Monday, July 17, 2017

Post Coronet Project Roundup

I've been working on a few things in the last month...a couple of new projects, and one which I'm plugging away slowly at.

The highlight was I decided to make a pair of test trunkhose, in a bias cut, striped velvet--the same one my Brunswick doublet is made from, as I intended to wear it with that doublet.  The result? multiple directions.

But first...
 With the buying of sole bend, and the gift of some hobnails, I decided I wanted to try making a pair of Caliga...Roman military sandals/boots.  I found that drafting was not remotely difficult...essentially trace a sole slightly smaller than the outline of your foot, measure up on the back to the desired height, then add straps; four small ones on the outside, and three on the inside.

Sadly, this is as far as I got...although I have perfect sole bend, all the cutwork of the top requires a heavier leather than I have...something around 8oz veg tan will be perfect. 

From Sainct Didier's book of the single sword...this is a warning of what is to come.

Using the trunkhose pattern I drafted in  the last month, I cut out the pieces.  On the bias and two pieces per leg.

My first time cartridge pleating...I had to do some research, and found that yes, padding is almost always required for the pleats.  The turn under of the fashion fabric should be considerably more, though.

I wanted pockets for this outfit...big ones, as you'll see.  Some research (PoF3, primarily) showed me that the pockets were typically free hanging, rather than sewn into the sideseam fully.

 While I didn't get as much poof as I desired, the cartridge pleating worked perfectly, and fitted the waistband correctly.
I got a new book!  Purses in Pieces, which covers various purse/pouch designs from late medieval and renaissance Netherlands.

 Busily sewing the lining into place on the trunkhose.

 The parts of the codpiece.  Base gusset, top base, and the sticky-outy bit.  I did an impromtu FB live feed of my drafting it.

I did complete--and even finish the documentation for--the trunkhose.  The documentation can be found HERE, and photos of it being worn at Summer Coronet are below.

 I briefly worked on the shirt.  I am not really enjoying this project, for some reason...  It's not hard, I'm just procraftinating.

With my book in hand, I decided on what I wanted to attempt to make for the Prince's Whim competition (with only 5 days to go).  The competition was belt pouches, and I decided on a late 14th century girdle pouch.

The materials are about 3oz Veg tan leather, and a pigskin upcycled from the same coat as my Airship Jacket, and I am handsewing with linen thread.

 I wanted there to be two compartments, plus two pouchlets.  Here, I was working out the pattern for the overlay, which supports said pouchlets. 

This project required an old friend to glue stuff in place while I sewed...wheat paste, from Marc Carlson's recipe (1 cup water, 1/4 cup flour, 1/16th tsp salt.  Boil).  I heated and boiled it until it was a thick, globby mess, and used my fingers to spread it on where I needed to glue the leather.  It is a mild, water soluble adhesive, perfect for holding pieces in place while you sew.

 I did glue the cover in place, but used paperclips to hold the front and back of the back pouch in place for sewing.

Then it had to be turned...this is as far as I got, since my iron oxide dye wasn't ready.

 I did promise you photos...these are all taken by Halfdan "Twobears" Ozurerson.

Fighting in it, as intended.

 And a back shot.  Yes, I did get a number of comments about needing to make a matching has been added to the project list--probably just a plain black one.

 Pockets!  Just standing, nonchalantly.

 Wait...what's this?!
There's a bottle of wine in my pants!

Aaand lounging.

© John Frey, 2017. The Author of this work retains full copyright for this material. Permission is granted to make and distribute verbatim copies of this document for non-commercial private research or educational purposes provided the copyright notice and this permission notice are preserved on all copies.  The action and glamour shots are ©Travis Abe-Thomas.


  1. You've become quite the amazing man.

    1. Thank you, Grand-don. So much further to go before I am at the level I want.