Saturday, March 24, 2018

Project Roundup: What Have I been Doing?

...not much, to be honest.  I have only completed a couple of project, and my major projects have been having...issues.  Two of the major projects from last year--the Hasting's Suit, and the Patchwork Paletot--have both been shelved until further notice.

My other major projects have been having issues getting past the drafting stage--a 1760s Redingote was on deck (I even have the fabrics for it) but I never got around to cutting out a mockup to check the fit, and now it's getting warm enough that it would be next winter before I get to wear it.  The pluderhose for a slightly secret project--I am trying to keep the details a surprise, but not that I am working on German Ren again--have been...problematic.  I found issues with my drafting system not creating a pair of the undershorts which will fit, and went through a full 6 drafts before I got close to having mobility. 
Because it's a good, generic sewing photo.

 The first test fit for the Gestalt Rock cut out.  It looks pretty close to the pattern given in the Austrian Tailoring books from period.

For the January HSM, I decided to finally put buttons on my fencing doublet.  Just basic thread wrapped ones, shown here.

And all the buttonholes with the project finished!  Mind...I haven't worn it yet.

Bit of a terrible photo, but I went through a second draft as well.  The first one fit, but I wanted to make one with heavier, less draping fabric (acrylic felt here).  The sleeve is problematic.
To check the fit, I have scraps of faux fur pinned inside.  I'm also wearing the layers of my Brunswick suit.  Such a pain to put on for only a few minutes of wear.

But since I was happy with the cut of the body, I went ahead and cut it both from the heavy wool and the faux fur lining.  Naturally, I had issues with the lining...I really could have used another half yard, and I bought it something like 18 months ago.

With that, I needed to stiffen the collar and front edge.  Unwashed cotton duck was used.  And I found that the sizing in said cotton duck burns and sticks to my iron.  I was not happy...but since I use an old fashioned dry iron, you can use a chisel to scrape it clean.

 Talking with the Modern Maker, I found that the entire collar should be padstitched with rows parallel to the top edge.  I also went down the front interfacing slightly to help control where it rolls back to show the lining

To a different project....drafting up a 1760s frock coat, to turn into a Winter weight redingote.  I believe I went through three different drafts of various qualities.  The first is no good, but the second and third (to my measurements, and proportionate, respectively) should theoretically work, albeit with radically different results.  I decided to put this project up for a while, in favour of working on a Spring/Fall Redingote (1822 draft).

It's so fluffy!  Seriously...this is a rather nice faux fur; nice and pettable.  I've gotten the lining (exception of the sleeves) all sewn together here.

 And trying it on.  I'm pretty happy with the results so far.  It is definitely going to be quite warm!  And cozy.
The current draft for the pluderhose base shorts.  You may remember from my Brunswick suit that the base shorts of pluderhose are are used to both support the finished product, and the outer pane's draft is based on them.
The main issue I had in making these is that the rise and thigh measures were not wide enough...eventually I got smart and remeasured to find a good 4" difference.  Upon redrafting, it worked much much better.  I am also in the process of re-writing my drafting tutorial for these...streamlining it, and making sure it works better.  I need to draft out one more copy to check the fit and make sure the proportion works.

And then...I decided I needed to make some underwear.  Specifically, early 15th century braies.  Pattern is pretty simple, just two rectangles for legs, and a strip of a gusset for the rise.  Unlike the typical pattern, which calls for a strip to run all the way up the back, I tapered it to give a closer fit in the back (as is seen in manuscripts).

And all done.  Even though I handsewed these, they still only took maybe 6.5 hours, including felling every seam.  As far as I can tell, the fit is promising, but I will have to wait until my 14th century belt buckle comes so I can make the narrow belt to fit in the casing and hold them up.

Happily, I finished a major project a few days Ravenpuff wool scarf.  Just in time for Spring (it's still chilly in the mornings, though!).  11' long and 1' wide, and in the blue/gold of Ravenclaw, with black stripes to represent my Hufflepuff side.  Technically, it should be blue/bronze, but it is apparently rather difficult to find bronze wool yarn, even in online fiber shops.  It has a number of flaws, but I like it and have gotten a number of compliments on it.

Really, that's about all I have been working on, or gotten done.  As said...not much.  I will say that I am happy that I finally finished (more or less) my article on Plainsewing in Depth.

© John Frey, 2018. The Author of this work retains full copyright for this material. Permission is granted to make and distribute verbatim copies of this document for non-commercial private research or educational purposes provided the copyright notice and this permission notice are preserved on all copies.

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