Monday, May 5, 2014

Norlund 78, or D10606 Hood: part 2...Mockup

Warning: Contains far too many numbers.  Continued from Part One

With the rough pattern figured  out, it was time to draft out the full scale mockup.  I decided that the best way to do so was to start with a straight base line, to the left of what would become the pattern, measure to the right from that, and essentially connect the dots.

Edited to add, at 11:33 5-5-14

The process was to draw a straight line, 405.9mm long (the height of the hood, plus the extra little bit for the "horn"). 
320mm from the top, I made a mark 15mm from the line--this is the chin, where it slanted in slightly.  Another 95mm in, beyond the chin, another mark was made, and the two points get connected (as does the front opening of the hood).
Going back to your baseline, at the bottom I marked in by 45mm, and connected slantwise to the mark above.

The Bottom hem can now be drawn--remember that it is 360mm + the 16mm for the gore seam allowances.
You can now measure 270mm from the under-chin 'V' to where the back seam was.  This was the one measurement which I had to adjust--the original 240mm did not allow me to fit my head through.  Make the mark about 20mm above where you measured to.
For the top, measure down 5.9mm to find the line, then make marks 100mm, 404mm, and 444mm from your baseline.  Draw a smooth curve down from the top of your front line to the 100mm mark, then continue straight on to the 444mm mark. 
Measure down 18mm from the 404mm mark, and connect to the 444mm point (diagonally).  This is the "mini-liripipe" which the full liripipe is connected to.
Draw a smooth curve connecting the points along the back.
As for the gore, it was 190mm from the front edge at the bottom, and slants forward to 120mm at the top, which is even with the bottom of the face opening.
The gore is a simple, curve bottomed, triangle that is 109.5mm across the bottom, and 101mm tall.

Cut out, with a 8mm seam allowance at all edges.
Yes, I had to piece my material.

© John Frey, 2014. The Author of this work retains full copyright for this material. Permission is granted to make and distribute verbatim copies of this document for non-commercial private research or educational purposes provided the copyright notice and this permission notice are preserved on all copies.  Photographs of my work may not be duplicated.


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