Matsukaze Workshops: Peasant Fashion in the Low Countries: Stage 2. Joachim Beuckelaer

Next up is Joachim Beuckelaer, born 1533, d. 1574, and most active through the 1560s. His artwork focuses on markets; meat, poultry, fish, and veggies, and this can show an insight into some of the tools of those various trades as well as different foodstuffs in Antwerp. He was a nephew of and possibly learned to paint from Pieter Aiertsen, who was the first artist on my list; I think you can definitely see some stylistic similarities between the two.

The Butcher's Shop, 1568

As promised...Ded animals galore, and a warty squash. Plus some of what are either white carrots, or parsnips.
Cooks may find some hints in the sausages, there are a couple of excellently detailed pieces of pottery, plus baskets/barrels, and furniture.

1, The Butcher. Unusually, has a red beard.

White fuzzy hat. Shaped low with a narrow but thick brim.
Black waistcoat. The armscyes are close and it is hip length.
Red sleeves. Just sleeves, pointed to the waistcoat. I didn't see this in the Breughels, but did in Aertsen. The sleeves are slit at the underside of the wrist.
White apron of the typical style. It is still creased from folding.
Knife set with at least four knives in the same sheath.

Another white, fuzzy hat. These don't appear to be thrums, or if they are, they were inserted after fulling (assuming the hat it)
Roughly fitted, short sleeved upper garment in white. No visible front opening.
Black sleeves, points not visible, so may belong to a doublet.
Black hosen, barely visible

Very small black flat cap.
Brownish jerkin with short grown on sleeves.
White sleeves visible, likely doublet or other undergarment.
Black full hosen.
Apron.

The Brothel, 1562

While there are several men patronizing the brothel, four of the six are in more upper class clothing...if they are wearing a ruff/set of ruffs, they ain't a peasant.
Also of interest; the funky three legged and stick backed chair which I commented on not to long ago in the Bruegel painting, plus others. Pottery and diningwares--lidded tankards, a decorated plate and an actual glass, plus a lovely little bone handle knife. There are hints of fireplace cooking tools, and a butter dish (the thing which looks a lot like a candle-holder). There is also an enclosed bed.
The hatchmarks tallying drinks/services are also intriguing, if unknown.

1, Doing a Headstand

Yellow doublet of close fit, and clearly showing four buttons on the sleeves.
White shirt
Yellow full hose, with white points.

2, erm...busy in back room. Clothing may be a mix of peasant and upper.

Black jerkin, with skirts longer in the front and short sleeves.
Green sleeves peeking out.
Red full hosen.
White shirt, which appears very full.

A Dutch Kitchen Scene, --1574

A scene showing two men and two women, making waffles and doing fiber arts.
For the fibre artists, we have a clear floor mounted distaff, and a niddy-noddy.
Cooks get pottery, a rectangular waffle iron, and a brazier thing. You also have a loaf of bread on a painted plate. And for some reason, fish. I don't know about you, but fish and waffles doesn't seem like it should be a thing.

Tannish brown flat topped and wide brimmed hat. It looks much too big for his head, really. Appears knit
Red outer jacket, no visible skirt seam, and with short sleeves with slight easing more than gathering.
A yellow garment is under that, such as a waistcoat. No visible front opening
Under that, a white doublet
Black full hose, loosely fitted.
He has either dead rabbits, or really furry gloves at his knee.

Orangish hat in similar form to the last, but appearing felted and blocked rather than knit.
Green jacket, with short sleeves slightly gathered. It is a crossover front in style and likely has cut on skirts which are not pleated.
Red doublet underneath, visible only as sleeves.
White shirt
White full hosen.

The Fish Market 1568

Showing a fishmonger and his wares, two ladies buying, plus several assorted people in the background.
As always, we have platters and similar, plus the knife the monger is using--a curved tip cleaver with a notch out of the end. There is also a wheelbarrow in the background.

1, The Fishmonger

Short, curly beard.
Black waistcoat, armscyes are fairly close.
Red doublet, loosely fitted.
White shirt, collar is visible, and the neckline not particularly low.
Brown Trousers!
Short apron of white and greenish simple plaid?!

Black jerkin, slimly fitted and thigh length. I am thinking it has pleated skirts.
White garment underneath, probably doublet.
Red full hosen.

3, Street cleaner

Greenish ear flapped cap.
Greenish doublet, open to the waist and narrow sleeved.
White shirt and apron
Green full hosen.
Carrying a rectangular basket

Narrow, but lightly pleat skirted coat to the high knee.
Black full hosen.

Fish Market 1568

Another fish market, again showing a fishmonger with several ladies lined up to buy from him.
Of interest is again, the monger's knife, potters, a number of baskets, and for ladies wear, a chequed translucent partlet. This lady also appears to be wearing translucent oversleeves?

1, The Fishmonger

Black doublet or jerkin, with apparently a V neck.
Red doublet, no visible opening. Sleeves are comfortably close.
Plaid apron again.

2, probably a fisherman

Appears to be a brown flat cap in hand.
Black doublet, worn open. Sleeves are narrow.
Brown waistcoat?, open to the waist.
Brown Straight legged trousers.
White shirt. Neckline is delineated by a black line.
Modest apron.

3. You can't see much of him, but clothing appears to be quite similar to that of the other guy, including trousers.

Fish Market, 1568

In this image, we only have one guy, the fishmonger. Much as before, there are several ladies shopping, and will be useful for their clothing.
I think I have one, maybe two more fish market paintings after this one!

1, Fishmonger

Red thrum hat. The hat is quite low, barely covering the tops of the ears and doesn't have any excess height...it's just a skullcap, really.
Greenish yellow outer garment. No details are visible, other than a slight collar, front opening, and slight gathers on the sleeves.
Red garment underneath, with no visible front opening. It almost appears to be a chequed fabric, with a grid of black woven in.
Apron is again, white with black plaid woven in. A regular set with three black lines.
Red trousers, based on the folds and how they hang.
Same style of knife as in the previous two, this time with bolster and handle pin clearly visible.

The Fish Market. I cannot find a source image of this one, beyond an art thievery company. I'm thinking it is the one which depicts a lady with sleeves rolled up in front an center, and the fishmonger at 10-o-clock.
Fish Market with Ecce Homo, 1570

Another Fish market, this time with much more life to it, given the docks in the background.
Other than the baskets, knife (same style as before), and pottery, several of the more background guys have odd tools; almost pitchfork like, and one which almost looks like a horse-hame cane.
The female attire is fairly standard, although one lady in the center has extra poofy sleeves, and a brown apron--the first time I've noticed that colour (green or blue seem to be most common if dyed).

Red Doublet, with moderate sleeves, and front opening. Interestingly, you can see his tan line on his hand, showing the long sleeves were always worn.
Green trousers.
White (dirty) shirt. The sleeves are long enough that they have bunched up slightly

2, Fishmonger

Brown wide brimmed hat. Just like the ones we often wear.
Green jerkin, with very short, slightly gathered sleeves. The Front has a V neck formed by a slightly crossover front, with it held in place at the waist.
Red sleeves
White shirt. Neckline is a simple scoop.
Chequed Apron again!

Wide brim, possibly straw hat. Like...seriously wide brim!
Yellow doublet. This appears slightly more fashionable than common, with a small standing collar. Sleeves are moderate-close.
White "petticoat" trousers. First time I've noted this style to my knowledge. The waist is clearly gathered heavily, with fairly wide legs going past mid-calf at least.
Unknown stick tool thing; Carved grip, tapered shaft curving into a squared metal fitting at the end.

4, clothing feels odd. In the background it feels like the clothing goes from current and realistic on the left through a spectrum to Religious scene on the right. And he is in the middle.

White thrummed cap, fairly small. It appears to have a slight brim.
Pale blue/white cape slung around shoulders
Red...garment. This honestly is shaped much like a 14th cen cotte.
Yellowish full hosen.
Large metal frame purse.

Red beanie type cap
Light brown jerkin, more or less shapeless.
Black doublet
Brown full hose.
He is carrying a stick something like "3"s

Red coif.
Green doublet with crossover V neck.
White shirt
Two tined fork.

Stocking cap
Yellow doublet
Plaid apron again
Brown Trousers

Red doublet
Plaid apron (probably. Detail is fuzzy). These aprons are only thigh length.
Light brown trousers, only calf length. Capris if you will (or high water, as I grew up with them being called).

The Flight into Egypt, late 16th century

While obviously a religious painting, the majority of the clothing appears relatively normal--the exception being some of the headwear, which I cannot tell whether they're thrum hats worn high (so not covering ears) or turbans.
Non-costuming details to look for include large pottery, baskets--including a backpack--, and several horses rigged for packing.
A few points to notice in the menswear are many pairs of trousers and the prevalence of what I believe are thrum hats.

Red thrum hat shaped like a beehive.
Black doublet or jacket. Details not visible as he is behind a lady.
Messer.
Brown full hosen.
A cage-like pack basket, partly covered in cloth.

Brown very wide brimmed hat.
Red short sleeved jacket. The skirts have some extra fullness at the back, but do not appear to have cut on or pleated skirts.
Dark brown doublet
White trousers. Fit is moderately close to the knee, then fairly straight.
White sack hanging from belt.

White beehive thrum hat
White coat. The sleeves are reasonably fitted. Thigh length. There are folds in the fabric at center back.
White trousers.
Frame purse hanging from a slightly wider than norm black belt
BACKPACK! This appears as a rectangular shallow basket in wicker, with stuff inside it and a cloth tucked in and strapped down (speculatively). Really cool.

Red beehive thrum cap
Red coat with short sleeves and apparently a revers.
Black doublet

Tannish grey jacket with short sleeves. There are extra folds hanging at the front and fullness. It is much shorter at the front than the back.
Pink doublet
Tannish trousers. These are very high waisted and appear with straight legs.

Orange (that's a first for hat colour) beehive thrum
Greenish short sleeved jacket, just past hip length. The folds at back of neck make me thing and wonder if it has a hood.
Yellow doublet
Red trousers with full cuffs.

Odd white tall hat. It has a strange point at top and doesn't appear too textured. Top is also more flat than the other hats.
Brown cape or cloak, fastened at the neck.
Black jacket, thigh length and with close sleeves. Sleeves are rucked slightly and you can see a tanline at the wrist.
White hosen, presumably full.

Red beehive thrum hat
Tanjacket of short sleeves and thigh length. There is unusually a differently coloured section or trim at the bottom. May be double breasted.
Dirty white doublet.
Red full hosen.

White beehive thrum had.
White coat, worn off one shoulder. No signs of a waist seam, but there is fullness at back.
White doublet
Medium brown hosen.

Brown monmouth cap. This is nearly identical to the one Sally Pointer sells a pattern for.
Voluminous white cloak or coat. I can't tell if he just has his arms wrapped in the cloak, or if there are sleeves.
White hosen.
Messer.

The Four Elements: Earth 1569

Showing only one guy, in the background, and many, many fruits and vegetables. His clothing feels odd to me, but I can't really place it.

1--only guy, by the well

Red knit cap, possibly a small flat cap.
Pale yellow outer sleeveless garment.
Brighter yellow sleeve, either by themselves or belonging to another garment underneath, which doesn't show at the neck. I really do not know what is going on here.
White shirt. Either with an apron, or untucked.
Red hosen.

The four elements: Water 1569

Once again, only one subject who is pertinant to the study...the fishmonger. That said, there is a guy wearing proto-pluderhose in the background. We have the usual assortment of platters and wickerware on view, and one lady have a thrummed broad brim hat.

1, fishmonger

Red jerkin, with shoulder wings. It is clearly fastened at the breast and probably only there with the single point. There appears to be a small grown on collar.
Yellow sleeves or doublet.
White shirt. It seems to have a narrow dark red edging on the scoop neck.
Short apron. It doesn't appear to be plaid, but that could be blended in from dirtiness on the painting over the years. It almost appears pleated.
Red hose or trousers.
Brown frame purse, fairly large.

The four Elements: Fire 1570

So many dead critters, showing the pantry or kitchen of a manor. PLUS...many pieces of pottery, a set of lovely glasses, and bread rolls. You can clearly see the lacing rings on the left lady's bodice. There is, again, only one guy, who is drinking by the fire. We aren't counting Jesus in the back room.

Green...jacket. Relatively close fitted, with some fullness to the skirts, which are thigh length. Sleeves are closely fitted, and there is some sign of a grown on collar.
Black full hose of fine fit.
Brown frame purse. Don't worry...I will discuss the purses I've noticed with relation to Gobitz later, since I have a copy of Purses in Pieces.
Black, mule-like shoes.

The Four Elements: Air 1570

The last of the series, this depicts an Open Air market with, yes, many ded critters. Chickens, wild birds, and rabbits. We have three subjects this time. It was nice how fast the onesies were to write up, but still...
We also get views of how the birds were contained before slaughtering, a docks, and some large baskets with a variety of produce, presumably.

1, Butcher? Cock-seller?

Red doublet. You can clearly see the slight gathers at the back of the sleeve for ease, and the sleeves themselves are fairly loose. Waist length, and no signs of lacing points.
Sheeps black or brownish garment peeking underneath.
Lighter red--rose--hosen or trousers. I can't tell...the seat is closely fitted, but the wrinkles around the knee make me think trousers.

2 lounging with cakes.

Yellow jacket, of close fit. Fastened only at the breast and open at the waist. Hip length.
Green doublet, waist length.
Red trousers.

Black bowler kind hat.
Red doublet, possibly cross front.
Something is peaking out from the doublet hem.
Black full hosen.

Market couple 1560s

Showing a man and girl, yet another scene of ded things, and veggies. The man is likely some sort of hunter or trapper, and has several tiny birds hanging from his belt. Additional details of interest might be the wheel of cheese, and basketry. There also appear to be a pail of milk.

Hunter?

Broad brim black felt hat, with slightly round dome. There is a black twisted cord as a hatband.
Roughly shaven.
Black jerkin, possibly with small grown on collar. It is hip length with no sign of a cut on skirt.
Red doublet, lined with a darker russet visible at the slightly turned back cuffs. The sleeves are moderately full and clearly gathered into the armscye.
White shirt, untucked (a horrible fashion).
Red full trousers.
Black shoes, clearly of welted design and round of toe. Perfectly modern looking in shape, really, albeit flat soled.
On a loose, narrow belt he has a frame purse. The frame clearly consists of a single bar with the purse hanging from that, with a D shaped wide opening. The overall shape is trapezoidal with some visible gathers on the front. I cannot tell if there is a flap.

Market Peasants 1567

Another scene with a single guy, we also have a young lady, an older one who is probably her mother, dead things, a couple baskets of eggs, and that odd lozenge shaped loaf of something with crescents embossed onto it.

Only dude. His clothing is slightly odd, and I'm not entirely sure what I'm looking at in the front opening.

Red jerkin with very short sleeves. It appears to have a narrow but floppy collar, and is fastened wit ha point only at the bust.
Black jacket is being worn under the jerkin. This is thigh length, and have no visible opening. The neckline is close, and sleeves do not appear particularly wide. I am guessing it is double breasted, but has a center opening on the skirts.
Dirty white shirt appearing in a slot above the trousers and between the jacket skirts.
Grey close trousers. Calf length, and not particularly loose of fit, but still much looser than hosen. They do have a codpiece. You can see the waist fastening, but I am not sure what is going on there...it is likely points, but almost appears to be a pair of buttons as well.
Additional grey cloth netherstocks or sockings are visible.
Black low shoes are visible in some detail.
Hanging from a narrow black belt (Annular buckle?) is a small knife. There is also a small coin purse in brown leather hanging out next to the codpiece.

Market Scene 1563

One guy, and two younger ladies. One of the ladies is wearing a heavy, shortsleeved jacket. For other details, we don't have much, although there is a lovely wicker platter with a braided edge. Again, those odd loaves. There are also several wheels of hard cheese.

Only guy

Tan broad brimmed hat with flat top. It appears slightly fuzzy. There is a band made of cord.
Black jerkin, of knee length or so. There is clearly a collar, and the sleeves, while quite short, are heavily pleated into the armcye.
Black doublet. No front opening visible, and the sleeves are closely fitted. Likely double breasted.
Red loose trousers.
Grey netherstocks or possibly full hosen (latter suggested by Drika)
Clogs! For some reason it's unusual that the subjects are wearing clogs rather than normal shoes, but here you can see them.

Market Scene, Ecce Homo, the Flagellation and the Carrying of the Cross, 1561

Finally! A more involved scene! As is not uncommon in these paintings, we have a perfectly normal scene in the front, morphing to a religious one in the background, with the clothing changing likewise.
We have a few interesting extra things of note, including many veggies, a street-seller with a tray (and a wicker bottle cover), horse tack (some fanciful, some practical), a sledge, and once again those oblong loaves with crescent markings.

Red, domed thrum hat. With a pair of odd looking feathers in the front, Ottoman-wise.
Tan jerkin with short sleeves to the bicep. This appears to be moderately loose fitted. No signs of gathering at the armscye or skirts. The garment is mid thigh length.
Red doublet under, visible only with sleeves. Sleeves are reasonably fitted, and show signs of a slit at the hindarm wrist.
Dirty white apron, corners hanging per norm.
Light Grey hosen.
He has a clearly slab hilted knife hanging from a narrow black belt, and a wide D framed purse. He may also have a satchel, based on the band crosswise over shoulder, but it is not visible.

2, Veggie Leaner

All Red upper garment is the only thing visible. It appear to have moderate sleeves with a little easing of the sleevehead, and possibly be double breasted.

3, Egg seller

Tan shallow thrum hat.
Red, short sleeved, crossfront jerkin. Not double breasted, but the variety which would have a V neck and just fasten at the hip.
Light Blue doublet, based on sleeves.
Dark Green full hosen.

4, Egg Seller 2

Broad brimmed red hat. Likely felted, not knit.
Mouse grey crossover jerkin. Only appears to have a small sleeve cap, and the skirts are quite short although gathered. The length is uneven, but generally around hip length.
Greenish black doublet.
Grey Trousers. You can clearly see they are gathered into the waistband and have no codpiece--his shirt is showing at the front rise.
He is carrying two baskets of eggs, one on the cane-like object we saw in several of the fish market paintings.
Terrible fashion...hate it. And fix your posture, dude.

6, Wheel Climber (yes, apparently I can't reliably count to five)

Oddball Blue hat. it is shaped like a simple dome, but with a possibly buttoned strap over the top.
Off white doublet. The fit is quite close, comparatively...you can see his scapula through it.
Green trousers. You can clearly see here that they are moderately gathered around the whole waistband. The waist is high, rise close, and the cut causes some good drape below the knee.

7, Horse sitter

Green thrum hat, tall, with a fairly flat top.
Green jerkin, loosely hit and with bicep length sleeves. There is no sign of a cut on skirt or gathering at sleevehead.
Peach doublet.
Dirty white...apron? Apron is my guess. All we can see is folds of cloth laying over his thighs.
Slate blue full hosen.
Note the horse appears to have blinders on.

8, in the wagon

Red, shallow, shapeless coif-like cap.
Black cape slung over one shoulder.
Red jerkin with close fit and short sleeves
Dark blue/black doublet.
Blue/black hosen

Red hat. This thing is funky, and almost shaped like an ushanka
Blue/grey doublet of close hit. There is some extra length to the sleeves but not width.
Tan trousers. Interestingly, the visible leg has a pale blue stripe down the outer leg and around the thigh. The other leg shows no sign of the horizontal stripe. The fit is good, and shows slight gathering at the waist. Legs are moderately full.
Dagger at the back belt, and...buckler?

10, Street seller

Small flat cap type headwear in black. Sitting more like a fascinater than a real hat.
Light green jerkin with bicep length sleeves. There appears to be a little fullness to the skirts, which are thigh length. Off white doublet under.
Red full hose, well fitted.

11, Rider

Black broad brimmed hat, appearing somewhat fuzzy.
Red jerkin/jacket with short sleeves. These are a little longer than typical, reaching almost to the elbow. Skirts are to the thigh, and body close.
Dark blue/black doublet
Dark blue/black hosen. Something appears to be going on just below the knee, but I cannot tell what.
Bollock dagger. Very nice.
Large D frame purse in tan leather.

12, Observer to the right

Broad brimmed but shallow topped hat in light blue/grey
Light blue jacket, of close fit and thigh length.
Grey doublet.
Grey hosen.
Bollock dagger at back belt.

13, Well climber

White shallow thrum hat.
Light yellow jacket, with close sleeves.
Grey doublet
White trousers. Again, quite regular gathers at the waist.. His pair are relatively short.

Reddish very shallow thrum hat.
Black doublet, of close but not great fit.
Red trousers, appearing to be very full, including in the front.

Red knit hat. Shaped roughly like a flowerpot.
Red jacket.
White Trousers

White knit cap, like a saggy flowerpt in shape.
Greenish (the background is all washed out) doublet. Something odd is going on at the back neck. The fit is close.
White trousers.
No shoes...unusual.

Market Scene with a Poultry Seller, 1560s

Once again, a single subject for this painting, the poultry seller. Other items of interest would be the lidded basket, the rear lady's snood thing, and that the frontal lady's apron does not have the corners hanging loose as in almost every other apron spotted (including the other in this painting).
A rabbit hole for cooks might be the eating of songbirds in this region...several of these paintings show some variety of pointlessly small bird held on a metal skewer.

Poultry seller

Black coat, thigh to knee length. The sleeves are moderately full, but do not show signs of gathering. It appears to be fastened with a single point at the breast.
White double breasted doublet.
White shirt. Unusually, and for the first time, it fairly clearly has a collar. The neckline isn't all that deep either.
Tan hosen. I hope they're hosen and he isn't bare legged...

Background guy with mustache

Red small thrum hat.
Green coat, slight gathering on sleeveheads, and narrow cuffs.

Marketplace with the flaggellation, the Ecce Homo and the bearing of the cross in the background

It took a bit of tracking down, as the name I had was the same as yesterday's painting, but I got it. Another full market scene, with biblical events happening in the background; I think it's interesting that the forescene of life is brightly coloured, but the biblical part is washed out with duller colours.
Features are, of course, a variety of produce and dead birds, plus what are likely dried/cured fishies, cheeses, and (probably) bread.
As relatively common, we have some horses with tack (including blinders), wagons, and a really fascinating wheelbarrow type thing. I kind want one...could be great for hauling stuff at event sites since it doesn't have sides. It would require wood bending, though.

1, Wait!

Red coif type cap.
Black light jacket, hip length and with square fit. The rear neckline is angular.
White shirt, showing at cuffs and neckline
Red trousers. As before, regular gathers are seen at the waist, and the legs are fairly straight.
Lovely little knife, hanging from a chain. It appears to have a ring pommel?

2, Dish buyer

Red Tudor style flat cap.
Grey outer garment. This could be one of two things; a long sleeved jacket, or a short sleeved jerkin over a similarly coloured doublet. I am leaning towards the latter, based on the textural and slight shade difference between the top of the arm and the lower sleeves. It appears to be thigh length, and front opening.
Grey doublet underneath. The sleeves are extra long and rucked.
Red hosen or trousers. Only a hint is visible above the knee.

3, Small child. Given the fine clothing and his pointing, he's probably symbolic of something.

Green outer garment with short sleeves and what may be a cut on skirt. There are visible gathers at the sleeveheads.
Red doublet
White full hosen.

Black broad brimmed hat; almost like a knit boater cap.
Grey jerkin. Short sleeved with slight gathers at the top. I believe there is a slight grown-on collar as well, almost a shawl collar.
Yellow doublet. I would guess double breasted given no front opening is visible.
Red full hosen.
White apron, interestingly with creases from folding still.
Loose narrow black belt.

Lovely bollock dagger with fairly small lopes, and four rivets visible at the buttplate.
Buff D frame purse.
A lead? is hanging over his shoulder. Something braided, with a leather reinforced loop on the visible end.

5, Creep

White fuzzy hat, flowpot shaped and with a dimple in the top.
Red double breasted jerkin. Sleeves are short and close, and hints of buttons are visible at the left shoulder.
Green doublet, sleeves only visible.
Grey hosen. Probably hosen, there is only a little draping at the visible knee.

6, Well Climber

Red almost turbanish hat. It is almost wider at the crown than the bottom, and appears to have flappies buttoned up over the top.
Green Jerkin, of close fit and short sleeves. It is barely thigh length.
Pink doublet, sleeves a bit long and rucked.
Red trousers
Tan shoes.

7, Post hanger?

Black doublet. There could be a waistcoat and doublet here, but I suspect the grey and black hues are due to lighting/shading.
Yellow trousers. These are very full, and have weird extra folds around the waist which are so not flattering.

12, Good view

Faded red upper garment, closely fit and thigh length.
Dark Blue trousers.

8, Basket carrier

Red knit hat of flowerpot shape with a dimple in the top.
Black jerkin.
Red doublet
Red trousers.

9, Horse sitter.

Black low thrum hat, with a brim slightly upturned
Buff jerkin, with quite short sleeves and a very short skirt which has weird extensions at the hip.
Black jacket underneath, thigh length
Grey hosen.

That odd hat again, with the flappies buttoned up top.
Yellow doublet. Sleeves are close, and there is a decidedly weird extra fold of cloth behind/under the arm. I'm picturing that it's a crossover front and open so the extra fabric kicks back, but could be wrong.
Red trousers. There appears to be a cross on one thigh, although this may just be symbolism rather than trim. The seat is fitted fairly well, and gathers at the waist are visible.

Black floppy cap.
Grey...garment. Okay, this is weird and I don't know what I'm looking at.

Option one is three layers; light grey, slightly darker short sleeve jerkin, and light grey sleeveless double breasted jerkin.
Option Two; The latter two, and pin on sleeves.
Option Three, Lighting is messing with us--I doubt it given the clear distinction at the sleeves.
Four; Light doublet, darker short sleeve jerkin, apron with an actual front--which I've never seen before.
Five; short sleeve version of the weirdly double breasted jacket seen in Bruegel Younger's The Marriage Procession, and Mealtime in the country, with a standard apron, and grey doublet. + Lighting issues.

Red hosen.

Market with Ecce Homo, 1565

Some cool things going on here, I think. One specific note is that at least two of the ladies have what appear to be clay braziers under their skirts for warmth. The one at the forefront is wearing clogs of the mule type (leather upper, heel not covered). There are a couple of Germans/Landsknecht, one with a drum and both with thrum hats. He have a donkey/mule? drawing a sledge which a young woman looks like whe's about to fall off of.
LEMONS
Finally, adequate documentation of thrum hats other than red...I need more yarn.

1, Poultry wielder

Green jacket, with squared neckline. I am thinking it's double breasted. The sleeves are relatively close, but are still gathered into the armscye.
White shirt.
Red trousers...extremely full ones.
Black stockings or hosen under
Clogs!

Faded black broad brim felt hat, with a flat crown.
Red doublet with fairly close fit. There are signs of easing the sleevehead into the armscye, but not quite full gathers. I believe it has a slight collar.
Dark green trousers, high water.
Black shoes, low and slip on.
White apron
At the ground is the same type of mystery lead I spotted in the last painting...attached to the sledge.

3, Butcher

Red broad brimmed hat of unknown form.
Green doublet.
White apron

Red, somewhat floppy hat.
Red outer garment has a very square neckline, and short sleeves. I suspect there is a double breasted plackert. The skirts may be cut on, based on the drape.
White doublet.
Ballock dagger at front waist.

5, dancer in the background. He is quite faded as background

Reddish broad brimmed hat.
Green short sleeve jacket. It is fastened only at the breast (presumably with a point) and hanging open below.
Reddish doublet
Reddish trousers.
Blue apron?
Messer

6, with pet chicken

Black Monmouth style hat with short thrums; tall crown and short brim
Green short sleeve jacket, fastened only at the top.
Reddish doublet
Black full hosen.

White thrum hat, beehive shape
Red doublet.
Black trousers, I think.

Blueish and fairly shapeless hat. Wide brim turned up, and dimple in the top.
Grey doublet.
Green trousers.
Knife hanging low on right hip.

9, child

Lower white thrum hat
Pale blue/white doublet.
There is an odd extra layer here, pointing down the back.
Red trousers

10, Child

Green short sleeve jacket.
Grey doublet
Blue trousers.

11, Climber

Green thrum hat!
Blue doublet
Yellow trousers
Clearly not wearing socks/stocking/whatever.
Knife hanging loose at left hip.

12; I thought he was usable, but too dark

Black? doublet or jacket to the mid thigh
Brown trousers

13, Climbed

Green doublet
Red Trousers
What...garment...draped over his arm.
Knife is hanging quite loose at the hip

14; oddity and will not be included except for his hat.

White thrum hat
Pale pink or tan doublet. Or bare backed?
Yellow...something...at hip level.
Lower legs covered in blue.
Red stockings?

Miraculous Drought of Fishes 1563

While a religious painting, again, the majority of the clothing is normal in appearance. We have a great many of those checked aprons, including showing the back.
Also visible is a sledge being drawn by a horse, and you can see the shoeing on said horse.
I think it really interesting that you can see the tan lines from the constant wearing of long sleeves at the wrists of several people.

Red doublet.
White, skirtlike garment with slight gathers at the waist. I suspect this is the apron we've seen on the majority of fishmongers.
Dark brown/black trousers.

Red waistcoat, with slight shawl collar. Armscye is close.
White shirt with sleeves rolled to above elbows.
Dark green trousers.

Red pillbox type cap
White waistcoat of close fit.
Yellow doublet, or pinned on sleeves. Given the slightly different white showing at the shoulder, I suspect they're sleeves.
Dark brown skirt/apron
Black hosen?

White beehive hat.
Light grey doublet with narrow sleeves. You can see that the hindcollar may be cut on.
White, chequed (lighter white), apron gathered at the waist. I believe I see a seam or slight overlap at the back.
Red trousers

Medium grey jerkin, sleeves halfway to the elbow.
Red doublet
Yellow checked apron with a floral design? Most odd.
Grey trousers.

Red cap with no brim. Doesn't appear to fit, either.
Greenish black jerkin. Short sleeved, thigh length, and with a V neck.
Yellow doublet
Off white hosen.

7, Drover

Tan Wide brimmed hat, with low dimpled top.
Tan jerkin, of only waist length.
White doublet showing tan lines at the wrist.
Red full hosen.
Mule type shoes--i.e. slippers

Red, poorly fit and lumpy cap with small ear flaps.
Yellow jerkin, possibly crossover front.
Dirty white doublet, sleeves only visible.
White full hosen.
Messer?

Red beehive hat.
Dark brown jerkin, very sort sleeves. Nothing lower than the chest is visible.
Red doublet.

Broad brimmed white hat with small flat crown.
Red jerkin, probably longer in length, and with fairly short sleeves.
Green doublet.

10, Back to the boat

Whiteish tan outer garment. This has a fairly close fit to the body, sleeves, and skirts, but there is some extra fullness in the skirts.
Normal white apron, albeit short.
White leg garments, type not visible.

Poultry Market, 1564

Only one dude visible, but we do have some lovely jugs and cheeses, plus two sets of ladies.

1, Poultry seller

Green waistcoat, with slight collar. Only waist length and with just sleevecaps.
Dusty rose? waistcoat, probably double breasted given the lack of front opening. Sleeves are a bit long, and tucked, but narrow.
Red trousers. You can see the gathers at the waist are at venter front as well.
Loose narrow black belt, which really just appears to be tied on? Additionally, lovely little knife with a roseate pommel plate.

The Poultry Sellers, 1564

Like yesterday, we only have one subject. I would point out the really wide straw hat on one lady, however, and the other lady's headdress as well.
Other details include pottery and baskets.

1, Poultry seller

Red thrum hat, low and closely fit. I would note that the thrums are fairly short, and do not look particularly dreadlock-ey.
Black short jerkin. This appears to have sleeve-caps or wings, possibly with diagonal slashing and no sleeves. Based on the folds, I believe this is a crossover front, and there is some patterning oddities going on at the back; it looks almost like there is a slight skirt, but it's folded up somehow.
Doublet is...reddish-yellow. I don't know what colour to call it, as it's mottled. Will not be included in colour survey.
White shirt
Red trousers, extremely full.
White cloth stockings, netherstocks, or hosen underneath.
Black shoes. These are slip ons with a low upper at the heel. You can see the construction of the sole, which appears to be fairly standard welted construction with 1-2 layers of sole leather, plus one more at the heel.

The Vegetable Seller, 1570

More baskets and wicker platters, and veggies! We appear to have a variety of fruits, including blueberries and currents, there are parsnips, savoied cabbage, lettuce, and cucumbers.

1, Vegetable seller

Yellow thrummed hat, of close shape.
Red waistcoat, with square fit, no sleeves, and a small collar.
Grey doublet, no visible front opening.
Grey trousers.
Around his neck is a double lobed drawstring coin purse (or two purses on the same string?)

The Vegetable Market 1567

Bonus...two outfits to look at! As always, there is a plethura of baskets for the basketweavers out there, and a lady with a dressed distaff of what appears to be flax. There's a whole bunch of different vegetables, as one would expect, including red head lettuce or cabbages, a variety of melons, and--exciting to me, mushrooms! We have fairly standard agaricus button mushrooms at the bottom of the painting, and possibly another type in the basket at the top left. I'm not sure what a couple of the green things are, like in the lady's basket, and above it (filberts in husk?).

1, bird seller

Black felt broad brim hat. In a narrow hatband is some sort of badge.
Red jacket, with a slight grown on collar, and slight gathers to the normal sized sleeves. It appears to be hip length.
He may be wearing another red layer underneath.
Brown trousers.
White apron.

2, Older guy

Red broad brim hat, slightly fuzzy and with a tall flat crown.
Green jacket. It has a slight grown on collar, close sleeves with some gathers, and slits at the cuffs.
Brown doublet.
White apron. You can clearly see the tie.

3, Background by well.

Yellow jacket, with deep V neck
Red doublet
White Apron
Green hosen.

Woman Selling Vegetables

One dude, most of his clothing not visible, and one lady, who appears to have a brazier under her skirts again. Whole bunch of fruit and veggies again, dead things, and those loaves of something.
Her hairstyle may be of interest, appearing to be braided and stitched.

Wide brim straw hat.
Black jerkin. Only waist length and with no sleeves, but maybe with a slight collar.
Red doublet, which moderate fitted and with a heavily gathered sleevehead. Based on the drape of the sleeve, I think they're straight cut in one piece, and may have the seam underarm (or seam not shown by painter, which is more likely).

Village Feast; I need a higher resolution copy to do the work. The peasants are all in the background and faded out. If you find you, let me know, and I'll update.

© John Frey, 2024. The Author of this work retains full copyright for this material. Permission is granted to make and distribute verbatim copies of this document for non-commercial private research or educational purposes provided the copyright notice and this permission notice are preserved on all copies

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Sunday, April 7, 2024

Peasant Fashion in the Low Countries: Stage 2. Joachim Beuckelaer

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