Wednesday, June 11, 2014

The (A) Road to Madness: Take the exit marked...Pluderhosen?

Over the last two days I managed to fully assembled the Sture doublet, with two major differences off of the original: It untrimmed (for now.  Strips of silk will eventually be applied), and I left off the shoulder wings because I quite honestly do not like the things--I don't like drafting them, I don't like wearing them, and they add a fair amount of thickness to the seam (at least with these fabrics)
There were a few issues in the making up, with ease (which was remedied once I got the bright idea to measure off of my existing doublet), mainly.  These were summarily overcome, and all that is left is the hook and eyes (and someday trimming)

But that is not what this post is on.  This particular post is on the Sture Pluderhosen, a maddening pair
of baggy, yet fitted, pants.  Each leg consists of two side panels (nice and simple), the front panel with the rise, a somewhat "cheeky" back panel, the codpiece (or half of it...), and an...erm...crack piece in the center back.  The last two pieces are cut on the bias.  There is also the relatively rectangular lining, which gets pleated to create the puffs between panes.

Image Traced from PoF 3  in order to mark measurements.

The issues for me mainly center around how the center back and back pieces join.  Early this morning--after spending much of the night refreshing my memory, then prepping and lining each panel (which I did by sewing the shell/lining right sides together and turning)--, I found that I had gone about it wrong...waaay back in the drafting, two years ago.  The notch under the seat of the pants is not an obnoxious insertion point for the center back piece, but rather is a horizontal dart (which may be elementary for some of you, but I did not even think about it.  Until I looked at the pattern slightly differently last night).  This does, at least, make the pluderhosen a bit simpler in construction.

HOWEVER, I naturally discovered this after I began the real construction; thus adding to the frustrations I experienced while drafting the pattern originally (I believe the toile went airborne a number of times...).  What to do?

I can--and likely will--stitch-rip what I have so far, but I did not construct that notch as a dart.  It is a bit too wide.  I do not believe I have nearly enough of the lining material to cut new pieces (there should be enough of the velvet left, although I was really hoping to make other things with it), although piecing could be an option, I suppose.

Once I get the pattern figured out--again--I will do a pictorial post showing how they go together.  Maybe.

Off to play with the toile and Make It Sew*.

Janet Arnold.  Patterns of Fashion 3.  Page 58.

* Sorry^, was watching The Next Generation all night.
^ Not really...

© John Frey, 2014. The Author of this work retains full copyright for this material. Permission is granted to make and distribute verbatim copies of this document for non-commercial private research or educational purposes provided the copyright notice and this permission notice are preserved on all copies. 

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