Matsukaze Workshops: Peasant Fashion in the Low Countries: Stage 2; Pieter Bruegel the YOUNGER

Pieter Bruegel the Younger was born 1564 in Brussels as the oldest son of Brueghel the Elder. Despite being the son of a famous painter and copying his fathers work, he was not directly trained by him, as Brueghel Elder died when Younger was only 4-5 years old.

The usefulness of his work for this survey varies, like that of most artists; much of his opus is out of period and shows it, others are direct copies of his father's work and was covered when I analyzed Elder's paintings (others of these are survived where Elder's original did not), and, of course, others are allegorical and just too funky for inclusion. Additionally, he produced /many/ copies from his shop, some of which are referred to as different names--several times I managed to dig up a painting I thought was new only to find I had already covered it. Often, they are undated and I have to guesstimate the period they're showing--when I go and finally get to do posts regarding individual garments, I will attempt to chart a timeline of style development.

I decided this time to include my additional commentary from the Facebook posts I have been making daily; while there isn't much focused interest in those and I don't discuss them much, I figure it could help people searching for examples of random items in these paintings.

Peasants being Attacked by Bandits. 16th century sometime after he was born...

We really aren't off to a good start, but these aren't in any particular order. The image is super dark, brownwashed, and only has one subject anyways. However, I particularly like the Green/Black pluderhose of the leftmost bandit. Two of the bandits also have wheel-lock pistols.

1 The only Peasant Dude

Brown long coat, which appears lined with a slightly lighter shade of brown. Heavily pleated skirts. The sleeves appear to have a slight drop shoulder, and no gathering or extreme fullness.
Brown full hosen (assumed. You can see hints of the codpiece, but not much more)

Fair with a Theatrical Presentation. 17th Century,but a copy of one of his father's paintings, and the clothing appears to be after that. I used two different copies for detail; the Wiki for numbering and some, and a higher res version from the Fitzwilliam Museum for as much as possible.

Extra stuff....there is sooo much to unpack there since there is so much going on.
Thespians and stage setup (there is also a fool in the background being mauled by kids), pottery and tons of furniture, a lovely knife on the ground at the bottom,
Various animals including horses, dogs, and pigs, and chickens.
A Cart setup, which appears to have sides made of wicker. Inside the cart there is a spinning distaff, and a niddy-noddy for winding yarn. There are a pair of covered wagons in the back.
Even further in the back you have a pair of guys having a messer fight (whether real or with sticks)
Over by the puking guy, there's a kickball. Over by no.51, a child has a hobby horse.

Black close cap, deeper in the back
Off white jacket, of rough fit.
Brown or black full hose

Black cap with narrow brim
Outer Pale green coat, lined with red. The sleeves are quite close, and the full skirt is cut on and pleated. May be double breasted.
White shirt showing
Full hosen in black

Black hat with narrow brim
Light green coat, with heavy gathers at shoulder, forearm, and skirts. Knee length
Full black hosen.

4; Kids apparently gambling on a top? Off to the side there is a medium brim black hat, and in the middle a red flat cap.

Yellow doublet of hip length. Sleeves are close fit.
Full hose in white

Blue/white upper garment. Unknown type
Matching hosen.

6; Horrible Detail

Brown Doublet
White full hose
Satchel?

7; Gaming...tiddlywinks?

Brown close cap
Black doublet
Buff/light brown full hosen.

Black hat with narrow brim. Lightly thrummed
Red coat, fit is loose and there appears to be slight fullness at shoulder. Single point visible at neck
White shirt
Black belt

Black hat with narrow brim, turned up in the back
Grey doublet, with close fit
White shirt

Really funky hat, black. Close fitting done, back brim turned up. Front prim cut, much wider, and standing straight up.
Black coat, calf length. Skirts top and bottom of sleeves are quite full

11; Snogger on Bench

Black hat; the form is quite round and flat on top, with a back portion extending down.
Brown doublett of waist length. Sleeves are very full, pleated at shoulder and elbow, with separate forearm cannon
Black hosen, points hanging loose.

12; Chug, chug!

Blueish doublet of moderate fit. No front opening visible.
White shirt visible at waist, and especially neck
Full hosen in white, with red points. Unpointed, of course.

13; Musician. Playing a pipe with a single hand, and drum with the other. Interestingly it isn't a Tabor pipe, as you can see holes all long the length, rather than just three near the end.

Quite conical black hat. Fit looks terrible
Dark grey loosely fitted outer garment, with folds running from shoulders. I have not seen it's like before.
Brown hosen.

14; Cart Climber

Red hat with shallow flat top and wide brim, hanging down his back on a cord.
Pale blue doublet, moderate fit, and with narrow cut on skirts
Full hosen in white.

15; Poor Detail, Person not in the high rez version

Black cap
Black waistcoat
Brown doublet
White hosen, although for some reason his knees are red.

Low black thrum hat.
Green coat,with full pleated skirts. Sleeves do not appear to be gathered.
White hosen.

Black hat with narrow brim
Close fitted white doublet
White knee hosen, partially pointed
White stockings, rolled down from the knee.
Black shoes

Green cap with round top and back flap.
Yellowish black coat. Double breasted, with knee length skirts pleated all the way around. Lined with black, I think. Sleeves are very full, and I think gathered at elbow.
There are hints of a green garment underneath at the neckline.
White hosen.

19; Fathir, showing off his crossbow

Similarly styled red hat, with a deeper back
Blue long coat, fully pleated calf length skirt, and sleeves gathered at top and elbow.
Dude...where are your pants?

Black round topped hat with fairly wide brim. Probably blocked rather than knit.
Dark russet coat, with pleated knee length skirts. The sleeves are moderate, and may be rolled up to show a brown lining; however there amay be something else going on there.
Russet (matching) hosen.

Black cloche style hat
Tan doublet, closely fitted to the waist, and with grown on skirts to hip. Sleevehead appears to be gathered.
Pink hosen.

22; Server

Black round cap with back flap
Red doublet, with close appearing sleeves. Sleeves are odd, with gathering at sleevehead even though the sleeve itself is quite tight.
White apron

23; Firetender

Black bowler hat
Coat is Greenish, and odd. The pleats do not appear to come all the way to the waist, and sleeves are likely disproportionate and poorly placed. Interpreted as long coat with pleated skirt and gathered sleeveheads.
Brown hosen

Black hat, almost like a modern flat cap
A scarf? Something odd going on at the neck
Purplish doublet, hip length, loose body, and sleeves gathered top and bottom.
Black full hose.

25; Roof watcher

Black wide brim flat cap
White doublet
White full hosen, actually pointed for once.

26; Pot carrier. His clothing is just weird, and will be discarded on the whole. Probably a thespian or something.

Brown wide brim hat
Green jerkin. Skirts are cut on with a side body slit, front longer than back by a little. Lines of trim in white and red appear a little from the edge on skirt edges and armsyce.
Upper sleeve is chequered red and white?
Black lower sleeve.
White full hosen. These are normal at least, and show the seams well.

White wide brim shallow top hat.
White doublet, closely fit
Red hosen.

28; Puker.

Sky blue doublet, lined with white. Very nice.
Red full hosen.

29; Oyster Gremlin

Black round cap with rear flap
Birty white or brown doublet, with sleeves gathered top and elbow.
White shirt untucked.
Red partial hosen, possibly, otherwise full brown hose.

30; snuggler

Black hat with wide brim turned up at the sides and front. Narrow black tipped white feather in brown hatband
Dark brown doublet
White under-doublet
Dark black hosen.
Sword.

31; Musician

Something black around his forehead. Scarf?
Russet coat, lined with green. Calf length pleated skirts, and sleeves gathered top and bottom.
White full hosen, with red garters on both legs.

32; Dancer

Red shallow coif
Black doublet, neatly fitted. Possibly with cut on skirts.
Red full hose, with one gold garter (single bow, outside knee), and white points.

33; Flagbearer

Black close cap with brim rolled
Black coat, full pleated skirts. Sleeves are moderate.
Red doublet
Full white hosen. He appears to be supporting the flagpole with his codpiece.

Black hat
Light green jerkin lined in red, full pleated skirts. I think it's double breasted. Armscye is open almost to the waist.
White doublet
Black full hose.

Black round hat with back flap
Dark grey coat, double breasted and lined with white. The skirts are knee length, and side opening with the back overlapping the front. Sleeves are moderately full, gathered at the top.
Full hose in dark brown

Brown close cap
Dark blue, mostly shapeless doublet
Full hose in dark grey.

Wide brim light grey hat
Light blue full skirted coat, calf length, no extra fullness to sleeves.
White full hosen

Dark brown bowler cap
Light grey full skirted coat, lined with a similar value of blue. You can clearly see a seam down the center back body.
Red hosen.

38 The Second, back down to the bottom of the painting. Young Scribe

Brown waistcoat worn over
White jacket of thigh length.
White hosen, gartered.
From his belt are two cases, one possibly a pen case and the other ink.

39; Barrel Nappper

Black flat cap with very wide top.
Chocolate Browncoat, gathered knee length skirts and no extra fullness to sleeves.
Grey hosen.

37 (yes, I lost track of what number I was on). Old Guy

Black hat, which appears to be lined with a dark blue.
Dark green double breasted coat, with a plackert pointed at each shoulder.

40; In the wagon

Black cloche hat
Red doublet of moderate fit
White full hosen

41; Clearly holding a Niddy-noddy

Red round had with rear flap
Dark grey doublet, no extra fullness, quite short.
White garment underneath sticking out, with a short back slit
Matching grey hosen.

42; Stool hander

Black clap cap crammed down
Brown doublet
White...is this a second form of shirt? Maybe a woolen second shirtlike layer?
Black hosen.

43; Near musician

Brown shallow cloche hat.
Greenish coat, with pleated knee length skirt. Slightly gathered sleeveheads.
Off white or tan full hosen.

Pale yellow or tan coat. Cut on pleated skirts. Little extra fullness of the sleeves. Interestingly, you can actually see the facings, showing the garment lined with a medium brown or potentially fur, with facings matching the fashion fabric. The lining may be self hanging and not pleated, but this is likely just lack of detail in the art.
Black doublet, waist length
Black full hose, unpointed with black points.

Black close cap with upturned brim
Black coat with heavily pleated knee length skirts and sleeves top and bottom.
Brown full hosen

46; Pointed to priest

Black bowler cap
Black coat with knee length pleated skirts. Sleeves heavily gathered top and bottom. Appears to be slightly double breasted or crossover.
Red doublet
White shirt
Medium brown full hosen.

Bowler hat
Thigh length brown cape/cloak
Black doublet
White straight legged TROUSERS.

Black close cap
Blue coat, barely knee length. Moderately pleated.
Black doublet.
Black full hosen

Dark Grey close cap with no brim
Blue/grey doublet of knee length. No extra fullness
White full hosen

Blue/grey round topped cap with back flaps.
Blue-grey knee length coat, sleeveheads gathered but not lower cuff. Skirts pleated only in the back
White/pale green hosen

Red rount topped hat with ear flaps
Red coat past the knee, fully pleated skirts, sleeves gathered top and bottom.
Dirty white or pale yellow hosen.
Kid behind him has a stick horse.

Red flat topped hat with upturned brim
Black doublet
Red full hosen.

Blue coif
Black jerkin, with separately cut on skirts, and shoulder wings.
Brownish yellow doublet.
White full hose.

The Peasant Wedding. Another piece copied from his father, I believe the clothing is also most appropriate for the 1580s, but am mostly guessing based on the presumption of linear development rather than having an appropriate timeline at this time. It could be good inspiration for a period picnic.

Other things of interest--the design of what I think is an inn in the background...what is that extended wing? I was thinking it's an outdoor access bread over, but that is one huge loaf of bread in it... As always, there is a plethura of pottery.
There are also a bunch of animals, including a couple difference dog breeds, ducks, pig, and chickens.

1; Server

Shallow red hat, with narrow split brim
Black coat, minimally pleated, with narrow sleeves, and shoulder wings.
Full hosen in black

2; Server

Blow round top hat with brim turned up
Blue jacket or doublet, hip length. Fit is boxy for close, and sleeves are close.
White trousers, which appear to have some gathering at the front. Alternately, based on 9, he could have normal hosen, and they're fully covered by a long white apron.

3; Sword cuddler

Small black shapeless hat, narrow brim turned up at the back
Sky blue doublet, fitted, and with gathered sleeveheads
Red layer slightly longer underneath.
White full hosen.
Messer with a ring on guard and particularly narrow blade

4; Nom?

Red knit cap with ear flappies
Medium brown coat with fully pleated thigh length skirt, and close sleeves gathered at the top. The armscye is not particularly wide.
Red full hosen.

Black hat, somewhat pointed and with a wider brim.
Black long coat, at least knee length and with fully pleated skirts
Dark Brown full hose.

Black flat cap?
Black doublet, of close fit. May be lined in a lighter colour.
Lighter black full hosen.
White shirt, no neckline opening visible.

7; kissss meeeee

Blue Tudor flat cap. Quite unusual.
Dark grey jacket, lined with white (visible at neckline). Sleeves are moderate with no pleating and have the cuffs turned up. I see no sign of pleating at the waist.

8; Carver

Short thrummed black hat. It has a very round crown and short brim
Medium Yellow/brown--tawney?--coat, with close sleeves and pleated skirt.

9; Bartender

Black bowler type hat with short thrums or pile.
Red doublet, rectangular fit and no extra fabric at sleeves.
White apron covering legs.

10; Gesticulator

Black hat, with a deeper crown and angled narrow brim, turned up at the back
Dark grey doublet with heavily gathered sleeves at top and elbow.
Black full hosen. Points are visible.

11; More Beer! Remember, it was at this time, because of the Dutch, that there became a difference between ale and beer. Generically speaking, beer was hopped, ale was a "gruit", with other herbs.

Red hat with wider brim. Only underside of brim visible.
Medium brown coat, with close sleeves and pleated skirts

Black hosen

Black hat similar in view to above.
Black long goat with narrow sleeves. Skirts are estimated to be around knee length, and appear almost gathered rather than the more typical knife pleats.

13; Thirsty Piper

Black Tudor flat cap
Black doublet or short coat. Waist length but with sleeves gathered top and bottom.
Red doublet underneath, slightly longer, and possibly a crossover front as the front opening is not visible.
Sheeps black full hose.

Black wider brim hat, turned up at the front
Closer fitted jacket, close sleeves and no signs of pleating, but a little extra fullness in skirts.
Black hose.

Shapeless black hat with narrow brim turned up at front.
Black jacket, possibly crossover front, and pointed at the center chest. Not quite knee length, gathered skirts, and close sleeves.
Black hosen

16; Piper

Red stocking cap with brim turned up
Sky blue doublet, hip length, and with gathered sleeveheads.
White full hose.

Light grey wide brim hat
Black doublet with full sleeves. One sleeve appears to be gathered top and bottom, but the left is not. Artist mistake. At least thigh length and pleated skirts.

Green round crowned hat with narrow angled brim
White jacket with partially pleated skirts, and close sleeves. Skirts are about thigh length
Red full hosen.

Black Tudor style hat, crammed down.
Black doublet, with blue lining. Details not visible.

Black hat with narrow brim

Black doublet. Sleeves gathered at top and bottom. Skirts not visible.

Black tudor style hat
Black doublet with shoulder wings
Grey full hosen.
Sword! Or messer

22; Being dragged home

Black hat
Black Jacket with moderate sleeves, and thigh length pleated skirts
Black full hosen

Red domed hat with front turned up, and two white feathers
Sky blue doublet, or close fit.
White full hose

Black bowler cap
Black doublet
White shirt peeking between doublet and hosen.
Black full hose

Red hat of some kind
Brown coat, narrow sleeves and fully pleated thigh length skirts
Black hosen.

26; Pot Tender

Green doublet with pleated sleeves top and bottom.
Red Full hosen.
White apron past the knees.

Wider brim dark brown or faded black hat
Black coat with pleated back skirts.
White hosen.

28; Black guy 1, carrying a roast bird

Dark blue/black? doublet. Sleeves and fit are close.
Green full hosen.
Apron is dirty white, I think.

29; Black guy 2--go over there

Blue tall hat with narrow brim
Red doublet with slight V neck and close fit.
Black full hose.
Same apron as other guy.

30; Begger

Black hat with narrow brim
Black cloak, probably semicircular
Medium brown hosen
Darker brown lower hosen

31; Shorter begger

Black bowler hat
Light brown jacket, of close fit and grown on skirts. There is extra fullness at back skirts.
Brown hosen.
Either calf height boots or more likely, extra stockings.

32; Food giver

Black hat with taller crown and narrow brim
Black doublet
Black full hosen
Apron

Black cap with split brim. Front horizontal and back down
Pale pink coat. Sleeves are closely fit, and skirt full pleated knee length.
White hosen

34; Child at table

Red hat with no signs of shaped brim
Brown coat of calf length, pleated only at canter back. Sleeves are close.
Apron
Red hosen

Notes for ladies; You see some wrapped headdresses, pinned on sleeves, and coloured aprons.

Peasants Fight with Soldiers, 17th century

I have found a couple of different "Peasants Fighting", the other of which is later in period, and involved a card game.
This one is...interesting. Semi-allegorical, and just plain anachronistic when it comes to the clothing of the soldiers. They look like they stepped out of the 1550s, including those magnificent proto-pluderhose which remind me of tripp pants. I may want that outfit a bit. Or at least to instigate someone else to make it.

Black broad brim hat on ground next to him.
Black knee length coat with pleated skirt. Lined with dark grey.
Red doublet or waistcoat, no visible front opening
White full hosen.
Slightly curved knife

Black with narrow uprolled hem.
Brown outer garment.

Black hat with rolled hem.
Brown outer garment. Sleeves are close and hem likely no more than hip.
White full hosen

Black flat topped and brimmed hat.
White outer garment, moderately fitted.
Russet red half hosen, coming to high knee.
Black netherstocks rolled down.

Black hat.
Red coif under
Light grey coat, thigh length.
Grey doublet.
Darker grey hosen.

Saint John's Dancers on Their Way to Meulenbeeck, 1592. Disgustingly low resolution, but I can make out some details. Apparently, this was a parade of Epileptics, on pilgrimage.

Brown doublet, of thigh length and rude fit, which appears to have an oddly square neckline
Black full hose

Brown cap
Blue Doublet, with full but ungathered sleeves
Brown full hose

Black cap with narrow brim, turned up at front
Black rudely fitte upper garment. I see a slight side slit?
Black full hosen.

4, Musician

Red hat with turned up brim
Pink outer garment with full sleeves, side slit,
Red hosen, points seen hanging

5, Musician 2

Black cap, appearing fairly small
Red doublet of barely waist length and full sleeved.
White garment underneath, with side and front slits
Black full hosen.

6, Running guy

Brown, thigh length outer garment. We can see the sleeves are close to the wrist, but no real other details
Some round brown case close to the waist (either on a belt or cross-shoulder)
Black full hosen.

7, Proto-goth

Black coiflike cap
Black doublet
Black hosen.

8, Lady Hauler

Brown doublet, with moderate sleeves and gapping slightly at the front.
White shirt
White full hosen, with red points.

Black or dark grey doublet of hip length and close fit. No extra fabric in sleeves.
Black/charcoal full hose.

10, in the background on the bridge

Black cap
Red doublet
White full hosen.

The Winchman, 17th century

A painting depicting a traveling begger/hurdy-gurdy man, surrounded by children. While the painting is 17th century--and I suspect 1630s--the majority of clothing is still in line with what I would expect, although with some stylistic differences.
Other features of note; a butcher bleeding a pig and gathering the blood in what appears to be an iron pipkin? Something for the cooks, there.
Some various bits of woodworking, including a ladder with some interesting rungs. Hammers in the trough to the right. Wicker basketry. Dog breeds.

Black round domed hat with back brim turned up. a cord band is visible.
Red/russet doublet, lined with white. New to be seen is that the doublet is spiral laced up the front, although he has it unlaced from chest down to allow for his gut. Sleeves are close, but still have some gathering at sleevehead.
Sheeps black/brown full hosen
Lovely little knife with a white hilt

Black cap
Dark brown doublet, lightly gathered sleeveheads, spiral laced front.
Red garment under, slightly longer, and no visible front opening
Black full hosen.

Greyish broad brimmed hat, front turned up. Narrow tied band, which may just be a spare point.
Kakhi doublet, gathered sleeveheads, and laced front. Lacing points are visible at the hem, with one having a reddish point tied into it.
Mouse coloured under garment, slightly longer. Also laced front
White shirt, untucked at the back
Greenish loose full hosen, raggedly shortened at the calf.
buff netherstocks.

Broad brimmed black hat, turned up at the front.
Black doublet, possibly lined in white.

5; The Winchman

Ragged wide brim black hat which appears to have his hair sticking up through it.
Black cloak, lined in brown and heavily patched.
Brown doublet in the older style. Comes past the waist and no signs of being pointed for hosen. Sleeves are close, and the visible wrist closes with one button. Front closing is one or two points and the belt.
Belt has a simple penannular buckle A longer knife hangs at center front, as well as his bowl .
Red full hose of poor fit, and ragged at the knee.
Surprisingly, tall boots rolled down. They are two colours, as though heavily patched as well.

6, Scribe

Black knit hat with the brim rolled up.
Yellow doublet of thigh length. Sleeves are gathered.
Black full hose.
From his belt he appears to have a inkwell and pen-case.

7, Modern guy His clothing is quite up to date and more wealthy, appearing to be from the 1630s

Black broad brim hat, front turned up.
Brown coat, with drop shoulders and gathered sleeves. Body appears fairly square.
Very 1630s style hose, of the loose shorts variety. Pockets and side trim are visible.
Black netherstocks

8, Gamester

Black flat cap.
Brown doublet, sleeves appear moderately full.
RED GLOVES

Tall knit cap, split to allow for his head
Goose turd doublet, pointed at the front, close but gathered sleeves.
Black Trousers, with points hanging loose.

11, Butcher

Dark blue pork pie type hat, slouched, and with brim turned up
Has a full, neat beard for once.
Black jerkin, possibly leather?
Rellow double, full sleeves.
Faded black full hose, patched a the knee.

12, Old guy

Black flat hat.
Dark brown closely fitted outer garment

Black broad brimmed hat
Black doublet, points clearly visible and actually fastened for once.
Black full hosen.

13, Background pointer

Red cap of some kind
Blue/green coat of thigh length, pleated skirts, and double breasted.
Red doublet or waistcoat.
White full hosen.

Greenish hat.
Brown doublet
Greenish full hosen.

15; Dog walker

Black cap with rear brim turned up
Brown doublet, closely fit
Blue full hosen
Basket on his arm and walking stick.

Blue cap
Pink doublet
Black trouser type hosen.
Apron

Autumn (Slaughter and Pressing the Grapes), end of 16th cen?

Another undated piece, and the above is my estimation. There is a whole lot going on here with harvest time;
Slaughtering pigs and cow(?), including collecting the blood. You get a glimpse of some cookwares, as well as a couple of cool axes.
Grape harvesting and stomping into wine, which includes a small two wheeled cart.
And lastly, overlooked in the background, hops harvesting.

Grey broad brim hat, back brim turned up.
Dark Grey coat with long pleated skirts. Sleeves are gathered top and bottom.
Messer?

Green knit hat, with rulled up brim
Red doublet

Black cloche style hat, lightly thrummed and with back brim turned up.
Black pleat skirted coat (self lined or otherwise with black facings), with sleeves gathered top and bottom. There is a visible white point at the neck/upper chest.
White shirt

3, Axe wielder

Black hat, probably blocked.
Red doublet with close sleeves and a narrow cut on skirt. One sleeve is rolled up a little. There appears to be a slight collar as well.
White shirt.
Black knee length hosen.
White apron, somewhat ragged.
Buff or off white lower leg coverings, either netherstocks or gaiters.
Knife set hanging center front.

4, Butcher

Black knit hat with round top and back flap
Green doublet.
Black full hosen.
White apron
Suit of knives and spoon.

5, Barrel filler

Blue doublet
Black hosen
White apron.

6, Grape Squisher

Pink doublet with short cut on skirts
Green breeches style hosen

14, Grape squisher 2

Black hat with narrow brim
Black doublet
Black knee length hosen.

7, grape hauler

White shirt, sleeves rolled up
Russet full hosen
White apron.

8, drover

Black hat, rear brim turned up.
Red doublet, possibly crossover front
White full hosen.

9. He appears to be wearing more fashonable clothing.

Black hat, fairly fall with narrow, angled brim
Brown doublet, cut on skirts
Brown knee length hosen.
Black netherstocks
(Dirty) white apron

10, Hops Hauler

Red cap, round topped with rear flap
Blue doublet
White full hosen
White apron

11, Hops picker

Brown hat
Red doublet
Black full hosen
White doublet

Red hat of some kind
Black doublet to the waist
White shirt peeking out
Red full hosen.

15 (in the hayloft)

Red hat, brim turned up
Middle Blue doublet, lightly gathered sleeves.

Country Party, unknown date

Other than the clothing, both male and female, we have a quite interesting char with a triangular seat and single stick back with curved bit.

Black knit cap
Light grey coat with long pleated skirts, lined in russet. Sleeves appear fairly large, but with minimal gathering beyond a little at the hindarm.
White hose. Skipped leg day.

2, "fine" dancer

Low black cloche hat
Black wide sleeved coat of weirdness. I think I see a shaube type collar with trim, and sleeves which are very full and gathered, but only go to the elbow.
Lavender doublet. Sleeves are tight and visible at the forearm. One or two points are in use.
White shirt. Thankfully
Medium brown, shorts length hosen.
Black stockings underneath, with a knee-split garter on the left.

3, old gambler

Light blue coat of square cut, and lined with white.
Dark blue doublet, pointed at the waist and neck
White shirt
White hosen.

Red coiflike cap
Black doublet or coat with gathered sleeves.

5, Dancer

Pinkish purple hat with back brim turned up and two peasant feathers in.
Blue/grey doublet, neatly fitted and lined with light brown.
Red full hosen.
Black leather belt and a rather chunky, short messer.

Red coiflike hat
Grey coat, with gathered sleeves.

7, groper

Black doublet
Red full hosen

Black cloche-type hat
Off white pinch backed coat. This is the type which has a grown on skirt, but extra fullness at center back which would be pleated to the waist.
White or light grey full hose
Large black purse.

9, Piper 1

Black hat with wider brim
Black jerkin
Red doublet
Full white hosen

10, Piper

Red coiflike cap
Black coat, lined with medium brown. Appears to have sleeves gathered top and bottom.

11, snogger

Black cap with rear flap
Grey boxy jacket.

The Return of the Fair, 1620-30. The clothing is a mix of new, old, and some funky stuff like the unlabeled guy next to 3.

Some features to note; there is a driver sitting sidesaddle again, but with more visible.
Clothingwise, you see styles which would have been in fashion 70 years before it was painted, as well as some slightly more modern loose hosen. The ladies' dresses are all mostly earlier to my eye. There are more pops of bright blue than normal--this could be realistic, or more likely due to what the painter had available at the time (or aging/conservation work). Still...I really like no. 12's coat.

Black, modern looking flat cap
Red coif
Light green pleat skirted coat, lined with light brown. Knee length, and the sleeves are gathered top and bottom. Double breasted
White full hosen.

Black round cap, possibly with back flap
Medium brown long coat. Sleeves gathered top and bottom, skirt details not visible, but it appears to be not pleated all the way around
Black hosen, at least below the knee.

Black close hat, with rolled up front brim and deeper back brim
Black jerkin lined with brownish. Sleeveless version of the pleat skirted coat, with knee length skirts pleated all the way around. Appears to be fasted at neck and waist.
Light yellow doublet.
Black knee hosen, and black netherstocks.

4, Piper

Brown bowl-like hat
Green tunic-like upper garment.
Bollock dagger on belt
Full white hosen, with red garters.
BROWN shoes.

5, Drank too much

Brown cap with brim rolled up.
Grey doublet, point eyelets visible at waist.
Red full hosen.
White shirt,
Messer.

6, Dancer

Red flat cap
Light red waistcoat
Bright blue doublet, waist length and showing gathers at the shoulder
Red full hosen.

7, Older Dancer

No hat.
Green coat past the knees, pleated towards the back and with a back vent. Lined with brown. Sleeves are full and gathered at the shoulder
Black hosen, only visible to knee.

Black, fairly shapeless hat.
Dun brown doublet
Matching galligaskins--more modern fashion
Matching netherstocks.

Brown round cap with back flap
Black coat lined with dark red/brown, sleeves quite gathered at head.
Blue crossover front doublet
White full hosen.
Brown shoes

Black hat
Black doublet
Red full hosen

Pale blue cap?
Dark grey doublet
White knee hosen
Dark grey netherstocks.

10, Drover

Black, bowler-like hat
Red doublet with full sleeves.
White shirt
Brown hosen, details not visible.

Black round hat with back flap
Brown doublet, gathered at shoulder and forearm
Brown galligaskins
Brown netherstocks
Black shoes

12, Dancer

Black flat cap
Black full pleat skirted coat, lined with a lovely blue. Double breasted, but without super full sleeves.
Medium brown hosen.

Black bowler hat
Black pleat skirted coat, double breasted and lined with light yellow
Dark grey full hosen.
White shirt, no doublet layer visible.

Peasant Wedding Dance, 1624. Again, The clothing is perfectly similar to that of 60-70 years before. I don't think this is due to stagnation in fashion, but nostalgia in painting.

Red cap with brim rolled up.
Grey pleat skirted coat, fully pleated and fast knee in length. Double breasted and lined with a golden yellow. Sleeves are gathered only at the top.
Pale blue-grey doublet or other garment. Only a short opening is visible at the neck.
Red full hosen, with a gap above the codpiece. White points dangling.
Black narrow belt, with knife hanging at center front.

2, exuberant dancer

Odd black hat. It almost appears to have center seams and shaped much like a tea cozy.
Red doublet, with moderately full sleeves
Black full hosen, with white points.

Black cap with narrow brims, front brim flat and rear flapped down.
White doublet with red points. Very short, and with full sleeves.
White shirt, thankfully
White full hosen.
Black belt slung crosswise to right hip.

4, Piper

Grey cloche type hat.
Russet red doublet, with fairly moderate sleeves. Waist length
Dark Blue garment underneath, thigh length and with side slits. It also shows at doublet neckline.
Red knee length hosen.
Light grey netherstocks, rolled to below the knee.
Short messer.

No hat. For shame, sir.
Black doublet with sleeves gathered at the top.
Grey full hosen.

Red flat cap
Medium brown jacket, hip length with cut on skirts, gathered sleeveheads. Lined with a darker brown.
Light brown full hosen, possibly with slashing on the visible thigh.
Messer

7, Drinker

Light grey round cap
Light brown doublet, closely fitted, with gathered sleeves.
Dark brown hosen, white points visible.

Black hat with forward brim
Black coat, with knee length fully pleated skirts. Sleevehead is pleated, and I suspect wrist as well although it isn't visible.
Light brown full hosen.

9, Snogger

Red cap with brim turned up.
Black outer coat lined with white. It appears he is only wearing it with one arm in the sleeve.
Medium green doublet, sleevehead full gathered.

10, hiding in back

Black hat.
Black coat with sleeveheads gathered and pleated skirt.

BLUE hat. A rarity. Looks kinda like a bowler hat. There are at least 4 other blue hats tucked away in the background, and one green one.
Light grey outer garment, of unknown type.

Black slouch hat
Black knee length coat with gathered sleevehead.
Black hosen.

13, Server

Light brown hip length doublet, lightly gathered sleeveheads
White shirt hanging loose to midthigh
Dove grey rull hosen.
Black narrow belt with knife hanging.

14, Red Drinker

Red cap of some kind
Red doublet, white points at waist and chest.
White shirt visible at belloy
Red full hosen with white points

Brown beanie with brim rolled up.
Dull dark blue pleat skirted coat, past knee length. Sleeves are very full.
White hosen
Lange messer

Brown cap, brim rolled up
Medium grey pleat skirted coat with moderately full sleeves.

Black cap with brim
Black doublet
Lighter black hosen.

Mealtime in the Country, date Unknown. I suspect this is later, into the 1610-20s, based on the lack of conspicuous consumption in sleeves and skirts. The detail of the file isn't great, and while high resolution, is rough.

The painting depicts a few assorted peasants, plus a group kneeling around a big bowl of...something, eating communally. A couple loaves of bread appear on the ground nearby. Really weird.
There are dogs, pig, sheep, and birds in view.

Black bowler cap.
White...garment. This thing is funky and will not be included in the survey unless I find a couple more similar examples. Looking at it, it has knee length pleated skirts, a second set of more doublet-like skirts, a double breast plackert which is only chest high and a front opening.
Black full hose

Medium brimmed, round domed hat.
Dark Brown doublet, with narrow sleeves.
Black Full hosen

Red Doublet of somewhat boxy cut, and narrow sleeves.
White full hosen.

Black hat like a trunctuated cone with a narrow brim.
Modern black doublet with cut on skirts and narrow sleeves
Black Knee length hosen.
Black netherstocks

Blue hat with narrow brim
White short jacket
Red doublet
Black hosen, in one or two pieces.

Dark blue cap
Blue doublet
Blue/grey hosen of some kind.

Black tall hat with narrow brim
Black pleat skirted coat, knee length. Sleeves are close.
Dark Grey Hosen

Two Peasants Binding Firewood, 1604-16, believed to be after a work of his father's.

Additional bits of interest are the background harvester's knife and the recorder type instrument on the ground. The method of tying the bundles of branches with withies may also be of interest.

1, In the tree

Black hat
Blue doublet with cut on skirt and close sleeves
Black full hosen
Cool knife with a deep blade, almost like a pointed cleaver.

Pink doublet, with moderate sleeves.
White shirt
Full hosen in red, with white flat points and golden/brass aiglettes visible.
On the ground behind him is a knit hat with rolled up brim, and a black belt with black purse of the two strapped type.

3, Tattered guy

Grey coif-like cap. He has an additional white rag tied around his head diagonally.
Grey waistcoat, with quite wide armscyes.
Grey (all three are the same colour and apparent cloth) full hosen, ragged at the knee and poorly fitted. Black round points.
White shirt, the neckline being quite open.

The Marriage Procession, 1623. The clothing is perfectly normal to earlier.

Some things to look out for include several excellent examples of purses, another of that odd double skirted coat, and some covered wagons waaay in the background. Even further in the background by the houses are a pair of huge shallow pots over open fires. Somebody, please, lend your knowledge to guess what they heck they are cooking/eating in these celebration paintings!
Also, a doggo in the foreground.
The women's wear includes several rosaries as well.

Black taller hat, with moderately wide brim
Brown doublet, loosely fitted. No gathers visible in sleeves
Red undergarment of hip length
Tan breech length hosen, slip of the back of the knee
White netherstocks, rolled down to the calf.
Black narrow belt slung crosswise, with a purse and dagger.

Black split brim cap, both sides folded up.
Black coat, lined with white. This is probably a form of shaube, with lapels, wide sleeves and a collar.
Red doublet or garment underneath
Black hosen?

Black round top hat with split brim and back turned down.
Medium green brown pleat skirted coat, knee length. The sleeves are gathered top and bottom.
Black hosen
Brown D frame purse, fairly large.

Black round topped hat with moderate brim.
Black coat with pleated skirts and gathered sleeves. Calf length
Red doublet
Blue full hosen.

Tall black hat with brim.
Light blue jerkin, with fully pleated skirts and armscyes just big enough for the double sleeves. May be lined in a dark red.
Red doublet, probably. It has sleeves gathered top and bottom...it could be the pleat skirted coat...you can't see.
White apron between the two layers.
Black hosen.

Black cap with narrow brim
Black pleat skirted coat, with gathered sleeves. Lined with a medium brown. May be double breasted.
Green doublet, possibly crossover front.
White full hosen.

Blue! Wide brimmed hat. Red band.
Red doublet
White hip length garment underneath.
Black full hosen.
Carrying a sword with the belt wrapped around it, under his arm.

8, Piper

Black hat with the rear brim turned up. Some kind of beaded hatband.
Red coif underneath
Buff double breasted jerkin with doubled and cut on skirts.
Blue doublet with oddly full sleeves. More like bagpipe sleeves than ones gathered at top and bottom.
Messer
Black hosen.
Black knee high boots, I think.

Black tall hat with brim, red band, and feather in.
Blue double.
White full hosen, with red garters crossing knees.

Black cloche-like hap
Black doublet, shirt peeking out at a gap just above codpiece.
Lighter black full hosen.
Large purse of some kind.

Redflat cap
Blue jerkin. The front is clearly front crossing to give an irregular V shape, and fastens at the left hip. Skirts are fully pleated and calf length.
Brown doublet with full sleeves.
White full hosen
Black belt, with tan purse on right hip.

Red flat cap with wide brim
Red doublet with extra points at the inside of each shoulder. Waist length.
Red full hosen, with white points and black knee crossed garters.
Black narrow belt with knife hanging from. He also has a narrow baldric running from right shoulder to left hip.
White shirt showing at neckline and waist.

Red flat cap with wide brim
Blue funky double skirted garment again! This makes two, plus someone pointed a third in an Aertsen Painting! Skirts are fully pleated with a gap at center front and knee length. Top appears to have more modern doublet skirts and a crossover front. The sleeves are long, and gathered at the top.
White full hosen with red knee garters.
Black belt worn close with a knife hanging. There is also a baldric or satchel strap over the left shoulder.

Black cap of unknown type
Black full skirted coat.

Black cap, fairly tall with a narrow brim.
Black coat, lined with a medium russet. Skirts are calf length and fully pleated, and sleeves gathered at only the top, I think.
Blue doublet, no visible opening.
Blue full hosen, with white points.

Black round cap, back flap turned up.
Black coat, knee length with full skirts. Lined in a russet. No visible front opening.
Black full hosen.

Red cap with ear flaps
Black coat lined with white. Full pleated skirts and sleeves gathered top and bottom. Barely knee length, and probably doublet breasted.
Blue doublet, no visible opening
Brown full hosen.

Black hat,
Black jerkin, with pleased skirts
Red doublet
Dark grey hosen.

Black cap with round top and rear flap down.
Black doublet, also showing points at the inside shoulder, and gathered sleeveheads.
Red garment underneath.
Black hosen, I think

Blueish round cap with rear flap down.
White full skirted coat. Like, really full...the pleats are narrower and than normal, and there is no visible opening.

Red cap
Faded blue doublet,
Faded blue full hosen

22, 23

Red doublet
White full hosen

Red doublet
White apron
Black full hosen.

© John Frey, 2024. The Author of this work retains full copyright for this material. Permission is granted to make and distribute verbatim copies of this document for non-commercial private research or educational purposes provided the copyright notice and this permission notice are preserved on all copies

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Wednesday, February 28, 2024

Peasant Fashion in the Low Countries: Stage 2; Pieter Bruegel the YOUNGER

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