The system is roughly the same as that for my Frock Coat drafting tutorial--same author and company, but for military tunics. I do recommend reading the Frock Coat Tutorial first, before continuing.--just for clarity.
You don't need that many measures, since it is a proportional system. It is important to remember that when the chest measure is mentioned in the instructions, the 1/2 chest measure is meant; ditto for all the other horizontal measures.
- Chest (1/2):
- Waist (1/2):
- Front chest: (1/2)
- Back shoulder width (1/2)
- Arm length:
- To Elbow
- Vertical measures
- Halfway down armscye:
Mark from the natural waist point, to the back shoulder (the dashed red line).
1/4" (or seam allowance) down from the natural waist, mark over by 1.5 inches to give the back width.
Even with the armscye mark, measure over by about 2" (towards the back) from the red dashed line. Curve a line through this to the waist.
At the waist level, measure out to the half waist measure. Note that there should be little to no ease there. When measuring across, you should not include the portions removed at the sidebody and side seams. If needed, you may need to reduce the amount taken out at these points.
Approximately halfway between the 1/2 and 2/3 breast measures, measure across (even with the point of the back shoulder) by 1/2 your front shoulder width measurement. Curve the front edge from here, though the chest measure, and to the waist measurement.
Unlike the frock coat draft, the shoulder seam is roughly on top of the shoulder, rather than slanting heavily towards the back. So if you know your shoulder slope measure, you can average it out using the back shoulder measure.
Sleeves (blue dots and lines):
Using a flexible ruler or French ruler, measure that curve on the lines even with the first and third points and ending on the middle line to find the topsleeve width. Divide the width of your top-sleeve by four [9.75/4 = 2.43]. Mark off your quarters.
And draw, with the highest point being 3/4th of the way over on the top line.
Square across by 1/2 your fist measurement, and to taste. Because it is squared across, there will be a slight slant.
Now draw the under-sleeve line, which will be 3/4 the width of the top-sleeve; this will dip slightly below the line at quarter one, and curve up to quarter 3.
Hope this helped. I procrastinated for over a year on finishing and publishing the article, for some reason.
© John Frey, 2017. The Author of this work retains full copyright for this material. Permission is granted to make and distribute verbatim copies of this document for non-commercial private research or educational purposes provided the copyright notice and this permission notice are preserved on all copies.