgRHyl80CyLISaND4gqyBbBsQYiCqIvAC15LCgtP-fHyyjUHFuI-_Eie1VTAsck5b918UGzfKM46-Eon-YWLq5de2fSx5geVN1ihbVjMIeyNm9jHo1LPyLVeZlLTY/s1600/The_Butcher_and_his_Servant_drawn_and_engraved_by_J_Amman_Sixteenth_Century.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="465" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBt7OyoEEE888xAVlgRHyl80CyLISaND4gqyBbBsQYiCqIvAC15LCgtP-fHyyjUHFuI-_Eie1VTAsck5b918UGzfKM46-Eon-YWLq5de2fSx5geVN1ihbVjMIeyNm9jHo1LPyLVeZlLTY/s400/The_Butcher_and_his_Servant_drawn_and_engraved_by_J_Amman_Sixteenth_Century.png" width="310" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:The_Butcher_and_his_Servant_drawn_and_engraved_by_J_Amman_Sixteenth_Century.png" target="_blank">The Butcher and His Servant</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Happily I found /one/ image of a butcher wearing a lovely close fitting doublet (without shoulder wings, even!) with long pluderhose. I am in love with the slash-and-not-puff pattern of the all over trim...and am sad I didn't have enough fabric to try it. Maybe someday.<br />
And take a look at that documentation for the butt panels! I had to work surprisingly hard to find that.<br />
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<h4>
Patterns:</h4>
For the patterns, I used my own drafting and construction method for pluderhose (of course), which can be found <a href="https://matsukazesewing.blogspot.com/2018/04/bad-penny-pluderhose-drafting.html" target="_blank">on this blog</a>. I found I had to completely re-write the drafting method for the base shorts when I went to start this project...I think I went through 6-7 failed drafts before I began to figure it out. <br />
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The doublet is also drafted by my own method (not yet on the blog, as I am still looking for testers!), but most of the details and methods of construction came from <a href="https://themodernmaker.net/shop/the-modern-maker-vol-1-mens-doublets" target="_blank">The Modern Maker's first book</a>.<br />
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<h4>
The Photos!:</h4>
And now for the bit you actually want...photos of the outfit being worn. The photographs are by Travis Abe-Thomas (Blog: <a href="http://codextwobears.blogspot.com/" target="_blank">The Two Bears Codex</a>); standard copyright applies.<br />
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The site we were on is the location for the local Renfair...what I was using as a backdrop is used for storage, I believe.<br />
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...it has pockets! And my funnel neck beaker; this is a 16th century German style made custom for me by Mistress Anna Di Caterina Neri. The colour isn't period, but is what I wanted. Plenty of examples can be found on my<a href="https://www.pinterest.com/branmacfinnchad/late-period-ceramics-inspiration/" target="_blank"> late period ceramics</a> pinterest board.<br />
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So...this may require a bit of explanation. As tempted as I am to just let you wonder...Twobears remarked about how much the codpiece stuck out at certain angles. I was demonstrating that it is supposed to. <br />
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I would like to note that those buttons are not comfortable to do up; they are overly pokey and the false thread makes it difficult to fit through the buttonhole, since they catch. I suspect I will need help in order to button the doublet up the entire way.<br />
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Not sure what I was laughing at there. The Gryphon pin is not actually part of the outfit, but looks awesome and was a surprise gift right before the shoot.<br />
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Rear view of the doublet. Obviously.<br />
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Just walking away... <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgo6ffo4u21dLoAkziSWfor0EWBOgUnTTmpua-zEn1BGiJZwiWuegxK7xwJzEN8f4nZrdQJx4fhORf62iUzFWKoS_0tTrMhlbApqpQQdIRavGFsDe1P9nJhhcyxHDYHOMlBlq56Fr6PVSY/s1600/DSCN0431.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgo6ffo4u21dLoAkziSWfor0EWBOgUnTTmpua-zEn1BGiJZwiWuegxK7xwJzEN8f4nZrdQJx4fhORf62iUzFWKoS_0tTrMhlbApqpQQdIRavGFsDe1P9nJhhcyxHDYHOMlBlq56Fr6PVSY/s640/DSCN0431.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
To skip back through the tall weeds! I love how the panes and poofs move when I was doing that!<br />
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This outfit is by no means done...at the very least, I need weapons (I really want a halberd), some kind of knitted tall hat with feathers, and a matching leather cape. I also need to make a set of points; I have the brass ends now, so I just need to get cord and put them together. Prost!<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">©
John Frey, 2019. The Author of this work retains full copyright for this
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Brann mac Finnchadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04614813862245766203noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2468874881802139741.post-75254928539486988802019-08-02T17:17:00.001-08:002019-08-02T17:17:26.299-08:00A Pair of Transitional BraiesAlright! This project has been finished for well over a year, but I haven't actually worn it until recently. I also had not written any documentation on the subject--or any other projects in the last year or two, for that matter. I'm well out of practice in writing, and working from scanty notes and memory, so please bear with me.<br />
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<h4>
Introduction:</h4>
As I have been working on a 14th century outfit (slowly), and intend to venture into the early 15th century, I needed an actual set of braies instead of the wrapped loincloth style hypothosized over on the <a href="https://hibernaatio.blogspot.com/2014/04/nain-se-tehdaan-lannevaatteen.html" target="_blank">Hibernaatiopesäke blog</a>. While comfortable and of a period form, I didn't feel they would be appropriate for later in the 14th century, never mind the 15th. Therefore the first part project was to figure out what shape the braies would be, then make a pair which would work for a variety of outfits.<br />
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<h4>
Garment Description:</h4>
Braies of this period are essentially boxer briefs made in linen. Moderately close fitting, of uncomplicated design, and more functional than anything. While the earlier underwear was fairly loose fitting, by the 15th century it was (much) tighter and presumably more flattering for when you "accidentally" flash someone because your cottehardie only barely covers your bum. Or because as clothing got tighter, you wouldn't want the extra fabric of your underwear to ruin the lines of your cottehardy. Either/or (probably both, in reality).<br />
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<h4>
Sources:</h4>
I found the research for this decidedly problematic at first, since I was aiming for the 1370s--the same time period as my <a href="https://matsukazesewing.blogspot.com/2015/05/1370s-blue-cottehardie-hsm-april-war.html" target="_blank">blue cotte</a>. On the whole, there are not a whole lot of images showing underwear to begin with, narrowing it down to a decade is even harder (since most manuscripts don't /have/ a decade label). Once I managed to gather a few sources, I found that the style was inconclusive and it was apparently a transitional period, with both the loose, baggy style (which fit the loincloth wrap style) evident, and closer fitting ones also beginning to appear.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwLL2jbQ8SLiuYo0nGWGw4mx-_eF-AB7-Its4oPnovud6jDyKsq6GFb3tqe6GmJYJxItrfOarYZ2BBX5IT2C8kSp9AsL1qpJmD0ujbmh0d3uK4qUhKzyMCYTKzYryD1au4XPkGHcbToq0/s1600/Royal+6+E+VI+f.+214.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="691" data-original-width="695" height="318" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwLL2jbQ8SLiuYo0nGWGw4mx-_eF-AB7-Its4oPnovud6jDyKsq6GFb3tqe6GmJYJxItrfOarYZ2BBX5IT2C8kSp9AsL1qpJmD0ujbmh0d3uK4qUhKzyMCYTKzYryD1au4XPkGHcbToq0/s320/Royal+6+E+VI+f.+214.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.bl.uk/catalogues/illuminatedmanuscripts/ILLUMIN.ASP?Size=mid&IllID=32092" target="_blank">Royal 6 E VI. f. 214, Castigare</a><b><br /></b></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
As you can see in the above miniature from between 1360-1375 (England), the young boy is wearing the loose, wrapped style of braies. Which would make sense, as he is still growing (and presumably not rich, although well off). You might posit that children and lower class would be wearing the looser style of braies--it would be logical, after all. Except...<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEir5M-pur1h_e_JfAYCfPFN7_YXusQue_z65JcSQUxbgUQtcHTv88jE76Vn2zDGoQ4_KBNXh-Hg7324zlhyD3qcnf_N5ewS04c0myL22NEvL0umEq6GOGJNcoaZ0v0w1gHM-mas1VnMJbQ/s1600/Codex+Vindobonensis%252C+series+nova+2644+Le+Battage+de+l%2527org.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="438" data-original-width="246" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEir5M-pur1h_e_JfAYCfPFN7_YXusQue_z65JcSQUxbgUQtcHTv88jE76Vn2zDGoQ4_KBNXh-Hg7324zlhyD3qcnf_N5ewS04c0myL22NEvL0umEq6GOGJNcoaZ0v0w1gHM-mas1VnMJbQ/s320/Codex+Vindobonensis%252C+series+nova+2644+Le+Battage+de+l%2527org.jpg" width="178" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.photo.rmn.fr/archive/07-506165-2C6NU0CH4UJ0.html" target="_blank">Codex Vindobonensis, series nova 2644: Le Battage de l'orge</a><br />
National Library of Austria, Vienna</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
...you can clearly see the farmer in above wearing the boxer-briefs style of braies in this illumination from <i>Tacuinum sanitatis</i>, from the last few decades of the 14th century.<br />
<br />
<h4>
Goals:</h4>
In the end, I decided that for my 1370s outfit, I would stick with the wrapped style, especially as my inspirational images were middle class (if that), and that erring on the side of less fashionable would be the safer bet, and I would just make two pairs--a hemmed length of linen for the wrapped, and close fitting for later in the century. Obviously, this project is the later of the two.<br />
<br />
My goals were simply to make a pair of braies to support my hosen, and look correct when they accidentally show while wearing 14th century--given that the skirts are not particularly full, and while mine is almost knee length, it still does happen. A mental trick I used to get past the showing your underwear mental block is to consider them as being two part pants rather than true underwear.<br />
<br />
<h4>
Materials:</h4>
Universally, white linen. I used a fairly heavy linen--the 7.1oz from Fabric-Store.com--in order to help with the above mentioned mental thing of considering it outerwear, for modesty, and sturdiness. In period, the linen would have been a much finer fabric, although likely a considerably tighter weave as well; this would have helped it be softer on the skin.<br />
<br />
Threads used in this garment were all white linen as well. I do not remember for sure at this point what weights I used, but I suspect it was something like 30/2, and 60/2.<br />
<br />
<h4>
The Pattern:</h4>
While there are a number of patterns for close fitting braies out there--many of which consist of three rectangles such as this <a href="http://research.fibergeek.com/2011/06/21/quickdirty-braies/" target="_blank">example from Mistress Sylvie la chardonnière</a>--I did not feel that would give the close fit I was looking for. You also see some with a fairly large, diamond shaped gusset. This also does not give the look I was aiming at, as it create too many folds between the legs.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpaSRbrMLUMtJrD5Y1UDPtmnsUeco3UVO9ovnmEvL-1PV_S7CZfR-9rjwt1w3BUoECx1010WrtlzTPW_sDevRrR0V-8Pr0H7-Z5VAUdGUJXmhOb4MNC2vcR5hOklY_PntWJ28Hamr41QQ/s1600/Juan+Sa%25CC%2581nchez%252C+Calvario%252C+Front.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="126" data-original-width="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpaSRbrMLUMtJrD5Y1UDPtmnsUeco3UVO9ovnmEvL-1PV_S7CZfR-9rjwt1w3BUoECx1010WrtlzTPW_sDevRrR0V-8Pr0H7-Z5VAUdGUJXmhOb4MNC2vcR5hOklY_PntWJ28Hamr41QQ/s1600/Juan+Sa%25CC%2581nchez%252C+Calvario%252C+Front.png" /></a></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj03FB4ofxQvhuOCus5DvRZYC7BnCcaSXWQqHYe6uu3tFfmctMtTiAICE1eitXCggABPd0hpZX3mgsMDzGbMTkwuULiYP_2whhVZQD_Hi8Q6OGnuiY7O-LTWRTA83cjyJPvhTrO9SfmCsg/s1600/Juan+Sa%25CC%2581nchez%252C+Calvario%252C+Rear.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="170" data-original-width="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj03FB4ofxQvhuOCus5DvRZYC7BnCcaSXWQqHYe6uu3tFfmctMtTiAICE1eitXCggABPd0hpZX3mgsMDzGbMTkwuULiYP_2whhVZQD_Hi8Q6OGnuiY7O-LTWRTA83cjyJPvhTrO9SfmCsg/s1600/Juan+Sa%25CC%2581nchez%252C+Calvario%252C+Rear.png" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://galeriacaylus.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/08/del-gotico-al-neoclasico.pdf" target="_blank">Calvario; Painting by Pedro Sanchez I</a><br />
Second Half of the 15th century?</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
In the end, I decided that I would need to experiment and go (*gasp*) conjectural to get the results I wanted; relatively loose in the front for comfort, gusseted between the legs for movement, and closer fitting in the back, especially at the waist. You see above example clearly shows a diamond, or potentially an elongated hexagon. In some later examples you can see signs of some gathering at the center front--this won't work with a triangle, so I decided to combine the two; the gusset is a strip running from the waistband in the front with the triangular end finishing somewhere around mid-cheek in the rear.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEezkj5caD6TiYA5wT1JSZpQiXjhu4tlDM_970yEoOMUDRFi6FY_lIWTaAHEjqVq6F99U9s6SEsCSZMiAC99ecXc0TK5kosP0_07ip-M1ZfE1YWTaTb8qwqEwukkrC25Lsryhl9Da31aU/s1600/IMG_20180304_114805.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1197" data-original-width="1600" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEezkj5caD6TiYA5wT1JSZpQiXjhu4tlDM_970yEoOMUDRFi6FY_lIWTaAHEjqVq6F99U9s6SEsCSZMiAC99ecXc0TK5kosP0_07ip-M1ZfE1YWTaTb8qwqEwukkrC25Lsryhl9Da31aU/s320/IMG_20180304_114805.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
Measurements were relatively simple; the legs are two rectangles which would be trimmed down; I made them just long enough to go to the upper thigh and roughly 1/2 my hip measurement wide. I believe I made the gusset one handspan (3.5-4") wide, by approximately 3/4 my total rise in length. Once I could try them on, I brought in the inseam so it would be tightly fitted.<br />
<br />
<h4>
Seams:</h4>
I kept the seams simple; backstitched for strength, then flat felled (which is clearly visible in the Calvario painting). The separate belt casing at the waist was stab-stitched, as I was going through many layers, plus needed the strength.<br />
<br />
<h4>
Construction:</h4>
The steps of construction were quite simple. This is actually a problem--I made this over a year ago, don't have detailed photos, and because it was so simple, I didn't take notes. So the following may or may not actually be correct.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjPFsTJR-2QCMrLv4v_o1X5ZjiFfLIZqRLLmT_n2qQ2wTxB-V6IxXmecalDYCOzQ2KtDvbGg8IfEU-61ynEvQn4dzCW8T6zu6nUn5qUum8ElkyYEBJ40RfuwVpF6fXPg75ewAv3VvoskQ/s1600/IMG_20180304_140924.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1197" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjPFsTJR-2QCMrLv4v_o1X5ZjiFfLIZqRLLmT_n2qQ2wTxB-V6IxXmecalDYCOzQ2KtDvbGg8IfEU-61ynEvQn4dzCW8T6zu6nUn5qUum8ElkyYEBJ40RfuwVpF6fXPg75ewAv3VvoskQ/s320/IMG_20180304_140924.jpg" width="239" /></a></div>
Begin sewing the center gusset at the top, and stop at your front rise measure. Repeat on the other side.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbI2D1MebXdVIn_ynH20Sk3FxGmsHDdRr-TVlCN7C92a4is7vk8CJjdUDYRWwbDgg-9B5GQLsNPz_KjTN5IvL7uPlNZGJmCJn4BIGZyzE5G169UJXxniEyx3BMVLCJLQ2DqY6mG98Ysls/s1600/IMG_20180304_140955.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1197" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbI2D1MebXdVIn_ynH20Sk3FxGmsHDdRr-TVlCN7C92a4is7vk8CJjdUDYRWwbDgg-9B5GQLsNPz_KjTN5IvL7uPlNZGJmCJn4BIGZyzE5G169UJXxniEyx3BMVLCJLQ2DqY6mG98Ysls/s320/IMG_20180304_140955.jpg" width="239" /></a></div>
<br />
Then pin the leg pieces together at the inseam to find where the turning point was, and begin sewing from there, up to the end of the gusset. Then repeat on the other side, continuing to the top this time. <br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiodTk49c4P3q2MY-MLS05-2cDKyySm0xl2dH3X1lVtEqxQs3qPccKPRZ0giBxUuvED-N0Zjvcdhs5nItS_5ndNNMSVkOGAbKzBke7AiyHAcmIfWc9UuxTmSqXqCE4I7CQjr4NQonGSMA4/s1600/IMG_20180305_055546.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1197" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiodTk49c4P3q2MY-MLS05-2cDKyySm0xl2dH3X1lVtEqxQs3qPccKPRZ0giBxUuvED-N0Zjvcdhs5nItS_5ndNNMSVkOGAbKzBke7AiyHAcmIfWc9UuxTmSqXqCE4I7CQjr4NQonGSMA4/s320/IMG_20180305_055546.jpg" width="239" /></a></div>
At this point, I was able to bring in the bottom hem to fit correctly and sew down from the turning point of the gusset to the bottom hem.<br />
<br />
<br />
Fell the seams in whichever way works best for you, then hem the bottom.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEix68cwOF0xfwas9WNGJnnW_rfgmPlfUfZxpgw_tOfqlBbHKgGsKcvKf5CncEs-Af6yJ-iiAnwUVFVkoS3nYtPd9gtr1HYv2DNvIbVl3XXugMI3i0QF1CT82ecotL3T5z5DNfdhYUDSYKc/s1600/29351866_1489365504524218_8412636124700805842_o%25281%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="808" data-original-width="1080" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEix68cwOF0xfwas9WNGJnnW_rfgmPlfUfZxpgw_tOfqlBbHKgGsKcvKf5CncEs-Af6yJ-iiAnwUVFVkoS3nYtPd9gtr1HYv2DNvIbVl3XXugMI3i0QF1CT82ecotL3T5z5DNfdhYUDSYKc/s320/29351866_1489365504524218_8412636124700805842_o%25281%2529.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
The last step was installing a waistband, and pleating the front. Because there is some extra width from the gusset, that was dealt with via overlapping box pleats, and covered with the waistband. This didn't work as well as I would have liked--I will touch more on that below.<br />
<br />
<h4>
Conclusions and what I learned:</h4>
Going into this project, I knew it would be a pain to research...I didn't expect to end up in a transitional period and have to make choices, although I probably should have. Construction wise, it was quite straight-forwarded--just basic seams. I did find theorizing the fit to be both fun, and I was fairly correct--the end result was close fitting in the rear, and comfortable in the front*. When I wore them as part of my 14th century at June Crown, they worked quite well; that said, I do need to put eyelets in at the correct locations to tie my hosen up to my belt.<br />
<span style="color: #f6b26b;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">*Like a reverse mullet?</span></span><br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3JZrgS4_d5RWBqFPLk3QupagfL20nguN894YF58PdeQBB6iLw9yJPvunrYcN1NnmrOu7Vd8e5G9GiXKDRrIwuhKf4Ppsg9FRCt8P05y7yc3NVnmen-kzuffKEJt6BToHFESf01KmM45Y/s1600/28827571_1489365561190879_1502116931553149999_o%25281%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="807" data-original-width="1080" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3JZrgS4_d5RWBqFPLk3QupagfL20nguN894YF58PdeQBB6iLw9yJPvunrYcN1NnmrOu7Vd8e5G9GiXKDRrIwuhKf4Ppsg9FRCt8P05y7yc3NVnmen-kzuffKEJt6BToHFESf01KmM45Y/s320/28827571_1489365561190879_1502116931553149999_o%25281%2529.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<h4>
What I would do differently:</h4>
I probably will end up having to make another pair of these eventually, so:<br />
<ol>
<li>Give myself plenty of extra fabric at the top--at the front and back they are barely long enough to hold my belt.</li>
<li>Use a drawstring cord instead of a belt. Instead of pleating the front pouch, I would make a bunch of eyelets there and run the drawstring through those; I've seen several examples ( later) which show a cord tied there, and I think it would give a cleaner finish.</li>
<li>Make sure I don't make the thighs too tight--I did this time, but have lost a little bit off my thighs, and haven't added it back in muscle (yet).</li>
<li>Try to figure out how to reinforce where the three seams meet between the legs. It is a weak point.</li>
</ol>
<br />
<h4>
How HA is the project?:</h4>
Moderately. Due to using a conjectural pattern, and heavier linen, it is slightly less so than I would prefer. How about a mostly random 80%?<br />
<br />
<h4>
Time:</h4>
As you might expect, it was a quick project, even if I did handsew it. Only 6:30 hours.<br />
<br />
<h4>
Bibliography:</h4>
<div class="csl-bib-body" style="line-height: 1.35; margin-left: 2em; text-indent: -2em;">
<div class="csl-entry" style="margin-bottom: 1em;">
‘Del Gotico Al Neoclasicismo’ <<a href="https://galeriacaylus.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/08/del-gotico-al-neoclasico.pdf" target="_blank">https://galeriacaylus.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/08/del-gotico-al-neoclasico.pdf</a>> [accessed 2 August 2019] (Page 20, Pedro Sanchez I painting)</div>
<span class="Z3988" title="url_ver=Z39.88-2004&ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fzotero.org%3A2&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Adc&rft.type=attachment&rft.title=Del%20Gotico%20al%20Neoclasicismo&rft.identifier=https%3A%2F%2Fgaleriacaylus.com%2Fwp-content%2Fuploads%2F2017%2F08%2Fdel-gotico-al-neoclasico.pdf"></span>
<br />
<div class="csl-entry" style="margin-bottom: 1em;">
‘Quick&Dirty Braies (Well, Ok. Not -Dirty- but You Know What I Mean) – Research Dumping Grounds’ <<a href="http://research.fibergeek.com/2011/06/21/quickdirty-braies/" target="_blank">http://research.fibergeek.com/2011/06/21/quickdirty-braies/</a>> [accessed 2 August 2019]</div>
<span class="Z3988" title="url_ver=Z39.88-2004&ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fzotero.org%3A2&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Adc&rft.type=blogPost&rft.title=Quick%26Dirty%20Braies%20(well%2C%20ok.%20Not%20-dirty-%20but%20you%20know%20what%20I%20mean)%20%E2%80%93%20Research%20Dumping%20Grounds&rft.identifier=http%3A%2F%2Fresearch.fibergeek.com%2F2011%2F06%2F21%2Fquickdirty-braies%2F&rft.language=en-US"></span>
<br />
<div class="csl-entry" style="margin-bottom: 1em;">
‘Réunion Des Musées Nationaux-Grand Palais -’ <<a href="https://www.photo.rmn.fr/archive/07-506165-2C6NU0CH4UJ0.html" target="_blank">https://www.photo.rmn.fr/archive/07-506165-2C6NU0CH4UJ0.html</a>> [accessed 2 August 2019]</div>
<span class="Z3988" title="url_ver=Z39.88-2004&ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fzotero.org%3A2&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Adc&rft.type=webpage&rft.title=R%C3%A9union%20des%20Mus%C3%A9es%20Nationaux-Grand%20Palais%20-&rft.identifier=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.photo.rmn.fr%2Farchive%2F07-506165-2C6NU0CH4UJ0.html"></span>
<br />
<div class="csl-entry">
Wight, C., ‘Image of an Item from the British Library Catalogue of Illuminated Manuscripts’ <<a href="http://www.bl.uk/catalogues/illuminatedmanuscripts/ILLUMIN.ASP?Size=mid&IllID=32092" target="_blank">http://www.bl.uk/catalogues/illuminatedmanuscripts/ILLUMIN.ASP?Size=mid&IllID=32092</a>> [accessed 2 August 2019]</div>
<span class="Z3988" title="url_ver=Z39.88-2004&ctx_ver=Z39.88-2004&rfr_id=info%3Asid%2Fzotero.org%3A2&rft_val_fmt=info%3Aofi%2Ffmt%3Akev%3Amtx%3Adc&rft.type=webpage&rft.title=Image%20of%20an%20item%20from%20the%20British%20Library%20Catalogue%20of%20Illuminated%20Manuscripts&rft.description=This%20page%20describes%20and%20shows%20an%20image%20of%20an%20item%20in%20the%20Catalogue%20of%20Illuminated%20Manuscripts&rft.identifier=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.bl.uk%2Fcatalogues%2Filluminatedmanuscripts%2FILLUMIN.ASP%3FSize%3Dmid%26IllID%3D32092&rft.aufirst=C.&rft.aulast=Wight&rft.au=C.%20Wight&rft.language=eng"></span>
</div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">©
John Frey, 2019. The Author of this work retains full copyright for this
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Brann mac Finnchadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04614813862245766203noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2468874881802139741.post-70677765346879358682019-05-06T04:00:00.000-08:002019-05-06T04:00:05.418-08:00Norfolk Jacket Pockets: A (Brief) Tutorial<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
When I decided to go from the planned patch pockets on my current jacket project, to ones which were hidden under the decorative pleats of a Norfolk jacket...I had to figure out how to do so, and figure it wouldn't hurt to share here how I did it.</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJ6IoXUUcdf_3UifpbQPV_RZl4KGQeGOswHvZAyVfMOl2dQwUlvvE-crNaidUIDg-aboNPLcVE8tcUHXMy6HFY8nnRIaGA1WOTQB0tOgSXQKN3dTxVnO42vXWOXXC4HxfI6i0axqCoW8U/s1600/Cutters+Guide%252C+plate+15.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="816" data-original-width="624" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJ6IoXUUcdf_3UifpbQPV_RZl4KGQeGOswHvZAyVfMOl2dQwUlvvE-crNaidUIDg-aboNPLcVE8tcUHXMy6HFY8nnRIaGA1WOTQB0tOgSXQKN3dTxVnO42vXWOXXC4HxfI6i0axqCoW8U/s320/Cutters+Guide%252C+plate+15.jpg" width="244" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Cutter's Practical Guide to Jacket Cutting & Making:<br />
Lounges, Reefers, and Patrol Jackets. by W.D.F. Vincent, 1890s<br />
Page 35, Plate 15</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<a name='more'></a>While the pleats of a Norfolk jacket sometimes were true pleats, built into the pattern (seen on yoked ones in particular)...by the 1890s it wasn't uncommon for them to be made of a separate strip of self fabric, folded under and applied. Which as you can see on the cyclist above, gives a lovely opportunity for pockets.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZQsAB2SLtFYmVQOYUzwAu-a9SNKsvsuHfDXjiN890HzTGYECqr5pW9WG_kmFkqaMDN55JmSmFMf0CGzv1AiIUEAv95YFenq7siiu2OoMmYH-10xc6kMqf3OU3_6aPZcSLSAzhzRH6UUE/s1600/57882441_2004120203048743_7703455794531926016_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1350" data-original-width="1080" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZQsAB2SLtFYmVQOYUzwAu-a9SNKsvsuHfDXjiN890HzTGYECqr5pW9WG_kmFkqaMDN55JmSmFMf0CGzv1AiIUEAv95YFenq7siiu2OoMmYH-10xc6kMqf3OU3_6aPZcSLSAzhzRH6UUE/s320/57882441_2004120203048743_7703455794531926016_o.jpg" width="256" /></a></div>
Start by marking out where you want the pleat trim to go on your fashion fabric. Unfold the trim towards the outside of the pocket (opposite of the opening), making sure it doesn't shift on you. I recommend pinning or basting the spot as well.<br /><br />Mark your vertical pocket opening. Sew one side of your pocketing to the fashion fabric as above, leaving a seam allowance above the pocket opening. This will be the outside layer of the pocket. It would not hurt to sew the pleat trim opposite of this portion of the pocket, but isn't necessary.<br /><br />The other side of the pocketing will be sewn to the opposite side of the pleat for the same distance.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjF9ZvsslzNIC2RH9HbLRmMo5KTOTDk8uaf9Ejuk0vBwqqwNj0QT5i7bsc38C5L4Pwa5sLVx68L8dnXv_pF0J95pPBp9NLcitQ2aKBUoFu7sWe4u47wJ9vTNuhAQTi_qeEpgFndUxdcpA/s1600/57504717_2004120259715404_4016357526332243968_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1350" data-original-width="1080" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjF9ZvsslzNIC2RH9HbLRmMo5KTOTDk8uaf9Ejuk0vBwqqwNj0QT5i7bsc38C5L4Pwa5sLVx68L8dnXv_pF0J95pPBp9NLcitQ2aKBUoFu7sWe4u47wJ9vTNuhAQTi_qeEpgFndUxdcpA/s320/57504717_2004120259715404_4016357526332243968_o.jpg" width="256" /></a></div>
Cut through your fashion fabric along your marked line. About 1/2cm from the end, flare the cut into a V shape towards the end of the stitching. This neatens the edges when you pull the pocketing through.<br />
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Pull the pocketing through to the wrong side and press lightly.<br />
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At this point, you want to sew the outside of the trim pleat down. Do not sew through the pocket material.<br />
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Once that is done, you will shift the pocketing to its final place, press, bar tack the ends of the pocket opening (making sure to include the little triangle of fashion fabric), and sew the pocket pieces together.<br />
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The last step is to mark the pocket opening on the pleat trim. /Without/ sewing it to to the fabric body, top-stitch the pleating in this location. Then finish sewing the pleat-trim through all layers along the rest of its length, leaving the pocket opening open, as you see.<br /><br />You may also want to bar tack the pleat opening by hand from the wrong side to reinforce the stitching there, but I have not yet done so.<br /><br />Hopefully the tutorial helped you figure out how to assemble this particular style of pocket!</div>
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<span style="font-size: xx-small;"><span style="font-family: "Baskerville Old Face","serif";">©
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Brann mac Finnchadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04614813862245766203noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2468874881802139741.post-19659807026434547462019-04-30T15:36:00.001-08:002019-04-30T15:39:30.856-08:00A Jacket for Cycling, A Project Journal for AprilA couple of weeks ago, at around 10pm, I got a wild hair to start on a new project...I could feel cold and wet in the air (we got 4-5 inches of wet snow that night), so I had a rain jacket on the brain. Again. I do every time it rains, go look at commercial examples and discard them because they don't meet my standards of fit and durability--as well as invariably having hoods, which I detest wearing.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9_Q36hyphenhyphenbGhwuT9meLEdHMV-q9TiQIBA_g8TfbCn6GVdXwIU0wBA2T3TPMzZGPHHa0xkMAhsLhClMSMJYoDcQVD35oX_a_jRJ2zaaDdMwm25zHTrGbuLWisDdp91M7qgHeM4g4_nQ-IL8/s1600/59519767_2016722568455173_4772923883902730240_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1215" data-original-width="1080" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9_Q36hyphenhyphenbGhwuT9meLEdHMV-q9TiQIBA_g8TfbCn6GVdXwIU0wBA2T3TPMzZGPHHa0xkMAhsLhClMSMJYoDcQVD35oX_a_jRJ2zaaDdMwm25zHTrGbuLWisDdp91M7qgHeM4g4_nQ-IL8/s320/59519767_2016722568455173_4772923883902730240_o.jpg" width="284" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Taken this very morning, in fact, as I double checked the sleeve fit.</td></tr>
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So, I went out, found a few yards of medium brown bull denim, and off white wool in my stash--both of which were from the thrift store--and started drafting, first on paper. Just a rough sketch of the design idea and proportions.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwIYtOaueIvPgLQJocVTx12ttskhn-_uwjWYNpHouy-l-PbCfTsGhFXMx0EGptqGZDYZug_gQCH6RqgQx2pvE1tY8YVPKiH0NJKyJWlOiWWcIU5cdMhCvLF9Hiumw0Ivq3-ZfeAHluchs/s1600/57155231_1997031820424248_6376958757229821952_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1350" data-original-width="1080" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwIYtOaueIvPgLQJocVTx12ttskhn-_uwjWYNpHouy-l-PbCfTsGhFXMx0EGptqGZDYZug_gQCH6RqgQx2pvE1tY8YVPKiH0NJKyJWlOiWWcIU5cdMhCvLF9Hiumw0Ivq3-ZfeAHluchs/s320/57155231_1997031820424248_6376958757229821952_o.jpg" width="256" /></a></div>
Because I typically leave my computer at my work to prevent the risk of damaging it while commuting by bike, I had to do my drafting freehand, from memory. Normally I will go off of one of the various Victorian drafting manuals I have saved. <br />
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I quickly took the pertinent measurements (chest, waist, hip, verticals thereof, overall to hem, neck, overshoulder) and plugged them into my completely not to scale pattern. Originally, I had planned to go with something along the lines of my <a href="https://matsukazesewing.blogspot.com/2016/07/1860s-sailors-topcoat-travel-challenge.html" target="_blank">Sailor's Topcoat</a>, with a separated sidebody, and the skirts grown on to the front body. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfg0EqTQ7V4Wli8NGzwI4654mEvEU6cvu6S8td84r2l9XUb-sHR5KQlvwr2foMQATvke44JktQyQzxU-IpNg2ajfQ5R-Z9JWid598XylTvxVYgmPlVL1Ei71uu2rlAoVh36fUVTbi5ozA/s1600/57210677_1997047120422718_7130508188037677056_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1350" data-original-width="1080" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfg0EqTQ7V4Wli8NGzwI4654mEvEU6cvu6S8td84r2l9XUb-sHR5KQlvwr2foMQATvke44JktQyQzxU-IpNg2ajfQ5R-Z9JWid598XylTvxVYgmPlVL1Ei71uu2rlAoVh36fUVTbi5ozA/s320/57210677_1997047120422718_7130508188037677056_o.jpg" width="256" /></a></div>
Once I had it sketched out on paper, it didn't take long to draft up at full scale. I wasn't letting myself overthink on this project, which is something I am terrible about doing. Overthinking in sewing can have advantages--you've done everything multiple times mentally before even starting, but it can also hold you back as you are expecting perfection before you ever make the mistake.<br />
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In sewing it together, I decided to not cut the sidebody free, as I figured just sewing the fish would get me close enough to check the fit. Happily, the body fit quite well right away, although I had to take a little out of the point of the shoulder--I usually do, as I don't have the right shoulder slope measurement in my head.<br />
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At that point, I decided it would be based on slightly later Sac coats (1880s or so, compared with 1860s), with no sidebody, and a dart where the side seam used to be. However, the back is narrower than the modern drafts for suit jackets, something I prefer. And since this is not a historical piece...I can do what I want!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxfdY1VU4wjY8F69xg5lCKMe6xVomMGSBCJoZIdPXNNtYISAdr8noLm0YtHJSl_DGTMlDbxCrOYB5OQPiyG6YOyWJzOPtdSZibOVU6F_YoPnuYJR51tSFpypGLzgxQvxxLdUopEIIz_zE/s1600/57109937_1997208317073265_6469651143684259840_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1350" data-original-width="1080" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxfdY1VU4wjY8F69xg5lCKMe6xVomMGSBCJoZIdPXNNtYISAdr8noLm0YtHJSl_DGTMlDbxCrOYB5OQPiyG6YOyWJzOPtdSZibOVU6F_YoPnuYJR51tSFpypGLzgxQvxxLdUopEIIz_zE/s320/57109937_1997208317073265_6469651143684259840_o.jpg" width="256" /></a></div>
I quickly transferred it to the denim, adding in the vent overlap--English style double vent, of course. It seemed like the best option to help protect my backside from splashes. The skirts were angled and given a slight convex curve as well.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVFlarAIBiPsu9hjlJQnoaqTFVdPLeI8oOMaEFFcu-qZpcTd0oOq4tmTYMvk2s6OCBq6Zn6nT9cB3z7YN6ZcXd1xN1Ve7r41WJn6mmK6v9jAz8MrWdEfPiCQ4W3JzAjxmyqTBmDypnzQE/s1600/57674173_1997208270406603_5924040797870620672_o%25281%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1350" data-original-width="1080" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVFlarAIBiPsu9hjlJQnoaqTFVdPLeI8oOMaEFFcu-qZpcTd0oOq4tmTYMvk2s6OCBq6Zn6nT9cB3z7YN6ZcXd1xN1Ve7r41WJn6mmK6v9jAz8MrWdEfPiCQ4W3JzAjxmyqTBmDypnzQE/s320/57674173_1997208270406603_5924040797870620672_o%25281%2529.jpg" width="256" /></a></div>
As well as the breast and front patch pockets marked on the front, because this /is/ for cycling--which means I can't make much use of the front pockets while on the bike, since stuff will get in the way--I added a poachers pocket in the rear. I have no idea if this is how historical poachers pockets were done--I know they existed, but when I went and did some research on the topic a few years ago I did not find much information.<br />
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I decided to make the back in two pieces, overlapping about one to two fists above waist level. The highly scientific method used to decide was based on "do I think I can comfortably reach into there?".<br />
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Just for a bit of flare and colour, I took scraps of scarlet flannel which I had laying about, and decided to use that for facings.<br />
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After pondering it for a day or two...I decided to alter the pattern yet again, with swing vents in the back similar to Norfolk jackets--the primary sporting jacket of English rich dudes. Lots of pockets, ease of movement, and usually made of tweed. Because I did not plan for it, the pleats are not integral, but were pieced together. The piping isn't for decoration...it's reflective for safety and having it on there was a major reason I decided to include the applied pleats.<br />
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On the whole, I am happy to stay that the reflective material was not difficult to work with--no moreso than any other fabric, and certainly easier than most knits! I had bought it as a 20 meter piece from Amazon a couple of months ago, when I first started thinking about making myself cycling specific clothing. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhk4q1Gcm22jzGIB2nSJfOHyrD26ogdqh1dg82EJ407x8TCENkMkognwAAUfxgOkz2dnh0q_ac2ym-be7pdK1t5k-hnPusqwoEyHiAseTic99uOfejtKWxocJGoRYOK8hNlGpQTUDh8w7I/s1600/57583237_2001564786637618_1389141458891571200_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1350" data-original-width="1080" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhk4q1Gcm22jzGIB2nSJfOHyrD26ogdqh1dg82EJ407x8TCENkMkognwAAUfxgOkz2dnh0q_ac2ym-be7pdK1t5k-hnPusqwoEyHiAseTic99uOfejtKWxocJGoRYOK8hNlGpQTUDh8w7I/s320/57583237_2001564786637618_1389141458891571200_o.jpg" width="256" /></a></div>
Each length of the pleat/trim consisted of a wide piece, and two pieces half the width, sewn together with the piping in between. This was rather a pain, I would like to note; I need a piping/zipper foot in my sewing box. But I got it done, pressed--happily the reflective piping did not melt--and installed. Which you can see meant I had to cut my nice jacket back into pieces...<br />
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Obviously, this photo was the step before the previous one, but the words flowed better this way.<br />
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The following step was to install front pockets. Changing my plan yet again, I moved from patch pockets to hidden ones underneath the piping. Much more work, especially since I didn't know how to assemble this style, but giving a much cleaner appearance as well. I will cover how the pockets went together in another, short, blog post. They are designed for cross opening, and are fairly spacious. Pocketting material was whatever I had laying around which was relatively sturdy (some blue/white cotton Oxford shirting)--my usual method for choosing pocket material, to be honest.<br />
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And proof that the piping works, since this was taken with flash.<br />
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I have actually be fairly busy this month; I also finished up my first pair of front fall breeches (details to be in yet another blog post). They were self drafted off of a pair in Waughs Cut of Men's Clothing, if I remember correctly, and also fit fairly well. Comfort-wise, they are fairly good! I really need to make myself a pair of braces to hold them up, though.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRtQhlPhiijCY5w3FsEnjj42zWiCu9_7pjjhoSs3JY-2umpUEHy2-CRYgRK_QLfOWkJN6sak-wlBxGGov2LHll5gd36ZcwVE2Q8S9s58XtsyYqmLn7hGv5rE0dTMQkFWYFP5hV9Th3HyQ/s1600/German+woodcut+with+cape.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="584" data-original-width="938" height="248" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRtQhlPhiijCY5w3FsEnjj42zWiCu9_7pjjhoSs3JY-2umpUEHy2-CRYgRK_QLfOWkJN6sak-wlBxGGov2LHll5gd36ZcwVE2Q8S9s58XtsyYqmLn7hGv5rE0dTMQkFWYFP5hV9Th3HyQ/s400/German+woodcut+with+cape.png" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">An Officer of the Rank of 'Oberster Feldprofoss' in the Imperial Army<br />
Jost Amman, 1556. <a href="http://www.getty.edu/art/collection/objects/274/jost-amman-an-officer-of-the-rank-of-'oberster-feldprofoss'-in-the-imperial-army-swiss-1556/" target="_blank">Object #89.GA.15 Getty Museum</a>.</td></tr>
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I also /finally/ finished the Pluderhosen I have been plugging away at for the last year! They were a fairly major project, and all this time I have managed to keep the details of what they look like a secret, even from my closest friends. A couple of people know, from my brainstorming, but they are being bribed with homemade alcohol to keep quiet.<br />
Suffice it to say that it was a major pain in the butt and hands, and actual sewing time hit the 3 day mark, and then some--78 hours of work time, not including all the time drafting and grumbling. Now I just need to finish the doublet which goes with it! And possibly a cape. I really want one of those capes you see in some German Woodcuts.... (such as the one above)<span id="goog_1781862678"></span><span id="goog_1781862679"></span><br />
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I've actually been finishing up projects left and right in the last month even though I haven't been posting on my blog; I've been knitting at work as well, and made a couple of hats from <a href="https://www.ravelry.com/stores/sally-pointer-designs" target="_blank">Sally Pointer patterns</a> (link to her Ravelry shop, and I have no affiliation other than satisfied customer) in the last couple of months; a thrum hat for a friend's birthday gift, and the above pictured 15th century Scholar's cap, which still needs to be fulled. It has issues, but should work for its intended purpose (to go with the "wizard's robe" I sometimes wear for parties, D&D sessions, and reading at home)--if I ever decide to make a period outfit which requires one, I'll make a new hat to go with.<br />
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<span style="color: #999999;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;"><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">©
John Frey, 2019. The Author of this work retains full copyright for this
material.
Permission is granted to make and distribute verbatim copies of this
document
for non-commercial private research or educational purposes provided the
copyright notice and this permission notice are preserved on all copies.</span></span></span>Brann mac Finnchadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04614813862245766203noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2468874881802139741.post-42566920551087539332019-04-10T12:26:00.000-08:002019-04-10T12:26:09.296-08:00Bliaut from the Cîteaux Moralia in Job Manuscript: Figuring the DesignI've been thinking about making a new bliaut for a number of years now, and as I have finally reduced the number of active projects down to a more reasonable number (I can count them on one hand!) it is clearly time to add more. And as I want something straightforwards to sew instead of the ridiculously complicated projects which have been my lot for the last year, as well as have yardage brown silk/wool blend I set aside for a bliaut some years ago...a bliaut--basically a tunic--sounds like a good plan.<br />
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Naturally, I can't simply do things anymore, and just begin construction. I had to do some research and find a piece of inspiration first. Document the colour brown being used for bliauts--at least in illuminations--, what colours it might be combined with in the hosen, and just refresh my memory on what it looks like since it has been a good 5 years since I last looked into the garment and I had some...interesting...thoughts on the patterning back then.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8iTYTfzpaQbqpOsLcQdtK3SrcNsjJva_20FQCeVB0QVzY6oC06N3LOpYmXWXlIwnh4ZrIZtcQ6Cee0YJ-TsrybUrM5X5oycKp-cUgkHXyDrpvlk_YyILTnmTPL-ZqMN3GH3YS_aaZ_zg/s1600/Moralia_in_Job_MS_dragonslayer+4v.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="914" data-original-width="669" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8iTYTfzpaQbqpOsLcQdtK3SrcNsjJva_20FQCeVB0QVzY6oC06N3LOpYmXWXlIwnh4ZrIZtcQ6Cee0YJ-TsrybUrM5X5oycKp-cUgkHXyDrpvlk_YyILTnmTPL-ZqMN3GH3YS_aaZ_zg/s400/Moralia_in_Job_MS_dragonslayer+4v.jpg" width="292" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/C%C3%AEteaux_Moralia_in_Job#/media/File:Moralia_in_Job_MS_dragonslayer.jpg" target="_blank"><span class="mw-mmv-title"><i>Moralia in Job</i>; Dijon, Bibliothèque municipale, ms 168:4v</span></a></td></tr>
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<a name='more'></a>Eventually, I was struck by a well known illumination in a copy of Gregory the Great's <i>Moralia in Job</i>, the Cîteaux copy, residing in the Dijon bibliotech. The one above.<br />
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Not only is it close to the right colour, but the figure resembles me to the point that the comment when I showed it to a friend was "Holy Crap, it's you!". So, yeah...that pretty much cemented it. It also has the sleeves I rather like; while men's bliauts usually do not have pendulous sleeves as the lady's version does, they do show up on occasion as in this example--and that is one of the things which makes it a /bliaut/ to my mind, rather than simply a tunic. There's a few interesting things going on with it as well, making it unusual, but not completely weird (it's not Spanish, after all).<br />
<br />
In addition to this individual garment, I will be comparing it with the few other male garments found in the same manuscript, as well as a couple of contemporary ones. Sadly, the Cîteaux copy of <i>Moralia in Job</i> is not available online, so I am limited to only a few of the illuminations...although, the copy of the second volume (<a href="https://www.bl.uk/collection-items/st-gregory-the-great-moralia-in-job" target="_blank">in the British Library</a>) I have gone through doesn't have all that many illuminations--the primary copy may not either. <br />
<br />
I will start off with a description of the original inspiration--the Dragon-slayer--, then go through the various other examples in a bit less detail, before summarizing the similarities (and differences). I will cover how I am interpreting my findings to create a pattern in a second post.<br />
<br />
<br />
<h3>
Bliauts in General:</h3>
While some my readers may know what a bliaut is, I do know many of you focus more on later period, tailored, clothing--as have I for the last few years. The bliaut (an Old French word, and don't ask me to pronounce it) is the primary garment for much of the 12th century in Western Europe, with variations being worn in France, England, Germany, Sweden, and most other countries. It is, at heart, a geometrically cut tunic...but with the beginnings of conspicuous consumption showing up in the closely fitted cut.<br />
<br />
<ul>
<li>The body was typically closely fitted in both male and female versions. Some areas--Germany in particular, it seams--preferred a looser fit, as would lower class.</li>
<li>Sleeves were closely fitted at the upper arm, and may or may not have had a variety of pendulous sleeves. Sleeve shape was dependent on region, with men's garments usually having plain sleeves.</li>
<li>Skirts were fairly full, and sometimes may have been pleated. We are not talking about full circle skirts, however.</li>
<li>Based on the drape of the garment, the fabric was fine, and may have been silk. Examples of patterned fabrics do show up. </li>
<li>Keyhole necklines--sometimes quite deep ones--seem to have been the most common, but round also shows up.</li>
<li>Trim is seen around the neckline, and the upper arm--where it is commonly supposed a seam is. It may also show up at the cuff, hem, and possibly waist.</li>
</ul>
For more in depth reading on the general style, take a read through <a href="https://www.eg.bucknell.edu/~lwittie/sca/garb/europe_class/europe_bliaut.html" target="_blank">The Bliaut throughout 12th Century Europe</a>. And for counter arguments on a number of misconceptions applied to the garment, go here: <a href="https://housewildrose.weebly.com/the-bliaut-revisited.html" target="_blank">The Bliaut Revisited</a>.<br />
<br />
<br />
<h4>
The Frontispiece:</h4>
As you can see, the bloke slaying a dragon is wearing a bliaut in an orange-ish-brown. Almost like a yellow russet. Of course, it is an illumination, and a fairly early one--it cannot be taken as full documentation that it was a colour available and worn; to do that, you need to go into the dyeing of the period. As I am making it with a stash fabric, that is of less concern to me--fully documenting the colour will come later, if I choose to do so.<br />
<br />
Sleeves are tight to the upper arm and begin to flare dramatically from
the elbow, draping in a complex fashion. Even though the garment drapes
beautifully, like a fairly lightweight fabric, the inside of both the
sleeves and skirts show as a different colour, almost a fleshy peach.
Whether this is realistic or purely artistic is hard to say. <br />
<br />
Neckline is a modest keyhole, with trim an estimated two fingers wide surrounding it. There is matching wider trim around the bicep, and another row a bit above the bottom hem, which is nearly ankle length. Unusually, there is a chevron shaped piece of trim roughly even with the bottom of his ribcage.<br />
<br />
The body of garment is closely fitted as per the style, and appears to be extra long. While some of the lady's versions appear to have horizontal wrinkles across the belly, which have been interpreted as rucking produced by side lacing and pulling it up, I see blousing on the men's versions. Which would also be produced by having a longer than needed torso measure, then blousing it over a belt, which results in the belt being hidden.<br />
<br />
The skirts are obviously split to the upper thigh (at least) on at least one side. Based on other garments in the manuscript, I suspect it is on both sides. The folds of the skirts are interesting, showing the folds running all the way up under the blousing at the waist, but not evenly all the way around.<br />
<br />
At his waist, there appears to be...something. It is definitely wider in the back than in the front, where it is tied in a simple knot. For simplicity, I will call it a girdle. <br />
<br />
Underneath the bliaut, we can see closely fitted hosen in a lovely shade of sky blue, and at his wrists another undergarment in blue. Curiously, there are horizontal lines worked there; while I have seen this interpreted as meaning that it is quilted, I believe the undertunic simply has extra long, close fitting sleeves which are pushed up. They additionally have a bit of narrow trim at the cuff. Unfortunately, I cannot see any sign of the skirts of the undergarment...I suspect they are of the same cut as the bliaut, albeit possibly shorter.<br />
<br />
Shoes are extremely pointed, and are open topped. They appear to be a nice burgundy in colour.<br />
<br />
<h4>
Onwards to the Other Bliauts:</h4>
In order to verify that the chosen bliaut is in line with fashion--or at least artists' interpretations thereof--I need to go through can analyze the elements of the garments from comparable sources; both the same book, and others from roughly the same time and place. <br />
<br />
The following are from the Cîteaux copy of <i>Moralia in Job</i>, residing in Dijon, France. <br />
<a href="http://initiale.irht.cnrs.fr/codex/1851" target="_blank"><span title="Ville">Dijon</span>, <span title="Etablissement">BM</span>, </a><span title="Cote"><a href="http://initiale.irht.cnrs.fr/codex/1851" target="_blank">0173 (0137)</a>.</span><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh65TsVW7mqEw_Y_W6-wbD6cr300MvjoO4PxpPpxmMspr3PeDAtBbrI_kVuF7rfnXxVV7i3IYPtG7LVlYuoAu2DZua4cBp-r8gW2BcM1WApcsAC06Zh_5qXQUAu8tmc4OqAI0_ddwF7F2A/s1600/f.007.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="809" data-original-width="537" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh65TsVW7mqEw_Y_W6-wbD6cr300MvjoO4PxpPpxmMspr3PeDAtBbrI_kVuF7rfnXxVV7i3IYPtG7LVlYuoAu2DZua4cBp-r8gW2BcM1WApcsAC06Zh_5qXQUAu8tmc4OqAI0_ddwF7F2A/s320/f.007.jpg" width="212" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dijon, BM, 0173 f.007</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
While this one is rather on the allegorical side, one of the figures at least is wearing proper clothing. His green bliaut is about knee length with moderate blousing at the waist. Sleeves are closely fitted. No usual trim is visible, but there is a hint of a keyhole neckline (again, without trim). Strangely, there is a band about his waist in a contrasting colour; it could be a belt or wrap rather than trim, however. It is hard to tell whether it is effecting the drape of the fabric. Both vents are visible, and appear to be slightly more forwards than truly on the side.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1QVtyhKL1V3NUwiEJDuo1xR6QA-SSY5608m8lu2DEmU96riLl5_WO06ga26cxYLolinfV1kZljvbGA5zghf5i1i7QxSdwGDjs4VGjAQUfJR1dU-9odHaGWOhKaMbu18uNIpOsVw2yW9s/s1600/Dijon%252C+BM%252C+0173+%25280137%2529+f.020.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="537" data-original-width="809" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1QVtyhKL1V3NUwiEJDuo1xR6QA-SSY5608m8lu2DEmU96riLl5_WO06ga26cxYLolinfV1kZljvbGA5zghf5i1i7QxSdwGDjs4VGjAQUfJR1dU-9odHaGWOhKaMbu18uNIpOsVw2yW9s/s320/Dijon%252C+BM%252C+0173+%25280137%2529+f.020.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dijon, BM, 0173 f.020</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
His outer garment is only knee length, but is still closely fitted. Blousing at the waist appears to be less, but is still present. An odd band in the same colour is visible at the waist--is this a sign of a seam? Skirts do not appear to be slit, nor as full. Interestingly, sleeves are short, only bicep length, and have a hint of trim at the cuff. Underneath is another closely fitted sleeve (garment), which has some rucking at the wrist.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEu8Z79VWrM0qr_eLKAw-TrDWefWGP-GxTNK1BXmNJaNl6Ww47Ha-vuRV4xDyEoHwXoDqj9S8IVdyUxpLCnf_dZpqbnnZ1Cjg6tQt_IbmOqk4E5F7dt7DVpoCV_WHvRs-PREuG_HIJFFo/s1600/Dijon%252C+BM%252C+0173+%25280137%2529+f.029.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="537" data-original-width="809" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEu8Z79VWrM0qr_eLKAw-TrDWefWGP-GxTNK1BXmNJaNl6Ww47Ha-vuRV4xDyEoHwXoDqj9S8IVdyUxpLCnf_dZpqbnnZ1Cjg6tQt_IbmOqk4E5F7dt7DVpoCV_WHvRs-PREuG_HIJFFo/s320/Dijon%252C+BM%252C+0173+%25280137%2529+f.029.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dijon, BM, 0173 (0137) f.029</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Like the original figure, his bliaut is closely fitted, and has blousing at the waist, with the sleeves having wide cuffs. Here, they are shown more clearly than with our original bearded dragon-slayer, giving more hints to the drape. The garment appears almost certainly lined...but again, it could be artistic interpretation to give definition to the folds of fabric. No trim is visible on the garment, which is somewhat unusual. It also appears that the slit in the skirts is in the center front...the skirts are also not quite as wide.<br />
<br />
He is wearing the same kind of shoes as the dragon-slayer, as well as a closer sleeved undergarment.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhh2KAE3djGBJngTQX-MSb7trwHOJOYpTmutNU3FBPvZdKXfEs-ve_ukaIDkY2kePmd7ZS5ZV9qYCf0oO1Acx3K7RIAzWoRby5YQd9JqDH0QRY3RHz4Idc25-Q5ptupfHTYmA_X2fFUcaY/s1600/Dijon%252C+BM%252C+0173+%25280137%2529+f.041.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="809" data-original-width="537" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhh2KAE3djGBJngTQX-MSb7trwHOJOYpTmutNU3FBPvZdKXfEs-ve_ukaIDkY2kePmd7ZS5ZV9qYCf0oO1Acx3K7RIAzWoRby5YQd9JqDH0QRY3RHz4Idc25-Q5ptupfHTYmA_X2fFUcaY/s320/Dijon%252C+BM%252C+0173+%25280137%2529+f.041.jpg" width="212" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dijon, BM, 0173 (0137) f.041</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The monk is not of interest to us...but the fellow stuck in the tree is. His bliaut is much shorter, only knee length, although it does have good bit of blousing at the waist. His sleeves are closely fitted, with no visible rucking, nor trim on the garment.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgx82cD_ItFiFcRnu88us19iGv5NBjkNOuetpS_dZD8i7T71idPfRJyhNqd0CI5bvWE5PiFeIm6szCgr5LHW0KYZDCI0vubljP7OEjtUMHVgIpC2ycd5mXq2wdvXza6KnrxAk_f0xVve94/s1600/Dijon%252C+BM%252C+0173+%25280137%2529+f.047.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="537" data-original-width="809" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgx82cD_ItFiFcRnu88us19iGv5NBjkNOuetpS_dZD8i7T71idPfRJyhNqd0CI5bvWE5PiFeIm6szCgr5LHW0KYZDCI0vubljP7OEjtUMHVgIpC2ycd5mXq2wdvXza6KnrxAk_f0xVve94/s320/Dijon%252C+BM%252C+0173+%25280137%2529+f.047.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dijon, BM, 0173 (0137) f.047</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Again, he is wearing a quite simple, probably lower class bliaut or tunic. Knee length, some blousing, close fitting sleeves--does it still count as a bliaut with close fitting sleeves? I think it might, if only to differentiate that overly long and closely fitted torso from standard tunics. No slits are visible, the skirt is not particularly large, and minimal trim is visible on his left wrist.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVgBuw8dggVdNqgzJBw6loel2n9Xw8ddibplVD02k3molmipofhwbrt6Gbp_FsexgMKQ81oizGlOo2hCo_mNAzvg86IkQuny7SnCBiS4GxEiOZnAzTvmyuyZT7XFSZsUHAtZVB_KL0BQQ/s1600/Dijon%252C+BM%252C+0173+%25280137%2529+f.066.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="809" data-original-width="537" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVgBuw8dggVdNqgzJBw6loel2n9Xw8ddibplVD02k3molmipofhwbrt6Gbp_FsexgMKQ81oizGlOo2hCo_mNAzvg86IkQuny7SnCBiS4GxEiOZnAzTvmyuyZT7XFSZsUHAtZVB_KL0BQQ/s320/Dijon%252C+BM%252C+0173+%25280137%2529+f.066.jpg" width="212" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dijon, BM, 0173 (0137) f.066</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Tall Nobleman: Of the nine or so other garments, this particular one is most definitely the closest in style, even if it is narrow cuffed. The overall cut is more or less the same, although both side slits are visible. You can see the blousing clearly, as well as that the drape is "centered" at the four points--front/back and sides. The neckline and cuff are both trimmed in red, and that strange girdle shows up clearly at his waist...it almost appears like back support?<br />
While the outer garment is green, you can see blue at the vents...and a pale yellow at other places. I am not sure what is going on there, perhaps the artist was trying to show that he is wearing another layer under it of the same cut?<br />
<br />
His shoes are quite pointed, ankle high, and appear to have a seam down the center. <br />
<br />
Neckless Old Guy: The fit of his bliaut is somewhat looser than the other, possibly due to either rank or just not being as fashion forwards. There is a significant amount of blousing at the waist, and his garment is ankle length (after blousing) and has no slits. The skirts also appear to be fairly full. The garment is clearly lined, as the outer is yellowish, and blue shows at the folds. Sleeves are closely fitted, with no signs of trim.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7ifDOJjgzbapXbH1XEbR0EhlaeUwfqLWmEp_WRF743nry1Af0BVxFiFrcCTdCdb0dqbrIbxeKBMZDNmCjtiiiVtyVUpBRhR8DlgPqyGrD2ZST2Zj3mZTDRfe5FdmcpAlP9icdmbq0W0I/s1600/Dijon%252C+BM%252C+0173+%25280137%2529+f.111.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="537" data-original-width="809" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7ifDOJjgzbapXbH1XEbR0EhlaeUwfqLWmEp_WRF743nry1Af0BVxFiFrcCTdCdb0dqbrIbxeKBMZDNmCjtiiiVtyVUpBRhR8DlgPqyGrD2ZST2Zj3mZTDRfe5FdmcpAlP9icdmbq0W0I/s320/Dijon%252C+BM%252C+0173+%25280137%2529+f.111.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dijon, BM, 0173 (0137) f.111</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The body of the garment is quite closely fitted, showing off his "rippling pectorals". The keyhole neckline is modest, like the others shown in this manuscript, and is trimmed with a contrasting colour. I believe there may be a wide band of trim at the hem as well. Sleeves are closely fitted, with no decoration. Skirts appear to be moderately full, and show no signs of slits.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8p_AB6pRwMJQxsWt6OanJTvY1-NgZndbviDWFlCPKFUzpFxhZtqANU2ZoCXyQ6B4XUw64_lIei75X7y3-jvRvKZmahtO9OXMExjqBsIQ3Tfb9ea4tJ1_YvdPTsbxw_cOug0kH0SbCU7k/s1600/Dijon%252C+BM%252C+0173+%25280137%2529+f.122.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="809" data-original-width="537" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8p_AB6pRwMJQxsWt6OanJTvY1-NgZndbviDWFlCPKFUzpFxhZtqANU2ZoCXyQ6B4XUw64_lIei75X7y3-jvRvKZmahtO9OXMExjqBsIQ3Tfb9ea4tJ1_YvdPTsbxw_cOug0kH0SbCU7k/s320/Dijon%252C+BM%252C+0173+%25280137%2529+f.122.jpg" width="212" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dijon, BM, 0173 (0137) f.122</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
He's...biting the dragon's ear? That'll teach it! <br />
This is the first time a neckline shows clearly as being round. His bliaut has no decoration, but appears to be quite well fitted with deep blousing all around. Skirts are fuller, and showing as white inside the red garment. Sleeves are closely fitted, and the garment is barely knee length after blousing--the excessive blousing is likely to free up the legs for ease of movement, and I wouldn't be surprised if this individual garment was normally worn longer. Because of the heavy blousing, we can actually make out more details of the drape than normal...the fall of the skirts--what has been interpreted as pleats by others--is caused /by/ the blousing. The <a href="https://matsukazesewing.blogspot.com/2017/06/whose-sleives-hang-trailing-down-almost.html" target="_blank">16th century Irish leines</a> give a similar effect and has been similarly interpreted as being pleated...I should have noted it sooner on the bliauts.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4I8JyBt1r2kesWXmESslxxhyphenhyphen0iMJWgl5f4dmbcdbi11k-UFqsvxEKdbKwKGmpANp9TqrNYSzhQz80In3o_M928SOPKiWxCBUVXrqC6Zy02loVyJIxKZiWfYjPaTryr-ZKZILptKbhc4g/s1600/Dijon%252C+BM%252C+0173+%25280137%2529+f.140.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="809" data-original-width="537" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4I8JyBt1r2kesWXmESslxxhyphenhyphen0iMJWgl5f4dmbcdbi11k-UFqsvxEKdbKwKGmpANp9TqrNYSzhQz80In3o_M928SOPKiWxCBUVXrqC6Zy02loVyJIxKZiWfYjPaTryr-ZKZILptKbhc4g/s320/Dijon%252C+BM%252C+0173+%25280137%2529+f.140.jpg" width="212" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dijon, BM, 0173 f.148</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
A contorting farmer, I see? His bliaut is again, closely fitted and only knee length (after blousing). The keyhole neckline is trimmed in red, as are the cuffs with a nice, wide, band. As in f.066, you can also see a hint of white at the cuffs, which in this case matches the potential lining of the garment. More likely, it may be an undershirt.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwT-JE5ORpPn_MNbGtUBE5JWJe_qhum9BURMTVKVv4-ZW_VznqyLpicfo7NvsrX4pucQmLvxJ4KdIGVKbnznICaj3gNjxrcSAbopkGGpr4l7mQ0welJUfEz1iz9NuB-ki8dnjw8m1y7MY/s1600/Dijon%252C+BM%252C+0173+%25280137%2529+f.174.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="537" data-original-width="801" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwT-JE5ORpPn_MNbGtUBE5JWJe_qhum9BURMTVKVv4-ZW_VznqyLpicfo7NvsrX4pucQmLvxJ4KdIGVKbnznICaj3gNjxrcSAbopkGGpr4l7mQ0welJUfEz1iz9NuB-ki8dnjw8m1y7MY/s320/Dijon%252C+BM%252C+0173+%25280137%2529+f.174.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dijon, BM, 0173 f.174</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Quite closely fitting on the bodice of the bliaut, and his sleeves have that bell shaped cuff. He doesn't have much blousing going on at all, making me suspect the garment is about ankle length to begin with and only mid-calf as is. The side vent is visible, and actually appears to be more towards the front than the back--it only shows up to mid though if that...another hint that his garment isn't bloused particularly deeply. Unlike the others, the inside of the skirts doesn't show a different colour--however, that could be laziness on the artist's part, since the sleeves do show a different colour inside. <br />
Nice little detail on the hawking glove there, too, for those interested in such things.<br />
<br />
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Next is a piece from <a href="https://donum.uliege.be/handle/2268.1/1509" target="_blank">Evangéliaire d'Averbode, 127f</a>. University of Liege, Ms363. While as you can see, the artwork is much more stylized, I found a couple things of interest. Their garments are of similar form, although not quite as closely fitted, and without any vents. The sleeves have modest bells on them, and clearly are slightly longer on the top (slight bit folded back). Interestingly, the lefthand figure appears to be wearing a gold sash or belt, which is what caught my eye. The overall length of the bliaut also seems to be in line with the others, if you take into account the blousing seen on the other manuscript.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">British Library. <span id="shelfmark">Royal MS 6 C VI. f.152v</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
From the second book of <a href="https://www.bl.uk/collection-items/st-gregory-the-great-moralia-in-job" target="_blank"><i>Moralia in Job</i>, in the British Library</a>, I caught this capital. It's in sadly poor shape, but we can see the slightly belled sleeves, and bloused waist, as well as the keyhole neckline. I believe there is some slight decoration or facings going on at the neckline and cuffs.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Latin 2288. f.65v</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Our last image is from another copy of Gregory's work, <a href="https://manuscrits-france-angleterre.org/view3if/pl/ark:/12148/btv1b10546761x/f1" target="_blank">the Registrum epistolarum</a>. From the third quarter of the 12th century, and currently in the national library of France.<br />
<br />
While somewhat stylized (yet again. Pesky monkish medieval art!), you can see the few details. Closely fitted to the body, close sleeves, and keyhole neckline. Trim (red, with white dots?) shows up at the cuffs and hem, with a variation around the neckline. There don't appear to be any slits for ease of movement, and his skirts are fairly full. I am not sure what is going on at his waist...my first thought was a sash or similar--obviously it is not trim since the monster's head is under it--but I am half wondering if it is part of the hem of his bliaut, wrapped around his waist. The trim does match--it is something I will have to test out once I make mine. <br />
<br />
While he is wearing lovely, bias cut plaid hosen, I won't take that as an excuse to do so (not yet, anyways!).<br />
<br />
<br />
<h4>
Summary:</h4>
Of the fifteen bliauts examined in this survey:<br />
<ul>
<li>Body: 12 of the 15 were closely fitted in the body. The exceptions being the old guy in <i>Dijon, BM, 0173 (0137) f.066</i>, the monks in <i>Ms363 f.127</i>, and potentially the guy in <span id="shelfmark"><i>Royal MS 6 C VI. f.152v</i>. All of whom are older and/or holy.</span></li>
<li>Blousing: 13 of the 15 had the garment bloused over a hidden belt, more or less. The exceptions are <i>Latin 2288. f.65v</i> where I don't know what is going on at his waist, and again, the monks in <i>Ms363 f.127.</i></li>
<li>Neckline: 7 of the 15 had keyhole necklines. 3 were rounded, and the neckline was not visible on the remaining 5.</li>
<li>Sleeves: The majority (10/15) of the sleeves were closely fitted to the wrist. There was a tendency for the closely fitted sleeved bliauts to be less decorated than those with belled sleeves...but the belled sleeves weren't necessarily as heavily decorated as the Dragon-Slayer, either. So, while I feel that wide sleeves may be a more upper class thing, narrow ones aren't indicative of being poor (although the more heavily active people in the illuminations also generally had tighter sleeves, as is practical). One illumination (<i>Dijon, BM, 0173 f.020</i>) had short sleeves, with a longer tight sleeved garment under it.</li>
<li>Trim: 7 of the garments had no trim at all, including 3 of the belled sleeve bliauts (one of which is monkish, so may not count). </li>
<ul>
<li>6 had trim at the neckline, all but 2 of which also showed trim at the cuffs </li>
<li>Only 1 garment--the original inspiration--had trim at the bicep. Bicep trim does show up in other sources, however.</li>
<li>7 of the garments had trim at the cuffs. All but 1 of these also had trim at the neckline.</li>
<li>3 examples showed trim at or near the hem. All also had trim at the neck, but not necessarily anywhere else.</li>
<li>5 of the garments showed something going on at the waist, either the tied girdle (2 examples), trim, or I don't know what.</li>
</ul>
<li>Skirt Fullness: Only 2 of the examples showed less than full skirts. <i>Dijon, BM, 0173 (0137) f.029</i>, and <i>Dijon, BM, 0173 (0137) f.047. </i>Both could be down to artistic interpretation, rather than meaning the skirts are actually less full.<br /><i></i></li>
<li>Skirt Slits: 9 of the examples had no visible slits in the skirts of the bliaut. 5 had visible side slits. And 1 has what I believe is a front/back slit.</li>
</ul>
<br />
Essentially, what all that tells me is that the original inspiration piece is not as atypical as I thought at first. The amount of trim is odd, yes--no other example had decoration in five different locations--, and I still don't know what is going on with the apparent chevron trim at the upper waist, but there are examples of all of its elements elsewhere (including the potential waist trim). Which means that yes...it is definitely still an option to use for my main inspiration!<br />
<br />
I also had an Eureka! moment on the skirt pleats--a breakthrough for me anyways. I'm sure others have already figured it out before, but it does take a major weight off my mind when it comes to patterning the skirts, and how much complexity is required there.<br />
<br />
<br />
<h3>
Bibliography:</h3>
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<div class="csl-entry" style="margin-bottom: 1em;">
‘BnF. Département Des Manuscrits. Latin 2288 | Polonsky’ <<a href="https://manuscrits-france-angleterre.org/view3if/pl/ark:/12148/btv1b10546761x/f1" target="_blank">https://manuscrits-france-angleterre.org/view3if/pl/ark:/12148/btv1b10546761x/f1</a>> [accessed 9 April 2019]</div>
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<div class="csl-entry" style="margin-bottom: 1em;">
ingen Dairmata, Aibell, ‘The Bliaut throughout 12th Century Europe’, 2009 <<a href="http://www.eg.bucknell.edu/~lwittie/sca/garb/europe_class/europe_bliaut.html" target="_blank">http://www.eg.bucknell.edu/~lwittie/sca/garb/europe_class/europe_bliaut.html</a>> [accessed 9 April 2019]</div>
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<div class="csl-entry" style="margin-bottom: 1em;">
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<div class="csl-entry" style="margin-bottom: 1em;">
‘Evangéliaire d’Averbode.’, 2014 <<a href="http://donum.uliege.be/handle/2268.1/1509" target="_blank">http://donum.uliege.be/handle/2268.1/1509</a>> [accessed 9 April 2019]</div>
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<br />
<div class="csl-entry" style="margin-bottom: 1em;">
‘St Gregory the Great, Moralia in Job’, <i>The British Library</i> <<a href="https://www.bl.uk/collection-items/st-gregory-the-great-moralia-in-job" target="_blank">https://www.bl.uk/collection-items/st-gregory-the-great-moralia-in-job</a>> [accessed 9 April 2019]</div>
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<br />
<div class="csl-entry">
‘The Bliaut Revisited’, <i>HOUSE WILD ROSE</i> <<a href="https://housewildrose.weebly.com/the-bliaut-revisited.html" target="_blank">https://housewildrose.weebly.com/the-bliaut-revisited.html</a>> [accessed 9 April 2019]</div>
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</div>
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Brann mac Finnchadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04614813862245766203noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2468874881802139741.post-82590680717443225592018-11-28T02:00:00.000-09:002018-11-28T02:00:06.127-09:00Peasant Fashion in the Low Countries: Stage Two. Hieronymus BoschYes, that Hieronymus Bosch. Most of his work is not of any kind of use for this project, but two paintings are noted down as not being suspect, one noted as a "maybe", and three which are suspect, but may still be of use. So, thankfully, this should be a relatively short post.<br />
<br />
Bosch was born 1450 and died 1516....rather earlier than most of the works in this survey. He grew up and lived in the <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/%27s-Hertogenbosch" target="_blank">s-</a><span class="nowrap"><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/%27s-Hertogenbosch" target="_blank">Hertogenbosch</a>, in the</span> <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Duchy_of_Brabant" target="_blank">Dutchy of Brabant</a> (Southern Netherlands). He moved to Oirschot around 1480--the region a bit south of his birthtown, by about 11 minutes (Latitude).<br />
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Because of Bosch's allegorical style of paint, and his active dates, the majority of his works are outside the subject of this survey, so I will only be covering a few. Again, I am covering only the clothing of male and peasant class.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiycdipiOgYGqahfFdQh9MLMzZZlE-uMUlCmNmxnTKCF9eFz0UTXSenQNNYMhBFNkVtSPx02d342jJpLgPxtjwrsP3lBKZQx9aiWgtyc50r1ct4xWFfnrfxeg8IQ5WKCSs4fyHhEByQ4bc/s1600/Bosch+Allegory_of_Gluttony_and_Lust.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1450" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiycdipiOgYGqahfFdQh9MLMzZZlE-uMUlCmNmxnTKCF9eFz0UTXSenQNNYMhBFNkVtSPx02d342jJpLgPxtjwrsP3lBKZQx9aiWgtyc50r1ct4xWFfnrfxeg8IQ5WKCSs4fyHhEByQ4bc/s640/Bosch+Allegory_of_Gluttony_and_Lust.jpg" width="578" /></a></div>
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<ul>
<li>Allegory of Gluttony and Lust. 1490-1500. The painting is suspect, of course, but there are some hints. <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Allegory_of_Gluttony_and_Lust" target="_blank">https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Allegory_of_Gluttony_and_Lust</a></li>
<ul>
<li> The drunkard is wearing a conical hat, and pinkish hood.</li>
<ul>
<li>Doublet is mid thigh length, brown, and front fastening with ties--points, possibly. Sleeves are loose, but tight to the wrist.</li>
<li>Black hosen, and some kind of shoes.</li>
</ul>
<li>Discarded on the ground is a hat shaped something like the pommel of a Western saddle, or a yo-yo. This is on top of a black belt clearly showing a silvery buckle, which is centerbar and square., and a bollock dagger. Some variety of clogs with leather uppers is also visible.</li>
</ul>
</ul>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg85973jataTsmg7f-Wh9TThHPeBSlHlYptYPqb0rcw0RK_FRUrsd6b3Y9cxVUKUIFjXHwT76dCTZXsbSfjtq-GvXUZJwKYzpc5_pr3ey4hELuDt3La6J1Lz6-cTgAKg3rj9hHoFo5gqEA/s1600/800px-Cutting_the_Stone_%2528Bosch%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1144" data-original-width="800" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg85973jataTsmg7f-Wh9TThHPeBSlHlYptYPqb0rcw0RK_FRUrsd6b3Y9cxVUKUIFjXHwT76dCTZXsbSfjtq-GvXUZJwKYzpc5_pr3ey4hELuDt3La6J1Lz6-cTgAKg3rj9hHoFo5gqEA/s400/800px-Cutting_the_Stone_%2528Bosch%2529.jpg" width="278" /></a></div>
<ul>
<li> Cutting the Stone. 1494+. The patient undergoing surgery is worth looking at. <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cutting_the_Stone" target="_blank">https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cutting_the_Stone</a></li>
<ul>
<li> Patient (poor bastard).</li>
<ul>
<li>White doublet, not closely fitted. The front is roughly laced (spiral) shut. There appears to be a shot collar lined in blue. Sleeves are quite poofy, and appear to have a separate cuff, or it narrows rather dramatically. Many pairs of points to hold up the hosen are visible at the bottom hem, which is slightly longer than the hip socket.</li>
<li>Shirt is open necked, and only shows a little. But the neckline doesn't appear to be that deep.</li>
<li>White underwear (or the shirt again) is slightly visible where the points are undone.</li>
<li>Hosen are red cloth with a modest (probably not stuffed) codpiece. The points are tied in a single loop bow, red, and have aiglettes.</li>
<li>Black ankle high shoes.</li>
<li>His belt hanging on the chair is fairly wide, at least 1.5", and black. The kidney shaped purse is lovely, and has silver crescent fittings on the flap and buckle. A bollock dagger with a wide flaring pommel is also on there.</li>
<li>A pair of solid wooden clogs is peeking out from under the chair.</li>
</ul>
</ul>
</ul>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGlYgWu__5mWCs-AhrWRrg5ktYa8Fo5C846Botcy2B6K_HotQgnBuChu7KesYuVye-fAo4-lhL02awiKma8-N7tr1aO4lEsvD6vYVT7zZmNlIfJ8TnY2WLmK04E0KqxESZM0XdCT1MjEc/s1600/Jheronimus_Bosch_112.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="813" data-original-width="800" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGlYgWu__5mWCs-AhrWRrg5ktYa8Fo5C846Botcy2B6K_HotQgnBuChu7KesYuVye-fAo4-lhL02awiKma8-N7tr1aO4lEsvD6vYVT7zZmNlIfJ8TnY2WLmK04E0KqxESZM0XdCT1MjEc/s320/Jheronimus_Bosch_112.jpg" width="314" /></a></div>
<ul>
<li>The Wayfarer/Peddler. 1500. While overly grey, the clothing depicted doesn't trigger any warnings of weirdness. <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Wayfarer#/media/File:Jheronimus_Bosch_-_The_Pedlar_-_Google_Art_Project.jpg" target="_blank">https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Wayfarer#/media/File:Jheronimus_Bosch_-_The_Pedlar_-_Google_Art_Project.jpg</a></li>
<ul>
<li> Hat (in hand), is more or less a shapeless bell, with what appears to be an awl stuck into it, with thread wrapped around. The brim is turned up on one side.</li>
<li>Some kind of drapey hood thing. I don't know.</li>
<li>Outer garment is front opening. It doesn't appear to close other than a few buttons at the top (the buttonholes are also visible, and worked in black). Sleeves are poofy, with a separately cut cuff. I don't think they are gathered, just quite loose and eased into place. It appears to come to just above the knee.</li>
<li>I believe he is wearing another garment underneath, in brown. I am guessing by the lack of skirts that it is waist or hip length, and it clearly spiral laces up the front; the hose may be pointed to this one.</li>
<li>White shirt, loose, but not gathered. Neckline isn't particularly deep.</li>
<li>His hosen may be without feet, or have stirrup straps. You can't see many details, other than they go all the way up.</li>
<li>One shoe is ankle high, with a front opening closed by a buckle. The other foot is covered by a slip on mule.</li>
<li>Knife is a bollock style hilt, but appears to be single edged. Pommel is broadly flared with a metal cap, but flares quite suddenly (rather than along the whole length). Sheath is suspended with a cord from the back...it may have a simple frog.</li>
<li>Purse appears to be a simple drawstring, suspended from the same cord as the knife. I see four dangly strings off it, each with something silvery at the end.</li>
<li>Light stubble and short hair.</li>
</ul>
</ul>
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<span style="font-family: "Baskerville Old Face","serif";"><span style="font-size: x-small;">©
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material. Permission is granted to make and distribute verbatim copies of this
document for non-commercial private research or educational purposes provided
the copyright notice and this permission notice are preserved on all copies. The images in this document do not belong to me.</span></span></div>
Brann mac Finnchadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04614813862245766203noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2468874881802139741.post-60477123594414238142018-11-19T17:07:00.001-09:002024-03-09T11:52:25.697-09:00Peasant Fashion in the Low Countries: Stage Two. Pieter Aertsen<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">As you may have guessed, this project ended up being significantly more massive than anticipated. This is the start of Stage 2 of my notes for you to springboard off of if needed; just make sure to give credit and a link back to here. I had originally planned to publish all of the Stage 2 notes--describing the clothing of each guy in the paintings, but then realized that that post would be massive, since this 13 pages without images, and is only the first of the artists (although one of the more prolific ones). As a reminder--since I have had someone try to tempt me into scope creep into foods and maybe women's clothing as well--I am only focusing on the men and menswear for this project, since there is a fair amount on women's clothing out there already.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">For the most part, I am listing the clothing articles from top to bottom, outside to inside, or at least do so towards the end. The paintings are presented in chronological order when the date is known, in order to show any developments in fashion during the time he lived in whatever town. For the most parts, I do not give my theories as to what the garments are made of, but given that we are dealing with lower class, various wools are most likely, with linen for the shirts.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">I do not plan to put up copies of every one of the paintings, which, I need to note for copyright, do not belong to me and are public domain. Image source is linked with the title of the painting.</span></div>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">One (partial) step closer to the end goal!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";"><br /></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Pieter
Aertsen 1508-1575. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Born in Amsterdam (Netherlands),
moved to and lived in Antwerp (Northern Belgium) from around 1540-1555, when he moved back to
Amsterdam. Presumably, the subjects in his paintings were local to him. <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pieter_Aertsen" target="_blank">https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pieter_Aertsen</a>
</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikfYkEqd2jhyphenhyphenmm-VRagtPEJP_Sntn2VX8wVglY3IjHhpxWd6nlg2BlJ8_YGbrF3VBFBuGP4p7URqRHgo7nYOm20Bo6xD2IJgFau2tcENKbTl9HIOYtAVUxttDytmIgJLrKcK9MSHBXAWA/s1600/Labled+The+Egg+Dance%252C+Peter+Aertsen.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="700" data-original-width="1444" height="310" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikfYkEqd2jhyphenhyphenmm-VRagtPEJP_Sntn2VX8wVglY3IjHhpxWd6nlg2BlJ8_YGbrF3VBFBuGP4p7URqRHgo7nYOm20Bo6xD2IJgFau2tcENKbTl9HIOYtAVUxttDytmIgJLrKcK9MSHBXAWA/s640/Labled+The+Egg+Dance%252C+Peter+Aertsen.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 0.5in; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "symbol"; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";"></span></div>
<a name='more'></a><br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 0.5in; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">The
Egg Dance: </span><a href="https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Pieter_Aertsen_-_The_Egg_Dance_-_WGA0059.jpg" target="_blank"><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Pieter_Aertsen_-_The_Egg_Dance_-_WGA0059.jpg</span></a></div><div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 0.5in; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;"><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";"><span> </span><span> </span><span> </span><span> </span><span> </span>Other features of interest </span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">include, as always, pottery, a pair of what may be tarts (the reason I'm sharing it today, on PI day), a lovely piece of glassware. There may be a board game on the table. The floor is strewn with leeks(why?!), and some variety of flower I don't know enough to identify. There is also a lovely little eating knife in detail, and a...salt cellar?<br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1in; mso-list: l0 level2 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "courier new"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Courier New";"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">o<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Leftmost (1) </span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black hat.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Broad brim of the “top hat” type.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Appears to be slightly fuzzy,so I gather it is knit and/or slightly thrummed<br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black cloth hose.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Shoes of black leather,
possibly slashed, of the pumps/Mary Rose type</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Midnight blue Jerkin.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Long skirted, not pleated.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>V neck or crossover.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Quite short sleeves.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Red “doublet”.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Sleeves are close but not tight, and appear
to have some kind of fastening at the cuff.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>It peeks out of the jerkin at the neck.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Shirt of white, only visible
at the neck.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>No details.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Belt is basic, black leather
with what appears to be a double lobed buckle.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Dagger of the “bullock” type</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1in; mso-list: l0 level2 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "courier new"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Courier New";"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">o<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Musician (2)</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Brown jerkin, buttoning down
the front with possibly glass buttons.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>No collar.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>About thigh length
with side slits </span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Blue-green doublet, form
seems similar to above.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Shirt is visible at neck but
no details</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1in; mso-list: l0 level2 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "courier new"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Courier New";"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">o<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Fireplace guy (3)</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black hat appears knit, flat on top with a moderate brim </span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Medium brown cloth hose.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black shoes, no slashing
visible, same as first.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Red jerkin, short sleeves,
no visible fastening.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Length is mid
thigh, and it may be longer in the back?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Shoulder seams at set at the point of shoulder (both scye and body)</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Dark blue Doublet is
as above, wrist length.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There may be a
pinked strip at the wrists.</span></div><div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;"><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Frame purse, plus something unknown hanging behind it. Looks like a dagger sheath, but no hilt visible.<br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1in; mso-list: l0 level2 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "courier new"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Courier New";"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">o<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Dancer (4)</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black shoes as above.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black cloth hose, although
the fit is slightly better than the others.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Dark charcoal knee length
hose of a closer fit.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A codpiece is
visible, and the cuff is rolled up.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Grey crossover jerkin.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Barely thigh length, with a side slit to the
hip.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There is a slight grown on
collar.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I see either shoulder wings with
long sleeves, or the doublet is made of the same fabric and the jerkin has
short sleeves.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Dropped shoulder seam. </span></div><div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;"><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Presumably, that red hat on the floor is his. Knit, flat topped and with a moderate brim, it's slightly thrummed or otherwise fuzzy. <br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 0.5in; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "symbol"; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">A
Meat Stall with the Holy Family Giving Alms. 1551.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><a href="https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:A_Meat_Stall_with_the_Holy_Family_Giving_Alms_-_Pieter_Aertsen_-_Google_Cultural_Institute.jpg" target="_blank"><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:A_Meat_Stall_with_the_Holy_Family_Giving_Alms_-_Pieter_Aertsen_-_Google_Cultural_Institute.jpg</span></a><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";"> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1in; mso-list: l0 level2 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "courier new"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Courier New";"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">o<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">1 (only guy there!)</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">A red jerkin is being worn,
closely fitted, and fastening on the left side.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Mid thigh length, and close skirts.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>You can clearly see the self cloth buttons and a gap between the edges
of the opening.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Sleeves are quite short.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">At first glance, a greenish
charcoal doublet is worn.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>However, based
on the gap in the jerkin, which shows more natural (sheep coloured) cloth, I
think that he is wearing separate sleeves!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>It appears there are more self buttons and hints of buttonholes on the
short sleeves of the jerkin.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>These
sleeves are closely fitted.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Hints of white show at the
cuffs and neck, which more or less matches that showing at the side opening as
well; either he is wearing a heavy shirt, or this is the doublet.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I am leaning towards it being a shirt because
wearing three layers of sleeves doesn’t make sense.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Hose are closely fitted and
go all the way up.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They could be either
knit or cloth—I can’t tell either way, although they do look relatively heavy.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Shoes are black latchet
shoes, side not open.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Belt is a simple thick rope,
loosely tied.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A knife set is suspended
from it in a molded leather sheath (black).</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1in; mso-list: l0 level2 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "courier new"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Courier New";"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">o<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">2 (hiding in the back.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I didn’t see him until I zoomed in).</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Clothing appears to be
similar to the above, although lacking detail.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Jerkin is sheeps black and appears to have brown trim at the hem.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Sleeves or doublet
taupe.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Shirtsleeves slightly
ruffled and peeking out.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Hose are closely fitted and
black.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Hat is low, with a lightly
rolled up hem.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Thin black belt, being
pulled down by the weight of all the stuff hanging off it.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 0.5in; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "symbol"; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Aanbidding
der herders.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>1554.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><a href="https://www.catharijneconvent.nl/adlib/20934/" target="_blank"><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">https://www.catharijneconvent.nl/adlib/20934/</span></a><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";"> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1in; mso-list: l0 level2 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "courier new"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Courier New";"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">o<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">1</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Red Hat is broad brimmed,
and with a deep flat top.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is probably
a blocked hat, not knit.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There is a band
or rope of the same colour around the crown.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Jerkin is light brown,
possibly leather.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Bicep length
sleeves.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Fit is fairly loose, and it
appears he is wearing either a narrow belt lost in the folds, or there is a
waist seam.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Skirts appear to come to mid
thigh, but there is definitely some blousing going on there.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Garment may be allegorical and suspect.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Doublet is blue/black, with
only the sleeves visible.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They stop at
the wrist bone, and are medium fitted, not close but not extra poofy either..<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Hose are brownish (same
issue as with the jerkin), and appear to be fairly close fitting and go to mid
thigh at least (so likely full length joined hose).</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Short hair, unshaven to
bearded.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">He also has a gourd bottle
slung over his shoulder.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>About fist
sized on the bottom bit.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEime-mgoAhBGWFMIrQwdTmR6j2G0Bli0PTpXIlvZrZtGu7Ss-Jb3_nC0vfFrwoq9Jbo6_VPx3vrECxSBDKdYDZ1Jr8FtsP5U4TQ32yiQOMgZ_Mv46aHX58Tn1uXAvXpTm3wJsBaZDPyrG0/s1600/Labled+L%2527Adoration+des+bergers.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="460" data-original-width="345" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEime-mgoAhBGWFMIrQwdTmR6j2G0Bli0PTpXIlvZrZtGu7Ss-Jb3_nC0vfFrwoq9Jbo6_VPx3vrECxSBDKdYDZ1Jr8FtsP5U4TQ32yiQOMgZ_Mv46aHX58Tn1uXAvXpTm3wJsBaZDPyrG0/s320/Labled+L%2527Adoration+des+bergers.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 0.5in; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "symbol"; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">L'Adoration
des bergers. 1555<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><a href="http://mbarouen.fr/fr/oeuvres/l-adoration-des-bergers" target="_blank"><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">http://mbarouen.fr/fr/oeuvres/l-adoration-des-bergers</span></a><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";"> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1in; mso-list: l0 level2 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "courier new"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Courier New";"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">o<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">1</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Not much can be seen of his
clothing, beside the doublet sleeves.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Which
are moderately fitted, and slightly longer than wrist length.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Cuff is close, but I do not see a slit.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Full beard, and short
slightly messy hair</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1in; mso-list: l0 level2 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "courier new"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Courier New";"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">o<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">2 (Young guy)</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Greenish chocolate coloured
doublet, with no visible shoulder seam for the sleeve.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Hair is short and brushed
forwards.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Clean shaven.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOzzFxQb5O0olLOMz9bWY3YcoVJTLrDWbc_moALzlfDGcTnDcTLYDdg3dUxb6pP66hmXYKYaPZoyCPdtUPYw79ewIfDbdYCxqvFgpVQwlzE6ZpTCwRPNuiKhQbTiauqOgUtMtptYhCPjY/s1600/Labled+Aertsen%252C_Pieter_-_Market_Scene+1550.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="1368" height="298" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOzzFxQb5O0olLOMz9bWY3YcoVJTLrDWbc_moALzlfDGcTnDcTLYDdg3dUxb6pP66hmXYKYaPZoyCPdtUPYw79ewIfDbdYCxqvFgpVQwlzE6ZpTCwRPNuiKhQbTiauqOgUtMtptYhCPjY/s640/Labled+Aertsen%252C_Pieter_-_Market_Scene+1550.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 0.5in; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "symbol"; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">The
Market Scene.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>1550s.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><a href="https://www.wga.hu/html_m/a/aertsen/marketse.html" target="_blank"><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">https://www.wga.hu/html_m/a/aertsen/marketse.html</span></a><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1in; mso-list: l0 level2 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "courier new"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Courier New";"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">o<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">1</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Flattened cloche type hat,
medium brown.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">High hip length doublet of red,
sleeves are close fitting, and no collar.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>No visible front opening—either was neglected or could be side
fastening.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Over this, a vest/jerkin of
something tan, perhaps leather.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is
slightly longer than the doublet, but may not close in the front (worn open).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It has short sleeves to mid bicep.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Something is around his
hips…perhaps an apron.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It appears to be
grey or natural linen?</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">The area around his hips is
covered, but you can see tight fitting hose of red going all the way up.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Low black shoes.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Hair is short, and he
appears to have a pointed beard.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1in; mso-list: l0 level2 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "courier new"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Courier New";"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">o<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">2</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Odd kind of cap.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Red, worn high on the head with a pointed
front and ear flaps.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Doublet is similar to the
above, although apparently less fitted through the body as I see wrinkles
there.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Sleeves are fitted and only wrist
length.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Over the doublet is a jerkin
of black, worn open at the waist.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It may
be fastened at the neck.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It does have a
standing collar (open at the front), which shows an edging of white—possibly
the shirt collar.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Sleeves are quite short.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">He is definitely wearing an
apron, possibly of natural linen, and possibly with large pockets.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Breeches are just that.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Fairly close fitting shorts or Venetians in
dark brown; there is some interesting light play going on in the folds, which
suggests a velveteen, but that wouldn’t fit with the scene?</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Stockings are grey, or a
natural wool and gartered at the knee.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Shoes are low and black.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">No beard, and hair is mostly
hidden under the cap.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1in; mso-list: l0 level2 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "courier new"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Courier New";"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">o<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">3</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Flattened cloche style hat,
same as person 1, held in the hand.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Doublet is a faded red,
close fitting, and with a collar.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">A falling band is visible.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">I am not sure what is around
his waist.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Almost like extremely narrow
trunkhose.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Or maybe a wide fabric belt
and the trunkhose?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Colour is a yellowish
brown.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">An apron is visible.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>White.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Stockings go up to the
thigh, are closely fit, and grey.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Low black shoes.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Short hair, no beard.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1in; mso-list: l0 level2 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "courier new"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Courier New";"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">o<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">5 (not much visible)</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Doublet or jerkin of slightly
greenish brown.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Sleeves are long, and
moderately close fitting.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>No visible
collar.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The armscye looks odd, and may
have pleats at the sleevehead.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">I think he is wearing a hat,
black.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1in; mso-list: l0 level2 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "courier new"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Courier New";"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">o<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">6, Basket sitter</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Doublet of palest yellow,
visible only at the close fitted but unshaped sleeves.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Sleeves are short.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black hat, possibly knit and
fulled.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Looks kinda like a beanie.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Jerkin is a style which is
long and doesn’t have a separate pleated skirt.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Appears to be a short shawl type collar, and the sleeves are /very/
short.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Length is low thigh, and there
may be pleats in the center back.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I’m
thinking that the front is crossover.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Hose are a charcoal grey,
and cloth.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Shoes are low and black.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Hair is not visible, and
appears to be clean shaven.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1in; mso-list: l0 level2 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "courier new"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Courier New";"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">o<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">7</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Red skullcap type hat.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Jerkin is a slightly
orangish brown, and long sleeved to the wristbone.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It doesn’t appear to close all the way.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Doublet under it is slightly
yellow, and is not particularly visible.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">White apron, worn high on
the waist.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Short closely fitted
trunkhose.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Knit? Hose of madder/faded
red.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">A satchel is worn, but not
visible (strap is)</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Usual low black shoes.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Cleanshaven, and hair is
short, if slightly longer than the norm.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1in; mso-list: l0 level2 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "courier new"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Courier New";"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">o<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">8</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black bowler type hat.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Mouse coloured crossover
doublet/jerkin, open at the neck and showing bare skin.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Sleeves are close and not particularly long.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Apron is being worn, and
drapes in some interesting folds.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Short trunkhose things in a
dark red.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Hosen are “salmon” coloured
and tightly fitted.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Usual black shoes.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1in; mso-list: l0 level2 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "courier new"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Courier New";"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">o<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">9, Well, dude?</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Reddish (faded?) hat,
looking much like a beret.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Dark mouse coloured jerkin, waist
length.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Close fitting short (mid-bicep)
sleeves.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Short collar is visible with
white edging/</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Doublet is light coloured or
just shirt sleeves, although that is rather close fitting for a shirt.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">He is wearing actual loose trousers
in faded red.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Can’t see the length.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1in; mso-list: l0 level2 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "courier new"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Courier New";"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">o<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">10.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Can’t see much</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Outer garment is loosely
fitted, with long sleeves. Colour is pale grey.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Headwear is a closely fitted
hood with a mantle.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibi3lI6hQ8hBlgJOZkOw8gP9-VOl_i9v_eRV2gieb9YdMh7DreE7c0w9PTfar9JOAUeR7EW7z94vV6m-fJkspdknVAuIQD-3BxVVp1isWyW0l_9weO3MOIHJxrO0-o_gmxK8hyphenhyphenCLQyoHo/s1600/Labeled+B%25C3%25A4uerlicher+Innenraum.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1113" data-original-width="1600" height="444" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibi3lI6hQ8hBlgJOZkOw8gP9-VOl_i9v_eRV2gieb9YdMh7DreE7c0w9PTfar9JOAUeR7EW7z94vV6m-fJkspdknVAuIQD-3BxVVp1isWyW0l_9weO3MOIHJxrO0-o_gmxK8hyphenhyphenCLQyoHo/s640/Labeled+B%25C3%25A4uerlicher+Innenraum.jpg" width="640" /></a><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 0.5in; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "symbol"; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Bäuerlicher
Innenraum, 1556.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><a href="https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Pieter_Aertsen_002.jpg" target="_blank"><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Pieter_Aertsen_002.jpg</span></a><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";"> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1in; mso-list: l0 level2 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "courier new"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Courier New";"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">o<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">1 (dipping boy)</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black, likely knitted, flat
cap.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Jerkin is of a lovely mole
brown.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It has extremely short, slightly
gathered sleeves and comes to a bit above the knee.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>You can see the skirt opening is at the
front.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A short collar is visible, and
there is something interesting going on at the waist…I cannot tell what.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Doublet is also long
skirted, about the same length, and is red.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Sleeves are wrist length, and loosely fitted. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Hosen are pale robin’s egg
blue cloth and appear to go all the way up.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Shoes are low, but
enclosed.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Black leather and welted.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Hair is short (and red).</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1in; mso-list: l0 level2 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "courier new"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Courier New";"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">o<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">2 (looks like the
homeowner?)</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Hat is a wide brimmed and
small crowned number, which is too small to actually fit on his head, so it is
cocked to one side.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It appears to be
knitted.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Red Jerkin is short sleeved,
with obvious pleating at the top.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Skirts
are cut on,<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>and I think this is a cross
front/dbl-breasted jerkin example, as there is no visible front opening at the
bottom of the belly.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Fit is moderately
close, but rectangular.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I think that the
skirt has a front opening, with a bit of crossover, but am not sure.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There is a short collar.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Most likely wool.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>His doublet is silvery grey.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>All that is visible is the sleeves, which are
moderately close fitted and long wrist length.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>They appear to be wool.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">White/dirty white
Hosen…these are interesting.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I can’t see
what is going on, but I gather they are breeches, ending just below the knee,
and a cut on cuff.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They appear to have a
patched stress tear at the inside knee.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Fit is close, but not tight…they look a lot like regency era breeches,
honestly.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Stockings, are a plainer
grey than the doublet.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Knitted, I think.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black mules are being worn.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Clean shaven, but his hair
actually has some length to it.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1in; mso-list: l0 level2 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "courier new"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Courier New";"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">o<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">3 (Guest)</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Hat is quite broad brimmed,
with a square top. Colour is brown.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This
has got to be a blocked hat, given how thin and wide the brim is.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Crown appears to flare outward somewhat.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Jerkin; I think this may be leather.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Short bicep length sleeves, a hint of
gathering.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Wide neckline.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It may be a crossover front garment, but
there is no sign of it at the base of the neck.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>If not, I do not know how he puts it on.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Length is mid thigh, and there is no sign of seam at the waist.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>You can see the seams at the shoulder,
armscye, and something forward of the side (could be the opening, but no sign
of fasteners).</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Thin black belt, with a
short curved sword and bullock dagger hanging from it.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Blackish/green Doublet is visible
at the neck and sleeves, which are close and come to the wrist.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There is no collar.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Slits are visible at the wrist.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">You can see white shirt
peeking out at the wrists, and at the neck where there is visible smocking and
a narrow ruff.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The opening there appears
to be slightly to the right of the neck.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Hosen are red cloth, closely
fitted, and appear to go all the way up.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>There may be a codpiece (I see a bulge as formed by one in his jerkin
skirt).</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Shoes are low and black.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Hair is short, and he is clean
shaven.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJ44ZnbPF2bBqoAa1bbBQhr82B309d_uci9BuH1HHIyVaukBJZBroE6UNs8P-CqGyTfYyVart_qGNo6UwrgxHH7vd5xW_axZcIu2aDIusEwA1dYYIElg1enjDiCr4QAKbmEbSbFuMBj7Y/s1600/Labeled+Christ_and_the_Adulteress.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="528" data-original-width="800" height="422" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJ44ZnbPF2bBqoAa1bbBQhr82B309d_uci9BuH1HHIyVaukBJZBroE6UNs8P-CqGyTfYyVart_qGNo6UwrgxHH7vd5xW_axZcIu2aDIusEwA1dYYIElg1enjDiCr4QAKbmEbSbFuMBj7Y/s640/Labeled+Christ_and_the_Adulteress.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 0.5in; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "symbol"; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Market
with Christ and the Woman Taken in Adultery, 1559. </span><a href="https://www.wikiart.org/en/pieter-aertsen/market-with-christ-and-the-woman-taken-in-adultery-1559" target="_blank"><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">https://www.wikiart.org/en/pieter-aertsen/market-with-christ-and-the-woman-taken-in-adultery-1559</span></a><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";"> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1in; mso-list: l0 level2 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "courier new"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Courier New";"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">o<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">1 (Standing guy</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Broad brimmed hat, grey.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Greyish blue doublet,
crossover type.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It doesn’t even reach is
waist or cover the potbelly.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Rough
collar, and the front angles diagonally from the shoulder to about the bottom
of the armcye before crossing over and fastening under the arm.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Slight drop shoulder.<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>Sleeves are moderate, not particularly loose or tight, and
are wrist length.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Blackish pants with some
golden sheen to them, which could be sun fading on black wool.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I suspect they are full length, and they
gather into a narrow waistband.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I see no
codpiece. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">His shirt appears to be
close fitting, and has no collar.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Clean shaven, short hair.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1in; mso-list: l0 level2 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "courier new"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Courier New";"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">o<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">2 (sitting)</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Thrummed hat!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Which appears to be pinkish.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Doublet of red, it looks
like there is a grown on back collar, but not much of one.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Sleeves are slightly long. I cannot tell what
kind of fastening he has, but it doesn’t look like down the front.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The garment is waist length.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Loose fitting trousers of
slightly greenish grey.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>As above, you
can see gathering into a waistband, and the trousers are ankle length.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Clogs!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>He has them.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>These have projections on the bottom, at the heel and just back of the
ball of the foot. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>No socks are worn.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Short hair, slightly
unshaven</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZHkAGQgr4ZaC4P0Yi0yGiXI4uoC3ZYFaNjrxtFsw9DD_cxwhwZQc8E6gSTbfk4cFuydmxp2VgfVDS1eotTVbwOMK7BAXF5PuwGTUUIoAcHYjLMA28HkifCnweMYY4KHIOo54Rf2ESIVU/s1600/Labled+The+Pancake+Bakery%252C+Aertsen.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="627" data-original-width="1199" height="332" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZHkAGQgr4ZaC4P0Yi0yGiXI4uoC3ZYFaNjrxtFsw9DD_cxwhwZQc8E6gSTbfk4cFuydmxp2VgfVDS1eotTVbwOMK7BAXF5PuwGTUUIoAcHYjLMA28HkifCnweMYY4KHIOo54Rf2ESIVU/s640/Labled+The+Pancake+Bakery%252C+Aertsen.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 0.5in; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "symbol"; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">The
Pancake Bakery, 1560 </span><a href="http://collectie.boijmans.nl/en/object/1408/The-Pancake-Bakery/Pieter-Aertsen" target="_blank"><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">http://collectie.boijmans.nl/en/object/1408/The-Pancake-Bakery/Pieter-Aertsen#</span></a><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";"> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1in; mso-list: l0 level2 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "courier new"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Courier New";"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">o<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Sitting Dude (1)</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Madder red jerkin.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Quite short sleeves appear to be cut in one
with the body.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The fabric (likely wool)
is apparently quite thick.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>No fastinings
are evident, although there may be some hooks and eyes at the neck.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>No collar, and neckline is a round cornered
rectangle.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">“Doublet” Mocha/chocolate
brown.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>All you can see are the sleeves
and hints through the open jerkin.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Sleeves are of moderate fit, with narrow wrists; they appear to be no
longer than needed, and ruched up slightly with wear.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">A blackish belt is
evident.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>No details.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Hair: Mostly clean shaven
with some stubble.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Hints of a mustache,
but probably just thicker stubble.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Hair
is short and curly.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1in; mso-list: l0 level2 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "courier new"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Courier New";"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">o<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Pancake Thief (2)</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Broad brimmed straw hat of
the “boater” type, made of braided straw cords.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Medium blue sleeved
jacket.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Sleeves are moderately close
fitting, with wrist length cuffs getting pulled up from the bent arm, meaning
they are not two piece; a slit at the close cuff is visible.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It looks like there is some kind of shawl
collar(?), and the garment is worn crossover, secured by a belt?</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Red “waistcoat” just visible
at the chest.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>No collar, but the
neckline may be bound.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Neckline is
fairly low.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Speculatively, it may be a crossover
garment as well.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">White shirt with blackwork
embroidery.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Two solid black lines are
visible at the edge of the neckline, which is loose, and a row of crosses or
‘X’s just under that.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I believe there is
a bosom slit, based on the fold there, and the smaller ‘x’s going down under
the waistcoat.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Hair: Definite mustache
growing going on.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Stubble elsewhere, but
neck is shaven.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Hair is short, messy,
and curly.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhKBGEliUesnAqRlUjoNPXJMdnVby8sXfkaCIOx4L67_rRAD8ZzL0ceqJGj9QRwr2fA1DS0Dry7Ug52oasp_sNKmk4BUGiMxX2LRUpZAM5j-YhBSk3RJbKRMpPUBqtbcYv_Yel9FL_sNY/s1600/Labeled+Keukenstuk.jpeg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="333" data-original-width="800" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhKBGEliUesnAqRlUjoNPXJMdnVby8sXfkaCIOx4L67_rRAD8ZzL0ceqJGj9QRwr2fA1DS0Dry7Ug52oasp_sNKmk4BUGiMxX2LRUpZAM5j-YhBSk3RJbKRMpPUBqtbcYv_Yel9FL_sNY/s640/Labeled+Keukenstuk.jpeg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 0.5in; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "symbol"; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Keukenstuk.
1560-65.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><a href="https://www.rijksmuseum.nl/nl/collectie/SK-A-2398" target="_blank"><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">https://www.rijksmuseum.nl/nl/collectie/SK-A-2398</span></a><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";"> (take a look at the bottom
right basket…cherries, or tomatoes?) </span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1in; mso-list: l0 level2 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "courier new"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Courier New";"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">o<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">1</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">I am pretty sure his jerkin
is a dark blue, with bare sleeve caps.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Comes down to the mid thigh, and looks fairly heavy.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Doublet sleeves are loose,
but not overly large, and wrist length with a slit.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Cloth hosen, red.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Clogs, with platforms at the
heel and closer to the middle of the foot.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The clogs are pointed.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Short hair, long beard.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1in; mso-list: l0 level2 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "courier new"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Courier New";"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">o<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">2 (young guy</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Red flat cap. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Kinda a taupe coloured
doublet.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Loose sleeved, bare wrist
length.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Appears to be fairly short, not
reaching to mid-thigh.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>No opening was
painted.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">His hosen are black, and
closely fitted.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Shoes are slip on, with a
low heel.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Short hair and clean shaven
(or too young to grow a beard).</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 0.5in; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "symbol"; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Interior
of a peasant dwelling. 1560s.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><a href="https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Aertsen_Interior_of_a_peasant_dwelling.jpg" target="_blank"><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Aertsen_Interior_of_a_peasant_dwelling.jpg</span></a><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1in; mso-list: l0 level2 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "courier new"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Courier New";"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">o<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">1, Sitting Man</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Almost a bowler type hat,
with the brim apparently wider in the back and quite turned up.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Caramel Brown</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">I am not sure what he is
wearing.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Doublet, which comes down to a
slight<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>point at the front.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Sleeves are relatively loose, and not particularly
long, with slight gathering in the wide armscye.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>No collar is visible.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Light tan fabric.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">I am seeing a pleated skirt
hanging down in back, of the same fabric as the doublet. It could be part of
the doublet, but I am not sure since the top edge doesn’t seem to match the
bottom edge of the doublet.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Short breeches, moderately
close fitting, in what may be black.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Dark brown stockings, and
light red tied garters.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Shoes are full, and more
natural leather.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1in; mso-list: l0 level2 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "courier new"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Courier New";"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">o<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">2</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">He is wearing a tall but
small red hat.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Doublet is red, and
presumably relatively close fitting in the sleeves.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>You can see it close up to the throat, and
hints at the cuffs, and just under the waist.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Jerkin is black (sheeps
black?) and appears to be a style crossing over in the front.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I see a separate cut skirt, probably pleated,
and not meeting in the front.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Cuffs
appear to be rolled back slightly to expose the doublet.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>What I am seeing as a skirt, could also be a
satchel—the colours are close, and it is hard to tell.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">A tiny falling band or
collar is showing at his neckline.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Whatever he is wearing on
his legs is grey.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 0.5in; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "symbol"; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Vendor
of Fowl, 1560s.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><a href="https://www.wga.hu/html_m/a/aertsen/vendor_f.html" target="_blank"><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">https://www.wga.hu/html_m/a/aertsen/vendor_f.html</span></a><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";"> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1in; mso-list: l0 level2 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "courier new"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Courier New";"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">o<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Solo guy, with bucket on
head.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Low, worn thrummed hat in
red.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Dark brown or sheeps black
Jerkin has no sleeves or collar.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Front
opening with no sign of closure.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There
may be a waist clasp, or a belt.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I can’t
tell.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I think it is something like mid
thigh length.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Doublet is red.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Sleeves are fairly wide at the head with a
hint of gathering, but not blousy; I see fairly thick fabric, and the cuffs do
appear to be self faced (hints of two layers at the cuff).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is front opening, and closed all the way
up with no sign of fasteners, which likely means hook and eye.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>No collar, and I think the garment is self
bound around the neckline (close in front, but slightly wide).</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">A shirt is visible, and it
doesn’t appear to be fitted at all or really have a collar.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">I can’t tell anything about
the breeches, other than they appear to be close fitting.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Hair is short, and he has a
long, groomed beard.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgaDVLncNDSuuN6a9qOycqk0KxynNazvjyHTHAj68z-p30nltltFeAFgfHSW6OXf9v98SqU6awuj5QVJ1tFCiC3p53f3PZK4bU2zXUnOPW1sgohtBXdsrkAr11ElFZUPYNdvbTreufzSI/s1600/Labeled+The+Vegetable+seller.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="917" data-original-width="919" height="636" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgaDVLncNDSuuN6a9qOycqk0KxynNazvjyHTHAj68z-p30nltltFeAFgfHSW6OXf9v98SqU6awuj5QVJ1tFCiC3p53f3PZK4bU2zXUnOPW1sgohtBXdsrkAr11ElFZUPYNdvbTreufzSI/s640/Labeled+The+Vegetable+seller.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 0.5in; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "symbol"; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">The
Vegetable Seller, 1567.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><a href="https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/9/9e/Pieter_Aertsen_006.jpg" target="_blank"><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/9/9e/Pieter_Aertsen_006.jpg</span></a><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";"> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1in; mso-list: l0 level2 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "courier new"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Courier New";"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">o<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">1</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">We can’t see much of him…but
he /is/ wearing what looks like a thrummed hat.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Upper garments—whatever they
are—are browns.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I think he is wearing a
couple of different garments, based on the little you see at the neck.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">It appears he is wearing
trousers, in black.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Hair is short, as is his
beard, although that is not neatly groomed.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1in; mso-list: l0 level2 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "courier new"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Courier New";"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">o<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">2</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Wearing a red doublet, hip
length.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Sleeves are fitted fairly close,
and there may be a collar.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Under that, you see
something almost skirtlike, with front and back pieces.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Medium blue/grey, maybe an apron?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Given the shape of the side opening, I doubt
it is a garment skirt.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Something is in the way of
seeing his pants, hat, and hair.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJ5tdsyhmjaLR2DyHvtanQgFW0tFNH-e-nfX0e18oVgwSQdf0tcx3D6mdtMaAo5AEJ6yn3vQzM5PeyYbGMlGsUB3ra3J6SNP1Au6-7Y3INqj6ooxgZNP7I2v36ada4JjDNEaQGE4iZBfo/s1600/Labeled+Pieter_Aertsen_-_Market_Scene.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="767" data-original-width="1600" height="306" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJ5tdsyhmjaLR2DyHvtanQgFW0tFNH-e-nfX0e18oVgwSQdf0tcx3D6mdtMaAo5AEJ6yn3vQzM5PeyYbGMlGsUB3ra3J6SNP1Au6-7Y3INqj6ooxgZNP7I2v36ada4JjDNEaQGE4iZBfo/s640/Labeled+Pieter_Aertsen_-_Market_Scene.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 0.5in; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "symbol"; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Market
Scene, 1569. </span><a href="https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Pieter_Aertsen_-_Market_Scene_-_Google_Art_Project.jpg" target="_blank"><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Pieter_Aertsen_-_Market_Scene_-_Google_Art_Project.jpg</span></a><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";"> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1in; mso-list: l0 level2 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "courier new"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Courier New";"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">o<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">1 (probably outlier as upper
class)</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Jerkin is black and appears
to be sleeveless.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A high collar is
visible.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Poofy sleeved doublet of
burgundy (dark red)</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">A modest ruff is visible.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Knit black flat cap.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">He may have a long beard…not
sure.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1in; mso-list: l0 level2 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "courier new"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Courier New";"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">o<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">2 (Guy drinking)</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Red jerkin with short
sleeves, with considerable pleats into the cap. It has a medium height, stiff,
collar.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I am guessing mid thigh to upper
knee in length, and it appears to have pleats in the back, similar to some
garments in Drei.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Doublet likewise has poofy
sleeves, and is a tannish colour.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Modest ruff is visible.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Short hair, and long but
neatly trimmed beard.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1in; mso-list: l0 level2 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "courier new"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Courier New";"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">o<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">3 (working guy</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Buff coloured jerkin, barely
closing in the front.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It has short
sleeves (no poof)<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>and a standing
collar.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I am unsure of the fastening in
the front or the length, although that is no longer than mid thigh.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">His shirt is visible under
that.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>White, bosom slit down to the
sternum, and with a collar and ruff set into place.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">I can’t say that he is
wearing a doublet.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I have to come to the
conclusion that separate sleeves are being worn, as they are kinda a tan
colour.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The sleeves are of moderate fit
and length, with a visible slit.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Simple cloth apron, going
from waist to upper knee.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Red hose, almost certainly
cloth.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There may be sign of a codpiece
under the apron.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Hair is slightly longer than
normal and unruly.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Beard is rather long
and likewise curly and unruly.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhONALRnOxl0-ML11OnJNrdGnudaFrjfsuGl6V-Sp81iIa5EANuBCN5DEEuYV761Hu-4Jssy7BRFaK94rzN7LSqu13f2irXT_gKV3nAJ2cjb3SZtRtlxWfHDHegtwenwksQd-c2vp5Mv2M/s1600/Labeled+Jesus+Christ+and+the+woman+taken+in+adultery.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1071" data-original-width="1600" height="428" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhONALRnOxl0-ML11OnJNrdGnudaFrjfsuGl6V-Sp81iIa5EANuBCN5DEEuYV761Hu-4Jssy7BRFaK94rzN7LSqu13f2irXT_gKV3nAJ2cjb3SZtRtlxWfHDHegtwenwksQd-c2vp5Mv2M/s640/Labeled+Jesus+Christ+and+the+woman+taken+in+adultery.jpg" width="640" /></a><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";"> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 0.5in; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "symbol"; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Jesus
Christ and the Woman taken in Adultery.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Date Unknown.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><a href="https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Aertsen_-_Christ_and_the_Woman_Taken_in_Adultery.jpg" target="_blank"><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Aertsen_-_Christ_and_the_Woman_Taken_in_Adultery.jpg</span></a><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1in; mso-list: l0 level2 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "courier new"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Courier New";"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">o<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">1 (Onion Holder)</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">We can see two main garments
here.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A full skirted jerkin in red.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The skirt looks like it is to high knee, and
does not have pleats.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There appears to
be a wide, standing shawl type collar.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Fit of the body is relatively close, and I believe I see a side seam.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Pale green doublet, with
close fitted sleeves.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Cuffs are close
and a slit is visible, sleeves are long enough that his left sleeve appears to
be rolled back by several inches.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Long beard, somewhat forked,
and short hair.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1in; mso-list: l0 level2 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "courier new"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Courier New";"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">o<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">2 (Basket Sitter)</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Appears to be wearing a
“mulberry” red coat.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Fitted and skirted
as with guy 1.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It appears to be a
sleeved garment, rather than a jerkin, but there it could potentially be rather
short sleeved jerkin, with a doublet nearly the same colour underneath.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1in; mso-list: l0 level2 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "courier new"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Courier New";"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">o<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">3 (chicken holder)</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Some detail finally!<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>He is wearing a black felt hat, tall crowned
with a shallow downwards brim.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Jerkin has short sleeves,
which are obviously in several pieces, consisting of a pleated upper (pleated
at top and bottom) and a fitted lower part.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>The sleeve comes to about the length of my polo shirt sleeves.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I see no signs of a closure down the
front.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There is a collar.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Length is mid-thigh at the most.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Around the top edge of the collar, and bottom
edge of the sleeve, are what looks like a strip of self cloth inserted and
either cut, or worked into box pleats (or both, with the collar being pleated).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Not seeing any side openings, but the front
edge of the skirt is definitely. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Underneath is a pale green
doublet.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Sleeves are closely fitted to
the arm and wrist, and slightly longer than arm length.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I am thinking that it is a crossover closure
based on how it falls at the neckline, but could be something else as well;
neckline is fairly open, with the collarbone visible.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">A standing shirt collar is
visible, with a narrow line of ruffling at the top.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Full length hose are being
worn, fitted closely, but definitely of cloth rather than knit.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Colour is a super pale greenish tan (I
think).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A codpiece is /definitely/
visible there.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Shoes are low slip ons.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">I am not sure what I am
seeing around his waist.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It looks like a
thickly wrapped, wide sash?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is a
darker green than the jerkin and goes from hip to sternum, with a seam at the
front, and two “levels”.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">He is clean shaven, and hair
is not visible.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjB1hsO4suG-Ip4gG25ROhpzk-eNXJuHdMOvi7kNI9ptMR2u-trHTQVa7J-5IqasbR-FQT9EgvkPbJ10TIvxtysbmX3ejTCXuZiZAVI3R7PDeTvTgOO7M7x1aykFOAVpVJ7-pOR6p2P_7Q/s1600/Labeled+Det_fede_k%25C3%25B8kken._%2527Voluptas_Carnis%2527.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="411" data-original-width="800" height="328" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjB1hsO4suG-Ip4gG25ROhpzk-eNXJuHdMOvi7kNI9ptMR2u-trHTQVa7J-5IqasbR-FQT9EgvkPbJ10TIvxtysbmX3ejTCXuZiZAVI3R7PDeTvTgOO7M7x1aykFOAVpVJ7-pOR6p2P_7Q/s640/Labeled+Det_fede_k%25C3%25B8kken._%2527Voluptas_Carnis%2527.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraph" style="line-height: normal; mso-add-space: auto; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; mso-outline-level: 1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "symbol"; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol; mso-font-kerning: 18.0pt;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif"; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-font-kerning: 18.0pt;">Det fede køkken 1570s. </span><a href="https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Det_fede_k%C3%B8kken._%22Voluptas_Carnis%22.jpg" target="_blank"><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif"; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-font-kerning: 18.0pt;">https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Det_fede_k%C3%B8kken._%22Voluptas_Carnis%22.jpg</span></a><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif"; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-font-kerning: 18.0pt;"> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1in; mso-list: l0 level2 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "courier new"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Courier New";"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">o<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">1 </span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Reddish knit brimmed hat, with
thrums.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Much the same shape as a modern
boater hat.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Bicep length jerkin of
brown.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The material looks thick.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Appears to be front opening, and maybe with a
small collar.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Skirt is knee length or
so.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Doublet has loose sleeves,
and is red.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">There may be a slight ruffle
to the neck of his shirt.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Pale black cloth hosen,
fairly thick.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Low shoes, which appear to
be buckled?</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Short hair, unshaven.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1in; mso-list: l0 level2 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "courier new"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Courier New";"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">o<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">2</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Hat is similar to the above,
but black and probably without thrums</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Jerkin is blue, and has
bicep length sleeves.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I can’t make out
details about the front, since it is shadowed.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Skirt is mid-thigh in length, and front opening.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Cloth looks thick</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Doublet of grey appears to
have sleeves slightly short of the wrist.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">A definite fine ruffle of
the shirt is visible at the neck.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">I am not sure what is going
on with the hose.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They appear to be
normal hosen, with codpiece visible, but on his right leg it appears to be
rolled down and showing a fine patterned cloth there.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Colour is black.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black shoes, with a back to
them.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Short hair, clean shaven.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1in; mso-list: l0 level2 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "courier new"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Courier New";"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">o<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">3 (Simon Pegg)</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Dark brown hat similar to
the other two, looks like it has a brushed nap raised.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Blue jerkin with short
sleeves.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There is a short slit visible
at the top of the one sleeve.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It
definitely has a collar, and even lapel.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Buttons are visible, black and flat—lenticular shaped black glass?</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">A second garment appears
pale green underneath and sleeveless.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I swear
I am seeing a slight roll collar, and extra poofiness, so it might be waist
length and crossover front?</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Under that, I think he has a
doublet, of heavy black wool. Sleeves are quite loose.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Short hair and scraggly
beard.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjV9cz139CWrSjYXFxYqui7UmlVs36C-oboz2eJth6GAhNg1IRmIm37d5FcrauLdENRbDAHpFVE370gUXcSNfV6w48N_IqsMFeK8RNxgibi5AwGA1Hq1TTgc0lr09qBnHNV4UyFxGE0Y8Q/s1600/Labled+Deeds+of+Christian+Charity%252C+Aertsen.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1258" data-original-width="1600" height="502" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjV9cz139CWrSjYXFxYqui7UmlVs36C-oboz2eJth6GAhNg1IRmIm37d5FcrauLdENRbDAHpFVE370gUXcSNfV6w48N_IqsMFeK8RNxgibi5AwGA1Hq1TTgc0lr09qBnHNV4UyFxGE0Y8Q/s640/Labled+Deeds+of+Christian+Charity%252C+Aertsen.jpg" width="640" /></a><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";"> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 0.5in; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "symbol"; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Deed
of Christian Charity, 1575 </span><a href="https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Aertsen_Christian_Charity.jpg" target="_blank"><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Aertsen_Christian_Charity.jpg</span></a><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";"> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1in; mso-list: l0 level2 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "courier new"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Courier New";"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">o<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">1</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Mostly covered, but wearing
a butter yellow outer garment.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It has <span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span>a broad collar which has fallen open,
short or no sleeve (sleeves not visible), and comes well past the knees.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Underneath, a doublet? of
grey, collar mirroring the outer garment.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Sleeves are loose, and a little on the long side.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Hair: Short, curly, and
receding.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>He has a short beard, which
appears somewhat unkempt.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1in; mso-list: l0 level2 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "courier new"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Courier New";"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">o<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">2 (wealthy)</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Hat: Shallow brimmed, with a
pleated “muffin top”.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There is a band,
which may have black feathers in it?</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Doublet of red wool
(heavy).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>All that is visible is the
sleeves, which are loose, and long enough to be turned back slightly.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">He appears to be wearing a
simple, but wide ruff or a piccadill.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Outer garment is a shaub,
showing his wealth.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Dove grey, and lined
with brown fur.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The sleeves have
substantial slits, and are only being half worn.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Shoes are simple and brown,
slip ons with a low heel.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Hair is short, and well
brushed.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Beard is neatly trimmed. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1in; mso-list: l0 level2 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "courier new"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Courier New";"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">o<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">3</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Not much is visible, beyond
a brown cloak, and brown shapeless hat.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Doublet sleeves are a dirty
grey.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Has a pair of crutches,
simple T shapes.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Beard is—oddly, based on the
other clothes—neatly groomed.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1in; mso-list: l0 level2 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "courier new"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Courier New";"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">o<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">4 (beggar?)</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Not wearing much.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Hat is moderately brimmed, with the edges
curling up all around.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Crown is “bowl”
shaped.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I think it is a yellowish wool,
but could be straw.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Wearing either a cloak, or
skirted doublet wrapped and tied around his body.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">No pants!</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">He is receiving a sunny
yellow skirted doublet (high knee length?), with a falling collar from 2.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Short, messy hair, long
unkempt beard</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1in; mso-list: l0 level2 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "courier new"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Courier New";"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">o<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">5 (drinking dude in more
standard clothing</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Short doublet, of the more standard type in a
slightly bluish grey.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">A side lacing? jerkin in a
true grey, with vertical lines of trim.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>It appears to have a standing collar slightly rolled back.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Cape? in black.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Full set of modest ruffs</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Legwear is of the Venetian
type, albeit modest rather that voluminous.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>They are red, with a pair of black stripes up the outer leg—there may be
a pocket there.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Leg opening is just a
slit up the back of the calf—no extra length in the outseam.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black/grey stockings,
closely fit.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Low black shoes.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Short hair.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Cheeks appear shaven, but there is a neat
beard.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1in; mso-list: l0 level2 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "courier new"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Courier New";"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">o<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">5</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Grey—natural wool?—felt or
felted knit cap.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Somewhat shapeless, but
with a narrow brim.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Navy blue cloak or extremely
loose fitting jerkin.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Doublet is medium brown,
sleeves are loose, but short.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Neckline
is rather open.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Either a white/grey (could
be white and dirty) shirt exposed above the doublet, or another lighter
doublet.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A loose collar is visible.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>He is also holding a possibly similar
garment, which I am guessing to be a doublet rather than a shirt.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Somewhat trimmed medium
length beard.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Guessing short hair.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1in; mso-list: l0 level2 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "courier new"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Courier New";"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">o<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">6 (kid)</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Long sleeved green
jacket.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Kindof a moss green.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Sleeves are short and close fitting, with a
visible shoulder seam, and slit at the wrist.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>There may be a small collar.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It
closes at the neck, with no visible fastening—probably hook/eyes.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Comes to roughly the top of the thigh.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Underneath is possibly his
shirt, which is not tucked in (shame on him!).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>It appears to be just a touch shorter than the above jacket.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Pants are straight legged
trousers, probably around high ankle length to begin with, and now ragged.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Fluffy blonde hair.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1in; mso-list: l0 level2 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "courier new"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Courier New";"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">o<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">8 (beggar)</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Brown cloak, lined with
red.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It may have a hood?</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Doublet/jacket sleeve is
loose, but not long, and has a slit.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I
am guessing it is natural white wool.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Hair is messy, but not
unkempt, and short.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Likewise the beard.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1in; mso-list: l0 level2 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "courier new"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Courier New";"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">o<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">9 (wealthy)</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Also wearing a shaube or
rock type garment in dove grey with brown fur lining.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I want to say it has underarm slits, by the
way it folds.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Garment underneath is almost
a charcoal coloured robe(?), likely with a standing collar.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I see a modest ruff, similar to guy 2.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">His hat is neatly formed, in
a bell shape much like a modern women’s cloche (but with a flatter brim).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Black, with shining trim and a headband.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Closely fitted red
hose—either they match the colour of his leg garments, or they go all the way
up.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Can’t tell the detail.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black mules for shoes. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Beard is long and may be
curled?</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1in; mso-list: l0 level2 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "courier new"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Courier New";"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">o<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">10 (giving out food)</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Grey sleeveless jerkin,
which may or may not have a collar.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Standing ruff like the guy
above—I am starting to wonder whether it is part of a uniform?</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Doublet sleeves are long and
loose with close cuffs.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Colour may be
bluish.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Hair is short, and moderate
beard length with trimmed sideburns (does not run into the hairline).</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1in; mso-list: l0 level2 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "courier new"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Courier New";"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">o<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>11</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Short cape of the
semi-circular type, buff coloured.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>There
appears to be some extra fabric at the neck, gathered in folds.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The cape or shawl is definitely shorter in
the front than in the back.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Dark grey—moleskin
coloured—doublet.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Sleeves are closely
fitted, and without extra length (neither are they too short).</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">You can see a touch of white
at his left wrist which is probably the shirt.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Hair is quite short.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>No facial hair.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1in; mso-list: l0 level2 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "courier new"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Courier New";"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">o<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">12 (corner dude)</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Hip length dark brown tabard
or cloak thing.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It could be a cloak he
is wearing so his right arm is free.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">A hat is present, in a dirty
brown, in his hand.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It appears to be one
or two steps up from just being a hat blank.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Jerkin of dove grey, with a
HOOD.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Sleeves appear to be almost just
bell caps.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Length is to the knees, with
side slits potentially to the waist.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Under that, a greenish grey
doublet with loose sleeves.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">A loosely sleeved shirt is
under that, peeking out at the wrist.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Pants are closely fitted but
relaxed, and a rather ugly yellow brown.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Over those are some kind of
dirty white stockings.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They have
interesting drape patterns on them, which almost could be cross gartering, or
like he is wearing the Russian portyanki (link to example).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The top is rolled down.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Shoes are black mules.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">He has a fascinating lidded
wicker basket, which I think is attached to his belt.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1in; mso-list: l0 level2 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "courier new"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Courier New";"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">o<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">13</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Grey tabard or bell sleeved
jerkin with a collar.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Quite modest ruff.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Doublet sleeves are dark
green, and closely fitted</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Close fitting hose of black?</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Shoes are not
distinguishable.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Short beard without
sideburns, short hair</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1in; mso-list: l0 level2 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "courier new"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Courier New";"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">o<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">14 (background guy)</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Looks like an extremely
short, sleeveless jerkin, possibly with shoulder wings.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Greyish</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Short skirted doublet
underneath, of a yellowish tint.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Something is going on at his
wrist, but I cannot tell if is a ruff or not.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Short breeches in dark
brownish yellow.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Short hair.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0yCOjWvabvGi38lgwiFjKaIfj_iBwWt8pCdMLMsCXMI5k0qeqTLkj02XRjU0_GdQAwRDD_zZpgLHB59w-Rpe2fWJJX93N-AsO6G8t2AOiXKF_WVkRlV_4RDRr2j0WzlMRvpakIKGKMdE/s1600/Labeled+Apostles_Peter_and_John_-_WGA00055.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="674" data-original-width="930" height="462" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0yCOjWvabvGi38lgwiFjKaIfj_iBwWt8pCdMLMsCXMI5k0qeqTLkj02XRjU0_GdQAwRDD_zZpgLHB59w-Rpe2fWJJX93N-AsO6G8t2AOiXKF_WVkRlV_4RDRr2j0WzlMRvpakIKGKMdE/s640/Labeled+Apostles_Peter_and_John_-_WGA00055.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 0.5in; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "symbol"; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Apostles
Peter and John, 1575. </span><a href="https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Pieter_Aertsen_-_Apostles_Peter_and_John_-_WGA00055.jpg" target="_blank"><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Pieter_Aertsen_-_Apostles_Peter_and_John_-_WGA00055.jpg</span></a><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";"> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1in; mso-list: l0 level2 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "courier new"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Courier New";"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">o<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">1 (chest hauler)</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Somewhat bright orange
doublet.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Waist length, and appears to be
front opening.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Sleeves are wrist length
and appear to be slightly loose.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Pants are a darker
orange.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It almost looks like Venetians
to above the knee, and tight fitting cannons to the upper calf.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>A modest codpiece is visible.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">He may have a black cape on,
but it is hard to tell.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Stockings are probably knit,
and grey.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black shoes.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Short beard</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1in; mso-list: l0 level2 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "courier new"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Courier New";"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">o<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">2 (Muleteer</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Somewhat shapeless hat,
probably blocked.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Multiple upper body layers;</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Black vest being worn; no
sleeves, and waist length.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This could be
shadow, as well.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Brown jerkin, high thigh
length, with sleeves to just above the elbows.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Skirt is not particularly full.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Red doublet, with only the
sleeves visible.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Sleeves are close
fitting.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">I suspect he is wearing
“gauntlet” gloves.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Red trousers are widely
straight legged, possibly gathered at the top, and slightly high water.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The fabric is quite drapey.<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Probably clean shaven, and
short haired.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1in; mso-list: l0 level2 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "courier new"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Courier New";"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">o<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">3 (creepy dude with hat.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Round topped, blocked
hat.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Moderate brim.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Jerkin/doublet is mouse
grey, and loosely fitted.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>That could be
a cape, actually.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Leggings….dirty white and I
see horizontal lines.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They are closely
fitted, and that is all I can say.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Shoes appear to be mules.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Short, unkempt, and pointed
beard.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1in; mso-list: l0 level2 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "courier new"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Courier New";"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">o<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">4<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Red thrummed hat.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Grey short sleeved
jerkin.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Bare arms otherwise.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I can’t interpret the folds</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Legs are closely fitted to
the knees at least.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Clean shaven.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLtN1RCEZS-7hP-JMil3UTPI2H9GWof5LC-8hXgFnplY2zGLoWJVYnzQ5EeI1MyeoGr6NZVIsql1TEgLYWzK7-XIsRqNmx6Y9YMMlRFw71iSoxFqLAlzj3pZLg4uSb_RwP2cio65mB4Ls/s1600/Labeled+Pieter_Aertsen_Christ_cleansing_the_Temple.png" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1339" data-original-width="1600" height="534" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLtN1RCEZS-7hP-JMil3UTPI2H9GWof5LC-8hXgFnplY2zGLoWJVYnzQ5EeI1MyeoGr6NZVIsql1TEgLYWzK7-XIsRqNmx6Y9YMMlRFw71iSoxFqLAlzj3pZLg4uSb_RwP2cio65mB4Ls/s640/Labeled+Pieter_Aertsen_Christ_cleansing_the_Temple.png" width="640" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 0.5in; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "symbol"; mso-bidi-font-family: Symbol; mso-fareast-font-family: Symbol;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">·<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";">
</span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Christ
cleansing the Temple, date unknown.</span> <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><a href="https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Pieter_Aertsen_Christ_cleansing_the_Temple.png" target="_blank"><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Pieter_Aertsen_Christ_cleansing_the_Temple.png</span></a><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1in; mso-list: l0 level2 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "courier new"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Courier New";"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">o<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">1 (kneeling with eggs)</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Red thrummed hat.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Grey doublet, with two part
poofed sleeves (upper poof and bicep down close fitting).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is only waist length, and may have a
slight collar which has fallen.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It may
be side opening; there is a up curved hem to the visible side.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I cannot tell how it opens.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">A shirt is visible beneath
the doublet, and at the elbow where there is a hole in the doublet.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Hosen are red; they appear
to have been joined hosen (with codpiece clearly visible), but wore out to the
point where they are shorts.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Hair is short, as is his
beard.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1in; mso-list: l0 level2 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "courier new"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Courier New";"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">o<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">2 (Over by archway). Might
be symbolic.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">GREEN thrum hat.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Wearing a loose overgarment</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1in; mso-list: l0 level2 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "courier new"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Courier New";"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">o<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">3 (basket of chickens on
head)</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Black jerkin with long skirts.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Fit is close, sleeves are wrist length and
close.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I almost appears there are back
pleats, and the front skirts are tucked up to the small of the back out of the
way.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Honestly, it looks a lot like a
tailcoat.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Something is covering his
thighs.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Unknown, but appears to be
skirts of another garment</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Below that, I think his
shirt is showing.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>So he is not wearing
any kind of pants.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Shirt collar also
shows at the neck, tall and drooping.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1in; mso-list: l0 level2 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "courier new"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Courier New";"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">o<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">4 (Two basket)</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Long skirted red outer
garment, coming to about knee length.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Sleeves are medium, and wrist length.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Close fitting, possibly
black, hosen.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Short hair, pointed beard.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1in; mso-list: l0 level2 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "courier new"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Courier New";"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">o<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">5 (Slipping dude)</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Grey pillbox type hat.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Grey outer garment, no
visible opening, long and fairly close sleeves.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Slight ruffles at the
wrists.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Red cloth hosen to the knee
at least.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Low slip on shoes.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1in; mso-list: l0 level2 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "courier new"; mso-fareast-font-family: "Courier New";"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">o<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">6 (tackler?)</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Red/yellow outer
garment.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Sleeves of moderate fit, and a
floppy collar.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Upper thigh in length at
least.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "wingdings"; mso-bidi-font-family: Wingdings; mso-fareast-font-family: Wingdings;"><span style="mso-list: Ignore;">§<span style="font: 7pt "Times New Roman";"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">I swear that is a falling
band visible at his neck.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="margin-left: 1.5in; mso-list: l0 level3 lfo1; text-indent: -0.25in;">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><br /></span></span>
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<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Baskerville Old Face","serif";">©
John Frey, 2018. The Author of this work retains full copyright for this
material. Permission is granted to make and distribute verbatim copies of this
document for non-commercial private research or educational purposes provided
the copyright notice and this permission notice are preserved on all copies. The images do not belong to me, but I edited them for clarity.<br /><br />I have no idea why the word "schedule" is below this, or how to get rid of it.</span></span></span></span></div>
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Brann mac Finnchadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04614813862245766203noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2468874881802139741.post-30709634818938015392018-05-07T03:00:00.000-08:002018-05-07T03:00:13.725-08:00Peasant Fashion in the Low Countries: Stage OneSome time ago--in response to having been recently working on a garment which was for high court--I decided I wanted to play with <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Low_Countries" target="_blank">Low Countries</a> clothing. Specifically, peasant clothing. Fashion A La Brueghel, as I immediately dubbed it. <a href="http://www.dorst.co.uk/koyt/" target="_blank"> Historical Dutch beer</a> may have also been involved in this decision, because who doesn't design an outfit to match a beer they might be drinking?<br />
<br />
That is where I ran into a snag. While there are several excellent articles out there on /women's/ Low Countries clothing, the selection of articles covering the details for menswear was decidedly lacking. So, naturally, I decided I needed to do a bunch of research and write my own articles on the topic. I fairly quickly decided on the plan of going through the artwork of Brueghel and other Flemish artists of the period, and winnowing out any pieces which did not have usable details; so marking down any paintings which had the distinctive clothing of the correct class (i.e. Not Nobility), and which weren't purely allegorical and religious in tone since the clothing of those is often suspect.<br />
<br />
<a name='more'></a>The project then grew in ambition. I needed to know not only what the garments were, but their details, and especially what colour combinations appear to have been worn. Talking with my editor and sounding board, we decided that it would probably be better for me to publish the research at each various stage, rather than only once I reach the end of it. We figured that it would help prevent information overload for you, give me a few extra blog posts to publish, and also allow you do use my notes as a springboard for your own research.<br />
<br />
I quickly found <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dutch_and_Flemish_Renaissance_painting" target="_blank">a list of artists </a>working in the area around that time, sadly on wikipedia, but it's better than nothing, and worked my way down the list alphabetically, and digging up albums of their works when I could find them. All in all, most of them could be discarded, either because they specialized in portraits (of nobility), religious work (accuracy of clothing is....suspect), or because I just couldn't find their artwork.<br />
<br />
Going through the pieces of artwork, I noted down the artist and their life years, as well as what topics their inclinations lead them to. I counted out how many people are in each image by gender, whether there are non-clothing related resources such as pottery, and whether the artwork is suspect of having Allegorical clothing or other inaccuracies. Fully allegorical ones were discarded, of course.<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnpKOcR29gvD7CnQnhveOhYFY6eHUc-SCVYd5_5I0Ub4SvklL7uAJ3wX8lmp8KIaRZklT3rY1m4PgsZh-o8kwVMp-In8GqMXj4QHh5JJWg8MUOlYEvC4SdK4o-TxW_iXDZ7StLuN05m5k/s1600/Aertsen%252C_Pieter_-_Market_Scene.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="387" data-original-width="813" height="190" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnpKOcR29gvD7CnQnhveOhYFY6eHUc-SCVYd5_5I0Ub4SvklL7uAJ3wX8lmp8KIaRZklT3rY1m4PgsZh-o8kwVMp-In8GqMXj4QHh5JJWg8MUOlYEvC4SdK4o-TxW_iXDZ7StLuN05m5k/s400/Aertsen%252C_Pieter_-_Market_Scene.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Aertsen,_Pieter_-_Market_Scene.jpg" target="_blank">Market Scene, 1550</a></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Pieter
Aertsen- 1535 – 1575<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>: </span><a href="https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Paintings_by_Pieter_Aertsen"><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Paintings_by_Pieter_Aertsen</span></a><br />
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Year</span></div>
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<td style="border-left: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 47.55pt;" valign="top" width="63"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Women</span></div>
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<td style="border-left: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 58.4pt;" valign="top" width="78"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Childrens</span></div>
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<td style="border-left: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 98.35pt;" valign="top" width="131"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Pottery,
Etc</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-left: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 82.55pt;" valign="top" width="110"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Allegory/suspect</span></div>
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<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 149.4pt;" valign="top" width="199"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">The
Egg Dance. 1552</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 42.55pt;" valign="top" width="57"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">4</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 47.55pt;" valign="top" width="63"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">3</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 58.4pt;" valign="top" width="78"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">2</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 98.35pt;" valign="top" width="131"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Y</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 82.55pt;" valign="top" width="110"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
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<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 149.4pt;" valign="top" width="199"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">The
Pancake Bakery 1560</span></div>
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<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 42.55pt;" valign="top" width="57"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">2</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 47.55pt;" valign="top" width="63"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">2</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 58.4pt;" valign="top" width="78"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<br /></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 98.35pt;" valign="top" width="131"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Y</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 82.55pt;" valign="top" width="110"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 3;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 149.4pt;" valign="top" width="199"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Deeds
of Christian Charity, 1575</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 42.55pt;" valign="top" width="57"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">11</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 47.55pt;" valign="top" width="63"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">5</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 58.4pt;" valign="top" width="78"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">4</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 98.35pt;" valign="top" width="131"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Y</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 82.55pt;" valign="top" width="110"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">M
</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 4;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 149.4pt;" valign="top" width="199"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">L'Adoration
des bergers. 1555</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 42.55pt;" valign="top" width="57"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">2
part</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 47.55pt;" valign="top" width="63"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">1</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 58.4pt;" valign="top" width="78"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">1</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 98.35pt;" valign="top" width="131"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 82.55pt;" valign="top" width="110"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Y</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 5;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 149.4pt;" valign="top" width="199"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Jesus
Christ and the woman taken in adultery</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 42.55pt;" valign="top" width="57"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">12</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 47.55pt;" valign="top" width="63"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">2</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 58.4pt;" valign="top" width="78"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 98.35pt;" valign="top" width="131"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Y</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 82.55pt;" valign="top" width="110"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 6;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 149.4pt;" valign="top" width="199"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Interior
of a peasant dwelling 1560s</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 42.55pt;" valign="top" width="57"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">2</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 47.55pt;" valign="top" width="63"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">4</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 58.4pt;" valign="top" width="78"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">1</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 98.35pt;" valign="top" width="131"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Y</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 82.55pt;" valign="top" width="110"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 7;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 149.4pt;" valign="top" width="199"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Market
Scene 1550s</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 42.55pt;" valign="top" width="57"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">22</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 47.55pt;" valign="top" width="63"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">12</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 58.4pt;" valign="top" width="78"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">1</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 98.35pt;" valign="top" width="131"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Y</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 82.55pt;" valign="top" width="110"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 8;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 149.4pt;" valign="top" width="199"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Still
Life With meat and the Holy Family 1551 </span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 42.55pt;" valign="top" width="57"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">1</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 47.55pt;" valign="top" width="63"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<br /></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 58.4pt;" valign="top" width="78"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<br /></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 98.35pt;" valign="top" width="131"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Y</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 82.55pt;" valign="top" width="110"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 9;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 149.4pt;" valign="top" width="199"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">The
Vegetable Seller 1567</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 42.55pt;" valign="top" width="57"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">1</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 47.55pt;" valign="top" width="63"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">1</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 58.4pt;" valign="top" width="78"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 98.35pt;" valign="top" width="131"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 82.55pt;" valign="top" width="110"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 10;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 149.4pt;" valign="top" width="199"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Bäuerlicher
Innenraum 1556</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 42.55pt;" valign="top" width="57"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">4</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 47.55pt;" valign="top" width="63"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">3</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 58.4pt;" valign="top" width="78"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">M</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 98.35pt;" valign="top" width="131"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Y</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 82.55pt;" valign="top" width="110"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 11;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 149.4pt;" valign="top" width="199"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Market
with Christ and the Woman Taken in Adultery 1559</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 42.55pt;" valign="top" width="57"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">4?</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 47.55pt;" valign="top" width="63"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">4`</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 58.4pt;" valign="top" width="78"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">2f</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 98.35pt;" valign="top" width="131"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Y</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 82.55pt;" valign="top" width="110"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Y</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 12;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 149.4pt;" valign="top" width="199"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Apostles
Peter and John 1575</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 42.55pt;" valign="top" width="57"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">16</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 47.55pt;" valign="top" width="63"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">6</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 58.4pt;" valign="top" width="78"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 98.35pt;" valign="top" width="131"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 82.55pt;" valign="top" width="110"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Y</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 13;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 149.4pt;" valign="top" width="199"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Die
Köchin 1559</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 42.55pt;" valign="top" width="57"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 47.55pt;" valign="top" width="63"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">1</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 58.4pt;" valign="top" width="78"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N
</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 98.35pt;" valign="top" width="131"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Y</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 82.55pt;" valign="top" width="110"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 14;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 149.4pt;" valign="top" width="199"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">The
Fat Kitchen. An Allegory 1570ish</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 42.55pt;" valign="top" width="57"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">3</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 47.55pt;" valign="top" width="63"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">3</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 58.4pt;" valign="top" width="78"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">1</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 98.35pt;" valign="top" width="131"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Y</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 82.55pt;" valign="top" width="110"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">M</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 15;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 149.4pt;" valign="top" width="199"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Portrait
of Simon Marten Dircsz 1565</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 42.55pt;" valign="top" width="57"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">1</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 47.55pt;" valign="top" width="63"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 58.4pt;" valign="top" width="78"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 98.35pt;" valign="top" width="131"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 82.55pt;" valign="top" width="110"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 16;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 149.4pt;" valign="top" width="199"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Market
Scene 1569 </span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 42.55pt;" valign="top" width="57"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">3</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 47.55pt;" valign="top" width="63"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">2</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 58.4pt;" valign="top" width="78"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 98.35pt;" valign="top" width="131"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Y</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 82.55pt;" valign="top" width="110"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 17;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 149.4pt;" valign="top" width="199"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Keukenstuk
1560s</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 42.55pt;" valign="top" width="57"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">2</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 47.55pt;" valign="top" width="63"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">3</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 58.4pt;" valign="top" width="78"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 98.35pt;" valign="top" width="131"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Y</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 82.55pt;" valign="top" width="110"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 18;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 149.4pt;" valign="top" width="199"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Aanbidding
der herders 1550+</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 42.55pt;" valign="top" width="57"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">1</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 47.55pt;" valign="top" width="63"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">1</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 58.4pt;" valign="top" width="78"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 98.35pt;" valign="top" width="131"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 82.55pt;" valign="top" width="110"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Y</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 19;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 149.4pt;" valign="top" width="199"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Vendor
of Fowl 1560s</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 42.55pt;" valign="top" width="57"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">1</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 47.55pt;" valign="top" width="63"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">1</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 58.4pt;" valign="top" width="78"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 98.35pt;" valign="top" width="131"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">M</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 82.55pt;" valign="top" width="110"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 20; mso-yfti-lastrow: yes;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 149.4pt;" valign="top" width="199"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Christ
cleansing the Temple </span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 42.55pt;" valign="top" width="57"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">6</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 47.55pt;" valign="top" width="63"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">1</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 58.4pt;" valign="top" width="78"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 98.35pt;" valign="top" width="131"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 82.55pt;" valign="top" width="110"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Y</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgS2FAX76lxeNPATcqu9qFTRKIYoFDy-FuTg2xwoJqRk6fGFcHQjQot-puAxv2Ht03eylIRIoP-hR1GOl3oF9acbZs14Yj4RwZFn1KJGetX9t7hGsJNE35hdpa7VBLIwmxcvzRQEnIyX5E/s1600/Jheronimus_Bosch_112.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="813" data-original-width="800" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgS2FAX76lxeNPATcqu9qFTRKIYoFDy-FuTg2xwoJqRk6fGFcHQjQot-puAxv2Ht03eylIRIoP-hR1GOl3oF9acbZs14Yj4RwZFn1KJGetX9t7hGsJNE35hdpa7VBLIwmxcvzRQEnIyX5E/s320/Jheronimus_Bosch_112.jpg" width="314" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Wayfarer#/media/File:Jheronimus_Bosch_112.jpg" target="_blank">The Wayfarer</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Hieronymus
Bosch. 1480-1516.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Much of his work is
overly fantastical, and not of help, but some are detailed enough.</span><br />
<table border="1" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="MsoTableGrid" style="border-collapse: collapse; border: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-padding-alt: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-yfti-tbllook: 1184;">
<tbody>
<tr style="mso-yfti-firstrow: yes; mso-yfti-irow: 0;">
<td style="border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 185.75pt;" valign="top" width="248"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Name
: date</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-left: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 40.25pt;" valign="top" width="54"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Men</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-left: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 47.55pt;" valign="top" width="63"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Women</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-left: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 58.25pt;" valign="top" width="78"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Children</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-left: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 87.6pt;" valign="top" width="117"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Other
resources</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-left: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 59.4pt;" valign="top" width="79"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Suspect</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 1;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 185.75pt;" valign="top" width="248"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Allegory
of Gluttony and Lust 1500-</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 40.25pt;" valign="top" width="54"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">1</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 47.55pt;" valign="top" width="63"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 58.25pt;" valign="top" width="78"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 87.6pt;" valign="top" width="117"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">M</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 59.4pt;" valign="top" width="79"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Y</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 2;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 185.75pt;" valign="top" width="248"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">The
Conjurer 1502</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 40.25pt;" valign="top" width="54"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">3</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 47.55pt;" valign="top" width="63"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">3</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 58.25pt;" valign="top" width="78"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">1</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 87.6pt;" valign="top" width="117"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Y</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 59.4pt;" valign="top" width="79"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">M</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 3;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 185.75pt;" valign="top" width="248"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Death
and the Miser 1494+ </span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 40.25pt;" valign="top" width="54"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">1</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 47.55pt;" valign="top" width="63"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
N</div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 58.25pt;" valign="top" width="78"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
N</div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 87.6pt;" valign="top" width="117"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">M</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 59.4pt;" valign="top" width="79"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Y</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 4;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 185.75pt;" valign="top" width="248"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Head
of a Halberdier<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>N/a</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 40.25pt;" valign="top" width="54"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">1</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 47.55pt;" valign="top" width="63"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
N</div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 58.25pt;" valign="top" width="78"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
N</div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 87.6pt;" valign="top" width="117"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Y</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 59.4pt;" valign="top" width="79"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 5;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 185.75pt;" valign="top" width="248"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Cutting
the Stone 1494+</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 40.25pt;" valign="top" width="54"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">3</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 47.55pt;" valign="top" width="63"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">1</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 58.25pt;" valign="top" width="78"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
N</div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 87.6pt;" valign="top" width="117"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">M</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 59.4pt;" valign="top" width="79"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Y</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 6; mso-yfti-lastrow: yes;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 185.75pt;" valign="top" width="248"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">The
Wayfarer/Pedlar<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>1500</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 40.25pt;" valign="top" width="54"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">2</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 47.55pt;" valign="top" width="63"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">1</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 58.25pt;" valign="top" width="78"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 87.6pt;" valign="top" width="117"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Y</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 59.4pt;" valign="top" width="79"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqIM3ye9ZUSGEm3sVHfpWwIlpa-sbbaSFcCpxjFhTjsGjDFWnjDoxeDcfrYMMu7_o_EztsoPwTvRLzgsl9H6vb7eUVmAWpFAX7k12LF2f4PqC49rJ-Jmk4jka3JNuuLMi5wTVYmLWg17M/s1600/Pieter_Bruegel_The_Peasant_Dance.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1094" data-original-width="1600" height="218" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqIM3ye9ZUSGEm3sVHfpWwIlpa-sbbaSFcCpxjFhTjsGjDFWnjDoxeDcfrYMMu7_o_EztsoPwTvRLzgsl9H6vb7eUVmAWpFAX7k12LF2f4PqC49rJ-Jmk4jka3JNuuLMi5wTVYmLWg17M/s320/Pieter_Bruegel_The_Peasant_Dance.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pieter_Bruegel_the_Elder#/media/File:Pieter_Bruegel_The_Peasant_Dance.jpg" target="_blank">The Peasant Dance 1568</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Pieter
Brueghel (the Elder); 1525-1569</span><br />
<table border="1" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="MsoTableGrid" style="border-collapse: collapse; border: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-padding-alt: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-table-layout-alt: fixed; mso-yfti-tbllook: 1184;">
<tbody>
<tr style="mso-yfti-firstrow: yes; mso-yfti-irow: 0;">
<td style="border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 176.9pt;" valign="top" width="236"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Name
: date</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-left: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 71.5pt;" valign="top" width="95"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Men</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-left: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 45.0pt;" valign="top" width="60"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Women</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-left: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 42.75pt;" valign="top" width="57"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Children</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-left: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 84.55pt;" valign="top" width="113"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Other
resources</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-left: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 58.1pt;" valign="top" width="77"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Suspect</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 1;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 176.9pt;" valign="top" width="236"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Parable
of the Sower<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 71.5pt;" valign="top" width="95"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">1</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 45.0pt;" valign="top" width="60"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
N</div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 42.75pt;" valign="top" width="57"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
N</div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 84.55pt;" valign="top" width="113"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 58.1pt;" valign="top" width="77"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 2;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 176.9pt;" valign="top" width="236"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">12
Allegories (Darstellungen niederländischer Sprichwörter des 16) 1558</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 71.5pt;" valign="top" width="95"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">11</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 45.0pt;" valign="top" width="60"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">1</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 42.75pt;" valign="top" width="57"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 84.55pt;" valign="top" width="113"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 58.1pt;" valign="top" width="77"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">M</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 3;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 176.9pt;" valign="top" width="236"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Netherlandish
Proverbs<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>1559</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 71.5pt;" valign="top" width="95"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">35</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 45.0pt;" valign="top" width="60"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">5</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 42.75pt;" valign="top" width="57"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">M</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 84.55pt;" valign="top" width="113"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">M</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 58.1pt;" valign="top" width="77"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">M</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 4;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 176.9pt;" valign="top" width="236"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">The
Fight Between Carnival and Lent 1559 </span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 71.5pt;" valign="top" width="95"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">47?</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 45.0pt;" valign="top" width="60"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">24?</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 42.75pt;" valign="top" width="57"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Some</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 84.55pt;" valign="top" width="113"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Y</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 58.1pt;" valign="top" width="77"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">M</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 5;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 176.9pt;" valign="top" width="236"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Children’s
Games 1560</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 71.5pt;" valign="top" width="95"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Many</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 45.0pt;" valign="top" width="60"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Many</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 42.75pt;" valign="top" width="57"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Even
more</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 84.55pt;" valign="top" width="113"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Y</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 58.1pt;" valign="top" width="77"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">M
</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 6;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 176.9pt;" valign="top" width="236"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Landscape
with the Fall of Icarus 1560</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 71.5pt;" valign="top" width="95"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">2</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 45.0pt;" valign="top" width="60"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 42.75pt;" valign="top" width="57"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 84.55pt;" valign="top" width="113"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">M</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 58.1pt;" valign="top" width="77"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 7;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 176.9pt;" valign="top" width="236"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">The
Triumph of Death 1662</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 71.5pt;" valign="top" width="95"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">20
(Germans </span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 45.0pt;" valign="top" width="60"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>5</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 42.75pt;" valign="top" width="57"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 84.55pt;" valign="top" width="113"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 58.1pt;" valign="top" width="77"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Y</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 8;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 176.9pt;" valign="top" width="236"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">The
Yawning Man 1560s </span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 71.5pt;" valign="top" width="95"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">1</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 45.0pt;" valign="top" width="60"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<br /></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 42.75pt;" valign="top" width="57"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<br /></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 84.55pt;" valign="top" width="113"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 58.1pt;" valign="top" width="77"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 9;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 176.9pt;" valign="top" width="236"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">The
Procession to Calvary 1564 </span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 71.5pt;" valign="top" width="95"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Lots</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 45.0pt;" valign="top" width="60"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Lots</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 42.75pt;" valign="top" width="57"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">n/a</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 84.55pt;" valign="top" width="113"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">M</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 58.1pt;" valign="top" width="77"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 10;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 176.9pt;" valign="top" width="236"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">The
Hunters in the Snow 1565 </span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 71.5pt;" valign="top" width="95"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">5</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 45.0pt;" valign="top" width="60"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">3</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 42.75pt;" valign="top" width="57"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">M</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 84.55pt;" valign="top" width="113"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 58.1pt;" valign="top" width="77"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 11;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 176.9pt;" valign="top" width="236"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">The
Return of the Herd 1565</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 71.5pt;" valign="top" width="95"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">6
(military</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 45.0pt;" valign="top" width="60"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 42.75pt;" valign="top" width="57"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 84.55pt;" valign="top" width="113"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 58.1pt;" valign="top" width="77"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 12;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 176.9pt;" valign="top" width="236"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">The
Hay Harvest/Haymaking 1565</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 71.5pt;" valign="top" width="95"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">8</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 45.0pt;" valign="top" width="60"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">7</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 42.75pt;" valign="top" width="57"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 84.55pt;" valign="top" width="113"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">M</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 58.1pt;" valign="top" width="77"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 13;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 176.9pt;" valign="top" width="236"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">The
Harvesters 1565 </span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 71.5pt;" valign="top" width="95"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">10</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 45.0pt;" valign="top" width="60"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">5</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 42.75pt;" valign="top" width="57"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 84.55pt;" valign="top" width="113"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Y</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 58.1pt;" valign="top" width="77"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 14;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 176.9pt;" valign="top" width="236"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">The
Gloomy Day 1565</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 71.5pt;" valign="top" width="95"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">3</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 45.0pt;" valign="top" width="60"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">2</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 42.75pt;" valign="top" width="57"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 84.55pt;" valign="top" width="113"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">M</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 58.1pt;" valign="top" width="77"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 15;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 176.9pt;" valign="top" width="236"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">The
Massacre of the Innocents<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>1560s?</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 71.5pt;" valign="top" width="95"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">17?</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 45.0pt;" valign="top" width="60"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">11</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 42.75pt;" valign="top" width="57"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Y</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 84.55pt;" valign="top" width="113"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 58.1pt;" valign="top" width="77"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">M</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 16;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 176.9pt;" valign="top" width="236"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Winter
Landscape with a Bird Trap 1565</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 71.5pt;" valign="top" width="95"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">21</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 45.0pt;" valign="top" width="60"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">5</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 42.75pt;" valign="top" width="57"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Y</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 84.55pt;" valign="top" width="113"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Skates,
games</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 58.1pt;" valign="top" width="77"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 17;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 176.9pt;" valign="top" width="236"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">The
Wine of Saint Martin's Day 1566</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 71.5pt;" valign="top" width="95"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">23+</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 45.0pt;" valign="top" width="60"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">2</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 42.75pt;" valign="top" width="57"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">M</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 84.55pt;" valign="top" width="113"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Y</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 58.1pt;" valign="top" width="77"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 18;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 176.9pt;" valign="top" width="236"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">The
Census at Bethlehem<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>1566</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 71.5pt;" valign="top" width="95"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">5</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 45.0pt;" valign="top" width="60"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">5</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 42.75pt;" valign="top" width="57"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">M</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 84.55pt;" valign="top" width="113"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 58.1pt;" valign="top" width="77"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 19;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 176.9pt;" valign="top" width="236"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">The
Land of Cockaigne<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>1567</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 71.5pt;" valign="top" width="95"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>3</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 45.0pt;" valign="top" width="60"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<br /></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 42.75pt;" valign="top" width="57"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<br /></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 84.55pt;" valign="top" width="113"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Y</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 58.1pt;" valign="top" width="77"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 20;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 176.9pt;" valign="top" width="236"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">The
Sermon of Saint John the Baptist<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>1566</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 71.5pt;" valign="top" width="95"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">A
few useful.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Rest are suspect</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 45.0pt;" valign="top" width="60"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Same.</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 42.75pt;" valign="top" width="57"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">M</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 84.55pt;" valign="top" width="113"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 58.1pt;" valign="top" width="77"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Y</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 21;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 176.9pt;" valign="top" width="236"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">The
Wedding Dance 1566</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 71.5pt;" valign="top" width="95"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">21+</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 45.0pt;" valign="top" width="60"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">11</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 42.75pt;" valign="top" width="57"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 84.55pt;" valign="top" width="113"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Y
(beer jugs, bagpipes. Knife</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 58.1pt;" valign="top" width="77"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 22;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 176.9pt;" valign="top" width="236"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Adoration
of the Kings in the Snow 1567</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 71.5pt;" valign="top" width="95"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Y.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>But not detailed.</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 45.0pt;" valign="top" width="60"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
N</div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 42.75pt;" valign="top" width="57"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
N</div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 84.55pt;" valign="top" width="113"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
N</div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 58.1pt;" valign="top" width="77"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
M</div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 23;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 176.9pt;" valign="top" width="236"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">The
Conversion of Paul 1567</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 71.5pt;" valign="top" width="95"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">6</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 45.0pt;" valign="top" width="60"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 42.75pt;" valign="top" width="57"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 84.55pt;" valign="top" width="113"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Military</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 58.1pt;" valign="top" width="77"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">M</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 24;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 176.9pt;" valign="top" width="236"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">The
Beggers 1568</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 71.5pt;" valign="top" width="95"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">5
(specifically beggers</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 45.0pt;" valign="top" width="60"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">1</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 42.75pt;" valign="top" width="57"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 84.55pt;" valign="top" width="113"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Crutches</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 58.1pt;" valign="top" width="77"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
N</div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 25;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 176.9pt;" valign="top" width="236"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">The
Three Soldiers</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 71.5pt;" valign="top" width="95"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">3
Germans</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 45.0pt;" valign="top" width="60"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 42.75pt;" valign="top" width="57"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 84.55pt;" valign="top" width="113"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Military/music</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 58.1pt;" valign="top" width="77"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 26;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 176.9pt;" valign="top" width="236"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">The
Magpie on the Gallows 1568</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 71.5pt;" valign="top" width="95"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">7</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 45.0pt;" valign="top" width="60"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">1</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 42.75pt;" valign="top" width="57"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 84.55pt;" valign="top" width="113"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 58.1pt;" valign="top" width="77"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 27;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 176.9pt;" valign="top" width="236"><div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="tab-stops: right 166.1pt;">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">The Parable of the Blind 1568<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span></span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 71.5pt;" valign="top" width="95"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">6
(has seams)</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 45.0pt;" valign="top" width="60"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 42.75pt;" valign="top" width="57"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 84.55pt;" valign="top" width="113"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 58.1pt;" valign="top" width="77"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 28;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 176.9pt;" valign="top" width="236"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">The
Misanthrope</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 71.5pt;" valign="top" width="95"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">2</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 45.0pt;" valign="top" width="60"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 42.75pt;" valign="top" width="57"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 84.55pt;" valign="top" width="113"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 58.1pt;" valign="top" width="77"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">M</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 29;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 176.9pt;" valign="top" width="236"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">The
Peasant Wedding 1567</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 71.5pt;" valign="top" width="95"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">17</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 45.0pt;" valign="top" width="60"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">8</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 42.75pt;" valign="top" width="57"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">M</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 84.55pt;" valign="top" width="113"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Pottery,
music,</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 58.1pt;" valign="top" width="77"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 30;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 176.9pt;" valign="top" width="236"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">The
Peasant Dance<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>1569</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 71.5pt;" valign="top" width="95"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">8</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 45.0pt;" valign="top" width="60"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">4</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 42.75pt;" valign="top" width="57"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Y</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 84.55pt;" valign="top" width="113"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Pottery</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 58.1pt;" valign="top" width="77"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 31;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 176.9pt;" valign="top" width="236"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">The
Peasant and the Nest Robber 15682</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 71.5pt;" valign="top" width="95"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">2</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 45.0pt;" valign="top" width="60"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 42.75pt;" valign="top" width="57"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 84.55pt;" valign="top" width="113"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">M</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 58.1pt;" valign="top" width="77"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 32; mso-yfti-lastrow: yes;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 176.9pt;" valign="top" width="236"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">The
Drunkard Pushed into the Pigsty</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 71.5pt;" valign="top" width="95"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">3</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 45.0pt;" valign="top" width="60"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">2</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 42.75pt;" valign="top" width="57"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 84.55pt;" valign="top" width="113"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Farm
stuff</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 58.1pt;" valign="top" width="77"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuam3_pcR7FSfC9tp7_f7HMDhvuziCVFSiZs05y_CDpLtv5aerznrdjwPLz_n-kncXUbBmf_ZeCk2DQ_w-GFbU4SrpUREaeMVtJrzE7NDIiyGmx_NkrI-L0claOjetLlDBbe1P9MRQ2Vg/s1600/1024px-Pieter_BRUEGHEL_Ii_-_The_tax-collector%2527s_office_-_Google_Art_Project.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="670" data-original-width="1024" height="209" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuam3_pcR7FSfC9tp7_f7HMDhvuziCVFSiZs05y_CDpLtv5aerznrdjwPLz_n-kncXUbBmf_ZeCk2DQ_w-GFbU4SrpUREaeMVtJrzE7NDIiyGmx_NkrI-L0claOjetLlDBbe1P9MRQ2Vg/s320/1024px-Pieter_BRUEGHEL_Ii_-_The_tax-collector%2527s_office_-_Google_Art_Project.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pieter_Brueghel_the_Younger#/media/File:Pieter_BRUEGHEL_Ii_-_The_tax-collector%27s_office_-_Google_Art_Project.jpg" target="_blank">The Village Lawyer 1615</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Pieter
Bruegel the Younger (II) 1564-1638. Much of his work was copying that of his father.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span><a href="http://www.artcyclopedia.com/artists/bruegel_the_younger_pieter.html"><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">http://www.artcyclopedia.com/artists/bruegel_the_younger_pieter.html</span></a><br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">
</span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";"> </span><br />
<table border="1" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="MsoTableGrid" style="border-collapse: collapse; border: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-padding-alt: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-yfti-tbllook: 1184;">
<tbody>
<tr style="mso-yfti-firstrow: yes; mso-yfti-irow: 0;">
<td style="border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 185.75pt;" valign="top" width="248"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Name
: date</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-left: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 40.25pt;" valign="top" width="54"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Men</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-left: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 47.55pt;" valign="top" width="63"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Women</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-left: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 58.25pt;" valign="top" width="78"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Children</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-left: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 87.6pt;" valign="top" width="117"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Other
resources</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-left: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 59.4pt;" valign="top" width="79"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Suspect</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 1;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 185.75pt;" valign="top" width="248"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Peasants
being Attacked by Bandits 16thcent</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 40.25pt;" valign="top" width="54"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">2
+ 2 german</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 47.55pt;" valign="top" width="63"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">1</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 58.25pt;" valign="top" width="78"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 87.6pt;" valign="top" width="117"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">M
(pluderhose!)</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 59.4pt;" valign="top" width="79"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">M</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 2;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 185.75pt;" valign="top" width="248"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Fair
with a Theatrical Presentation 17<sup>th</sup> cen. Based on an Elder
painting</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 40.25pt;" valign="top" width="54"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">70+</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 47.55pt;" valign="top" width="63"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Many</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 58.25pt;" valign="top" width="78"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Yes</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 87.6pt;" valign="top" width="117"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Lots!</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 59.4pt;" valign="top" width="79"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 3;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 185.75pt;" valign="top" width="248"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">The
Peasant Wedding</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 40.25pt;" valign="top" width="54"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">16+</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 47.55pt;" valign="top" width="63"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">12</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 58.25pt;" valign="top" width="78"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Y</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 87.6pt;" valign="top" width="117"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Y</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 59.4pt;" valign="top" width="79"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 4;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 185.75pt;" valign="top" width="248"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Fighting
Peasants</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 40.25pt;" valign="top" width="54"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">5</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 47.55pt;" valign="top" width="63"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">2</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 58.25pt;" valign="top" width="78"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 87.6pt;" valign="top" width="117"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Y</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 59.4pt;" valign="top" width="79"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">M</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 5;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 185.75pt;" valign="top" width="248"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Summer
with Peasants at a Meal</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 40.25pt;" valign="top" width="54"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">6</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 47.55pt;" valign="top" width="63"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">2</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 58.25pt;" valign="top" width="78"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">M</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 87.6pt;" valign="top" width="117"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Y</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 59.4pt;" valign="top" width="79"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">M</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 6; mso-yfti-lastrow: yes;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 185.75pt;" valign="top" width="248"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">The Village Lawyer 1615?</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 40.25pt;" valign="top" width="54"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">9</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 47.55pt;" valign="top" width="63"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">1 </span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 58.25pt;" valign="top" width="78"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 87.6pt;" valign="top" width="117"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">M </span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 59.4pt;" valign="top" width="79"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N </span></div>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
</div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
</div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
</div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
</div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
</div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
</div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixnWwdjhhecGoFqR-aLQ8BWGWiIc0wOeUFUtbrs7oTb1vFRV4Xl9zJ9ZIriFwR2PzzM8HXv-FPWzxtpN4mayL-XmpXTRxRRqmG5672q8WjsfevlGEBAbDnjdv_psrLs3B_SIXYLUBomnk/s1600/display_image.php.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="906" data-original-width="1280" height="226" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixnWwdjhhecGoFqR-aLQ8BWGWiIc0wOeUFUtbrs7oTb1vFRV4Xl9zJ9ZIriFwR2PzzM8HXv-FPWzxtpN4mayL-XmpXTRxRRqmG5672q8WjsfevlGEBAbDnjdv_psrLs3B_SIXYLUBomnk/s320/display_image.php.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.the-athenaeum.org/art/detail.php?ID=303136" target="_blank">Market Scene 1566</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Joachim
Beuckelaer 1533-1574 (</span><a href="https://www.the-athenaeum.org/art/list.php?m=a&s=tu&aid=6281"><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">https://www.the-athenaeum.org/art/list.php?m=a&s=tu&aid=6281</span></a><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";"> </span>
</div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Clothing
styles is somewhat different in form from Brueghel, likely because of the
dating, since both he and Beuckelaer were native to and painting in and around
Antwerp. </span></div>
<table border="1" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="MsoTableGrid" style="border-collapse: collapse; border: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-padding-alt: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-table-layout-alt: fixed; mso-yfti-tbllook: 1184;">
<tbody>
<tr style="mso-yfti-firstrow: yes; mso-yfti-irow: 0;">
<td style="border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 182.25pt;" valign="top" width="243"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Name
: date</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-left: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 43.75pt;" valign="top" width="58"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Men</span></div>
</td>
<td colspan="2" style="border-left: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 48.35pt;" valign="top" width="64"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Women</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-left: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 53.75pt;" valign="top" width="72"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Children</span></div>
</td>
<td colspan="2" style="border-left: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 91.75pt;" valign="top" width="122"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Other
resources</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-left: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 58.95pt;" valign="top" width="79"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Suspect</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 1;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 182.25pt;" valign="top" width="243"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Allegory
of Imprudence</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 43.75pt;" valign="top" width="58"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">1</span></div>
</td>
<td colspan="2" style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 48.35pt;" valign="top" width="64"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">4</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 53.75pt;" valign="top" width="72"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">1</span></div>
</td>
<td colspan="2" style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 91.75pt;" valign="top" width="122"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Domestic</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 58.95pt;" valign="top" width="79"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 2;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 182.25pt;" valign="top" width="243"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Brother
1562</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 43.75pt;" valign="top" width="58"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">5</span></div>
</td>
<td colspan="2" style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 48.35pt;" valign="top" width="64"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">5</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 53.75pt;" valign="top" width="72"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
<td colspan="2" style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 91.75pt;" valign="top" width="122"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Tavern</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 58.95pt;" valign="top" width="79"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 3;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 182.25pt;" valign="top" width="243"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">The
Butcher’s Shop</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 43.75pt;" valign="top" width="58"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">3</span></div>
</td>
<td colspan="2" style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 48.35pt;" valign="top" width="64"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">2</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 53.75pt;" valign="top" width="72"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
<td colspan="2" style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 91.75pt;" valign="top" width="122"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Y</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 58.95pt;" valign="top" width="79"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 4;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 182.25pt;" valign="top" width="243"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Christ
Carrying the Cross 1562</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 43.75pt;" valign="top" width="58"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Y</span></div>
</td>
<td colspan="2" style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 48.35pt;" valign="top" width="64"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Y</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 53.75pt;" valign="top" width="72"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Y</span></div>
</td>
<td colspan="2" style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 91.75pt;" valign="top" width="122"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Military</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 58.95pt;" valign="top" width="79"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Y</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 5;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 182.25pt;" valign="top" width="243"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Christ
in the house of Martha 1565</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 43.75pt;" valign="top" width="58"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">1</span></div>
</td>
<td colspan="2" style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 48.35pt;" valign="top" width="64"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">2</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 53.75pt;" valign="top" width="72"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
<td colspan="2" style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 91.75pt;" valign="top" width="122"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Y</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 58.95pt;" valign="top" width="79"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 6;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 182.25pt;" valign="top" width="243"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Christ
in the House of Martha and Mary 1560</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 43.75pt;" valign="top" width="58"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
<td colspan="2" style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 48.35pt;" valign="top" width="64"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">2</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 53.75pt;" valign="top" width="72"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
<td colspan="2" style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 91.75pt;" valign="top" width="122"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Y</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 58.95pt;" valign="top" width="79"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 7;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 182.25pt;" valign="top" width="243"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Christ
Presented to the People 1562</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 43.75pt;" valign="top" width="58"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">4</span></div>
</td>
<td colspan="2" style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 48.35pt;" valign="top" width="64"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">6+</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 53.75pt;" valign="top" width="72"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Y</span></div>
</td>
<td colspan="2" style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 91.75pt;" valign="top" width="122"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Y</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 58.95pt;" valign="top" width="79"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">M</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 8;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 182.25pt;" valign="top" width="243"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">A
Dutch Kitchen Scene </span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 43.75pt;" valign="top" width="58"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">2</span></div>
</td>
<td colspan="2" style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 48.35pt;" valign="top" width="64"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">2</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 53.75pt;" valign="top" width="72"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
<td colspan="2" style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 91.75pt;" valign="top" width="122"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Y</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 58.95pt;" valign="top" width="79"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 9;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 182.25pt;" valign="top" width="243"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">The
Fish Market 1568</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 43.75pt;" valign="top" width="58"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">1</span></div>
</td>
<td colspan="2" style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 48.35pt;" valign="top" width="64"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">3</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 53.75pt;" valign="top" width="72"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
<td colspan="2" style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 91.75pt;" valign="top" width="122"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Y</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 58.95pt;" valign="top" width="79"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 10;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 182.25pt;" valign="top" width="243"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Fish
Market 1568</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 43.75pt;" valign="top" width="58"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">2</span></div>
</td>
<td colspan="2" style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 48.35pt;" valign="top" width="64"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">7</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 53.75pt;" valign="top" width="72"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
<td colspan="2" style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 91.75pt;" valign="top" width="122"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Basket/Plate</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 58.95pt;" valign="top" width="79"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 11;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 182.25pt;" valign="top" width="243"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Fish
Market </span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 43.75pt;" valign="top" width="58"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">1</span></div>
</td>
<td colspan="2" style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 48.35pt;" valign="top" width="64"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">4</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 53.75pt;" valign="top" width="72"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
<td colspan="2" style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 91.75pt;" valign="top" width="122"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Y</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 58.95pt;" valign="top" width="79"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 12;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 182.25pt;" valign="top" width="243"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">The
Fish Market </span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 43.75pt;" valign="top" width="58"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">1</span></div>
</td>
<td colspan="2" style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 48.35pt;" valign="top" width="64"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">2</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 53.75pt;" valign="top" width="72"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
<td colspan="2" style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 91.75pt;" valign="top" width="122"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Y</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 58.95pt;" valign="top" width="79"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 13;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 182.25pt;" valign="top" width="243"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Fish
Market with Ecce Homo</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 43.75pt;" valign="top" width="58"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">3</span></div>
</td>
<td colspan="2" style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 48.35pt;" valign="top" width="64"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">6</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 53.75pt;" valign="top" width="72"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
<td colspan="2" style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 91.75pt;" valign="top" width="122"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Y</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 58.95pt;" valign="top" width="79"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 14;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 182.25pt;" valign="top" width="243"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">The
Flight into Egypt </span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 43.75pt;" valign="top" width="58"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">8</span></div>
</td>
<td colspan="2" style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 48.35pt;" valign="top" width="64"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">4</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 53.75pt;" valign="top" width="72"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
<td colspan="2" style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 91.75pt;" valign="top" width="122"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Y</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 58.95pt;" valign="top" width="79"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 15;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 182.25pt;" valign="top" width="243"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">The
Four Elements: Air 1570</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 43.75pt;" valign="top" width="58"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">1</span></div>
</td>
<td colspan="2" style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 48.35pt;" valign="top" width="64"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">5</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 53.75pt;" valign="top" width="72"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
<td colspan="2" style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 91.75pt;" valign="top" width="122"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Y</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 58.95pt;" valign="top" width="79"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 16;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 182.25pt;" valign="top" width="243"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">The
four Elements: Earth 1569</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 43.75pt;" valign="top" width="58"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">1</span></div>
</td>
<td colspan="2" style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 48.35pt;" valign="top" width="64"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">3</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 53.75pt;" valign="top" width="72"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
<td colspan="2" style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 91.75pt;" valign="top" width="122"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Baskets/produce</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 58.95pt;" valign="top" width="79"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 17;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 182.25pt;" valign="top" width="243"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">The
four Elements: Fire 1570</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 43.75pt;" valign="top" width="58"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">1</span></div>
</td>
<td colspan="2" style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 48.35pt;" valign="top" width="64"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">4</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 53.75pt;" valign="top" width="72"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
<td colspan="2" style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 91.75pt;" valign="top" width="122"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Y</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 58.95pt;" valign="top" width="79"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 18;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 182.25pt;" valign="top" width="243"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">The
four elements: Water 1569</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 43.75pt;" valign="top" width="58"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">1</span></div>
</td>
<td colspan="2" style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 48.35pt;" valign="top" width="64"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">6</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 53.75pt;" valign="top" width="72"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
<td colspan="2" style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 91.75pt;" valign="top" width="122"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">M</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 58.95pt;" valign="top" width="79"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 19;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 182.25pt;" valign="top" width="243"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">The
Healing of the Lame at the pool of Bethesda<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>1562</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 43.75pt;" valign="top" width="58"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Y</span></div>
</td>
<td colspan="2" style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 48.35pt;" valign="top" width="64"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Y</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 53.75pt;" valign="top" width="72"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">M</span></div>
</td>
<td colspan="2" style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 91.75pt;" valign="top" width="122"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">M</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 58.95pt;" valign="top" width="79"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Y</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 20;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 182.25pt;" valign="top" width="243"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">A
Kitchen Interior </span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 43.75pt;" valign="top" width="58"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">1
(Noble</span></div>
</td>
<td colspan="2" style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 48.35pt;" valign="top" width="64"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">3</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 53.75pt;" valign="top" width="72"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">1</span></div>
</td>
<td colspan="2" style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 91.75pt;" valign="top" width="122"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Y</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 58.95pt;" valign="top" width="79"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 21;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 182.25pt;" valign="top" width="243"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Kitchen
Scene with Christ in the House of Martha and Mary 1565</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 43.75pt;" valign="top" width="58"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">2</span></div>
</td>
<td colspan="2" style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 48.35pt;" valign="top" width="64"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">3</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 53.75pt;" valign="top" width="72"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
<td colspan="2" style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 91.75pt;" valign="top" width="122"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Y</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 58.95pt;" valign="top" width="79"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 22;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 182.25pt;" valign="top" width="243"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">L'enfant
prodigue</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 43.75pt;" valign="top" width="58"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">1
(not LC)</span></div>
</td>
<td colspan="2" style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 48.35pt;" valign="top" width="64"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">3</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 53.75pt;" valign="top" width="72"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
<td colspan="2" style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 91.75pt;" valign="top" width="122"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Y</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 58.95pt;" valign="top" width="79"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 23;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 182.25pt;" valign="top" width="243"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Market
couple 1560s</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 43.75pt;" valign="top" width="58"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">1</span></div>
</td>
<td colspan="2" style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 48.35pt;" valign="top" width="64"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">1</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 53.75pt;" valign="top" width="72"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
<td colspan="2" style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 91.75pt;" valign="top" width="122"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Y</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 58.95pt;" valign="top" width="79"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 24;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 182.25pt;" valign="top" width="243"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Market
Farmers 1561</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 43.75pt;" valign="top" width="58"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
<td colspan="2" style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 48.35pt;" valign="top" width="64"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">2</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 53.75pt;" valign="top" width="72"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
<td colspan="2" style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 91.75pt;" valign="top" width="122"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Y</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 58.95pt;" valign="top" width="79"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 25;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 182.25pt;" valign="top" width="243"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Market
Peasants 1566</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 43.75pt;" valign="top" width="58"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">1</span></div>
</td>
<td colspan="2" style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 48.35pt;" valign="top" width="64"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">2</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 53.75pt;" valign="top" width="72"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
<td colspan="2" style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 91.75pt;" valign="top" width="122"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Yy</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 58.95pt;" valign="top" width="79"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 26;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 182.25pt;" valign="top" width="243"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Market
Scene </span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 43.75pt;" valign="top" width="58"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">10+</span></div>
</td>
<td colspan="2" style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 48.35pt;" valign="top" width="64"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">4</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 53.75pt;" valign="top" width="72"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
<td colspan="2" style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 91.75pt;" valign="top" width="122"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Y</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 58.95pt;" valign="top" width="79"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 27;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 182.25pt;" valign="top" width="243"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Market
Scene 1566</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 43.75pt;" valign="top" width="58"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">2</span></div>
</td>
<td colspan="2" style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 48.35pt;" valign="top" width="64"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">2</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 53.75pt;" valign="top" width="72"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
<td colspan="2" style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 91.75pt;" valign="top" width="122"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Y</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 58.95pt;" valign="top" width="79"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 28;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 182.25pt;" valign="top" width="243"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Market
Scene 1564 </span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 43.75pt;" valign="top" width="58"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">1</span></div>
</td>
<td colspan="2" style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 48.35pt;" valign="top" width="64"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">2</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 53.75pt;" valign="top" width="72"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
<td colspan="2" style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 91.75pt;" valign="top" width="122"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Y</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 58.95pt;" valign="top" width="79"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 29;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 182.25pt;" valign="top" width="243"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Market
Scene 1563</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 43.75pt;" valign="top" width="58"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">1</span></div>
</td>
<td colspan="2" style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 48.35pt;" valign="top" width="64"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">2</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 53.75pt;" valign="top" width="72"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
<td colspan="2" style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 91.75pt;" valign="top" width="122"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Y</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 58.95pt;" valign="top" width="79"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 30;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 182.25pt;" valign="top" width="243"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Market
Scene 1565 </span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 43.75pt;" valign="top" width="58"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">1</span></div>
</td>
<td colspan="2" style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 48.35pt;" valign="top" width="64"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">2</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 53.75pt;" valign="top" width="72"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
<td colspan="2" style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 91.75pt;" valign="top" width="122"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Y</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 58.95pt;" valign="top" width="79"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 31;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 182.25pt;" valign="top" width="243"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Market
Scene, Ecce Homo, the Flagellation and the Carrying of the Cross</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 43.75pt;" valign="top" width="58"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">8</span></div>
</td>
<td colspan="2" style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 48.35pt;" valign="top" width="64"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">7</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 53.75pt;" valign="top" width="72"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Y</span></div>
</td>
<td colspan="2" style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 91.75pt;" valign="top" width="122"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Y</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 58.95pt;" valign="top" width="79"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 32;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 182.25pt;" valign="top" width="243"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Market
Scene, Ecce Homo, the Flagellation and the Carrying of the Cross 1561</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 43.75pt;" valign="top" width="58"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">6</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 47.55pt;" valign="top" width="63"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">11</span></div>
</td>
<td colspan="2" style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 54.55pt;" valign="top" width="73"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Y</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 91.3pt;" valign="top" width="122"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Y</span></div>
</td>
<td colspan="2" style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 59.4pt;" valign="top" width="79"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 33;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 182.25pt;" valign="top" width="243"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Market
Scene with a Poultry Seller </span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 43.75pt;" valign="top" width="58"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">1</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 47.55pt;" valign="top" width="63"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">2</span></div>
</td>
<td colspan="2" style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 54.55pt;" valign="top" width="73"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 91.3pt;" valign="top" width="122"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Y</span></div>
</td>
<td colspan="2" style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 59.4pt;" valign="top" width="79"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 34;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 182.25pt;" valign="top" width="243"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Market
with Ecce Homo<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>1561</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 43.75pt;" valign="top" width="58"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">16</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 47.55pt;" valign="top" width="63"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">4</span></div>
</td>
<td colspan="2" style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 54.55pt;" valign="top" width="73"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">M</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 91.3pt;" valign="top" width="122"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Y</span></div>
</td>
<td colspan="2" style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 59.4pt;" valign="top" width="79"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">n</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 35;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 182.25pt;" valign="top" width="243"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Miraculous
Drought of Fishes 1563</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 43.75pt;" valign="top" width="58"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">20</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 47.55pt;" valign="top" width="63"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">4</span></div>
</td>
<td colspan="2" style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 54.55pt;" valign="top" width="73"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 91.3pt;" valign="top" width="122"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Baskets</span></div>
</td>
<td colspan="2" style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 59.4pt;" valign="top" width="79"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 36;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 182.25pt;" valign="top" width="243"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Poultry
Market</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 43.75pt;" valign="top" width="58"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">1</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 47.55pt;" valign="top" width="63"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">2</span></div>
</td>
<td colspan="2" style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 54.55pt;" valign="top" width="73"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 91.3pt;" valign="top" width="122"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Y</span></div>
</td>
<td colspan="2" style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 59.4pt;" valign="top" width="79"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 37;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 182.25pt;" valign="top" width="243"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">The
Poultry Seller</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 43.75pt;" valign="top" width="58"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">1</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 47.55pt;" valign="top" width="63"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">2</span></div>
</td>
<td colspan="2" style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 54.55pt;" valign="top" width="73"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 91.3pt;" valign="top" width="122"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Y</span></div>
</td>
<td colspan="2" style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 59.4pt;" valign="top" width="79"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 38;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 182.25pt;" valign="top" width="243"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Poultry
Seller<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>1570</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 43.75pt;" valign="top" width="58"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">1</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 47.55pt;" valign="top" width="63"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">1</span></div>
</td>
<td colspan="2" style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 54.55pt;" valign="top" width="73"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 91.3pt;" valign="top" width="122"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Y</span></div>
</td>
<td colspan="2" style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 59.4pt;" valign="top" width="79"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 39;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 182.25pt;" valign="top" width="243"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Poultry
Sellers 1570 </span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 43.75pt;" valign="top" width="58"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">2</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 47.55pt;" valign="top" width="63"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">2</span></div>
</td>
<td colspan="2" style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 54.55pt;" valign="top" width="73"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 91.3pt;" valign="top" width="122"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Y</span></div>
</td>
<td colspan="2" style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 59.4pt;" valign="top" width="79"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">n</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 40;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 182.25pt;" valign="top" width="243"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">The
Sellers of Exotic Animals 1566</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 43.75pt;" valign="top" width="58"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">2</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 47.55pt;" valign="top" width="63"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">2</span></div>
</td>
<td colspan="2" style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 54.55pt;" valign="top" width="73"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 91.3pt;" valign="top" width="122"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Baskets,
animals, veggies</span></div>
</td>
<td colspan="2" style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 59.4pt;" valign="top" width="79"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 41;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 182.25pt;" valign="top" width="243"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">The
Vegetable Market<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>1567</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 43.75pt;" valign="top" width="58"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">2</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 47.55pt;" valign="top" width="63"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">3</span></div>
</td>
<td colspan="2" style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 54.55pt;" valign="top" width="73"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 91.3pt;" valign="top" width="122"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Y</span></div>
</td>
<td colspan="2" style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 59.4pt;" valign="top" width="79"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 42;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 182.25pt;" valign="top" width="243"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">The
Well-Stocked Kitchen, with Jesus in the house of Martha and Mary in the
Background 1566</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 43.75pt;" valign="top" width="58"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">2?</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 47.55pt;" valign="top" width="63"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">2</span></div>
</td>
<td colspan="2" style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 54.55pt;" valign="top" width="73"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 91.3pt;" valign="top" width="122"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Y</span></div>
</td>
<td colspan="2" style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 59.4pt;" valign="top" width="79"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 43;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 182.25pt;" valign="top" width="243"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Woman
Selling Vegetables </span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 43.75pt;" valign="top" width="58"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">1</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 47.55pt;" valign="top" width="63"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">1</span></div>
</td>
<td colspan="2" style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 54.55pt;" valign="top" width="73"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 91.3pt;" valign="top" width="122"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Y</span></div>
</td>
<td colspan="2" style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 59.4pt;" valign="top" width="79"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 44; mso-yfti-lastrow: yes;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 182.25pt;" valign="top" width="243"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Village
Feast </span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 43.75pt;" valign="top" width="58"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">5ish</span></div>
</td>
<td colspan="2" style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 48.35pt;" valign="top" width="64"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">6</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 53.75pt;" valign="top" width="72"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 91.3pt;" valign="top" width="122"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
<td colspan="2" style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 59.4pt;" valign="top" width="79"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglY_NHeprQocGajwDJ-r87gupxfQrKo4WQ0NuK5r7sLuNuWwtrIRmBYfSN8sa_LvcGYD9zCLUxST7uiYbP4AHGgEJjtu72y5ZJcO-Ili0KrWm1J7Cx8lF1PLHp41B8kSH8CRWn91u9shI/s1600/Card+Players.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="701" data-original-width="944" height="237" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglY_NHeprQocGajwDJ-r87gupxfQrKo4WQ0NuK5r7sLuNuWwtrIRmBYfSN8sa_LvcGYD9zCLUxST7uiYbP4AHGgEJjtu72y5ZJcO-Ili0KrWm1J7Cx8lF1PLHp41B8kSH8CRWn91u9shI/s320/Card+Players.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.the-athenaeum.org/art/detail.php?ID=139509" target="_blank">The Card Players</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Lucas
van Leyden (1494-1533).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><a href="https://www.the-athenaeum.org/art/list.php?m=a&s=tu&aid=6960">https://www.the-athenaeum.org/art/list.php?m=a&s=tu&aid=6960</a>
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span>
<br />
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">He
seems to be focusing on upper middle class.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Style is low countries, but not peasants.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Some interesting hats in there.</span></div>
<table border="1" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="MsoTableGrid" style="border-collapse: collapse; border: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-padding-alt: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-yfti-tbllook: 1184;">
<tbody>
<tr style="mso-yfti-firstrow: yes; mso-yfti-irow: 0;">
<td style="border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 185.75pt;" valign="top" width="248"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Name
: date</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-left: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 40.25pt;" valign="top" width="54"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Men</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-left: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 47.55pt;" valign="top" width="63"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Women</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-left: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 58.25pt;" valign="top" width="78"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Children</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-left: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 87.6pt;" valign="top" width="117"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Other
resources</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-left: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 59.4pt;" valign="top" width="79"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Suspect</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 1;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 185.75pt;" valign="top" width="248"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">The
Card Players<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>(Upper Middle Class|UMC)</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 40.25pt;" valign="top" width="54"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">5</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 47.55pt;" valign="top" width="63"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">4</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 58.25pt;" valign="top" width="78"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 87.6pt;" valign="top" width="117"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Gaming.
</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 59.4pt;" valign="top" width="79"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 2;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 185.75pt;" valign="top" width="248"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">The
Card Players (1520) (UMC)</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 40.25pt;" valign="top" width="54"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">2</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 47.55pt;" valign="top" width="63"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">1</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 58.25pt;" valign="top" width="78"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 87.6pt;" valign="top" width="117"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Gaming</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 59.4pt;" valign="top" width="79"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 3;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 185.75pt;" valign="top" width="248"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Christ
Healing the Blind (1531 (UMC</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 40.25pt;" valign="top" width="54"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">12</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 47.55pt;" valign="top" width="63"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">4+</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 58.25pt;" valign="top" width="78"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Kinda</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 87.6pt;" valign="top" width="117"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Y</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 59.4pt;" valign="top" width="79"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Y
(Religious)</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 4;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 185.75pt;" valign="top" width="248"><div class="MsoNoSpacing" style="tab-stops: 132.45pt;">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">The Dentist - 1523<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span></span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 40.25pt;" valign="top" width="54"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">2</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 47.55pt;" valign="top" width="63"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">1</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 58.25pt;" valign="top" width="78"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 87.6pt;" valign="top" width="117"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Y</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 59.4pt;" valign="top" width="79">N</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 5;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 185.75pt;" valign="top" width="248"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">The
Fortune-Teller 1508 (UMC)</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 40.25pt;" valign="top" width="54"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">4</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 47.55pt;" valign="top" width="63"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">2</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 58.25pt;" valign="top" width="78"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 87.6pt;" valign="top" width="117"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">M</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 59.4pt;" valign="top" width="79"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 6;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 185.75pt;" valign="top" width="248"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">The
Game of Chess 1520ish (UMC)</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 40.25pt;" valign="top" width="54"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">8</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 47.55pt;" valign="top" width="63"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">2</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 58.25pt;" valign="top" width="78"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 87.6pt;" valign="top" width="117"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">M</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 59.4pt;" valign="top" width="79"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 7;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 185.75pt;" valign="top" width="248"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Joseph
Explains Pharaoh’s Dream 1512 (UMC)</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 40.25pt;" valign="top" width="54"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">7+</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 47.55pt;" valign="top" width="63"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 58.25pt;" valign="top" width="78"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 87.6pt;" valign="top" width="117"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Y</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 59.4pt;" valign="top" width="79"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">M</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 8; mso-yfti-lastrow: yes;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 185.75pt;" valign="top" width="248"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">The
Milkmaid 1510 </span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 40.25pt;" valign="top" width="54"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">1</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 47.55pt;" valign="top" width="63"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">1</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 58.25pt;" valign="top" width="78"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 87.6pt;" valign="top" width="117"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Y</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 59.4pt;" valign="top" width="79"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
</div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
</div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOKRvRUd8plNfILgapS0KXkZ-enL5cM6OrFVllb4lOu6i-eOTKLe5kfHcbS6mZrvO2-bAfFVM6BGjHeRVSXYWs5z-GplcJK_g1gnT1zz3tBe6mBIjf-B_L8VDD5PQGdCTEqVqCX_pT8IM/s1600/Moneylender.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1243" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOKRvRUd8plNfILgapS0KXkZ-enL5cM6OrFVllb4lOu6i-eOTKLe5kfHcbS6mZrvO2-bAfFVM6BGjHeRVSXYWs5z-GplcJK_g1gnT1zz3tBe6mBIjf-B_L8VDD5PQGdCTEqVqCX_pT8IM/s320/Moneylender.jpg" width="308" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.the-athenaeum.org/art/detail.php?ID=121781" target="_blank">The Moneylender and His Wife</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Quentin
Matsys (1466-1530).<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Tends to the religious
and satirical, so proportions may be suspect.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>Focused on the Burgher class when not religious. <a href="https://www.the-athenaeum.org/art/list.php?m=a&s=tu&aid=6200">https://www.the-athenaeum.org/art/list.php?m=a&s=tu&aid=6200</a></span></div>
<table border="1" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="MsoTableGrid" style="border-collapse: collapse; border: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-padding-alt: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-yfti-tbllook: 1184;">
<tbody>
<tr style="mso-yfti-firstrow: yes; mso-yfti-irow: 0;">
<td style="border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 185.75pt;" valign="top" width="248"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Name
: date</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-left: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 40.25pt;" valign="top" width="54"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Men</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-left: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 47.55pt;" valign="top" width="63"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Women</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-left: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 58.25pt;" valign="top" width="78"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Children</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-left: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 87.6pt;" valign="top" width="117"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Other
resources</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-left: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 59.4pt;" valign="top" width="79"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Suspect</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 1;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 185.75pt;" valign="top" width="248"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Cannot
Stephen Gardiner 1510 (UMC)</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 40.25pt;" valign="top" width="54"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">1</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 47.55pt;" valign="top" width="63"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
N</div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 58.25pt;" valign="top" width="78"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
N</div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 87.6pt;" valign="top" width="117"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
N</div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 59.4pt;" valign="top" width="79"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">n</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 2; mso-yfti-lastrow: yes;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 185.75pt;" valign="top" width="248"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">The
Moneylender and his Wife (UMC)</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 40.25pt;" valign="top" width="54"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">1</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 47.55pt;" valign="top" width="63"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">1</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 58.25pt;" valign="top" width="78"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 87.6pt;" valign="top" width="117"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Y</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 59.4pt;" valign="top" width="79"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
</div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
</div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJS3mJLWfuqUsXXXWK7S0gF8U_KSK_YjDMUQ0MQQAs0Se_apb74uwYYCxu6hnLn01wwKrIWriBb6Wr7LrTGdaK_D5a9JQRC2s34c2mCQDahiZrHbb9yf1AlM4GNMH9y4YDC2hRcIc9yQ8/s1600/Expulsion+of+Hagar.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1121" data-original-width="1599" height="224" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJS3mJLWfuqUsXXXWK7S0gF8U_KSK_YjDMUQ0MQQAs0Se_apb74uwYYCxu6hnLn01wwKrIWriBb6Wr7LrTGdaK_D5a9JQRC2s34c2mCQDahiZrHbb9yf1AlM4GNMH9y4YDC2hRcIc9yQ8/s320/Expulsion+of+Hagar.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.the-athenaeum.org/art/detail.php?ID=138700" target="_blank">The Expulsion of Hagar</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Jan
Mostaert 1475-1555.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Mostly religious and
portraits.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>But there are a couple of
undergarments shown in the ones noted down.<span style="mso-tab-count: 1;"> </span></span></div>
<table border="1" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="MsoTableGrid" style="border-collapse: collapse; border: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-padding-alt: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-yfti-tbllook: 1184;">
<tbody>
<tr style="mso-yfti-firstrow: yes; mso-yfti-irow: 0;">
<td style="border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 185.75pt;" valign="top" width="248"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Name
: date</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-left: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 40.25pt;" valign="top" width="54"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Men</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-left: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 47.55pt;" valign="top" width="63"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Women</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-left: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 58.25pt;" valign="top" width="78"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Children</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-left: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 87.6pt;" valign="top" width="117"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Other
resources</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-left: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 59.4pt;" valign="top" width="79"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Suspect</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 1;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 185.75pt;" valign="top" width="248"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">The
Expulsion of Hagar 1522 (Flemish lady</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 40.25pt;" valign="top" width="54"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">1
</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 47.55pt;" valign="top" width="63"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">1</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 58.25pt;" valign="top" width="78"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">1</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 87.6pt;" valign="top" width="117"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Y</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 59.4pt;" valign="top" width="79"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
Y</div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 2;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 185.75pt;" valign="top" width="248"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Ecce
Homo (Useful for shirt)</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 40.25pt;" valign="top" width="54"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">2</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 47.55pt;" valign="top" width="63"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 58.25pt;" valign="top" width="78"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 87.6pt;" valign="top" width="117"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 59.4pt;" valign="top" width="79"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
Y</div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 3; mso-yfti-lastrow: yes;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 185.75pt;" valign="top" width="248"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Saint
Christopher in a river<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>landscape</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 40.25pt;" valign="top" width="54"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">2</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 47.55pt;" valign="top" width="63"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">1</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 58.25pt;" valign="top" width="78"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 87.6pt;" valign="top" width="117"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 59.4pt;" valign="top" width="79"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Y</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
</div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
</div>
<div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGHuzDlf1l890I6-NWKhgBSBJAb4cXwn90HVTbGL9OveLRb7yBNVo4B8NghpJlD83FzbPyZNYgJFUsQ6NfJMC8Fi8SeopsdENGgbBYiz5KZbgHBqQHwGMNjKovHnPeuRcXygxvGX39UwY/s1600/1997.69.1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="310" data-original-width="451" height="219" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGHuzDlf1l890I6-NWKhgBSBJAb4cXwn90HVTbGL9OveLRb7yBNVo4B8NghpJlD83FzbPyZNYgJFUsQ6NfJMC8Fi8SeopsdENGgbBYiz5KZbgHBqQHwGMNjKovHnPeuRcXygxvGX39UwY/s320/1997.69.1.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.nga.gov/collection/art-object-page.101549.html" target="_blank">The Stag Hunt</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Bernard
van Orley 1488-1541.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Mostly a designer
of stained glass and tapestries.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><a href="https://www.nga.gov/collection/artist-info.1758.html#works">https://www.nga.gov/collection/artist-info.1758.html#works</a></span></div>
<table border="1" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="MsoTableGrid" style="border-collapse: collapse; border: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-padding-alt: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-yfti-tbllook: 1184;">
<tbody>
<tr style="mso-yfti-firstrow: yes; mso-yfti-irow: 0;">
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<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Name
: date</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-left: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 40.25pt;" valign="top" width="54"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Men</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-left: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 47.55pt;" valign="top" width="63"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Women</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-left: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 58.25pt;" valign="top" width="78"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Children</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-left: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 87.6pt;" valign="top" width="117"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Other
resources</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-left: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 59.4pt;" valign="top" width="79"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Suspect</span></div>
</td>
</tr>
<tr style="mso-yfti-irow: 1; mso-yfti-lastrow: yes;">
<td style="border-top: none; border: solid windowtext 1.0pt; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 185.75pt;" valign="top" width="248"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">The
Hunts of Maximilian: The Stag Hunt (August) 1528. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>(<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">more Germanic)</i></span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 40.25pt;" valign="top" width="54"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">2</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 47.55pt;" valign="top" width="63"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 58.25pt;" valign="top" width="78"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">N</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 87.6pt;" valign="top" width="117"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
<span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">Y
(hunting</span></div>
</td>
<td style="border-bottom: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-left: none; border-right: solid windowtext 1.0pt; border-top: none; mso-border-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-left-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; mso-border-top-alt: solid windowtext .5pt; padding: 0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; width: 59.4pt;" valign="top" width="79"><div class="MsoNoSpacing">
M</div>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<br />
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</xml><![endif]-->Brann mac Finnchadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04614813862245766203noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2468874881802139741.post-46554017713576423792018-05-05T12:19:00.000-08:002018-05-05T12:19:38.640-08:00HSM #3 Comfort at Home: Moderator FavouritesI am late coming to this post, at least in part due to my job--but I finally have the time and energy to get it done; so apologies on how late it is. <br /><br />As a review, the Historical Sew Monthly (link to the right) challenge for March was Comfort at Home--clothing which would be worn /only/ or at least primarily around the house, either just as a comfortable alternative to more constrictive public clothing, or in order to work in. As I wrote the <a href="http://matsukazesewing.blogspot.com/2018/02/comfort-at-home-historical-sew-monthly.html" target="_blank">Inspiration Post </a>for it, the task of assembling the Moderator's Favourites post also fell to me. To qualify for the Moderator's Choice award (which admittedly gets you nothing but a mild fuzzy feeling), you needed to have your photo in the album by the end of the challenge month.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgK8d6OKApNHbepUl1z8ZRVAbFFbM-alP0Nbf0W_bXuX1zHJavIbTJ7iyWnfOq8UHg_OlRcsbJ5q_19asclIPM-V386vKT_9qn8Gpqfo0DWbszj2RX06KWPfnUkQCpll5g1NO4BW6wvohA/s1600/HSM-2018.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="470" data-original-width="375" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgK8d6OKApNHbepUl1z8ZRVAbFFbM-alP0Nbf0W_bXuX1zHJavIbTJ7iyWnfOq8UHg_OlRcsbJ5q_19asclIPM-V386vKT_9qn8Gpqfo0DWbszj2RX06KWPfnUkQCpll5g1NO4BW6wvohA/s320/HSM-2018.jpg" width="255" /></a></div>
<a name='more'></a>And sew, in no particular order--other than what I received the write-ups from my fellow admins in--here are the choices. Asides in <i>italics</i> are my comments, and the links go to the photo in the Facebook album (unless they wrote a blog post).<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
Kura: <a href="https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10160131735035511&set=oa.991501747667161&type=3&size=960%2C716" target="_blank">Ashley's 1830s Nightcap</a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJ9NsfUyNgBqNLft0hUaCmppewm9nj5nMYUvMeAej3u4N_fahLhHyJVA3NeX0cw64o1GYxJHsTPm2K4cDCkAEtpFwHHctMdGXd8NbBkKdRIjlOzExhgaRoSfB6A3yrV4VIN-rEsvujet4/s1600/29542872_10160131735035511_8571033131981290454_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="716" data-original-width="960" height="238" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJ9NsfUyNgBqNLft0hUaCmppewm9nj5nMYUvMeAej3u4N_fahLhHyJVA3NeX0cw64o1GYxJHsTPm2K4cDCkAEtpFwHHctMdGXd8NbBkKdRIjlOzExhgaRoSfB6A3yrV4VIN-rEsvujet4/s320/29542872_10160131735035511_8571033131981290454_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
I love the photo, it’s so cute. Not to mention I have crazy bed hair
issues which I think this cap would solve. I’m so gonna make one!<br />
<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
Leimomi: <a href="https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=1023486451149171&set=oa.991501747667161&type=3&theater" target="_blank">Raquel’s 1860s Victorian House Slippers</a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWATjYu1jD6Ucw1V5HcPMzVqdxleTjARwRQeZh78XcvjsDJZDcWsgV8RjMho5E4MAEzO8kLIx7gvgVFb0-zcVIPfp75mqlplpdZtl4qHc_OVty6u3Tn4hJ4ikq3BHMDJC8iRbX6VWdRBQ/s1600/29386394_1023486454482504_5058881651124207616_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1128" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWATjYu1jD6Ucw1V5HcPMzVqdxleTjARwRQeZh78XcvjsDJZDcWsgV8RjMho5E4MAEzO8kLIx7gvgVFb0-zcVIPfp75mqlplpdZtl4qHc_OVty6u3Tn4hJ4ikq3BHMDJC8iRbX6VWdRBQ/s320/29386394_1023486454482504_5058881651124207616_o.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
Not only are these little slippers absolutely charming, and made from
instructions of the era, but Raquel is actually wearing and using them.
Comfort at home - literally!<br />
<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
Kristina: <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BgEsuivnLfn/?taken-by=kikiface03" target="_blank">Chiara's 1750s Chemise</a></div>
<i>(No photo because Instagram won't allow me to snag it)</i> <br />
Chemises are the better nightgowns! Chiara made this beautiful chemise,
which can also work as a nightgown. Is there anything more comfortable
than a plain white chemise? And this one turned out really great!<br />
<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
Klára: <a href="https://sewingempire.wordpress.com/2018/04/08/hsm-3-a-regency-smock-apron/" target="_blank">Vanessa's Regency Smock Apron </a>(<i>link to full blog post write-up)</i></div>
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During history men often work outside house and relax at home, but for
women, house was place of daily chores, not resting place. Apron
represents very well women duties at home – It was used during cooking
and cleaning. More aprons were submitted for this challenge, but I like
this one for being based upon extant piece and for its utilitarian look.<br />
<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
Hana: <a href="https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10214767870768847&set=oa.991501747667161&type=3&theater" target="_blank">Tammy's Bedgown</a></div>
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There were several bedgowns in this challenge and I liked all of them
particularly this time around; I went with this one because I can always
be impressed with mad piecing skills!<br />
<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
Brann: <a href="https://thesewinggoatherd.blogspot.com/2018/04/making-1888-ladies-kitchen-apron.html" target="_blank">Alyssa's 1888 Apron</a></div>
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As always, I am a sucker for a good write-up--document everything, folks! Even so, I had a hard time deciding which to choose, with all the submissions--both intriguing and simple. Alyssa--in addition to providing well set up photos which include greenery (something I hadn't seen in 6 months)--included reasons for many of her decisions in the project, all the way back to how she ended up choosing this project. It is also a slightly more complicated project than just a simple apron--the thing has darts in it!--and was drafted from a period pattern.<br />
<br />
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<br />Brann mac Finnchadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04614813862245766203noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2468874881802139741.post-24534040495642800692018-04-03T11:53:00.000-08:002018-04-03T13:19:36.215-08:00Bad Penny Pluderhose: Drafting the Foundation Shorts (Again)A couple of years ago, I made my last pair of pluderhose and <a href="http://matsukazesewing.blogspot.com/2016/01/revenge-of-pluderhose-madness-returns.html" target="_blank">wrote up a tutorial </a>on drafting them throughout the various stages. When I revisited them with the plan to make another pair this year, I found that my most excellent instructions...didn't work. Partly because I didn't take one of my measurements correctly, but my old instructions are also clunky. Especially in the section regarding some rather esoteric and personal measurements.<br />
<br />
The garment itself is somewhat complicated, and I am sure has been the cause of
many grey hairs in re-enactors--partially because there are <b>no</b> patterns or instructions for them online. Well...<a href="http://scagermanrenaissance.blogspot.com/2007/10/pluderhosen-or-hose.html" target="_blank">there is one</a>,
but it is not remotely period as it seems to be based on modern pajama pants).
Reconstructing History also sells a pattern, which I have no experience
with, and no desire to--I don't need help going mad. So, when I went to draft out a new pluderhose foundation pattern, and found that my old instructions had issues, I realized I would have to mostly rewrite it. As before, this pattern is based on the pairs worn by Nils and Erik
Sture (mostly Nils, because I believe Erik's pair of foundation breeches got
stretched with wear).<br />
<br />
This tutorial series for the pluderhose consists of four parts; the base breeches/foundation shorts; panes and lining; codpiece; and assembly. In the example pairs, the foundation
breeches were made of a fine leather, similar to chamois or a soft
deerskin--previously I used a
heavy cotton (cotton drill), this time I have deerskin splits to use (which should be attributed to my madness, because it will be a pain. Spend the extra money, and don't use splits if you decide on leather, since they are uneven in thickness). Depending on the particular
style, the foundation breeches can be around knee length (and sewn to the
legband at the bottom) as in Nils', or free at the bottom and a bit shorter as I believe
Erik's was.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhe4oEyXVYPfrE73ValeYgzgcVYx1DqfvmF6LAoWiW1WMQl2-lZydhanOR8Kmyg0b66PDRWyLBykHE86IzO2Pu86CUb-a8y_dae_-Ku2v1srrZi2vd5dsNvTPSzgafmaBhx7AIGFtlF4Po/s1600/IMG_20160128_075033.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="960" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhe4oEyXVYPfrE73ValeYgzgcVYx1DqfvmF6LAoWiW1WMQl2-lZydhanOR8Kmyg0b66PDRWyLBykHE86IzO2Pu86CUb-a8y_dae_-Ku2v1srrZi2vd5dsNvTPSzgafmaBhx7AIGFtlF4Po/s320/IMG_20160128_075033.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Foundation shorts of Nils Sture's pluderhose, 1568. <br />
<u><i>Patterns of Fashion 3</i></u><i>, by Janet Arnold</i></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<a name='more'></a>And on to bulk of the tutorial. As a warning, there is a lot of
measuring, in some sensitive areas (but less so than there was!), since the
pattern themselves essentially have a buttcheek; there is a purpose to that,
other than to make you look good--it removes any seams from where you
sit, which is important in close fitting pants. Remember that
the measurements should be taken over the appropriate undergarments
(including the cup, if you plan to fight while wearing the pants). I also
suggest tying a cord or twine around your natural waist, and where you
want the cuff in order to keep track of those locations while measuring.<br />
<br />
NOTE: This is my way of drafting and explaining it; I'm not saying it is
the correct way, but it is based on extant examples and worked for me. My
point is that your brain may process way differently (in which case
contact me, and I'll see if I can elucidate), or different shapes may
have issues. However, I hope that this gives you a starting place. IF
you do use this tutorial, please, share your experiences in the comments
below (way below). Prost! and happy drafting. <br />
<br />
<h4>
Measuring and measurements:</h4>
Ease should be to taste and can be added in by placing fingers under the
measuring tape. At the waist, I measure in zero ease (other than what result in measuring over your shirt), two
to three fingers at the hip, upper thigh is around four, and one finger at the lower
thigh. After drafting and trying it on over a couple of different pairs, I can say that the most
important part to have ease in is the upper thigh (and likely hips), so
measure those loosely or over a pair of lightweight but loose pants. Only the circumferences will get
ease, not the vertical measures. I also must stress the importance of bringing the rise as close
to the
fork of your legs as possible--if it is even slightly loose, there will
be issues with movement; guys, it will probably feel odd--that is
okay...these are more like tights than modern pants.. In addition,
remember to add in your seam allowances when you cut. <br />
<ul>
<li><u>Waist:</u> Your natural waist, mind. (Mark down the half waist as well). No ease is needed, as part of the draft adds it in.</li>
<li><u>Hips: </u>Widest part of the hips. (Mark down the half hips as well)</li>
<li><u>Inseam</u>: Measure down to the desired cuff location from as
high in the fork of the legs as possible--it is important you go /all/
the way up. Otherwise you lose mobility.</li>
<li><u>Upper Thigh</u>: Circumference of the highest part of the leg.
It is critically important you go as high as feasibly possible for the
same reason as the inseam. </li>
<li><u>Lower Thigh:</u> Circumference of the location of the cuff.</li>
</ul>
Those are all fairly standard; now for the fiddly bits.<br />
<ul>
<li><u>Rise</u>: Simply measure from the waist in the front, between the legs, and up to the waistband in the back.</li>
<ul>
<li>You need to note down both front and back rise. Mark about halfway to the inside of the thigh
(where an inseam would be) and note the measurements to either side for
your front and back rise. The back rise should be longer than the
front. </li>
</ul>
<li><u><u>Backseam:</u> </u>At the center back of your thigh and just under the cheek, measure straight down to the cuff location. This should be essentially the same measure as your inseam, but both are needed (just in case).<u> </u></li>
<li><u>Inseam Offset</u>: Measure from your inseam (as high up as possible) to the center of the back of your thigh where the backseam was measured--you should be wearing pants /with/ an inseam to take this measure. This is used to figure out the location of the rise.</li>
<li><u>Vertical Butt.</u> In line with that center seamline down the back
thigh, measure vertically from the waistband to the bottom of the cheek,
following any curves. This should be measured fairly loosely, to give
ease for bending over.</li>
<li><u>Codpiece: </u>Measure over the widest point of the athletic cup if you are wearing one. Horizontally. This will be the width of the codpiece, which serves as a gusset and cannot be left out. I am including this measure here in case you want to skip to part III (link at the bottom) and draft the codpiece base in order to check the fit.</li>
</ul>
Measure and write all these down before beginning to draft. As a note,
it was perfectly possible for me to take all of appropriate
measurements on myself; your mileage may vary. So onward to the actual
drafting (Instructions will be below the accompanying photograph):<br />
<br />
<h4>
Drafting: </h4>
For clarity, this was done on paper, at 1/4th scale. When I give the instruction to square a line, I mean square from the selvage or fold of the cloth.<br />
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Base line: For this particular draft, I like to build up from the bottom, rather than one side or the top as is normal for drafting. Measure out your <u>Lower Thigh</u> measurement, and draw it out with approximately 1" of deflection in the middle. Mark the ends <i>A </i>and <i>B.</i><br />
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Square up from each end, making the lines somewhere around your backseam or inseam in length. This is just to prep for the next step, so accuracy isn't important as long as they are squared. <br />
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With the thigh, it is important (and accurate to the best of my knowledge) to offset it slightly...the rear side is a slightly deeper angle. Subtract your <u>Lower Thigh </u>measure from the <u>Upper Thigh Measure</u>, divide in half, and line the ruler up so that slightly less than half of the difference is to the left of the pattern. Mark off the points <i>1</i> (left) and <i>2</i> (right). You can see more clearly how it is offset in the photo below.<br />
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Using your <u>Backseam</u> measurement, draw diagonal lines so that they are even (vertically) with Points 1 and 2.<br />
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From <i>Point 1,</i> measure over by your <u>Inseam Offset</u>, and make a mark labeled as <i>I</i> (for Inseam). Don't get too attached to that dot.<br />
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You will need to adjust this up or down, so square up from the bottom cuff by your <u>Inseam<i> </i></u>measure and relocate the point if needed.<br />
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For the tricky-ish part...this is the segment which got me in trouble and led to my rewriting the instructions. Take 1/6th or 1/7th of your <u>Upper Thigh Measurement</u>. You may want to draft both, and see which is more comfortable for you, but I decided to use 1/6th. Remember that the codpiece gusset will add to the roominess, so you want it to be more tightly fitted than normally comfortable, but you should be able to move without splitting the rise beyond <i>Point I.</i> <br />
This proportion will be half the width (roughly) of your rise gap. From <i>Point I</i>, measure right by this proportion. Mark it as <i>point Fr</i> (Front Rise).<br />
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To the left your will need to do the same, marking as <i>point Br </i>(Back rise). You also need to mark halfway between <i>Point Br</i> and <i>Point I </i>(equaling 1/12 <u>upper thigh</u> if you chose 1/6ths) as <i>point 3</i>. <br />
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From <i>Point Fr</i> square up by an equal measure (1/6 upper thigh) and make a mark.<br />
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Using a compass (or just freehand it as I did) strike a curve between the spot you just made and <i>Point I</i>.<br />
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At <i>Point 3</i> square up by the the 1/12th upper thigh.<br />
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And strike a curve the same way.<br />
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From <i>Point Fr</i>, measure up by your front rise measurement and draw a vertical line to form the Front Rise. It will likely be longer than you need...but it's much easier to trim the waistband down to where you want than to add it back on. <br />
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At <i>Point Br</i>, measure vertically by the <u>Back Rise Measurement</u>, and jot a point. <br />
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Now connect it with the top of the curve above <i>Point 3</i>, like so. <br />
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At the top of the Back Rise, make a line 1.5-2.5 inches long (larger for larger waists) parallel to the fabric edge. Mark it as <i>line BW</i> (back waist). This is serves for the ease in the waistband. <br />
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Remember the top of the curve you drew above <i>Point Fr</i>? Line your ruler up with that, and measure left from the Back rise by .75-1.5 inches (again, larger for larger butts).<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjc0iVzGjcmK1jERE2pTiER0j2es6zqwtQf6FvQtqEaWeQEz8LjOs2bJed23QzuuB2fi9v7BcBuRTD0J_sqQZr3peJM7jmvKJitzWhzdO3hvv4fouaxilObVzCgIrlEiCqCDM6YkBaIKPc/s1600/IMG_20180402_154928.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1197" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjc0iVzGjcmK1jERE2pTiER0j2es6zqwtQf6FvQtqEaWeQEz8LjOs2bJed23QzuuB2fi9v7BcBuRTD0J_sqQZr3peJM7jmvKJitzWhzdO3hvv4fouaxilObVzCgIrlEiCqCDM6YkBaIKPc/s320/IMG_20180402_154928.jpg" width="239" /></a></div>
Strike a diagonal line from the above point to the outside of <i>line BW</i>. I drew it straight here, but you can make it slightly concave or serpentine as well (with the convex bit up top). <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFpU9hpolFlGOD_BXmXwhOzX93_2D5MXoMYTBy3BrROQHQS_cnC4idad1cpxqWUyEgOdvar9SR1mN3Qg8w6Vo9xEWEodhpI9YSn77g7GpOXIK1xJmjXIlOFyhtcWV4kGJY3JiNNkjGcE0/s1600/IMG_20180402_154942.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1197" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFpU9hpolFlGOD_BXmXwhOzX93_2D5MXoMYTBy3BrROQHQS_cnC4idad1cpxqWUyEgOdvar9SR1mN3Qg8w6Vo9xEWEodhpI9YSn77g7GpOXIK1xJmjXIlOFyhtcWV4kGJY3JiNNkjGcE0/s320/IMG_20180402_154942.jpg" width="239" /></a></div>
Strike a curve like so to finish the line, joining it up with the backseam.<br />
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Even with the top of the curve at <i>Point 3/I</i> measure the width of the back piece and strike a line of convenient length across the width of the garment. In my draft this bit is 1.5" wide.<br />
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Continue your measure from where you left off (again, 1.5" for me) and mark <i>Point S </i>(Seat) at half of your <u>Hips</u> measurement.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkd9p0Mgy1wW-vVWokYsR55eLeDVRCsSzA5F1s0EM_dMddxXVG-oj0T1DCXfj_3ffl3nJ_BcZtivmbgi_Wg2XzYdazGgzmnYWdTcpGTxj3W2IupdU4mQ2FxI8bUfYss1CUIMfyr9CO_pY/s1600/IMG_20180402_155819.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1197" data-original-width="1600" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkd9p0Mgy1wW-vVWokYsR55eLeDVRCsSzA5F1s0EM_dMddxXVG-oj0T1DCXfj_3ffl3nJ_BcZtivmbgi_Wg2XzYdazGgzmnYWdTcpGTxj3W2IupdU4mQ2FxI8bUfYss1CUIMfyr9CO_pY/s320/IMG_20180402_155819.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
Vertically up from the top of the right hand backseam, jot a line <br />
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Jot a horizontal line even with your <u>Vertical Butt</u> measurement.<br />
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Starting from the top of the Front Rise line, measure over by your <u>Half waist</u> to intersect the line you just jotted.<br />
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If desired, you can subtract part or all of the <i>Back Waist</i> line to taste; if you tend to not gain/lose weight rapidly in the waist, I recommend making the waistband length fairly close. There should be a little bit of ease, but not a lot, and take into account that the waistband of your pluderhose need to match up with the lacing band on your doublet/wams (which is why I like to make my hose before my doublet).<br />
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Draw the waist line. Personally, I usually hollow it slightly.<br />
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Going from the end of the waistline, connect that with <i>Point S</i> with a slight convex curve to the line, and finish the drawing the curve like so. Ideally, the length of this curve will correspond with that on the other side.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgO1cJ-yaO8uWmsTatopMNjynAVhmTiqrOTxVJGA9dv9vvfazhj17i0jJDV5mHMmfvgtvU6cLEfARXnx76btFXPtnEhHT_UZULUagfESkyzL8ujvpQMlT6d6RkfNzbO9wtXjlWJTAnymr8/s1600/IMG_20180402_162524.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1197" data-original-width="1600" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgO1cJ-yaO8uWmsTatopMNjynAVhmTiqrOTxVJGA9dv9vvfazhj17i0jJDV5mHMmfvgtvU6cLEfARXnx76btFXPtnEhHT_UZULUagfESkyzL8ujvpQMlT6d6RkfNzbO9wtXjlWJTAnymr8/s320/IMG_20180402_162524.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
Before cutting out your mockup, I recommend marking both layers at the top of the backseam so that you can match them up; start sewing the seam from there rather than either top or bottom. I also like to cut out the back rise section so it is longer/taller than strictly necessary to ensure that it will reach along the seat seam....it can always be trimmed off later.<br />
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<h4>
Onwards to <a href="http://matsukazesewing.blogspot.com/2016/04/revenge-of-pluderhose-panes-of-torment.html" target="_blank">PART II--the Panes</a></h4>
<h4>
<a href="http://matsukazesewing.blogspot.com/2016/06/revenge-of-pluderhose-codpiece-of-dooom.html" target="_blank">PART III--the Codpiece</a>. You may wish go make the codpiece base gusset before finalizing the fit of the foundation.</h4>
<h4>
<a href="http://matsukazesewing.blogspot.com/2016/06/pluderhose-putting-it-all-together.html" target="_blank">And Part IV--Putting it together</a>. </h4>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">©
John Frey, 2018. The Author of this work retains full copyright for this
material. Permission is granted to make and distribute verbatim copies of this
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<br />
<br />Brann mac Finnchadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04614813862245766203noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2468874881802139741.post-81551451007896813582018-03-24T12:14:00.000-08:002018-03-24T12:14:10.954-08:00Project Roundup: What Have I been Doing?...not much, to be honest. I have only completed a couple of project, and my major projects have been having...issues. Two of the major projects from last year--the Hasting's Suit, and the Patchwork Paletot--have both been shelved until further notice.<br />
<br />
<br />
My other major projects have been having issues getting past the drafting stage--a 1760s Redingote was on deck (I even have the fabrics for it) but I never got around to cutting out a mockup to check the fit, and now it's getting warm enough that it would be next winter before I get to wear it. The pluderhose for a slightly secret project--I am trying to keep the details a surprise, but not that I am working on German Ren again--have been...problematic. I found issues with my drafting system not creating a pair of the undershorts which will fit, and went through a full 6 drafts before I got close to having mobility. <br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0IcLHQPDs4Kw3qyd3XUvf1qXBPcphmR_nJ-BHQcgb0_MSC2VAgjZXOIPGLNkH2SAY0YHO3E2TJD8Me9f-yoh2GOpbzv6OQz4YQ6z9CWhE8zvZalBGxyXQhblq6To9vAykPevp9FcnpYU/s1600/IMG_20180215_215121.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1197" data-original-width="1600" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0IcLHQPDs4Kw3qyd3XUvf1qXBPcphmR_nJ-BHQcgb0_MSC2VAgjZXOIPGLNkH2SAY0YHO3E2TJD8Me9f-yoh2GOpbzv6OQz4YQ6z9CWhE8zvZalBGxyXQhblq6To9vAykPevp9FcnpYU/s320/IMG_20180215_215121.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Because it's a good, generic sewing photo.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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The first test fit for the Gestalt Rock cut out. It looks pretty close to the pattern given in the Austrian Tailoring books from period.<br />
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For the January HSM, I decided to finally put buttons on my fencing doublet. Just basic thread wrapped ones, shown here. <br />
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And all the buttonholes with the project finished! Mind...I haven't worn it yet.<br />
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Bit of a terrible photo, but I went through a second draft as well. The first one fit, but I wanted to make one with heavier, less draping fabric (acrylic felt here). The sleeve is problematic. <br />To check the fit, I have scraps of faux fur pinned inside. I'm also wearing the layers of my Brunswick suit. Such a pain to put on for only a few minutes of wear.<br />
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But since I was happy with the cut of the body, I went ahead and cut it both from the heavy wool and the faux fur lining. Naturally, I had issues with the lining...I really could have used another half yard, and I bought it something like 18 months ago.<br />
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With that, I needed to stiffen the collar and front edge. Unwashed cotton duck was used. And I found that the sizing in said cotton duck burns and sticks to my iron. I was not happy...but since I use an old fashioned dry iron, you can use a chisel to scrape it clean. <br />
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Talking with the Modern Maker, I found that the entire collar should be padstitched with rows parallel to the top edge. I also went down the front interfacing slightly to help control where it rolls back to show the lining<br />
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To a different project....drafting up a 1760s frock coat, to turn into a Winter weight redingote. I believe I went through three different drafts of various qualities. The first is no good, but the second and third (to my measurements, and proportionate, respectively) should theoretically work, albeit with radically different results. I decided to put this project up for a while, in favour of working on a Spring/Fall Redingote (1822 draft).<br />
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It's so fluffy! Seriously...this is a rather nice faux fur; nice and pettable. I've gotten the lining (exception of the sleeves) all sewn together here. <br />
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And trying it on. I'm pretty happy with the results so far. It is definitely going to be quite warm! And cozy.<br />
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The current draft for the pluderhose base shorts. You may remember from my Brunswick suit that the base shorts of pluderhose are are used to both support the finished product, and the outer pane's draft is based on them.<br />The main issue I had in making these is that the rise and thigh measures were not wide enough...eventually I got smart and remeasured to find a good 4" difference. Upon redrafting, it worked much much better. I am also in the process of re-writing my drafting tutorial for these...streamlining it, and making sure it works better. I need to draft out one more copy to check the fit and make sure the proportion works.<br />
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And then...I decided I needed to make some underwear. Specifically, early 15th century braies. Pattern is pretty simple, just two rectangles for legs, and a strip of a gusset for the rise. Unlike the typical pattern, which calls for a strip to run all the way up the back, I tapered it to give a closer fit in the back (as is seen in manuscripts).<br />
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And all done. Even though I handsewed these, they still only took maybe 6.5 hours, including felling every seam. As far as I can tell, the fit is promising, but I will have to wait until my 14th century belt buckle comes so I can make the narrow belt to fit in the casing and hold them up. <br />
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Happily, I finished a major project a few days ago...my Ravenpuff wool scarf. Just in time for Spring (it's still chilly in the mornings, though!). 11' long and 1' wide, and in the blue/gold of Ravenclaw, with black stripes to represent my Hufflepuff side. Technically, it should be blue/bronze, but it is apparently rather difficult to find bronze wool yarn, even in online fiber shops. It has a number of flaws, but I like it and have gotten a number of compliments on it.<br />
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Really, that's about all I have been working on, or gotten done. As said...not much. I will say that I am happy that I finally finished (more or less) my article on <a href="http://matsukazesewing.blogspot.com/2018/02/plainsewing-in-depth.html" target="_blank">Plainsewing in Depth</a>.<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Baskerville Old Face", "serif";">©
John Frey, 2018. The Author of this work retains full copyright for this
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<br />
<br />Brann mac Finnchadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04614813862245766203noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2468874881802139741.post-66922619977115585562018-02-16T01:01:00.004-09:002018-03-23T17:02:11.970-08:00Plainsewing in Depth<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
Being the Class Notes/Synopsis of my class taught at St. Boniface Collegium (UAF) last November. <br />
<br />
This class was intended to go over each of the sixteen or so different stitches I could think of, what uses they are most suited for, and how to choose your thread and wax...I didn't quite manage to get that all into the actual class since we kept running off on tangents. I had also anticipated more beginners in the class, rather than leading a class mostly containing experienced seamstresses. The goal of the class—and even more with this article--is to pass on some of the tips and tricks I've gleaned over the last few years of doing a fair amount of handsewing; both in SCA (Society for Creative Anachronism…pre-1603) and more modern sewing and tailoring, and to help make things easier for other historical costumers who want to do more in the way of handsewing. By no means is this article exhaustive and as I think of or learn more stitches, I will update. Originally, I also intended to provide documentation for each stitch for each period (if it was used); I eventually decided to not do so because it turned out to be a lot more difficult and a more of a massive undertaking than I anticipated and I wanted to actually get the article published someday soon.<br />
<br />
<br />
<h3>
Supplies: </h3>
To start with, I will cover the required three tools and materials for handsewing and one optional one--this list does not include the fabric. Needle, thread, wax, and I highly recommend a thimble (semi-optional).<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihwHeeFEspXtsd7rolh1feVENI_uU4UzKYHGThuMto5ujpZlNxA0UABWrwB-L9CC6sasV7d_8-s1CxnZ-RauWu4eHvjpaZ_vKp_yo9Mhvfjg4UdOqAiHzEHg-xK0fE0GVaSBe5m7IneAs/s1600/IMG_20180215_215121.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1197" data-original-width="1600" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEihwHeeFEspXtsd7rolh1feVENI_uU4UzKYHGThuMto5ujpZlNxA0UABWrwB-L9CC6sasV7d_8-s1CxnZ-RauWu4eHvjpaZ_vKp_yo9Mhvfjg4UdOqAiHzEHg-xK0fE0GVaSBe5m7IneAs/s320/IMG_20180215_215121.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">As you can see, I store my needles in an old Belgian Ale cork.<br />
The jewelry pliers are helpful for sewing through many layers<br />
and when your fingers start slipping.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<a name='more'></a>Needles are commonly available, and usually fairly inexpensive. I am a horrible seamster, and usually use larger needles than are necessarily required (contrary to the usual advice of “use the smallest you can manage”); this is because A) I have larger fingers and manipulating a tiny needle is a pain in the butt, and B) with 90% of the fabrics I use in sewing (I primarily work with wools and linens), holes will heal. Just rub it slightly and the fibers generally close up around the thread. Reason “B” also means the thread will behave a bit better, since there is less friction on the thread as it is pulled through the cloth. An somewhat general rule of thumb on needle diameter should be that it should be slightly greater than the thread diameter. If you go too small, you will have issues threading (some threads can be compressed however, such as DMC floss), as well as issues with the thread catching at the eye when you take a stitch—both leading to difficulties making your motions smooth and efficient, and tending to leave holes which don't heal quite as well since they are slightly ragged. <br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLGpcfOUWD95UWvlpvPulP3595QEhyphenhyphenUKnOYnpby5Qt9zKivxOtPAjBAlWGJQqVehHP2yFlxkPnwp2z0mmEw80yb5eDA5sfQmBI79H5iicMx0RMohXSeUsRQPhz9HffxkOPE9_r2cjxVA0/s1600/12715856_822637724530336_2771069193372699180_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLGpcfOUWD95UWvlpvPulP3595QEhyphenhyphenUKnOYnpby5Qt9zKivxOtPAjBAlWGJQqVehHP2yFlxkPnwp2z0mmEw80yb5eDA5sfQmBI79H5iicMx0RMohXSeUsRQPhz9HffxkOPE9_r2cjxVA0/s320/12715856_822637724530336_2771069193372699180_o.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Self-sewing with wool on a <a href="http://matsukazesewing.blogspot.com/2016/02/norlund-78-hood-finished-project.html" target="_blank">Greenland Hood.</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I do, on rare occasions, use a handmade bone needle to sew. While originally this was purely as an experiment, I found out something handy...a bone needle allows you to sew much more easily with wool thread. This is because the thickness of the needle makes a larger hole...meaning the wool thread is exposed to less friction and breaks less often, much the same as using a larger steel needle that needed—just more exaggerated. <br />
<br />
<br />
<h4>
Thread:</h4>
Thread is important since you can't sew without it, and choosing the right thread for the job is just as. Probably 75% of my sewing (leaving aside basting) is done with linen thread, which is generally white; it gets used for all linen handsewing sewing, and most wool. The remainder of the time I use wool thread, primarily for softer woolen fabrics because if something is going to tear, you want it be the stitching, not the cloth—it’s easy to resew a seam, but patching is a pain and tends to be visible. With the exception of sewing buttonholes, I try to avoid using silk thread as much as possible--not because it is necessarily difficult to use (although it can be!), but because I do not feel it is necessary for construction stitches. In addition, silk thread tends to be expensive enough that I only buy for specific projects rather than keeping it on hand. That said, when you are sewing fine silk fabrics, fine silk thread is the only choice because anything else can snag the fabric. The other exception are buttonholes (which are partly decorative) and when you are sewing rolled hems...the smoothness and strength of silk thread helps the stitching go more smoothly, compared to linen thread. <br />
<br />
You may notice that cotton--or worse *shudder* poly--thread is not in there. This is for a specific reason...most threads of that variety are for machine use, and I've found that they aren't as strong as decent linen thread (possibly the source of the myth that hand seams are weaker than machine ones), and they tend to snarl and tangle horribly. I do not recommend them for anything but one specific exception…when basting. When I first started handsewing, I found linen thread to be an unbearable pain compared to the cotton quilting thread I had been using, and hated it--primarily due to the natural slubs found in some linen threads. After using it more and getting used to the idiosyncrasies of using linen thread (don’t try to use a section with a large slub, for one), and learning fully the importance of waxing--I can’t stand using machine cotton thread. <br />
<br />
The linen threads I use the most are a 60/2 thread in white, and various colours of 50/3. I also strongly recommend keeping a 16/2 linen thread on hand...it works well when you need something stronger than normal, such as attaching a skirt to a bodice or gathering stitches in a heavier fabric. The heavier thread also works well for leatherworking. 60/2 is used for the majority of my sewing--and lately, basting--because it is available in larger spools, and is average enough for many of the fabrics I work with. 50/3 is for heavier (but well fulled) wools and linens, particularly where strength is a consideration. I order all of my linen thread from Wm, Booth, Draper since linen thread is not available anywhere near my town (neither is silk or wool), and I am familiar with their products; depending on where you live, you may be able to find it locally. The numbers are how thick the thread is by weight—number of 840 yard skeins per pound--and the number of plies (Cotton count system); in the case of the 60/2 it is made of two plies of thread which makes 60 skeins per pound. Theoretically, anyways—it could also be metric<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=2468874881802139741#_edn1">[i]</a> . <br />
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIvuXYVlvqpwJmcTx_p2QFmlbSBpCbIngULeJw7oWzDOwEAcFP0Rw1i1J-COo1AACaf6y9T4_Hwr7peoTJG855doZhGYHgNLUtR8KykS39FPEzc4pZCP2P46tcF-i4uEVV2Ag1CeqCI2s/s1600/IMG_20180215_215344.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1197" data-original-width="1600" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIvuXYVlvqpwJmcTx_p2QFmlbSBpCbIngULeJw7oWzDOwEAcFP0Rw1i1J-COo1AACaf6y9T4_Hwr7peoTJG855doZhGYHgNLUtR8KykS39FPEzc4pZCP2P46tcF-i4uEVV2Ag1CeqCI2s/s320/IMG_20180215_215344.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Clockwise from top: <br />
16/2 linen; 35/2 linen; 60/2 linen; synthetic thread for basting<br />
Silk quilters twist; #5 DMC Floss.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
I mentioned earlier that I prefer to use a fine wool yarn (16/2, if I remember correctly) for soft, easily torn wools because I would rather have the thread break than to tear the fabric. It is far easier to invisibly re-sew a seam than it is to invisibly patch the torn fabric--trust me, I've done enough patching on my clothing. This applies to linens and silks as well as other wools--when choosing a seam keep this in mind; is the fabric likely to tear at a stress point? If so, consider a /weaker/ seam rather than going for the strongest possible. You may also be able to spread out the load by felling or using a supporting tape over the seam, but for the most part, I am not covering combination seams in this article. <br />
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The last bit of thread choice I will touch on is a technique called self sewing--you draw your sewing thread from the fabric you are using. What this does is guarantee that the colours will match, as well as how they behave when washed. I have successfully used this technique before, with linen, wool, and silk thread, and I can say that depending on the thread used it is a pain in the butt, since they are almost always unplied. The linen needs to be high quality and low slub in order for this to be an option--the stuff from Fabric-store.com won't cut it. <br />
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<h4>
Wax: </h4>
I keep three varieties of wax in my sewing box...a paraffin wax, a slightly soft and sticky beeswax, and leatherworking code. While I use the beeswax the most, the other two do have their places. I find paraffin is best used with thread which is smooth and doesn't require much slicking or taming, so the purpose of waxing is more to lubricate the thread--I typically use it when basting with a modern thread because it does make it easier to pull the thread through the multiple large stitches, while keeping it tamed just enough. Shorter stitches means more friction over a given length of thread, and the wax is required more taming and smoothing.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbypqTDFYlKGdjPwYmgw662zBx22ow8SwlMc6tcRxeRL7hyphenhyphenTX9KZlww0GndHYDcmA67detfnwvLmEZgzdLOCrLvXOOrSyQlKg7Nzj5tGAMk1QrOqzYxfEGVZ8Imxe9_iu8ArAjsIdsREY/s1600/IMG_20180215_215148.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1197" data-original-width="1600" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbypqTDFYlKGdjPwYmgw662zBx22ow8SwlMc6tcRxeRL7hyphenhyphenTX9KZlww0GndHYDcmA67detfnwvLmEZgzdLOCrLvXOOrSyQlKg7Nzj5tGAMk1QrOqzYxfEGVZ8Imxe9_iu8ArAjsIdsREY/s320/IMG_20180215_215148.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Paraffin, beeswax, code.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Beeswax is, of course, the standby for any thread which needs some smoothing and sticking together. I prefer my wax to be slightly soft and sticky because it allows the fibers of the thread to smooth down more easily than a harder beeswax—if you live somewhere warmer than me your mileage may vary since your wax will be softer at room temperature. If you tend to work with darker fabrics in any quantity, I also suggest making or otherwise acquiring black beeswax, since the normal, pale coloured wax does leave markings on dark fabrics. <br />
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Often, you will see recommendations to wax and thread multiple needles at once for efficiency, and iron them between parchment paper in order to make the wax penetrate. I generally don’t bother, but it is a technique to keep in mind. If I happen to have my iron on when I am handsewing (which I try not to do, since it's a potential fire hazard), I might run the waxed thread across the edge of the iron to melt the wax. <br />
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Code is (was) one of my secret weapons. Normally used for waxing thread in leatherworking, it is a heat activated glue made from beeswax and resin and it MUCH stickier than beeswax (go figure). While for the most part, I don’t recommend code for general use—it can make pulling the thread difficult because it /is/ so sticky, but there are a couple of instances where it is the only thing which helps. Difficult threading is one—as well as being sticky, it stiffens the end of the thread far more than beeswax, which makes it easier to thread the needle. And secondly, for finicky threads: if you’ve tried beeswax and the thread is still untwisting and fraying, try code, and re-apply to the thread occasionally as you sew—the 80/3 linen thread I have, and the silk pulled from the fabric (self sewing) I'm using to sew the <a href="http://matsukazesewing.blogspot.com/2017/03/plotting-next-major-projectanother.html" target="_blank">Hasting's suit</a> with both require the code instead of beeswax in order to prevent the thread from breaking constantly.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8PC7bnu67_y30Rhm-WJvR3KLDxgP8EIcGFXHtHURcLGTMUwOOQihORGiv3jTzIsRYVY7VjRb-KUGcTS4-G97vaYEJFhYWQbQI0pjwRTSZWkGNrKQcnZR0Oc3SI3lrAFEU3JT2756TnmA/s1600/12493764_809185049208937_3616032160959886330_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8PC7bnu67_y30Rhm-WJvR3KLDxgP8EIcGFXHtHURcLGTMUwOOQihORGiv3jTzIsRYVY7VjRb-KUGcTS4-G97vaYEJFhYWQbQI0pjwRTSZWkGNrKQcnZR0Oc3SI3lrAFEU3JT2756TnmA/s320/12493764_809185049208937_3616032160959886330_o.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My original leather thimble, and the metal replacement.</td></tr>
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I am not going to discuss thimbles in length, other than to say that I highly recommend learning to use them, and to suggest trying different styles until you find one which works well for you. Personally, I use a custom-made tailor's thimble cut from sheet nickle I had laying around. It's a relatively narrow strip of the metal which widens into an oval to cover the side of my finger (middle bone of my left middle finger), the oval was stippled with a nail to keep the needle from slipping, and because it is open I can adjust the size when my fingers swell or shrink. You can also make similar out of a tiny scrap of leather and some elastic, which was what my original version was. Both <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6_xkHuJEPU4" target="_blank">Rory Duffy</a> and <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6_xkHuJEPU4" target="_blank">Seamus O Grady</a> briefly talk about using the thimble. <br />
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<h3>
Threading the Needle: </h3>
Most people know how to thread a needle...however, there are a couple extra tricks which aren't as well known. Wax the entire thread before threading, using extra on the end you will be threading with. Do NOT moisten the end of the thread with saliva since that will soften the thread—instead, moisten the eye end of the needle--having saliva there lubricates the eye and helps draw the thread through. American made (most needles, in fact) have punched eyes, not drilled...what this means is that there is often a slight burr, and a needle may be easier to thread from one side than the other. Even when I don't wax the length of thread--normally when I am sewing buttonholes with a fairly well behaved and short length of thread--I will wax the end for ease of threading. <br />
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<h3>
Stitch lengths: </h3>
The stitch length should be directly in proportion to the tightness of weave on the fabric. If I’m sewing a tightly woven wool or linen, I will use fairly small stitches (regardless of type of stitch). If the fabric is rather coarse, then larger stitches will be necessary…if you sew too small you may not be catching enough threads for the fabric to actually hold, which makes the seam tearing out more likely. Backstitches can be shorter than a running or stab stitch on the right side of the fabric in this circumstance since the wrong side makes up for it. My rule of thumb is each stitch needs to catch 2-4 threads (on each side), although with heavily fulled wools, this is somewhat immaterial since you can't actually see the weave. <br />
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There are a couple ways you can moderate your stitch length to keep it nice and small. The first (and way I do it), is to have your index finger underneath the seam, and use that as a gauge--just barely prick your finger, and it will be nice and small. Of course, that does mean the tip of my finger is full of holes, and slightly tattooed when I've been doing a lot of handsewing (especially pad stitching). The other method is to hold the needle just far enough back from the point to allow it to go through the fabric, plus the desired visible stitch length on the opposite side of the fabric. These methods work best for running, back, and some whipstitches--not so much on stab stitches.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcYLulx17StpMVddYQSlB2sgep2i9yaZU7gKwZ8sf7VDnJXuRGDSJ5vJShc_ppcUm2RGQ2ZUY0vZpQDs6nzf-KJIpnBpvTIbUnHOJh6fBfqjqvW22H12YsZHYiwNtHfMCRAErRmD-k180/s1600/IMG_20180215_215626.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1197" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcYLulx17StpMVddYQSlB2sgep2i9yaZU7gKwZ8sf7VDnJXuRGDSJ5vJShc_ppcUm2RGQ2ZUY0vZpQDs6nzf-KJIpnBpvTIbUnHOJh6fBfqjqvW22H12YsZHYiwNtHfMCRAErRmD-k180/s320/IMG_20180215_215626.jpg" width="239" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Using your finger to keep the stitch short.</td></tr>
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<h3>
Positioning the Fabric for sewing: </h3>
One of the little tricks I found helped the most in keeping my seams even is to work them under a slight amount of tension--doing so allows your hand room to move, allows for greater precision, and helps keep your seams straight (with practice!). Depending on my sewing position, I may either put a weight on the end of the seam (working at a bench), or pin it to my knee, sock, or cuff of my pants if I am sewing tailorwise (cross-legged). For me, when I use a weight it is typically a 1.5 liter wine bottle (filled with a failed lilac wine if you are curious) with the addition of a brass rod stuck in the cork to hold a spool of thread--but you can use whatever, or a sewing bird if you prefer. At times, I may also pin the other end of the seam to my waistcoat, which reduces stress on my non-sewing hand, since I am not having to pinch the fabric to hold it taut.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjO1CbcwLYoFrvbpIPVbxKOh7HEhZ1BaQ4RKtlE1EHDJEA_YbwWPsANplkFeoIBEB0mJlJf-a1VWzFpR_kwMufTkYmJL6-aHIVq833BOsOImZxwep6PBuQbIidjlDoS1VRUTnyZjnxBLto/s1600/sewing+bird+1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="400" data-original-width="347" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjO1CbcwLYoFrvbpIPVbxKOh7HEhZ1BaQ4RKtlE1EHDJEA_YbwWPsANplkFeoIBEB0mJlJf-a1VWzFpR_kwMufTkYmJL6-aHIVq833BOsOImZxwep6PBuQbIidjlDoS1VRUTnyZjnxBLto/s320/sewing+bird+1.JPG" width="277" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://quillcottage.blogspot.com/2010/02/miss-sandys-sewing-bird.html" target="_blank">Victorian Sewing Bird</a><br />
The fabric of the seam would be clamped by the beak.</td></tr>
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I categorize stitches into 4 classes; running/fore-stitch, backstitch, whipstitch, and buttonhole stitch. The last could also be considered a whipstitch variant, but I go so far into depth on it that it is a separate class and writeup, available as my article on Buttonholes Through the Ages. Almost every other stitch I can think of is a variant of those four, with slightly different techniques, and angles.<br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXGC3gjAhNoa_o9PSqONDnWdeGD5C-MI2ImaxW4yUlYOojiAfRa80L5L_5g2kkobsOiDZKi4K5zretqTLQfeTNh8HfW7fvbyKr9Y2wEmNXbaRhvQAl1uZIcqDZ4L2_vI7TLYbDSXC0Qa4/s1600/IMG_20180215_224312.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1197" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXGC3gjAhNoa_o9PSqONDnWdeGD5C-MI2ImaxW4yUlYOojiAfRa80L5L_5g2kkobsOiDZKi4K5zretqTLQfeTNh8HfW7fvbyKr9Y2wEmNXbaRhvQAl1uZIcqDZ4L2_vI7TLYbDSXC0Qa4/s320/IMG_20180215_224312.jpg" width="239" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Using a weight to hold the seam.</td></tr>
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidVkauo_5A7nuBrbTyx3gMU4KHRtsko61SJUYfRR_GSFKLyLHq8csLdOZ8nb1Ct_XrphH5Abs0N_qCfJD3w3_1m29UxPu8iZ67dYdGJBzHhz93g2hUqQg2UGGMWZ2YA0s0MgcUIeEcG4M/s1600/IMG_20180215_224620.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1197" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidVkauo_5A7nuBrbTyx3gMU4KHRtsko61SJUYfRR_GSFKLyLHq8csLdOZ8nb1Ct_XrphH5Abs0N_qCfJD3w3_1m29UxPu8iZ67dYdGJBzHhz93g2hUqQg2UGGMWZ2YA0s0MgcUIeEcG4M/s320/IMG_20180215_224620.jpg" width="239" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">And pinning it to my knee to keep tension.</td></tr>
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As a note on terminology, rather than suggesting to stitch working towards the left or right, I will say outside and inside. Outside means—whichever hand you use—the seam is being worked toward the shoulder of your stitching hand and continuing as though you were reaching out on that side. Towards the inside means your sewing hand is crossing your body. <br />
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<h3>
Running Stitch (or Fore-stitch): </h3>
Probably the best known stitch, along with backstitching; the running stitch is performed by running the needle through the cloth in a wave motion. It is quick, since you aren't moving your hand to the opposite side of the seam, but not particularly strong if you take multiple stitches at once. That said, I certainly do recommend using this stitch, especially when you are only going through a couple of layers of fairly light fabric at once. However, instead of taking multiple stitches at once I recommend going with single stitches, and pull the thread tight every few stitches (how many depends on stitch length and thread), then take a backstitch at the beginning of the next string of running stitches. Any basic handsewing page will give you instructions or at least a diagram, but this is one of the first<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k6657ZhHWgI" target="_blank"> I found</a> (don't sew towards your hand like that though!).<br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dzMQdlZ233dLEqMkqBsI3c77pvXRA3EIETjgS7tA6dpn4BzR1T1odlioa1InJMrE-I1yP2UfshU96i3jXe2-g' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>
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Fabrics to use on: anything thin enough (in the full number of layers for the seam) where you can keep the distance between stitches reasonable--no more than twice the stitch length (so...4-8 thread) is what I would say. The exception to the single stitch at a time rule is when I am running gathering stitches on a single layer, as for a shirt/chemise or ruff; you can keep the stitch length even, your thread choice is designed for smoothness, and because there is only a single layer of fabric, it can't shift and become uneven. When the fabrics are too thick or too many layers, I use other stitches. <br />
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Such as... <br />
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<h4>
Stab stitch: </h4>
As you can see in the illustration below, a stab stitch is superficially the same as a running stitch, and there is quite a bit of confusion, until you picture what the thread is doing as it goes through the layers. With a stab stitch the needle is going all the way through the fabric, being pulled from the wrong side, then inserted to the right side. In addition, the needle is not angled forwards along the seam, but is kept either vertical (think crenelations on a castle) or angled back to produce something which looks like a dovetail join in carpentry. When the latter version is done correctly, the seam will look almost machine sewn and be extremely strong.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGphycmnx-iwQebRe4Fa6bP1fgb2H1SmTBv_kIefVi3rL8G-EAqfbNJQEwuZ4QF_NxJ6KG38MSWg5I6aPlJXDXY1ZBGwq3HCmJ-f-WjyMp4ycnKJbvvfOSV2zzfOAADqkQc-uGSbEvVGQ/s1600/Stab+Running+stitch+diagram.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="368" data-original-width="397" height="185" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGphycmnx-iwQebRe4Fa6bP1fgb2H1SmTBv_kIefVi3rL8G-EAqfbNJQEwuZ4QF_NxJ6KG38MSWg5I6aPlJXDXY1ZBGwq3HCmJ-f-WjyMp4ycnKJbvvfOSV2zzfOAADqkQc-uGSbEvVGQ/s200/Stab+Running+stitch+diagram.png" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">From my old G63 Documentation</td></tr>
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In contrast to a running stitch, which when you pull it tight will create a puckering effect in soft fabrics (and gather if you continue pulling it tight), a stab stitch /compresses/ the fabric--an effect which is used to great effect in some circumstances. I use stab stitches for three things: extremely thick, dense fabrics, where a running or even back stitch would be too large; on the edges of certain garments, particularly 14th century ones, where when done through a facing [1. Page 160] it compresses and stiffens the edge of the fabric; and finally, those rare times when I use a bone needle (originally for experimental archaeology's sake, and now because I find wool thread sews better with it). Because of the thickness of and friction from the needle, a running stitch is impractical to impossible depending on the density of the fabric being sewn. <br />
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A warning though...while you can get quick at the stab stitch if you arrange your workstation correctly--I prefer to work tailor-wise and pin the fabric to my knees so that the edge of the seam is towards me—several of the other stitches are faster to sew with. <br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh907v5St4hXMh449_T7CB4SGVl8HSPLQdeKQDThDWxx2B4ZdBsp84IxnTCFvDtHXfvzP8y3WJCUf64USLFkb5Gvh6XHoGqZtzowgpqfm9anKjsbY4Ce9vKKmUsYa3luLF9bFgq-3KXsAw/s1600/IMG_20180215_225438.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1197" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh907v5St4hXMh449_T7CB4SGVl8HSPLQdeKQDThDWxx2B4ZdBsp84IxnTCFvDtHXfvzP8y3WJCUf64USLFkb5Gvh6XHoGqZtzowgpqfm9anKjsbY4Ce9vKKmUsYa3luLF9bFgq-3KXsAw/s320/IMG_20180215_225438.jpg" width="239" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One end of the seam pinned to a knee as I work<br />
from left to right as a Southpaw.</td></tr>
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The stab stitch as discussed here is primarily found beginning sometime in the 14th century….theoretically. <i>Textiles and Clothing</i> makes no mention of stab stitches [1. Pages 153-161], but <i>Woven into the Earth</i> does with a diagram on page 100. There are a couple of possible explanations for this, the simplest being that <i>Textiles </i>isn’t distinguishing it from a plain running stitch in regard to sewing down and reinforcing facings. The other explanation is a bit more complicated and involves some guesswork, but revolves around the assumption that metal needles were scarce in the Greenland colonies—problematic because while no metal needles were found, they most likely would have dissolved in the acid soil, so the lack of finds doesn't prove anything. I already discussed how I found that a bone needles work best with a stab stitch. <br />
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<h4>
Basting!: </h4>
Basting is a dirty word in some households, I know. But it /is/ necessary to use it on occasion. As a general rule, basting is just a long running stitch (for the other version, see the pad-stitching section) used to hold the layers of fabric together while you either fit the garment, sew it permanently, or occasionally to tack the inner layers--canvassing, interlining, padding--together (perma-basting). A variation of basting is also known as tailor's tacks and will be covered in the backstitching section. <br />
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Basting is one of the few places where I will use modern, synthetic thread...usually a buttonhole/upholstery thread, which is fairly stiff and tightly spun. This particular modern thread behaves, and rarely requires waxing...both are important factors when you may have 10 feet of thread on the needle. It's also fairly strong, so it is more likely to be easily removed. I also recommend using dedicated basting thread in some colour that contrasts your usual materials—doing so makes it easier to find when it is time to remove. <br />
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In using it the basting stitch for fitting, I recommend sewing the seams wrong sides together, in order to make any adjustments of taking it in/out easy. Because the seams may be under a bit of strain, it would be best to use smaller basting stitches. <br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhspf7vEtgehtfI2Fr3YSPM6tkyRxWGdHMRVcovicwO19wOEwjXQFyTT9fpgQJaR0tDZRMPopaSlnQVTyBMHsBDRIRRSI3q6_I1MvsK1Xc4wb76mNaqyMb4Pu1_YQOduvnWWsfZ4u92BRo/s1600/23117026_1355432551250848_3966557354365028473_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1350" data-original-width="1080" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhspf7vEtgehtfI2Fr3YSPM6tkyRxWGdHMRVcovicwO19wOEwjXQFyTT9fpgQJaR0tDZRMPopaSlnQVTyBMHsBDRIRRSI3q6_I1MvsK1Xc4wb76mNaqyMb4Pu1_YQOduvnWWsfZ4u92BRo/s320/23117026_1355432551250848_3966557354365028473_o.jpg" width="256" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Basting the Hasting's Trunkhose layers.</td></tr>
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When using to hold the pieces together for sewing the size of your stitches need to be depends on the complexity of the seam. If it is a fairly straight seam or you are holding fashion and interlining layers together then they can be relatively large, but if you are sewing a complex seam (where the seam edges don't match in shape) then shorter stitches may be necessary. Make sure your basting stitches are NOT where you will be sewing the actual seam! This is important, since if you accidentally sew through the basting thread, it will either be a pain to remove, or break the stitch in your actual seam...basting for this purpose is one of the places I will use a weaker thread (with exception being armscyes, since they are often under strain during fitting), so that the basting thread will be more likely to break than the sewing thread. <br />
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The main reasons I will use basting over pinning to hold the fabrics for sewing the finished seam is in particularly thick fabrics, since pinning can cause the layers to get uneven; likewise on many layers of fabric, but even worse. When I need to ease two seams together--either because they are uneven in length such as the shoulder seam of many fitted/tailored body garments, or because I'm dealing with a convex and concave edge as in the back/sidebody seam of later (1590s or so) doublets and upper body garments onwards—I will baste rather than pin in order to keep things more accurate. Basting also holds up to travel better, and is unlikely to stab you when you grab the fabric. <br />
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<br />
For perma-basting, my goal /is/ permanency of course. The stitches will normally be slightly smaller, or take the occasional anchoring backstitch, and the thread used may be more historically accurate (i.e. linen) if I feel that may be a concern. I will also make the knot neater, to prevent it from appearing as a lump in the fashion fabric. The main places I use this is to sew interlinings and canvassing together, or join underlining and fashion fabric within the seam allowances. One subtlety in the latter is if you baste the edges with the pieces over a curve--such as your knee—the layers will be slightly moved so the inside one is slightly smaller...like it needs to be for a perfect fit on the body. <br />
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<h4>
Rantering a Seam: </h4>
This is a fun technique, which shows up in the 18th century as a method of hiding seams in woolen (i.e. fuzzy or fulled) cloth garments, along with fine drawing (which is not a technique I have tried as of yet). Begin by sewing the seam “the normal way” i.e. with fore or back stitch, then, on the right side of the fabric and using a fine needle and silk thread catch the nap of the fabric only to draw it together over the seam. If there is no nap, you will need to brush one up—I use a slicker brush from the pet store to do so. Following that, you will brush it again in every direction until the nap is even, full it together, and—if necessary—shave it until the surface over the seam matches the rest of the cloth. A couple of tips are to go slowly, take tiny stitches, and when you full it (since you will likely use your knuckles) make sure your hands are /clean/. The instructions at <a href="https://prinnystaylor.wordpress.com/2011/09/30/stitches-as-used-by-tailors-in-1800/" target="_blank">Prinny's Taylor</a> is where I learned the stitch, and is reputedly from a volume dating to 1801. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjO8k07rH4U2FqyLHtETEuwxj86DLZAIXjl-daZU0fBgXyHhUhagcbJWzxqZmetgxORW8FtvDGc8q9APKUbKTpzR9ITVIu53CwpTVI0sMwJkqEH8xWX4cmUNQc89zA2Tr6KmOICAs3zoKQ/s1600/100_4245.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjO8k07rH4U2FqyLHtETEuwxj86DLZAIXjl-daZU0fBgXyHhUhagcbJWzxqZmetgxORW8FtvDGc8q9APKUbKTpzR9ITVIu53CwpTVI0sMwJkqEH8xWX4cmUNQc89zA2Tr6KmOICAs3zoKQ/s320/100_4245.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">An example of a rantered seam on my cotte. I had made <br />
a mistake and had to remove and piece a section in.</td></tr>
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I am still having issues actually finding examples of this in the 18th century…however, it is not difficult to find in the 19th , where it is discussed on page 219 of <i>The boy's book of trades</i> (1866), and even 20th century where it was recommended to hide the waist seam in woolen or tweed coats (<i>Thrift with a needle; the complete book of mending.</i> 1954). <br />
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<h4>
“Le point a rabattre sous la main”:</h4>
This stitch is another primarily 18th century stitch or seam, and one without—as far as I know—a name in English, although recently it has come to be called the "English Stitch", thanks to <a href="https://www.amazon.com/American-Duchess-Guide-Century-Dressmaking/dp/1624144535/" target="_blank">American Duchess's new book</a>. When I first got ready to teach this class, I had planned to present it as a 18th century (and therefore out of period) stitch, but then I realized it shows up on the Viborg shirt—an 11th century Danish find. Its purpose is to allow you to sew a seam as quickly as possible by eliminating the steps of sewing a lining separately—something important for a professional who gets paid by the garment. In addition, because there is only one seam holding both shell and lining, unstitching for adjustments due to weight loss/gain should be easier. I haven’t used this stitch all that much yet, so I don’t have all that many tips on use. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitU0_IqDKDv2g4u3Um76FDhuFn0Qbx0_Euiv6LmPrMwGc46N1w-4hpZBARxLpjFrVwIrV5Wmxg-_iOd0wOpGmLX0ZIPDRRP9cxtor-OtV8rhOzamUH5RlX8-KI1fK8P51Wu7G6T9UaGts/s1600/23116912_1354243111369792_3269074368999248467_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="1080" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitU0_IqDKDv2g4u3Um76FDhuFn0Qbx0_Euiv6LmPrMwGc46N1w-4hpZBARxLpjFrVwIrV5Wmxg-_iOd0wOpGmLX0ZIPDRRP9cxtor-OtV8rhOzamUH5RlX8-KI1fK8P51Wu7G6T9UaGts/s320/23116912_1354243111369792_3269074368999248467_o.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
Le point a rabattre sous la main is best used on lighter and medium in weight fabrics, rather than heavy wools. It is worked by folding the raw edges under with wrong sides together on both the lining and fashion fabric, placing the pieces to be sewn with the right sides together (as normal), and stab stitching through 6 of the 8 layers as close to the edge as feasible. Which side of the lining is skipped alternates between sides of the seam, so that the lining appears to be whipstitched down, while the fashion fabric is stab-stitched. With the close stitches required to make this seam neat, it would appear to be a fairly strong seam, but I have not yet tested it. I learned to do the stitch from<a href="http://stay-ingalive.blogspot.com/2011/03/how-to-do-weird-running-whip-stitch.html" target="_blank"> a blog where it was initially referred to as a "weird running stitch thingy"</a>. <br />
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In <i>Costume Close Up</i> the author says that this stitch is documentable and illustrated in a French book published between 1762 and 1777, the <i>Encyclopédie…Recueil de Plances</i>… by Denis Diderot [5. Pp. 8, 120]. Its use in earlier period clothing is shown on the Viborg shirt, although I suspect that example is an outlier, since it is a single piece of clothing. I do not know of any examples of it showing up in Renaissance or Victorian clothing at the moment.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiReSXRNv2b4Djgr6mL0Ovb7Btu1KxLhLanol99Sks8LjYzNRFfhTt2sJ3uYB5Lap1keQz_pA8lCXS25N0GdJXZ02SAatvrxKAJD-XYnEvMwilgaJbvlcI7aBaYUlqckDDZjAfl_6rS-g/s1600/V6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="339" data-original-width="423" height="256" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiReSXRNv2b4Djgr6mL0Ovb7Btu1KxLhLanol99Sks8LjYzNRFfhTt2sJ3uYB5Lap1keQz_pA8lCXS25N0GdJXZ02SAatvrxKAJD-XYnEvMwilgaJbvlcI7aBaYUlqckDDZjAfl_6rS-g/s320/V6.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Side seam of the Viborg Shirt. From <a href="http://www.forest.gen.nz/Medieval/articles/Viborg/SEAMS.HTM" target="_blank">Forest.gen.nz</a>.</td></tr>
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<h3>
Backstitches: </h3>
Most people know how to sew with the backstitch…one of the three primary stitches along with running stitch and whipstitch. No, don’t raise your hand if you don’t know it, I still plan to cover it anyways. In usage the backstitch is similar to a running stitch, and is the stronger alternative to the running stitch. The back and forward motion of the stitch does two things: it can lock the stitch if you go through your sewing thread, and it gives a little bit of elasticity to the seam to help keep the stitches from breaking under strain. For this reason, backstitch is best used in higher tension areas, and parts which have a small amount of stretch…armscyes, for instance, or the rise of a pair of pants. Other times I tend to use them for plainsewing is when I am dealing with thicker fabric or too many layers to perform a small enough running stitch--while I don’t necessarily need the extra strength, backstitching is quicker than stab stitching. I also backstitch every 5-10 stitches when sewing a seam with running stitch to help prevent the entire seam from coming undone if a stitch breaks. <br />
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We have a couple of variants here…even and uneven. Even tends to be smaller, and from the right side of the fabric almost looks like a machine sewn seam since you are inserting the needle where you came up from the last stitch. Uneven back stitches are not quite as strong as even backstitches, not quite as elastic, but are almost as fast as a running stitch (but stronger). They are also a bit less visible (on the right side). A large backstitch may also be used on the bias edges of a garment—such as around an armscye—before manipulating the garment in order to keep the edge from stretching unduly while checking the fit.<br />
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Like Running stitch, I would say most people know how to perform a backstitch. If you do not, I will refer you <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rZ_wVC84UmM" target="_blank">to this video.</a> <br />
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<h4>
Prick/Pick Stitch: </h4>
The first uneven backstitch is the pickstich, and there are a couple of variations of this, but they are essentially the modern version of a stab stitch--their main modern purpose is to help support and neaten the edge of a garment. Have you ever seen tiny stitches on the front edge of a modern suit jacket? Those are prick or pick stitches and are designed to keep the layers in the edge neat and flat. Essentially, the pickstitch is worked the same as any other backstitch, just taking care to only catch a few fibers (not even threads!) on each side of the garment, and not pull it tight since that will produce puckering (unless you desire that effect for decorative purposes). It is essentially a modern use stitch, although may possibly be used on the edges of structured Renaissance era clothing to later. For a video of the stitch being performed, I refer you to<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uGUxK2zkq5M" target="_blank"> this Rory Duffy Video</a>. If the fabric layers are thin enough, you can also perform the stitch as a running stitch.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1350" data-original-width="1080" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRli8rhrumC4CEeOEw5pHc6W8fd-ycOlbQ8_v5d4HyAz0cD_7x9EwbDO9Fo7i5w7POWrDx_SQuf0OWvA8yXpfReZOu9ScnvH3gKMVNS3O7slvrXg70Ho6Xm9bDsaUkwh7rXC4xhWHOaKs/s320/26114402_1403141816479921_4305310064189177979_o.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="256" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pick-stitch being performed on a waistcoat front.</td></tr>
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<h4>
Tailor’s Tacks: </h4>
Related to basting is a technique known as tailor’s tacks. Essentially, this is a way to transfer markings from one side of a garment to the other, for things like pockets, darts, or when you have inlays (wide seam allowances for fitting) on a seam. You are tracing the markings and seams using a modified (uneven) basting stitch, but with each small stitch take a backstitch and leave a loop standing above the fabric. Snip the long stitches on the top side of the fabric, then carefully peel the layers apart and snip the stitches between the layers. You should have a visible line of stitches on both pieces of fabric. I highly suggest using a contrasting thread for this technique. It is far more accurate than chalking between the layers, and a bit safer than pin marking. One tutorial--on doing them efficiently, no less--can <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7zVh-kyEKco" target="_blank">be found here</a>. <br />
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<h4>
Catch/Cross/Herringbone Stitch:</h4>
The naming on this particular stitch is somewhat confusing…for a plain sewer, it’s all the same stitch. If you come from an embroidery background, I have seen it labeled be labeled as a long arm cross-stitch. This is primarily a hemming stitch, especially for multiple layers or heavier fabrics, as in the hem of a structured garment. You may also not see it holding down seam allowances in a tailored garment (not see, because the lining would be hiding it). But, essentially it is an alternating backstitch—you are running two parallel seams at once, alternating. I find it is worked most quickly downwards—holding the edge in your off hand and working over your index finger, needle pointing up as the stitching line goes down. Since it isn’t supposed to be seen—in structured garments it will be covered by a lining, and the stitches shouldn’t show on the outside of the fashion fabric—it doesn’t matter all that much whether the stitches are pretty and even. But if it matters to you, the easiest way I found is to come up directly above (or below) the prior stitch. Then you just have to keep the lines straight. If you are using it to secure multiple layers of cloth, I tend to recommend the use of a medium weight thread in a colour which will blend with that of the fashion layer. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitzYJuBgiEO8H3jIjg9qdvryz-RcSUWv0rmJSKKQ4URbbkzfYqr-1sviGkihdgT2uQxIt_xi06OKivwy8AQttBemoHV2N98LsOwODaN9nVOTaFKe-flY8ocaPQqfAmVjZPhHvg4YphqoY/s1600/21994191_1322525074541596_8705124439453818972_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="1080" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitzYJuBgiEO8H3jIjg9qdvryz-RcSUWv0rmJSKKQ4URbbkzfYqr-1sviGkihdgT2uQxIt_xi06OKivwy8AQttBemoHV2N98LsOwODaN9nVOTaFKe-flY8ocaPQqfAmVjZPhHvg4YphqoY/s320/21994191_1322525074541596_8705124439453818972_o.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cross-stitching the hem of a waistcoat. The lining the gets slip-stitched over it.</td></tr>
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The catch stitch also gets used to join overlapping seams in your canvassing/interlining layers, as when you inset split or dart your canvas/haircloth, or to secure the edge of the canvassing if you are concerned that basting stitches won’t do the job (which they may not, if you plan to machine wash the garment). In watching <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JWY8xwNUNPE" target="_blank">this video tutorial</a>, it was pointed out that there is another way to do is as well, as a blind stitch. Another <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rt3VB9jdYf8" target="_blank">tutorial is here</a> and includes a double cross-stitch. <br />
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This stitch—in some variation or another—dates back to pre-Viking age, showing up on a skirt in Huldremose<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=2468874881802139741#_edn2">[ii]</a>, and a hem in Hedeby<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=2468874881802139741#_edn3">[iii]</a>. I have not found examples from the 14th century or so, but it is visible (between layers) in at least a couple of 16th century examples in <i>Patterns of Fashion 3</i>—that of Nils Sture (Figure 100) is the easiest found. <br />
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<h4>
Singling:</h4>
Singling is an interesting little stitch, and not particularly common or well known outside of those reenactors who have read <i>Woven into the Earth</i>. It would best be considered a hemstitch for heavier wools which aren’t fulled enough to go completely unhemmed, such as <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wadmal" target="_blank">Vadmal</a>. In the version I use you are sewing a fine cross-stitch on the wrong side, keeping it almost completely buried in the wool. What this does is stabilize the raw edge of your wool with a miniscule overcast stitch…if you just used an overcast (whip) stitch it would be ineffective since the stitch wouldn’t actually be attached to more than one thread or would have to be much larger and terribly visible. If done correctly, it appears as a series of tiny running stitches on only the wrong side of the fabric, an even smaller whipstitch on the edge, and maybe hints of the thread running through the fibers of the cloth. It isn’t only used to stabilize and leave the edge raw…if you are tablet weaving directly to the edge of the cloth, using singling is highly recommended to allow your warp stitches to stay small and while being sturdy enough that the weaving should not fall off. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjq3vPQ_IZzmci7NR3REJclkrJOO7abN-7M-BNXt_m7SSpzU9NZuoV4WDSn4MbhVGI5o285532i08fscoYIKQd838O7fS5gjjGMHOF_3-UckYrY-fAtPYcObSHJPnVCuwz0mqLxF9PfZ7k/s1600/IMG_20180215_224752.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1197" data-original-width="1600" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjq3vPQ_IZzmci7NR3REJclkrJOO7abN-7M-BNXt_m7SSpzU9NZuoV4WDSn4MbhVGI5o285532i08fscoYIKQd838O7fS5gjjGMHOF_3-UckYrY-fAtPYcObSHJPnVCuwz0mqLxF9PfZ7k/s320/IMG_20180215_224752.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Not particularly visible, even from the wrong side.<br />
At least in this fabric. You can barely see some red stitches.</td></tr>
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While <i>Woven into the Earth</i> shows singling done in a sinuous “S” sort of shape, I prefer to use a cross-stitched form as I have found it quicker and less finicky (since you are working in straight lines rather than curves). Ideally, a fine wool thread which colour matches the fabric would be ideal and the most historically accurate, but linen or even silk in a matching colour will also work fine and is more readily available. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_URy7mb4qriSOvGR5hh1EekKSlJTZKeYF0tQiXL-hJC9U9YNtAx9OOd0l71CV4Wpur7V69NHLCbns3jOKkvAWqMXmNsbY9BY-kmpImIYElvm3kiMsgTK8nab3T6COBOqVcSB_xhdRY1g/s1600/IMG_20180215_224831.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1197" data-original-width="1600" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_URy7mb4qriSOvGR5hh1EekKSlJTZKeYF0tQiXL-hJC9U9YNtAx9OOd0l71CV4Wpur7V69NHLCbns3jOKkvAWqMXmNsbY9BY-kmpImIYElvm3kiMsgTK8nab3T6COBOqVcSB_xhdRY1g/s320/IMG_20180215_224831.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Edge on, showing the overcast.</td></tr>
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<h3>
Whipstitch/Overcasting/Oversewing/Hemstitch: </h3>
The third of our quartet of base stitches, and another that everyone knows by one generic name or another…is the whipstitch (my preferred term). A whipstitch is typically used to bind an edge or hem a piece, and consists of simply inserting the needle from one side repeatedly…at its most base form you end up with something that looks like a spiral bound notebook. For the most part, it is an easy way to fell seam allowances (either open or to one side), or to secure a single or double folded hem on a garment. In either of those cases I generally prefer to stitch with my needle pointed to my inside and parallel to the grain of the fabric if it is going to be visible on the right side; by following the grain of the fabric the stitch becomes less obtrusive. The exception are fabrics which easily fray or tear, where I will usually have the needle running diagonally across the grain in order to catch more threads….but if your fabric is that delicate, a different stitch may be called for, such as a catch-stitch, since it covers the edge more completely. <br />
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The whipstitch in general is useable in just about any fabric, and with any thread (following the usual rules about thread/fabric choices). If you are felling a seam/hem on a fuzzy or thick wool, it is not all that difficult to make the stitches invisible from the right side, by keeping the thread buried in the nap of the wool. When felling seam allowances, there are two ways you can angle the thread on the wrong side; either with the grain of the seam allowance, which buries the thread and makes it almost invisible. Alternatively, you can go steeply across the grain, which gives more surface area for more loosely woven fabrics. In addition, you can often take two or three stitches before pulling the thread tight…this is sadly only possible with stronger, well behaved threads-- otherwise they tend to tangle. <br />
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<h4>
Couched Overcast/Whipstitch: </h4>
This is a “fun” little stitch, which works much the same and follows similar rules to using plain whipstitch. However, the stitches also secure a cord, which has a couple of purposes. The addition of the cord helps keep the seam from stretching when you have a fully bias cut seam because the cord will not stretch much, as well as filling the gap between stitches to make snagging your hem slightly less likely. It is important to note that the cord is not merely run under the stitches, but consists of two cords plied together…a 180 degree twist per stitch. This is most easily done with opposite holes in a card weaving tablet, and prevents the cord from slipping out of place as it eventually will if you just run it under the stitches. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHNzK-aaqK8UO_YAIA_9syhyhf0PnYuKsF3GkPLV9P-M3swbGrbjzNy14nf0w-tyy5b299aJSEf8SYXcTHBPIMbolaEHxlEEr-75WMBCsialSIX0-O_DO5HLw5yzeH_scT2_aQLvFbsqw/s1600/100_4008.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHNzK-aaqK8UO_YAIA_9syhyhf0PnYuKsF3GkPLV9P-M3swbGrbjzNy14nf0w-tyy5b299aJSEf8SYXcTHBPIMbolaEHxlEEr-75WMBCsialSIX0-O_DO5HLw5yzeH_scT2_aQLvFbsqw/s320/100_4008.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">From the seam allowances of a<a href="http://matsukazesewing.blogspot.com/2014/12/14th-century-womens-hood-documentation.html" target="_blank"> 14th century hood</a>.</td></tr>
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Like Singling, the couched overcast stitch primarily shows up in the Greenland finds, on page 100 of <i>Woven into the Earth</i>.<br />
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<h4>
Slipstitch:</h4>
I am going to discuss a couple of almost identical stitches, which are used for /almost/ the same thing…but it is important to keep them separate. The slipstitch is best used for things like felling facings, where you are sewing down a folded or otherwise stable edge to something with several layers. It should not be visible on the outside of the garment. Essentially, it is performed by catching a few threads of the facing and immediately burying the needle between layer before coming up and repeating. The stitches do not have to be particularly close, but /do/ need to be regular in length since they are visible. As a rule, you want to use a moderately light thread for this purpose, which matches the facing in colour, assuming it is not contrasting as a decorative feature—not a period feature to the best of my knowledge. While I said this is primarily for facings, you may also use it to fasten linings to the turned edge of structured garments (around armscyes, hems, and cuffs) so that the lining is back from the turned edge by a 1/4th inch or so (and therefore invisible during regular wear). For this use I usually use it in conjunction with a herringbone to secure the multiple outer layers, which then gets covered with the lining and pressed.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCDpq4HN3RwEjSFBWMR4wUc13XIG95Jc3QJyICdjL8N23-vo4woUfHK0Y3__wbn1rueo2mrjqZmuARXxG8h9UcXTCj5gby3r1vD_PbNIps7LLsTtB66AFxvP0b_R5EyoMnJ8j2B3lI1xw/s1600/IMG_20180215_223610.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1404" data-original-width="1600" height="280" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCDpq4HN3RwEjSFBWMR4wUc13XIG95Jc3QJyICdjL8N23-vo4woUfHK0Y3__wbn1rueo2mrjqZmuARXxG8h9UcXTCj5gby3r1vD_PbNIps7LLsTtB66AFxvP0b_R5EyoMnJ8j2B3lI1xw/s320/IMG_20180215_223610.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Slipstitch, from the top and with the layers separated.</td></tr>
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Rory Duffy has <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U7MjIgjscVw" target="_blank">a tutorial on the stitch</a> under the name of "felling stitch", which is lovely, since I thoroughly enjoy listening to his accent. He also includes a number of subtleties in practice.<br />
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<h4>
Hemstitch: </h4>
While it is worked much the same as the slipstitch and looks the same from the wrong side, it is used in places where you only have one layer of fabric to anchor to—such as turned hems. When working the hemstitch, you will bring the needle back up to the wrong side of the fabric, then run the needle through the fold of your fabric until the next stitch. In the finished product, it looks essentially the same as the rolled hem stitch further up this article, just with a larger hem. As a general rule, it is best used when you have a hem or similar, and speed and invisibility are more important than something which is sturdier (such as whipstitch).<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbedmbH8_cqzti3k_-hCiF8yRWGHg8h4kmg6bpFRd-B28meuVIcgJkPoNX0sNF3W7hpxwkiMFjcrKRnwip80L5SEZikCY5CA5eS3k_yYbroI_7JCRWGchhzgNvTCNyFd__a9fz3C_VOyE/s1600/IMG_20180215_223624.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1209" data-original-width="1600" height="241" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbedmbH8_cqzti3k_-hCiF8yRWGHg8h4kmg6bpFRd-B28meuVIcgJkPoNX0sNF3W7hpxwkiMFjcrKRnwip80L5SEZikCY5CA5eS3k_yYbroI_7JCRWGchhzgNvTCNyFd__a9fz3C_VOyE/s320/IMG_20180215_223624.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Blind Hemstitch.</td></tr>
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As they are so similar, everything I said in regards to the slipstitch applies to this one as well. In fact you can use it in place of a slipstitch (but not vice versa), but it is slower.<br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dzlEGW0M9sjPIQgGqEcsT9LH1PUklQIYcxNhV9BQUaXcG1XCeizU9dt0bSxlsP_SMlEEGpKS2FeyeWFTkdnww' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>
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I actually found there were no video tutorials of what I mean by a hemstitch...at least not a true blind hemstitch as I prefer to use. So I threw together a rough one at least.<br />
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<h4>
Rolled Hemstitch: </h4>
While you would think that this is a whipstitch, especially since I have it sorted into that category, it isn't necessarily. Or at least, one of the three styles isn’t. The first two are easily documentable through the Viking age and 16th century…it is simpler but also a bit slower. Essentially, you roll the fabric in your wetted fingers, then either sew the rolled edge down this tiny hemstitches or completely overcast the rolled edge. It would be used on any lightweight fabrics for the edges of veils or on shirts, and should use thread which matches that of the fabric since the stitches will be visible. Stitches are quite close…Textiles and Clothing notes that the example is around 12-15 stitches per inch [1. Pp. 158]. Photographs of extant examples of this type of hem may be found in the 14th, and 16th centuries [3. 17].<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXgo6CwAy_pxR2Bmv-JydJhPgvDbT357rts2JV-7efoFOdcAl01Owvas4I_DyqC6qQKCEJptN3D3aLX_ouqwx48yp6zZ6NMXVcyRyC_2oEL9I7YRX-84W3SSPzTvYCltzOw9MXAWSHl3s/s1600/IMG_20180118_161642.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXgo6CwAy_pxR2Bmv-JydJhPgvDbT357rts2JV-7efoFOdcAl01Owvas4I_DyqC6qQKCEJptN3D3aLX_ouqwx48yp6zZ6NMXVcyRyC_2oEL9I7YRX-84W3SSPzTvYCltzOw9MXAWSHl3s/s320/IMG_20180118_161642.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Textiles and Clothing 1150 - 1450. </i>Rolled Hem.</td></tr>
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The third variety is sometimes known as “the magic veil stitch”. It really is a running stitch, where the thread is progressing in a straight line through the layers of the finished product. As you might guess by the name, it is specifically for hemming extremely light, fiddly fabrics--linens and silks for the most part, although it could show up on a wool gauze as well. <br />
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Essentially, the stitch is a staggered running stitch, performed at a turned edge of the fabric and the raw edge of the turn. Start off by folding the edge of your fabric in by 1/8-1/16th of an inch and pressing it into submission. Start your needle at the fold, take a tiny stitch parallel to the raw edge, then up into and inside the fold. Then repeat. After you have done a few inches of stitches, pull the thread tight, and if you did it right, you will have a finely rolled hem...it's really cool, actually. When your thread breaks or runs out, anchor it at the folded edge of the fabric after pulling it tight, then start the new thread just behind it in the seam. <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Dt_5vnOJ_E" target="_blank">This tutorial is fairly clear</a>, although I generally recommend shorter stitches here than she uses.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEju6N5j4mdtMb9ZQA3eX3epFmPhHw8v64VWhGNh6bl9Vt7TIlTpggRHfPmnqK_z3bkH9X9sRlPV9H9U9yQbRuTUCoR_d9S6cyYCPUk0rpIUTDFAlrUri4QLRNW9LZm62331YOsqtgzb_eg/s1600/25311389_1391228494337920_4798106134165510939_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="1080" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEju6N5j4mdtMb9ZQA3eX3epFmPhHw8v64VWhGNh6bl9Vt7TIlTpggRHfPmnqK_z3bkH9X9sRlPV9H9U9yQbRuTUCoR_d9S6cyYCPUk0rpIUTDFAlrUri4QLRNW9LZm62331YOsqtgzb_eg/s320/25311389_1391228494337920_4798106134165510939_o.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The first style, with the finger rolled hem being hemstitched.<br />
This is a work shirt in cotton.</td></tr>
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Some tips are to use a well behaving and preferably strong thread--I got by with linen, but silk probably would have worked better and hopefully resulted in a bit less frustrating breakage. Wax your thread for lubrication more than stickiness. Trim the edge of the fabric so it's smooth...the stitch doesn't work all that well if there are irregularities in the edge. Using shorter threads helps somewhat, as does pulling it tight every few inches, instead of every foot; something which will depend on your thread, because the more times you pull it taut and take that next stitch, the slower it goes....you have to find a balance. <br />
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Unfortunately, I have not found evidence of the third variety until the beginning of the 18th century [3. P.57], where you can see something that /could/ be it…it is described just as being “hemmed”. You do see it in one form (finished form more like an overcast stitch, rather than the slip stitch) in the Ladies Guide to Plain Sewing using this method of pulling the stitches tight combined with overcast stitch [4. P.16]…however, there are no notes as to the source of the image used, although at least a couple of the books in the bibliography are from the 18th century. <br />
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<h4>
“Mantua Maker’s Seam”:</h4>
I have not used this one much, nor am likely to. However, this is another one of those seams which are designed to streamline production by avoiding re-sewing a seam as much as possible. In this case, it is a way to sew and fell the seam allowances on lightweight to sheer fabrics; French seam, or sewing then felling are other options…however, both require sewing the seam twice, slowing you down if you are a professional. It is worked by placing your fabrics right sides together, turning the raw edges under as if you were felling the seam allowance down, then actually felling it through all layers without sewing the seam first. I recommend using a fairly light thread (light fabric, light thread), which matches the primary colour of the fashion fabric. Try to keep your needle insertion perpendicular to the seam so they don’t slant through the layers. Burnley and Trowbridge put <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XZxmfjTOGKs" target="_blank">out a video tutorial</a>, which even includes an early 19th century extant example.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbqAJT_Msp25qXylOj8eeD7ddrwMpT0muaURURgG_T6ohTzbYS6APKEd6l_M3-pkwuk3adFtrewlC0ynzYwIvP2MzoB8Lnd3p_bfXLLjIRTF3L0UXTABj_BsHd3ihWihi-vGcg5EDWQ2c/s1600/IMG_20180215_224033.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="917" data-original-width="1600" height="183" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbqAJT_Msp25qXylOj8eeD7ddrwMpT0muaURURgG_T6ohTzbYS6APKEd6l_M3-pkwuk3adFtrewlC0ynzYwIvP2MzoB8Lnd3p_bfXLLjIRTF3L0UXTABj_BsHd3ihWihi-vGcg5EDWQ2c/s320/IMG_20180215_224033.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Thick, contrasting thread used for display purposes.</td></tr>
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<h4>
Padstitching!:</h4>
One of my absolute favourite stitches and sewing tasks. Even though it isn’t used for seams, I consider it to be a whipstitch as you have the same spiraling stitch motion, if worked on the flat of the fabric. Padstitching can be used for a few different purposes: permanently shaping multiple layers of fabric, quilting padding into place, stiffening layers of fabric, and basting. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh72-bskpI-hxh6kKAyiqYPhBg8LumYlwSTaZvRejVu75BnQU5cqYOjLM1NjSlciM8v_1DHjOUy7VhUaZpZiBUBGEE6OFYl-scXrpKvYpSs0W6aRedV9tDanMii_w9hDXA6TdkUDPGEKys/s1600/13392200_892686434192131_1908378315426556392_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh72-bskpI-hxh6kKAyiqYPhBg8LumYlwSTaZvRejVu75BnQU5cqYOjLM1NjSlciM8v_1DHjOUy7VhUaZpZiBUBGEE6OFYl-scXrpKvYpSs0W6aRedV9tDanMii_w9hDXA6TdkUDPGEKys/s320/13392200_892686434192131_1908378315426556392_o.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A doublet back--belonging to my <a href="http://matsukazesewing.blogspot.com/2016/08/the-next-piece-stripey-doublet-of.html" target="_blank">Red Striped Doublet</a>, I believe.</td></tr>
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The primary use is, of course, for padstitching—a method of permanently joining (yes, technically quilting) the layers in a structured garment over a curve (often your fingers or knee) in order to curve it to your body. Normally, the layers worked are the canvassing/haircloth/ some padding (not necessarily in that order), although occasionally it becomes visible on the outside of the fabric, if in a generally concealed place such as the lapels of a jacket, or stand and fall of a collar. When you padstitch, you generally want to keep the stitch on the backside fairly small in order to get the most benefit out of it—this is where I use pricking my forefinger as a gauge--, but playing with stitch size and tension can give subtle effects on the amount and springiness of the curve. <br />
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I generally use a medium to heavy weight linen thread for my padstitching, as it gives the right combination of price and strength (combined with authenticity); like basting, I don’t worry too much about neatness and trimming the tail end, because speed and effect are the important things here…the stitches won’t be seen. However, if the fashion layer over it is a lighter fabric, I recommend either burying the knot or making it neater in order to prevent it from showing through. In addition, because you are going through multiple layers of heavy fabrics, I /strongly/ recommend a thimble—probably more so than with any other stitch. There are a couple ways you can treat the fabrics…either baste around the edges first—which results in some puckering and shrinkage so is not recommended; or leave them lose. In either case you should work from either the center or one side to the other to allow the under layers to shift—which starting point I use depends on the size of the piece being worked. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXtwVtWIpcpAlBwKp03tjTt9PN4NMBGiRAAkCE7ay5UBNJ2BqiNQpe4t_dhU10pCyRtsa11qpIECC9Sceo882FOJqUvBbOEDYg4uXMzCJZKBO_HBUyhAU5MJ_8oJbq4h5qrHgG8Q8Srw4/s1600/IMG_20180118_162743.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXtwVtWIpcpAlBwKp03tjTt9PN4NMBGiRAAkCE7ay5UBNJ2BqiNQpe4t_dhU10pCyRtsa11qpIECC9Sceo882FOJqUvBbOEDYg4uXMzCJZKBO_HBUyhAU5MJ_8oJbq4h5qrHgG8Q8Srw4/s320/IMG_20180118_162743.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Page 76, <i>PoF</i> 3</td></tr>
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As for quilting the padding, you are looking at using rather large, even stitches, which—on the right side—show up as neat squares. The long, diagonal stitches on the wrong side help keep the wool or cotton-wool in place. You can see an excellent example of what I am talking about on page 76 of <span id="goog_343252390"></span><i>Patterns of Fashion 3<span id="goog_343252391"></span></i>. <br />
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The section of clothing a padstitch is normally used to stiffen and shape are the breast and collar of a structured garment (although I made <a href="http://matsukazesewing.blogspot.com/2017/01/the-final-piecethe-tall-hat.html" target="_blank">a tall hat</a> shaped and stiffened entirely with padstitching), where the horizontal lines of stitches form vertical channels…this is what causes the stiffening, along with the interplay of tension of the front collar against the back. As a rule, the stitching here is often visible as a large quantity of tiny puckers on the underside—this is why the underside of many suit collars is made of a wool felt rather than something lighter, in order to allow the thread to be buried. Obviously when you do this, you want a lighter weight but strong thread--silk—which matches the outer fabric in colour, and your stitches need to be even. I have also heard of people entirely padstitching an entire Elizabethan bodice interlining to give support and a smooth finish to the bodice. <br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguFBLwA7XfBCpbh58yieJuhQ-LH3LPO11erWceeZiBigJJSqMqa0zp16LVsQUvirhZRpix_bG076tnARtfljhjZJH_hIc7bujxu8hrmSe_7lV5OvotQZ9I8sQ7dZRxJF8CcILNSZ5lj_o/s1600/padstitchingfront.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="597" data-original-width="638" height="299" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguFBLwA7XfBCpbh58yieJuhQ-LH3LPO11erWceeZiBigJJSqMqa0zp16LVsQUvirhZRpix_bG076tnARtfljhjZJH_hIc7bujxu8hrmSe_7lV5OvotQZ9I8sQ7dZRxJF8CcILNSZ5lj_o/s320/padstitchingfront.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">As in this example by Centuries-Sewing, intended for a version<br />
the Pisa Gown. Read more <a href="http://centuries-sewing.com/2010/04/15/the-red-pisa-gown-building-the-bodice-part-2/" target="_blank">HERE</a>.</td></tr>
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Lastly, I use a loose padstitch for basting in certain cases—mainly ones where I am concerned with the layers of fabric slipping along each other as I sew (more of a worry when sewing with machine), since the stitching keeps it from moving either vertically or horizontally. When used for this purpose, it may also be called Diagonal Basting. This is also important when you are easing two seams together that are different lengths. Needless to say, avoiding slippage is particularly important when pattern matching fabrics. The other time I will use a loose padstitch is when basting around buttonholes prior to cutting the hole: using a pad stitch--in addition to being better at preventing shifting of layers—means you do not have to keep shifting the garment you are working on, as you would with a running stitch; just take some stitch up, a couple over, then back down. The time and effort saved is important when you might be preparing 40+ buttonholes at once.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNkE0xOQMu9R5QaTMoK3CRLLluhyphenhyphenBG2a6-NN0e7PKkX-LCI-D-mDyRnBSAg32lgWwTILBZiMxwwJZ8ZsPnzFoNV2A1m-6vfzPFBnbwgHWwieEl5PkcdBIrXoFW8_ki78rGRLSt8ozh6J8/s1600/14195933_963151380478969_6310040653926431980_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNkE0xOQMu9R5QaTMoK3CRLLluhyphenhyphenBG2a6-NN0e7PKkX-LCI-D-mDyRnBSAg32lgWwTILBZiMxwwJZ8ZsPnzFoNV2A1m-6vfzPFBnbwgHWwieEl5PkcdBIrXoFW8_ki78rGRLSt8ozh6J8/s320/14195933_963151380478969_6310040653926431980_o.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Prior to cutting the scalloped hem of the Brunswick jerkin,<br />
I used a padstitch to baste them.</td></tr>
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There are a couple of different tutorials I have run across--one from <a href="http://garb4guys.blogspot.com/2008/02/pad-stitching-with-demo.html" target="_blank">Scott Perkins at Garb-for-Guys</a>, and one from <a href="http://www.sempstress.org/skill/pad-stitching/" target="_blank">The Sempstress</a>.<br />
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<h3>
Buttonhole stitch: </h3>
Those who know me, know that I am one of those weird, masochistic seamsters who actually likes sewing buttonholes. A good thing I am…most of the later period clothing I enjoy tends to have a multitude of them! The primary place buttonhole stitch is used, is, of course, for buttonholes in clothing from roughly 1300 and onwards. While it may possibly be used for eyelets as well I feel this is overkill. The buttonhole stitch may be used for a decorative hem stitching on occasion, but that is not a topic of this article. <br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5fRRa1gPbm9TqJvrpylJdomnhDqBuwLda1TN9kQL8ZcBHKqQtQ50r6WnZpfHO-B5aTz6nMSyTZ-Vs1m_h3HZw9d3q6qoGDmcvpMa60fa4x5B3oMIuSsiUhfl4D8-JhZLY_Z0k7fyRCuY/s1600/IMG_20161021_134112.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5fRRa1gPbm9TqJvrpylJdomnhDqBuwLda1TN9kQL8ZcBHKqQtQ50r6WnZpfHO-B5aTz6nMSyTZ-Vs1m_h3HZw9d3q6qoGDmcvpMa60fa4x5B3oMIuSsiUhfl4D8-JhZLY_Z0k7fyRCuY/s320/IMG_20161021_134112.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sewing here is finished, but the basting threads<br />
are still in place. <a href="http://matsukazesewing.blogspot.com/2016/11/1570s-germans-continued-jerkin.html" target="_blank">Jerkin from the Brunswick suit</a>.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
It is /extremely/ important to not mix up buttonhole and blanket stitches. Blanket stitches only loop the thread…buttonholes form a knot, or perl, with each stitch. This means that if the thread breaks, it won’t all come undone. I am against using blanket stitch in general, mostly for that reason. <br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCEI2pu6Wkj0yRKU5HZG-NXkX7PKDr5xZm_TDHzVgKA5PXMqNWa9nFRru1B8gBZwKh8NuyDZwCyyfh0SBTMEuHifdDN2r9rnW2QKXAFtdBMluyxLM3ewhEPWtM18pTgwJke-El2dqtFlA/s1600/100_4234.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCEI2pu6Wkj0yRKU5HZG-NXkX7PKDr5xZm_TDHzVgKA5PXMqNWa9nFRru1B8gBZwKh8NuyDZwCyyfh0SBTMEuHifdDN2r9rnW2QKXAFtdBMluyxLM3ewhEPWtM18pTgwJke-El2dqtFlA/s320/100_4234.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://matsukazesewing.blogspot.com/2015/05/1370s-blue-cottehardie-hsm-april-war.html" target="_blank">Blue wool cottehardie.</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
On sewing buttonholes, you should first <a href="http://matsukazesewing.blogspot.com/2015/07/buttonholes-through-periods.html" target="_blank">read my article </a>on the topic of how they evolve through their timeline. I feel it is particularly important to use the correct buttonhole style for the period you are sewing in…to the point of it being a “make it or break it” thing for a garment looking right. Tutorials for each style are linked in the appropriate sections of the buttonhole article.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDJtPYvEEKlymIJlI7V8Bg2-wUsv64er5PTqMzQo45x5wCZ6yYkL5mNxj3V0tiNgiJPbG5oahMHGy86AdtBKjnM44E80bUIC4d-lzZu3yVfq5O37uKXinyQRDkB04IPNDARonLqMn-s0I/s1600/IMG_20160802_021003.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDJtPYvEEKlymIJlI7V8Bg2-wUsv64er5PTqMzQo45x5wCZ6yYkL5mNxj3V0tiNgiJPbG5oahMHGy86AdtBKjnM44E80bUIC4d-lzZu3yVfq5O37uKXinyQRDkB04IPNDARonLqMn-s0I/s320/IMG_20160802_021003.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The 16th century buttonholes on the striped doublet.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
As for waxing, sometimes I will wax the thread, sometimes I do not. If I am sewing the buttonhole with perl cotton (DMC floss) I will usually wax it with paraffin, and run the waxed thread though my fist a few times to make the wax penetrate. When using other threads…it varies. Linen gets heavily waxed. Wool cannot be waxed, and silk buttonhole twist, I also do not wax. You will have to use your judgment, and it depends on the fabrics you are sewing as well. If the fabric frays easily, waxed thread doesn’t help with that since it can tug the fibers out of place. <br />
<br />
<ul>
<li>When you sew buttonholes, the prepwork is important, particularly if you are going through more than two layers of cloth (as you usually will be). Baste around the perimeter of the buttonhole location, as discussed in the padstitching section. </li>
<li>Cut the buttonhole with a chisel instead of scissors, this gives a neater edge and keeps it from getting uneven; for the super tiny buttonholes you see in 14th century sleeves, you can sharpen a flat head screwdriver and use that as a chisel. Do make sure the cut is long enough for the period as well…for the most part, they should be just long enough for the button to fit through, with the exception of 1680s to maybe 1780s where the length of the buttonhole was a feature. </li>
<li>If you have more than three layers of fabric or fabric which likes to fray, whipstitch the edge with a fine silk thread, preferably matching the fabric. This both keeps the layers from shifting while you work the buttonhole stitch, and helps keep the fabric from fraying as you do so. </li>
<li>While I typically recommend working in sequence…baste all of them, then cut, then baste the edges with a finely set whipstitch to keep it from fraying...if the fabric tends to fray I recommend cutting one at a time and basting the edges before cutting the next one. </li>
<li>Use a “gimp” thread if called for…that would be after the 1680s mark or so. The gimp thread is a heavy, extremely stiff thread—usually silk--used as a filler and to keep the fabric from stretching—it is not something you can leave off if you are cutting the buttonholes on anything other than straight of grain. </li>
<li>Choose your buttonhole thread carefully…use the correct size and colour for the period in question. Roughly, earlier buttonholes could be somewhat coarse in thread; Georgian buttonholes would be quite fine, with tiny stitches, later periods… it depends. Take class into account, if applicable. Buttonholes are one of those things which would generally be worked in silk, not only because they were highly visible decorative features, but for the strength and because smooth thread makes a neater buttonhole. However, I quite often work them in DMC floss as a cheaper substitute, or even linen and wool on occasion (not generally recommended). </li>
<li>The mnemonic I use to remember which way to wrap for a correct perl is the tail of the thread—the doubled thread coming out of the needle’s eye—wraps around the point of the needle in the direction you are sewing. The working thread (the side attached to the cloth) needs to be aligned with the buttonhole in the direction you came from—to do otherwise can end up with indistinct perls. I much prefer this method of wrapping to slipping the needle through the loop of thread, which often gets twisted. </li>
<li>The distance between stitches should be no less than half the thickness of the thread. It can be more, depending on period and class, but less and you will have issues with evenness. </li>
<li>As you pull the thread tight, keep your hand going in the same angle—around 45 to 60*. If you pull straight to the side, the perl will end up inside the buttonhole slit instead of on top of it. Appropriate for 14th century when you work from the wrong side, but no other time that I’ve noted. It is also important to keep your tension the same with each stitch, and not to pull the stitches too tight. </li>
<li>Pay attention to the bar tacks on the end (if applicable. 14th century buttonholes have no bar tack). They are a fine detail that most people may not notice, but are still important. Bar tacks and what periods they are required for are discussed in my Buttonholes Though the Ages article. </li>
<li>Practice…it is a good idea to do one or two practice buttonholes through all the same layers and with the same thread before you cut into your garment. </li>
<li>One hint I have run across is to start working your buttonholes somewhere around the middle of the line and work out from there. That way, you don't get a obvious gradient of poor to nicely sewn buttonholes as your skills improve.</li>
</ul>
<br />
<br />
<h3>
A Point (or two) in Closing:</h3>
Typically there is no one way to do something…there might be the most appropriate or neatest way, most period way, and the most efficient way. It is up to you to decide which is the most important to you….just make sure to note down /why/ you made that decision for your documentation. <br />
<br />
In a couple of the stitches (the two “all in one” seams), I talk about the importance of efficiency to professionals . If you think about it, when you are being paid by the /garment/ not by the hour, you will need to do things as quickly and efficiently as possible. The real most efficient way is for individuals to specialize. Think of it this way; if you are only doing one task (say, sewing pockets) you are going to get in your 10,000 hours or repetitions much more quickly than someone who is doing every step…obviously, that isn’t an option for hobbyists like us. I have heard it said, more than once, that old shops would do that…one person per task or piece. However, reading through Nothing but the Best by Thomas Girtin, on page 28-29 he talks about streamlining in this way having “invaded certain of the workrooms” and how suits made in this manner were missing an indefinable personal touch he remembers. This book was written in the 1950s. Figure then, that the assembly line method of commercial bespoke clothing construction /may/ not have shown up until the 20th century at the earliest, since the author remembers it being done by individual. Then again, I could be wrong. I will admit that buttonholes were probably done by an individual paid by the piece, and that specializing in individual garments was likely (this tailor in the shop might be better at or focused on leg coverings, that one may be outer garments, and a third may be best at upper body garments, etc.).<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<h3>
Bibliography:</h3>
1. Crowfoot, Elisabeth; Pritchard, Frances; Staniland, Kay. Textiles and Clothing 1150-1450 (Boydell Press, for Museum of London. 2001) <br />
2. Baker, Jennifer. Stitches and Seam Techniques. Webpage, 2009. <a href="http://nvg.org.au/documents/other/stitches.pdf">http://nvg.org.au/documents/other/stitches.pdf</a> [Accessed 12-2-17] <br />
3. Arnold, Janet. Patterns of Fashion 4. (MacMillan, 2008). <br />
4. Kannik, Kathleen. The Lady’s Guide to Plain Sewing,. (Published by Kannik’s Korner. 1993). PDF copy. <br />
5. Baumgarten, Linda; Watson, John. Costume Close-Up: Clothing Construction and Patterns 1750 – 1790. (Colonial Williamsburg Foundation, 1999). <br />
6. Unknown. The boy's book of trades : and the tools used in them. (London : George Routledge and Sons, 1866.) Digital Format <a href="https://catalog.hathitrust.org/Record/100008198">https://catalog.hathitrust.org/Record/100008198</a> [Accessed 12-26-17] <br />
7. Ryan, Mildred Graves. Thrift with a needle; the complete book of mending. (New York, Scribner, 1954). Digital Format: <a href="https://catalog.hathitrust.org/Record/009113336">https://catalog.hathitrust.org/Record/009113336</a> [Accessed 12-26-17]<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=2468874881802139741#_ednref1">[i]</a> Thread sizes: <a href="https://vignette.wikia.nocookie.net/tardis/images/0/03/Ood_Sigma_%26_Co.jpg/revision/latest?cb=20140208021652">https://vignette.wikia.nocookie.net/tardis/images/0/03/Ood_Sigma_%26_Co.jpg/revision/latest?cb=20140208021652</a> <br />
<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=2468874881802139741#_ednref2">[ii]</a> <a href="http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/~marc-carlson/cloth/stitches.htm">http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/~marc-carlson/cloth/stitches.htm</a> <br />
<a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=2468874881802139741#_ednref3">[iii]</a> <a href="http://heatherrosejones.com/archaeologicalsewing/wool.html#WEMisc">http://heatherrosejones.com/archaeologicalsewing/wool.html#WEMisc</a><br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">©
John Frey, 2018. The Author of this work retains full copyright for this
material. Permission is granted to make and distribute verbatim copies of this
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the copyright notice and this permission notice are preserved on all copies.</span></span></div>
Brann mac Finnchadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04614813862245766203noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2468874881802139741.post-61183783964198270862018-02-07T13:56:00.002-09:002018-02-07T21:55:51.785-09:00Comfort At Home, a Historical Sew Monthly Inspiration PostI am fairly confident in saying that throughout history, people have wanted to be comfortable in their home, especially when the weather outside is...less than pleasant. So, the challenge for March is Comfort at Home.<br />
<br />
The official definition is to "Make something to wear around the (historical) house". We were having some issues with wording there... What this means is clothing which would primarily be worn in the informal comfort of your own home, rather than out in public, and certainly not to a formal event! Don't just think physically comfortable, but mentally as well--is there some historical thing which you find soothing (which involves sewing)? <br />
We do encourage you to think outside the box--do some research, argue your point, and odds are that you will get by with it!<br />
<br />
I jump around a good bit in this post rather than organizing by theme and gender (which is my preference), but the ideas which help more for earlier periods are towards the end.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivDzZaG-Ecgjxyq8KYgzmInDjxCcbHakhdQCXUqEACQu_AEHspa8p6BrmoM-Zyhmeln9aRKX0zJbJMot9Miaa1-B6nQfYUGKkuQVaL1svkCJMvTbjbkWXuyCYieIsFo0zeEAvcvXhtiMg/s1600/6a01156f47abbe970c0120a763d231970b-800wi.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1437" data-original-width="800" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivDzZaG-Ecgjxyq8KYgzmInDjxCcbHakhdQCXUqEACQu_AEHspa8p6BrmoM-Zyhmeln9aRKX0zJbJMot9Miaa1-B6nQfYUGKkuQVaL1svkCJMvTbjbkWXuyCYieIsFo0zeEAvcvXhtiMg/s320/6a01156f47abbe970c0120a763d231970b-800wi.jpg" width="178" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kimono Dressing Gown, 1885<br />
<a href="http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/2009/12/kimono-dressing-gown.html" target="_blank">FIDM Museum, 80.40.1</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<a name='more'></a>Night-gowns and caps, banyans and dressing gowns and robes de chambres are all obvious choices, especially for post 16th century. <br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwXPmyv1JQYtgmtOP9-TImWBgXpF0-MMlAHvNLSapn8Sj8VktttaXGfvUoO3WgnG9BKxorGHctmHCEKKCUiVN9VTTOoWqqX5GO8d1D9A-KKZHHIQm4YAMiM79wQzPnT6L-qf0zlaygRjY/s1600/2006BA0543_jpg_ds.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="355" data-original-width="355" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwXPmyv1JQYtgmtOP9-TImWBgXpF0-MMlAHvNLSapn8Sj8VktttaXGfvUoO3WgnG9BKxorGHctmHCEKKCUiVN9VTTOoWqqX5GO8d1D9A-KKZHHIQm4YAMiM79wQzPnT6L-qf0zlaygRjY/s320/2006BA0543_jpg_ds.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lady's Banyan, 1750s<br />
<a href="http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O85965/banyan-garthwaite-anna-maria/" target="_blank">V&A Museum. T.92-2003 </a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Quilted jumps being worn as an alternative to stiffer stays could be
considered informal-wear, although there is <a href="http://thedreamstress.com/2013/08/terminology-whats-the-difference-between-stays-jumps-a-corsets/" target="_blank">some debate on that</a>.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0V4vZnJnUT8CBrkEJQYg7WzAta59pwZ1QXnuRjtd_DWE9k8-eoG4mb0jhySpFPNhRlftJUfeedrPnBC1solc7DaBsjCsvJhnywzskRmnGV4UGU2h043y6xwQGuGE3i2aJej50c95I8Kg/s1600/2006AC7227_jpg_ds.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="355" data-original-width="355" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0V4vZnJnUT8CBrkEJQYg7WzAta59pwZ1QXnuRjtd_DWE9k8-eoG4mb0jhySpFPNhRlftJUfeedrPnBC1solc7DaBsjCsvJhnywzskRmnGV4UGU2h043y6xwQGuGE3i2aJej50c95I8Kg/s320/2006AC7227_jpg_ds.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O13542/waistcoat-unknown/" target="_blank">V&A 1745. T.87-1978</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
This pair is labeled by the V&A as being a quilted waistcoat, with a note that it would be worn over the stays with a quilted bedgown and petticoat as warm informal wear...which would totally count!<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFjIAFBORJyD0gdrKVhKUogQ2aEV850dIEHLHflNle66DdOCAv6faU4wOXQaTib_FnTTJ3TiaS0_uTbQ9D0ErSA3leGIQh33jama4b3ydsIk21px7_8_eyoLnuITiiymI5nXhYwzQb3TU/s1600/22413c1269c4bf1132490167c2fcc246.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="383" data-original-width="236" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFjIAFBORJyD0gdrKVhKUogQ2aEV850dIEHLHflNle66DdOCAv6faU4wOXQaTib_FnTTJ3TiaS0_uTbQ9D0ErSA3leGIQh33jama4b3ydsIk21px7_8_eyoLnuITiiymI5nXhYwzQb3TU/s320/22413c1269c4bf1132490167c2fcc246.jpg" width="197" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/84312?img=0" target="_blank">The MET. #1986.179.1</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
And an example of a bedjacket from around the same period (give or take a few decades...the museum doesn't give an exact date). Both of the pieces are in quilted silk.<br />
<br />
Also an option is footwear meant for informal settings...slippers, for one. Mules are another term to look for.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzkgLMU3HSB3NpNQPRDZMMOZ-23iyLKKrFMknB4j5nnYa4MeBUY42X-wdqKCEvnnxxaJPoMhVi8sWIZJ_mt2KkgyycdDU40wj0WmcquHPrrTnqyoPPZuU4HOvT37sv38z38kXWYaXp9NU/s1600/2006AM7015_jpg_ds.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="355" data-original-width="355" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzkgLMU3HSB3NpNQPRDZMMOZ-23iyLKKrFMknB4j5nnYa4MeBUY42X-wdqKCEvnnxxaJPoMhVi8sWIZJ_mt2KkgyycdDU40wj0WmcquHPrrTnqyoPPZuU4HOvT37sv38z38kXWYaXp9NU/s320/2006AM7015_jpg_ds.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O62545/pair-of-slippers-muir-w/" target="_blank">V&A. AP.6A-1868</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
These are a decidedly interesting pair, dating to the 3rd quarter of the 19th century...they are supposedly made of snakeskin--I would hate to meet that snake that the leather came off of!--, and lined with quilted silk. The discussion in the summary of this pair includes the tidbit that slippers were often made at home, with women embroidering the uppers themselves--since we are talking Victorian era, a bit of searching should net you period patterns.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlfnP3yFfSIB3dT9EGekCkkNVjyIr4ckS6V6oUls2cflDhi8G-Tn1vxs1RW4asE1C5-L4IOeCgf7eU5g0LTS1SuYcgQlgA5GXaZSafVHnkKeBUMrcLCrTs-WecUm_IeQeLxGouyEvS30c/s1600/3d5a1aa75077c9fcbc0cddecb4024026.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="391" data-original-width="564" height="221" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlfnP3yFfSIB3dT9EGekCkkNVjyIr4ckS6V6oUls2cflDhi8G-Tn1vxs1RW4asE1C5-L4IOeCgf7eU5g0LTS1SuYcgQlgA5GXaZSafVHnkKeBUMrcLCrTs-WecUm_IeQeLxGouyEvS30c/s320/3d5a1aa75077c9fcbc0cddecb4024026.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.rijksmuseum.nl/nl/collectie/BK-KOG-1280-1-A">Rijksmuseum.</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
A women's mule from the Netherlands, first half of the 17th century. You can see they are of decoratively cut leather, lined with (more) leather, and have stacked (leather) soles and heels.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqVfh1KFoKu28W9qNq1XiV5E07mf1eEKo4LSJ_vpUb5jsvLMp-l9HILKCkSu5z35M-IuUTjz2ryZwHq4ibBRsLd9-ORogm4heWQ8Ignts-nljPKm4ZvavDh4x3_u6uJopMKRQYsN96WhU/s1600/CI46.62.2_F.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="625" data-original-width="239" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqVfh1KFoKu28W9qNq1XiV5E07mf1eEKo4LSJ_vpUb5jsvLMp-l9HILKCkSu5z35M-IuUTjz2ryZwHq4ibBRsLd9-ORogm4heWQ8Ignts-nljPKm4ZvavDh4x3_u6uJopMKRQYsN96WhU/s320/CI46.62.2_F.jpg" width="121" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/109191?rpp=60&pg=1&ft=nightgown&when=A.D.+1800-1900&pos=44" target="_blank">MET C.I.46.62.2</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Nightgowns, of course, are fairly common in later periods. This example in cotton is from the 1850s.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBVOOrmrLJFYI-Nxy9aY-2n7uGm1AWP7OOC1-VrARNs7Kauc9t28rPYTV1rvTcUIp82-arEpRQEvOem6we968wkTutL754jqOh3lwmwFMscwv5avp9ZezVvxlQ0K6VWudkMy8ePx2UVds/s1600/7fbf45a337dc84fe3dadc87bfb561406.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="320" data-original-width="171" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBVOOrmrLJFYI-Nxy9aY-2n7uGm1AWP7OOC1-VrARNs7Kauc9t28rPYTV1rvTcUIp82-arEpRQEvOem6we968wkTutL754jqOh3lwmwFMscwv5avp9ZezVvxlQ0K6VWudkMy8ePx2UVds/s1600/7fbf45a337dc84fe3dadc87bfb561406.jpg" /></a></div>
Housedresses are something I probably wouldn't have thought of on my own, so thank you to the other Moderators who did think of it. And gave me a name to search when I was lost...a Hooverette. The Dreamstress made one several years ago for a HSF challenge, and has links to some information on <a href="http://thedreamstress.com/2013/11/hsf-challenge-23-the-ettie-may-hooverette-dress/" target="_blank">her blog post</a> documenting it.<br />
<br />
<br />
Banyans! Banyans are perhaps my favourite potential part of this challenge, because I enjoy them so much. You have two basic styles--the earlier loose robe variety:<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-7X56BxCzLtdtjLmWTumVhVqy_km6u349OzlEnKduPpnVBD5cjKVT1NlfR7TkGLrpBNZyjfDDxwfxZIy76BN2r403UXZ_tl-udSGfTachDV3Yi0nEQvPUVeZ6wGJadV8cOHiwfAFfQk8/s1600/hb_1981.208.2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1500" data-original-width="1095" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-7X56BxCzLtdtjLmWTumVhVqy_km6u349OzlEnKduPpnVBD5cjKVT1NlfR7TkGLrpBNZyjfDDxwfxZIy76BN2r403UXZ_tl-udSGfTachDV3Yi0nEQvPUVeZ6wGJadV8cOHiwfAFfQk8/s320/hb_1981.208.2.jpg" width="233" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.metmuseum.org/toah/works-of-art/1981.208.2/" target="_blank">The MET 1981.208.2</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Such as this 1730s English example made of brown silk. It is essentially "T" shaped, with some flaring for a wider hem. And if you think this example is boring compared to many others, look closer at the fabric...it may be somewhat drab, but not boring.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhna0oYWKCn-LbsapbM6sVQ0_GckQXDNQDfXvUIRn0rsMMcUHbzmPScxI6yHMGqVmF41m1SV8g1kyIOcRS2TU3e7ydHQsI6J63buoNUU3L6_JbgJvf4tbQz0Kmh_sSvUjhVVcJBbs2mC1A/s1600/2007page23.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="562" data-original-width="300" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhna0oYWKCn-LbsapbM6sVQ0_GckQXDNQDfXvUIRn0rsMMcUHbzmPScxI6yHMGqVmF41m1SV8g1kyIOcRS2TU3e7ydHQsI6J63buoNUU3L6_JbgJvf4tbQz0Kmh_sSvUjhVVcJBbs2mC1A/s320/2007page23.jpg" width="170" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://coraginsburg.com/catalogues/2007/cat2007pg22-23.htm" target="_blank">Silk Banyan. </a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Or the more fitted style, which more or less mimicked the standard outer garment of the period, albeit with a looser fit and usually in a double breasted style. This example is quilted silk and is from the 1760s...I want one. If you are interested in the mid-18th century style, I published <a href="http://matsukazesewing.blogspot.com/2016/09/a-robe-for-reading-drafting-mid-18th.html" target="_blank">a drafting pattern</a> when I made one based on the 1750s one in the LACMA museum. <br />
<br />
The two styles did exist side by side, but over the decades the more fitted style became more prominent, still mirroring the common style of the time, up through the more modern smoking jacket, which is cut similar to a sac coat.<br />
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfcLsOUVfXJpVyVtl-_CAD8Ka_jf70b7YPOYElhzvzGYQgooB52zaOe5yI5vBphuayIuX10F2glrrB-kIkjzJQLVYLQpCVKPPMDIqb8Hv-t_BjP6KcYhYboXMdUv0U7hhrR0hyphenhyphen_jqGXQo/s1600/SC110192.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1244" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfcLsOUVfXJpVyVtl-_CAD8Ka_jf70b7YPOYElhzvzGYQgooB52zaOe5yI5vBphuayIuX10F2glrrB-kIkjzJQLVYLQpCVKPPMDIqb8Hv-t_BjP6KcYhYboXMdUv0U7hhrR0hyphenhyphen_jqGXQo/s320/SC110192.jpg" width="248" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.mfa.org/collections/object/mans-cap-116813" target="_blank">MFA 43.310</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
With the banyan, a cap would also likely be worn, particularly in earlier periods when men often shaved their heads and wore wigs. Said hats come in a wide variety of shapes, but generally with an upturned brim, were often heavily decorated, and sometimes decidedly bizarre.<br />
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguBdOlkuv-uMev_Dpx8WX64sr-pnugfwaPDiQ6FoIl4FYha2awJ0Pps7hOLrvz6xH2RlmKnJId_ygFHwhIIi7eJU_bigWV8f6ksxvmavPVemivKwj-wi68MzHgD1bZ2BHWR3hD7aRY2yA/s1600/ssmoking+cap+1860.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="500" data-original-width="405" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguBdOlkuv-uMev_Dpx8WX64sr-pnugfwaPDiQ6FoIl4FYha2awJ0Pps7hOLrvz6xH2RlmKnJId_ygFHwhIIi7eJU_bigWV8f6ksxvmavPVemivKwj-wi68MzHgD1bZ2BHWR3hD7aRY2yA/s320/ssmoking+cap+1860.jpg" width="259" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.rijksmuseum.nl/nl/collectie/BK-1997-18" target="_blank">1860s Rijksmuseum.</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Along with the later period smoking jackets, smoking caps would also be worn. Often, these would be embroidered and made at home, with patterns being published in magazines.<br />
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<br />
<br />
When you re-enact pre-Elizabethan times, finding examples is somewhat trickier and requires more thinking, since clothing tended to be clothing, leaving aside class distinctions. Two of the first things which have been mentioned are socks and aprons. Aprons especially are ubiquitous throughout history, and have been pointed out as being something comforting and usually informal--I would say to stay away from clearly ornamental examples, though!<br />
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaWVBKFZxaNFOryvLYnzMbkwt9OLkOnNFdx3H1v3INJtH7K7fOEcUurRzbXlTJUcXaL07h67apeIU55_1JKUTxksEHmqHQG4YbGHbBLinBjeu_wcB9w0-nntmctH0FYO5_gTFucfeAlbo/s1600/making+white+cheese+%2528fol.+60%2529%252C+Tacuinum+Sanitatis+%2528BNF+Latin+9333%2529%252C+15th+century.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="627" data-original-width="600" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaWVBKFZxaNFOryvLYnzMbkwt9OLkOnNFdx3H1v3INJtH7K7fOEcUurRzbXlTJUcXaL07h67apeIU55_1JKUTxksEHmqHQG4YbGHbBLinBjeu_wcB9w0-nntmctH0FYO5_gTFucfeAlbo/s320/making+white+cheese+%2528fol.+60%2529%252C+Tacuinum+Sanitatis+%2528BNF+Latin+9333%2529%252C+15th+century.jpg" width="306" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.moleiro.com/es/medicina/tacuinum-sanitatis/miniatura/878" target="_blank">Tacuinum Sanitati</a><span style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="https://www.moleiro.com/es/medicina/tacuinum-sanitatis/miniatura/878" target="_blank">s f. 60r. </a></span> </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Both male and female examples of aprons, in one image! Remember that the Larsdatter site is an excellent resource--<a href="http://larsdatter.com/aprons.htm" target="_blank">here is the link</a> to Medieval and Renaissance aprons.<br />
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Other suggestions which were made for earlier period--other than shift/chemises, and other underwear--are things like naalbound footwear, nightcap type garments, or even an outfit without that last piece which is required for public wear. Maternity clothing--if you can find examples of it--could definitely be considered comfortable, less formal option compared to the often closely fitted late period clothing.<br />
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Although....You aren't required to make clothing! Bedding is a perfectly reasonable option too for /this/ challenge!<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPZfFORBlk6gnW7tpQ02FK93TTqxbFhcANH_VQni9m2hlxieqA7mtJIwKPsn3SY6rsJa8HorhRcJhFJlxGSH3LGBTolJTUHH9R0IPLEj7GLAU0tnKk7300aKR7NonGcVWdkKxHGx6nn5I/s1600/26195346_1762035997160895_2778335888141586414_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="825" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPZfFORBlk6gnW7tpQ02FK93TTqxbFhcANH_VQni9m2hlxieqA7mtJIwKPsn3SY6rsJa8HorhRcJhFJlxGSH3LGBTolJTUHH9R0IPLEj7GLAU0tnKk7300aKR7NonGcVWdkKxHGx6nn5I/s320/26195346_1762035997160895_2778335888141586414_n.jpg" width="275" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">No accession number or direct link is available.<br />
Yes, I asked them.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The above example is believed to be from the 1830s and resides in the Daughters of the American Revolution (DAR) Museum. It is made of a twill woven wool, and embroidered in indigo-dyed wool thread.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmKeLJfifQ7hUYL7nyDPrBfa4koKDkSYZ8iJOcba4t9Df8UnNZJk_VRxaIiUzeKb5fxrkQuFqkYFS7YaJlhzsdMqlyCHPcv_ejl06FfqvLJs3qZ13l_MuXEU8qLDJlLgZ5oNEhCOTSNG0/s1600/RP-T-1884-A-334.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1211" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmKeLJfifQ7hUYL7nyDPrBfa4koKDkSYZ8iJOcba4t9Df8UnNZJk_VRxaIiUzeKb5fxrkQuFqkYFS7YaJlhzsdMqlyCHPcv_ejl06FfqvLJs3qZ13l_MuXEU8qLDJlLgZ5oNEhCOTSNG0/s320/RP-T-1884-A-334.jpg" width="242" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><h1 class="h3-like">
<a href="https://www.rijksmuseum.nl/en/collection/RP-T-1884-A-334" target="_blank"><span style="font-size: x-small;"> Portret van een theoloog, Hendrick Goltzius, 1585 - 1590 </span></a></h1>
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
And a fun and cozy looking piece from the late 16th century...A <i>Schlaf Rock</i>, which is described as a warm, fur lined gown for relaxing around the house [<u>Drei schnittbucher, Pp. 91]</u>. It has both slit sleeves, as well as fitchettes to warm your hands in. I seriously want one, personally.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPyu-292fZ5KdczPYuChLQzrG-C6-4pilDNJ0O4WVR8BmUQhiRinagn-JTuMAeVIcTsbqK1jR_fSCF-lNnNuTocWi2fbxcARqY8f4nbxn_FQFXntSCRfUIUHDP2obcuOrUcE4cnnsfgU4/s1600/IMG_20180111_152608.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPyu-292fZ5KdczPYuChLQzrG-C6-4pilDNJ0O4WVR8BmUQhiRinagn-JTuMAeVIcTsbqK1jR_fSCF-lNnNuTocWi2fbxcARqY8f4nbxn_FQFXntSCRfUIUHDP2obcuOrUcE4cnnsfgU4/s320/IMG_20180111_152608.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Page 12 of Patterns of Fashion 4, by Janet Arnold</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Nightcaps are always a possibility as well. This example dates to 1610, and the partly embroidered one to 1600. Both are made of linen, with no mention made of what the embroidery thread is, although silk is a distinct possibility<br />
<br />
For the medieval periods, bedroom scenes and bedding may be one of your easiest to find sources and options. While the HSM is focused on clothing and accessories, we decided to open it up to include other /sewn/ items for this ONE challenge, primarily for the earlier period folks.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjabaooeUCXdzlbuocSxal5cLKB8bIQJaEfG7n9owV5OpWPzLEV_lUq78iwp9FE_rjWUiZzVNgwN8DdFcaR1-0A0fKxyqcCxVKLJUtgay4Uy107jSQ_Xrvm9LS56RNLZKZo4UOwV3tW5as/s1600/8.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="320" data-original-width="160" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjabaooeUCXdzlbuocSxal5cLKB8bIQJaEfG7n9owV5OpWPzLEV_lUq78iwp9FE_rjWUiZzVNgwN8DdFcaR1-0A0fKxyqcCxVKLJUtgay4Uy107jSQ_Xrvm9LS56RNLZKZo4UOwV3tW5as/s1600/8.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: xx-small;">Friedrich von Schwaben, origin: Stuttgart(?), Universitätsbibliothek Heidelberg, Cod. Pal. Germ. 345, f 247r, c. 1470</span></div>
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
In the above piece, you can see several different examples of potential entries. A green coverlet, probably lined in white (rather than two separate covers being shown), undergarments being worn in the privacy of the home--a definite option, even if not specifically clothing for comfort--and a big, fluffy pillow. Interestingly, big fluffy pillows in a white/blue plaid or windowpane plaid show up quite often in illuminations of bedrooms--it surprised me. <span style="color: #fce5cd;"><span style="color: #f9cb9c;"> No, you may not submit a crown for the challenge, even if she /is/ wearing it in bed.</span></span><br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-j6zDVtsCTJwVqkTTaB6oJjlNGk_T6ykfHwOq11z7RrsNh8JSYyn55srb9D1PVcpenEuvxhIyYKquelI6_BMWazvW1lcsBIdTCkDFYj_X5Fm3mKRBzxPCRGLatp0AtUk8YlT6G3nHoYY/s1600/VictorianCollections-medium.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="350" data-original-width="466" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-j6zDVtsCTJwVqkTTaB6oJjlNGk_T6ykfHwOq11z7RrsNh8JSYyn55srb9D1PVcpenEuvxhIyYKquelI6_BMWazvW1lcsBIdTCkDFYj_X5Fm3mKRBzxPCRGLatp0AtUk8YlT6G3nHoYY/s320/VictorianCollections-medium.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://victoriancollections.net.au/items/4f72aa5b97f83e030860351d" target="_blank">1930s Victorian Collections. </a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
If you don't have much time or materials...how about a tea cozy? Small, and can be made with scraps of fabric as a quilted piece. Crazy quilted or beaded examples are also not uncommon.<br />
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<br />
So, you now have a number of examples and ideas (with even more below) of informal clothing for comfort throughout the periods, as well as other options if your time period is making it difficult. As always, if you aren't sure if your idea will work for the challenge, contact one of the group moderators...we will discuss it and get back with you. Now go forth and sew!<br />
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<br />
<br />
Some further resources:<br />
<a href="https://www.pinterest.com/branmacfinnchad/hsm-comfort-at-home/">The Comfort At Home Pinterest Board </a><br />
<a href="https://www.pinterest.com/branmacfinnchad/house-robes-and-lounge-hats/">House Robes and Lounge Hats (banyans and such), Pinterest board</a><br />
<a href="https://historicalsewing.com/victorian-dressing-gowns-tea-gowns-overview">Victorian Dressing Gowns and Tea Gowns by Historical Sewing</a><br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">©
John Frey, 2018. The Author of this work retains full copyright for this
material. Permission is granted to make and distribute verbatim copies of this
document for non-commercial private research or educational purposes provided
the copyright notice and this permission notice are preserved on all copies.</span></span></div>
Brann mac Finnchadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04614813862245766203noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2468874881802139741.post-2465169698353777002018-01-04T16:59:00.002-09:002018-01-04T16:59:33.883-09:00What...happened? 2017 Review, and 2018 Goals2017 was not a good sewing year for me, and I need to figure out why.<br /><br />Let's go through the projects I started (or continued from a previous year), shall we? Maybe I will feel better, since it feels like I barely finished anything...to the point of someone on the HSM FB group asking to share the project you are the most proud of from last year, and my mind was coming up blank. <br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh65-6GQ6h0-pacPjV_Wly0LP6gnp8s2IPK3jdHgCrRUzf9QIVKvG7n46uPz5a1bvJlagLSutd3hhTRpDlgSa8qGn85gwQ4Xb4k-BMYhXan3yayPe4o20JGAvC1h_UBhHGRtIrJAHH-284/s1600/20182401_1600366423316585_725849978_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh65-6GQ6h0-pacPjV_Wly0LP6gnp8s2IPK3jdHgCrRUzf9QIVKvG7n46uPz5a1bvJlagLSutd3hhTRpDlgSa8qGn85gwQ4Xb4k-BMYhXan3yayPe4o20JGAvC1h_UBhHGRtIrJAHH-284/s320/20182401_1600366423316585_725849978_o.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">It was suggested I should be proud of this outfit<br /><a href="http://matsukazesewing.blogspot.com/2017/07/the-nauseatingly-stripy-trunkhose.html" target="_blank">....I'm not so sure.</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<a name='more'></a><br />
Green projects are completed, Yellow is being actively, if slowly worked on; Orange is semi-shelved as a lower priority; and Red is essentially boxed up and put away.<br />
<br />
<ol>
<li><span style="background-color: #93c47d;"><u><i><b>January</b></i></u>: 14th century Undershirt, started shortly before the year (Completed)</span></li>
<li><span style="background-color: #93c47d;"><a href="http://matsukazesewing.blogspot.com/2017/03/fly-by-night-airship-jacket-putting-it.html" target="_blank">Airship Jacket</a>, an UFO about half done (Completed</span></li>
<li><span style="background-color: #93c47d;"><a href="http://matsukazesewing.blogspot.com/2017/01/the-final-piecethe-tall-hat.html" target="_blank">Tall Hat</a> for the <a href="http://matsukazesewing.blogspot.com/2017/01/1570s-brunswick-man-overview.html" target="_blank">Brunswick suit </a>(Completed</span></li>
<li><span style="background-color: #93c47d;"><u><i><b>February</b></i></u>: Work shirt in silk noil (completed</span></li>
<li><span style="background-color: #ffd966;">Patchwork Paletot. Major project (Still being worked on</span></li>
<li>Gloves--just test drafts</li>
<li><span style="background-color: #93c47d;"><u><i><b>March</b></i></u>: <a href="http://matsukazesewing.blogspot.com/2017/06/whose-sleives-hang-trailing-down-almost.html" target="_blank">16th century Leine</a> (Completed</span></li>
<li><span style="background-color: #e06666;"><u><i><b>April</b></i></u>: Dirk Sheath</span></li>
<li><span style="background-color: #93c47d;">Green linen waistcoat (Completed)</span></li>
<li><span style="background-color: #93c47d;"><i><u><b>May</b></u></i>: <a href="http://matsukazesewing.blogspot.com/2017/07/stolen-dwarven-vest.html" target="_blank">Inar </a>(Competed)</span></li>
<li><span style="background-color: #e06666;"><a href="http://matsukazesewing.blogspot.com/2017/03/plotting-next-major-projectanother.html" target="_blank">Hasting's Suit Trunkhose</a>, Major Project (More on this</span></li>
<li><span style="background-color: #93c47d;">Green Silk Waistcoat, troublesome (Competed)</span></li>
<li><span style="background-color: #93c47d;"><u><i><b>June</b></i></u>: 16th Century Shirt. Major project (completed)</span></li>
<li><span style="background-color: #f6b26b;">Caligae, patterned. I cut out a couple months later (Unfinished</span></li>
<li><span style="background-color: #93c47d;"><a href="http://matsukazesewing.blogspot.com/2017/07/the-nauseatingly-stripy-trunkhose.html" target="_blank">Striped Trunkhose of DOOM</a>. Moderate (Completed)</span></li>
<li><span style="background-color: #f6b26b;"><u><i><b>July</b></i></u>: "Kidney" belt pouch. Moderate (Unfinished</span></li>
<li><span style="background-color: #ffd966;"><u><i><b>October</b></i></u>: Gestalt Rock. Mid to major. (Being worked on</span></li>
<li><span style="background-color: #93c47d;">Plaid Shawl Collar Waistcoat. (Completed</span></li>
<li><span style="background-color: #93c47d;">Silk Noil Work Shirt (Completed)</span></li>
<li><span style="background-color: #e06666;">Carmagnole (didn't get past drafting)</span></li>
<li><span style="background-color: #ffd966;"><u><i><b>November</b></i></u>: Wool "Ravenpuff" Scarf (Being worked on</span></li>
<li><span style="background-color: #ffd966;"><u><i><b>December</b></i></u>: Oxford Cotton Work Shirt (unfinished</span></li>
</ol>
<br />
So, looking at this, I started 22 different projects, slightly over half (12) of them were completed. Seven of those, however, were in the first few months of the year...before I started working on the Hasting's suit. Still, I did complete more than I thought. Back to the Hasting's suit; this was a SERIOUSLY major project--the biggest I have ever undertaken, and I had issues from the very beginning, since I wanted to dye it (which didn't work). It was July when I finally started truly working on the project, and at that point you can see I both started finished a /lot/ fewer projects--only the one waistcoat, really--I started the work shirt earlier in the year and wore it for a while before actually adding the buttons and buttonholes.<br />
<br />
Why did it kick my butt so badly? Quite a bit of it was--bluntly--fear. I have a lot of money in materials in that project--many yards of several different silks, plus linens and fustians--and I am terrified it won't turn out. The actual sewing--since I wanted to do it by hand as my Masterpiece--is lengthy and repetitive. The project itself takes up a lot of room at several points, and while I can lay it out at my day job (but not during store hours), I was tending to be too tired to mess with it after work, especially after picking up to full time in October. There is also the factor that--while the finished suit will probably be magnificent--I tend to much prefer plain clothing, and because of that, the finished suit will not likely be drug out and worn often. Which means my brain was telling me subconsciously--especially after the possibility of finishing it for my elevation passed--that this is wasting my time.<br />
<br />
Something else you may note is that most of the completed projects were also fairly small in size, and didn't take up much room. This is because I do not have much room... I can cut fabric out at my work, but as said earlier, when I clock off I usually just want to get home and read until bed--so anything which required space I found it easy to procrastinate about..<br />
<br />
The dirk sheath got shelved because I needed a new leather awl and needles, but that is the only reason--it's low priority, so I just haven't gotten around to working on it again. <br />
<br />
In the case of the 14th century kidney pouch it is all but done...except for dyeing and final assembly. I decided I wanted to do a period iron-oxide dye for it, got the research done, and have just not gotten around to doing some swatch tests with various methods, namely; tannic solution, pure iron oxide in acid, applied in steps as is the most documentable; a blend of iron oxide and tannins in acid; and combinations thereof with the acid neutralized which is less period).<br /><br />Now, to be a bit more positive. I did finish a--somewhat--acceptable number of projects, tried and learned a number of new things. I am particularly proud of having drafted a shawl collar successfully, and handsewing several projects, which included the 16th century silkworked shirt. I made my first pair of trunkhose--non-period as many aspects of them are--and learned afterwards that cartridge pleating is not a particularly period method. Even so, I like them for how horribly obtrusive they are (except my stockings keep falling down). I also made the outfit I should have made years ago--16th century Irish...and I love it. Comfy, and unlike anything else being worn up here (yet).<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXIyogU5cy1e6Sg7UVomEN4-lBqbxwMbOPo_hmbXv812f1Z_pIu-GkLIkqpYjicCllYByhMHKPMkUF8jpSH_gZUhoL80JEbgTRSxUn5fHvTp_F7XMbN8eDxUn7ruICUONtp4TC355GVkw/s1600/Irish+picks+%25289%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXIyogU5cy1e6Sg7UVomEN4-lBqbxwMbOPo_hmbXv812f1Z_pIu-GkLIkqpYjicCllYByhMHKPMkUF8jpSH_gZUhoL80JEbgTRSxUn5fHvTp_F7XMbN8eDxUn7ruICUONtp4TC355GVkw/s320/Irish+picks+%25289%2529.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The new 16th century Irish that I enjoy wearing<br /><a href="http://matsukazesewing.blogspot.com/2017/06/whose-sleives-hang-trailing-down-almost.html" target="_blank">Leine Documentation</a><br /><a href="http://matsukazesewing.blogspot.com/2017/07/stolen-dwarven-vest.html" target="_blank">Inar Documentation</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
So...some goals and major projects for 2018:<br />
<ul>
<li>I want to make a
1760-70s Redingote or Surtout. I have an uber heavy chestnut brown
wool, and more wool for lining. I have it designed... Now I need to
draft out the pattern and check the fit. Deadline: No actual, but I
want to be wearing it soon, as a winter coat.</li>
<li>Gestalt Rock: Deadline, this Winter Coronet. Thankfully, it is patterned, waiting on my finishing cutting, and doesn't require much tailoring work. I am also not handsewing it. </li>
<li>More lower class stuff, rather than fancy. I suspect part of my issue with motivation this year was because my major project was super fancy...and not something I would tend to wear often. I want some unique, period clothing I am not afraid to work, fight, or drink in.</li>
<li>Early 15th Century outfit with grande assiette sleeves. Need...everything major. Shoes, hose, and cotte. Deadline: Summer Coronet. The doublet/cotte fits into the Sleeves challenge.</li>
<ul>
<li>The shoes will also work for the 1370s outfit I'm working on completing, and that is another goal. I have to make the chausses, which I do have the wool set aside for but needs to be washed.<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfhS9fFNTbRZg27vGhAc2jyeZlqn_TZErhabJoFOKxVtqU5_EOdFVyP3ZGZkxyBXTfAzEo-wS_Ss0x4MrN2TC9fapc6E80VBDQ4dcAhyphenhyphenJ98GPxF3N2c_9OPJJMVgrsDED8gdLiDEDxv88/s1600/french+sleeves.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="322" data-original-width="322" height="319" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfhS9fFNTbRZg27vGhAc2jyeZlqn_TZErhabJoFOKxVtqU5_EOdFVyP3ZGZkxyBXTfAzEo-wS_Ss0x4MrN2TC9fapc6E80VBDQ4dcAhyphenhyphenJ98GPxF3N2c_9OPJJMVgrsDED8gdLiDEDxv88/s320/french+sleeves.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><div class="_st _ss _su _sk _5j _sm _sq _no _np _nq _nr">
<div>
<a href="http://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/btv1b84521932/f90.zoom.r=%20Giovanni%20Boccaccio,%20De%20Claris%20mulieribus" target="_blank"><span>Giovanni Boccaccio, De Claris mulieribus, traduction anonyme en français Livre des femmes nobles et renommees Auteur : Giovanni Boccaccio. Auteur du texte Date d'édition : 1403 Contributeur : Maître des Cleres femmes du duc de Berry</span></a></div>
</div>
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</li>
</ul>
<li>"Party Germans" Pluderhose and Doublet in green and black. Hugely exaggerated pluderhose, with pockets to hold wine bottles, and a bottle opener built in somewhere. Designed to hold up to the rigors of combat, be easily washable, and easier to use the privy in at night (no fiddling with tiny points on the codpiece...velcro may be required. Horrors..) I think I would like to have made this by the beginning of Camping season--so by the middle of May. <br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqIWGkH6csj9NAxA4F-zEwGKqCfsWwPO4lxc_bGoj5CB5jfsaJHpPSK6WeiFbQgBAAsWpGBPzCWvI7MtXBvjVfAdezYe4AF894H9TkdUFTTUYmIkJjdC7HLV_nr1TnS9tzsM8d8d1z43M/s1600/pluderhose.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="470" data-original-width="304" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqIWGkH6csj9NAxA4F-zEwGKqCfsWwPO4lxc_bGoj5CB5jfsaJHpPSK6WeiFbQgBAAsWpGBPzCWvI7MtXBvjVfAdezYe4AF894H9TkdUFTTUYmIkJjdC7HLV_nr1TnS9tzsM8d8d1z43M/s320/pluderhose.jpg" width="206" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Something along these lines, maybe... I'm not a huge fan of those sleeves<br />but they seem to go along with the more exaggerated pluderhose.<br /><a href="http://www.britishmuseum.org/research/collection_online/collection_object_details.aspx?objectId=1595859&partId=1&people=107034&peoA=107034-2-60&page=1" target="_blank">3rd Quarter 16th century. German. British museum </a><a href="http://www.britishmuseum.org/research/collection_online/collection_object_details.aspx?objectId=1595859&partId=1&people=107034&peoA=107034-2-60&page=1" target="_blank">#1952,0405.225</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</li>
<li>Project Brueghel: Late 16th century Low Countries outfit. I am still designing, but I think it would be lovely to complete for Winter Coronet.<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhtkKA1IJ9Hzm-x3jJFkpR3Wr6vCEFN8cutjbDwJ9rx3-AvlGLFzOxiap54kvvCNi16CY4X8LicMSEjwfxF658TEWcqMSxQJ1sAuE1VTuF8QQdN2U63k5Q7ay-FRT8Bay0ZeCUWYGTD4U/s1600/Pieter_Bruegel_the_Elder_-_Hunters_in_the_Snow_%2528Winter%2529_-_Google_Art_Project.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="569" data-original-width="800" height="227" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhtkKA1IJ9Hzm-x3jJFkpR3Wr6vCEFN8cutjbDwJ9rx3-AvlGLFzOxiap54kvvCNi16CY4X8LicMSEjwfxF658TEWcqMSxQJ1sAuE1VTuF8QQdN2U63k5Q7ay-FRT8Bay0ZeCUWYGTD4U/s320/Pieter_Bruegel_the_Elder_-_Hunters_in_the_Snow_%2528Winter%2529_-_Google_Art_Project.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">As an example...<br />Hunters in the Snow. Peter Brueghel the Elder. 1560s</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</li>
<li>Some of the less...major...things include making more random waistcoats and work shirts, and a pair or two of front fall trousers--and write a tutorial on the trousers!</li>
<li>Complete more of the Historical Sew Monthly challenges this year. My plans (or ideas, anyways) can be found in<a href="http://matsukazesewing.blogspot.com/2017/12/hsm-2018plots-and-thoughts.html" target="_blank"> the blog post previous to this</a>.</li>
<li>Write more Blog articles...heck, two of the projects I finished last year (both historical shirts) still need documentation finished (i.e, written)!</li>
<li>Infect more people....with enthusiasm for what I do. This is a big one for me--I don't get excited easily, and share it even less. I am doing better with it, at least. </li>
</ul>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoHQrIycQqZhUqZDqVFzBTtte5s1q6re8zXbiQdkh1lRIm5tJtmxK53l4SRGzYmkqt4pmnjbVy3ZUkdpS_NpOUHJfUyCypMgEVQzG0tmI9AQ72YUB8ez0rG3hqrdhYzyqpOK-SWkYC1wo/s1600/26023814_1405597279567708_8663587758724314961_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1268" data-original-width="1080" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoHQrIycQqZhUqZDqVFzBTtte5s1q6re8zXbiQdkh1lRIm5tJtmxK53l4SRGzYmkqt4pmnjbVy3ZUkdpS_NpOUHJfUyCypMgEVQzG0tmI9AQ72YUB8ez0rG3hqrdhYzyqpOK-SWkYC1wo/s320/26023814_1405597279567708_8663587758724314961_o.jpg" width="272" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One Quasi-historical wool waistcoat...with a shawl collar.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Baskerville Old Face", "serif";">©
John Frey, 2018. The Author of this work retains full copyright for this
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Brann mac Finnchadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04614813862245766203noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2468874881802139741.post-10172818678913831712017-12-30T15:51:00.001-09:002018-01-04T17:00:31.492-09:00HSM 2018...plots and thoughtsIt almost didn't happen--but the denizens of the Facebook group prodded us (the Moderators) until the ball got rolling...then it kinda happened by itself, and we just had to organize. And finalize descriptions, which was actually kinda tricky. But we did it, and so there will be another year...and hopefully many more, so long as participants remain excited.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://thedreamstress.com/the-historical-sew-monthly-2018/" target="_blank"><img alt="http://thedreamstress.com/the-historical-sew-monthly-2018/" border="0" data-original-height="470" data-original-width="375" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEix3Lp8PChE6F7on7mlYGdtu866mup6mJrDJONq7rvZigxUosOEMM-HIH1HCeX3cJSzN1U4g1Ev5H92xxTMqNzlW6wPamBIEc3GHx5nGTmLr2d3Yzz3Z40qyucfPHwMgBLL0Y6wPxtqL2E/s320/HSM-2018.jpg" width="255" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
Enough of that... For my few readers who are not familiar with it, the Historical Sew Monthly is a series of sewing challenges or prompts for Historical Costuming, which you have to finish (NOT start) within two months of the deadline. You can participate in many, or only manage a couple! For more information, go to the <a href="http://thedreamstress.com/the-historical-sew-monthly-2018/" target="_blank">Dreamstress' overview/sign up page</a>. <br />
<a name='more'></a>I have been participating (to some degree...only completed every challenge once; last year) for five years now, I think, and helping run it for three. I am hoping to do much better than this year, which...didn't go well on the sewing front. Majorly ambitious projects, with major problems resulting in lack of motivation, as well as working more. The fact I was focusing on my other hobby of brewing also meant less monies for fabric. I will discuss it more in my <a href="http://matsukazesewing.blogspot.com/2018/01/whathappened-2017-review-and-2018-goals.html" target="_blank">year in review post</a>.<br />
<br />
As usual, if I complete a challenge, I will link the post about it here. And this plan is by no means set in stone...this post will get updated occasionally.<br />
<br />
<br />
<h4>
This Year's Challenges:</h4>
<br />
<br />
January: Mend, Reshape, Refashion: Mend or re-shape one of your previously made historical clothing items, or refashion a new one out of something not originally intended as sewing fabric.<br />
<br />
Feb: Under: Make something that goes under the other layers.<br />
<br />
March: Comfort at Home: Make something to wear around the (historical) house.<br />
<br />
April: Buttons and Fastenings: Create an item where the closures are the star of the show.<br />
<br />
May: Specific to a Time [of Day or Year]: Historically, some garments were worn year round, and for a range of events. Others were exclusively for certain times of year, or specific times of day. Make one of the latter.<br />
<br />
June: Rebellion and Counter-Culture: Create an item that pays homage to fashion rebels and clothes that flaunt their place on the fringes of standard sartorial society, or that was signature to a rebelling cause.<br />
<br />
July: Sleeves: There are some amazing examples of historical sleeves styles out there. Put the focus on the arms and shoulders in your creation for this challenge.<br />
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August: Extant Originals: Copy an extant historical garment as closely as possible.<br />
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September: Hands and Feet: Create a fabulous accessory for your hands or feet.<br />
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October: Fabric Manipulation: Take fabric to the next level with any kind of historical embellishment or manipulation: smocking, shirring, embroidering, beading, pinking, ruching, printing, painting, dyeing etc.<br />
<br />
November: Purses and Bags: You’ve got your arms covered in July, your hands in September, now make something amazing to dangle from them.<br />
<br />
December: Neglected Challenge: Was there a challenge this year (or, if you’ve been doing the HSM for a while, in a previous year) you missed? Or didn’t create quite what you’d wanted for? This is your chance to make it up!<br />
<br />
<br />
<h4>
My plans: </h4>
<br />
January: Honestly, I am not sure. This is something which doesn't work for me. I mean, I have historical clothing which requires repairs of course--my porty (<a href="http://matsukazesewing.blogspot.com/p/project-gallery.html" target="_blank">14th century Russian</a>) have a massive hole in the knee. My <a href="http://matsukazesewing.blogspot.com/2017/07/stolen-dwarven-vest.html" target="_blank">inar </a>requires a shoulder seam resewn--the wool thread tears easily, but it's better than patching cloth. My <a href="http://matsukazesewing.blogspot.com/2014/04/huntsmans-frock-coat.html" target="_blank">Huntsman's Frock Coat</a> has a couple issues--missing button, and the vent coming loose. Similar issues are going on with my <a href="http://matsukazesewing.blogspot.com/2016/08/early-front-fall-trouserscode-name.html" target="_blank">front fall trousers</a>, with a couple of missing buttons. Aaand I have two pairs of 16th century shoes which need repairs. However...all these feel like cheap entries, since none of them will take more than a hour or two to repair. Maybe replacing the lacing band on my<a href="http://matsukazesewing.blogspot.com/2016/08/the-next-piece-stripey-doublet-of.html" target="_blank"> Stripy Doublet </a>will do--that will not be a simple fix, and I tore out several eyelets when fighting last June.<br />
<br />
None of my clothing can really be remade, although there is always the standard of using something from the thrift store--I will definitely be keeping an eye out for a long coat to cannibalize and turn into a new Inar, and if I spot one in time, that will work!<br />
<br />
<br />
February: Under...this means undergarments and underpinnings. Oddly, I have a couple of choices, including a corset--I've been talking about making one for years--and even a bum roll. Some research by Elizabethan costuming greats theorize that the method for achieving so much spring in those 16th century trunkhose (without filling them with stuff like tulle) was to wear what is essentially a bumroll. I believe there are some written accounts to back it up.<br />
<br />
<br />
March; Comfort At Home: This is one of the challenges I was most excited about, and volunteered to write the blog post for. For me...I want a new banyan. Either something heavier or lighter than my current one...I haven't decided, and it will depend on what fabric I find. It will require some thinking, and finding the right fabric. Otherwise, I never did make the cap to match my current banyan--something in the style below.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjM2AJv_SMaVmrRaSE6KdHkJsr2hAtQc2DT4MSemXizmtCJOpLTXvb3SkuexUEVHuT89p89wtxYjhsaHhRr7Zfl4ugM27Noz3lXCdruZ7M8Sq-6hK5v8taK_lYFsx8xhRYC4K1qdAgOwmk/s1600/ma-29960-WEB.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="419" data-original-width="560" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjM2AJv_SMaVmrRaSE6KdHkJsr2hAtQc2DT4MSemXizmtCJOpLTXvb3SkuexUEVHuT89p89wtxYjhsaHhRr7Zfl4ugM27Noz3lXCdruZ7M8Sq-6hK5v8taK_lYFsx8xhRYC4K1qdAgOwmk/s320/ma-29960-WEB.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Men's At-Home Cap, 1700-1750. <br />
<a href="https://collections.lacma.org/node/214537" target="_blank">Los Angeles County Museum of Art. Collection #(M.2007.211.826)</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
April involves buttons or other fastenings. Soo many choices, given that men's clothing from 1330s on generally involves buttons as a decorative feature. I figure I have a couple different choices, but I really would like more 14th century clothing, and just picked up some bright blue wool...which there should be just enough of for a cotte for myself...cottehardies, of course, have a rather extreme amount of buttons. If I decide the use that wool for something later in period, like a doublet, the same applies. The other option, of course, is to make buttons ahead for a future planned project...for that matter, I wanted to switch to buttons on my "fighting doublet"--the hook and eyes currently on it are a pain in the butt and don't look good. Actually...that could also work for the January Challenge!<br />
<br />
<br />
May is Specific to a Time (of Day or Year): While I was having some issues thinking of things--other than winter wear--don't some of Brueghel's paintings specify a time of year? They do!--he did a series of 6 called <i>The Months</i>. I had been thinking about using one of them, <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Hunters_in_the_Snow" target="_blank">Hunters in the Snow</a> as part of my resources for the Low Countries outfit. There is also Wine of St. Martin's Day.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZZ1Mz7Dml-fuOwdM5gOrXwtMMCcmPqNz5GEjsdiu3OgqrHJJe816X5GOMREQG88mNt8jR-w_GIc7piA8XKgv5WTr_gckcSEy9NjF6yxDcS8DUyDsDi5RX2im0lpXoKu2BG13rl_Dm6k0/s1600/Pieter_Bruegel_the_Elder_-_Hunters_in_the_Snow_%2528Winter%2529_-_Google_Art_Project.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="569" data-original-width="800" height="227" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZZ1Mz7Dml-fuOwdM5gOrXwtMMCcmPqNz5GEjsdiu3OgqrHJJe816X5GOMREQG88mNt8jR-w_GIc7piA8XKgv5WTr_gckcSEy9NjF6yxDcS8DUyDsDi5RX2im0lpXoKu2BG13rl_Dm6k0/s320/Pieter_Bruegel_the_Elder_-_Hunters_in_the_Snow_%2528Winter%2529_-_Google_Art_Project.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hunters in the Snow. Peter Brueghel the Elder. 1560s</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
June: Rebellion and Counter-culture! Sooo many options! I want to make more Wild Irish outfits, maybe even (start) finish my gold appliqued Inar. I still need to get the gold leaf for it, though... I could also make myself the Carmagnole I have been wanting, which is a short jacket worn by French Revolutionaries.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiu6HDnKTIptRW_SENDMxRtssvfhL6JNQJ46QokKxz4htcDlnIw_Toztf2r26eFm5lrNU4xEf7gIZ4adh9O-WV3Pwyfnks8-56eMqZsHy1cQRuKXQCuaie7q-97sR0B-iSyur4u8HnZKAU/s1600/C.I.39.13.67_F.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="625" data-original-width="441" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiu6HDnKTIptRW_SENDMxRtssvfhL6JNQJ46QokKxz4htcDlnIw_Toztf2r26eFm5lrNU4xEf7gIZ4adh9O-WV3Pwyfnks8-56eMqZsHy1cQRuKXQCuaie7q-97sR0B-iSyur4u8HnZKAU/s320/C.I.39.13.67_F.jpg" width="225" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/91374?rpp=20&pg=35&ft=coat&pos=696" target="_blank">The MET, Accession #C.I.39.13.67</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
July is Sleeves....making something where sleeves are the star of the show. Well...I had a lightbulb moment last night. I think I want to make something along the lines of those early 15th century cottes--the ones with the massive angelwing or bagpipe grande assiette sleeves--I picked up some navy blue wool which has a gorgeous, velvet-like nap on it which would be perfect! Of course...I would also have to make hosen for it as well... <br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimXZdlCoEfeGauKZInJJBw1Q-15fKDfJ8dVIb7kTNybv5gsrfN7zKWrulPZI6mtoYoybQXaiVeteunEpl27fsEr7qBae87KhS9iYSSRFxyqhg8s9C06S1N0apNIPlhhnhdZKEirynlTRE/s1600/french+sleeves.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="322" data-original-width="322" height="319" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimXZdlCoEfeGauKZInJJBw1Q-15fKDfJ8dVIb7kTNybv5gsrfN7zKWrulPZI6mtoYoybQXaiVeteunEpl27fsEr7qBae87KhS9iYSSRFxyqhg8s9C06S1N0apNIPlhhnhdZKEirynlTRE/s320/french+sleeves.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Snipped from <a href="http://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/btv1b84521932/f96.planchecontact" target="_blank"><i>Giovanni Boccaccio,De Claris mulieribus, traduction anonyme en français Livre des femmes nobles et renommees, </i>1403. French National Library. </a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Extant Originals: Again...soo many choices, since this is the kind of thing I love to do. I suspect I may end up making something from the Greenland finds. I really don't know, and will worry about it later, lol.<br />
<br />
<br />
Hands and Feet: Another one which has multiple options for me, since I really need more (period) shoes, as well as working on gloves. Unfortunately, the timing doesn't work all that well, since the article has to be finished after the 1st of August...which means the 14th century shoes I need for Coronet are right out.<br />
<br />
<br />
I think October's Fabric Manipulation is going to be a big one for me. I have been talking about how I want to make a suit for myself, and have the wool for it. For those not aware of it, bespoke suits have a fair amount of fabric manipulation in them, in the form of Ironwork--stretching and shrinking the fabric in certain places in order to shape it. The style I wanted was very much 1910-1920s if I recall--the cut is nice, doesn't have bulky shoulders, and I like the high gorge on those earlier suits--, and I was thinking of using a draft from that period anyways...which means that it would work for HSM. It appears 1910s is a little slimmer in cut and a touch more natural shoulder than the '20s. Something double breasted, anyways.<br />
<br />
Otherwise...pretty much any upper class 16th century clothing has fabric manipulation as well.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQSyyrmCkyukJZ-kZhNn1tkx9ZQHBFPXvWRNz8q1B0aWTshawf17R8GPuNSVKnKrmt2QHkz9AigWeEgPC9a_9Q_2k7Xr3GTSzkygNOMGnKbtduKD0zA5qRJu3_z_tO4uadoC2FqCiBdSU/s1600/1920s+suit.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="480" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQSyyrmCkyukJZ-kZhNn1tkx9ZQHBFPXvWRNz8q1B0aWTshawf17R8GPuNSVKnKrmt2QHkz9AigWeEgPC9a_9Q_2k7Xr3GTSzkygNOMGnKbtduKD0zA5qRJu3_z_tO4uadoC2FqCiBdSU/s320/1920s+suit.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Like that Double Breasted One!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Purses and Bags: A bag or belt purse for the Low Countries outfit.<br />
<br />
<br />
Neglected: This one I will just throw to the winds and see where I go. I have the choice of any challenge since I found the HSM...that is quite a few!<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "baskerville old face" , "serif";">©
John Frey, 2017. The Author of this work retains full copyright for this
material. Permission is granted to make and distribute verbatim copies of this
document for non-commercial private research or educational purposes provided
the copyright notice and this permission notice are preserved on all copies.</span></span></div>
Brann mac Finnchadhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04614813862245766203noreply@blogger.com2