Sunday, November 29, 2015

Featured Garment: 1765 Skinnrock

In this issue of my Featured Garment, we will be examining a fascinating garment--a military skinnrock (which translates as leather coat) from 1765.

Av brunt läder med gul krage och rabatt med vita "knapphål" av redgarn. Fickorna är fasonerade med stående "knapphål" Gula uppslag. Över klocksprundet bak ett vitt redgarnsband.

En jämförelse med Jacob Gillbergs uniformsritningar av uniform m/1765 visar att den har samma dekorerade bröstrevärer och knapphål som Livgardet till fots rockar. Detta bör då vara en rock m/1765 för Livgardet till fot, men utförd i skinn istället för kläde. Möjligtvis rör det sig om någon form av rock för vakttjänst. 2010-05-17 MM.

Translated by google:
Of brown leather with yellow collar and borders of the white "buttonhole" of worsted. The pockets are shaped a total of standing "buttonhole" Yellow spreads. Over klocksprundet behind a white redgarnsband.

A comparison with Jacob Gillberg's uniform drawings of uniform m / 1765 shows that it has the same decorated breast stripes and buttonhole Life Guards on foot coats. This should then be a rock m / 1765 for the Life Guards on foot, but made of leather instead of cloth. Possibly these are on some kind of rock for guard duty. 2010-05-17 MM.
What this is, is essentially the primary garment for the era--the Justaucorps, or frock coat--but in leather.

While the shell is some variety of leather, the lining and spreads are in a buff, heavily fulled wool.  Chamois leather was my first thought, however the wool version of the uniform appears to have the same lining material (I eventually found the translation for the word redgarn, which means something like "worsted").  The cut is not actually that unusual for the garment type--single piece back, front which I assume would not close, close fitting sleeves, and the important part--pleated side vents.  The skirt is rather small compared to the cloth versions--however, that doesn't surprise me, given the stiffness and cost of leather.  I actually find it rather fascinating that this piece was made with as few pieces of leather as it was.

The front decorations are made of the same buff material as the lining, with strips of white canvas or wool laid at the (non-functional) buttonholes (likewise for the epaulets).  Sadly, I cannot tell if the pockets are functional or not.  The buttons are of plain brass.

As you can see, all edges have been gone over with a prick stitch--a fine running stitch in order to secure the two layers together.

My (extremely) rough sketch of the shape of the body pieces.  I believe, based on the fullness, and visible exterior seams, that there is a gore set into the back "vent" which is not visible in the lining.  The front side pieces probably flared more, as well as the front width being slightly too narrow for scale (since the each front piece covers approximately 3/5-2/3 of the half body measurement).

 Above is the same uniform model as the skinnrock (Rock m/1765), but in wool, and with different regiment decorations.  As you can see, the pleats are fuller, and there is actually a back vent.


© John Frey, 2015. The Author of this work retains full copyright for this material. Permission is granted to make and distribute verbatim copies of this document for non-commercial private research or educational purposes provided the copyright notice and this permission notice are preserved on all copies.  Photographs of my work may not be duplicated.

1 comment:

  1. This is a very interesting coat indeed. I kind of like the style. If I recall right, the Swedish Army used to have skinnrocks made of moose skin...