Historical Sew Monthly, January: Foundations

Being worn without an outer layer--I was rather cold...

For the first entry this year, I have a simple undertunic.  Those who know me, know that I tend to play in early medieval Northern Europe, so this was a much needed addition to my wardrobe (all my old undertunics died.  Horribly).  I threw it together a few days before an event, once I remembered that I would need a new one, and did the hand finishing (sewing down the yoke and cuffs) in the car on the way to the event, as well as late that night while partying.

The pattern is simple—two body pieces seamed at the shoulders (it would have been one long one, but I wanted the stripes running lengthwise on the garment), two sets of gores, and two trapezoidal sleeves.  The gores were made approximately as wide and long as I could.  I may stitch rip, then inset gussets in the underarm at some point in the future.

Phrygian Cap Documentation

Phrygian Cap

Being an entry into the Viking Stitchery Competition at Summer Coronet, AS 47

A Phrygian cap to match my new ionar, in green/black herringbone wool, lined with green linen.

Goals

This piece, aside from being a clothing accessory, is intended to example several seams and stitches appropriate for Norse clothing.  What it is not intended to be is a period perfect replica of an existing garment.

Pattern

After trying out several possible patterns, I decided upon a simple three piece one, consisting of two sides, and a circular top.  This pattern, I feel, gave me the best combination of utility (as the hat will be actually used for warmth) and drape for the desired profile.

The pattern used.

A pair of Norse Shoes

Completed Shoes.  Not particularly attractive--especially unoccupied--but they should serve.

This particular project was inspired by a terrible need for a pair of early period shoes—something fairly generic, but period (Viking Age) in cut.  While I started by patterning off of the Oseberg 303s—and did keep the basic outline of that pair--, I ended up draping many trials in order to get the fit I desired.  My goal was to make a pair of shoes which met my desired purpose—something which could be worn in winter with heavy socks and would keep the snow out.

Overall, the shoes are based on a slightly simplified Oseberg 303s—a single piece upper with no center seam.  There is a dart in the center back (of the heel), covered by the triangular extension from the heel of the sole.  The heel extension was more commonly found on Anglo-Scandinavian footwear, but also on Oseberg 172[i].