Bibliography of Historical Tailoring and Cutting Manuals

To the best of my knowledge, there is no place online that gathers the various--freely available--Victorian and earlier cutting systems.  Professional tailors--and cutters, which is a separate job, often in the same shop--use cutting systems rather than actual patterns.  The main difference, of course is in fit and style--a pattern may come graded to a number of sizes, but these are still ideal and won't necessarily fit; cutting systems, on the other hand, use scales and mathematics to give proportions and how to draft for the body of the customer.  They typically also have notes on modifying the draft for varying postures and such.  The majority of the systems were for menswear, and that is my focus--however, there were variations for tailored ladies' clothing as well, and I will include those that I find.

From E. Dilday's Plain and Concise Method of Garment Cutting, 1856

Documentation: A Bibliography and Bonus Outline

Some time ago, I found that people didn't realize that there are resources out there on writing documentation, either for competition (which is the general focus) or just because you're interested in it.

I am not going to tell what is required--a number of articles have already been written, by people with more experience than I.  However, I will give my thoughts each of the various articles; plus, below the links there will be my personal outline, which I use to ensure I don't forget anything. 

Bliaut Bibliography

I decided (more or less randomly) to throw this bibliography on the bliaut together from the various links I had, plus a look for new ones.  

The bliaut appears in the 12th Century as the most common main layer of clothing in Western Europe.  As a general rule, it is close fitting in the torso, has sleeves with varying degrees of pendulous cuffs, and may or may not have horizontal wrinkles at the waist.  The neckline is usually a keyhole or slit.

 

Bliauts, Broad Skirts and Belled Sleeves: making the court dress of 12th century Western Europe

http://www.scribd.com/doc/35248635/Bliauts-Broad-Skirts-and-Belled-Sleeves-making-the-court-dress-of-12th-century-Western-Europe

As far as I am concerned, this is the best article on the subject of bliauts.  It gives an introduction, as well as patterns, variations of the style, and a look at contemporary sources.  Has information on men’s clothing as well as ladies.

Re-enactment Craft Groups on Facebook.

For you textile geeks and sewers out there who regularly use Facebook, I want to share this listing of groups dedicated to recreating various crafts (mostly clothing focused).  I am quite sure there are a number of groups out there that I have missed.  Links do not open in a new window.

UPDATED: 4-14-15
UPDATED: 5-24-16

~~~Clothing groups, Specific Cultures.

Irish Clothing Bibliography: Inaugural Post

As my "inaugural" post, being as I do not have the time at the moment to write up what I would like (build notes for my recent Frock Coat), I have decided to publish the Irish Clothing bibliography I put together some time ago, after seeing many people ask about the subject (mostly on the SCA_Garb pages).

In addition to the links below, I would like to add this image, which is the style I personally use for my early Irish Leine, introspective of neckline styles and exact sleeve length (I prefer close to the wrist and extra long).