Friday, July 1, 2016

Six month Review; Jan - June 2016

Last year, I did a year end review of what I had made....this ended up being slightly long (although so satisfying to see everything I managed to finish).  This year, I figured I would split it into two, with bi-annual reviews of completed projects.

Double Breasted red brocade waistcoat.  The first project of the year that I completed was a carry-over from early the previous year--procrastination got the better of me, but I finished it in time for the Procrastination Challenge for the HSM.  This is based on a 1850s waistcoat in the Met, and was drafted with an 1890s cutting guide; I do plan to make another from mid-century using a cutting system from the correct decade.  I got some practice in on making collars, pattern matching single welt pockets, and made fabric covered buttons for the first time.  Started April-2015, and finished 1-27-16.

Pleated Tall hat.  A late Elizabethan hat to match the my Sture Suit.  It was constructed with a base of layered felt and canvas, all padstitched together to stiffen.  Quite an enjoyable project, and I'm happy with how it turned out, even if it is a little small.  2-1-16 to 2-8-16.  14 hours.

Norlund 78 Hood.  A scaled replica of one of the hoods from the Herjolfsnes finds.  It is a fairly typical 14th century men's hood, with an extremely short cape and a liripipe, and wasn't particularly difficult to make.  The sewing of it was more an experiment with using a bone needle when sewing, and the effects of a seam smoother on wool. 2-5 to 2-23-16.  17 hours.

Norse Shoes (Mark II).  I began patterning the shoes at the end of last year, but didn't have the leather to actually make them. So, when I finally got some, I finished my pattern, then put them together.  They are a fairly generic Norse turnshoe, somewhat based on the Staraya Ladoga pair (which I want to make someday, but my skills aren't yet up to it).  Making them was a learning experience, as was the first time I wore them hiking in the woods (comfortable, but they need to be fully stuffed (waterproofed), and the lacing system needs work).  The uppers are sewn with a butted stitch in linen thread, and the lowers were done with artificial sinew for durability.  3-15 to 3-26-16, and 10.5 hours.

1880s Dress-Improver: I needed something quick to make for the Gender-bender challenge, since I was running out of time.  So, when a friend mentioned she would like a bustle pad, I decided that would work.  They are based on several examples from the late 1800s.  It isn't nearly as period as it could be, but cost and practical considerations made me keep it down, and I may someday make a better one which is more closely based on an extant example.  It was a learning experience, for sure, and actually gave me some trouble.  4-30/5-1-16, and maybe 5-6 hours.

Dungiven Jacket (Mark II): After my first one was stolen, I decided to snag wool to make another rendition.  For the most part, this was patterned and made almost exactly the same...other than fixing the error I somehow made in my math (which resulted in the chest measure being a full 3 inches larger than it was supposed to).  I also neatened up the seams, and used black linen thread to sew, rather than wool thread.  4-17/5-21-16 and 27 hours.

Pluderhose: So...this was a mad idea of mine.  Try to write a series of tutorials on making the blasted things, while actually making a pair.  It seems to have worked, although I can't attest to the clarity of my instructions...they make sense to me, at least, and have mostly step-by-step photos.  The pattern was based on the Sture pairs, and is mostly made of cotton ticking, velveteen, and a faux-wool suiting for the lining (as much of the materials as possible were from stash).  It was most definitely a learning experience, since I had to figure out how to draft them, from near scratch. 1-28/6-1-16, and 56 hours.

Lucas Type 5 Shoes: My next project was a fairly quick one--done over the course of three days (frantically trying to get them done for Renfair, in fact).  The lucas 5s are the first built up shoe in the Irish shoe typology, having a turn-welted sole, and really are suitable for the 16th through the 19th century.  As per the archaeological paper by Henshall, they were sewn with wool thread.  6-9/11-16, 10 hours 20 minutes.

1860s "Sailor's" Topcoat:  Another fairly quick project, this was my entry into the Travel Challenge for the HSM.  For the most part, this was me taking a break from the 1570s doublet I am still working on.  A canvas topcoat, of the "body-sac" kind--more or less a frock coat in pattern, with the skirt grown on to the fore-body.  There is no lining or stitched shaping of any kind (i.e. no padstitching), so the hand-work was minimized to the buttonholes and sewing down facings.  6-27/7-3/16, 13 hours and 41 minutes.

Not a large number of projects, I know.  However, I am currently also working on--and mostly finished with--a 1570s doublet (to go with the finished pluderhose) using my experimental drafting system, and a large quantity of padstitching; plus a ruff to go with the same outfit.

To Continue on to the Second Half of the Year....

© John Frey, 2016. The Author of this work retains full copyright for this material. Permission is granted to make and distribute verbatim copies of this document for non-commercial private research or educational purposes provided the copyright notice and this permission notice are preserved on all copies.  Photographs of my work may not be duplicated.

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