Tuesday, December 15, 2015

Historical Sew Monthly 2016--An Optimistic Plan

Edited: 3-15-16

Every year I attempt--somewhat--to follow the Historical Sew Monthly (or Fortnightly, when it was every two weeks).  For those who do not know, the Historical Sew Monthly is a sewing challenge.  12 historical sewing projects (cut off is 1938), due on the last day of each month; each has a different theme chosen by the sponsor and popular vote (to some degree), and it is up to you to come up with something--anything--sewing/costuming related that somehow fits in.  This year, there is a particularly nice lineup, which may actually help me get it done--I think there is only one which I'm looking at with no idea.

The main post on the Historical Sew Monthly can be found HERE.  Read it, or else.

One of the goals of the costuming challenge is to get people to think more about historical accuracy--you do not have to be completely accurate (not truly possible, anyways), but it does help.  After the majority of the pieces for a given challenge are in, The Dreamstress picks her favourites.

This is my "Intent to Attempt to Participate" post, where I outline my plan, such as it is--and brainstorm to some degree.  I will try to finish as many as I can, however, life often does interfere (as does lack of motivation).

The Challenges, copied from Dreamstress' article.
  • January –  Procrastination finish a garment you have been putting off finishing (a UFO or PHD) or make something you have been avoiding starting. {Due between Dec 1 and Jan 31}
  • February – Tucks and Pleating – make a garment that features tucks and pleating for the shape or decoration {Jan 1 and Feb 28}
  • March – Protection – make something to protect yourself (from weather or injury) or your clothes (from soiling etc.) {Feb 1 and March 31}
  • April – Gender-Bender – make an item for the opposite gender, or make an item with elements inspired by the fashions of the opposite gender {March 1 and April 30}
  • May – Holes – sometimes the spaces between stuff are what makes a garment special.  Make a garment that is about holes, whether it is lace, slashing, eyelets, etc. {April 1 and May 31}
  • June – Travel – make a garment for travelling, or inspired by travel. {May 1 and June 30}
  • July – Monochrome – make a garment in black, white, or any shade of grey in between. {June 1 and July 31}
  • August – Pattern – make something in pattern, the bolder and wilder the better. {July 1 and August 30}
  • September – Historicism – Make a historical garment that was itself inspired by the fashions of another historical period. {August 1 and Sep 31}
  • October – Heroes – Make a garment inspired by your historical hero, or your historical costuming hero. {Sep 1 and October 31}
  • November – Red – Make something in any shade of red. {Oct 1 and Nov 30}
  • December – Special Occasion: make something for a special event or a specific occasion, or that would have been worn to special event of specific occasion historically. {Nov 1 and Dec 31}

Procrastination: I love this one--it is sew me!  I was planning on entering the Dungiven jacket--a project I have been working on for too long, and planned long ago (and even had the fabric for).  It will be done after the early entry date (for the projects to qualify, they have to be completed within one month of the start of the project's month; i.e. Two months before due date). However, I believe that instead I will enter that into the last one of this year--Re-do, since it is applicable to several of the 2015 challenges.

Instead, for Procrastination, I am looking at the 1853 double breasted waistcoat I have been working on--I've been procrastinating for ages because I don't want to do the pocket welts.  Completed 1-28-16.
A second option is to (finally) make the pleated tall hat to go with my blue velvet Sture Suit. (By Coronet if that project)
Boston Museum of Fine Arts
Tucks and Pleating: Late period.  Mid-1500s.  I haven't decided on quite what yet, bu I have a couple different things planned out, and the pants require cartridge pleats.  The options are either a rendition of the Erik Sture suit...or a 1560s doublet and trunkhose similar to the Don Garcia de Medici suit.
I'm leaning towards the second because....:

Entry was a Elizabethan Pleated tall hat, Finished on 2-16-16.

Protection:  Ta-da!  ...because the doublet I am planning on patterning from is believed to be an arming doublet--it has more padding than normal.  Should be lovely to fence in.  A pair of medieval mittens, new hat, or a medieval hood would also work.
A rendition of the Norlund 78 hood from Herjolfsnes was my entry, and finished 2-28-16.
Patterns of Fashion pp. 70

Gender-bender:  This one is much easier for the ladies participating--women's apparel steals from men's far more than the opposite.  Although I /could/ make .  That being said...I do want a men's corset.  The back support while sewing would be extremely nice...
1820s Men's Stays.  Not this pair, necessarily, but it's an example.
Holes: Err...rather more difficult.  Unrealistically, a eyelet doublet would be nice (assuming it would pass a punch test).  More realistically...I don't know.  I suppose a justaucorps (or waistcoat from the same period) does involve lots of buttonholes...  A buttoning medieval hood (fur lined, square skirted) is another option, that is on my to-do list.

Traveling:  Actually also difficult.  Not because I don't have a predilection towards these types of garments, but because I don't actually need any of them right now.  Options: A canvas coat--similar to the seaman's top coat or shooting frock coat.  Another option would be a medieval hood, from the Herjolfsnes finds. (Finish early for summer wear)
Seaman's Top Coat.
Shooting Frock coat.
Monochrome: Technically, if I do the white canvas coat above it would apply to this one too...  Otherwise, a set of ruffs for the 16th century outfit would work nicely, and be white.  (Finish in time for Summer Coronet-July 15--to premier the 1560s suit)

Patterns: Mmm....plaid.  That's all I have to say.  A pair of the trousers from the Dungiven find wouldn't be a bad idea.  Neither would a waistcoat.  (Dungiven Trousers would need to be done by July 15).
I could also point out that banyans/dressing gowns were also often heavily patterned.  My planned, sheepskin lined, square skirted hood will likely be a plaid (whether documentable or not)

Historicism:  Honestly, I have no idea, and will likely skip this one.

Heroes:  Err....again, a rather difficult one.  I would have to find a historical hero first...

Red:  I'm thinking a cape or jerkin in the red brocade to go with whichever late period suit I make.  I could also use that double breasted waistcoat I'm currently working on, if it isn't done in the next year (it had better be!).

Special Occasion:  ...well, I will need a new cravat, lol.

NOTE: I reserve the right to change my mind about what I want to make at any point, and will update this post as needed.

12-24-15; Added dates and some deadlines.

@ Copyright John Frey, 2015.  Photos in this particular article are not mine.

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