This piece is based on one found in Herjolfnes,
as part of the Viking settlement from the 14th century. It is a knee length, loose, coat like garment
with set in armscyles and a short collar.
The main body is made of eight trapezoidal pieces, four in front and four in the back, with a front buttoned down to the waist (conjecture). The original garment had buttons about every ½ inch, and probably 30-40 originally. The sleeves were made of four pieces, consisting of a funky shaped upper arm with a gusset in the back, and a lower sleeve with an elbow gusset; the sleeves are only about arm length (not much, if any extra length) with a deeply curved armscyle.
Seams, decoration, and fabric:
The back seam is 1.08% longer than the front seam and seems to have been decorated with a backstitch. The seams also lay towards the back. The garment is constructed in such a way that each of the eight pieces has a straight and a bias edge, and all of the seams are constructed with straight-to-bias, limiting stretch. It also seems to have been decorated and re-enforced along all the seams with stab stitching.
The fabric used in the original was a 2/2 wool twill, originally very dark brown. The garment is believed to have been trimmed around the neck and down the front opening (on the left side with the buttonholes) with a thin material woven in 2/1 twill, originally madder colored. There are also traces of tablet woven edging on a piece believed to have been the bottom hem. The thread used for the stitching was likely finely spun wool or goat hair.
My goals in making this garment are to make a working garment based on the original, as close to the original in patterning as possible (while still making a garment that fits me and my sense of aesthetics) and learn about seam and finishing techniques of the period.