Sunday, November 29, 2015

Featured Garment: 1765 Skinnrock

In this issue of my Featured Garment, we will be examining a fascinating garment--a military skinnrock (which translates as leather coat) from 1765.

Av brunt läder med gul krage och rabatt med vita "knapphål" av redgarn. Fickorna är fasonerade med stående "knapphål" Gula uppslag. Över klocksprundet bak ett vitt redgarnsband.

En jämförelse med Jacob Gillbergs uniformsritningar av uniform m/1765 visar att den har samma dekorerade bröstrevärer och knapphål som Livgardet till fots rockar. Detta bör då vara en rock m/1765 för Livgardet till fot, men utförd i skinn istället för kläde. Möjligtvis rör det sig om någon form av rock för vakttjänst. 2010-05-17 MM.

Wednesday, November 25, 2015

Franken-frock, Part Three: What has it got in it's pocketses?

Part One was the shell and patterning, Part Two was about putting it together (at least up to the halfbody) and tailoring.
Part three, on the other hand, will be the pockets and hopefully finish work--unfortunately I didn't take nearly as many photos as I should have at that point.

And for the fun part, pockets.  I actually enjoy making them, in a mildly masochistic way--especially jetted pockets. 

Sunday, November 22, 2015

Featured Garment(s): Two 15th Century Pilgrims

The chosen garments this week are those of the two Pilgrims on Folio 102r, in Le Livre des faiz monseigneur St. Loys.  The manuscript is about St. Loius--and importantly, his family--, and includes actual historical items, and accounts of miracles and such.  It was commissioned by the Cardinal Charles de Bourbon for one of his sisters-in-law (we do not know which one).  The current dating--exact date is unknown--of the manuscript is assumed to be the late 1470s, very beginning of the 1480s, based on the clothing and the prologue stating who it would be given to [Hoover.  Pp. 10].  Read the Hoover text for more information. 

 I found this interesting not as much for the clothing, which is fairly standard pilgrims clothing for the period, but for the detail of the accouterments--of the accessories.

Wednesday, November 18, 2015

The Franken-Frock, part II: Garment Construction Begins

It has been months since I last looked at posting about the franken-frock project--therefore, I figure that it is time.
They are slightly out of order, in a way--Part One dealt with the construction of the pattern and shell.  Part Two is the internal structure; Part Three will be pockets and finish work--however, in reality parts were done concurrently; for instance, the breast pocket was completed before sewing the body pieces together.

You can see the layers of canvassing and batting here.  From bottom to top; standard pattern chest canvas, on the straight of grain; second layer of canvas, cut on the bias (this layer is barely visible); Chest and shoulder padding, which follows the second layer of canvas; then a second layer of padding, directly over the chest to accentuate.

Tuesday, November 17, 2015

Featured Garment: Odd Wool Suit, 1900

For this week's garment, it is an odd brown wool suit from around 1900, that was up for auction back in 2006.

It appears to be a long, sac cut coat (and trousers) in a brown wool flannel, with faint blue/brown plaid--rather a pretty fabric, I think.  The trousers are fairly typical, as near as I can tell.

All the auction house has to say about it is the following:
2-piece, the wool having faint blue & brown pattern, fitted jacket w/ silk braid trim, Ch 40", Jacket L 33", Slv L 24.5", Pant W 31", Inseam 31", excellent.

Monday, November 16, 2015

Featured Garment: 1820s American Surtout

I decided--inspired by the Dreamstress, if you are familiar with her blog (if not, it's on the sidebar the right of your screen)--to start doing a weekly "Featured Garment".  For the most part, these are likely to be a piece of men's clothing that catches my eye--whatever period it may be.

For the first one, there is a fascinating wool early surtout--a frock coat--from America, that is up for auction.
The Auction house has this to say:
Beige wool broadcloth, fitted through chest, tan velvet collar & turn back cuffs, diagonal double row of brown thread buttons, side & F waist seam, double pleats to wide back skirt, CH 40", L 39", (1 tiny hole, velvet knap worn & torn, sleeves enlarged w/ inset beige wool gusset) very good. James Kochan - Don Troiani Collections
The piece caught my eye because of the low pockets--to start with.  Other things that caught my eye are the extra long cuffs, lined with the same velvet as the collar, and made to be turned back--also note the position of the three buttons on the cuffs.