Monday, November 19, 2018

Peasant Fashion in the Low Countries: Stage Two. Pieter Aertsen


As you may have guessed, this project ended up being significantly more massive than anticipated.  This is the start of Stage 2 of my notes for you to springboard off of if needed; just make sure to give credit and a link back to here.  I had originally planned to publish all of the Stage 2 notes--describing the clothing of each guy in the paintings, but then realized that that post would be massive, since this 13 pages without images, and is only the first of the artists (although one of the more prolific ones).  As a reminder--since I have had someone try to tempt me into scope creep into foods and maybe women's clothing as well--I am only focusing on the men and menswear for this project, since there is a fair amount on women's clothing out there already.

For the most part, I am listing the clothing articles from top to bottom, outside to inside, or at least do so towards the end.  The paintings are presented in chronological order when the date is known, in order to show any developments in fashion during the time he lived in whatever town.  For the most parts, I do not give my theories as to what the garments are made of, but given that we are dealing with lower class, various wools are most likely, with linen for the shirts.
I do not plan to put up copies of every one of the paintings, which, I need to note for copyright, do not belong to me and are public domain.  Image source is linked with the title of the painting.

One (partial) step closer to the end goal!


Pieter Aertsen 1508-1575.  Born in Amsterdam (Netherlands), moved to and lived in Antwerp (Northern Belgium) from around 1540-1555, when he moved back to Amsterdam.  Presumably, the subjects in his paintings were local to him.  https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pieter_Aertsen

·        

                    Other features of interest include, as always, pottery, a pair of what may be tarts (the reason I'm sharing it today, on PI day), a lovely piece of glassware.  There may be a board game on the table.  The floor is strewn with leeks(why?!), and some variety of flower I don't know enough to identify.  There is also a lovely little eating knife in detail, and a...salt cellar?
o   Leftmost (1)
§  Black hat.  Broad brim of the “top hat” type.  Appears to be slightly fuzzy,so I gather it is knit and/or slightly thrummed
§  Black cloth hose.
§  Shoes of black leather, possibly slashed, of the pumps/Mary Rose type
§  Midnight blue Jerkin.  Long skirted, not pleated.  V neck or crossover.  Quite short sleeves.
§  Red “doublet”.  Sleeves are close but not tight, and appear to have some kind of fastening at the cuff.  It peeks out of the jerkin at the neck.
§  Shirt of white, only visible at the neck.  No details.
§  Belt is basic, black leather with what appears to be a double lobed buckle.
§  Dagger of the “bullock” type
o   Musician (2)
§  Brown jerkin, buttoning down the front with possibly glass buttons.  No collar.  About thigh length with side slits
§  Blue-green doublet, form seems similar to above.
§  Shirt is visible at neck but no details
o   Fireplace guy (3)
§  Black hat appears knit, flat on top with a moderate brim
§  Medium brown cloth hose.
§  Black shoes, no slashing visible, same as first.
§  Red jerkin, short sleeves, no visible fastening.  Length is mid thigh, and it may be longer in the back?  Shoulder seams at set at the point of shoulder (both scye and body)
§  Dark blue Doublet is as above, wrist length.  There may be a pinked strip at the wrists.
Frame purse, plus something unknown hanging behind it.  Looks like a dagger sheath, but no hilt visible.
o   Dancer (4)
§  Black shoes as above.
§  Black cloth hose, although the fit is slightly better than the others.
§  Dark charcoal knee length hose of a closer fit.  A codpiece is visible, and the cuff is rolled up.
§  Grey crossover jerkin.  Barely thigh length, with a side slit to the hip.  There is a slight grown on collar.  I see either shoulder wings with long sleeves, or the doublet is made of the same fabric and the jerkin has short sleeves.  Dropped shoulder seam. 
Presumably, that red hat on the floor is his.  Knit, flat topped and with a moderate brim, it's slightly thrummed or otherwise fuzzy.

o   1 (only guy there!)
§  A red jerkin is being worn, closely fitted, and fastening on the left side.  Mid thigh length, and close skirts.  You can clearly see the self cloth buttons and a gap between the edges of the opening.  Sleeves are quite short.
§  At first glance, a greenish charcoal doublet is worn.  However, based on the gap in the jerkin, which shows more natural (sheep coloured) cloth, I think that he is wearing separate sleeves!  It appears there are more self buttons and hints of buttonholes on the short sleeves of the jerkin.  These sleeves are closely fitted.
§  Hints of white show at the cuffs and neck, which more or less matches that showing at the side opening as well; either he is wearing a heavy shirt, or this is the doublet.  I am leaning towards it being a shirt because wearing three layers of sleeves doesn’t make sense.
§  Hose are closely fitted and go all the way up.  They could be either knit or cloth—I can’t tell either way, although they do look relatively heavy.
§  Shoes are black latchet shoes, side not open.
§  Belt is a simple thick rope, loosely tied.  A knife set is suspended from it in a molded leather sheath (black).
o   2 (hiding in the back.  I didn’t see him until I zoomed in).
§  Clothing appears to be similar to the above, although lacking detail.  Jerkin is sheeps black and appears to have brown trim at the hem.
§  Sleeves or doublet taupe. 
§  Shirtsleeves slightly ruffled and peeking out.
§  Hose are closely fitted and black. 
§  Hat is low, with a lightly rolled up hem.
§  Thin black belt, being pulled down by the weight of all the stuff hanging off it.

·         Aanbidding der herders.  1554.  https://www.catharijneconvent.nl/adlib/20934/
o   1
§  Red Hat is broad brimmed, and with a deep flat top.  It is probably a blocked hat, not knit.  There is a band or rope of the same colour around the crown.
§  Jerkin is light brown, possibly leather.  Bicep length sleeves.  Fit is fairly loose, and it appears he is wearing either a narrow belt lost in the folds, or there is a waist seam.  Skirts appear to come to mid thigh, but there is definitely some blousing going on there.  Garment may be allegorical and suspect.
§  Doublet is blue/black, with only the sleeves visible.  They stop at the wrist bone, and are medium fitted, not close but not extra poofy either.. 
§  Hose are brownish (same issue as with the jerkin), and appear to be fairly close fitting and go to mid thigh at least (so likely full length joined hose).
§  Short hair, unshaven to bearded.
§  He also has a gourd bottle slung over his shoulder.  About fist sized on the bottom bit.


·         L'Adoration des bergers. 1555  http://mbarouen.fr/fr/oeuvres/l-adoration-des-bergers
o   1
§  Not much can be seen of his clothing, beside the doublet sleeves.  Which are moderately fitted, and slightly longer than wrist length.  Cuff is close, but I do not see a slit.
§  Full beard, and short slightly messy hair
o   2 (Young guy)
§  Greenish chocolate coloured doublet, with no visible shoulder seam for the sleeve. 
§  Hair is short and brushed forwards.  Clean shaven.

·         The Market Scene.  1550s.  https://www.wga.hu/html_m/a/aertsen/marketse.html
o   1
§  Flattened cloche type hat, medium brown.
§  High hip length doublet of red, sleeves are close fitting, and no collar.  No visible front opening—either was neglected or could be side fastening.
§  Over this, a vest/jerkin of something tan, perhaps leather.  It is slightly longer than the doublet, but may not close in the front (worn open).  It has short sleeves to mid bicep.
§  Something is around his hips…perhaps an apron.  It appears to be grey or natural linen?
§  The area around his hips is covered, but you can see tight fitting hose of red going all the way up.
§  Low black shoes.
§  Hair is short, and he appears to have a pointed beard.
o   2
§  Odd kind of cap.  Red, worn high on the head with a pointed front and ear flaps.
§  Doublet is similar to the above, although apparently less fitted through the body as I see wrinkles there.  Sleeves are fitted and only wrist length.
§  Over the doublet is a jerkin of black, worn open at the waist.  It may be fastened at the neck.  It does have a standing collar (open at the front), which shows an edging of white—possibly the shirt collar.  Sleeves are quite short.
§  He is definitely wearing an apron, possibly of natural linen, and possibly with large pockets.
§  Breeches are just that.  Fairly close fitting shorts or Venetians in dark brown; there is some interesting light play going on in the folds, which suggests a velveteen, but that wouldn’t fit with the scene?
§  Stockings are grey, or a natural wool and gartered at the knee.
§  Shoes are low and black.
§  No beard, and hair is mostly hidden under the cap.
o   3
§  Flattened cloche style hat, same as person 1, held in the hand.
§  Doublet is a faded red, close fitting, and with a collar.
§  A falling band is visible.
§  I am not sure what is around his waist.  Almost like extremely narrow trunkhose.  Or maybe a wide fabric belt and the trunkhose?  Colour is a yellowish brown.
§  An apron is visible.  White.
§  Stockings go up to the thigh, are closely fit, and grey.
§  Low black shoes.
§  Short hair, no beard.
o   5 (not much visible)
§  Doublet or jerkin of slightly greenish brown.  Sleeves are long, and moderately close fitting.  No visible collar.   The armscye looks odd, and may have pleats at the sleevehead.
§  I think he is wearing a hat, black.
o   6, Basket sitter
§  Doublet of palest yellow, visible only at the close fitted but unshaped sleeves.  Sleeves are short.
§  Black hat, possibly knit and fulled.  Looks kinda like a beanie.
§  Jerkin is a style which is long and doesn’t have a separate pleated skirt.  Appears to be a short shawl type collar, and the sleeves are /very/ short.  Length is low thigh, and there may be pleats in the center back.  I’m thinking that the front is crossover.
§  Hose are a charcoal grey, and cloth. 
§  Shoes are low and black.
§  Hair is not visible, and appears to be clean shaven.
o   7
§  Red skullcap type hat.
§  Jerkin is a slightly orangish brown, and long sleeved to the wristbone.  It doesn’t appear to close all the way. 
§  Doublet under it is slightly yellow, and is not particularly visible.
§  White apron, worn high on the waist.
§  Short closely fitted trunkhose.
§  Knit? Hose of madder/faded red.
§  A satchel is worn, but not visible (strap is)
§  Usual low black shoes.
§  Cleanshaven, and hair is short, if slightly longer than the norm.
o   8
§  Black bowler type hat.
§  Mouse coloured crossover doublet/jerkin, open at the neck and showing bare skin.  Sleeves are close and not particularly long.
§  Apron is being worn, and drapes in some interesting folds.
§  Short trunkhose things in a dark red.
§  Hosen are “salmon” coloured and tightly fitted.
§  Usual black shoes.
o   9, Well, dude?
§  Reddish (faded?) hat, looking much like a beret.
§  Dark mouse coloured jerkin, waist length.  Close fitting short (mid-bicep) sleeves.  Short collar is visible with white edging/
§  Doublet is light coloured or just shirt sleeves, although that is rather close fitting for a shirt.
§  He is wearing actual loose trousers in faded red.  Can’t see the length.
o   10.  Can’t see much
§  Outer garment is loosely fitted, with long sleeves. Colour is pale grey.
§  Headwear is a closely fitted hood with a mantle.

·         Bäuerlicher Innenraum, 1556.  https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Pieter_Aertsen_002.jpg
o   1 (dipping boy)
§  Black, likely knitted, flat cap.
§  Jerkin is of a lovely mole brown.  It has extremely short, slightly gathered sleeves and comes to a bit above the knee.  You can see the skirt opening is at the front.  A short collar is visible, and there is something interesting going on at the waist…I cannot tell what.
§  Doublet is also long skirted, about the same length, and is red.  Sleeves are wrist length, and loosely fitted.
§  Hosen are pale robin’s egg blue cloth and appear to go all the way up.
§  Shoes are low, but enclosed.  Black leather and welted.
§  Hair is short (and red).
o   2 (looks like the homeowner?)
§  Hat is a wide brimmed and small crowned number, which is too small to actually fit on his head, so it is cocked to one side.  It appears to be knitted.
§  Red Jerkin is short sleeved, with obvious pleating at the top.  Skirts are cut on,  and I think this is a cross front/dbl-breasted jerkin example, as there is no visible front opening at the bottom of the belly.   Fit is moderately close, but rectangular.  I think that the skirt has a front opening, with a bit of crossover, but am not sure.  There is a short collar.  Most likely wool.
§   His doublet is silvery grey.  All that is visible is the sleeves, which are moderately close fitted and long wrist length.  They appear to be wool.
§  White/dirty white Hosen…these are interesting.  I can’t see what is going on, but I gather they are breeches, ending just below the knee, and a cut on cuff.  They appear to have a patched stress tear at the inside knee.  Fit is close, but not tight…they look a lot like regency era breeches, honestly.
§  Stockings, are a plainer grey than the doublet.  Knitted, I think.
§  Black mules are being worn.
§  Clean shaven, but his hair actually has some length to it.
o   3 (Guest)
§  Hat is quite broad brimmed, with a square top. Colour is brown.  This has got to be a blocked hat, given how thin and wide the brim is.  Crown appears to flare outward somewhat.
§  Jerkin; I think this may be leather.  Short bicep length sleeves, a hint of gathering.  Wide neckline.  It may be a crossover front garment, but there is no sign of it at the base of the neck.  If not, I do not know how he puts it on.  Length is mid thigh, and there is no sign of seam at the waist.  You can see the seams at the shoulder, armscye, and something forward of the side (could be the opening, but no sign of fasteners).
§  Thin black belt, with a short curved sword and bullock dagger hanging from it.
§  Blackish/green Doublet is visible at the neck and sleeves, which are close and come to the wrist.  There is no collar.  Slits are visible at the wrist.
§  You can see white shirt peeking out at the wrists, and at the neck where there is visible smocking and a narrow ruff.  The opening there appears to be slightly to the right of the neck.
§  Hosen are red cloth, closely fitted, and appear to go all the way up.  There may be a codpiece (I see a bulge as formed by one in his jerkin skirt).
§  Shoes are low and black.
§  Hair is short, and he is clean shaven.

·      Market with Christ and the Woman Taken in Adultery, 1559. https://www.wikiart.org/en/pieter-aertsen/market-with-christ-and-the-woman-taken-in-adultery-1559
o   1 (Standing guy
§  Broad brimmed hat, grey.
§  Greyish blue doublet, crossover type.  It doesn’t even reach is waist or cover the potbelly.  Rough collar, and the front angles diagonally from the shoulder to about the bottom of the armcye before crossing over and fastening under the arm.  Slight drop shoulder.           Sleeves are moderate, not particularly loose or tight, and are wrist length.
§  Blackish pants with some golden sheen to them, which could be sun fading on black wool.  I suspect they are full length, and they gather into a narrow waistband.  I see no codpiece.
§  His shirt appears to be close fitting, and has no collar.
§  Clean shaven, short hair.
o   2 (sitting)
§  Thrummed hat!  Which appears to be pinkish.
§  Doublet of red, it looks like there is a grown on back collar, but not much of one.  Sleeves are slightly long. I cannot tell what kind of fastening he has, but it doesn’t look like down the front.  The garment is waist length.
§  Loose fitting trousers of slightly greenish grey.  As above, you can see gathering into a waistband, and the trousers are ankle length.
§  Clogs!  He has them.  These have projections on the bottom, at the heel and just back of the ball of the foot.  No socks are worn.
§  Short hair, slightly unshaven


o   Sitting Dude (1)
§  Madder red jerkin.  Quite short sleeves appear to be cut in one with the body.  The fabric (likely wool) is apparently quite thick.  No fastinings are evident, although there may be some hooks and eyes at the neck.  No collar, and neckline is a round cornered rectangle.
§  “Doublet” Mocha/chocolate brown.  All you can see are the sleeves and hints through the open jerkin.  Sleeves are of moderate fit, with narrow wrists; they appear to be no longer than needed, and ruched up slightly with wear.
§  A blackish belt is evident.  No details.
§  Hair: Mostly clean shaven with some stubble.  Hints of a mustache, but probably just thicker stubble.  Hair is short and curly.
o   Pancake Thief (2)
§  Broad brimmed straw hat of the “boater” type, made of braided straw cords.
§  Medium blue sleeved jacket.  Sleeves are moderately close fitting, with wrist length cuffs getting pulled up from the bent arm, meaning they are not two piece; a slit at the close cuff is visible.  It looks like there is some kind of shawl collar(?), and the garment is worn crossover, secured by a belt?
§  Red “waistcoat” just visible at the chest.  No collar, but the neckline may be bound.  Neckline is fairly low.  Speculatively, it may be a crossover garment as well.
§  White shirt with blackwork embroidery.  Two solid black lines are visible at the edge of the neckline, which is loose, and a row of crosses or ‘X’s just under that.  I believe there is a bosom slit, based on the fold there, and the smaller ‘x’s going down under the waistcoat.
§  Hair: Definite mustache growing going on.  Stubble elsewhere, but neck is shaven.  Hair is short, messy, and curly.


·         Keukenstuk. 1560-65.   https://www.rijksmuseum.nl/nl/collectie/SK-A-2398 (take a look at the bottom right basket…cherries, or tomatoes?)
o   1
§  I am pretty sure his jerkin is a dark blue, with bare sleeve caps.  Comes down to the mid thigh, and looks fairly heavy.
§  Doublet sleeves are loose, but not overly large, and wrist length with a slit.
§  Cloth hosen, red.
§  Clogs, with platforms at the heel and closer to the middle of the foot.  The clogs are pointed.
§  Short hair, long beard.
o   2 (young guy
§  Red flat cap.
§  Kinda a taupe coloured doublet.  Loose sleeved, bare wrist length.  Appears to be fairly short, not reaching to mid-thigh.  No opening was painted.
§  His hosen are black, and closely fitted.
§  Shoes are slip on, with a low heel.
§  Short hair and clean shaven (or too young to grow a beard).


·         Interior of a peasant dwelling. 1560s.  https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Aertsen_Interior_of_a_peasant_dwelling.jpg
o   1, Sitting Man
§  Almost a bowler type hat, with the brim apparently wider in the back and quite turned up.  Caramel Brown
§  I am not sure what he is wearing.  Doublet, which comes down to a slight  point at the front.  Sleeves are relatively loose, and not particularly long, with slight gathering in the wide armscye.  No collar is visible.  Light tan fabric.
§  I am seeing a pleated skirt hanging down in back, of the same fabric as the doublet. It could be part of the doublet, but I am not sure since the top edge doesn’t seem to match the bottom edge of the doublet.
§  Short breeches, moderately close fitting, in what may be black.
§  Dark brown stockings, and light red tied garters.
§  Shoes are full, and more natural leather.
o   2
§  He is wearing a tall but small red hat.
§  Doublet is red, and presumably relatively close fitting in the sleeves.  You can see it close up to the throat, and hints at the cuffs, and just under the waist.
§  Jerkin is black (sheeps black?) and appears to be a style crossing over in the front.  I see a separate cut skirt, probably pleated, and not meeting in the front.  Cuffs appear to be rolled back slightly to expose the doublet.  What I am seeing as a skirt, could also be a satchel—the colours are close, and it is hard to tell.
§  A tiny falling band or collar is showing at his neckline.
§  Whatever he is wearing on his legs is grey.

·         Vendor of Fowl, 1560s.  https://www.wga.hu/html_m/a/aertsen/vendor_f.html
o   Solo guy, with bucket on head.
§  Low, worn thrummed hat in red.
§  Dark brown or sheeps black Jerkin has no sleeves or collar.  Front opening with no sign of closure.  There may be a waist clasp, or a belt.  I can’t tell.  I think it is something like mid thigh length.
§  Doublet is red.  Sleeves are fairly wide at the head with a hint of gathering, but not blousy; I see fairly thick fabric, and the cuffs do appear to be self faced (hints of two layers at the cuff).  It is front opening, and closed all the way up with no sign of fasteners, which likely means hook and eye.  No collar, and I think the garment is self bound around the neckline (close in front, but slightly wide).
§  A shirt is visible, and it doesn’t appear to be fitted at all or really have a collar.
§  I can’t tell anything about the breeches, other than they appear to be close fitting.
§  Hair is short, and he has a long, groomed beard.


·         The Vegetable Seller, 1567.  https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/9/9e/Pieter_Aertsen_006.jpg
o   1
§  We can’t see much of him…but he /is/ wearing what looks like a thrummed hat.
§  Upper garments—whatever they are—are browns.  I think he is wearing a couple of different garments, based on the little you see at the neck.
§  It appears he is wearing trousers, in black.
§  Hair is short, as is his beard, although that is not neatly groomed.
o   2
§  Wearing a red doublet, hip length.  Sleeves are fitted fairly close, and there may be a collar.
§  Under that, you see something almost skirtlike, with front and back pieces.  Medium blue/grey, maybe an apron?  Given the shape of the side opening, I doubt it is a garment skirt.
§  Something is in the way of seeing his pants, hat, and hair.


o   1 (probably outlier as upper class)
§  Jerkin is black and appears to be sleeveless.  A high collar is visible.
§  Poofy sleeved doublet of burgundy (dark red)
§  A modest ruff is visible.
§  Knit black flat cap.
§  He may have a long beard…not sure.
o   2 (Guy drinking)
§  Red jerkin with short sleeves, with considerable pleats into the cap. It has a medium height, stiff, collar.  I am guessing mid thigh to upper knee in length, and it appears to have pleats in the back, similar to some garments in Drei.
§  Doublet likewise has poofy sleeves, and is a tannish colour.
§  Modest ruff is visible.
§  Short hair, and long but neatly trimmed beard.
o   3 (working guy
§  Buff coloured jerkin, barely closing in the front.  It has short sleeves (no poof)  and a standing collar.  I am unsure of the fastening in the front or the length, although that is no longer than mid thigh.
§  His shirt is visible under that.  White, bosom slit down to the sternum, and with a collar and ruff set into place.
§  I can’t say that he is wearing a doublet.  I have to come to the conclusion that separate sleeves are being worn, as they are kinda a tan colour.  The sleeves are of moderate fit and length, with a visible slit.
§  Simple cloth apron, going from waist to upper knee.
§  Red hose, almost certainly cloth.  There may be sign of a codpiece under the apron.
§  Hair is slightly longer than normal and unruly.  Beard is rather long and likewise curly and unruly.

 
·         Jesus Christ and the Woman taken in Adultery.  Date Unknown.  https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Aertsen_-_Christ_and_the_Woman_Taken_in_Adultery.jpg
o   1 (Onion Holder)
§  We can see two main garments here.  A full skirted jerkin in red.  The skirt looks like it is to high knee, and does not have pleats.  There appears to be a wide, standing shawl type collar.  Fit of the body is relatively close, and I believe I see a side seam.
§  Pale green doublet, with close fitted sleeves.  Cuffs are close and a slit is visible, sleeves are long enough that his left sleeve appears to be rolled back by several inches.
§  Long beard, somewhat forked, and short hair.
o   2 (Basket Sitter)
§  Appears to be wearing a “mulberry” red coat.  Fitted and skirted as with guy 1.  It appears to be a sleeved garment, rather than a jerkin, but there it could potentially be rather short sleeved jerkin, with a doublet nearly the same colour underneath.
o   3 (chicken holder)
§  Some detail finally!  He is wearing a black felt hat, tall crowned with a shallow downwards brim.
§  Jerkin has short sleeves, which are obviously in several pieces, consisting of a pleated upper (pleated at top and bottom) and a fitted lower part.  The sleeve comes to about the length of my polo shirt sleeves.  I see no signs of a closure down the front.  There is a collar.  Length is mid-thigh at the most.  Around the top edge of the collar, and bottom edge of the sleeve, are what looks like a strip of self cloth inserted and either cut, or worked into box pleats (or both, with the collar being pleated).  Not seeing any side openings, but the front edge of the skirt is definitely.
§  Underneath is a pale green doublet.  Sleeves are closely fitted to the arm and wrist, and slightly longer than arm length.  I am thinking that it is a crossover closure based on how it falls at the neckline, but could be something else as well; neckline is fairly open, with the collarbone visible.
§  A standing shirt collar is visible, with a narrow line of ruffling at the top.
§  Full length hose are being worn, fitted closely, but definitely of cloth rather than knit.  Colour is a super pale greenish tan (I think).  A codpiece is /definitely/ visible there.
§  Shoes are low slip ons.
§  I am not sure what I am seeing around his waist.  It looks like a thickly wrapped, wide sash?  It is a darker green than the jerkin and goes from hip to sternum, with a seam at the front, and two “levels”. 
§  He is clean shaven, and hair is not visible.

o   1
§  Reddish knit brimmed hat, with thrums.  Much the same shape as a modern boater hat.
§  Bicep length jerkin of brown.  The material looks thick.  Appears to be front opening, and maybe with a small collar.  Skirt is knee length or so.
§  Doublet has loose sleeves, and is red.
§  There may be a slight ruffle to the neck of his shirt.
§  Pale black cloth hosen, fairly thick.
§  Low shoes, which appear to be buckled?
§  Short hair, unshaven.
o   2
§  Hat is similar to the above, but black and probably without thrums
§  Jerkin is blue, and has bicep length sleeves.  I can’t make out details about the front, since it is shadowed.  Skirt is mid-thigh in length, and front opening.  Cloth looks thick
§  Doublet of grey appears to have sleeves slightly short of the wrist.
§  A definite fine ruffle of the shirt is visible at the neck.
§  I am not sure what is going on with the hose.  They appear to be normal hosen, with codpiece visible, but on his right leg it appears to be rolled down and showing a fine patterned cloth there.  Colour is black.
§  Black shoes, with a back to them.
§  Short hair, clean shaven.
o   3 (Simon Pegg)
§  Dark brown hat similar to the other two, looks like it has a brushed nap raised.
§  Blue jerkin with short sleeves.  There is a short slit visible at the top of the one sleeve.  It definitely has a collar, and even lapel.  Buttons are visible, black and flat—lenticular shaped black glass?
§  A second garment appears pale green underneath and sleeveless.  I swear I am seeing a slight roll collar, and extra poofiness, so it might be waist length and crossover front?
§  Under that, I think he has a doublet, of heavy black wool. Sleeves are quite loose.
§  Short hair and scraggly beard.

 
·         Deed of Christian Charity, 1575 https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Aertsen_Christian_Charity.jpg
o   1
§  Mostly covered, but wearing a butter yellow outer garment.  It has          a broad collar which has fallen open, short or no sleeve (sleeves not visible), and comes well past the knees.
§  Underneath, a doublet? of grey, collar mirroring the outer garment.  Sleeves are loose, and a little on the long side.
§  Hair: Short, curly, and receding.  He has a short beard, which appears somewhat unkempt.
o   2 (wealthy)
§  Hat: Shallow brimmed, with a pleated “muffin top”.  There is a band, which may have black feathers in it?
§  Doublet of red wool (heavy).  All that is visible is the sleeves, which are loose, and long enough to be turned back slightly.
§  He appears to be wearing a simple, but wide ruff or a piccadill.
§  Outer garment is a shaub, showing his wealth.  Dove grey, and lined with brown fur.  The sleeves have substantial slits, and are only being half worn.
§  Shoes are simple and brown, slip ons with a low heel.
§  Hair is short, and well brushed.  Beard is neatly trimmed.
o   3
§  Not much is visible, beyond a brown cloak, and brown shapeless hat.
§  Doublet sleeves are a dirty grey. 
§  Has a pair of crutches, simple T shapes.
§  Beard is—oddly, based on the other clothes—neatly groomed.
o   4 (beggar?)
§  Not wearing much.  Hat is moderately brimmed, with the edges curling up all around.  Crown is “bowl” shaped.  I think it is a yellowish wool, but could be straw.
§  Wearing either a cloak, or skirted doublet wrapped and tied around his body.
§  No pants!
§  He is receiving a sunny yellow skirted doublet (high knee length?), with a falling collar from 2.
§  Short, messy hair, long unkempt beard
o   5 (drinking dude in more standard clothing
§   Short doublet, of the more standard type in a slightly bluish grey.
§  A side lacing? jerkin in a true grey, with vertical lines of trim.  It appears to have a standing collar slightly rolled back.
§  Cape? in black.
§  Full set of modest ruffs
§  Legwear is of the Venetian type, albeit modest rather that voluminous.  They are red, with a pair of black stripes up the outer leg—there may be a pocket there.  Leg opening is just a slit up the back of the calf—no extra length in the outseam.
§  Black/grey stockings, closely fit.
§  Low black shoes.
§  Short hair.  Cheeks appear shaven, but there is a neat beard.
o   5
§  Grey—natural wool?—felt or felted knit cap.  Somewhat shapeless, but with a narrow brim.
§  Navy blue cloak or extremely loose fitting jerkin. 
§  Doublet is medium brown, sleeves are loose, but short.  Neckline is rather open.
§  Either a white/grey (could be white and dirty) shirt exposed above the doublet, or another lighter doublet.  A loose collar is visible.  He is also holding a possibly similar garment, which I am guessing to be a doublet rather than a shirt.
§  Somewhat trimmed medium length beard.  Guessing short hair.
o   6 (kid)
§  Long sleeved green jacket.  Kindof a moss green.  Sleeves are short and close fitting, with a visible shoulder seam, and slit at the wrist.  There may be a small collar.  It closes at the neck, with no visible fastening—probably hook/eyes.  Comes to roughly the top of the thigh.
§  Underneath is possibly his shirt, which is not tucked in (shame on him!).  It appears to be just a touch shorter than the above jacket. 
§  Pants are straight legged trousers, probably around high ankle length to begin with, and now ragged.
§  Fluffy blonde hair.
o   8 (beggar)
§  Brown cloak, lined with red.  It may have a hood?
§  Doublet/jacket sleeve is loose, but not long, and has a slit.  I am guessing it is natural white wool.
§  Hair is messy, but not unkempt, and short.  Likewise the beard.
o   9 (wealthy)
§  Also wearing a shaube or rock type garment in dove grey with brown fur lining.  I want to say it has underarm slits, by the way it folds.
§  Garment underneath is almost a charcoal coloured robe(?), likely with a standing collar.  I see a modest ruff, similar to guy 2.
§  His hat is neatly formed, in a bell shape much like a modern women’s cloche (but with a flatter brim).  Black, with shining trim and a headband. 
§  Closely fitted red hose—either they match the colour of his leg garments, or they go all the way up.  Can’t tell the detail.
§  Black mules for shoes.
§  Beard is long and may be curled?
o   10 (giving out food)
§  Grey sleeveless jerkin, which may or may not have a collar.
§  Standing ruff like the guy above—I am starting to wonder whether it is part of a uniform?
§  Doublet sleeves are long and loose with close cuffs.  Colour may be bluish.
§  Hair is short, and moderate beard length with trimmed sideburns (does not run into the hairline).
o    11
§  Short cape of the semi-circular type, buff coloured.  There appears to be some extra fabric at the neck, gathered in folds.  The cape or shawl is definitely shorter in the front than in the back.
§  Dark grey—moleskin coloured—doublet.  Sleeves are closely fitted, and without extra length (neither are they too short).
§  You can see a touch of white at his left wrist which is probably the shirt.
§  Hair is quite short.  No facial hair.
o   12 (corner dude)
§  Hip length dark brown tabard or cloak thing.  It could be a cloak he is wearing so his right arm is free.
§  A hat is present, in a dirty brown, in his hand.  It appears to be one or two steps up from just being a hat blank.
§  Jerkin of dove grey, with a HOOD.  Sleeves appear to be almost just bell caps.  Length is to the knees, with side slits potentially to the waist.
§  Under that, a greenish grey doublet with loose sleeves.
§  A loosely sleeved shirt is under that, peeking out at the wrist.
§  Pants are closely fitted but relaxed, and a rather ugly yellow brown. 
§  Over those are some kind of dirty white stockings.  They have interesting drape patterns on them, which almost could be cross gartering, or like he is wearing the Russian portyanki (link to example).  The top is rolled down.
§  Shoes are black mules.
§  He has a fascinating lidded wicker basket, which I think is attached to his belt.
o   13
§  Grey tabard or bell sleeved jerkin with a collar.
§  Quite modest ruff.
§  Doublet sleeves are dark green, and closely fitted
§  Close fitting hose of black?
§  Shoes are not distinguishable.
§  Short beard without sideburns, short hair
o   14 (background guy)
§  Looks like an extremely short, sleeveless jerkin, possibly with shoulder wings.  Greyish
§  Short skirted doublet underneath, of a yellowish tint. 
§  Something is going on at his wrist, but I cannot tell if is a ruff or not.
§  Short breeches in dark brownish yellow.
§  Short hair.


o   1 (chest hauler)
§  Somewhat bright orange doublet.  Waist length, and appears to be front opening.  Sleeves are wrist length and appear to be slightly loose.
§  Pants are a darker orange.  It almost looks like Venetians to above the knee, and tight fitting cannons to the upper calf.  A modest codpiece is visible.
§  He may have a black cape on, but it is hard to tell.
§  Stockings are probably knit, and grey.
§  Black shoes.
§  Short beard
o   2 (Muleteer
§  Somewhat shapeless hat, probably blocked.
§  Multiple upper body layers;
§  Black vest being worn; no sleeves, and waist length.  This could be shadow, as well.
§  Brown jerkin, high thigh length, with sleeves to just above the elbows.  Skirt is not particularly full.
§  Red doublet, with only the sleeves visible.  Sleeves are close fitting.
§  I suspect he is wearing “gauntlet” gloves.
§  Red trousers are widely straight legged, possibly gathered at the top, and slightly high water.  The fabric is quite drapey.   
§  Probably clean shaven, and short haired.
o   3 (creepy dude with hat.
§  Round topped, blocked hat.  Moderate brim.
§  Jerkin/doublet is mouse grey, and loosely fitted.  That could be a cape, actually.
§  Leggings….dirty white and I see horizontal lines.  They are closely fitted, and that is all I can say.
§  Shoes appear to be mules.
§  Short, unkempt, and pointed beard.
o   4 
§  Red thrummed hat.
§  Grey short sleeved jerkin.  Bare arms otherwise.  I can’t interpret the folds
§  Legs are closely fitted to the knees at least.
§  Clean shaven.

·         Christ cleansing the Temple, date unknown.  https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Pieter_Aertsen_Christ_cleansing_the_Temple.png
o   1 (kneeling with eggs)
§  Red thrummed hat.
§  Grey doublet, with two part poofed sleeves (upper poof and bicep down close fitting).  It is only waist length, and may have a slight collar which has fallen.  It may be side opening; there is a up curved hem to the visible side.  I cannot tell how it opens.
§  A shirt is visible beneath the doublet, and at the elbow where there is a hole in the doublet.
§  Hosen are red; they appear to have been joined hosen (with codpiece clearly visible), but wore out to the point where they are shorts.
§  Hair is short, as is his beard.
o   2 (Over by archway). Might be symbolic. 
§  GREEN thrum hat. 
§  Wearing a loose overgarment
o   3 (basket of chickens on head)
§    Black jerkin with long skirts.  Fit is close, sleeves are wrist length and close.  I almost appears there are back pleats, and the front skirts are tucked up to the small of the back out of the way.  Honestly, it looks a lot like a tailcoat.
§  Something is covering his thighs.  Unknown, but appears to be skirts of another garment
§  Below that, I think his shirt is showing.  So he is not wearing any kind of pants.  Shirt collar also shows at the neck, tall and drooping.
o   4 (Two basket)
§  Long skirted red outer garment, coming to about knee length.  Sleeves are medium, and wrist length.
§  Close fitting, possibly black, hosen.
§  Short hair, pointed beard.
o   5 (Slipping dude)
§  Grey pillbox type hat.
§  Grey outer garment, no visible opening, long and fairly close sleeves.  
§  Slight ruffles at the wrists.
§  Red cloth hosen to the knee at least.
§  Low slip on shoes.
o   6 (tackler?)
§  Red/yellow outer garment.  Sleeves of moderate fit, and a floppy collar.  Upper thigh in length at least.
§  I swear that is a falling band visible at his neck.   









© John Frey, 2018. The Author of this work retains full copyright for this material. Permission is granted to make and distribute verbatim copies of this document for non-commercial private research or educational purposes provided the copyright notice and this permission notice are preserved on all copies.  The images do not belong to me, but I edited them for clarity.

I have no idea why the word "schedule" is below this, or how to get rid of it.

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