Showing posts with label Elizabethan. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Elizabethan. Show all posts

Monday, July 1, 2024

A Common Man's Doublet

©Travis Abe-Thomas, June 2024

Finally!  I actually finished another project, and in time to debut the suit at the second ever West Kingdom Crown hosted by Oertha.  This is the white hemp canvas doublet I have been plugging away at for the last two years, to be paired with the black wool round hose as a "working" suit which would age and develop what we're going to call "character"...also known as stains and hopefully wear patterns.

When designing the project, I knew I wanted a fairly simple outfit from the end of Elizabeth's reign--round hose, and a fairly plain doublet.  As working class people aren't the most popular subject for art (unless accompanied by quaint villages and beautiful scenery as in my Low Countries Research), I eventually found what I was looking for in Samuel Pepys's Cries of London.  

Saturday, July 22, 2023

A Procrastinated Pair of Round Hose

    Some years ago, in the Pre-Covid times, I decided I wanted to make a plain suit of Elizabethans.  Something from the very end of Elizabeth's reign, and suitable for working in; setting up tents, fighting, maybe some hiking, sitting in the tavern, etc.  A suit of late period clothing where getting it dirty would only add to the character of the garments rather than spoiling them.  In the end, I settled on a suit of round hose in wool broadcloth, and a doublet in another broadcloth or hemp/linen canvas.  While the doublet is still in the works (but is actually being worked on!), I actually finished the round hose over a year ago; I just haven't had any motivation to write (acquiring a new, functional computer helped a bit, but that was purchased *mumble* months ago...).  Wish me luck on this...I'm well out of practice on writing at all, never mind project documentation; thankfully, I took a fair amount of notes...but not enough.

    The hose are, as said, made in common man's cloths and suitable for the tail end of the 1500s and into the 1600s..  Finding exemplars was more difficult than the norm for this period, as working class people aren't particularly popular subjects of paintings, and I additionally had a particular look in my head.  In the end, the Samuel Pepys's Cries of London was a major resource and inspiration for both the hose and doublet forms.

    The Cries of London is a particular genre of artwork which often dealt with the lower classes of various cities (e.g London, Bologna).  The term allegedly comes from the "Cries" or calls of the various traders as they tried to attract customers [Payne, abstract].  In the case of the examples collected by Samuel Pepys, the collection we know as gathered up to 100 years after publishing.  The actual artist of these is unknown, as is the original date, although based on fashion style I estimate this example is from last quarter of the 16th century.

From Spitalfields Life Blog

Thursday, August 29, 2019

A Work-a-Day Elizabethan Shirt

Well...mostly work a day.  This project was intended to be just a shirt to wear under my late period wear; one which does /not/ have silk insertion seams as the last shirt I made does.  Even though the silk sewn shirt is fairly heavy and should be durable, my brain won't let me abuse and get it dirty as I probably will with this one.   This project was completed a good six months ago, and took about nine months of procrastinating to finish--there is a certain amount of guesswork since I wasn't doing a good job of journaling my projects during that time.

Wearing the pluderhose from my Brunswick Suit for the photos.

Thursday, October 5, 2017

Another project Roundup? About time!

It's been a couple months since the last time posted a Project roundup of what I've been working on....I have been working on projects, just not a whole lot which is particularly interesting, since there was a lot of repeating.

Mainly, I've had two primary projects, and one secondary; the Patchwork Paletot, which is a fur lined overcoat matching my Franken-frockcoat; the trunkhose for the Hasting's Suit; and a not particularly historical waistcoat (secondary).  I haven't done any writing, and little researching, except for tidbits as needed on current or dreamed up projects.  Bad me, I know....I've been busy with other things.

But wait!!  There's apparently more...those are just the projects most recently to mind.  I had one or two other research lines in there somewhere, and I forgot that I made a good portion of my openwork shirt during the month post Coronet.

Monday, July 17, 2017

Post Coronet Project Roundup

I've been working on a few things in the last month...a couple of new projects, and one which I'm plugging away slowly at.

The highlight was I decided to make a pair of test trunkhose, in a bias cut, striped velvet--the same one my Brunswick doublet is made from, as I intended to wear it with that doublet.  The result?  Stripes...in multiple directions.

But first...
 With the buying of sole bend, and the gift of some hobnails, I decided I wanted to try making a pair of Caliga...Roman military sandals/boots.  I found that drafting was not remotely difficult...essentially trace a sole slightly smaller than the outline of your foot, measure up on the back to the desired height, then add straps; four small ones on the outside, and three on the inside.

Wednesday, July 12, 2017

The Nauseatingly Stripy Trunkhose



This project is a pair of trunkhose, similar in style to those of the late 1560s, made of the same fabric and to wear with the same doublet as in the Brunswick suit.  The design is fairly general, not based on any one particular example, but is closest to one in the French rapier manual by Sainct Didier.  Because this particular project was intended more as a trial run, I am not worrying about documenting everything.

 

Thursday, July 9, 2015

Research Dump, No 8


Included in this edition are several links on 16th century clothing, a couple of treatises from the same period, Romani and Chinese clothings, and numerous other subjects.





Notes and Illustrations on Regency Clothing Styles

(I should note that it naturally only covers women's clothing)
http://www.pemberley.com/janeinfo/ppbrokil.html


Women's Dress and  Dance of the 16th Century Ottoman Empire
http://wiesenfeuer.ansteorra.org/links/artsandsciences/compilations/kajiracamber/Women%20and%20Dancers%20of%20the%2016th%20Century%20Ottoman%20Empire.pdf


Early 16th Century German Peasant Clothing
Some decent information, but I definitely do NOT agree with some of the author's suggestions on recreating it easily.
https://amiesparrow.files.wordpress.com/2014/06/early-16th-century-german-peasant-clothing.pdf 


Elizabethan House - Robert and Laura Mellin: Clothing and Accessories
A basic overview of Elizabethan clothing.
http://traynedbandes.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/2-Elizabethan-House-Clothing-and-Accessories.docx.pdf 


Grisone, Federico:Künstlicher Bericht, ... wie die streitbaren Pferd ... vollkommen zu machen 
A German Horsemanship treatise from the end of the 16th Century.  Specifically regarding hard to break horses.
http://bildsuche.digitale-sammlungen.de/index.html?c=viewer&bandnummer=bsb00084455&pimage=00001&v=100&nav&l=de