Wednesday, November 28, 2018

Peasant Fashion in the Low Countries: Stage Two. Hieronymus Bosch

Yes, that Hieronymus Bosch.  Most of his work is not of any kind of use for this project, but two paintings are noted down as not being suspect, one noted as a "maybe", and three which are suspect, but may still be of use.  So, thankfully, this should be a relatively short post.

Bosch was born 1450 and died 1516....rather earlier than most of the works in this survey.  He grew up and lived in the s-Hertogenbosch, in the Dutchy of Brabant (Southern Netherlands).  He moved to Oirschot around 1480--the region a bit south of his birthtown, by about 11 minutes (Latitude).


 Because of Bosch's allegorical style of paint, and his active dates, the majority of his works are outside the subject of this survey, so I will only be covering a few.  Again, I am covering only the clothing of male and peasant class.



  • Allegory of Gluttony and Lust.  1490-1500.  The painting is suspect, of course, but there are some hints.  https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Allegory_of_Gluttony_and_Lust
    •  The drunkard is wearing a conical hat, and pinkish hood.
      • Doublet is mid thigh length, brown, and front fastening with ties--points, possibly.  Sleeves are loose, but tight to the wrist.
      • Black hosen, and some kind of shoes.
    • Discarded on the ground is a hat shaped something like the pommel of a Western saddle, or a yo-yo.  This is on top of a black belt clearly showing a silvery buckle, which is centerbar and square., and a bollock dagger.  Some variety of clogs with leather uppers is also visible.

  •  Cutting the Stone.  1494+.  The patient undergoing surgery is worth looking at.  https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cutting_the_Stone
    •  Patient (poor bastard).
      • White doublet, not closely fitted.  The front is roughly laced (spiral) shut.  There appears to be a shot collar lined in blue.  Sleeves are quite poofy, and appear to have a separate cuff, or it narrows rather dramatically.  Many pairs of points to hold up the hosen are visible at the bottom hem, which is slightly longer than the hip socket.
      • Shirt is open necked, and only shows a little.  But the neckline doesn't appear to be that deep.
      • White underwear (or the shirt again) is slightly visible where the points are undone.
      • Hosen are red cloth with a modest (probably not stuffed) codpiece.  The points are tied in a single loop bow, red, and have aiglettes.
      • Black ankle high shoes.
      • His belt hanging on the chair is fairly wide, at least 1.5", and black.  The kidney shaped purse is lovely, and has silver crescent fittings on the flap and buckle.  A bollock dagger with a wide flaring pommel is also on there.
      • A pair of solid wooden clogs is peeking out from under the chair.

  • The Wayfarer/Peddler.  1500.  While overly grey, the clothing depicted doesn't trigger any warnings of weirdness.  https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Wayfarer#/media/File:Jheronimus_Bosch_-_The_Pedlar_-_Google_Art_Project.jpg
    •  Hat (in hand),  is more or less a shapeless bell, with what appears to be an awl stuck into it, with thread wrapped around.  The brim is turned up on one side.
    • Some kind of drapey hood thing.  I don't know.
    • Outer garment is front opening.  It doesn't appear to close other than a few buttons at the top (the buttonholes are also visible, and worked in black).  Sleeves are poofy, with a separately cut cuff.  I don't think they are gathered, just quite loose and eased into place.  It appears to come to just above the knee.
    • I believe he is wearing another garment underneath, in brown.  I am guessing by the lack of skirts that it is waist or hip length, and it clearly spiral laces up the front; the hose may be pointed to this one.
    • White shirt, loose, but not gathered.  Neckline isn't particularly deep.
    • His hosen may be without feet, or have stirrup straps.  You can't see many details, other than they go all the way up.
    • One shoe is ankle high, with a front opening closed by a buckle.  The other foot is covered by a slip on mule.
    • Knife is a bollock style hilt, but appears to be single edged.  Pommel is broadly flared with a metal cap, but flares quite suddenly (rather than along the whole length).  Sheath is suspended with a cord from the back...it may have a simple frog.
    • Purse appears to be a simple drawstring, suspended from the same cord as the knife.  I see four dangly strings off it, each with something silvery at the end.
    • Light stubble and short hair.




© John Frey, 2018. The Author of this work retains full copyright for this material. Permission is granted to make and distribute verbatim copies of this document for non-commercial private research or educational purposes provided the copyright notice and this permission notice are preserved on all copies.  The images in this document do not belong to me.

No comments:

Post a Comment