HSM 2018...plots and thoughts

It almost didn't happen--but the denizens of the Facebook group prodded us (the Moderators) until the ball got rolling...then it kinda happened by itself, and we just had to organize.  And finalize descriptions, which was actually kinda tricky.  But we did it, and so there will be another year...and hopefully many more, so long as participants remain excited.

Enough of that...  For my few readers who are not familiar with it, the Historical Sew Monthly is a series of sewing challenges or prompts for Historical Costuming, which you have to finish (NOT start) within two months of the deadline.  You can participate in many, or only manage a couple!  For more information, go to the Dreamstress' overview/sign up page. 

Pinterest for the Researcher

First Published in the Oerthan Chronical, 10-17.

Disclaimer: My focus is historical costuming, and I research most periods, not just pre-1600….and there are a lot more post 1680s extant pieces in museums.  But I will try to keep this as general as I can.  Hopefully these hints help!

Figure 1

Many people say to stay away from using Pinterest as a resource for your research.  Obviously, since I’m writing an article on it, I feel somewhat differently; it /can/ be used as a useful source of information…if utilized correctly.  So I composed this batch of advice, which should help keep you from the dreaded Pinterest – Tumblr loop.  However, it basically boils down to…:

Another project Roundup? About time!

It's been a couple months since the last time posted a Project roundup of what I've been working on....I have been working on projects, just not a whole lot which is particularly interesting, since there was a lot of repeating.

Mainly, I've had two primary projects, and one secondary; the Patchwork Paletot, which is a fur lined overcoat matching my Franken-frockcoat; the trunkhose for the Hasting's Suit; and a not particularly historical waistcoat (secondary).  I haven't done any writing, and little researching, except for tidbits as needed on current or dreamed up projects.  Bad me, I know....I've been busy with other things.

But wait!!  There's apparently more...those are just the projects most recently to mind.  I had one or two other research lines in there somewhere, and I forgot that I made a good portion of my openwork shirt during the month post Coronet.

Post Coronet Project Roundup

I've been working on a few things in the last month...a couple of new projects, and one which I'm plugging away slowly at.

The highlight was I decided to make a pair of test trunkhose, in a bias cut, striped velvet--the same one my Brunswick doublet is made from, as I intended to wear it with that doublet.  The result?  Stripes...in multiple directions.

But first...

 With the buying of sole bend, and the gift of some hobnails, I decided I wanted to try making a pair of Caliga...Roman military sandals/boots.  I found that drafting was not remotely difficult...essentially trace a sole slightly smaller than the outline of your foot, measure up on the back to the desired height, then add straps; four small ones on the outside, and three on the inside.

The Nauseatingly Stripy Trunkhose

This project is a pair of trunkhose, similar in style to those of the late 1560s, made of the same fabric and to wear with the same doublet as in the Brunswick suit.  The design is fairly general, not based on any one particular example, but is closest to one in the French rapier manual by Sainct Didier.  Because this particular project was intended more as a trial run, I am not worrying about documenting everything.

 

Stolen: Dwarven Vest?

Nope…it’s a 16^th century Irish inar.  While the garment appears to be too small to modern eyes, the fit is actually just right…for the style.  The inar was the “outer” garment of the Wild Irishman outfit, and was worn over the loose,tunic-like leine.  To the best that I can tell, the garment is unique to the culture.

Garment Description:

The inar is a short vest or jacketlike garment, most likely made of wool.  It is slightly fitted (primitively), has rudimentary sleeves, and a separate skirt (which is also short).  Did I mention the garment is short?  It comes to maybe hip length, with the waist seam somewhere around the sternum.  The neckline comes down almost to the sternum as well.  As such, it is a somewhat odd-looking piece of clothing, especially being worn over the extremely loose and bloused leine. 

Project Roundup: More Irish stuff, yet another waistcoat, and dyeing

I haven't been sewing as much as I would like...for some reason, I've been more tired than usual, and it effected my motivation.  Plus, my major project was on hold until I managed to dye the silk then buy materials.  Excuses, I know.  But this will probably be fairly short.

Like before, they should be in more or less chronological order...

When I last posted a Project Roundup (my term for my "dress diary" posts, I had just finished my handsewn Irish leine...this meant that I needed to make the inar to go over it.

Image is a closeup of a Durer drawing.

The Inar.  For reference, the inar is a short, jacket like garment made of wool, and with a short, pleated skirt.  If it seems like I am stressing the word short...that's because the entire garment barely comes to my waist.

Whose sleives hang trailing down Almost unto the shoe: the 16th Century Irish Leine

This project has been a long time coming; many (relatively) years ago, I wrote an article on 16th century clothing---my first serious research article, in fact.  It is only now that I have actually gotten around to making a suit of Wild Irish clothing, consisting of the leine and inar, as well as the shaggy brat.

The Project: 

This piece of documentation discusses bottom layer of the 16^th century project….the leine.

The leine--a word translating now as shirt--appears essentially as a linen tunic, almost universally "saffron yellow", although lady's versions do appear in white, and I suspect that the lower classes might make due with natural coloured linen (ranging in colour from blue-grey to a lighter yellow[i]--I will discuss this more later).  For both sexes, pendulous or bagpipe style sleeves were the norm, as was the use of massive quantities of linen cloth.  Men, at least, wore theirs bloused over a belt, to bring the garment to knee length.

Project roundup: Leine, waistcoats, and...stuff

So, I kind of promised that I would work on dress diaries more often...obviously, since my last blog post was over a month ago, I slacked.  Shame on me, I know.

But, here it goes.  In the last month or so, I've been working on three major projects, plus some others; testing my glove drafting (which I later taught a class on, and will write a post on later) with a trial pair in upcycled leather, sewing on the 16th century Irish Leine, and both developing a house waistcoat pattern for myself and making the first piece from it.

The photos are in approximately chronological order, and jump between projects...so pay attention:

To start, gloves.  Since I've been playing with 1560-70s Northern Europe, I wanted to work on a pattern that would be appropriate to that....it was both easier, and more challenging than I expected.  Actually drafting them wasn't that difficult...finding examples from the correct period which show any detail was.  Still, I managed, even if I'm still not certain of whether there should be a gusset into the thumb.

Plotting the Next Major Project...another 1570s Suit

So, shortly after being asked to join the Laurels in the SCA a touch over two months ago at Oerthan Winter Coronet* I decided that I needed to attempt a real masterwork project for my elevation.  My last major project, the Brunswick Germans was decent...a good trial run of techniques and getting me closer to my goal of a tailored period court suit, but not an attempted masterwork--if not the use of machine stitching, the choices of non-period fabrics was a bar to that in my mind.  But now, I can actually afford the good fabrics to do it right, rather than working primarily from stash.

So, I decided to poke around, and see what I could find for inspiration.  This was somewhat complicated by wanting to find something I could/would actually wear, but other than the Germans I have been playing with.  Eventually, I ran across a certain portrait--one Sir Edward Hastings at the age of 29, in 1573.  It is absolutely gorgeous, and I will probably do a Featured Garment post on it sooner rather than later.

ART UK 597951

Fly-by-Night Airship Jacket: Putting it together

Alright....this is part two of my posts on the Steampunk jacket, dubbed the "Fly-by-night" (no idea  why) Airship jacket.  Or, just airship jacket.  It was inspired by several things, the late Victorian military tunic or jacket, a particular image of Colonel Mostery (a Victorian era swordsman and fighter), and probably a couple other things I can't remember.

Part I, roughly covering the drafting, can be found HERE.

For those who haven't been following along on the Matsukaze Workshops FB page (which you totally should!), this project took much longer than it should have--a full year due to several setbacks.  Trouble sourcing enough nice buttons for a reasonable price (since I needed around 40 matching buttons!), lack of sleeve then lining materials (I later found my lining material in a pile of stuff), running out of leather dye....  And of course, because it is a steampunk project rather than a historical one, it was lower on the priority list--so it didn't get worked on as much.

The Other Next Project; Wild Irish

I'm also starting another project this week--just waiting on thread.  I've been planning it for quite a while...even bought the fabric almost a year ago.

 And that is: 16th Century Wild Irish.  I figured it is time, especially since I wrote the article on 16th century Irish clothing more than a few years ago.  The outfit is really quite simple; the basis is the leine of golden yellow linen, the inar of red wool, and that is essentially all.  A fringed woolen brat is also a requirement, but I made mine a good 4.5 years ago (and use it every day).  No shoes, pants, or hat required.

Fly-by-night Lancer's Tunic: Drafting

My latest harebrained scheme--a steampunk jacket in the form of a late Victorian Lancer's Tunic.  Now, there isn't much of a difference from drafting a body coat of the same system, but there are some.  Therefore, I decided to throw together a rough tutorial (images probably won't be the best) of the cutting system.

As mentioned, the tutorial is somewhat rough, and missing a few steps for the pictures--apologies for that.  But since the project is now finished, I decided I should probably publish what I have.

The system is roughly the same as that for my Frock Coat drafting tutorial--same author and company, but for military tunics.  I do recommend reading the Frock Coat Tutorial first, before continuing.--just for clarity.

HSM Inspirations: Outdoors

Since the Outdoors Challenge is one I particularly wanted to see in the challenge list this year, I figured I should do the inspiration post as well. 

The Challenge is specifically The Great Outdoors - Get out into the weather and dirt with an item for outdoor pursuits.  When I began searching for examples, I found a slight issue...there really isn't outdoors specific clothing for pre-1600s or so.  Other than outermost garments for protection from the elements, it was the same as any other clothing--likely because people did tend to spend more time outdoors.

What that means, is that it should be quite easy to find something which qualifies; it could be for an activity specific outfit or garment as for riding/hunting, swimming, playing in the snow, walking, or cycling.  Alternatively, you could go the other, much more generalized route by making something simple which is meant to get dirty (or again, keep you warm.  I'm in the middle of winter here, and somewhat focused on warmth....) while you work outside. 

Looking Back: Two Years

That's right...this blog has been active (ish) for two years today.  Yeah, I started it on Valentines day--must have been bored.  So, I suppose this calls for me to write something.

Which, since you're reading this, I obviously have.  Anyways.  It has been a somewhat long two years of writing, and I never did manage to publish as often as I would have liked. Even so, this is my 103rd post--making the average just under 1 post a week.  The problem is...that is the average.  I tend to go several weeks (months) without posting, then suddenly get the urge to write and publish a bunch of codependent articles all at once (*cough* the pluderhose tutorials).  I have been getting a bit better at that, at least.  Or was for a time.  Maybe I'll do better this year, but really need ideas for subjects to write about (so if you have ideas, go ahead and let me know in the comments).

Norlund 78 Hood.

1570s Brunswick Man: The Overview of a Year's Journey

So...this is it.  The final post on the projects I've been working on for the last year--the 1570s Germans.  It has been a long journey, full of working on new and old skills, and on my writing skills--a full ten posts have been published to cover the various steps, not including this one and the unpublished doublet drafting system.  In addition, each item was entered in a Historical Sew Monthly challenge over the course of the year.

The Final Piece...the Tall Hat

This is it...the last piece for my 1570s Germans suit.  And boy, am I happy it's finally done.  The hat itself was a fairly quick and simple project....but I have been working on the overall project for just under a year now.  Because it is the last piece (yay!) I was able to enter it into the first Historical Sew Monthly challenge of 2017--Firsts and Lasts.

The Project:

This is an extremely tall, woolen hat, similar in profile to several examples from the period of 1570s Germany, which is part of my full suit from the same period (well, of course).  Unlike quite a few later examples, and my last tall hat, the covering is not a gathered circle, but fits smoothly over the base.

HSM Special Occasion: A set of ruffs...almost...there!

As the title says, I'm almost there.  Almost done with the year long project of making a 1570s German suit--all that remains is the hat.

Christ Blessing, Surrounded by a Donor Family.  German Triptych.  1570s
Note the untidy ruff.

Bi-annual Sewing Review: July-January 2016

Not just sewing, either--I will probably touch on some of my favourite articles I've written and posted here as well.  My review for the first half of the year can be found HERE.  Still, I want to touch on a couple of my major projects from before July as well.

Wearing all handmade clothing (wool shirt, wool waistcoat, and the front fall trousers), and working on the doublet.  Photo by Mercedes Houlton.

Aaand I present the 1750s Banyan Documentation. ...Finally.

This has been coming for a while, but I needed to finish (...or write, period) the third post on making the blasted  thing.  But here it is...the documentation for my 1760s banyan, which I shoehorned into the HSM Red challenge (yes, the garment is blue...but there is apparently enough red on it to count).