Research Dump: No 9

Well, that was...fun.  I realized it has been over a year since I assembled a research dump--shame on me.  Even so, there aren't a massive quantity of links, since I haven't been doing true research and reading of academic papers for some time.

This collection covers a wide variety, but are mostly clothing and textile of a variety of periods, including Ottoman Turkish, 18th century, and high medieval.


Boarding Axes from the Age of Sails
A page all about boarding axes, and talking about the differences between the models of various countries.
http://www.boardingaxe.com/index.html


Romantic Era Corsets
A piece of documentation discussing some of the options in late Regency corsets.
http://thelacedangel.blogspot.com/2014/01/romantic-era-corsets.html


Eighteenth century men's civilian waistcoats.
Absolutely beautiful thesis going over the style and construction of waistcoats in this period, in extreme detail.
 http://scholarscompass.vcu.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=1781&context=etd


A Closer Look at an 18th-Century Suit
Looking in detail at a fancy 1778 velvet suit.  Some fascinating information here.
https://kentstateuniversitymuseum.wordpress.com/2013/10/25/a-closer-look-at-an-18th-century-suit/


Revealing the Truth About 18th-century Women’s Necklines
 http://makinghistorynow.com/2016/01/musings-from-the-millinery-revealing-the-truth-about-18th-century-womens-necklines/


 Silk and globalisation in eighteenth-century London: commodities, people and connections c.1720-1800
 http://bbktheses.da.ulcc.ac.uk/58/1/cp_Farrell_thesis_silk_2013_v.2.pdf


The Fabric of Life: Linen and Life Cycle in England, 1678-1810
A thesis discussing the import, production, costs, and life-cycle of linen (from spinning to rags). Unfortunately, most images have been removed for copyright reasons.
http://uhra.herts.ac.uk/bitstream/handle/2299/17196/14074801%20Dolan%20Alice%20Claire%20-%20Final%20submission.pdf?sequence=1


Thoughts on the Coats of the Fur Trade By Gene Hickman
Quite interesting, discussing the various coats worn by 18th/19th century woodsmen--frock coats and similar were far more common than the "trade-blanket capote" you see portrayed.
http://www.manuellisaparty.com/articles/pfd's/Coats1.pdf


“kind of armour, being peculiar to America:” The American Hunting Shirt An excellent article on the "buckskinner's" fringed hunting shirt.
 https://www.academia.edu/3336557/_kind_of_armour_being_peculiar_to_America_The_American_Hunting_Shirt


DRESS FOR DEFERENCE AND DISSENT: HATS AND THE DECLINE OF HAT HONOUR
By Penelope J. Corfield
A somewhat interesting article, which starts at just the tail end of SCA period, and focuses on 18th century, it seems.
 http://penelopejcorfield.co.uk/PDF's/CorfieldPdf8_Hats.pdf


Pennsylvania German museum, with a glossary of the German words for various textiles and garments--with links to examples in three different museum catalogues.
 http://www.goschenhoppen.org/collections-catalog.html


The LACMA Costume Pattern project
If you haven't run across this yet, you need to check it out.  They fully measured/patterned a number of assorted garments, and freely shared the results.
http://www.lacma.org/patternproject


The Basics of French Women's Clothing 1400-1440 : Part 1
The first part of a series overviewing the subject.
 http://edythmiller.blogspot.com/2016/01/the-basics-of-french-womens-clothing.html


The Meaning of Renaissance and Medieval Clothing Colors
An article discussing the basic symbolism of clothing in medieval and Renaissance artwork.
 http://renaissanceclothing.blogspot.com/2011/02/meaning-of-renaissance-and-medieval.html


The paper on the Pourpoint of Charles VI, from Tasha Kelly
http://cottesimple.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/Charles-VI-pourpoint-article-Tasha-D-Kelly-reduced-size.pdf


16th Century Thread Wrapped Buttons. 
A lengthy class handout on the subject.
http://www.redcrowcreative.com/TUTR_Class_Handouts/16th%20Century%20Thread%20Wrapped%20Buttons%20-%20Porzia%20di%20Corbino%20Rosso.pdf


Ready-to-Wear Clothing in Germany tn the Sixteenth and Seventeenth Centuries: New Ready-Made Garments, and Second-Hand Clothes Trade ]utta Zander Seidel
 http://archiv.ub.uni-heidelberg.de/artdok/3153/1/Zander_Seidel_Ready_to_wear_clothing_in_Germany_1991.pdf


 A Leather Jerkin Well Examined
A close up look at the youth's pinked leather jerkin.
http://blog.museumoflondon.org.uk/leather-jerkin-well-examined/


Byzantine Belt Ornaments of the 7th and 8th Centuries in Avar Contexts
A paper analyzing the connection between Byzantine and Avar belt ornaments. There are a number of nice sketches of the ornaments.
 http://195.224.71.221/pdf/7%20Daim-opt-sec.pdf


Typology of Fire Strikers From the Viking Age Norway
Tomáš Vlasatý,
 http://sagy.vikingove.cz/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/Norwegian-fire-strikers.pdf


Leather gloves and mittens - examples recovered from the Netherlands.
 http://www.elpenbeen.nl/gloves%20&%20mittens.pdf


 Textile finds from medieval cesspits in Tartu: technology, trade and consumption
 A beautiful thesis, with excellent images of things like buttonholes.
http://hibernaatio.blogspot.fi/2015/12/aarreaitta-tarton-keskiaikaiset.html


VESTMENTS & EMBROIDERIES – MEDIEVAL TEXTILES (I 8) A short discussion on the ecclesiastical textiles of St. Petri.
 https://textilis.net/2016/01/17/vestments-embroideries-medieval-textiles-i-8/


Usage and meaning of early medieval textiles. A structural analysis of vestimentary systems in Francia and Anglo-Saxon England
Abstract:  This thesis puts under examination the linguistic and non-verbal elements of early medieval clothing on the basis of semiotic systems that pertain to the use and function of early medieval textiles in Francia and Anglo-Saxon England. An attempt is made here to address the possibilities in the research of the diverse messaging systems which reflect social roles and identities communicated visually through dress and dress accessories. In the course of this examination the relationship of early medieval people with dress and their concepts about their bodies is explored.
 http://etheses.bham.ac.uk/954/


DYES AND DYEING METHODS IN LATE IRON AGE FINLAND
Krista Vajanto
This dissertation is about Late Iron Age (AD 800–1055/1300) woollen, visually colourful textile fragments.
The aim is to identify the dyeing methods used in Finland during the Late Iron Age and to find the locally used dyestuffs. This dissertation focuses on the archaeological samples from inhumation burials and shipwrecks, which were analysed with visual analysis and microscopy observation. The reference material includes woollen yarns dyed with Finnish traditionally known dye sources.
 https://helda.helsinki.fi/bitstream/handle/10138/159210/dyesandd.pdf?sequence=1


Hanseatic commerce in textiles from the Low Countries and England during the Later Middle Ages: changing trends in textiles, markets, prices, and values, 1290- 1570
https://mpra.ub.uni-muenchen.de/11199/1/MPRA_paper_11199.pdf


Illicit business: accounting for smuggling in mid-sixteenth-century Bristol
 https://www.blackwellpublishing.com/specialarticles/ehr182.pdf


The Archaeology of Post-Medieval Ireland from AD1550: A Select Bibliography
A rather large bibliography of works dealing with the above topic.
http://www.science.ulster.ac.uk/crg/ipmag/IPMAG%20Post-Medieval%20Bibliography.pdf


 The Rise, Expansion, and Decline of the Italian Wool-Based Cloth Industries, 1100–1730: A Study in International Competition, Transaction Costs, and Comparative Advantage
 https://www.economics.utoronto.ca/wwwfiles/archives/munro5/MunroItalianTextilesSMRH9.pdf


  The North Italian Cotton Industry 1200-1800
http://www.lse.ac.uk/economicHistory/Research/GEHN/HELSINKIMazzaoui.pdf


Down to the Last Stitch: Sumptuary Law and Conspicuous Consumption in Renaissance Italy.
http://wesscholar.wesleyan.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=1333&context=etd_hon_theses


An Overview of Men’s Clothing in Northern Italy c. 1420 - 1480
as reconstructed by Master Lorenzo Petrucci
A rather nice overview of the subject, based on artwork of the period.
http://www.houseofpung.net/sca/15c_mens_italian.pdf


Rethinking Mamluk Textiles
With the emergence of Mamluk studies as a distinct area of specialization within
Islamic studies, an evaluation of the current "state-of-the-field" of Mamluk art and
architecture is required. Although textiles are included in most discussions of
Mamluk art, a full-length review of the literature, goals, and methods of this fieldhas not yet appeared.
http://mamluk.uchicago.edu/MSR_IV_2000-Walker.pdf




The Coverings of an Empire: An Examination of Ottoman Headgear from 1500 to 1829
 http://cupola.gettysburg.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=1182&context=student_scholarship


The Market for Domestic and Imported Textiles in Sixteenth Century Istanbul
http://digitalcommons.unl.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=1616&context=tsaconf




A Persian Epic, Perhaps for the Ottoman Sultan
THE METROPOLITAN MUSEUM OF ART owns a double-folio battle representation from a dispersed copy of the Shdhndma of Firdausi dated A.D. 1562-83/A.H. 970-91 (Figures 1, 2). Although the scene illustrates the Persian "Book of Kings," scholars who have studied the folios consider them to be Ottoman.' This essay will attempt
to demonstrate the close relationship of these folios to a group of Safavid Shirazi manuscripts, although they may well have been illustrated with an Ottoman patron in mind.
http://www.metmuseum.org/…/j…/1/pdf/1512959.pdf.bannered.pdf



 Ottoman Turkish Garb
An Overview of Women’s Clothing
http://www.katjaorlova.com/FemaleTurkishGarb.pdf


Experimental Approaches to Ancient Near eastern archery.
A paper discussing, in brief, archery in Ancient Egypt.
http://simsdream.free.fr/partage/documents/Experimental%20Approaches%20to%20Ancient%20near%20Eastern%20Archery%20-%20R.%20Miller,%20E.%20McEwen,%20C.%20Bergman%20-%201986.pdf


The Eastern Contribution to Medieval Russian Culture
Discussing the trade connections between the east (Mongolia, and the middle east particularly). Includes hints on ceramics, some jewelry (mostly religious), and architectural decorations.
http://archnet.org/system/publications/contents/4861/original/DPC1574.pdf


The Horse in Early Ireland.
A paper examining the evidence for the species in Ireland, up to medieval times.
http://www.researchgate.net/…/…/54723c1c0cf216f8cfae82cd.pdf










© John Frey, 2016. The Author of this work retains full copyright for this material. Permission is granted to make and distribute verbatim copies of this document for non-commercial private research or educational purposes provided the copyright notice and this permission notice are preserved on all copies.