Installing a sleeve vent

One of the things I found when I went to make my first couple frock coats is that there roughly no tutorials on exactly how you put together the vent on a working suit sleeve.  So, during the process of stitchripping over a dozen assorted blazers for the Franken-frock project, I paid attention to how the sleeves were constructed.  I'm not saying this tutorial is the only way to do it--or even the right way--but it'll work.

    None of them had working buttons, of course, but the construction is close enough--the main difference is in the lining.

   

 Alright.  Your sleeve pieces should look approximately like this.  When you draft, you need to add enough length to double up on the vent.  If you didn't, you can always sew on a piece to be the facing.

Research Dump, No 8

Included in this edition are several links on 16th century clothing, a couple of treatises from the same period, Romani and Chinese clothings, and numerous other subjects.





Notes and Illustrations on Regency Clothing Styles

(I should note that it naturally only covers women's clothing)
http://www.pemberley.com/janeinfo/ppbrokil.html


Women's Dress and  Dance of the 16th Century Ottoman Empire
http://wiesenfeuer.ansteorra.org/links/artsandsciences/compilations/kajiracamber/Women%20and%20Dancers%20of%20the%2016th%20Century%20Ottoman%20Empire.pdf


Early 16th Century German Peasant Clothing
Some decent information, but I definitely do NOT agree with some of the author's suggestions on recreating it easily.
https://amiesparrow.files.wordpress.com/2014/06/early-16th-century-german-peasant-clothing.pdf 

Elizabethan House - Robert and Laura Mellin: Clothing and Accessories
A basic overview of Elizabethan clothing.
http://traynedbandes.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/2-Elizabethan-House-Clothing-and-Accessories.docx.pdf 


Grisone, Federico:Künstlicher Bericht, ... wie die streitbaren Pferd ... vollkommen zu machen 

A German Horsemanship treatise from the end of the 16th Century.  Specifically regarding hard to break horses.
http://bildsuche.digitale-sammlungen.de/index.html?c=viewer&bandnummer=bsb00084455&pimage=00001&v=100&nav&l=de 

Latest project, Unveiled. The Franken Frock (coat). Part I

Most people already know about this--it's not exactly a secret--but I have not officially announced one of my latest hare-brained schemes.  Since November I have been gathering materials, and am finally beginning to work on assembly.

A single breasted Frock Coat, based theoretically on the 1870's patterns (mainly the lapel shape), in a patchwork of tweeds I am upcycling from blazers found at the thrift store.  I have affectionately dubbed this project as my "Franken-Frock".  I've seen a few examples of patchworked coats, and personally have found them all to be hideous, with large pieces of material used in random places.  In comparison, part of the point of this project is to force myself to higher accuracy in stitching, since if I don't the pattern will get slightly askew (i.e. Let's challenge myself with pattern matching).

Research Dump, No. 7

Norse Stamp Pattern Jewelry
A class on the design of "Viking" armbands, and pendant decorated with stampwork.
http://www.fitp.ca/articles/FITPXXI/viking_silver.pdf

Period Tailoring Techniques--making a doublet interior--part 1
An article more or less discussing the interlinings and canvassing of a doublet.
http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/blog/period-tailoring-techniques-making-a-doublet-interior-part-i.html 
Part II: http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/blog/period-tailoring-techniques-making-a-doublet-interior-part-ii.html
Part III: http://www.reconstructinghistory.com/blog/period-tailoring-techniques-making-a-doublet-interior-part-iii.html 

Rock of the Eye
A discussion on drafting patterns by Rock of the Eye (less poetically known as "eyeballing it").  There is some good ideas and thoughts in here, although it takes them some time to get there.
http://www.cutterandtailor.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=853 

1370s Blue Cottehardie. HSM: April - War and Peace.

The Project:

This project is a men’s cotehardie, from the 1370s.  I wanted a garment which would work equally well for outdoors (“hunting”) and for less formal functions—not court clothing, but certainly not low class, either.  It is somewhat more modest in length than the average for that time—however, as you can see in the German Effigy, not everyone wore garments which showed off the majority of your legs.

Base Sources:
              I based the garment on several illustrations from the period.  A couple illuminations of soldiers (or one soldier), and a German effigy.  I don’t believe there actually are any finds of this kind of garment, beyond the Charles du Bloise pourpoint[i] (which is a silk gold brocade).

BNF Nouvelle acquisition française 15939 Miroir Historial (Vol 1) Folio 122r

Drafting Patterns from Extant Garments

Ever wondered how to take those line drawings of an extant garment—like those Medieval Garments Reconstructed, Marc Carlson’s database, or Patterns of Fashion--, and make it fit you, while remaining as true to the original garment as possible? Or better, photographs of the garment itself and figure what shape the pieces are?  
            This is the method I used for most of my major projects; The Sture Suit, G63, and most notably my Moselund Kirtle, as well as a number of projects which are planned but not constructed.

            A point on terminology for reconstructing garments (this is what I use): A museum replica is a piece made entirely with the correct technology, to be as close to identical to the extant piece when new (as possibly).  A working replica (what this class is geared towards making) is patterned from, and maintains the proportions of the extant as much as possible while having it fit you, as well as construction and definition; however, the fabric might not be spun/woven to order.  "Inspired by" I do not consider to be reconstructing a garment--you may be making a perfectly good, period piece, but the goal isn't to get as close to a specific extant garment as possible.

Research Dump No. 6

Shoe notes
 A collection of notes about a pair of shoes based on the Oseberg.  I believe the information is good, but it is an angelfire site...so have your pop-up blocker ready.
http://www.angelfire.com/mi4/olafvanta/Dirk/shoes/dshoes.htm 

A HOARD OF 16-17TH CENTURY TOYS
An article on a collection of toys found hidden in an English church.
http://irisharchaeology.ie/2013/02/a-hoard-of-16th-and-17th-century-childrens-toys/  

14TH CENTURY WOMAN'S CLOTHING: THE LUTTRELL PSALTER PERIO
A decent article discussing the various pieces and layers of clothing from this period.
http://users.skynet.be/bister/Passion/Fichiers/14thcClothing.pdf